文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
A hanging basket provides a colorful show of blooms during summer. Use perennial plants for your hanging basket for lasting value, since they start to grow again in spring. Choose different varieties of plants for volume and interest. Use trailing plants to hang over the side of the basket and add foliage plants as a green background to bright colored flowers. Water a hanging basket daily, and dead-head the flowers regularly to ensure a continuous display.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Hostas (Hosta spp.), also called plantain lily, funkia or August lily are cool customers in the shade garden. These herbaceous perennials die back in fall and live through winter in a dormant state, only to grow again the following spring. Hostas have some simple fall grooming needs. If they grow in containers or gardens in warmer climates, you'll also want to tuck them in to maintain a consistent soil temperature.
Hosta Notes
Hostas do best in dappled shade or with two to three hours of morning sun. A well-draining, organic soil that stays moist, never soggy keeps these woodland plants growing and healthy. Garden hostas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. A few extend past these limits. The old-fashioned August lily (Hosta plantanginea) grows in USDA zones 3 through 9 and Siebold's hostas (Hosta sieboldiana "Elegans") grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Basic Trimming
Trim dead leaves down to the ground in late fall to prevent crown rot and to discourage rodents and slugs from adopting the pile for winter shelter. Whenever you groom hostas, clean shears and wipe cutting surfaces, which can become pitted, with a half-and-half mixture of rubbing alcohol and water to guard against transmission of fungal infections or rots.
End of Season Care
When air temperatures begin to drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night, the outer leaves begin to droop and leaf production in the center of each crown stops. Eventually, all of the leaves will become desiccated and drop over. It's important for your hostas to continue to receive 1 inch of water throughout the fall, but if soil deficiencies necessitate fertilizing hostas, stop feeding them in July or early August or you'll force them to continue to produce leaves. This growth will be pale and tender, making the whole plant -- including its crown and roots -- susceptible to frost damage. Wait until leaves fall over to groom hostas because they are needed after flowering to produce food for next year's growth.
Preparing Container Hostas for Winter
If you have the space, sink potted hosta plants into the soil to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating. If the pots cannot be buried, move the plant containers into a sheltered area once you've trimmed the plants. Put them against a wall under an overhang or in an unheated building so the pots can't collect water over winter.
Mulch to Regulate Temperature
In USDA zones 6 through 9 or if your hostas are in containers, mulch hostas with a 3- to 4-inch layer of pine straw to even out soil temperatures. All hostas grow and flower best when subjected to a period of freezing or near-freezing temperatures during their dormant periods. An Auburn University study found that, although the number of days or weeks varies by variety and cultivar, chilling encourages earlier emergence and better growth. Mulching keeps soil from heating and cooling each day and night, interrupting chilling periods. Mulch is not necessary in USDA zones below 6 where winter temperatures stay well below freezing for months.
Hosta Notes
Hostas do best in dappled shade or with two to three hours of morning sun. A well-draining, organic soil that stays moist, never soggy keeps these woodland plants growing and healthy. Garden hostas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. A few extend past these limits. The old-fashioned August lily (Hosta plantanginea) grows in USDA zones 3 through 9 and Siebold's hostas (Hosta sieboldiana "Elegans") grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Basic Trimming
Trim dead leaves down to the ground in late fall to prevent crown rot and to discourage rodents and slugs from adopting the pile for winter shelter. Whenever you groom hostas, clean shears and wipe cutting surfaces, which can become pitted, with a half-and-half mixture of rubbing alcohol and water to guard against transmission of fungal infections or rots.
End of Season Care
When air temperatures begin to drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night, the outer leaves begin to droop and leaf production in the center of each crown stops. Eventually, all of the leaves will become desiccated and drop over. It's important for your hostas to continue to receive 1 inch of water throughout the fall, but if soil deficiencies necessitate fertilizing hostas, stop feeding them in July or early August or you'll force them to continue to produce leaves. This growth will be pale and tender, making the whole plant -- including its crown and roots -- susceptible to frost damage. Wait until leaves fall over to groom hostas because they are needed after flowering to produce food for next year's growth.
