文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
The large milkweed bug, Oncopeltus fasciatus, is colored orange-red and black. It has a long proboscis and is a piercing sucking insect. It feeds on the seeds, leaves and stems of milkweed (Asclepias). It is found in small groups on milkweed often on the stems, leaves and on the seed pods. The bodies of milkweed bugs contain toxic compounds derived from the sap which they suck from milkweed. Milkweed bugs are true bugs (Hemiptera) . They are used as research insects because they are easy to use in the laboratory, have a short life cycle and are easy to manipulate.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Milkweed bugs are more of a nuisance than a threat to milkweed plants. They feed on the seeds by piercing the seed pod and can be found in all stages of growth on the plants in mid to late summer.
Life Cycle
The milkweed bug undergoes incomplete metamorphosis. The nymphs look like adults but do not have full wings and their color pattern is different. They have five instars before they reach adulthood. Black wing pads appear early in their development. Eggs are a light lemon yellow changing to a reddish color. Incubation period is about four to five days. Each molt lasts five to six days. An adult will live for about one month. The insect overwinters as an adult.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the damage. Milkweed bugs do little damage and are only present for a short period of time. Just living with the insects may be the most prudent thing to do.
2. Sanitation. Remove leaf litter and spent stalks in the fall to eliminate overwintering sites.
3. Use insecticidal soap. For quick control of an infestation insecticidal soaps are very effective and safe. Good coverage of the insects with the spray is necessary for it to be effective.
4. Use chemical insecticides. If necessary use chemical insecticides such as malathion or carbaryl.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Milkweed bugs are more of a nuisance than a threat to milkweed plants. They feed on the seeds by piercing the seed pod and can be found in all stages of growth on the plants in mid to late summer.
Life Cycle
The milkweed bug undergoes incomplete metamorphosis. The nymphs look like adults but do not have full wings and their color pattern is different. They have five instars before they reach adulthood. Black wing pads appear early in their development. Eggs are a light lemon yellow changing to a reddish color. Incubation period is about four to five days. Each molt lasts five to six days. An adult will live for about one month. The insect overwinters as an adult.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the damage. Milkweed bugs do little damage and are only present for a short period of time. Just living with the insects may be the most prudent thing to do.
2. Sanitation. Remove leaf litter and spent stalks in the fall to eliminate overwintering sites.
3. Use insecticidal soap. For quick control of an infestation insecticidal soaps are very effective and safe. Good coverage of the insects with the spray is necessary for it to be effective.
4. Use chemical insecticides. If necessary use chemical insecticides such as malathion or carbaryl.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Sclerotia of southern blight (resembling mustard seeds) at the crown of Japanese anemone (Anemone)
Crown rot, sometimes called southern blight or southern stem rot, is caused by several soil-borne fungi. It affects herbaceous plants and some woody plants but is most commonly found on ajuga, anemone, campanula, chrysanthemum, delphinium, hosta, hydrangea, iris, narcissus, phlox, rudbeckia, scabiosa, sedum, and tulip. The problem generally requires removal of the diseased plant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Crown rot causes deterioration and rotting of the tissues at the crown of the plant causing the leaves to turn yellow, collapse, and die. When the temperature exceeds 70 degrees F, infected plants develop discolored, water-soaked stem lesions near the soil line. During periods of high humidity, coarse cottony webbing (mycelium) develops and fans out over the stem base and surrounding soil. Sclerotia, which resemble mustard seeds and vary from white to reddish tan to light brown in color, develop at the base of the plant. Enough sclerotia may form to create a crust on the soil.
Life Cycle
The fungi which cause crown rot (Pellicularia rolfsii, Sclerotium delphinii, and Sclerotium rolfsii) survive in the soil and are spread by flowing water, transported or contaminated soil, transplants, and tools. Conditions of 86–95 degrees F for several days with intermittent rains are conducive for fungal development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants as soon as they are noticed. Plants can be buried, but do NOT place them in your compost pile.
2. Excavate surrounding soil. Dig out and replace the soil to a depth of 8 inches and 6 inches beyond the diseased area.
3. Solarize the soil. If you do not remove the soil and the area receives at least two to three hours of direct sun, solarize it. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of the summer.
4. Provide better drainage. Increasing the organic content of the soil and improving drainage will make the environment less desirable to the fungus.
5. Sterilize all tools. Clean all tools used in digging with a solution of 1–part bleach to 9–parts water to disinfect the tools and reduce spreading the disease to other locations in your garden.
6. Try fungicides. Pesticides registered for control of crown rot include mancozeb and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336).
