文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Fresh-picked cucumbers from your garden are not only healthier for you, but they taste better too. Growing cucumbers is an easy project whether it's for slicing in your salad or for pickling. There are two types of cucumbers you can grow, bush or vine. The vine type is the cucumber that will grow on the trellis, and they grow straighter and are cleaner than cucumbers that grow on the ground. Growing your cucumbers from seed will take from a month to two months depending on the size cucumber or pickle you want.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for the cucumber seeds. Place the cucumbers to the north end of the garden to avoid shading your other plants. Cultivate the soil to remove all weeds, and amend the soil for the seeds by adding compost to it and mixing it throughout. Mound the soil to two inches high and a foot apart for each plant. Do not plant the seeds until the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees.
Step 2
Set up the trellis to the north of the mounds. Use a side of your fence if your garden is fenced in. Other types of trellises can be used too, such as vegetable cages, A-frames or fashion your own out of bamboo poles and chicken wire. Make sure the poles are pushed well into the ground because the plants will pull on it and become heavy.
Step 3
Plant the seeds in the mounds. You can plant 3 or 4 seeds per mound, and weed out the weaker of the plants when they start to sprout, leaving only one plant per mound.
Step 4
Place the cucumber's tendrils on the trellis when they first start to show. Helping the cucumber onto the trellis is important as it will attach to anything including other plants. Once it is attached to the trellis it will continue to climb without any more help.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist as the cucumbers are growing. Try to water the ground, and keep the foliage as dry as possible to avoid moisture diseases. Fertilize with a liquid vegetable fertilizer attached to your garden hose every two weeks.
Step 6
Harvest the cucumbers when they are the size you desire. Do not let them get too large, or they will be bitter and very seedy. Cut the cucumbers from the vine; do not pull them or you will damage the vine.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for the cucumber seeds. Place the cucumbers to the north end of the garden to avoid shading your other plants. Cultivate the soil to remove all weeds, and amend the soil for the seeds by adding compost to it and mixing it throughout. Mound the soil to two inches high and a foot apart for each plant. Do not plant the seeds until the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees.
Step 2
Set up the trellis to the north of the mounds. Use a side of your fence if your garden is fenced in. Other types of trellises can be used too, such as vegetable cages, A-frames or fashion your own out of bamboo poles and chicken wire. Make sure the poles are pushed well into the ground because the plants will pull on it and become heavy.
Step 3
Plant the seeds in the mounds. You can plant 3 or 4 seeds per mound, and weed out the weaker of the plants when they start to sprout, leaving only one plant per mound.
Step 4
Place the cucumber's tendrils on the trellis when they first start to show. Helping the cucumber onto the trellis is important as it will attach to anything including other plants. Once it is attached to the trellis it will continue to climb without any more help.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist as the cucumbers are growing. Try to water the ground, and keep the foliage as dry as possible to avoid moisture diseases. Fertilize with a liquid vegetable fertilizer attached to your garden hose every two weeks.
Step 6
Harvest the cucumbers when they are the size you desire. Do not let them get too large, or they will be bitter and very seedy. Cut the cucumbers from the vine; do not pull them or you will damage the vine.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Bean plants are one of the popular crops for homeowners to grow. They are healthful, providing essential nutrients. They also are versatile and can be used in a variety of recipes. Most bean plants also have the advantage of being able to be grown by the average backyard or hobby gardener. There are many varieties of beans, but whatever variety you plant, it is important to know how much water is necessary for its proper growth and development.
Bush and Pole Bean Watering
Bush and pole bean varieties, such as string beans or green beans, like warm soil and full sun. In a typical weather climate, water your bush and pole beans at least once a week, but only during dry spells.
If your location has not had much rain, feel the soil near the beans' roots to check whether or not it seems dry. Water the plants at the roots, and keep the plants as dry as possible. There is not a set amount of water that a bush or pole bean plant needs, but keep the soil uniformly moist at all times.
Keeping the soil moist increases the yield for bush and pole beans. Watering and keeping the ground wet is most critical when the beans flower.
Kidney, Navy, Garbanzo and Pinto Bean Watering
These beans are all of the dried beans variety. Like bush and pole beans, there is not a set amount of water for gardeners to give these growing bean plants.
