文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are tropical perennials that are typically grown as annuals. Not counting the germination of seeds, tomatoes go through roughly four stages of growth: vegetative growth as the seedlings develop, first flowering, first setting of tomatoes and growth of tomatoes until they're ripe and ready for harvest. The duration of these stages vary, depending on the tomato cultivar and the weather.
Counting the Days
Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F.
Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer.
The Crux
Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes.
Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature.
Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem.
Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days.
'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days.
'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days.
Determinate Tomatoes
Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period.
Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days.
'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days.
'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days.
Growing Tomatoes
Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
Counting the Days
Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F.
Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer.
The Crux
Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes.
Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate.
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature.
Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem.
Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days.
'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days.
'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days.
Determinate Tomatoes
Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period.
Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest:
'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days.
'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days.
'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days.
'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days.
Growing Tomatoes
Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
You can save and sow seeds from your favorite garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa), perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, but most are hybrid cultivars that won't come true from seed. On the other hand, purchased or saved seeds for wild strawberries (Fragaria spp., USDA zones 4 through 10), or open-pollinated garden types such as "Fresca" (USDA zones 3 through 8) will come true. Sellers also offer seeds of hybrid decorative garden varieties, including "Tarpan" (USDA zones 5 through 8), which are grown for their unusual pink flowers as well as their berries.
Harvest Seeds
To harvest strawberry seeds from their fruits, place four or five berries and 1 quart of water in the pitcher of a blender. After covering the blender, run it on its lowest setting for 10 seconds. Discard any seeds that float to the surface, as they won't be viable, and pour the mixture of water and strawberry pulp through a strainer that has mesh that's fine enough to retain the seeds. Hold the strainer over a sink or place a container beneath it to catch the watery pulp. When the seeds are completely drained, spread them on paper towels and allow them to dry thoroughly.
Stratify Seeds
Store saved or purchased strawberry seeds in a paper envelope inside a covered glass jar or zip-lock plastic bag in the refrigerator until one month before you intend to plant them. If you want to harvest strawberries the same year that you plant their seeds, you must sow the seeds indoors no later than the beginning of February. One month earlier than the planting date you choose, place the jar or bag containing the seeds in the freezer. After the month has passed, retrieve the container from the freezer, and leave it at room temperature overnight before you open it to plant the seeds.
Plant Seeds
Make sure the flowerpot or other container you use for sowing the seeds has drainage holes. After filling it to within 1/2 inch of its rim with damp, sterile seed-starting mix, sow the seeds about 1 inch apart over the surface of the mix. Press them into the surface and leave them uncovered, as they require light for germination. After topping the container with plastic wrap, place it under a grow light set to run for 12 to 14 hours per day or on a sunny -- preferably south-facing -- windowsill. If you keep the container at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds should germinate within one to six weeks.
Grow Seedlings
For the first month, feed the plants once every two weeks with a fertilizer recommended for seedlings, such as liquid kelp (0-0-1). Use only half the amount specified, which for the kelp would be 1 tablespoon of the concentrate per gallon of water. After one month, you can raise that to the full amount of 2 tablespoons per gallon every two weeks. About six weeks after the seedlings germinate, transplant them into individual 4-inch pots of potting soil. They should be ready to go outdoors after another six weeks. Place the pots in the shade at first, accustoming the plants gradually to more and more sun before you transplant them into the garden, setting them 2 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Work 1/4 cup of an all-purpose organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 into the planting hole for each seedling, water them well and mulch them with straw. To stay healthy, the strawberry plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation.
Harvest Seeds
To harvest strawberry seeds from their fruits, place four or five berries and 1 quart of water in the pitcher of a blender. After covering the blender, run it on its lowest setting for 10 seconds. Discard any seeds that float to the surface, as they won't be viable, and pour the mixture of water and strawberry pulp through a strainer that has mesh that's fine enough to retain the seeds. Hold the strainer over a sink or place a container beneath it to catch the watery pulp. When the seeds are completely drained, spread them on paper towels and allow them to dry thoroughly.
Stratify Seeds
Store saved or purchased strawberry seeds in a paper envelope inside a covered glass jar or zip-lock plastic bag in the refrigerator until one month before you intend to plant them. If you want to harvest strawberries the same year that you plant their seeds, you must sow the seeds indoors no later than the beginning of February. One month earlier than the planting date you choose, place the jar or bag containing the seeds in the freezer. After the month has passed, retrieve the container from the freezer, and leave it at room temperature overnight before you open it to plant the seeds.
Plant Seeds
Make sure the flowerpot or other container you use for sowing the seeds has drainage holes. After filling it to within 1/2 inch of its rim with damp, sterile seed-starting mix, sow the seeds about 1 inch apart over the surface of the mix. Press them into the surface and leave them uncovered, as they require light for germination. After topping the container with plastic wrap, place it under a grow light set to run for 12 to 14 hours per day or on a sunny -- preferably south-facing -- windowsill. If you keep the container at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds should germinate within one to six weeks.
