文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Kangaroo paw plants (Anigozanthos spp.) have long green leaves and finely textured flowering stems in tones of green, red or yellow. These perennial Australian natives grow in warm soil with a sandy composition that drains quickly. Although these plants are drought tolerant, summer watering can extend the flowering period. Tall kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos flavidus) is the one you're most likely to find and it grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Bluebells (Campanula rotundifolia) grow naturally in wooded areas. In the United States they have become a favorite among wildflower lovers. The bluebell is easy to care for and spreads rapidly under the right conditions. This flower is a favorite of hummingbirds because of the shape of its blooms. The flowers are long and narrow, creating the perfect cup for a hummingbird to take nectar from.
Bell-Shaped Flowers
Native to England and Scotland, bluebell is a perennial plant named for the shape of the flower which looks like a tiny bell. These flowers grow in clusters and are usually, but not always, blue as the name implies. Bluebells can be a creamy, off-white color. The cream-colored bluebell is rarely found in nature. This plant has long stems and narrow leaves. It grows to be 12 to 18 inches tall.
Flexiblity for Garden Uses
Because bluebells are native to a range of habitats, including meadows, rocky hillsides, sandy soils and rocky crevices, they work well in many types of gardens. Tuck them into the small openings of a rock wall or among other small plants in a rock garden. Or plant them in a lightly shaded woodland area of your yard where they will multiply and naturalize to form a mass of bright blue in the late spring and throughout the summer. Moreover, bluebells attract hummingbirds wherever you plant them.
Growing Bluebells
Bluebells are common in wooded areas of Scotland, England and the United States, where they grow in USDA zones 3 to 8. They are grown from bulbs, which can endure frosts and hot temperatures. Plant the bulbs 2 inches underground in the fall, before the first frost. Plant bluebells at least 12 inches apart. The bluebell prefers partial sun with some shade in the afternoon. They do well when planted with ferns and other woodland plants. These plants do best when kept moist, so water them daily. Bluebells are useful for keeping the pest nematodes under control.
Propagation for More Plants
Bluebells are rapidly spreading perennials. As perennials, they will return each spring. As they return, they spread in clumps and choke out nearby vegetation if they are not divided every two or three years. Divide plants that are outgrowing their space in the garden. Divide the plants in fall. Place plant divisions in the ground before the threat of frost. Place 2 inches of manure over bulbs in the fall to ensure healthy plants the following spring.
Bell-Shaped Flowers
Native to England and Scotland, bluebell is a perennial plant named for the shape of the flower which looks like a tiny bell. These flowers grow in clusters and are usually, but not always, blue as the name implies. Bluebells can be a creamy, off-white color. The cream-colored bluebell is rarely found in nature. This plant has long stems and narrow leaves. It grows to be 12 to 18 inches tall.
Flexiblity for Garden Uses
Because bluebells are native to a range of habitats, including meadows, rocky hillsides, sandy soils and rocky crevices, they work well in many types of gardens. Tuck them into the small openings of a rock wall or among other small plants in a rock garden. Or plant them in a lightly shaded woodland area of your yard where they will multiply and naturalize to form a mass of bright blue in the late spring and throughout the summer. Moreover, bluebells attract hummingbirds wherever you plant them.
Growing Bluebells
Bluebells are common in wooded areas of Scotland, England and the United States, where they grow in USDA zones 3 to 8. They are grown from bulbs, which can endure frosts and hot temperatures. Plant the bulbs 2 inches underground in the fall, before the first frost. Plant bluebells at least 12 inches apart. The bluebell prefers partial sun with some shade in the afternoon. They do well when planted with ferns and other woodland plants. These plants do best when kept moist, so water them daily. Bluebells are useful for keeping the pest nematodes under control.
Propagation for More Plants
Bluebells are rapidly spreading perennials. As perennials, they will return each spring. As they return, they spread in clumps and choke out nearby vegetation if they are not divided every two or three years. Divide plants that are outgrowing their space in the garden. Divide the plants in fall. Place plant divisions in the ground before the threat of frost. Place 2 inches of manure over bulbs in the fall to ensure healthy plants the following spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
The care and effort it takes to overwinter elephant ears (Colocasia spp.), which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with some variation within species, depends on your climate. In frost-free tropical and sub-tropical areas, these lush foliage plants grow year-round with minimal winter care. In frost-prone regions, overwintering elephant ears takes a little more effort, but it's worth it when the 2- to 3-foot-long heart-shaped leaves bring a tropical flair to the garden the following summer.