The soil around the plants must be kept evenly moist while they grow and given regular water if necessary to maintain moisture. Once bean pods are fairly mature, you may stop watering to encourage the bean drying process and to prevent rotting.
Bush and Pole Bean Watering
Bush and pole bean varieties, such as string beans or green beans, like warm soil and full sun. In a typical weather climate, water your bush and pole beans at least once a week, but only during dry spells.
If your location has not had much rain, feel the soil near the beans' roots to check whether or not it seems dry. Water the plants at the roots, and keep the plants as dry as possible. There is not a set amount of water that a bush or pole bean plant needs, but keep the soil uniformly moist at all times.
Keeping the soil moist increases the yield for bush and pole beans. Watering and keeping the ground wet is most critical when the beans flower.
Kidney, Navy, Garbanzo and Pinto Bean Watering
These beans are all of the dried beans variety. Like bush and pole beans, there is not a set amount of water for gardeners to give these growing bean plants.
The soil around the plants must be kept evenly moist while they grow and given regular water if necessary to maintain moisture. Once bean pods are fairly mature, you may stop watering to encourage the bean drying process and to prevent rotting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Potatoes are a staple of the American diet and are a common ingredient in many foods. While they are heavily cultivated commercially, potatoes are also fairly easy to grow at home. If you have grown potatoes in the past and are looking to get another crop started this year, you may have considered using seed potatoes. Proper storage and care of your seed potatoes can mean all the difference when it comes to a healthy, bountiful crop.
What Are Seed Potatoes?
You grow seed potatoes specifically for replanting to produce a potato crop. They are not a different kind of potato. Instead, it is their purpose that causes them to have a different classification.
Potatoes are tubers, which means that they grow as the food supply for the leafy green part of their plant. The tuber grows larger underground to store food for the plant. If provided proper nutrients, tubers like potatoes grow sprouts underground, which we call eyes. The eyes of a potato then develop into new plants.
You might think that you can start a potato crop using store-bought potatoes. However, most of the potatoes sold to grocery stores have chemical treatments so that they do not grow eyes while on the shelf. As a result, they are far less likely to be effective as seed potatoes. In addition, the chance of a diseased potato crop is much greater if you use store-bought potatoes as the basis for your planting.
How to Harvest Seed Potatoes
To harvest seed potatoes, dig up any potatoes you wish to store for next year's harvest. Brush the dirt off the potatoes, but do not wash them. You may also purchase certified disease-free potatoes from a garden supply or home improvement store. Many experts recommend starting fresh with certified seed potatoes each year to lessen the risk of an infected and ultimately damaged crop. Plants such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers (all members of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family) are particularly prone to plant-borne illnesses that can destroy entire crops.
If you choose to move forward with homegrown seed potatoes, be sure to practice crop rotation, planting your potatoes in a different place each year to prevent disease. Not only is this important for the yield of your harvest, it is essential for your seed potatoes. This is because diseases carried by these seed potatoes are likely to persist into another growing season.
Another way to maximize the return on your crop is to harvest seed potatoes of varying types, including heirloom varieties. If you do accidentally introduce a disease to your crop, you might have a higher yield if you have established a diverse population.
How to Store Seed Potatoes
Store your seed potatoes in a cool, dry place that hovers around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. While some humidity is essential for your seed potatoes, you should not expose them to too much moisture, or they may begin to rot.
In addition, it is critical that potatoes have time to rest, so you should not move or expose them to light or heat during the storage period. Locations like cool closets or cellars are excellent places for seed potatoes. If you are planning to store your potatoes in a basement location, take care to place them so that mice or other nuisance wildlife cannot get to them.
Keep the potatoes in a cardboard box or brown paper bag during their hibernation period. However, they require ventilation, so do not stack or pile the potatoes too high. Additionally, do not cover or close the container so that air cannot enter.
Three to four weeks before you wish to plant your crop, move your seed potatoes to a well-lit area with high humidity. A sunny window or under a grow light is an excellent choice. The purpose of this exercise is to encourage the sprouting of your potatoes. Covering seed potatoes with moist burlap bags can aid in the sprouting process.