Crown rot, sometimes called southern blight or southern stem rot, is caused by several soil-borne fungi. It affects herbaceous plants and some woody plants but is most commonly found on ajuga, anemone, campanula, chrysanthemum, delphinium, hosta, hydrangea, iris, narcissus, phlox, rudbeckia, scabiosa, sedum, and tulip. The problem generally requires removal of the diseased plant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Crown rot causes deterioration and rotting of the tissues at the crown of the plant causing the leaves to turn yellow, collapse, and die. When the temperature exceeds 70 degrees F, infected plants develop discolored, water-soaked stem lesions near the soil line. During periods of high humidity, coarse cottony webbing (mycelium) develops and fans out over the stem base and surrounding soil. Sclerotia, which resemble mustard seeds and vary from white to reddish tan to light brown in color, develop at the base of the plant. Enough sclerotia may form to create a crust on the soil.
Life Cycle
The fungi which cause crown rot (Pellicularia rolfsii, Sclerotium delphinii, and Sclerotium rolfsii) survive in the soil and are spread by flowing water, transported or contaminated soil, transplants, and tools. Conditions of 86–95 degrees F for several days with intermittent rains are conducive for fungal development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants as soon as they are noticed. Plants can be buried, but do NOT place them in your compost pile.
2. Excavate surrounding soil. Dig out and replace the soil to a depth of 8 inches and 6 inches beyond the diseased area.
3. Solarize the soil. If you do not remove the soil and the area receives at least two to three hours of direct sun, solarize it. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of the summer.
4. Provide better drainage. Increasing the organic content of the soil and improving drainage will make the environment less desirable to the fungus.
5. Sterilize all tools. Clean all tools used in digging with a solution of 1–part bleach to 9–parts water to disinfect the tools and reduce spreading the disease to other locations in your garden.
6. Try fungicides. Pesticides registered for control of crown rot include mancozeb and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A soil-borne fungal disease that affects seeds and new seedlings, damping off usually refers to the rotting of stem and root tissues at and below the soil surface. In most cases, infected plants will germinate and come up fine, but within a few days they become water-soaked and mushy, fall over at the base and die.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Look for
Seedlings germinate and begin to grow well until whole trays rapidly collapse and die. Damping off can also cause trays of seeds to fail to germinate.
Plants affected
Young seedlings of annual bedding and vegetables are the most commonly affected, but damping off can be a problem on a wide range of plants.
About
Damping off is caused by a variety of different soil borne fungi including Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.
Once plants have been affected, Botrytis (Grey mould) often also attacks.
Plants are more likely to succumb if they are under stress.
Stress can be caused by high temperature, high humidity and waterlogging.
Treatment
Good hygiene is important in combating damping off. Wash and disinfect pots and trays after use and use fresh compost.
Dispose of pots, trays and compost where damping off has been a problem.
High humidity around plants can increase the likelihood of damping off. Keep greenhouses well ventilated and sow seeds thinly to avoid overcrowding.
The fungi can infect plants through their water. Make sure all rainwater-butts have sealed lids to prevent leaves and debris entering them and introducing fungi to the water.
Seedlings germinate and begin to grow well until whole trays rapidly collapse and die. Damping off can also cause trays of seeds to fail to germinate.
Plants affected
Young seedlings of annual bedding and vegetables are the most commonly affected, but damping off can be a problem on a wide range of plants.
About
Damping off is caused by a variety of different soil borne fungi including Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.
Once plants have been affected, Botrytis (Grey mould) often also attacks.
Plants are more likely to succumb if they are under stress.
Stress can be caused by high temperature, high humidity and waterlogging.
Treatment
Good hygiene is important in combating damping off. Wash and disinfect pots and trays after use and use fresh compost.
Dispose of pots, trays and compost where damping off has been a problem.
High humidity around plants can increase the likelihood of damping off. Keep greenhouses well ventilated and sow seeds thinly to avoid overcrowding.
The fungi can infect plants through their water. Make sure all rainwater-butts have sealed lids to prevent leaves and debris entering them and introducing fungi to the water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
I've gotten a few questions over the past week or two from readers who have noticed white, fuzzy mold growing on their seedlings. This is a fairly common issue for those who start their own plants from seeds. Most of us plant our seeds and take care to keep the seedlings moist, but that can cause the white fuzzy mold to appear on them.
There is good news for your seedlings--and your garden, too. The fungus itself is not going to hurt your seedlings.
The bad news: that fungus is a sign that your soil is too wet. Soil that is too wet can result in having the delicate roots of your seedlings rot, which will eventually result in plant death.
