文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Shallots, the mild-tasting onions favored by the French, can be expensive to buy at the grocery store but grow easily in a home garden. If you can grow onions, you can grow shallots. All you need is well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, plenty of moisture and a few shallot sets from the grocery store. Shallots mature over the course of one summer, producing a set of small onions, rather than one large onion. Harvest them for use in sauces or savory dishes but save a few to plant for the following spring.
Step 1
Buy French shallots from the grocery store. Look for shallots that have firm, dry skins and are heavy in size. Avoid those with soft or sunken spots. Make sure you are buying true French shallots, rather than multiplier onions, which do not taste like shallots.
Step 2
Pull apart the shallot clusters to form individual bulbs. Some vendors sell individual shallots, rather than clusters, eliminating this step.
Step 3
Spread 3 inches of compost over the garden area. Dig it into a depth of 8 inches with a shovel. Plant shallots in early spring as soon as the soil is soft enough to work. Plant them 2 inches deep, with the pointed end up, and 6 inches apart.
Step 4
Water the soil frequently to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Pull weeds by hand early because shallots don't compete well with them. A weedy garden bed diminishes yields.
Step 5
Harvest shallots in the fall when the leaves have died back. Dig them up, brush off the earth and allow them to cure in a dry location for several days. Store them in mesh bags or baskets.
Step 1
Buy French shallots from the grocery store. Look for shallots that have firm, dry skins and are heavy in size. Avoid those with soft or sunken spots. Make sure you are buying true French shallots, rather than multiplier onions, which do not taste like shallots.
Step 2
Pull apart the shallot clusters to form individual bulbs. Some vendors sell individual shallots, rather than clusters, eliminating this step.
Step 3
Spread 3 inches of compost over the garden area. Dig it into a depth of 8 inches with a shovel. Plant shallots in early spring as soon as the soil is soft enough to work. Plant them 2 inches deep, with the pointed end up, and 6 inches apart.
Step 4
Water the soil frequently to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Pull weeds by hand early because shallots don't compete well with them. A weedy garden bed diminishes yields.
Step 5
Harvest shallots in the fall when the leaves have died back. Dig them up, brush off the earth and allow them to cure in a dry location for several days. Store them in mesh bags or baskets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Jalapenos are easy-to-grow pepper plants that produce abundantly if you live in an area with plenty of sunshine. The amount of time jalapenos produce in the garden depends on the length of your growing season. They begin bearing ripe fruit two to three months after being transplanted and continue to ripen fruit until frost.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa), also called cos lettuce, makes a rather elegant statement in containers with its upright growth habit and narrow leaves. Well-suited for containers, romaine can grow alone, with other types of lettuce such as looseleaf, butterhead or crisphead, or in combination with colorful flowering plants. Grow a single plant in a 2-gallon pot or several plants in a 12-inch container. Numerous varieties exist; try combining cultivars with different leaf colors and plant heights.
Container Choices
Although a romaine lettuce can grow in containers as small as a 4-inch pot, growth is optimum in larger containers where the soil doesn't dry as fast and there's room for root growth. Begin with clean containers with multiple drainage holes. Wash used pots in hot, soapy water and rinse well. Soak pots for at least five minutes in a mixture of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water; rinse well and let dry. Plastic pots are easier to keep clean than clay pots, weigh less and prevent the roots from drying out too quickly.
Light Requirements
Lettuce grows well in sun but can tolerate partial shade, although heads may not be as tightly furled. In hot summer areas, consider moving containers of romaine into partial shade as temperatures warm. Romaine is more tolerant of heat and slower to bolt - or form flower stalks - than other kinds of lettuce, but it will produce longer if protected from hottest exposures.
When to Grow
Romaine is basically a cool season annual plant. In cold winter areas, it grows best in spring and again in fall. In mild winter climates, grow it in fall, winter and spring. Sow the seeds directly in the container 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Thin seedlings after they germinate to the strongest seedlings spaced 6 to 8 inches apart, depending on the cultivar.
Soil and Water
Use a well-draining mix rich in organic material such as a quality soilless potting mix. Keep the soil evenly moist. For container lettuce, this might mean watering every day or every other day because soil in containers dries out more quickly than in garden beds. Romaine is sweeter-tasting than other lettuces, but lettuces can become bitter if the soil is allowed to dry.