How to Plant Seed Potatoes
If your seed potatoes are small, you do not need to cut them. However, if you have stored large potatoes, you should cut them into pieces with two to three eyes each. Each piece should weigh about two ounces. Following these guidelines will maximize your crop yield. You will need to either plant any cut potatoes immediately or let them dry for up to two days and then plant them.
Plant your seed potatoes in well-drained, rich and fertilized soil that is six inches deep. If you choose to hill your potatoes, mound the dirt covering them and add a layer of mulch on top. Keep hills about one foot apart. Water your seed potatoes regularly, providing each plant two inches of water per week.
What Are Seed Potatoes?
You grow seed potatoes specifically for replanting to produce a potato crop. They are not a different kind of potato. Instead, it is their purpose that causes them to have a different classification.
Potatoes are tubers, which means that they grow as the food supply for the leafy green part of their plant. The tuber grows larger underground to store food for the plant. If provided proper nutrients, tubers like potatoes grow sprouts underground, which we call eyes. The eyes of a potato then develop into new plants.
You might think that you can start a potato crop using store-bought potatoes. However, most of the potatoes sold to grocery stores have chemical treatments so that they do not grow eyes while on the shelf. As a result, they are far less likely to be effective as seed potatoes. In addition, the chance of a diseased potato crop is much greater if you use store-bought potatoes as the basis for your planting.
How to Harvest Seed Potatoes
To harvest seed potatoes, dig up any potatoes you wish to store for next year's harvest. Brush the dirt off the potatoes, but do not wash them. You may also purchase certified disease-free potatoes from a garden supply or home improvement store. Many experts recommend starting fresh with certified seed potatoes each year to lessen the risk of an infected and ultimately damaged crop. Plants such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers (all members of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family) are particularly prone to plant-borne illnesses that can destroy entire crops.
If you choose to move forward with homegrown seed potatoes, be sure to practice crop rotation, planting your potatoes in a different place each year to prevent disease. Not only is this important for the yield of your harvest, it is essential for your seed potatoes. This is because diseases carried by these seed potatoes are likely to persist into another growing season.
Another way to maximize the return on your crop is to harvest seed potatoes of varying types, including heirloom varieties. If you do accidentally introduce a disease to your crop, you might have a higher yield if you have established a diverse population.
How to Store Seed Potatoes
Store your seed potatoes in a cool, dry place that hovers around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. While some humidity is essential for your seed potatoes, you should not expose them to too much moisture, or they may begin to rot.
In addition, it is critical that potatoes have time to rest, so you should not move or expose them to light or heat during the storage period. Locations like cool closets or cellars are excellent places for seed potatoes. If you are planning to store your potatoes in a basement location, take care to place them so that mice or other nuisance wildlife cannot get to them.
Keep the potatoes in a cardboard box or brown paper bag during their hibernation period. However, they require ventilation, so do not stack or pile the potatoes too high. Additionally, do not cover or close the container so that air cannot enter.
Three to four weeks before you wish to plant your crop, move your seed potatoes to a well-lit area with high humidity. A sunny window or under a grow light is an excellent choice. The purpose of this exercise is to encourage the sprouting of your potatoes. Covering seed potatoes with moist burlap bags can aid in the sprouting process.
How to Plant Seed Potatoes
If your seed potatoes are small, you do not need to cut them. However, if you have stored large potatoes, you should cut them into pieces with two to three eyes each. Each piece should weigh about two ounces. Following these guidelines will maximize your crop yield. You will need to either plant any cut potatoes immediately or let them dry for up to two days and then plant them.
Plant your seed potatoes in well-drained, rich and fertilized soil that is six inches deep. If you choose to hill your potatoes, mound the dirt covering them and add a layer of mulch on top. Keep hills about one foot apart. Water your seed potatoes regularly, providing each plant two inches of water per week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Many gardeners enjoy planting a large variety of different vegetables, trying new types each year. There are two basic types of vegetables from which you can choose; vegetables that grow underneath the ground and those that grow above ground. If you dream of sun-ripened food and plants with their bounty displayed in full view, there are a wide variety from which to choose.