How to Stop White Fuzzy Mold on Seedlings
Luckily, the mold is an easy thing to fix. Chances are, you are causing the mold by watering too much. Don't water your plants-to-be unless the seedlings really need it. It is easy to get into a routine of just giving them a quick water every day or so "just to be sure," but this can sometimes do more harm than good. Check the soil's moisture with your finger; only water if the soil is dry. That simple check can help you stop the white fuzzy mold from growing.
Rethink how much you water when you do water. You may simply need to cut down the amount of water you put on each seedling--another way to reduce white fuzzy mold for healthier seedlings.
Another thing that can help kill off the mold and prevent it from growing is to increase the air flow around your seedlings.
You can do this by having a fan running nearby for at least a few hours a day. Not only does this help prohibit fungal growth, but it also results in sturdier seedlings.
Additionally, you may want to look at how much light the seedlings are getting. They need at least twelve hours of good, strong light per day to grow well.
That also helps the water to dissipate and not sit stagnant. Try not to place them in direct sunlight, either, because covered trays can get too hot and damage the seedlings. Check the temperature, too. The best photosynthesis occurs when the temperature stays between 77°F and 82°F).
Finally, if at all possible, consider a system that lets you water from the bottom of the seedling container. This not only encourages the roots to grow deeper. It also helps alleviate mold and fungus because the surface of the soil is not constantly moist, so it cannot grow.
Once you do one or all of those things, you can actually remove the white mold from your seedlings. Gently scrape it away with a knife or spoon.
There is good news for your seedlings--and your garden, too. The fungus itself is not going to hurt your seedlings.
The bad news: that fungus is a sign that your soil is too wet. Soil that is too wet can result in having the delicate roots of your seedlings rot, which will eventually result in plant death.
How to Stop White Fuzzy Mold on Seedlings
Luckily, the mold is an easy thing to fix. Chances are, you are causing the mold by watering too much. Don't water your plants-to-be unless the seedlings really need it. It is easy to get into a routine of just giving them a quick water every day or so "just to be sure," but this can sometimes do more harm than good. Check the soil's moisture with your finger; only water if the soil is dry. That simple check can help you stop the white fuzzy mold from growing.
Rethink how much you water when you do water. You may simply need to cut down the amount of water you put on each seedling--another way to reduce white fuzzy mold for healthier seedlings.
Another thing that can help kill off the mold and prevent it from growing is to increase the air flow around your seedlings.
You can do this by having a fan running nearby for at least a few hours a day. Not only does this help prohibit fungal growth, but it also results in sturdier seedlings.
Additionally, you may want to look at how much light the seedlings are getting. They need at least twelve hours of good, strong light per day to grow well.
That also helps the water to dissipate and not sit stagnant. Try not to place them in direct sunlight, either, because covered trays can get too hot and damage the seedlings. Check the temperature, too. The best photosynthesis occurs when the temperature stays between 77°F and 82°F).
Finally, if at all possible, consider a system that lets you water from the bottom of the seedling container. This not only encourages the roots to grow deeper. It also helps alleviate mold and fungus because the surface of the soil is not constantly moist, so it cannot grow.
Once you do one or all of those things, you can actually remove the white mold from your seedlings. Gently scrape it away with a knife or spoon.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
The problem with growing mulberry trees is the berries. They create a mess on the ground beneath the trees and stain everything they come in contact with. In addition, the birds that eat the berries disburse the seeds, and the species has become invasive in the wild. Fruitless mulberry trees (Morus alba ‘Fruitless’) are just as appealing as the fruited varieties, but without the mess or the invasive potential. So what is a fruitless mulberry tree? A fruitless mulberry tree is an excellent choice for a medium to large shade tree in home landscapes. It grows 20 to 60 feet tall with a dense canopy as much as 45 feet wide. This handsome tree has dark green foliage in summer which turns yellow before it drops in fall.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Norway maple trees (Acer platinoides) are wonderful shade trees in the garden. However, they produce many seeds and propagate so easily that they readily escape cultivation. In the wild, Norway maple shades out native plants. Controlling Norway maples is much more difficult than growing them. For information about Norway maple control, read on.
Norway Maple Weed Trees
Norway maples are tall, attractive trees that taller than 65 feet. They have dense, rounded canopies that offer deep shade beneath. The trunk of the Norway maple is mottled gray and smooth. The color and texture of the bark contrasts with the dark-green, deeply lobed leaves that grow to six inches long and five inches wide. Both the leaves and the twigs “bleed” a milky sap when cut or broken.
The trees produce upright clusters of yellowish green flowers that bloom in May. The flowers give way to winged fruit called samaras. These samara are packed with seeds, and the wind blows them far and wide, allowing the seeds to spread. They germinate promptly, even in full shade. This makes controlling Norway maple difficult.