Fertilizer Needs
Frequent, light fertilizing throughout the growing season helps develop rapid growth of full, crispy leaves, important if you're continually harvesting outer leaves or if you're using the cut-and-come-again method, where you cut the whole plant off above the soil line, leaving the base to sprout new small heads. Use a product such as 8-4-4 at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Every seven to 10 days, apply fertilizer to the container's soil until the solution comes out of the drainage holes.
Romaine Cultivars
Fit more plants in a container by choosing smaller-growing varieties such as compact, dark green "Monte Carlo" or dark red mini romaine "Truchas." For full-sized plants, consider disease-resistant, 10- to 12-inch-tall "Parris Island Cos." For bronzy-red leaves, similar sized heirloom "Cimarron" dates back to the 1700s. The cultivar "Freckles" is showy enough for ornamental use, with light green leaves randomly splashed with burgundy. Another heirloom variety, it's also known as "Flashy Troutback."
Container Choices
Although a romaine lettuce can grow in containers as small as a 4-inch pot, growth is optimum in larger containers where the soil doesn't dry as fast and there's room for root growth. Begin with clean containers with multiple drainage holes. Wash used pots in hot, soapy water and rinse well. Soak pots for at least five minutes in a mixture of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water; rinse well and let dry. Plastic pots are easier to keep clean than clay pots, weigh less and prevent the roots from drying out too quickly.
Light Requirements
Lettuce grows well in sun but can tolerate partial shade, although heads may not be as tightly furled. In hot summer areas, consider moving containers of romaine into partial shade as temperatures warm. Romaine is more tolerant of heat and slower to bolt - or form flower stalks - than other kinds of lettuce, but it will produce longer if protected from hottest exposures.
When to Grow
Romaine is basically a cool season annual plant. In cold winter areas, it grows best in spring and again in fall. In mild winter climates, grow it in fall, winter and spring. Sow the seeds directly in the container 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Thin seedlings after they germinate to the strongest seedlings spaced 6 to 8 inches apart, depending on the cultivar.
Soil and Water
Use a well-draining mix rich in organic material such as a quality soilless potting mix. Keep the soil evenly moist. For container lettuce, this might mean watering every day or every other day because soil in containers dries out more quickly than in garden beds. Romaine is sweeter-tasting than other lettuces, but lettuces can become bitter if the soil is allowed to dry.
Fertilizer Needs
Frequent, light fertilizing throughout the growing season helps develop rapid growth of full, crispy leaves, important if you're continually harvesting outer leaves or if you're using the cut-and-come-again method, where you cut the whole plant off above the soil line, leaving the base to sprout new small heads. Use a product such as 8-4-4 at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Every seven to 10 days, apply fertilizer to the container's soil until the solution comes out of the drainage holes.
Romaine Cultivars
Fit more plants in a container by choosing smaller-growing varieties such as compact, dark green "Monte Carlo" or dark red mini romaine "Truchas." For full-sized plants, consider disease-resistant, 10- to 12-inch-tall "Parris Island Cos." For bronzy-red leaves, similar sized heirloom "Cimarron" dates back to the 1700s. The cultivar "Freckles" is showy enough for ornamental use, with light green leaves randomly splashed with burgundy. Another heirloom variety, it's also known as "Flashy Troutback."
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
While gardeners grow a number of varieties of beans, the bush and pole types of the string or green bean is the most common. These beans produce a pod that is harvested before maturity for use green or allowed to mature for dry beans. In the case of dry beans the seeds are removed from the pods.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月10日
Determining the water needs of a cucumber plant requires more than reading the seed packet. The quality of the soil, local climate and irrigation method used all affect the amount of water necessary to grow productive cucumbers. Irrigation needs change throughout the gardening season. You must remain attentive throughout the gardening season and determine the cucumber's water needs on a weekly basis.
Soil and Moisture
The type and quality of the soil in the garden influences the water needs of the cucumber plants. The optimum garden provides rich, well-drained soil, but cucumbers can grow successfully in less-optimum soils with proper irrigation. Sandy soils drain quickly so they dry out more often. Cucumbers grown in sandy soil usually require additional irrigation. Clay soil retains water and tends to compact, which inhibits water movement around the cucumber roots. Adding compost or peat moss to the bed before planting aids drainage in heavy soils.
Watering Schedule
Cucumbers typically need 1 to 2 inches of water each week. The plants may require no irrigation when rainfall supplies the required amount of moisture. Feeling the soil before irrigating is a more reliable method of supplying sufficient moisture than sticking to a rigid watering schedule. Cucumbers require watering when the top inch of soil is dry, but before the soil dries at a greater depth. Feel the soil two to three times a week when there is no rainfall and water when necessary. An inch of water thoroughly moistens the top 6 inches of the soil.