Lettuce
Lettuce is one of the earliest vegetables to be picked in the spring, giving home gardeners a welcome taste of fresh green crunchiness early in the season. Lettuce can grow as separate leaves or bunched into heads. The entire lettuce plant above the ground consists of leaves, and everything that grows can be eaten. Many seed companies sell mixed packets of lettuces so that you can try many different varieties for your salads.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are long thin vegetables that grow on vines. The sturdy vines grow up trellises or fences quite easily, making them a common vegetables for the home gardener to produce. 6- to 8-inch cucumbers will be ready to pick in the middle of summer, and will continue to ripen throughout the season as long as you continue to pick them every three days or so.
Pumpkin
Pumpkins are classically thought of as material for Halloween decorations, but they are much more than that. Pumpkins can be turned into pumpkin butter, pumpkin bread, pies, custards and soup. This gourd loves warm weather, so don't plant until all chance of frost has gone past. Pumpkin vines grow very large, so plant them 3 to 5 feet apart. The pumpkins will appear in early summer and grow until the frost has appeared in the fall. Many people keep one plant separate to try to grow a giant pumpkin for Halloween, but the smaller versions are easier to deal with for cooking and eating.
Tomato
More tomato plants are grown by gardeners than any other vegetable, and deservedly so. This versatile veggie is tasty eaten fresh in salads and sandwiches, and preserves easily by canning or freezing for use in sauces, soups and stews later in the year. There are hundreds of tomato varieties, from tiny cherry tomatoes to sandwich-sized beefsteaks. There are heirloom varieties that have been around for generations and hybrids that were developed in the past couple of years for resistance to particular plant diseases or to produce new colors or flavors.
Lettuce
Lettuce is one of the earliest vegetables to be picked in the spring, giving home gardeners a welcome taste of fresh green crunchiness early in the season. Lettuce can grow as separate leaves or bunched into heads. The entire lettuce plant above the ground consists of leaves, and everything that grows can be eaten. Many seed companies sell mixed packets of lettuces so that you can try many different varieties for your salads.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are long thin vegetables that grow on vines. The sturdy vines grow up trellises or fences quite easily, making them a common vegetables for the home gardener to produce. 6- to 8-inch cucumbers will be ready to pick in the middle of summer, and will continue to ripen throughout the season as long as you continue to pick them every three days or so.
Pumpkin
Pumpkins are classically thought of as material for Halloween decorations, but they are much more than that. Pumpkins can be turned into pumpkin butter, pumpkin bread, pies, custards and soup. This gourd loves warm weather, so don't plant until all chance of frost has gone past. Pumpkin vines grow very large, so plant them 3 to 5 feet apart. The pumpkins will appear in early summer and grow until the frost has appeared in the fall. Many people keep one plant separate to try to grow a giant pumpkin for Halloween, but the smaller versions are easier to deal with for cooking and eating.
Tomato
More tomato plants are grown by gardeners than any other vegetable, and deservedly so. This versatile veggie is tasty eaten fresh in salads and sandwiches, and preserves easily by canning or freezing for use in sauces, soups and stews later in the year. There are hundreds of tomato varieties, from tiny cherry tomatoes to sandwich-sized beefsteaks. There are heirloom varieties that have been around for generations and hybrids that were developed in the past couple of years for resistance to particular plant diseases or to produce new colors or flavors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Container gardens offer the chance to grow a vegetable garden without the need for a high-maintenance garden bed. Zucchini is one of many vegetable varieties that thrives in pots. In garden beds, zucchini often is left to sprawl, but in a pot it can be staked to take up less space. Look for hybrid varieties such as Black Magic and Jackpot, that are bred specifically for pot growing.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Peppers are a popular plant for the home vegetable garden. The three most common varieties of peppers are bell peppers, hot peppers and sweet peppers. Although peppers are relatively easy to grow, several factors can result in low fruit production. If you want to get your green pepper plants to produce more, be vigilant with their care.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Pumpkins are a popular vegetable for a reason: they are delicious, fun and easy to grow. It doesn't take all that much to cultivate pumpkins in your yard: soil, space, water and sunlight. But if you want to grow big pumpkins, the kind you might see winning the blue ribbon at a county fair, it takes a little extra effort, and some good old fashioned tricks. Feeding sugar to your pumpkins, for instance, can make them grow much bigger than just sun and water alone will.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
When grown in the ground, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) needs plenty of room for its large root system. When garden space is at a premium, however, you can grow asparagus in a container, as long as you're prepared for a smaller plant and a less bountiful harvest than you'd get with in-ground asparagus. Asparagus also spreads. So growing it in a container can help keep it from getting into parts of the garden where you don't want it to be. Asparagus grows as a perennial plant in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, but some of its varieties are perennial in different USDA zones.
