文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Coneflowers, or Echinacea purpurea, are perennial flowering plants named for their mounded, cone-shaped flowers. Native to the United States, coneflower varieties typically grow throughout the central and eastern regions of the U.S. Favored for their garden versatility, coneflower cultivars offer blooms in shades of white, pink, purple or yellow. Established coneflowers spread through seeds and clumping.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina) is part of a diverse group of ferns that populates natural woodland habitats around the globe. It's a sturdy addition to the woodland garden, too, thanks to the adaptations that allow it to grow well where other ferns might struggle.
Growth Habit
Lady fern grows in circular clumps of fronds, each of which is up to 3 feet long and as much as 1 foot wide at its widest part. The plant spreads by sending out slow-growing underground rhizomes from which new plants emerge; over time, colonies of the plants form dense clumps up to 7 feet in diameter. The ability to spread in this way, which not all ferns possess, is an adaptation that allows the lady fern to reproduce asexually without fertilization from another plant.
The clumps may be divided every few years in spring. Lady fern's growth habit is compact and manageable; it's not hard to keep it contained in a garden. If allowed to spread, however, it can function as a dense ground cover.
Frond Form
Lady fern's characteristic lacy appearance is the result of the complex structure of its fronds. Each frond consists of a central stem, or rachis, from which branch 20 or more lateral leaflets; the leaflets taper in length from wide at the bottom of the frond to narrow at the tip, giving the frond an overall wedge-shaped form. The leaflets are divided into 15 or more subleaflets, each of which is tapered in shape and serrated along its edges. The fern's numerous leaflets may help it tolerate fluctuations in temperature.
Natural Habitat
Lady fern is a native of northern regions of North America, Europe and Asia. In the United States, it is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. It is winter-hardy in those zones, but it drops its leaves and goes dormant after the first frost in fall, an adaptation that helps the plant survive cold temperatures. In the wild, it grows in forests, ravines, meadows and swamps where soils are consistently moist and rich in organic matter.
In the garden, lady fern thrives in loamy soil that is well-drained but that does not dry out quickly. It also does well in soil that is slightly acidic, with a pH level below 6.8.
Sun and Drought Tolerance
Most ferns perform best in shady locations with consistently humid conditions, and lady fern is no exception; it fares best when protected from sun exposure and drought. It is, however, better adapted to be tolerant of sunny, dry conditions than many other fern species, and it can handle being placed in an area that gets full sun as long the soil around its roots remains moist.
Its long fronds may break if subjected to strong winds, though. So it is best grown in shelter provided by a nearby wall, hedge or other windbreak.
Growth Habit
Lady fern grows in circular clumps of fronds, each of which is up to 3 feet long and as much as 1 foot wide at its widest part. The plant spreads by sending out slow-growing underground rhizomes from which new plants emerge; over time, colonies of the plants form dense clumps up to 7 feet in diameter. The ability to spread in this way, which not all ferns possess, is an adaptation that allows the lady fern to reproduce asexually without fertilization from another plant.
The clumps may be divided every few years in spring. Lady fern's growth habit is compact and manageable; it's not hard to keep it contained in a garden. If allowed to spread, however, it can function as a dense ground cover.
Frond Form
Lady fern's characteristic lacy appearance is the result of the complex structure of its fronds. Each frond consists of a central stem, or rachis, from which branch 20 or more lateral leaflets; the leaflets taper in length from wide at the bottom of the frond to narrow at the tip, giving the frond an overall wedge-shaped form. The leaflets are divided into 15 or more subleaflets, each of which is tapered in shape and serrated along its edges. The fern's numerous leaflets may help it tolerate fluctuations in temperature.
Natural Habitat
Lady fern is a native of northern regions of North America, Europe and Asia. In the United States, it is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. It is winter-hardy in those zones, but it drops its leaves and goes dormant after the first frost in fall, an adaptation that helps the plant survive cold temperatures. In the wild, it grows in forests, ravines, meadows and swamps where soils are consistently moist and rich in organic matter.
In the garden, lady fern thrives in loamy soil that is well-drained but that does not dry out quickly. It also does well in soil that is slightly acidic, with a pH level below 6.8.
