文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes come in varieties with different grow habits. The fruits can be grown on plants with a determinate, indeterminate and even semi-determinate manner. The manner of growth will determine if and how you will be pruning the plants. Pruning tomatoes is not necessary, but may increase the size of fruit marginally and will make the plants easier to manage. Pruning usually means removal of suckers and occasionally pinching back to enhance compact growth and stem strength. The difference between determinate and indeterminate ultimately boils down to the length of harvest and the time of harvest. Determinates produce fruit first, usually in a two- to three-week period, while indeterminate varieties will produce fruit for a longer period, but near the end of the summer.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
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成长记
akbrown
2017年11月08日
he’s turning purple! day 3 under grow light.
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1
Lucky Coyote：@akbrown Oh, thank you so much
akbrown：@Lucky Coyote very well!!
Lucky Coyote：do grow lights work well for your succulents?
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Central Florida has a warm, balmy climate with mild winters and sandy soils. While these may not seem ideal for growing blueberries (Vaccinium spp.), some varieties grow successfully in the area. Small adjustments in soil and care can lead to large blueberry yields in Florida's central region.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Many inexperienced gardeners who are attempting to grow their own tomatoes for the first time provide too much water for the tomato plants. Signs of excessive water include wilting leaves, which novice gardeners often misinterpret as an indication that the plants require more water rather than less. Correcting your approach to watering and providing overly hydrated tomato plants with consistent, careful treatment thereafter might yet produce a good crop of tomatoes.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is situated in the Sonoran Desert. Growing blueberries in Phoenix can be tricky because of its hot, dry climate. However, several steps can help you to grow fully ripened fruits that carry a sweet taste and aroma not easily found in a grocery store. Even in a desert environment such as Phoenix, blueberry plants can grow to 3 feet to 4 feet tall and 20 inches wide or larger.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
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成长记
oh-0kay
2017年11月04日
— 3 week update —
the end of the plant looks
as if if it might grow some
roots in the following weeks !
the end of the plant looks
as if if it might grow some
roots in the following weeks !
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberries are members of the heath family and many varieties grow throughout the United States. The bushes not only provide sweet fruit when ripe, but the shrubs themselves are attractive and hardy. If your blueberry bush is suffering, there are several factors to consider to make sure that the bush is receiving the proper care and maintenance. With a few adjustments to its care, you may be able to revive the bush.
Step 1
Test the pH in the soil surrounding the blueberry bush. You can get a testing kit from a gardening store or from a local university extension. Blueberries require a low pH, lower than most other small fruits and if the pH is too high, you will need to make adjustments to the soil. Ideally, the pH should be around 4.8. If the pH test results are above that range, incorporate the recommended amount of elemental sulfur into the soil.
Step 2
Evaluate the amount of water that your blueberries are receiving. Your bushes may be suffering from a lack of water, especially during times of drought. Blueberries need a lot of water and should be watered to 2 inches into the soil once every three days in the summer. But be cautious as well, because if you water more than once every three days, your blueberries might be getting too much water, which could cause root rot.
Step 3
Prune the bush once each fall. You should cut off approximately two-thirds of the top growth on bare-root plants, but only remove half of the plant if you're growing it inside. Also, remove any of the remaining rounded buds and all but two or three of the sturdiest upright shoots.
Step 4
Fertilize the blueberry bush only if the soil test results indicated that there is a lack of nutrients in the soil. If the soil is well-balanced and nutrient-rich, then don't ever add fertilizer, as fertilizer can damage and stunt blueberries. If you have been using fertilizer regularly, discontinue use, which could be enough to help revive the bush.
Step 5
Add 3 inches of organic mulch around the bush. This will help the bush maintain moisture and discourage weed growth.
Step 6
Transplant the bush if it is older than 2 years and if the planting location does not provide at least some afternoon shade. You also want to replant if the soil does not drain well. Amend with organics, such as peat moss, to allow better draining. Do not transplant unless the bush is at least 2 years old and keep its roots moist the entire time as you are moving it.