Mulch and Water Needs
Mulch affects the amount of watering necessary to maintain your cucumber plants. Plastic mulch applied over the bed before you plant retains the most moisture in the soil, so less watering is necessary. Plastic makes it more difficult to check the soil and deliver water. Installing drip irrigation under the mulch ensures the moisture reaches the soil beneath the mulch. An organic mulch, such as straw, also retains moisture so less watering is necessary. It's possible to water plants with a hose or watering can when organic mulch is applied, and you can still feel the soil beneath the mulch to determine the moisture level.
Watering Tips
Watering the cucumbers in the morning ensures the moisture penetrates to the root zone of the plants before the water evaporates during the heat of the day. Plants watered in the morning may require less irrigation than those watered in the afternoon. Supply the water directly to the soil at the base of instead of from overhead. Overhead watering makes the foliage wet and more prone to fungal growth. More moisture is also lost to evaporation when you overhead water, necessitating more frequent irrigation.
Soil and Moisture
The type and quality of the soil in the garden influences the water needs of the cucumber plants. The optimum garden provides rich, well-drained soil, but cucumbers can grow successfully in less-optimum soils with proper irrigation. Sandy soils drain quickly so they dry out more often. Cucumbers grown in sandy soil usually require additional irrigation. Clay soil retains water and tends to compact, which inhibits water movement around the cucumber roots. Adding compost or peat moss to the bed before planting aids drainage in heavy soils.
Watering Schedule
Cucumbers typically need 1 to 2 inches of water each week. The plants may require no irrigation when rainfall supplies the required amount of moisture. Feeling the soil before irrigating is a more reliable method of supplying sufficient moisture than sticking to a rigid watering schedule. Cucumbers require watering when the top inch of soil is dry, but before the soil dries at a greater depth. Feel the soil two to three times a week when there is no rainfall and water when necessary. An inch of water thoroughly moistens the top 6 inches of the soil.
Mulch and Water Needs
Mulch affects the amount of watering necessary to maintain your cucumber plants. Plastic mulch applied over the bed before you plant retains the most moisture in the soil, so less watering is necessary. Plastic makes it more difficult to check the soil and deliver water. Installing drip irrigation under the mulch ensures the moisture reaches the soil beneath the mulch. An organic mulch, such as straw, also retains moisture so less watering is necessary. It's possible to water plants with a hose or watering can when organic mulch is applied, and you can still feel the soil beneath the mulch to determine the moisture level.
Watering Tips
Watering the cucumbers in the morning ensures the moisture penetrates to the root zone of the plants before the water evaporates during the heat of the day. Plants watered in the morning may require less irrigation than those watered in the afternoon. Supply the water directly to the soil at the base of instead of from overhead. Overhead watering makes the foliage wet and more prone to fungal growth. More moisture is also lost to evaporation when you overhead water, necessitating more frequent irrigation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Green peppers are often referred to as sweet or bell peppers and come in many varieties. Pepper plants originated in tropical areas of the world where they grow as perennials. However, these tender warm-season vegetables are usually planted annually in summer vegetable gardens. Most pepper plants can take from 60 to 95 days from sowing to harvest, but you may not know that green peppers are actually not fully mature.
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Bean plants are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They germinate quickly under the right conditions and produce flowers and fruit within 50 to 65 days, depending on the variety. If planted too early, though, beans may be slow to germinate or fail to germinate at all. Pay close attention to planting times and seed depth.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月02日
Description: This woody shrub forms canes that are initially erect, but often bend downward to re-root in the ground. These canes actively grow and form leaves during the first year, and develop fruits in the form of drupes during the second year, afterwhich they die down. The canes are about 3-6' tall; they are green where there is new growth at the tips, otherwise they are brown or reddish brown with stout prickles that are straight or somewhat curved. The alternate leaves are usually trifoliate or palmately compound; they have long petioles. The leaflets are up to 4" long and 3" across; they are up to twice as long as wide. A typical leaflet is usually ovate with coarse, doubly serrate margins; it may have a few scattered white hairs on the upper surface, while the lower surface is light green and pubescent.