Grow Seedlings
For the first month, feed the plants once every two weeks with a fertilizer recommended for seedlings, such as liquid kelp (0-0-1). Use only half the amount specified, which for the kelp would be 1 tablespoon of the concentrate per gallon of water. After one month, you can raise that to the full amount of 2 tablespoons per gallon every two weeks. About six weeks after the seedlings germinate, transplant them into individual 4-inch pots of potting soil. They should be ready to go outdoors after another six weeks. Place the pots in the shade at first, accustoming the plants gradually to more and more sun before you transplant them into the garden, setting them 2 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Work 1/4 cup of an all-purpose organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 into the planting hole for each seedling, water them well and mulch them with straw. To stay healthy, the strawberry plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
Because seeds from grapevines (Vitis spp.) don't produce plants like the mother plants, the seeds usually are sown only by plant breeders in search of new grape varieties. You, too, can create your own cultivar in that way, though it may be inferior to its mother plant. Because the hardiness of grapevines ranges from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10, depending on the variety, select seeds from a type that flourishes in your climate. Some seedlings may produce fruits within two years while others could require up to seven years of growth before they begin producing.
Acquire Seeds
Harvest grape seeds from fruits that are fully ripe by slicing them in half lengthwise. Extract the seeds with the tip of a clean knife or your fingernails, being careful not to harm the seeds in the process. After dropping the seeds into a container of water, allow them to soak for 24 hours, skimming off and discarding all of them that don't sink.
Prepare Seeds
Drain the remaining seeds the following day, and place them inside a small container accompanied by a little damp peat moss. One tablespoon of peat moss should be adequate for up to 50 seeds. After capping the container, leave it in a 35- to 40-degrees Fahrenheit refrigerator for three months. The exposure to cold is called the stratification period.
Sow Seeds
At the end of that time period, open the container and plant the seeds at a depth about three times their length in a flat of damp and sterile seed-starting mix. Ensure the flat has bottom drainage holes, and space the seeds 1 1/2 inches apart from each other. Place the flat under a grow light that runs for 16 hours per day because grape seeds germinate best under long-day conditions, and keep the seed-starting mix damp. If the temperature remains at about 70 F during the day, preferably dropping to 60 F at night, some seeds may germinate, or sprout, within two weeks, though others may take two months or longer to sprout.
Hasten Germination
Reportedly, placing grape seeds in running water eliminates their stratification period requirement because the water washes away their germination inhibitors. Try that technique by inserting damp grape seeds in a small, muslin bag immediately after you harvest the seeds, and place that bag in running water, such as in a "babbling" brook. Tying the bag to a stake may be necessary to prevent the bag from being swept away.
Under those conditions, the seeds can begin to make roots in eight days, after which they should be planted in the same way you would sow stratified seeds that have no roots. Don't leave the seeds in the water longer than 12 days, or their roots will begin to turn brown.
Nourish Seedlings
When the little grapevine seedlings have two sets of leaves, transplant each plant into its own 4-inch-diameter pot filled with a mixture that is 8 parts potting soil, 1 part pumice and 1 part sand. If you like, you can feed them with a plant food recommended for seedlings -- such as 2-3-1-- at one-half the fertilizer package's recommended strength. For the first month, mix 1 tablespoon of 2-3-1 fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Afterward, raise the fertilizer amount to 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Transplant each seedling into its own 1-gallon pot about six weeks after each seedling was moved into the 4-inch-diameter pots.
The young grapevines should be ready to go outdoors when each plant has added six true leaves to its original two leaves, which are seed leaves. Accustom the vines to outdoor conditions by setting their pots in a shady position for a few hours every day at first and then taking them back indoors for the rest of each day. Gradually shift them into more sunlight.
Plant Seedlings
After your location's last average spring frost date, select a position for the grapevines, ensuring the site has full-sun exposure and moderately rich, well-drained soil and is beside an arbor, trellis or fence. Plant the seedlings about 8 to 10 feet apart, making each planting hole wider and deeper than its respective vine's root ball and situating the vines at the same soil depth at which they grew in their pots. Fill the remainder of the holes with the soil you removed to make the holes; ensure the soil around the plants is level with the surrounding ground. Cut each grapevine back to its lowest two leaf buds. Water the plants' soil well, and ensure that they receive at least 1 inch of water per week during their first year.
Work a small amount of balanced fertilizer – about one-fourth of the regular rate – into the soil around each vine. For example, use 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, applying about 3/16 cup every other month from spring through autumn. Increase the fertilizer amount by one-fourth each spring until the grapevines receive the fertilizer package's full recommended amount per feeding – such as 3/4 cup of 5-5-5 organic fertilizer -- in their fourth year.
Acquire Seeds
Harvest grape seeds from fruits that are fully ripe by slicing them in half lengthwise. Extract the seeds with the tip of a clean knife or your fingernails, being careful not to harm the seeds in the process. After dropping the seeds into a container of water, allow them to soak for 24 hours, skimming off and discarding all of them that don't sink.
Prepare Seeds
Drain the remaining seeds the following day, and place them inside a small container accompanied by a little damp peat moss. One tablespoon of peat moss should be adequate for up to 50 seeds. After capping the container, leave it in a 35- to 40-degrees Fahrenheit refrigerator for three months. The exposure to cold is called the stratification period.