These maples are called “Norway maple weed trees” because they spread so rapidly. Given the vast numbers of seeds produced by the tree and the ease with which they grow, Norway maple weed trees in your backyard spread quickly to nearby forests and fields. Though not native to this country, Norway maple trees are currently found in half the states, and they are considered invasive in most of them.
How to Manage a Norway Maple
Experts addressing the question of how to manage a Norway maple recommend against planting the tree in new developments. Controlling Norway maple populations is a real challenge. If the only new trees are seedlings and saplings, Norway maple control can be effected by weeding these out by hand. A weed wrench pulls Norway maples out of the ground with most of their roots intact. If you want to know how to manage a Norway maple sapling, use pruning loppers to fell the young tree. Then apply an herbicide to the exposed stump.
In an area where the trees have already spread into the wild, one method of Norway maple control is pruning out seed-bearing branches each year. This is a good solution for an area under long-term resource management. Pruning stops the tree’s spread without leaving immediate holes in the forest structure. Removing trees is another option. It’s a better option where the natural resource management is short term rather than long term. Girdling big trees by cutting deeply into the bark around the trunk will effectively kill them. Once the trees are removed, it is critical to act quickly to transplant native trees into the spaces the Norway maples used to occupy.
Perhaps the best way to do Norway maple control is opting to plant a different type of tree. Native trees like red maple and sweetgum are good alternatives.
Norway Maple Weed Trees
Norway maples are tall, attractive trees that taller than 65 feet. They have dense, rounded canopies that offer deep shade beneath. The trunk of the Norway maple is mottled gray and smooth. The color and texture of the bark contrasts with the dark-green, deeply lobed leaves that grow to six inches long and five inches wide. Both the leaves and the twigs “bleed” a milky sap when cut or broken.
The trees produce upright clusters of yellowish green flowers that bloom in May. The flowers give way to winged fruit called samaras. These samara are packed with seeds, and the wind blows them far and wide, allowing the seeds to spread. They germinate promptly, even in full shade. This makes controlling Norway maple difficult.
These maples are called “Norway maple weed trees” because they spread so rapidly. Given the vast numbers of seeds produced by the tree and the ease with which they grow, Norway maple weed trees in your backyard spread quickly to nearby forests and fields. Though not native to this country, Norway maple trees are currently found in half the states, and they are considered invasive in most of them.
How to Manage a Norway Maple
Experts addressing the question of how to manage a Norway maple recommend against planting the tree in new developments. Controlling Norway maple populations is a real challenge. If the only new trees are seedlings and saplings, Norway maple control can be effected by weeding these out by hand. A weed wrench pulls Norway maples out of the ground with most of their roots intact. If you want to know how to manage a Norway maple sapling, use pruning loppers to fell the young tree. Then apply an herbicide to the exposed stump.
In an area where the trees have already spread into the wild, one method of Norway maple control is pruning out seed-bearing branches each year. This is a good solution for an area under long-term resource management. Pruning stops the tree’s spread without leaving immediate holes in the forest structure. Removing trees is another option. It’s a better option where the natural resource management is short term rather than long term. Girdling big trees by cutting deeply into the bark around the trunk will effectively kill them. Once the trees are removed, it is critical to act quickly to transplant native trees into the spaces the Norway maples used to occupy.
Perhaps the best way to do Norway maple control is opting to plant a different type of tree. Native trees like red maple and sweetgum are good alternatives.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Who among us hasn’t been told at least once not to eat crabapples? Because of their frequently bad taste and small amounts of cyanide in the seeds, it’s a common misconception that crabapples are toxic. But is it safe to eat crabapples? Keep reading to learn more about the safety of eating crabapples and what to do with crabapple fruit trees.
Are Crabapples Edible?
The short answer to this question is: yes. But there’s a longer answer to explain why. Crabapples aren’t actually a different kind of tree than apples. The only distinction is one of size. If a tree produces fruits that are bigger than two inches (5 cm.) in diameter, it’s an apple. If the fruits are smaller than 2 inches, it’s a crabapple. That’s it. Granted, those apples that have been bred to be bigger have also been bred to be better tasting. And many ornamental varieties of crabapples have been bred to have attractive flowers and nothing else. This means that the fruit of crabapple trees, for the most part, is not especially good tasting. Eating crabapples won’t make you sick, but you may not enjoy the experience.