Sun and Drought Tolerance
Most ferns perform best in shady locations with consistently humid conditions, and lady fern is no exception; it fares best when protected from sun exposure and drought. It is, however, better adapted to be tolerant of sunny, dry conditions than many other fern species, and it can handle being placed in an area that gets full sun as long the soil around its roots remains moist.
Its long fronds may break if subjected to strong winds, though. So it is best grown in shelter provided by a nearby wall, hedge or other windbreak.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
Grow a container of astilbe (Astilbe spp.), also called false spirea, for a splash of color in a shade garden or on a shady or partly sunny porch or patio. These plants grow anywhere from 6 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, so you can find the right fit whether you want a compact variety for a small pot or a sprawling cultivar in a large planter. Astilbe grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, with some variation depending species or cultivar.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
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成长记
2B_BotanicalFie
2018年08月04日
All together in a pot Fingere crossed they will continue to grow and grow...
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
Long-lived, undemanding in care, and suitable for spreading groundcovers in woodlands and naturalistic gardens, wild geraniums are also known as cranesbills (Geranium spp.). Hundreds of species grow naturally across temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere. Deep, slender taproots or rhizome stem-roots create clumping plants with lobed leaves that are reminiscent of both maples and ferns. Wild geranium's most ornamental feature is the five-petaled flowers in spring or early summer that are white, blue, violet, lavender or any shade of pink. Do not confuse them with florist geraniums (Pelargonium spp.).
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Post-Flowering Maintenance
Once wild geraniums finishing their first blooming display in late spring or early summer, cut back the entire plants to 3 or 4 inches tall to expose the tiny crown of leaves nestled in the lower leaf stems. Do not cut back the flower stems or entire plants if you want seeds to form and scatter in a newly planted area. The seeds will scatter naturally and lead to more plants next spring. In established gardens, trimming away the old flower stems limits the volunteer, weedy seedlings that may pop up all over the place.
Trimming Tip
Clipping back of old flower stems does improve the look of wild geraniums the rest of summer and into fall before frost. Use care when trimming the stems, as you can inadvertently cut off the frilly foliage stems if you do not grasp each flower stem before cutting. In expansive sweeps of wild geraniums in a woodland setting, trimming isn't practical, unless a power weed trimmer is used. Only focus hand-trimming efforts on plants in the more formal perennial border.
Rejuvenation
In regions with long, hot summers, some gardeners will cut back old, tattered and dead leaves in early to midsummer to rejuvenate. Wild geraniums tend to cease flowering in the hottest part of summer anyways, so cutting back old leaves to the base of plants -- just above the small lower rosette of young leaves -- allows the plants to produce lush, green plants with more blossoms in late summer and early fall. In milder winter regions, the foliage of some evergreen species will then often bronze or attain purplish hues and remain attractive if not matted down and suffocated by snow.
Trimming Insight
If your patch of wild geraniums grows in an un-irrigated section of the landscape, or the soil isn't particularly moist and rich in organic matter on its own, cutting back the plants after the first flowering may not prove best. Only cut back plants if the soil will be evenly moist during the hottest part of summer. Postpone or cancel the plant trimming during years with drought, as the loss of tissues and dry soil can weaken or kill the perennial's roots. In dry years, letting flowers go to seed may ensure wild geraniums grow again next year once the drought ends.
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Post-Flowering Maintenance
Once wild geraniums finishing their first blooming display in late spring or early summer, cut back the entire plants to 3 or 4 inches tall to expose the tiny crown of leaves nestled in the lower leaf stems. Do not cut back the flower stems or entire plants if you want seeds to form and scatter in a newly planted area. The seeds will scatter naturally and lead to more plants next spring. In established gardens, trimming away the old flower stems limits the volunteer, weedy seedlings that may pop up all over the place.
Trimming Tip
Clipping back of old flower stems does improve the look of wild geraniums the rest of summer and into fall before frost. Use care when trimming the stems, as you can inadvertently cut off the frilly foliage stems if you do not grasp each flower stem before cutting. In expansive sweeps of wild geraniums in a woodland setting, trimming isn't practical, unless a power weed trimmer is used. Only focus hand-trimming efforts on plants in the more formal perennial border.