Step 1
Test the pH in the soil surrounding the blueberry bush. You can get a testing kit from a gardening store or from a local university extension. Blueberries require a low pH, lower than most other small fruits and if the pH is too high, you will need to make adjustments to the soil. Ideally, the pH should be around 4.8. If the pH test results are above that range, incorporate the recommended amount of elemental sulfur into the soil.
Step 2
Evaluate the amount of water that your blueberries are receiving. Your bushes may be suffering from a lack of water, especially during times of drought. Blueberries need a lot of water and should be watered to 2 inches into the soil once every three days in the summer. But be cautious as well, because if you water more than once every three days, your blueberries might be getting too much water, which could cause root rot.
Step 3
Prune the bush once each fall. You should cut off approximately two-thirds of the top growth on bare-root plants, but only remove half of the plant if you're growing it inside. Also, remove any of the remaining rounded buds and all but two or three of the sturdiest upright shoots.
Step 4
Fertilize the blueberry bush only if the soil test results indicated that there is a lack of nutrients in the soil. If the soil is well-balanced and nutrient-rich, then don't ever add fertilizer, as fertilizer can damage and stunt blueberries. If you have been using fertilizer regularly, discontinue use, which could be enough to help revive the bush.
Step 5
Add 3 inches of organic mulch around the bush. This will help the bush maintain moisture and discourage weed growth.
Step 6
Transplant the bush if it is older than 2 years and if the planting location does not provide at least some afternoon shade. You also want to replant if the soil does not drain well. Amend with organics, such as peat moss, to allow better draining. Do not transplant unless the bush is at least 2 years old and keep its roots moist the entire time as you are moving it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Both blueberries and black currants are small, dark-colored berries that grow in dense clusters on the branches of their bushes. The similarities end there, however -- the two types of plants are quite different in both their growth preferences and the flavor of their berries.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberry bushes are perennial, woody plants offering both ornamental foliage and edible fruit, making them increasingly popular in home landscapes, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. They can be challenging to grow, however. When your plant produces small blueberries, it may be due to one or more reasons, including variety, maturity and care.
Features
Native to the United States, blueberries traditionally grow commercially in cool zones such as the Pacific Northwest and north-central regions. Thanks to new cultivars, blueberries now grow in temperate climates from Florida to California. Blueberry varieties range from large-fruit blueberries such as "Chandler" to small-fruit such as "Rubel." Size is no indicator of flavor, as small berries often have rich taste suited to baking pies. Your blueberries may be small because the bush is a small-fruit bush. Consider planting a companion blueberry of a different variety as the cross-pollination frequently results in larger fruit on your original bush.
Maturity
Blueberry bushes mature slowly. A blueberry bush begins fruiting at one or two years, but the bush is not fully productive until it is six to eight years old. Young bushes yield small fruit. Rub off the flowers if your bush is young; flowers take nutrition away from the growing bush. While the plant is young, the vegetative growth helps the bush develop strong canes and roots but flowering and fruit production hinder growth, resulting in a small bush and sparse fruit.
Pruning
Blueberries produce fruit on new and vigorous wood. As the bush matures at five years, look for old and weak canes. Prune these off at ground level in late winter or early spring. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the wood, the larger the fruit. Old and weak wood yields small berries. As blueberries fruit on one-year canes, keep the strongest mature canes and two or three new canes that will yield next year's crop.
Flowers
Flowers mature into blueberries, but too many flowers on mature bushes result in small berries. Remove at least half the flowers and tiny fruit so that the remaining fruit is large and juicy. Thin the flowers by rubbing them off with your fingers or gloves. Another method is pruning the flowering shrub. Often the weak and stunted twigs have the most flowers and fewest leaves. Prune these twigs and flowers near the end of flowering season. This reduces strain on the canes and encourages fruit production, larger fruit and healthier plants.
Water
Blueberry plants are thirsty. They have shallow roots and need a minimum of 1 to 2 inches water per week in spring and summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation so that water does not splash on the foliage and encourage disease. Water deprivation results in small berries and sparse production.