Eating Fruit of Crabapple Trees
Some crabapple fruit trees are more palatable than others. Dolgo and Centennial are varieties that are sweet enough to eat right off the tree. For the most part, however, crabapple owners prefer to cook the fruit into preserves, butters, sauces, and pies. A couple good varieties for cooking are Chestnut and Whitney. Crabapple trees hybridize readily, so if you have a tree on your property, there’s a decent chance you’ll never know quite what it is. Feel free to experiment with eating it fresh and cooking it with lots of sugar to see if it tastes good.
You don’t have to worry about whether it’s edible – it is. And as for the cyanide? It’s just as present in the seeds of apples and even pears. Just avoid the seeds as usual and you’ll be fine.
Are Crabapples Edible?
The short answer to this question is: yes. But there’s a longer answer to explain why. Crabapples aren’t actually a different kind of tree than apples. The only distinction is one of size. If a tree produces fruits that are bigger than two inches (5 cm.) in diameter, it’s an apple. If the fruits are smaller than 2 inches, it’s a crabapple. That’s it. Granted, those apples that have been bred to be bigger have also been bred to be better tasting. And many ornamental varieties of crabapples have been bred to have attractive flowers and nothing else. This means that the fruit of crabapple trees, for the most part, is not especially good tasting. Eating crabapples won’t make you sick, but you may not enjoy the experience.
Eating Fruit of Crabapple Trees
Some crabapple fruit trees are more palatable than others. Dolgo and Centennial are varieties that are sweet enough to eat right off the tree. For the most part, however, crabapple owners prefer to cook the fruit into preserves, butters, sauces, and pies. A couple good varieties for cooking are Chestnut and Whitney. Crabapple trees hybridize readily, so if you have a tree on your property, there’s a decent chance you’ll never know quite what it is. Feel free to experiment with eating it fresh and cooking it with lots of sugar to see if it tastes good.
You don’t have to worry about whether it’s edible – it is. And as for the cyanide? It’s just as present in the seeds of apples and even pears. Just avoid the seeds as usual and you’ll be fine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Deadheading is a type of pruning where faded blooms are removed from a plant. Plants, particularly roses, are deadheaded to extend the amount of time the plant produces flowers, keep the plant compact and tidy, and stop the plant from producing seeds. Knockout roses are deadheaded to keep the plant looking tidy as this rose produces blooms from mid to late spring through fall even without deadheading. Knockout roses produce flushes of blooms every five to six weeks. Removing faded blooms can decrease the time between bloom production and increase the size and quality of the flowers.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gunnera manicata is one of the most astounding plants you will ever see. The larger specimens of these ornamental giants can be quite expensive but don’t worry, collecting gunnera seeds and growing plants from them is easy. There are just a few crucial items to know about gunnera seed propagation to ensure success. Read this little article for some tips on how to propagate gunnera from seed and grow your own giant rhubarb.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Did you know that most bamboo plants only flower once every 50 years? You probably don’t have the time to wait around for your bamboo to produce seeds, so you’re going to have to divide your existing clumps and transplant them when you want to propagate your plants. Bamboo will grow and spread quickly, but there is no real way to direct it into far corners of the garden. Take a portion of an established clump, however, and you can create a new stand of bamboo in one season. Let’s learn more about transplanting bamboo.
When to Relocate Bamboos
Bamboo plants can be a bit finicky when it comes to transplanting, yet if you treat them right, they’ll spread all over the new area in very little time. Never transplant your bamboo when new shoots are forming; early in the spring or late in the fall are the best times. The roots are very sensitive to lack of moisture and to sunlight, so choose a cloudy, misty day for the absolute best results.
How to Transplant Bamboo
The roots of the bamboo plant are amazingly tough. You’ll need a sharp shovel or axe to cut the root bunches for bamboo plant moving. The easiest way is to use a chainsaw. Wear protective clothing and eye covering to prevent thrown rocks or splinters. Cut down through the earth about a foot away from the clump of stems. Make a complete circle through the dirt, slicing down about 12 inches. Slide a shovel underneath the clump and rock it up out of the ground. Plunge the root clump into a bucket of water immediately. Lean the stand of bamboo against a shed or fence, as this plant doesn’t do well if you lay it down on the ground. Have the moist hole already dug for the bamboo’s new home. Carry the bucket to the hole and transfer the clump of bamboo from the water to the soil. Cover the roots and water the plant very well. Cover the base of the plant with organic mulch such as dried leaves or grass clippings. Bamboo loves water, especially when it’s stressed, and mulch will shade the soil and help keep in as much moisture as possible. Set up some shade for the new bamboo plants by stretching cheesecloth or other light fabric over poles to create a sort of light tent. This will give the new bamboo clump some added protection while it establishes itself. Once you see fresh new shoots coming up, you can remove the shade fabric, but keep the soil moist throughout the year.
