文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum cactus are also called orchid cactus due to their lovely flowers. The flowers turn into a chubby little fruit filled with tiny seeds. Growing Ephiphyllum seeds will take some patience but it is a rewarding endeavor that will give you more of these beautiful epiphytic cacti. Epiphyllum have flat-leaf stems set in disjointed connections. The stems produce brilliantly colored flowers that may span up to nearly 10 inches in diameter but are more commonly an inch or two. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees in their native regions. As houseplants, they prefer a lightly gritty soil with peat moss as an addition.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Maybe you’ve seen dragon fruits for sale at your local grocery store. The red or yellow collection of layered scales looks almost like an exotic artichoke. Inside, however, is a sweet mass of white pulp and tiny, crunchy seeds. If you want to grow dragon fruit at home, you’ll be rewarded not only with fruit, but also with an impressive, branching cactus vine and brilliant, night-blooming flowers. Keep reading to learn how to grow dragon fruit.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Chinese lantern plants (Physallis) have husks that resemble bright orange paper lanterns once dried. Inside each husk is a scarlet fruit, similar in texture but not color to its close relative, the tomatillo. The fleshy fruit surrounds the seeds within. Chinese lanterns are annual plants, so they must be replanted in the garden each year. They readily self-sow themselves, but saving some seed allows you to plant the lanterns exactly where you want them to grow each spring.
Step 1
Pick the lanterns from the plant once the husks have dried completely and turned papery. Peel the husk away from the fruits.
Step 2
Place the fruits in a blender. Add water until the fruits are covered. Place the lid on the blender, then process them on the pulse setting until they are pulverized.
Step 3
Pour the pulverized fruit into a bowl. Add another 1 to 2 cups of water to the mixture and stir to combine.
Step 4
Soak the seeds for two to three days, or until the pulp separates and floats to the top of the water. Pour the water and pulp off the top of the bowl. The viable seeds settle to the bottom.
Step 5
Remove the remaining seeds from the bowl with a slotted spoon. Place them in a mesh sieve and rinse the remaining pulp from them under running water.
Step 6
Spread the seeds out on a paper towel in a well-ventilated area. Dry them for seven days.
Step 7
Store the seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dark place until you are ready to plant them in spring. Label the container with the type of seed and the year harvested.
Step 1
Pick the lanterns from the plant once the husks have dried completely and turned papery. Peel the husk away from the fruits.
Step 2
Place the fruits in a blender. Add water until the fruits are covered. Place the lid on the blender, then process them on the pulse setting until they are pulverized.
Step 3
Pour the pulverized fruit into a bowl. Add another 1 to 2 cups of water to the mixture and stir to combine.
Step 4
Soak the seeds for two to three days, or until the pulp separates and floats to the top of the water. Pour the water and pulp off the top of the bowl. The viable seeds settle to the bottom.
Step 5
Remove the remaining seeds from the bowl with a slotted spoon. Place them in a mesh sieve and rinse the remaining pulp from them under running water.
Step 6
Spread the seeds out on a paper towel in a well-ventilated area. Dry them for seven days.
Step 7
Store the seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dark place until you are ready to plant them in spring. Label the container with the type of seed and the year harvested.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can reproduce both asexually and sexually. Asexual reproduction does not use seeds and generates exact duplicates, or clones, of the parent rose. If you want to create new varieties of roses, you must grow them from seeds instead of utilizing asexual reproduction methods.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Lesco, originally known as Lakeshore Equipment and Supply Co., is a division of John Deere Landscapes. Started in 1962, the founders started by offering turf maintenance equipment and eventually fertilizer and seeds. Now Lesco is known throughout the United States for its quality lawn care products and services for both homeowners and lawn care professionals.
Tall Fescue
A good grass for home lawns, this grass will stay green all year round in a climate with a mild winter. It is also a sturdy grass for playing fields. It has a coarse texture and clumps as it grows. Lesco offers Biltmore, Bravo, Hunter, Kentucky, Magellan, Padre and Stetson Tall Fescue types.