Preparing Container Hostas for Winter
If you have the space, sink potted hosta plants into the soil to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating. If the pots cannot be buried, move the plant containers into a sheltered area once you've trimmed the plants. Put them against a wall under an overhang or in an unheated building so the pots can't collect water over winter.
Mulch to Regulate Temperature
In USDA zones 6 through 9 or if your hostas are in containers, mulch hostas with a 3- to 4-inch layer of pine straw to even out soil temperatures. All hostas grow and flower best when subjected to a period of freezing or near-freezing temperatures during their dormant periods. An Auburn University study found that, although the number of days or weeks varies by variety and cultivar, chilling encourages earlier emergence and better growth. Mulching keeps soil from heating and cooling each day and night, interrupting chilling periods. Mulch is not necessary in USDA zones below 6 where winter temperatures stay well below freezing for months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
When shopping for new plants, many gardeners keep an eye out for something pretty to grow in that shady area of the garden. Found in nature growing on the forest floor, horny goat weed (Epimedium spp) is worth considering, for its bronze and red-tipped foliage as well as its winter hardiness. Also known as bishop's hat and barrenwort, horny goat weed is a perennial flowering plant, hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata), sometimes called sword ferns, have bright green fronds that grow up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The fronds have serrated edges and a rough texture. They are shade-lovers and grow best in soil that is very rich and lightly moist. Boston ferns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8B through 11 and can be planted outdoors during any season. Frost will kill the foliage during winter, but new fronds emerge from the center of the plant once temperatures warm in spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
A low-maintenance plant, ferns grow well in most homes. Many ferns are tropical in origin and can only be grown indoors where they are protected from frost. One of the primary reasons the plants suffer is from improper care. Ferns have different light, water and fertilizer requirements when compared to other common houseplants. If the ferns are weak or dying, ensuring they receive what they need to remain healthy usually revives the plants.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Dracaena corn plants (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') belong within the family Agavaceae. This evergreen, perennial shrub thrives outdoors in frost-free areas of the United States. Plants grow slowly, reaching up to 15 feet tall at maturity. Sword-like leaves reach up to 1 foot long and grow in bunches at the top of tall trunks, or canes. Plumes of fragrant white flowers bloom periodically year-round. Plants are suitable used as specimens, houseplants, or grown in containers or planters. Gardeners can prune corn plants to control its size, or start new plants from the cuttings.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Crocosmia (Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora), also known as montbretia, is a sturdy summer bloomer that produces thick, strappy foliage topped with masses of bright, funnel-shaped flowers in shades of orange, yellow or red. At maturity, the flower stalks grow to heights of 2 to 3 feet. Native to South Africa, crocosmia flourishes in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. In cooler climates, crocosmia's bulblike corms must be removed from the ground in autumn and stored for the winter.
Plant crocosmia corms after the ground can be worked in springtime. Select a spot with well-drained soil, and work a balanced fertilizer into the soil before planting. A granular, slow-release, 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 3 square feet is sufficient. Plant the corms 6 to 8 inches apart and 3 to 5 inches deep. The plant likes full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In warmer climates, crocosmia can be planted in either fall or spring.
Water the crocosmia deeply at planting time, approximately 1 gallon of water per square foot, so the soil is saturated. After that time, crocosmia requires no supplemental irrigation until growth emerges in a few weeks. After growth appears, water crocosmia thoroughly to saturate the soil every seven to 10 days.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planting area after planting the crocosmia. Mulch helps retain the soil's moisture and keep soil temperatures from fluctuating. Mulch also helps deter growth of weeds that compete with crocosmia for moisture and nutrients.
Fertilize crocosmia, using a general-purpose garden fertilizer, when the shoots are 6 to 8 inches tall. Use a water-soluble fertilizer with all three numbers the same, such as 15-15-15. Mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and water thoroughly. Repeat the process again when the blooms appear.
Clip crocosmia blooms as often as desired for cut flower bouquets. Use sharp garden scissors, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after cutting to prevent spreading disease. Remove spent blooms regularly, by hand or with scissors, to promote more blooms. After blooming, leave the foliage. Let it die down naturally on its own. This helps refuel the corms for next year.