The canes develop racemes with about 12 white flowers; these racemes are much longer than they are wide. There are conspicuous glandular-tipped hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of the inflorescence. A flower has 5 white petals and 5 green sepals with pointed tips; this flower is about ¾-1" across. The petals are longer than the sepals, rather rounded, and often wrinkly. In the center of each flower, are numerous stamens with yellow anthers surrounding a green reproductive structure with a prickly appearance. The flowers bloom during late spring or early summer for a month; there is little or no floral fragrance. The drupes develop later in the summer; they are about ¾" long and 1/3" across, although their size varies with moisture levels. The drupes are initially white or green, but eventually turn red, finally becoming almost black. They are seedy and have a sweet flavor when fully ripened. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant often forms loose colonies vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and mesic conditions; some drought is tolerated, although this can reduce the size of the drupes. Growth is best in rich fertile soil; a clay-loam or rocky soil is also acceptable. This plant is easy to grow from transplants or cuttings of young growth. It can become aggressive and be difficult to eliminate; the use of herbicides may be required on some occasions.
Range & Habitat: The native Common Blackberry occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is common in most areas of central and northern Illinois, and somewhat less common in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry prairie edges along woodlands, thickets, open woodlands, savannas, woodland meadows, limestone glades, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, and abandoned pastures. This plant favors disturbed, burned-over areas in and around woodlands; it is one of the shrubby invaders of prairies.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued and short-tongued bees. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, Little Carpenter bees, Nomadine Cuckoo bees, Mason bees, Green Metallic bees and other Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. Other visitors of the flowers include wasps, flies, small to medium-sized butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Many of the flies and beetles feed on pollen and are not very effective at pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Satyrium liparops strigosum (Striped Hairstreak) and several species of moths feed on the Common Blackberry (see Moth Table). Also, various upland gamebirds, songbirds, and mammals feed on the fruit, stems, or foliage of this plant (see Wildlife Table). Among the upland gamebirds, the Greater Prairie Chicken, Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Ring-Necked Pheasant have been observed eating the drupes of blackberries. These various animals help to distribute the seeds far and wide. The Common Blackberry provides some shelter and shrubby protection to various ground-nesting birds and small mammals, such as the Cottontail Rabbit. In general, the ecological value of blackberries is very high.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Occasionally, blackberries (Rubus spp.) are found along the edges of prairies. It can be difficult to tell the different species apart. This is one of the more common blackberries in Illinois. The fruits of Common Blackberry tend to be a bit larger and more elongated than those of other blackberries, and they usually have an excellent flavor. This blackberry is distinguished from other blackberries by the numerous glandular hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of its elongated racemes of flowers. Furthermore, its mature leaflets are usually no more than twice as long as they are wide. These two characteristics distinguish the Common Blackberry from other Rubus spp. in Illinois.
The canes develop racemes with about 12 white flowers; these racemes are much longer than they are wide. There are conspicuous glandular-tipped hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of the inflorescence. A flower has 5 white petals and 5 green sepals with pointed tips; this flower is about ¾-1" across. The petals are longer than the sepals, rather rounded, and often wrinkly. In the center of each flower, are numerous stamens with yellow anthers surrounding a green reproductive structure with a prickly appearance. The flowers bloom during late spring or early summer for a month; there is little or no floral fragrance. The drupes develop later in the summer; they are about ¾" long and 1/3" across, although their size varies with moisture levels. The drupes are initially white or green, but eventually turn red, finally becoming almost black. They are seedy and have a sweet flavor when fully ripened. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant often forms loose colonies vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and mesic conditions; some drought is tolerated, although this can reduce the size of the drupes. Growth is best in rich fertile soil; a clay-loam or rocky soil is also acceptable. This plant is easy to grow from transplants or cuttings of young growth. It can become aggressive and be difficult to eliminate; the use of herbicides may be required on some occasions.