Bluegrass
Bluegrass is the most commonly known type of grass for both home and professional lawns. It is a good cool-season grass and does not need a lot of maintenance. It will go dormant in hot weather but is not recommended for places where the climate is very hot for extended periods of time. Bluegrass is generally not suited to shady areas. Lesco offers a variety of bluegrasses including Kentucky, Blue Velvet, Midnight, Nuglade Kentucky, Supina Supranova and Shamrock.
Annual Ryegrass
Annual ryegrass does not overwinter in cold climates, according to American Lawns. This type of grass grows quickly and is well suited to be a temporary ground cover. It is used most often as a forage plant for animals. Lesco offers one type of annual rye seed.
Perennial Ryegrass
Perennial ryegrass also makes a suitable temporary ground cover. It is often used in warm climates as an overseed to keep a lawn green when summer grasses go dormant. It is a cool season grass not suited to hot climates as more than an annual. It is not drought tolerant and requires a lot of mowing. Lesco offers Greenville, Harbour, Manhattan, Midway, Allsport and Prosport varieties of perennial ryegrass.
Fine Fescue
A fine fescue is, according to Purdue University, a fine-leafed grass used for both sunny and shady areas. It germinates quickly, is easy to establish, but can lose its color quickly in a drought.
Creeping Bentgrass
Creeping bentgrass is used throughout cooler climates for a golf course style lawn. It has a fine texture, is soft and carpet-like, according to the Purdue University Extension. It is also a high-maintenance grass needing constant attention; otherwise, it loses its luster. Creeping bentgrass needs to be mowed and watered frequently and also needs a lot of fertilizer.
Tall Fescue
A good grass for home lawns, this grass will stay green all year round in a climate with a mild winter. It is also a sturdy grass for playing fields. It has a coarse texture and clumps as it grows. Lesco offers Biltmore, Bravo, Hunter, Kentucky, Magellan, Padre and Stetson Tall Fescue types.
Bluegrass
Bluegrass is the most commonly known type of grass for both home and professional lawns. It is a good cool-season grass and does not need a lot of maintenance. It will go dormant in hot weather but is not recommended for places where the climate is very hot for extended periods of time. Bluegrass is generally not suited to shady areas. Lesco offers a variety of bluegrasses including Kentucky, Blue Velvet, Midnight, Nuglade Kentucky, Supina Supranova and Shamrock.
Annual Ryegrass
Annual ryegrass does not overwinter in cold climates, according to American Lawns. This type of grass grows quickly and is well suited to be a temporary ground cover. It is used most often as a forage plant for animals. Lesco offers one type of annual rye seed.
Perennial Ryegrass
Perennial ryegrass also makes a suitable temporary ground cover. It is often used in warm climates as an overseed to keep a lawn green when summer grasses go dormant. It is a cool season grass not suited to hot climates as more than an annual. It is not drought tolerant and requires a lot of mowing. Lesco offers Greenville, Harbour, Manhattan, Midway, Allsport and Prosport varieties of perennial ryegrass.
Fine Fescue
A fine fescue is, according to Purdue University, a fine-leafed grass used for both sunny and shady areas. It germinates quickly, is easy to establish, but can lose its color quickly in a drought.
Creeping Bentgrass
Creeping bentgrass is used throughout cooler climates for a golf course style lawn. It has a fine texture, is soft and carpet-like, according to the Purdue University Extension. It is also a high-maintenance grass needing constant attention; otherwise, it loses its luster. Creeping bentgrass needs to be mowed and watered frequently and also needs a lot of fertilizer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses must be pollinated in order to produce fruit and seeds, although they can also be propagated from stem cuttings. Pollination involves the movement of pollen from one flower to the next, or between the sexual organs of the same flower. Vectors for moving pollen include wind, birds and insects. Gardeners can also pollinate roses by hand, with the proper tools and timing.
Insect Pollination
Bees and butterflies are the primary insect pollinators for many plants, including roses. As a bee takes nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to its legs and body hair. When it moves to the next flower, some of the pollen rubs off and sticks to the female sex organ of the rose, pollinating it. A butterfly has a long proboscis that probes for nectar. As a butterfly climbs through a flower, it collects pollen on its legs and wings, transferring it when it flits to the next flower. Butterflies and bees are most attracted to yellow, fragrant roses.