Mild Climates Need Little Care
In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year.
Frosty Areas Require Some Protection
While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials.
Overwintering Indoors
Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and .
Overwintering Pots Indoors
Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors.
Digging and Storing Tubers
Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.
Mild Climates Need Little Care
In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year.
Frosty Areas Require Some Protection
While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials.
Overwintering Indoors
Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and .
Overwintering Pots Indoors
Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors.
Digging and Storing Tubers
Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Petunias (Petunia spp.) grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and are broken into four categories of grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and spreading types, but they are often treated as annuals. Though a prolonged frost can kill petunias, including new transplants, established and older transplants usually can survive a light frost, according to Colorado State University Extension. Cells within plant stems and roots freeze and burst when the temperature cools quickly during a frost, which can kill tender perennials. Prompt plant protection can help petunias survive a frost, as long as the temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit aren't prolonged. You also can protect newly planted petunias in spring or early summer when a late frost occurs. If frost damage does occur, wait until all danger of frost has left your area before pruning affected foliage.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Hellebore is the common spelling for Helleborus spp., a genus of flowering perennials that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on species. Ideally, transplant hellebores during their dormant period in fall. The popular variety lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, adapts most readily to transplanting. Regardless of species, it may take two to three years for plants to fully recover after a move and start blooming with their previous abundance.
Relocation and Bed Preparation
Ideally, transplant hellebores at one or two years old. You can still transplant more mature, established hellebores, but success rate and recovery time will vary.
Hellebores thrive in light shade and moist, organically rich soil. Before transplanting, prepare the bed at the new location by mixing compost with the soil. Use a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer spread evenly over the bed, then dig it 12 inches deep into the soil. Adding the compost before transplanting hellebores provides the high amount organic matter these perennials enjoy.
There's no need to cut back hellebores before transplanting.
Digging and Transplanting
Use a shovel to dig out and lift the root ball from the soil. To get enough of the roots, look at the drip line -- the soil under the outer leaf tips -- and dig the root ball the same diameter.
Dig a hole at the new planting site the same depth and slightly wider than the root mass.
Set the hellebore in the hole -- adjust the soil level at the bottom until the point where the roots meet the stem sits level with the soil -- then fill in around the root ball. Use the same soil you just dug out to fill the hole.
Water and Mulching
Water right after transplanting. This settles the soil, minimizes transplant shock and helps the roots adapt quickly to the new environment. Water when the top of the soil feels dry through any remaining dry fall weather.
Mulch the bed to keep the soil moist after transplanting. The mulch layer also provides some cold protection over winter. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost spread evenly over the soil but leave 1 to 2 inches of space between the hellebore stalks and the compost. This helps minimize rot and insect problems.
Transplanting Seedlings
When mature hellebores go to seed after flowering, new seedlings grow the following spring near the parent plant. You can transplant these seedlings in the spring, either into pots or to fill out new areas of the garden. Transplant them when they are big enough to handle, and before new foliage on the parent plant blocks the sun. Dig out the seedlings with a small trowel, being careful not to disrupt the root ball. Replant them in moist soil and light shade.
To plant the seedlings in pots, select containers at least 8 inches in diameter with drainage holes, filled with potting soil.
Relocation and Bed Preparation
Ideally, transplant hellebores at one or two years old. You can still transplant more mature, established hellebores, but success rate and recovery time will vary.
Hellebores thrive in light shade and moist, organically rich soil. Before transplanting, prepare the bed at the new location by mixing compost with the soil. Use a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer spread evenly over the bed, then dig it 12 inches deep into the soil. Adding the compost before transplanting hellebores provides the high amount organic matter these perennials enjoy.
There's no need to cut back hellebores before transplanting.
Digging and Transplanting
Use a shovel to dig out and lift the root ball from the soil. To get enough of the roots, look at the drip line -- the soil under the outer leaf tips -- and dig the root ball the same diameter.
Dig a hole at the new planting site the same depth and slightly wider than the root mass.
Set the hellebore in the hole -- adjust the soil level at the bottom until the point where the roots meet the stem sits level with the soil -- then fill in around the root ball. Use the same soil you just dug out to fill the hole.