Rejuvenation
In regions with long, hot summers, some gardeners will cut back old, tattered and dead leaves in early to midsummer to rejuvenate. Wild geraniums tend to cease flowering in the hottest part of summer anyways, so cutting back old leaves to the base of plants -- just above the small lower rosette of young leaves -- allows the plants to produce lush, green plants with more blossoms in late summer and early fall. In milder winter regions, the foliage of some evergreen species will then often bronze or attain purplish hues and remain attractive if not matted down and suffocated by snow.
Trimming Insight
If your patch of wild geraniums grows in an un-irrigated section of the landscape, or the soil isn't particularly moist and rich in organic matter on its own, cutting back the plants after the first flowering may not prove best. Only cut back plants if the soil will be evenly moist during the hottest part of summer. Postpone or cancel the plant trimming during years with drought, as the loss of tissues and dry soil can weaken or kill the perennial's roots. In dry years, letting flowers go to seed may ensure wild geraniums grow again next year once the drought ends.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Banana peppers (Capsicum annuum) come in two main varieties, the hot banana pepper and the mild sweet banana pepper. Both of these annual pepper varieties grow during the hot, frost-free days of summer in a sunny garden bed. Allowing them to fully ripen on the plant to the desired stage gives you some control over both the flavor and the color of the mature peppers.
Days to Harvest
Banana peppers take about 70 to 75 days to reach their mature size from the time they germinate. Cultural conditions can affect the length of the growing season. Cool weather, less-than-optimum soil and drought stress can all slow growth so it takes longer for the peppers to mature. Use the average days to maturity as a guideline for when to begin checking your peppers for ripeness, because some peppers may also mature more quickly while others on the same plant may need more time.
Hot Banana Types
Hot banana peppers reach about 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide at maturity. Harvest at any time after the peppers turn yellow and they snap easily from the stem. The flavor is milder at the yellow stage. The peppers develop more heat as they mature to red. If you dry peppers after harvest, pick them once they turn bright red. Yellow peppers are more suitable for fresh use or pickling.
Sweet Banana Types
Sweet banana peppers can mature at a smaller size than the hot varieties, usually only growing 4 to 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Like hot banana peppers, you can harvest sweet bananas at any time after they reach their full size and become completely yellow, but waiting until they turn completely red results in a sweeter pepper. Sweet banana peppers don't snap as easily from the stem at maturity as the hot varieties.
Harvest Method
Harvest peppers after the morning dew has dried on the plants, because handling wet plants can spread disease pathogens. Pick hot banana peppers by grasping the pepper at the base of the stem where it attaches to the fruit and snapping the stem. Support the main plant with your other hand so you don't damage it. For sweet banana peppers, wipe a pair of shears with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them. Cut through the stem, leaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the fruit. Check the plants daily after they begin to ripen, because the peppers will develop at different rates and the plants will continue to flower and set new fruits.
Days to Harvest
Banana peppers take about 70 to 75 days to reach their mature size from the time they germinate. Cultural conditions can affect the length of the growing season. Cool weather, less-than-optimum soil and drought stress can all slow growth so it takes longer for the peppers to mature. Use the average days to maturity as a guideline for when to begin checking your peppers for ripeness, because some peppers may also mature more quickly while others on the same plant may need more time.
Hot Banana Types
Hot banana peppers reach about 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide at maturity. Harvest at any time after the peppers turn yellow and they snap easily from the stem. The flavor is milder at the yellow stage. The peppers develop more heat as they mature to red. If you dry peppers after harvest, pick them once they turn bright red. Yellow peppers are more suitable for fresh use or pickling.
Sweet Banana Types
Sweet banana peppers can mature at a smaller size than the hot varieties, usually only growing 4 to 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Like hot banana peppers, you can harvest sweet bananas at any time after they reach their full size and become completely yellow, but waiting until they turn completely red results in a sweeter pepper. Sweet banana peppers don't snap as easily from the stem at maturity as the hot varieties.