Bird Pollination
Birds are most attracted to red and orange roses because they see these colors best. Hummingbirds in particular are excellent pollinators. Because they hover as they feed, their wings stir up pollen, moving it from flower to flower. Many other types of birds come to feed on seeds when fruit develops after pollination, and seeds are dispersed in their droppings.
Wind Pollination
Air currents are another important pollinator for roses. Space rosebushes so that they have plenty of ventilation between them. Overcrowding can lead to disease and insect problems, and it can also decrease pollination if air can't move freely. A breeze can pick up releasing pollen, dispersing it over a wide area. Some of it can't help but land on the sticky surfaces where pollination occurs.
Artificial Pollination
Roses can also be pollinated and hybridized by human hands. When the rose is fully open, collect the anthers, or filaments, from the center of the rose with your fingers. Lay them on a piece of paper to dry for 24 hours, then seal them in an airtight jar until you're ready to pollinate. Gently brush pollen onto the stigma of the flower with a pipe cleaner or artist's paintbrush.
Insect Pollination
Bees and butterflies are the primary insect pollinators for many plants, including roses. As a bee takes nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to its legs and body hair. When it moves to the next flower, some of the pollen rubs off and sticks to the female sex organ of the rose, pollinating it. A butterfly has a long proboscis that probes for nectar. As a butterfly climbs through a flower, it collects pollen on its legs and wings, transferring it when it flits to the next flower. Butterflies and bees are most attracted to yellow, fragrant roses.
Bird Pollination
Birds are most attracted to red and orange roses because they see these colors best. Hummingbirds in particular are excellent pollinators. Because they hover as they feed, their wings stir up pollen, moving it from flower to flower. Many other types of birds come to feed on seeds when fruit develops after pollination, and seeds are dispersed in their droppings.
Wind Pollination
Air currents are another important pollinator for roses. Space rosebushes so that they have plenty of ventilation between them. Overcrowding can lead to disease and insect problems, and it can also decrease pollination if air can't move freely. A breeze can pick up releasing pollen, dispersing it over a wide area. Some of it can't help but land on the sticky surfaces where pollination occurs.
Artificial Pollination
Roses can also be pollinated and hybridized by human hands. When the rose is fully open, collect the anthers, or filaments, from the center of the rose with your fingers. Lay them on a piece of paper to dry for 24 hours, then seal them in an airtight jar until you're ready to pollinate. Gently brush pollen onto the stigma of the flower with a pipe cleaner or artist's paintbrush.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Do Alocasia elephant ears have seeds? They do reproduce through seed but it takes years before you will get the big beautiful leaves. Older plants in good conditions will produce a spathe and spadix that will eventually produce seed pods. Elephant ear flower seeds are only viable a short time, so if you want to plant them, harvest the pods and use them as soon as possible.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The dragon fruit is a cactus known for its sweet, custard-like fruit and crunchy seeds. The dragon fruit name refers to both the fruit and the plant. The plant also goes by other names such as pitaya and strawberry pear. The plant blooms only at night and is pollinated by bats and moths.
USDA Hardiness Zones
Dragon fruit grow well in tropical and subtropical climates, USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, but grow outdoors in zone 9 with protection during occasional freezing weather. They do not rely on climatic conditions for ripening, so they can be grown in other areas in greenhouses or with protection from the cold. They are currently grown in tropical and subtropical areas of the United States, including South Florida, California and Hawaii.
Heat Tolerance
Dragon fruit grow well in warm weather, but are vulnerable to extreme heat and sun. Ideal temperatures for growth are between 65 degrees and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures over 100 degrees are excessive and damage the plant. Dragon fruit like full sun, but they do fine with some shade. Extreme sun combined with low humidity or high altitude can sunburn the stems and cause severe damage, especially when the plants are young. Protect the plants with 30 percent shading during the first three or four months.
Cold Tolerance
Dragon fruit quickly recover from a light frost, but sustained freezing temperatures damage the plant. The fruit are susceptible to chilling injury below 40 degrees.
Soil Preferences
Dragon fruit are moderately to highly tolerant of salt in the soil. They prefer a rich, mildly acidic to neutral soil, pH 6.1 to 7.5.