Range & Habitat: The native Common Blackberry occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is common in most areas of central and northern Illinois, and somewhat less common in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry prairie edges along woodlands, thickets, open woodlands, savannas, woodland meadows, limestone glades, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, and abandoned pastures. This plant favors disturbed, burned-over areas in and around woodlands; it is one of the shrubby invaders of prairies.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued and short-tongued bees. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, Little Carpenter bees, Nomadine Cuckoo bees, Mason bees, Green Metallic bees and other Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. Other visitors of the flowers include wasps, flies, small to medium-sized butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Many of the flies and beetles feed on pollen and are not very effective at pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Satyrium liparops strigosum (Striped Hairstreak) and several species of moths feed on the Common Blackberry (see Moth Table). Also, various upland gamebirds, songbirds, and mammals feed on the fruit, stems, or foliage of this plant (see Wildlife Table). Among the upland gamebirds, the Greater Prairie Chicken, Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Ring-Necked Pheasant have been observed eating the drupes of blackberries. These various animals help to distribute the seeds far and wide. The Common Blackberry provides some shelter and shrubby protection to various ground-nesting birds and small mammals, such as the Cottontail Rabbit. In general, the ecological value of blackberries is very high.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Occasionally, blackberries (Rubus spp.) are found along the edges of prairies. It can be difficult to tell the different species apart. This is one of the more common blackberries in Illinois. The fruits of Common Blackberry tend to be a bit larger and more elongated than those of other blackberries, and they usually have an excellent flavor. This blackberry is distinguished from other blackberries by the numerous glandular hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of its elongated racemes of flowers. Furthermore, its mature leaflets are usually no more than twice as long as they are wide. These two characteristics distinguish the Common Blackberry from other Rubus spp. in Illinois.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Gardeners have long known that some plants seem to grow better when grouped together, while others seem to conflict. Companion planting is a gardening technique that emphasizes plant compatibility; for instance, climbing vines and tall plants, such as tomatoes and corn, work well when paired with low-growing crops, such as beets and cucumbers, since they do not compete with each other for space.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Closely related to broccoli, cauliflower grows best in cool weather and is easily damaged by the heat of summer. Generally planted for spring and fall harvests, this vegetable can be tricky to grow thanks to tough soil requirements and tight temperature ranges. All cauliflower plants should at least be started indoors, and you can continue to grow them indoors with the right type of container.
Starting Seeds
Because cauliflower must be harvested before the summer heat sets in, you have to start seeds indoors during winter. Sow seeds in small planting pots or seed trays at least 6 to 10 weeks before the final predicted frost date for your area. Final frost is generally in February or March, so you will begin planting in December or January. Plant in fast-draining soil mix, keep the soil consistently moist and store the seeds at or very near 45 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the seeds to germinate. You should see small sprouts coming up from the seeds within two to three weeks of planting.
Container Growing
If you intend to keep cauliflower indoors, you will need to transplant the young seedlings into larger containers. Use containers that are at least 8 inches deep. The width of the container varies by the number of cauliflower plants you want to grow in a single container. Each head of cauliflower needs at least 18 inches on all sides to grow to full size. Use quick-draining potting soil and a container that features drainage holes. If you want to create your own growing container, such as from an old storage tub, you can drill 1/4-inch diameter holes along the bottom and sides (1 inch from the bottom) of the container to create your own drainage holes.
Indoor Care
Transplant the seedlings into the container about six weeks after planting when the seedlings have at least four good, strong leaves. Plant one of the seedlings at the direct center of the container, and plant each plant at least 18 inches removed from the first and from each other. Maintain temperature around the cauliflower between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit; temperature variations will slow or stunt growth. Keep the soil consistently moist. After about a month, add aged manure to the soil to feed the plant, encouraging growth. Cauliflower is ready for harvest 70 to 120 days after seeding.
Growing Indoors for Fall Harvest
If you will grow your cauliflower indoors only and control temperature, soil and watering, you can theoretically plant at any time for a harvest at any time of year. In general, a fall harvest requires planting in the summer, which does not always result in healthy plants thanks to warm weather. However, as long as you can maintain the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit temperature range, plant cauliflower anytime of year for indoor growing.
Starting Seeds
Because cauliflower must be harvested before the summer heat sets in, you have to start seeds indoors during winter. Sow seeds in small planting pots or seed trays at least 6 to 10 weeks before the final predicted frost date for your area. Final frost is generally in February or March, so you will begin planting in December or January. Plant in fast-draining soil mix, keep the soil consistently moist and store the seeds at or very near 45 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the seeds to germinate. You should see small sprouts coming up from the seeds within two to three weeks of planting.
Container Growing
If you intend to keep cauliflower indoors, you will need to transplant the young seedlings into larger containers. Use containers that are at least 8 inches deep. The width of the container varies by the number of cauliflower plants you want to grow in a single container. Each head of cauliflower needs at least 18 inches on all sides to grow to full size. Use quick-draining potting soil and a container that features drainage holes. If you want to create your own growing container, such as from an old storage tub, you can drill 1/4-inch diameter holes along the bottom and sides (1 inch from the bottom) of the container to create your own drainage holes.