When to Relocate Bamboos
Bamboo plants can be a bit finicky when it comes to transplanting, yet if you treat them right, they’ll spread all over the new area in very little time. Never transplant your bamboo when new shoots are forming; early in the spring or late in the fall are the best times. The roots are very sensitive to lack of moisture and to sunlight, so choose a cloudy, misty day for the absolute best results.
How to Transplant Bamboo
The roots of the bamboo plant are amazingly tough. You’ll need a sharp shovel or axe to cut the root bunches for bamboo plant moving. The easiest way is to use a chainsaw. Wear protective clothing and eye covering to prevent thrown rocks or splinters. Cut down through the earth about a foot away from the clump of stems. Make a complete circle through the dirt, slicing down about 12 inches. Slide a shovel underneath the clump and rock it up out of the ground. Plunge the root clump into a bucket of water immediately. Lean the stand of bamboo against a shed or fence, as this plant doesn’t do well if you lay it down on the ground. Have the moist hole already dug for the bamboo’s new home. Carry the bucket to the hole and transfer the clump of bamboo from the water to the soil. Cover the roots and water the plant very well. Cover the base of the plant with organic mulch such as dried leaves or grass clippings. Bamboo loves water, especially when it’s stressed, and mulch will shade the soil and help keep in as much moisture as possible. Set up some shade for the new bamboo plants by stretching cheesecloth or other light fabric over poles to create a sort of light tent. This will give the new bamboo clump some added protection while it establishes itself. Once you see fresh new shoots coming up, you can remove the shade fabric, but keep the soil moist throughout the year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
It’s a common tale, you planted a few cattails in the shallow edges of your backyard pond and now you have a dense stand of cattails blocking your view and access to your shrinking pond. Cattails spread vigorously through underground rhizomes and seeds that seem to germinate as soon as they land in the water. They can also choke out other pond plants with their aggressive rhizomes and tall height that shades out smaller plants. On the plus side, cattails are one of the best natural filters for ponds, lakes, streams, etc. As they filter waterways, they take up valuable nutrients that can be used as soil amendments and mulch. Continue reading to learn about mulching with cattails.
Uses for Cattail Plants
Many species of cattails are native to the U.S. However, a lot of the more aggressive species we see in waterways now are introduced species or species that came into existence by natives and introduced species cross pollinating. For centuries, Native Americans used cattails for food, medicine and as a fiber for various items like shoes, clothing and bedding. Leftover remnants of the plant were then worked back into the earth. Presently, cattails are being researched for use as ethanol and methane fuels.
Cattail Mulch in Landscapes
Cattails as mulch or compost provide carbon, phosphorus and nitrogen to the garden. Cattails grow and reproduce quickly, making them a valuable renewable resource. As natural pond filters, they absorb fish and amphibian waste, which also benefit garden soil. Another benefit is that cattail seeds will not germinate in the garden, like many plants used as mulches can unfortunately do. The main drawback to making mulch from pond plants is that it can be rather unpleasant smelling to work with. Also, cattails are considered protected species in some areas and invasive species in other locations, so know your local laws before removing or planting wild plants. Cattails have a history of being used as a durable fiber. What this means when considering mulching with cattails is that it does not break down quickly or easily. If you are planning on using cattails as mulch or in the compost pile, you will need to chop it up with a mulcher or mower. Mix in wood chips and/or yarrow plants to speed up decomposition.
Cattails growing in ponds will probably need some manual control once a year. The best time to do this is midsummer when the plants have had time to store up valuable nutrients but are not yet spending them on seed production – if you are planning to use them as mulch or compost. Cattails can be pulled out by hand or cut below water level to control and utilize them. If you have a large pond or plans to mulch/compost cattails on a grand level, they can be dredged out with heavy equipment. Again, be aware of local laws regarding cattails before doing anything with them.
Uses for Cattail Plants
Many species of cattails are native to the U.S. However, a lot of the more aggressive species we see in waterways now are introduced species or species that came into existence by natives and introduced species cross pollinating. For centuries, Native Americans used cattails for food, medicine and as a fiber for various items like shoes, clothing and bedding. Leftover remnants of the plant were then worked back into the earth. Presently, cattails are being researched for use as ethanol and methane fuels.