Wind and Rain
Dragon fruit need support for their heavy stems. They can be damaged by strong wind conditions that compromise the support structure. They need 25 to 50 inches of rain or irrigation each year, with irrigation twice a week during fruiting. They are prone to flower drop and root rot in excessively wet conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
This generally low-growing member of the pea family (fabaceae, formerly referred to as the legiminosae) has unusual flower heads; they are in two parts. One side will be coming into bloom while the other has semi-ripened seeds. Kidney vetch can be found on abandoned farmland, waysides and bare, stony ground as well as in coastal sand dune systems.
Distribution
Anthyllis vulneraria is common and widespread in Britain and Ireland; it occurs also throughout mainland Europe. Kidney Vetch is a particularly common plant in the Mediterranean region, where the pink-flowered form is more often seen. Plants seen in Slovenia are generally a paler, lemon yellow than the ones we see in Britain.
Habitat and Blooming Times
In Northern Europe, Kidney Vetch blooms between April and September. Further south in the Mediterranean region the flowers appear much earlier in the year, but they are usually over by the end of May.
Distribution
Anthyllis vulneraria is common and widespread in Britain and Ireland; it occurs also throughout mainland Europe. Kidney Vetch is a particularly common plant in the Mediterranean region, where the pink-flowered form is more often seen. Plants seen in Slovenia are generally a paler, lemon yellow than the ones we see in Britain.
Habitat and Blooming Times
In Northern Europe, Kidney Vetch blooms between April and September. Further south in the Mediterranean region the flowers appear much earlier in the year, but they are usually over by the end of May.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Raphanus sativus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Radishes are a hardy, cool-season vegetable that can produce many crops each season due to its rapid days to maturity. Radish seeds can be planted in both the spring and the fall, but growing should be suspended in the warmer months. Overall, radishes are a very easy vegetable to grow.PLANTING
Plant 4-6 weeks before the average date of last frost, after aged manure or organic fertilizer has been worked into soil.
Directly sow seeds ½ inch to an inch deep and one inch apart in rows 12 inches apart.
After they have sprouted, thin to about 2-inch spacings. Crowded plants will not grow well.
Radishes need sun. If they are planted in too much shade—or even where neighboring vegetable plants shade them—they put all their energy into producing larger leaves.
Practice three-year crop rotation.
Plant consecutively every two weeks or so while weather is still cool for a continuous harvest of radishes.
Plan on a fall planting. You can plant radishes later than any other root crop in late summer or early fall and still get a harvest.CARE
Radishes require well-drained soil with consistent moisture. Keep soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.
Thin radishes to about two inches apart when the plants are a week old. You will be amazed at the results.PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbage Root Maggot
Clubroot
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Radishes are a hardy, cool-season vegetable that can produce many crops each season due to its rapid days to maturity. Radish seeds can be planted in both the spring and the fall, but growing should be suspended in the warmer months. Overall, radishes are a very easy vegetable to grow.PLANTING
Plant 4-6 weeks before the average date of last frost, after aged manure or organic fertilizer has been worked into soil.
Directly sow seeds ½ inch to an inch deep and one inch apart in rows 12 inches apart.
After they have sprouted, thin to about 2-inch spacings. Crowded plants will not grow well.
Radishes need sun. If they are planted in too much shade—or even where neighboring vegetable plants shade them—they put all their energy into producing larger leaves.
Practice three-year crop rotation.
Plant consecutively every two weeks or so while weather is still cool for a continuous harvest of radishes.
Plan on a fall planting. You can plant radishes later than any other root crop in late summer or early fall and still get a harvest.CARE
Radishes require well-drained soil with consistent moisture. Keep soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.
Thin radishes to about two inches apart when the plants are a week old. You will be amazed at the results.PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbage Root Maggot
Clubroot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Give your garden and outdoor living spaces a shot of steady, season-long color by planting marigolds. This popular annual flower is a garden favorite because they are easy to care for, grow well from seeds, and attract pollinators. Many varieties of marigolds can also help repel root-knot nematodes, microscopic worms that live in the soil and can damage vegetable and fruit plants. Here is everything you need to know to grow marigolds.