Indoor Care
Transplant the seedlings into the container about six weeks after planting when the seedlings have at least four good, strong leaves. Plant one of the seedlings at the direct center of the container, and plant each plant at least 18 inches removed from the first and from each other. Maintain temperature around the cauliflower between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit; temperature variations will slow or stunt growth. Keep the soil consistently moist. After about a month, add aged manure to the soil to feed the plant, encouraging growth. Cauliflower is ready for harvest 70 to 120 days after seeding.
Growing Indoors for Fall Harvest
If you will grow your cauliflower indoors only and control temperature, soil and watering, you can theoretically plant at any time for a harvest at any time of year. In general, a fall harvest requires planting in the summer, which does not always result in healthy plants thanks to warm weather. However, as long as you can maintain the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit temperature range, plant cauliflower anytime of year for indoor growing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
In addition to proper fertilizing and watering techniques, onion variety selection is an important factor in growing large onions. Long-day onions grow well in Northern regions, while short-day onions produce large bulbs in the South. The number and size of the leaves at maturity predicts how large the onions will be. More leaves means larger onions.
Before Planting
Before planting onion transplants or sets, amend the soil with 3 inches of compost, which improves soil texture and provides some slow-release nutrients. Add 1/2 cup balanced fertilizer per 10 feet of row and till the amendments to a depth of 8 inches. Use 1/2 cup super phosphate fertilizer instead of balanced fertilizer if planting onion seed. Super phosphate acts as a starter fertilizer, encouraging strong, early roots.
Growing Season
Onions need a steady supply of nitrogen to form large bulbs. Side dress growing plants in early and midsummer with 1/2 cup nitrogen-based fertilizer. Use ammonium sulfate if your soil is alkaline because this fertilizer lowers the pH slightly. Ammonium nitrate works well for gardens with acidic soil.
Organic Options
Spread two or three shovelfuls of compost among the onions instead of fertilizer and dig it lightly into the soil. Take care not to nick the bulbs with the shovel. Read package labels carefully and choose a high-quality compost made from manure and composted vegetable material. Avoid composts that contain biosolids or sludge in the vegetable garden.
Considerations
Don't apply fertilizer after midsummer. Late applications of fertilizer encourage new, soft growth and the onions won't keep as well. In addition to adequate fertilizer, onions need evenly moist soil to grow large. Mulch the ground with untreated grass clippings to conserve moisture. Spread 1/4 inch grass clippings over the soil each week, allowing the clippings to dry before adding more.
Before Planting
Before planting onion transplants or sets, amend the soil with 3 inches of compost, which improves soil texture and provides some slow-release nutrients. Add 1/2 cup balanced fertilizer per 10 feet of row and till the amendments to a depth of 8 inches. Use 1/2 cup super phosphate fertilizer instead of balanced fertilizer if planting onion seed. Super phosphate acts as a starter fertilizer, encouraging strong, early roots.
Growing Season
Onions need a steady supply of nitrogen to form large bulbs. Side dress growing plants in early and midsummer with 1/2 cup nitrogen-based fertilizer. Use ammonium sulfate if your soil is alkaline because this fertilizer lowers the pH slightly. Ammonium nitrate works well for gardens with acidic soil.
Organic Options
Spread two or three shovelfuls of compost among the onions instead of fertilizer and dig it lightly into the soil. Take care not to nick the bulbs with the shovel. Read package labels carefully and choose a high-quality compost made from manure and composted vegetable material. Avoid composts that contain biosolids or sludge in the vegetable garden.
Considerations
Don't apply fertilizer after midsummer. Late applications of fertilizer encourage new, soft growth and the onions won't keep as well. In addition to adequate fertilizer, onions need evenly moist soil to grow large. Mulch the ground with untreated grass clippings to conserve moisture. Spread 1/4 inch grass clippings over the soil each week, allowing the clippings to dry before adding more.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Many vegetables make good home crops, and the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus) is one of the best. Usually quite productive and easy to grow, a failing cucumber plant can leave you wondering if your green thumb has turned brown. Sometimes, however, cucumbers develop but fail to turn green or start out green only to become orange or yellow. Yellowing cucumbers might signal a problem but they are sometimes a natural occurrence. Knowing the difference is the first step, followed by making some changes to prevent abnormal yellowing.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
It is entertaining to watch a cucumber (Cucumis sativus) grow through its stages from tiny vine to full-size plant with edible fruits. As the soil temperature reaches the 70 degree Fahrenheit range, it is time to plant cucumber, one of the most popular vegetables in the Cucurbitaceae family of plants. Producing fruits used for pickling, slicing or eating fresh off the vine, cucumber is a simple vegetable to grow in a home garden.