Features
Native to the United States, blueberries traditionally grow commercially in cool zones such as the Pacific Northwest and north-central regions. Thanks to new cultivars, blueberries now grow in temperate climates from Florida to California. Blueberry varieties range from large-fruit blueberries such as "Chandler" to small-fruit such as "Rubel." Size is no indicator of flavor, as small berries often have rich taste suited to baking pies. Your blueberries may be small because the bush is a small-fruit bush. Consider planting a companion blueberry of a different variety as the cross-pollination frequently results in larger fruit on your original bush.
Maturity
Blueberry bushes mature slowly. A blueberry bush begins fruiting at one or two years, but the bush is not fully productive until it is six to eight years old. Young bushes yield small fruit. Rub off the flowers if your bush is young; flowers take nutrition away from the growing bush. While the plant is young, the vegetative growth helps the bush develop strong canes and roots but flowering and fruit production hinder growth, resulting in a small bush and sparse fruit.
Pruning
Blueberries produce fruit on new and vigorous wood. As the bush matures at five years, look for old and weak canes. Prune these off at ground level in late winter or early spring. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the wood, the larger the fruit. Old and weak wood yields small berries. As blueberries fruit on one-year canes, keep the strongest mature canes and two or three new canes that will yield next year's crop.
Flowers
Flowers mature into blueberries, but too many flowers on mature bushes result in small berries. Remove at least half the flowers and tiny fruit so that the remaining fruit is large and juicy. Thin the flowers by rubbing them off with your fingers or gloves. Another method is pruning the flowering shrub. Often the weak and stunted twigs have the most flowers and fewest leaves. Prune these twigs and flowers near the end of flowering season. This reduces strain on the canes and encourages fruit production, larger fruit and healthier plants.
Water
Blueberry plants are thirsty. They have shallow roots and need a minimum of 1 to 2 inches water per week in spring and summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation so that water does not splash on the foliage and encourage disease. Water deprivation results in small berries and sparse production.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月03日
How long it takes for garlic (Allium sativum) to grow and mature depends on when you plant the cloves. Garlic grows best when it experiences a period of chilling. The best time for planting garlic is fall, and fall-planted garlic matures in about eight months. Garlic can also be planted in spring, and spring-planted garlic takes less than eight months to mature, but it may not form bulbs. Garlic grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.
Growing Garlic
A spot in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil provide the best growing conditions for garlic. Choose a part of the garden that gets at least eight hours of sun each day. Garlic tolerates alkaline soil, but it prefers acidic soil that's slightly dry and rich in organic matter. Don't grow garlic in heavy, wet soil because this leads to rot.
Space garlic cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 15 to 24 inches apart. Don't grow garlic on a site where it grew during the past three years, to help prevent disease problems.
Watering Garlic
Keeping garlic well-watered and mulched through the growing season provides the best bulbs. Mulches suppress weeds that compete with garlic for water, and also help conserve soil moisture.
Water garlic every eight to 10 days in dry weather, moistening the soil to a depth of 2 feet. Spread a 2-inch layer of garden compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold or other organic matter around the garlic plants, but don't allow the mulch to touch the garlic plants' leaves.
Applying Fertilizer
Fall-planted garlic needs a high-nitrogen fertilizer in spring, and garlic planted in fall or spring needs fertilizer in early summer. Ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal supplies garlic nutrient needs.
Put on gloves, and evenly sprinkle ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot over a fall-planted garlic bed when the garlic begins actively growing in spring. Water the granules into the soil. Apply the fertilizer at the same rate to fall-planted and spring-planted garlic two to three months later, in early summer. Manufacturers' instructions vary among products, so read the fertilizer label and follow the instructions.
Harvesting and Curing Garlic
Curing garlic after harvest helps prevent it from spoiling in storage. Garlic is ready for harvesting when the bulbs contain well-developed cloves and the bulb skin is thick, dry and papery. Other signs of maturity include brown leaves and only six to eight green leaves remaining on each plant. Don't wait longer than two weeks after all the leaves have withered to harvest garlic, because the bulbs deteriorate in the soil. Push a garden fork into the soil 2 inches from the base of the plant, and lever the bulb out of the soil.