Harvest Method
Harvest peppers after the morning dew has dried on the plants, because handling wet plants can spread disease pathogens. Pick hot banana peppers by grasping the pepper at the base of the stem where it attaches to the fruit and snapping the stem. Support the main plant with your other hand so you don't damage it. For sweet banana peppers, wipe a pair of shears with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them. Cut through the stem, leaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the fruit. Check the plants daily after they begin to ripen, because the peppers will develop at different rates and the plants will continue to flower and set new fruits.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Historically, potatoes have only been grown on farms and in vegetable gardens with lots of space. However, even those people in the smallest of urban lots can grow healthy and tasty potatoes with the garbage bag method.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) spears are the new shoots of asparagus plants that grow in spring. Asparagus grows from seed, and plants live 20 to 30 years in good growing conditions. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, asparagus is hardy, and plants grow 3 to 5 feet tall. Young asparagus shoots can sometimes cause skin irritation, and the red berries produced by female asparagus plants are poisonous.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Pumpkins take up a large space in the home garden. To grow them successfully, you need to know how to prepare the soil, when to start the seeds, how far apart to space them and when to harvest the pumpkins.
Step 1
Check the back of the seed packet for the number of days until maturity. If you are growing pumpkins for Halloween, add a week or two and then count backwards to arrive at the best planting date. It will most likely be in late spring or early summer. Pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate frost, but the pumpkins will rot before Halloween if you plant them too soon in a warm climate.
Step 2
Prepare the soil for the pumpkin bed in an area that receives sun. Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, dig a hole 2 feet across and 1 foot deep. Fill it with a mix of compost and soil to which you've added a handful of slow-release fertilizer. Form a mound over the hole about 4 inches high in the center.
Step 3
Make additional mounds. Space them 10 feet apart. Pumpkins like to sprawl and require plenty of room.
Step 4
Sow six seeds in a circle in each mound. Push them about one inch deep into the soil and spaced four to six inches apart. After the seeds sprout, remove all but the strongest two seedlings. If you don't, you'll have all foliage and no pumpkins.
Step 5
Weed the bed regularly. Pumpkins can tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather, but if you have extended periods of heat, water them. As the pumpkins grow, slip a shingle or tile under each one to lift it slightly from the soil. This foils some insects and improves the appearance of the pumpkin on that side.
Step 6
Harvest all the pumpkins when they turn orange and before a heavy frost hits. To harvest pumpkins, cut the stem about three inches from the pumpkin. Pumpkins broken from their stems do not keep well.
Step 1
Check the back of the seed packet for the number of days until maturity. If you are growing pumpkins for Halloween, add a week or two and then count backwards to arrive at the best planting date. It will most likely be in late spring or early summer. Pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate frost, but the pumpkins will rot before Halloween if you plant them too soon in a warm climate.
Step 2
Prepare the soil for the pumpkin bed in an area that receives sun. Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, dig a hole 2 feet across and 1 foot deep. Fill it with a mix of compost and soil to which you've added a handful of slow-release fertilizer. Form a mound over the hole about 4 inches high in the center.
Step 3
Make additional mounds. Space them 10 feet apart. Pumpkins like to sprawl and require plenty of room.
Step 4
Sow six seeds in a circle in each mound. Push them about one inch deep into the soil and spaced four to six inches apart. After the seeds sprout, remove all but the strongest two seedlings. If you don't, you'll have all foliage and no pumpkins.
Step 5
Weed the bed regularly. Pumpkins can tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather, but if you have extended periods of heat, water them. As the pumpkins grow, slip a shingle or tile under each one to lift it slightly from the soil. This foils some insects and improves the appearance of the pumpkin on that side.
Step 6
Harvest all the pumpkins when they turn orange and before a heavy frost hits. To harvest pumpkins, cut the stem about three inches from the pumpkin. Pumpkins broken from their stems do not keep well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Nothing spices up cooking like fresh jalapeno peppers. Buying them at the store can be costly and inconvenient. Since jalapeno pepper plants are fairly easy to grow, why not add a few plants to your kitchen and enjoy fresh peppers year round?