Water and Mulching
Water right after transplanting. This settles the soil, minimizes transplant shock and helps the roots adapt quickly to the new environment. Water when the top of the soil feels dry through any remaining dry fall weather.
Mulch the bed to keep the soil moist after transplanting. The mulch layer also provides some cold protection over winter. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost spread evenly over the soil but leave 1 to 2 inches of space between the hellebore stalks and the compost. This helps minimize rot and insect problems.
Transplanting Seedlings
When mature hellebores go to seed after flowering, new seedlings grow the following spring near the parent plant. You can transplant these seedlings in the spring, either into pots or to fill out new areas of the garden. Transplant them when they are big enough to handle, and before new foliage on the parent plant blocks the sun. Dig out the seedlings with a small trowel, being careful not to disrupt the root ball. Replant them in moist soil and light shade.
To plant the seedlings in pots, select containers at least 8 inches in diameter with drainage holes, filled with potting soil.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) usually bloom for three to four weeks, but shade, drought, too much fertilizer or crowding can prevent flowering. These perennials grow in upright clumps 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, and grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety. Selecting day lilies that thrive in the growing conditions in your garden gives the best chance of plentiful blooms.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Shasta daisies are an old-fashioned favorite in the garden. Both novice and experienced gardeners will easily grow a beautiful clump of shasta daisies in a sunny growing area that will return year after year to provide lovely summer blooms. As the years go by, shasta daisies will expand and many gardeners like to divide them to create new shasta daisy plants. You can easily divide shasta daisy plants in the spring when they first sprout from the soil.
Step 1
Watch for the first growth of the shasta daisies in the spring. When you see this growth, dig with the shovel to remove the entire shasta daisy clump. Make sure you keep the roots intact as you remove the clump from the soil. Place the clump onto the ground nearby.
Step 2
Use your hands or a utility knife to separate the outer portions of the plant (foliage and entire root systems together). As long as the divided portions of the clump have both foliage and roots, they should grow.
Step 3
Examine the inner portions of the clump to see if there are any parts that appear old and woody. If you find portions like this, cut them out and discard them.
Step 4
Prepare a new growing area by working the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 8 inches. Add 2 inches of compost to the top of the soil to improve the soil composition and work this in well with the spade.
Step 5
Dig holes for each shasta daisy plant that are 18 inches apart and deep enough to accommodate the root systems with the plants being at the same depth as they were previously growing.
Step 6
Place the newly divided shasta daisy plants into the prepared holes and fill soil in around the roots. Tamp down the soil around the plants with your hands and provide a generous amount of water for each shasta daisy plant.
Step 1
Watch for the first growth of the shasta daisies in the spring. When you see this growth, dig with the shovel to remove the entire shasta daisy clump. Make sure you keep the roots intact as you remove the clump from the soil. Place the clump onto the ground nearby.
Step 2
Use your hands or a utility knife to separate the outer portions of the plant (foliage and entire root systems together). As long as the divided portions of the clump have both foliage and roots, they should grow.
Step 3
Examine the inner portions of the clump to see if there are any parts that appear old and woody. If you find portions like this, cut them out and discard them.
Step 4
Prepare a new growing area by working the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 8 inches. Add 2 inches of compost to the top of the soil to improve the soil composition and work this in well with the spade.
Step 5
Dig holes for each shasta daisy plant that are 18 inches apart and deep enough to accommodate the root systems with the plants being at the same depth as they were previously growing.
Step 6
Place the newly divided shasta daisy plants into the prepared holes and fill soil in around the roots. Tamp down the soil around the plants with your hands and provide a generous amount of water for each shasta daisy plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum X superbum) are undemanding plants, but pruning encourages more flowers and stronger growth. These perennials grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and thrive in full sun and well-drained, alkaline soils. They benefit from pruning from mid-summer onward, and dividing plants also encourages healthy growth. Shasta daisies grow 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Purslane, scientific name Portulaca oleracea, is an annual, edible succulent plant. It is also called Pusley, Verdolaga, Pigweed, and Hogweed.
Description
Purslane has a thick reddish stem and succulent, rounded leaves that grow in clusters. Its flowers are small and yellow, with five petals, and they bloom according to rainfall or moisture. It grows low to the ground and tends to spread.