Spread garlic bulbs, with the leaves attached, in a single layer in a warm, shady, dry, airy place. Don't allow the bulbs to touch. After three or four days the bulbs and leaves will be dried out and ready for storage. Store garlic in a dry, shady place at temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Growing Garlic
A spot in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil provide the best growing conditions for garlic. Choose a part of the garden that gets at least eight hours of sun each day. Garlic tolerates alkaline soil, but it prefers acidic soil that's slightly dry and rich in organic matter. Don't grow garlic in heavy, wet soil because this leads to rot.
Space garlic cloves 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 15 to 24 inches apart. Don't grow garlic on a site where it grew during the past three years, to help prevent disease problems.
Watering Garlic
Keeping garlic well-watered and mulched through the growing season provides the best bulbs. Mulches suppress weeds that compete with garlic for water, and also help conserve soil moisture.
Water garlic every eight to 10 days in dry weather, moistening the soil to a depth of 2 feet. Spread a 2-inch layer of garden compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold or other organic matter around the garlic plants, but don't allow the mulch to touch the garlic plants' leaves.
Applying Fertilizer
Fall-planted garlic needs a high-nitrogen fertilizer in spring, and garlic planted in fall or spring needs fertilizer in early summer. Ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal supplies garlic nutrient needs.
Put on gloves, and evenly sprinkle ready-to-use 12-0-0 blood meal at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot over a fall-planted garlic bed when the garlic begins actively growing in spring. Water the granules into the soil. Apply the fertilizer at the same rate to fall-planted and spring-planted garlic two to three months later, in early summer. Manufacturers' instructions vary among products, so read the fertilizer label and follow the instructions.
Harvesting and Curing Garlic
Curing garlic after harvest helps prevent it from spoiling in storage. Garlic is ready for harvesting when the bulbs contain well-developed cloves and the bulb skin is thick, dry and papery. Other signs of maturity include brown leaves and only six to eight green leaves remaining on each plant. Don't wait longer than two weeks after all the leaves have withered to harvest garlic, because the bulbs deteriorate in the soil. Push a garden fork into the soil 2 inches from the base of the plant, and lever the bulb out of the soil.
Spread garlic bulbs, with the leaves attached, in a single layer in a warm, shady, dry, airy place. Don't allow the bulbs to touch. After three or four days the bulbs and leaves will be dried out and ready for storage. Store garlic in a dry, shady place at temperatures between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月02日
Perennial strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) are perennials that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10. They grow best and accept plant nutrients in soil that has a pH from 5.5 to 6.
Strawberry types are divided among June-bearing varieties that yield one large crop in June, day-neutral varieties that yield strawberries throughout the growing season, and everbearing varieties that yield a June crop and one in early autumn. All three types are fertilized the same way at the start of the growing season. Day-neutral and everbearing have added needs during the summer.
Soil Amendments
More than three-fourths of strawberry roots are found in the top six inches of soil. If you have your soil tested and find minerals that are below the optimal level, work soil amendments into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil six months to one year before you plant your strawberries.
If your soil needs potassium, apply 1 1/2 cups of potassium chloride, 0-0-60, or potassium sulfate, 0-0-43, per 100 square feet of strawberry growing soil. Potassium sulfate is acceptable for organic gardeners. Mixing 14 cups of greensand to each 100 square feet is also acceptable for organic potassium. Greensand, mined from mineral deposits originally on the ocean floor, contains 3 percent potassium along with iron, magnesium, silica and other trace minerals.
If your soil lacks phosphorus, combine 2 1/2 cups of superphosphate, 0-20-0, or 1 cup of triple superphosphate, 0-46-0 to 100 square feet of soil. For organic phosphorus add 6 cups of bonemeal, 1-11-0, to 100 square feet.
Strawberries commonly suffer from a lack of boron in the soil. If no boron was added in the previous three to four years, mix 3/4 ounce of borax into a gallon of water and shake thoroughly. Spread this over 100 square feet of strawberry planting area, taking care not to apply too much. If you regularly amend your soil with compost, it should contain sufficient organic boron.
Growing Season Fertilizer
Two weeks before you plant strawberries, mix 2 pounds of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Add fertilizer to newly planted strawberries in 6-inch bands on both sides of the rows. Use water-soluble, granular fertilizer and water well after application.