Step 1
Buy healthy looking jalapeno plants at your home and garden store. Look for leaves that are a rich green in color, and that when pinched gently tend to spring back to life. Avoid plants that seem overly dry or that smell moldy. Be prepared to re-pot your plant once you bring it home.
Step 2
Line the bottom of the plant pot with small rocks or stones. This provides ample drainage for your jalapeno plant. Too much moisture will cause your plant to rot and won't yield any peppers.
Use good soil in your jalapeno plant. Rich soils are made specifically for plant and flower growth. Nutrients in rich soil fall into two categories; non-mineral nutrients and mineral nutrients. Non-mineral nutrient include hydrogen, carbon and oxygen. Mineral nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, chloride, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Re-pot your jalapeno plant using a dark, nutrient-rich soil.
Step 4
Place your jalapeno plant in a window that receives at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight each day. Water your plant two to three times per week.
Step 5
Transfer your jalapeno plant into a larger pot when it reaches about one foot in height. Full grown plants may grow up to two feet high, so plan accordingly for that kind of growth.
Step 6
Pluck off any dried or dead leaves as needed. Allow the peppers to ripen on the plant for optimal taste.
Step 1
Buy healthy looking jalapeno plants at your home and garden store. Look for leaves that are a rich green in color, and that when pinched gently tend to spring back to life. Avoid plants that seem overly dry or that smell moldy. Be prepared to re-pot your plant once you bring it home.
Step 2
Line the bottom of the plant pot with small rocks or stones. This provides ample drainage for your jalapeno plant. Too much moisture will cause your plant to rot and won't yield any peppers.
Use good soil in your jalapeno plant. Rich soils are made specifically for plant and flower growth. Nutrients in rich soil fall into two categories; non-mineral nutrients and mineral nutrients. Non-mineral nutrient include hydrogen, carbon and oxygen. Mineral nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, chloride, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Re-pot your jalapeno plant using a dark, nutrient-rich soil.
Step 4
Place your jalapeno plant in a window that receives at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight each day. Water your plant two to three times per week.
Step 5
Transfer your jalapeno plant into a larger pot when it reaches about one foot in height. Full grown plants may grow up to two feet high, so plan accordingly for that kind of growth.
Step 6
Pluck off any dried or dead leaves as needed. Allow the peppers to ripen on the plant for optimal taste.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.
How do they grow such giant pumpkins?
Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil:
Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.
In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds:
Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.
Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant:
Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.
Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants:
You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.
Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate:
Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune:
Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.
Step 7
Select a favorite:
The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.
Step 8
Fertilize carefully:
In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines:
As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.
Step 10
Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
How do they grow such giant pumpkins?
Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil:
Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.
In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds:
Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.
Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant:
Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.
Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants:
You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.
Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate:
Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune:
Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.
Step 7
Select a favorite:
The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.
Step 8
Fertilize carefully:
In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines:
As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.
Step 10
Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Vining cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are annual plants, and they grow well vertically on a trellis, poles and other upright supports. Growing cucumbers vertically saves space, reduces leaf diseases and pest attack, and provides the heavier harvests than if the plants are grown along the ground. Another benefit of growing cucumbers vertically is that Asian and oriental varieties produce long, straight fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Pepper plants (Capsicum spp.) are vibrant and beautiful, with their lush foliage and shiny fruit. To grow peppers in your garden, you'll need to know a whole lot more than the fact that Peter Piper picked a peck of them. You'll find a whole host of different sorts of pepper plants available, including exotic spicy peppers as well as the sweet peppers so popular in this country. Fortunately, although the days to maturity differ among pepper species, the basic info on how to grow peppers remains the same.
So Many Peppers, So Little Time
Peppers are tender, warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes. But they don't grow as big and spread as wide as tomato plants do. They also need warmer temperatures and longer time in the garden. The colorful sweet bell pepper varieties (Capsicum annuum) are the most popular in the United States and have been for years. But the vast range of other garden peppers available are gaining traction as essential parts of different ethnic eating experiences. These include chili peppers, cayenne peppers and pimiento peppers. You'll only get the full flavor in any type of peppers if you harvest them at their peak.