Choosing Varieties
Because container-grown asparagus plants do not produce as prolifically as asparagus grown in the ground, the best cultivars for container-growing are those that produce the highest yields per plant. 'Jersey Knight' is one such cultivar. It produces many large spears, which are the plant's edible, new shoots, and it is perennial in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Container-grown asparagus needs a fast start. So choose asparagus crowns -- 1-year-old, bare-root plants -- rather than trying to grow the plants from seeds.
Selecting a Container
Asparagus plants need a deep container that is wide enough not to crowd them. Each plant's container should be at least 18 inches deep and 1 foot wide, or give each plant that much width in a wider container. A ceramic, plastic or wooden container will work, and a large plastic storage bin is an option. The plants require good drainage, though. So if a container you choose does not have drainage holes in its base, then drill them yourself.
Planting Crowns
In spring, add organic potting soil to your container until the top of the soil is about 6 1/2 inches from the top of the container. Work about 1 ounce of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 3 square feet of soil surface area into the top few inches of the soil.
Set the asparagus crowns about 6 inches apart, and spread their roots on the top of the soil. Cover the crowns with 3 inches of soil, and water the soil thoroughly. Set the container in a spot that gets about eight hours of direct sunshine per day. When the crowns have grown to about 3 inches in height, cover them with 3 more inches of soil.
Fertilizing and Watering the Plants
Monitor the soil's moisture, and provide water whenever the soil dries out to a depth of about 2 inches. During hot, dry periods, the soil may need water daily.
Fertilize every spring with a handful of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer, scattering it around the crowns and lightly scratching it into the surface of the soil. Water thoroughly after applying the fertilizer.
Overwintering with Mulch
After the asparagus plants' foliage dies back in fall, cover the plants with mulch to protect them through winter. The plants' own die-back foliage can function as a convenient mulch.
Harvesting Spears
The plants probably will be ready for harvest in the third year after they were planted. In the third year, harvest the plants' spears one time after they reach 6 to 8 inches in height. In following years, you can harvest spears continuously for six to eight weeks. The spears emerge above ground from the root crowns.
Asparagus plants grown in the ground may continue to produce well for as long as 20 years, but container-grown plants will likely be productive for only three to five years.
Choosing Varieties
Because container-grown asparagus plants do not produce as prolifically as asparagus grown in the ground, the best cultivars for container-growing are those that produce the highest yields per plant. 'Jersey Knight' is one such cultivar. It produces many large spears, which are the plant's edible, new shoots, and it is perennial in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Container-grown asparagus needs a fast start. So choose asparagus crowns -- 1-year-old, bare-root plants -- rather than trying to grow the plants from seeds.
Selecting a Container
Asparagus plants need a deep container that is wide enough not to crowd them. Each plant's container should be at least 18 inches deep and 1 foot wide, or give each plant that much width in a wider container. A ceramic, plastic or wooden container will work, and a large plastic storage bin is an option. The plants require good drainage, though. So if a container you choose does not have drainage holes in its base, then drill them yourself.
Planting Crowns
In spring, add organic potting soil to your container until the top of the soil is about 6 1/2 inches from the top of the container. Work about 1 ounce of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 3 square feet of soil surface area into the top few inches of the soil.
Set the asparagus crowns about 6 inches apart, and spread their roots on the top of the soil. Cover the crowns with 3 inches of soil, and water the soil thoroughly. Set the container in a spot that gets about eight hours of direct sunshine per day. When the crowns have grown to about 3 inches in height, cover them with 3 more inches of soil.