Origin
Purslane originated in North Africa, the Middle East, and India. It probably spread to North America and elsewhere prior to the mid-1400s.
Cultivation
Purslane is an easy plant to grow, even in an arid climate. As a succulent, it is heat- and drought-tolerant, and a very hardy plant. In fact, it is often considered a weed in North America. It tends to sprawl across the ground, and will need to be cut back to be maintained.
Check with regulations in your area before planting purslane; in some regions it is considered an invasive weed.
Culinary Uses
All parts of Purslane are edible: leaves, flowers, and stem. It has a slightly sweet and sour flavor and a chewy texture. It is commonly eaten fresh, cooked, or in soups and stews.
Interesting Facts
Purslane is sometimes known as the Dolly Parton flower because of when it blooms--from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Purslane is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A and C.
It is considered a edible plant in Mexican, Russian, and Mediterranean cultures, among others.
Description
Purslane has a thick reddish stem and succulent, rounded leaves that grow in clusters. Its flowers are small and yellow, with five petals, and they bloom according to rainfall or moisture. It grows low to the ground and tends to spread.
Origin
Purslane originated in North Africa, the Middle East, and India. It probably spread to North America and elsewhere prior to the mid-1400s.
Cultivation
Purslane is an easy plant to grow, even in an arid climate. As a succulent, it is heat- and drought-tolerant, and a very hardy plant. In fact, it is often considered a weed in North America. It tends to sprawl across the ground, and will need to be cut back to be maintained.
Check with regulations in your area before planting purslane; in some regions it is considered an invasive weed.
Culinary Uses
All parts of Purslane are edible: leaves, flowers, and stem. It has a slightly sweet and sour flavor and a chewy texture. It is commonly eaten fresh, cooked, or in soups and stews.
Interesting Facts
Purslane is sometimes known as the Dolly Parton flower because of when it blooms--from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Purslane is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A and C.
It is considered a edible plant in Mexican, Russian, and Mediterranean cultures, among others.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
If you're growing a weigela (Weigela spp.) or you're thinking of planting one, you probably know that it's an especially easy-to-grow shrub. A tough plant that has masses of colorful flowers in late spring or early summer, a weigela is cold-tolerant and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Whatever type of weigela you grow, it's a good idea to give it a bit of extra care as winter approaches and at winters end to help keep it flourishing.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
Fall Preparation
Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm.
Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them.
Winter Sun Damage
Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled.
You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub.
At Winter's End
Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back.
Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
The large, showy blooms of peonies tempt many gardeners to include them in a landscape. Peonies (Paeonia spp.) grow native in a wide variety of locations, including meadows and rocky ares. They typically prefer cool weather, but adapt readily to different garden conditions in Texas if properly cared for.
Best Locations
Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast.
Planting Tips
Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions.
Watering Peonies
Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.
Best Locations
Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast.
Planting Tips
Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions.
Watering Peonies
Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
There are many varieties of phlox available to gardeners, from dwarf varieties that are stunning in borders and beds to tall varieties that grow to 3 feet or more and are used in background plantings. A perennial, phlox produces spikes of brightly colored flowers that rise from the green foliage. Phlox can bloom for six weeks or longer when properly cared for. Deadheading removes the spent blossoms and prevents the phlox from setting seed, which helps prolong flowering while also keeping the plants attractive.
Step 1
Cut off spent flower clusters as soon as the flowers begin to wither with a pair of small shears. Cut 1/4 inch above the bud that is forming immediately beneath the spent flower cluster.
Step 2
Cut off the entire flower spike once all the buds have bloomed and there are no new buds forming along the stem. Cut the spike off where it emerges from the plant.
Step 3
Dispose of or compost the removed flower clusters and spikes after deadheading. Phlox is prone to powdery mildew, and the fungal spores can survive in the dead plant matter, where they can then infect the entire plant.
Step 1
Cut off spent flower clusters as soon as the flowers begin to wither with a pair of small shears. Cut 1/4 inch above the bud that is forming immediately beneath the spent flower cluster.
Step 2
Cut off the entire flower spike once all the buds have bloomed and there are no new buds forming along the stem. Cut the spike off where it emerges from the plant.
Step 3
Dispose of or compost the removed flower clusters and spikes after deadheading. Phlox is prone to powdery mildew, and the fungal spores can survive in the dead plant matter, where they can then infect the entire plant.
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