Planting Peppers
You get more bang for the buck if you grow peppers from seeds. Start them indoors in late winter, then move them to garden beds after spring works its magic on the temperature of the outdoor air and soil. Transplant the young pepper plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. How many to plant? A dozen plants may provide enough peppers for the average family, but with the incredible variety available, you may want to plant more.
Don't put them outside too early when they could be killed by a frost. They do best when night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. You can help your young peppers keep their roots warm by transplanting them into raised beds, mulching them well and using floating row covers.
Pepper Care
If you beef up the garden soil before you transplant the peppers, you'll likely have a healthier crop. Be sure the soil is well-drained, and work in organic compost for more fertile soil. Fertilize at the time of transplant, then again after the first peppers are set. Irrigation? It's essential to keep the soil uniformly moist, right up through harvest. Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
When to Pick a Peck
Keep your eyes on the calendar. Time from planting is an important indicator of when your peppers can be harvested. Make a note of when the plants were started. Peppers are generally ripe between 70 to 84 days later, depending in part on the type of peppers.
In most cases, bell peppers approach maturity and are ready to be harvested approximately 70 to 75 days after planting. Bell Boy and Purple Belle are ready in 70 days; Lady Bell in 72 days; Chocolate Bell in 75 days. Note that each of these pepper types changes color when they are ripe, passing from green to red (Bell Boy and Lady Bell), purple to black to red (Purple Bell) and green to brown (Chocolate Bell.) Pick the green-to-red bell peppers when they reach the color you prefer. They get sweeter as they mature, with red being the sweetest stage.
Other sweet types of peppers that you use in salads or for frying, like Gypsy or Sweet Banana, take between 65 and 70 days to mature. These types start yellow, pass to orange, then mature to red.
Hot peppers can take the longest period to ripen. While cayenne and jalapeño peppers are ripe in 70 days, pimientos take 73. And popular chili peppers take 84 days.
The actual harvest itself helps you figure out whether the peppers are ripe. Mature peppers pull off the pepper plants easily. Grasp the pepper, twist and pull to snap it off. If you are sure they're mature, you can use pruners if it is easier.
So Many Peppers, So Little Time
Peppers are tender, warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes. But they don't grow as big and spread as wide as tomato plants do. They also need warmer temperatures and longer time in the garden. The colorful sweet bell pepper varieties (Capsicum annuum) are the most popular in the United States and have been for years. But the vast range of other garden peppers available are gaining traction as essential parts of different ethnic eating experiences. These include chili peppers, cayenne peppers and pimiento peppers. You'll only get the full flavor in any type of peppers if you harvest them at their peak.
Planting Peppers
You get more bang for the buck if you grow peppers from seeds. Start them indoors in late winter, then move them to garden beds after spring works its magic on the temperature of the outdoor air and soil. Transplant the young pepper plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. How many to plant? A dozen plants may provide enough peppers for the average family, but with the incredible variety available, you may want to plant more.
Don't put them outside too early when they could be killed by a frost. They do best when night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. You can help your young peppers keep their roots warm by transplanting them into raised beds, mulching them well and using floating row covers.
Pepper Care
If you beef up the garden soil before you transplant the peppers, you'll likely have a healthier crop. Be sure the soil is well-drained, and work in organic compost for more fertile soil. Fertilize at the time of transplant, then again after the first peppers are set. Irrigation? It's essential to keep the soil uniformly moist, right up through harvest. Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
When to Pick a Peck
Keep your eyes on the calendar. Time from planting is an important indicator of when your peppers can be harvested. Make a note of when the plants were started. Peppers are generally ripe between 70 to 84 days later, depending in part on the type of peppers.
In most cases, bell peppers approach maturity and are ready to be harvested approximately 70 to 75 days after planting. Bell Boy and Purple Belle are ready in 70 days; Lady Bell in 72 days; Chocolate Bell in 75 days. Note that each of these pepper types changes color when they are ripe, passing from green to red (Bell Boy and Lady Bell), purple to black to red (Purple Bell) and green to brown (Chocolate Bell.) Pick the green-to-red bell peppers when they reach the color you prefer. They get sweeter as they mature, with red being the sweetest stage.