Cattail Mulch in Landscapes
Cattails as mulch or compost provide carbon, phosphorus and nitrogen to the garden. Cattails grow and reproduce quickly, making them a valuable renewable resource. As natural pond filters, they absorb fish and amphibian waste, which also benefit garden soil. Another benefit is that cattail seeds will not germinate in the garden, like many plants used as mulches can unfortunately do. The main drawback to making mulch from pond plants is that it can be rather unpleasant smelling to work with. Also, cattails are considered protected species in some areas and invasive species in other locations, so know your local laws before removing or planting wild plants. Cattails have a history of being used as a durable fiber. What this means when considering mulching with cattails is that it does not break down quickly or easily. If you are planning on using cattails as mulch or in the compost pile, you will need to chop it up with a mulcher or mower. Mix in wood chips and/or yarrow plants to speed up decomposition.
Cattails growing in ponds will probably need some manual control once a year. The best time to do this is midsummer when the plants have had time to store up valuable nutrients but are not yet spending them on seed production – if you are planning to use them as mulch or compost. Cattails can be pulled out by hand or cut below water level to control and utilize them. If you have a large pond or plans to mulch/compost cattails on a grand level, they can be dredged out with heavy equipment. Again, be aware of local laws regarding cattails before doing anything with them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What are benne seeds? Chances are, you already know about benne seeds, which are more commonly known as sesame seeds. Benne is an ancient plant with a recorded history of at least 4,000 years. The seeds were highly valued during Colonial times, but in spite of its nutritional benefits, benne hasn’t gained a following as a food crop in the United States. Today, benne seeds are grown in Texas and a few other Southwestern states, but most often, the seeds are imported from China or India.
Benne Seeds vs. Sesame Seeds
Is there a difference between benne seeds and sesame seeds? Not a bit. Benne is simply the African name for sesame (Sesamum indicum). In fact, many plant historians believe benne was brought to the New World in slave ships. The name is largely a regional preference and sesame seeds are still known as benne in certain areas of the Deep South.
Benne Health Benefits
Sesame seeds are a great source of minerals, including copper, magnesium, calcium, iron, manganese, zinc and selenium. They are also rich in vitamin B and E and protein, and the high fiber content makes them an effective treatment for constipation. Benne health benefits also include the oil, which is healthy for the heart and also used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including sunburn.
Sesame Plant Info – Growing Benne Seeds
Sesame plant is a drought tolerant annual that can reach heights of two to six feet, depending on plant variety and growing conditions. White or pale pink, bell-shaped flowers bloom for several weeks during the summer. Sesame plants grow in most soil types, but they thrive in fertile soil with a neutral pH. Well-drained soil is a requirement, as sesame plants don’t tolerant soggy growing conditions. Full sunlight is best for growing benne seeds.
Sesame (benne) seeds for planting are often sold by seed companies that specialize in heirloom plants. Start benne seeds indoors about a month before the last expected frost. Plant the seeds in small pots, covered with about ¼-inch of a good quality, lightweight potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist and watch for seeds to germinate in a couple of weeks. Transplant sesame plants outdoors after temperatures have reached 60 to 70 F. (16-21 C.).
Alternatively, plant sesame seeds directly in the garden, in moist soil, after you’re sure all frost danger has passed.
Benne Seeds vs. Sesame Seeds
Is there a difference between benne seeds and sesame seeds? Not a bit. Benne is simply the African name for sesame (Sesamum indicum). In fact, many plant historians believe benne was brought to the New World in slave ships. The name is largely a regional preference and sesame seeds are still known as benne in certain areas of the Deep South.
Benne Health Benefits
Sesame seeds are a great source of minerals, including copper, magnesium, calcium, iron, manganese, zinc and selenium. They are also rich in vitamin B and E and protein, and the high fiber content makes them an effective treatment for constipation. Benne health benefits also include the oil, which is healthy for the heart and also used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including sunburn.
Sesame Plant Info – Growing Benne Seeds
Sesame plant is a drought tolerant annual that can reach heights of two to six feet, depending on plant variety and growing conditions. White or pale pink, bell-shaped flowers bloom for several weeks during the summer. Sesame plants grow in most soil types, but they thrive in fertile soil with a neutral pH. Well-drained soil is a requirement, as sesame plants don’t tolerant soggy growing conditions. Full sunlight is best for growing benne seeds.
Sesame (benne) seeds for planting are often sold by seed companies that specialize in heirloom plants. Start benne seeds indoors about a month before the last expected frost. Plant the seeds in small pots, covered with about ¼-inch of a good quality, lightweight potting mix. Keep the potting mix moist and watch for seeds to germinate in a couple of weeks. Transplant sesame plants outdoors after temperatures have reached 60 to 70 F. (16-21 C.).