Six to eight weeks after planting, apply 1 pound of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil. If granules land on the strawberry leaves, knock them off with your hand or wash them off.
Adding nitrogen fertilizer in the spring before harvest may increase plant and berry diseases and cause excessive growth of stems and leaves. But if your plants are growing slowly and the leaves are light green, add 1/2 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet of soil.
After harvesting June-bearing strawberries, remove weeds, cut back leaves and thin plants. Then add 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil in 6-inch bands beside the plants. Give the plants at least 1 inch of water per week to avoid salt injury from the fertilizer and to give the strawberries strong, new growth. One inch of water is roughly 6 gallons per square yard.
If your strawberries are growing in soil that has not been allowed to dry out, fertilize them again in late august with 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of soil.
Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to 100 square feet of everbearing and day neutral strawberries in the middle of June and July and at the end of August.
Organic Fertilizers
Organic nutrients for strawberries are best added before they are planted, rather than later.
If you have time, plant oats in the area where you then plow them under a few weeks before you plant strawberries. The decaying oats will add nutrients to the soil.
Early spring is also when you should add 35 pounds of rabbit or poultry manure or 65 pounds of cow manure into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Strawberry types are divided among June-bearing varieties that yield one large crop in June, day-neutral varieties that yield strawberries throughout the growing season, and everbearing varieties that yield a June crop and one in early autumn. All three types are fertilized the same way at the start of the growing season. Day-neutral and everbearing have added needs during the summer.
Soil Amendments
More than three-fourths of strawberry roots are found in the top six inches of soil. If you have your soil tested and find minerals that are below the optimal level, work soil amendments into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil six months to one year before you plant your strawberries.
If your soil needs potassium, apply 1 1/2 cups of potassium chloride, 0-0-60, or potassium sulfate, 0-0-43, per 100 square feet of strawberry growing soil. Potassium sulfate is acceptable for organic gardeners. Mixing 14 cups of greensand to each 100 square feet is also acceptable for organic potassium. Greensand, mined from mineral deposits originally on the ocean floor, contains 3 percent potassium along with iron, magnesium, silica and other trace minerals.
If your soil lacks phosphorus, combine 2 1/2 cups of superphosphate, 0-20-0, or 1 cup of triple superphosphate, 0-46-0 to 100 square feet of soil. For organic phosphorus add 6 cups of bonemeal, 1-11-0, to 100 square feet.
Strawberries commonly suffer from a lack of boron in the soil. If no boron was added in the previous three to four years, mix 3/4 ounce of borax into a gallon of water and shake thoroughly. Spread this over 100 square feet of strawberry planting area, taking care not to apply too much. If you regularly amend your soil with compost, it should contain sufficient organic boron.
Growing Season Fertilizer
Two weeks before you plant strawberries, mix 2 pounds of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Add fertilizer to newly planted strawberries in 6-inch bands on both sides of the rows. Use water-soluble, granular fertilizer and water well after application.
Six to eight weeks after planting, apply 1 pound of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil. If granules land on the strawberry leaves, knock them off with your hand or wash them off.
Adding nitrogen fertilizer in the spring before harvest may increase plant and berry diseases and cause excessive growth of stems and leaves. But if your plants are growing slowly and the leaves are light green, add 1/2 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet of soil.
After harvesting June-bearing strawberries, remove weeds, cut back leaves and thin plants. Then add 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil in 6-inch bands beside the plants. Give the plants at least 1 inch of water per week to avoid salt injury from the fertilizer and to give the strawberries strong, new growth. One inch of water is roughly 6 gallons per square yard.
If your strawberries are growing in soil that has not been allowed to dry out, fertilize them again in late august with 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of soil.
Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to 100 square feet of everbearing and day neutral strawberries in the middle of June and July and at the end of August.
Organic Fertilizers
Organic nutrients for strawberries are best added before they are planted, rather than later.
If you have time, plant oats in the area where you then plow them under a few weeks before you plant strawberries. The decaying oats will add nutrients to the soil.
Early spring is also when you should add 35 pounds of rabbit or poultry manure or 65 pounds of cow manure into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
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