Other sweet types of peppers that you use in salads or for frying, like Gypsy or Sweet Banana, take between 65 and 70 days to mature. These types start yellow, pass to orange, then mature to red.
Hot peppers can take the longest period to ripen. While cayenne and jalapeño peppers are ripe in 70 days, pimientos take 73. And popular chili peppers take 84 days.
The actual harvest itself helps you figure out whether the peppers are ripe. Mature peppers pull off the pepper plants easily. Grasp the pepper, twist and pull to snap it off. If you are sure they're mature, you can use pruners if it is easier.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
Vegetables grow at different rates depending on the type they are. Some will be ready to harvest within a month, while others will take more than a year to grow. The time spent growing your own vegetables is well worth it. Fresh, home-grown vegetables taste best and often are more nutritious than vegetables that have been shipped across the country and stored on a grocer's shelf.
Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.
Radishes
by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.
Beans
by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.
Corn
by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.
Potatoes
by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.
Cabbage
by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.
Asparagus
by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
Whether you have a large garden, a small patch of ground in your back yard, or just a container on your patio, it's possible to grow your own vegetables. If you live in an area with a very short growing season, you may not be able to grow certain types of vegetables unless you have a greenhouse.
Radishes
by Svadilfari, Radishes grow quickly.
Radishes are grown from seed and are one of the easiest and fastest vegetables to grow. You can start them indoors in February or March and then put them in the garden when all danger of frost has passed. They will be ready to pick in about 30 days. You can even get a second harvest if you start your second set of seeds indoors in March and place them in the garden after you harvest the first bunch.
Beans
by wanko, Green Beans ready for harvest
There are many types of beans, but they basically all take approximately the same time to grow. Pole bean seeds can be planted directly in the garden around a pole or trellis in May in the northern gardening zones, and they will be ready to harvest in about 60 to 70 days. Bush beans should be planted in April or May and take the same 60 to 70 days. In warmer climates where you can plant a month earlier, offset a few rows by a few days so all your beans don't come in at once. Once beans are harvested, the soil can be used for a fall crop. Beans are not cold-hardy and will not tolerate a frost. Other crops that grow in this time frame are onions and peas.
Corn
by La Grande Farmers' Market, Fresh corn on the cob
Corn needs a lot of space and may not be suitable for all gardens. It should be planted in blocks of rows to ensure good pollination. There are many varieties of corn and it will take between two to a little over three months to harvest, depending on the variety. Lettuce, spinach and some varieties of potatoes also take about two to three months to grow to maturity.
Potatoes
by Dr. Hemmert, Freshly harvested potatoes
Potatoes are very easy vegetables to grow and you can grow them from the potatoes in your kitchen. There are many varieties, and each will be ready to harvest at different times. The main tip to follow when growing potatoes is not to allow the tuber to receive direct sunlight. The sun will cause it to turn green and you will have to throw it out because it will be poisonous. Early varieties will take as little as 70 days, while the mid and late varieties can take from 90 to 150 days before they are ready to dig. Check to see if they are ready by digging down to see how large the potato is without disturbing the roots. If it feels large enough, dig out only the number of potatoes that you need and allow the rest to grow until the entire plant dies down. Then harvest them all. Squash and tomatoes take about the same time to grow.
Cabbage
by net_efekt, Coleslaw anyone?
Cabbage, broccoli, peppers and eggplant take four to five months to grow to maturity. Cabbage and peppers, however, should be planted indoors a month or two before transplanting to the garden. Begin the seeds in February or March and place in the garden in May. Other vegetables that grow in this time frame are pumpkins and watermelons.
Asparagus
by rust.bucket, Asparagas is easy to grow.
Plant asparagus as soon as you can work the soil. You can grow asparagus by planting seed or roots, but roots will grow faster. You should not harvest the asparagus until the second or even third spring after planting to allow the plant to get well established. Mulching in the late fall will protect the plant roots from frost heave and they will return without being replanted. Use compost when planting. As the plant grows, it will spread with new plants, so give it lots of room.
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