Seed Sowing and Seedling Emergence
The seeds of vining cucumber varieties such as 'Boston Pickling' and 'Lemon Cucumber' are sown either four to five seeds per hill of soil or 2 to 3 feet apart in a straight row. Seed germination, or sprouting, occurs fairly fast. Watch for the two-leaved seedlings to emerge above the soil three to 10 days after sowing the seeds.
A seedling's first two leaves are called cotyledon and are round with smooth edges. The next leaves are true leaves with the characteristic cucumber heart-shape and sharp-edged margins.
The soil should remain moist at all times as the seedlings begin to grow. To test for moistness, put your finger in the soil. It should not be dry beyond the first finger joint. As seedlings reach 4 inches in height, remove some of them so the remaining ones are 1 ½ feet apart.
Each bush variety of cucumber requires 2 to 3 square feet of space, and the vine type can reach to 6 feet in height. Trellis systems or tomato cages can be used to support plants that are the vine type.
Plant cucumber seeds every two to three weeks until three months before your area's first average annual frost date to have a continuous harvest of cucumber fruits as summer progresses.
Flowering and Pollination
Cucumbers produce two kinds of bright, golden-yellow flowers: male and female. Male flowers emerge first but do not produce fruits and fall off after pollination is complete. Female flowers emerge within one to two weeks.
Cucumber plants are not self-pollinating; they require bees or other pollinators to carry their pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Insecticides applied at cucumbers' flower stage of growth can kill the pollinators, interfering with the process of pollination.
Fruiting and Harvest
After female cucumber flowers have been pollinated, they swell at their bases and begin to develop into fruits. Cucumber fruits usually can be harvested 50 to 70 days after the seeds were sown, depending on the variety and weather conditions.
Cucumber varieties used for pickling are ready to harvest when the fruits reach 3 to 4 inches in length. The harvest lasts seven to 10 days for each of those plants. The longer fruits of varieties used for slicing are ready for harvest when they are 7 to 8 inches long, and their harvest time may continue for as long as four to six weeks.
At peak harvest time, cucumber fruits should be picked every two days. Cucumber plants produce more fruits when the fruits are picked regularly. Fruits left on the vines become bitter and their skins tough.
A mature cucumber plant produces about 5 pounds of fruits, or about 10 fruits that are each 6 ounces. Heirloom varieties, however, produce about 2 to 3 pounds of fruits per plant.
Post-Harvest
When harvest is complete, pull the cucumber vines or bushes out of the soil, and put them into the compost bin or pile. Long vines can be cut into 1-to 2-foot lengths for speedier decomposition. Vines or bushes left on the ground to decompose may attract pests or diseases to the garden.
Seed Sowing and Seedling Emergence
The seeds of vining cucumber varieties such as 'Boston Pickling' and 'Lemon Cucumber' are sown either four to five seeds per hill of soil or 2 to 3 feet apart in a straight row. Seed germination, or sprouting, occurs fairly fast. Watch for the two-leaved seedlings to emerge above the soil three to 10 days after sowing the seeds.
A seedling's first two leaves are called cotyledon and are round with smooth edges. The next leaves are true leaves with the characteristic cucumber heart-shape and sharp-edged margins.
The soil should remain moist at all times as the seedlings begin to grow. To test for moistness, put your finger in the soil. It should not be dry beyond the first finger joint. As seedlings reach 4 inches in height, remove some of them so the remaining ones are 1 ½ feet apart.
Each bush variety of cucumber requires 2 to 3 square feet of space, and the vine type can reach to 6 feet in height. Trellis systems or tomato cages can be used to support plants that are the vine type.
Plant cucumber seeds every two to three weeks until three months before your area's first average annual frost date to have a continuous harvest of cucumber fruits as summer progresses.
Flowering and Pollination
Cucumbers produce two kinds of bright, golden-yellow flowers: male and female. Male flowers emerge first but do not produce fruits and fall off after pollination is complete. Female flowers emerge within one to two weeks.
Cucumber plants are not self-pollinating; they require bees or other pollinators to carry their pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Insecticides applied at cucumbers' flower stage of growth can kill the pollinators, interfering with the process of pollination.
Fruiting and Harvest
After female cucumber flowers have been pollinated, they swell at their bases and begin to develop into fruits. Cucumber fruits usually can be harvested 50 to 70 days after the seeds were sown, depending on the variety and weather conditions.