Divide crocosmia every three to four years to keep the plant from becoming overcrowded. Don't divide more often; crocosmia blooms most profusely when slightly crowded. Dig the entire clump in autumn with a garden spade, then divide it into smaller sections. Wear gloves, gently pull the corms apart, and replant the smaller sections in a prepared spot. Crocosmia has few pests or diseases, but throw away any soft or damaged corms that look unhealthy.
Dig crocosmia corms after the foliage dies down in autumn, if you live in a climate cooler than USDA zone 6. Place the corms in a sheltered spot to dry for one or two days, then place the corms in a paper bag or cardboard box filled with sawdust or peat moss. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry room where temperatures will stay between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the winter months. When spring arrives, replant the crocosmia corms in your garden.
Plant crocosmia corms after the ground can be worked in springtime. Select a spot with well-drained soil, and work a balanced fertilizer into the soil before planting. A granular, slow-release, 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 3 square feet is sufficient. Plant the corms 6 to 8 inches apart and 3 to 5 inches deep. The plant likes full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In warmer climates, crocosmia can be planted in either fall or spring.
Water the crocosmia deeply at planting time, approximately 1 gallon of water per square foot, so the soil is saturated. After that time, crocosmia requires no supplemental irrigation until growth emerges in a few weeks. After growth appears, water crocosmia thoroughly to saturate the soil every seven to 10 days.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the planting area after planting the crocosmia. Mulch helps retain the soil's moisture and keep soil temperatures from fluctuating. Mulch also helps deter growth of weeds that compete with crocosmia for moisture and nutrients.
Fertilize crocosmia, using a general-purpose garden fertilizer, when the shoots are 6 to 8 inches tall. Use a water-soluble fertilizer with all three numbers the same, such as 15-15-15. Mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and water thoroughly. Repeat the process again when the blooms appear.
Clip crocosmia blooms as often as desired for cut flower bouquets. Use sharp garden scissors, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after cutting to prevent spreading disease. Remove spent blooms regularly, by hand or with scissors, to promote more blooms. After blooming, leave the foliage. Let it die down naturally on its own. This helps refuel the corms for next year.
Divide crocosmia every three to four years to keep the plant from becoming overcrowded. Don't divide more often; crocosmia blooms most profusely when slightly crowded. Dig the entire clump in autumn with a garden spade, then divide it into smaller sections. Wear gloves, gently pull the corms apart, and replant the smaller sections in a prepared spot. Crocosmia has few pests or diseases, but throw away any soft or damaged corms that look unhealthy.
Dig crocosmia corms after the foliage dies down in autumn, if you live in a climate cooler than USDA zone 6. Place the corms in a sheltered spot to dry for one or two days, then place the corms in a paper bag or cardboard box filled with sawdust or peat moss. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry room where temperatures will stay between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for the winter months. When spring arrives, replant the crocosmia corms in your garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Black-eyed susans (Rudbeckia hirta) grow as biennials or short-lived perennials. They break dormancy the first year and flower the next. You can sow the seeds outdoors in fall or spring, but they still require some fall preparation for a spring planting. Black-eyed Susans grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, where they perform much like perennials because they readily self-sow.
Fall Sowing
Black-eyed Susans sprout in the spring if you plant them in fall in climates that experience at least three months of temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the seeds in early to midfall, about six weeks before the first expected frost. Work a 2-inch-thick layer of compost into the top 8 inches of a well-drained garden bed that receives full summer sun. The plants grow in average soil conditions, so fertilizer amendments aren't necessary. Sow approximately six seeds per square foot and cover them with a 1/4- to 1/2-inch layer of soil. Not all seeds germinate the first year, which is why you need to sow so thickly.
Spring Planting
Seeds sown in spring require pretreatment if you want flowers the first year. Keep the seeds in a place where it's 40 F or cooler, either outdoors or in the refrigerator, for three months before planting to help the seeds break dormancy. Plant the seeds 1/4-inch deep in the prepared garden bed in spring, after the last frost date. Space the seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions and thin them to the appropriate spacing after they germinate.