Fertilizing and Watering the Plants
Monitor the soil's moisture, and provide water whenever the soil dries out to a depth of about 2 inches. During hot, dry periods, the soil may need water daily.
Fertilize every spring with a handful of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer, scattering it around the crowns and lightly scratching it into the surface of the soil. Water thoroughly after applying the fertilizer.
Overwintering with Mulch
After the asparagus plants' foliage dies back in fall, cover the plants with mulch to protect them through winter. The plants' own die-back foliage can function as a convenient mulch.
Harvesting Spears
The plants probably will be ready for harvest in the third year after they were planted. In the third year, harvest the plants' spears one time after they reach 6 to 8 inches in height. In following years, you can harvest spears continuously for six to eight weeks. The spears emerge above ground from the root crowns.
Asparagus plants grown in the ground may continue to produce well for as long as 20 years, but container-grown plants will likely be productive for only three to five years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Eggplants (Solanum melongena) are not exactly fuss-free. They require plenty of sun, supplemental feeding and regular watering. Eggplants also get their share of pests. Although eggplants potentially grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, most people treat the heat-loving vegetables as annuals. To keep these high-maintenance Mediterranean favorites happy, grow them near other plants that either have the same needs, or which enhance the growing conditions for eggplants.
Nourishing Neighbors
Eggplants thrive on nitrogen, often requiring extra fertilizer at the height of their growing season. Planting eggplants in the same beds as annual legumes benefits the eggplants because peas (Pisum sativum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) pull nitrogen from the atmosphere, then fix it into the surrounding soil. If you grow pole peas or pole beans, set the eggplants in front of the trellised legumes so the eggplants won't be be shaded. If you grow bush peas and beans, alternate rows of the eggplants with beans or peas, or alternate the plants within rows.
Pest Patrol
Bush green beans also repel one of the eggplant's pests, the Colorado potato beetle. The perennial herb, French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus "Sativa"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, helps protect eggplants from a broad range of pests. To deter garden moths from damaging eggplants, grow thyme (Thymus vulgaris), a herb that's perennial in USDA zones 5 through 9. Mexican marigold (Tagetes minuta), an annual flower, repels beetles from the eggplant patch. Marigolds are toxic to beans, so choose only beans or marigolds as an eggplant companion -- not both.
Family Affair
A member of the nightshade family, the eggplant grows well with hot and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum), which are also nightshade plants. Peppers and eggplants have the same growing needs -- full sun, regular watering and rich soil -- while also contending with the same pests and diseases. Grow them in alternate rows, or stagger them within rows. Some people also interplant eggplants with tomatoes, which are nightshade family members with similar growing needs. If you do so,you'll need to take tomatoes' height into account and make sure the tomato plants don't shade the eggplants.
Good Roommates
In some cases, the best garden bed companions are the ones whose spacing and sun needs allow them to be tucked between bushy eggplants. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and eggplant are often listed as having a positive effect on on another. Whether there is a scientific reason for this is unclear, but certainly spinach, a cool-weather crop, appreciates the shade cast by eggplant during the dog days of summer. Earlier in the season, younger eggplants won't be tall enough to block sun when the spinach needs it most.
Nourishing Neighbors
Eggplants thrive on nitrogen, often requiring extra fertilizer at the height of their growing season. Planting eggplants in the same beds as annual legumes benefits the eggplants because peas (Pisum sativum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) pull nitrogen from the atmosphere, then fix it into the surrounding soil. If you grow pole peas or pole beans, set the eggplants in front of the trellised legumes so the eggplants won't be be shaded. If you grow bush peas and beans, alternate rows of the eggplants with beans or peas, or alternate the plants within rows.
Pest Patrol
Bush green beans also repel one of the eggplant's pests, the Colorado potato beetle. The perennial herb, French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus "Sativa"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, helps protect eggplants from a broad range of pests. To deter garden moths from damaging eggplants, grow thyme (Thymus vulgaris), a herb that's perennial in USDA zones 5 through 9. Mexican marigold (Tagetes minuta), an annual flower, repels beetles from the eggplant patch. Marigolds are toxic to beans, so choose only beans or marigolds as an eggplant companion -- not both.