Alternatively, plant sesame seeds directly in the garden, in moist soil, after you’re sure all frost danger has passed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is a biennial that is most commonly grown as an annual. Its leaves and seeds are culinary flavorings but flowering will impede leaves while providing the zesty seeds. You need to decide which part you desire the most in order to promote a bigger harvest of that dill growth. When a dill plant has flowers, foliage decreases and the plant focuses its energy on forming a bigger seed head. Flowering in dill plants can be prevented if you wish to preserve the dainty foliage for seasoning.
Help, My Dill Plant is Flowering!
So you say, “My dill plant is flowering.” This may be a good thing or a bad thing depending upon which part of the plant you use most often.
Hot weather will enhance bud formation and cause the plant to bolt, or flower. The flower signals the end of the plant’s life and the cessation of foliage production. It really depends which part you use the most when flowering in dill plants initiates. If you are concerned about your dill forming a flower head, it means you probably use the lacy leaves most often for seasoning. You will notice as the head forms that the stem thickens and foliage becomes smaller and more sparse. This is because the plant is focusing on producing flowers, seed and the reproductive cycle. Why is my dill flowering? Plants that grow in hot regions will see this occurring early in the season, while plants in cooler regions will not flower until later in summer. The good news about flowers is that they lead to seed and, therefore, more future plants. Dill grows fast and you might be able to get another crop if you plant more seed.
What to do if a Dill Plant Has Flowers
Bolting is a natural plant response when environmental conditions become less than optimum. The plant’s impulse is to produce seed and preserve its genetics. In order to prevent the flower head for a time and encourage more leaves, you must literally nip it in the bud. This means pinching when you first see the beginnings of the small buds. Pinching can enforce a larger, bushier, more compact plant and prevent it from starting to die back. Of course, eventually the plant will die and probably flower but you can extend the leaf harvest somewhat. If your dill plant has flowers already, pinching will likely not help, as the plant has already made the decision to leave this cruel world and leave behind its genetic memento. The flowers will develop into pungent seeds, commonly used in canning and pickling. To harvest the seeds, let the flower turn brown and the seeds turn from green to tan. Snip off the head and hang it upside down in a dry, warm location to finish maturing.
When the seeds are ready, place the entire flower head in a paper bag. Shake the head vigorously into the bag, collecting the tiny oval seeds. Store the leaves in a tightly sealed glass jar in a cool, dry, dark location – such as your spice cupboard. Dill is best fresh and will gradually lose its flavor over time. It is a good idea to replace your dill seasoning annually to preserve that intense flavor. Fortunately, growing dill is quick and simple and the seeds you collect can be used to start the next season’s crop.
Help, My Dill Plant is Flowering!
So you say, “My dill plant is flowering.” This may be a good thing or a bad thing depending upon which part of the plant you use most often.
Hot weather will enhance bud formation and cause the plant to bolt, or flower. The flower signals the end of the plant’s life and the cessation of foliage production. It really depends which part you use the most when flowering in dill plants initiates. If you are concerned about your dill forming a flower head, it means you probably use the lacy leaves most often for seasoning. You will notice as the head forms that the stem thickens and foliage becomes smaller and more sparse. This is because the plant is focusing on producing flowers, seed and the reproductive cycle. Why is my dill flowering? Plants that grow in hot regions will see this occurring early in the season, while plants in cooler regions will not flower until later in summer. The good news about flowers is that they lead to seed and, therefore, more future plants. Dill grows fast and you might be able to get another crop if you plant more seed.
What to do if a Dill Plant Has Flowers
Bolting is a natural plant response when environmental conditions become less than optimum. The plant’s impulse is to produce seed and preserve its genetics. In order to prevent the flower head for a time and encourage more leaves, you must literally nip it in the bud. This means pinching when you first see the beginnings of the small buds. Pinching can enforce a larger, bushier, more compact plant and prevent it from starting to die back. Of course, eventually the plant will die and probably flower but you can extend the leaf harvest somewhat. If your dill plant has flowers already, pinching will likely not help, as the plant has already made the decision to leave this cruel world and leave behind its genetic memento. The flowers will develop into pungent seeds, commonly used in canning and pickling. To harvest the seeds, let the flower turn brown and the seeds turn from green to tan. Snip off the head and hang it upside down in a dry, warm location to finish maturing.
When the seeds are ready, place the entire flower head in a paper bag. Shake the head vigorously into the bag, collecting the tiny oval seeds. Store the leaves in a tightly sealed glass jar in a cool, dry, dark location – such as your spice cupboard. Dill is best fresh and will gradually lose its flavor over time. It is a good idea to replace your dill seasoning annually to preserve that intense flavor. Fortunately, growing dill is quick and simple and the seeds you collect can be used to start the next season’s crop.
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