Indoor Planting
Indoor-sown black-eyed Susans still require cold treatment to germinate. Pot the seeds in cell packs or 2-inch seedling pots in fall, sowing one or two seeds per container. Use a moistened, sterile seed-starting media to minimize fungal growth. After potting, place the containers in a sealed bag to retain moisture and place the pots outdoors or in the fridge to maintain the 40 F temperature. Take the pots out of cold storage four to six weeks before the last frost date. Provide them with all-day sun and water when the soil surface feels dry. The seedlings should be about 6 inches tall and ready for outdoor transplant by the last expected frost in spring. Plant the seedlings at the same depth they are at in the pot, spacing them 12 inches apart in the garden bed.
Early Care
Moderately moist soil helps ensure germination and healthy seedling growth. Water the bed beginning in spring as needed so the top 6 inches of soil stay moist. Direct-sown seeds will require thinning after they sprout. Pinch off the extra seedlings at ground level once the plants begin growing in their second or third set of leaves. Black-eyed Susan plants grow to a 12 inch spread, so leave about 12 inches between plants. Slugs can destroy the seedlings. Set slug traps around the garden or hand pick the pests from the bed after dark. Once established, black-eyed Susans require little care and rarely suffer from pest problems.
Fall Sowing
Black-eyed Susans sprout in the spring if you plant them in fall in climates that experience at least three months of temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the seeds in early to midfall, about six weeks before the first expected frost. Work a 2-inch-thick layer of compost into the top 8 inches of a well-drained garden bed that receives full summer sun. The plants grow in average soil conditions, so fertilizer amendments aren't necessary. Sow approximately six seeds per square foot and cover them with a 1/4- to 1/2-inch layer of soil. Not all seeds germinate the first year, which is why you need to sow so thickly.
Spring Planting
Seeds sown in spring require pretreatment if you want flowers the first year. Keep the seeds in a place where it's 40 F or cooler, either outdoors or in the refrigerator, for three months before planting to help the seeds break dormancy. Plant the seeds 1/4-inch deep in the prepared garden bed in spring, after the last frost date. Space the seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions and thin them to the appropriate spacing after they germinate.
Indoor Planting
Indoor-sown black-eyed Susans still require cold treatment to germinate. Pot the seeds in cell packs or 2-inch seedling pots in fall, sowing one or two seeds per container. Use a moistened, sterile seed-starting media to minimize fungal growth. After potting, place the containers in a sealed bag to retain moisture and place the pots outdoors or in the fridge to maintain the 40 F temperature. Take the pots out of cold storage four to six weeks before the last frost date. Provide them with all-day sun and water when the soil surface feels dry. The seedlings should be about 6 inches tall and ready for outdoor transplant by the last expected frost in spring. Plant the seedlings at the same depth they are at in the pot, spacing them 12 inches apart in the garden bed.
Early Care
Moderately moist soil helps ensure germination and healthy seedling growth. Water the bed beginning in spring as needed so the top 6 inches of soil stay moist. Direct-sown seeds will require thinning after they sprout. Pinch off the extra seedlings at ground level once the plants begin growing in their second or third set of leaves. Black-eyed Susan plants grow to a 12 inch spread, so leave about 12 inches between plants. Slugs can destroy the seedlings. Set slug traps around the garden or hand pick the pests from the bed after dark. Once established, black-eyed Susans require little care and rarely suffer from pest problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月11日
Although sedums are hardy plants that grow in even harsh conditions with little care, they often become floppy and collapse in the center. Floppiness is especially a problem with tall sedum varieties such as "Autumn Joy," "Black Jack" and "Autumn Fire. A few minutes of routine maintenance keeps sedums bushy and upright.
Causes
Floppiness is normal for tall sedum varieties that aren't routinely pruned; the plant eventually becomes top heavy and collapses under the weight of the blooms. Lack of sunlight and too much fertility in the soil are also common causes of floppiness and caving in at the center of the plant. Sedum is a warm-weather succulent plant that thrives in full sunlight and average or poor soil. Some sedum varieties are tough enough to thrive in dry, gravelly soil.