Family Affair
A member of the nightshade family, the eggplant grows well with hot and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum), which are also nightshade plants. Peppers and eggplants have the same growing needs -- full sun, regular watering and rich soil -- while also contending with the same pests and diseases. Grow them in alternate rows, or stagger them within rows. Some people also interplant eggplants with tomatoes, which are nightshade family members with similar growing needs. If you do so,you'll need to take tomatoes' height into account and make sure the tomato plants don't shade the eggplants.
Good Roommates
In some cases, the best garden bed companions are the ones whose spacing and sun needs allow them to be tucked between bushy eggplants. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and eggplant are often listed as having a positive effect on on another. Whether there is a scientific reason for this is unclear, but certainly spinach, a cool-weather crop, appreciates the shade cast by eggplant during the dog days of summer. Earlier in the season, younger eggplants won't be tall enough to block sun when the spinach needs it most.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Potatoes are low-maintenance vegetables that you can grow in your home garden and that produce an abundant harvest. Grow potatoes from seed potatoes, which are small potatoes or pieces of larger ones. Pre-sprouting them before planting, also called chitting, ensures the seed potatoes are ready and able to produce plants. Plant these sprouted potatoes properly; otherwise, they rot in the ground instead of becoming healthy and productive plants.
Step 1
Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed.
Step 2
Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole.
Step 3
Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom.
Step 4
Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods.
Step 5
Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.
Step 1
Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed.
Step 2
Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole.
Step 3
Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom.
Step 4
Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods.
Step 5
Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Peppers are a popular plant for the home vegetable garden. The three most common varieties of peppers are bell peppers, hot peppers and sweet peppers. Although peppers are relatively easy to grow, several factors can result in low fruit production. If you want to get your green pepper plants to produce more, be vigilant with their care.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
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成长记
Plantlin
2018年07月06日
My cat forced me te repot my micans which was completed and and waiting to grow strong. I did want to put it in a gray terracotta put in spring so that has just gotten moved forward a little:) I hope they will survive!
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Vegetables that need a strong support system, such as squash, gourds, melons, cucumbers and tomatoes are your best choices to grow on a chain link fence. With its sturdy metal posts and strong wires, chain-link provides enough strength to withstand heavy loads. Chain-link also provides beans and tomatoes ample space for their long vines and branches to grow both vertically and horizontally.
Green beans produce abundant crops.
All beans, whether pole or bush, send out curling shoots that need the close-knit weaving of a chain-link fence. Even though you can grow bush beans without support, they do best and are more easily harvested when trained to grow vertically. Pole beans produce longer than bush beans and will cover a larger area of fencing, according to Dr. Leonard P. Perry, Professor at the University of Vermont Extension. All beans produce flowers before they produce the bean pods, but scarlet runner beans have attractive, red flowers that many vegetable gardeners love. Beans need a fence in full sun with soil that has good drainage.
Gourds and Squashes
Vegetable gardeners have a wide variety of gourds and squashes to choose from.
The strength of a chain-link fence is especially beneficial when growing gourds and winter squash; the vines themselves require the nooks and crannies of the fence to pull themselves up. The wires provide places to tie cloth or netting support to hold up heavy individual squashes and gourds to prevent their stems from breaking. Train gourd and squash vines to grow both vertically and horizontally on the fence, as the vines can reach up to 25 feet for gourds and up to 10 feet for squash.
Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes on chain-link fencing prevents soil diseases from damaging plants.
Most vegetables gardeners find that tomatoes quickly outgrow the standard tomato cages bought in the local garden store and using just one or two stakes doesn’t provide enough support. Chain-link fencing is a perfect alternative. Barbara Damrosch, author of "The Garden Primer," recommends a 5-foot high support, so add additional height to your fence if necessary by tying metal stakes or wooden dowels to the existing poles and stringing twine between the stakes. Use strips of cloth or soft twine to support the vines so that stems are not damaged. A chain-link fence allows you to train the tomato vines to grow both vertically and horizontally.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Green beans are a popular vegetable for the home garden. They grow quickly and require only sun and water. Pole varieties grow between 5 and 10 feet high, according to Cornell University, and require staking. Bush beans are compact and need no support.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
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