How to Choose Marigolds
Before planting marigolds, decide which type you want to grow. The most commonly grown marigolds are African (also called American or Aztec) and French types. African marigolds have large flower heads (up to 5 inches across) on plants that grow from 10 to 36 inches tall, making them good for fresh cutting. French marigolds are smaller and bushier, with flowers up to 2 inches across on plants that are 6 to 18 inches tall. They are excellent for planting among taller plants in need of pollination.
Where to Plant Marigolds
When planting marigolds, choose a spot in full sun. In warmest regions, provide protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. As you ponder where to plant, understand that these annual flowers crave fertile, well-drained soil. Marigolds planted in heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well are usually not productive.
How to Water Marigolds
When growing marigolds, check soil weekly: When the top inch is dry, it’s time to water. (Marigolds growing in containers may need more frequent watering.) Each time you water, be sure to drench the soil, and aim the nozzle or spout of your watering device toward the base of the plants.
How to Care for Marigolds
While growing marigolds, you may discover Japanese beetles on the blooms, especially the larger blossoms of the African types. Knock the beetles into soapy water to drown them, or spray plants with Ortho® Insect Killer Rose & Flower. You will also want to keep an eye out for spent flowers, and remove them as soon as you see them. This process is called deadheading, and it encourages plants to form new flower buds. Marigolds stand up to heat and humidity, but in the hottest regions, plants can enter a rest period during summer’s most sizzling days. Keep plants well-watered during this time. As soon as intense heat lifts, plants should resume blooming.
How to Use Marigolds
In the garden, French marigolds create a colorful edging that beckons butterflies and other pollinators. African marigolds are ideal for picking for fresh arrangements. In addition to the beauty they offer, marigolds can also be planted as pest control in the vegetable garden or flower beds. They contain a chemical (thiophene) that helps control nematodes in soil. Marigold flowers make great additions to bouquets and dry well. You can also eat the petals, which have a slightly peppery flavor. Put them in salads or on baked goods, or add them to stir-fries.
How to Pick Marigolds
If you’re picking marigolds for bouquets or drying, cut blossoms in the morning or late afternoon. Harvest flowers for either use when they are fully open. Choose newly opened flowers for edible uses.
How to Choose Marigolds
Before planting marigolds, decide which type you want to grow. The most commonly grown marigolds are African (also called American or Aztec) and French types. African marigolds have large flower heads (up to 5 inches across) on plants that grow from 10 to 36 inches tall, making them good for fresh cutting. French marigolds are smaller and bushier, with flowers up to 2 inches across on plants that are 6 to 18 inches tall. They are excellent for planting among taller plants in need of pollination.
Where to Plant Marigolds
When planting marigolds, choose a spot in full sun. In warmest regions, provide protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. As you ponder where to plant, understand that these annual flowers crave fertile, well-drained soil. Marigolds planted in heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well are usually not productive.
How to Water Marigolds
When growing marigolds, check soil weekly: When the top inch is dry, it’s time to water. (Marigolds growing in containers may need more frequent watering.) Each time you water, be sure to drench the soil, and aim the nozzle or spout of your watering device toward the base of the plants.
How to Care for Marigolds
While growing marigolds, you may discover Japanese beetles on the blooms, especially the larger blossoms of the African types. Knock the beetles into soapy water to drown them, or spray plants with Ortho® Insect Killer Rose & Flower. You will also want to keep an eye out for spent flowers, and remove them as soon as you see them. This process is called deadheading, and it encourages plants to form new flower buds. Marigolds stand up to heat and humidity, but in the hottest regions, plants can enter a rest period during summer’s most sizzling days. Keep plants well-watered during this time. As soon as intense heat lifts, plants should resume blooming.
How to Use Marigolds
In the garden, French marigolds create a colorful edging that beckons butterflies and other pollinators. African marigolds are ideal for picking for fresh arrangements. In addition to the beauty they offer, marigolds can also be planted as pest control in the vegetable garden or flower beds. They contain a chemical (thiophene) that helps control nematodes in soil. Marigold flowers make great additions to bouquets and dry well. You can also eat the petals, which have a slightly peppery flavor. Put them in salads or on baked goods, or add them to stir-fries.
How to Pick Marigolds
If you’re picking marigolds for bouquets or drying, cut blossoms in the morning or late afternoon. Harvest flowers for either use when they are fully open. Choose newly opened flowers for edible uses.
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