Pinching
Pinching is a simple method of promoting compact, sturdy, bushy growth on new sedum plants. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. Pinching causes a slight delay in blooming, but the result will be more blooms and healthier plants.
Pruning
While it seems extreme, a good pruning is the best solution for a tall, lanky sedum. If your plants are beginning to look tipsy in late spring or early summer, use your garden shears or clippers to cut the plants to a height of about 6 to 8 inches. The plants may initially look like victims of a bad haircut, but they will soon rebound and look better than ever. Pruning can safely be done every year if needed and is especially effective for sedums grown in shade.
Division
Division is the best fix for an older sedum, especially if the center of the plant looks like it's dying down and becoming woody and unattractive. To divide sedum, dig up the entire plant. Pull the plant apart into smaller plants, each with several healthy roots. If a plant is too large to dig, use a trowel or shovel to cut a section from the side of the plant. Division is a good opportunity to move the sedum to a spot in full sunlight and to discard old, woody sections. To keep sedum healthy, get in the habit of routinely dividing the plant every other year.
Tips
Water sedum sparingly; wet soil may cause sedum to rot and die. In most parts of the country, sedum thrives with no supplemental irrigation but benefits from an occasional light watering during long periods of hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize sedum; fertilizer contributes to rich soil, which can cause floppiness and weak growth.
Causes
Floppiness is normal for tall sedum varieties that aren't routinely pruned; the plant eventually becomes top heavy and collapses under the weight of the blooms. Lack of sunlight and too much fertility in the soil are also common causes of floppiness and caving in at the center of the plant. Sedum is a warm-weather succulent plant that thrives in full sunlight and average or poor soil. Some sedum varieties are tough enough to thrive in dry, gravelly soil.
Pinching
Pinching is a simple method of promoting compact, sturdy, bushy growth on new sedum plants. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. Pinching causes a slight delay in blooming, but the result will be more blooms and healthier plants.
Pruning
While it seems extreme, a good pruning is the best solution for a tall, lanky sedum. If your plants are beginning to look tipsy in late spring or early summer, use your garden shears or clippers to cut the plants to a height of about 6 to 8 inches. The plants may initially look like victims of a bad haircut, but they will soon rebound and look better than ever. Pruning can safely be done every year if needed and is especially effective for sedums grown in shade.
Division
Division is the best fix for an older sedum, especially if the center of the plant looks like it's dying down and becoming woody and unattractive. To divide sedum, dig up the entire plant. Pull the plant apart into smaller plants, each with several healthy roots. If a plant is too large to dig, use a trowel or shovel to cut a section from the side of the plant. Division is a good opportunity to move the sedum to a spot in full sunlight and to discard old, woody sections. To keep sedum healthy, get in the habit of routinely dividing the plant every other year.
Tips
Water sedum sparingly; wet soil may cause sedum to rot and die. In most parts of the country, sedum thrives with no supplemental irrigation but benefits from an occasional light watering during long periods of hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize sedum; fertilizer contributes to rich soil, which can cause floppiness and weak growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are desirable tropical plants that grow outdoors in climates that receive no frost and as houseplants and bonsai specimens in cooler regions. Although they are not true palms and are more closely related to pine trees, sago palms look like palms and serve as interesting landscape plants. The 250 species of plants in the Cycad plant family are some of the most ancient seed-producing plant species. When the sago palm reproduces, it forms young plants, called offshoots or "pups" at its base.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
To grow papayas, you need only four things: a frost-free climate, oodles of sunshine, plenty of water and excellent soil. If you can give your plant these things, the entire wonderful world of papaya cultivation can be yours.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
The flowers called daisies are all members of the aster family but differ in hardiness, culture and bloom period. In addition to the traditional white Shasta daisy, several other daisies grow in most U.S. hardiness zones. Unfortunately, "daisy" is a common name and scientific names shift from time to time. Whatever their names, though, cutting gardens yield long-lasting bouquets all summer when planted with several varieties of these sun-loving flowers.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
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