Cucumber varieties used for pickling are ready to harvest when the fruits reach 3 to 4 inches in length. The harvest lasts seven to 10 days for each of those plants. The longer fruits of varieties used for slicing are ready for harvest when they are 7 to 8 inches long, and their harvest time may continue for as long as four to six weeks.
At peak harvest time, cucumber fruits should be picked every two days. Cucumber plants produce more fruits when the fruits are picked regularly. Fruits left on the vines become bitter and their skins tough.
A mature cucumber plant produces about 5 pounds of fruits, or about 10 fruits that are each 6 ounces. Heirloom varieties, however, produce about 2 to 3 pounds of fruits per plant.
Post-Harvest
When harvest is complete, pull the cucumber vines or bushes out of the soil, and put them into the compost bin or pile. Long vines can be cut into 1-to 2-foot lengths for speedier decomposition. Vines or bushes left on the ground to decompose may attract pests or diseases to the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Peppers are related to tomatoes and tomatillos and have similar structures and form. The plants grow 18 to 24 inches high, depending on the variety, and have one strong central stem with horizontal branches that produce fruit and flowers. A strong, deep root system is critical for good fruit production.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Habanero peppers are one of the world's hottest peppers. They take a while to ripen after you transplant them or grow them from seeds. The peppers turn from green to red or orange when they ripen. Habanero peppers thrive in hot weather and acidic soil. The peppers do not require much water. In fact, too much water can cause the produce to have a bitter flavor. While the peppers are very hot in flavor, they are also rich in vitamin C. You can create salsa with the peppers or add them to your favorite dish to add a spicy flavor.
Hunker Source Material - Midcentury Design
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Habanero Care
Grow the peppers when the threat of frost passes, because they do not tolerate the frost. Habanero plants require temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit before they produce peppers. Habaneros can often tolerate higher temperatures during the daytime. Remove small flowers until the plants become established if you are growing them from transplants. Water the plants only once a week to stress the plants to produce the hottest peppers. Watering the plants more often will create milder peppers.
Harvest Time
Inspect the habanero peppers between 100 to 120 days after you plant them. The time it takes for the peppers to ripen will depend on sunlight, water and soil conditions. Habanero peppers will remain green when they sprout on the plants, but they will change in color when it gets closer to harvest time. Check on the habanero peppers daily to determine when they are ready for harvesting.
Harvest Signs
Habanero peppers will transform from green to red or orange in color. You will no longer notice any green on the peppers when they ripen completely. Inspect the size of the habanero peppers. Peppers that are three-quarters inch or larger in diameter are ready for harvest because they have reached the desired size. Harvest the habanero peppers as they ripen so that the plant can dedicate its energy into producing new peppers.
Harvest Tips
Wear gloves when handling the habanero peppers to prevent irritation to your skin or eyes. Cut the habanero peppers from the plants with pruning shears. Cut the peppers off at the stem, leaving up to an inch of the stem attached to the peppers. Avoid pulling or tearing the peppers from the plant, because you can damage it. Store the harvested peppers in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer. Wash the habanero peppers off with cool water before you use them.
Hunker Source Material - Midcentury Design
00:00
Habanero Care
Grow the peppers when the threat of frost passes, because they do not tolerate the frost. Habanero plants require temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit before they produce peppers. Habaneros can often tolerate higher temperatures during the daytime. Remove small flowers until the plants become established if you are growing them from transplants. Water the plants only once a week to stress the plants to produce the hottest peppers. Watering the plants more often will create milder peppers.
Harvest Time
Inspect the habanero peppers between 100 to 120 days after you plant them. The time it takes for the peppers to ripen will depend on sunlight, water and soil conditions. Habanero peppers will remain green when they sprout on the plants, but they will change in color when it gets closer to harvest time. Check on the habanero peppers daily to determine when they are ready for harvesting.
Harvest Signs
Habanero peppers will transform from green to red or orange in color. You will no longer notice any green on the peppers when they ripen completely. Inspect the size of the habanero peppers. Peppers that are three-quarters inch or larger in diameter are ready for harvest because they have reached the desired size. Harvest the habanero peppers as they ripen so that the plant can dedicate its energy into producing new peppers.
Harvest Tips
Wear gloves when handling the habanero peppers to prevent irritation to your skin or eyes. Cut the habanero peppers from the plants with pruning shears. Cut the peppers off at the stem, leaving up to an inch of the stem attached to the peppers. Avoid pulling or tearing the peppers from the plant, because you can damage it. Store the harvested peppers in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer. Wash the habanero peppers off with cool water before you use them.
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