Sow Seeds
At the end of that time period, open the container and plant the seeds at a depth about three times their length in a flat of damp and sterile seed-starting mix. Ensure the flat has bottom drainage holes, and space the seeds 1 1/2 inches apart from each other. Place the flat under a grow light that runs for 16 hours per day because grape seeds germinate best under long-day conditions, and keep the seed-starting mix damp. If the temperature remains at about 70 F during the day, preferably dropping to 60 F at night, some seeds may germinate, or sprout, within two weeks, though others may take two months or longer to sprout.
Hasten Germination
Reportedly, placing grape seeds in running water eliminates their stratification period requirement because the water washes away their germination inhibitors. Try that technique by inserting damp grape seeds in a small, muslin bag immediately after you harvest the seeds, and place that bag in running water, such as in a "babbling" brook. Tying the bag to a stake may be necessary to prevent the bag from being swept away.
Under those conditions, the seeds can begin to make roots in eight days, after which they should be planted in the same way you would sow stratified seeds that have no roots. Don't leave the seeds in the water longer than 12 days, or their roots will begin to turn brown.
Nourish Seedlings
When the little grapevine seedlings have two sets of leaves, transplant each plant into its own 4-inch-diameter pot filled with a mixture that is 8 parts potting soil, 1 part pumice and 1 part sand. If you like, you can feed them with a plant food recommended for seedlings -- such as 2-3-1-- at one-half the fertilizer package's recommended strength. For the first month, mix 1 tablespoon of 2-3-1 fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Afterward, raise the fertilizer amount to 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Transplant each seedling into its own 1-gallon pot about six weeks after each seedling was moved into the 4-inch-diameter pots.
The young grapevines should be ready to go outdoors when each plant has added six true leaves to its original two leaves, which are seed leaves. Accustom the vines to outdoor conditions by setting their pots in a shady position for a few hours every day at first and then taking them back indoors for the rest of each day. Gradually shift them into more sunlight.
Plant Seedlings
After your location's last average spring frost date, select a position for the grapevines, ensuring the site has full-sun exposure and moderately rich, well-drained soil and is beside an arbor, trellis or fence. Plant the seedlings about 8 to 10 feet apart, making each planting hole wider and deeper than its respective vine's root ball and situating the vines at the same soil depth at which they grew in their pots. Fill the remainder of the holes with the soil you removed to make the holes; ensure the soil around the plants is level with the surrounding ground. Cut each grapevine back to its lowest two leaf buds. Water the plants' soil well, and ensure that they receive at least 1 inch of water per week during their first year.
Work a small amount of balanced fertilizer – about one-fourth of the regular rate – into the soil around each vine. For example, use 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, applying about 3/16 cup every other month from spring through autumn. Increase the fertilizer amount by one-fourth each spring until the grapevines receive the fertilizer package's full recommended amount per feeding – such as 3/4 cup of 5-5-5 organic fertilizer -- in their fourth year.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Blueberries contain small seeds almost not recognizable in comparison with other berries like raspberries or blackberries. These seeds will actually produce new plants just as they do in the wild setting, slowly carpeting the area with new plants. Blueberries are cold weather plants and need a few months of freezing to break the seed dormancy. Replicate the natural setting of an acid soil and watch the tiny seedlings emerge.
Step 1
Set a plastic bag of 8 oz. blueberries into the freezer for 90 days.
Step 2
Remove the bag from the freezer and empty the blueberries into a kitchen blender. Add 8 oz. water and pulse the blender on high for 15 seconds.
Step 3
Let the mixture settle for five minutes allowing the seeds to drop to the bottom. Pour off the water slowly, taking the pulpy material with it. Add another cup of water, blend, and drain three times.
Step 4
Pour the remaining seeds and water into a sieve lined with a coffee filter. Shake the seeds onto a paper towel to dry for about 30 minutes.
Step 5
Prepare a planting tray by taking finely ground dampened sphagnum moss and spreading it evenly over the surface.
Step 6
Sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the tray and then sprinkle a very fine layer of more ground sphagnum moss about 1/8-inch thick.
Step 7
Sprinkle 4 oz. water over the surface of the tray and then cover with two or three layers of newspaper.
Step 8
Keep in a warm room for a month, until the seeds have sprouted under the paper, making sure to sprinkle the tray with about 4 oz. water every few days, to keep them moist but not soggy.
Step 9
Remove the paper and keep the seedlings under grow lights or near a sunny window, watering them as needed to keep the moss moist until they are about 3 inches high.
Step 10
Transplant the blueberry seedlings into 8-oz. peat pots filled with equal parts sand, dampened peat moss and potting soil, being careful not to break the fragile roots.
Step 11
Fertilize the blueberry seedlings with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions.
Step 12
Move the peat pots outside to a permanent location after the danger of frost has passed, keeping in mind that they need full sun, acid soil, and plenty of water but good drainage.
Step 13
Mulch them for the winter with 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, pine needles or pine bark mulch.
Step 1
Set a plastic bag of 8 oz. blueberries into the freezer for 90 days.
Step 2
Remove the bag from the freezer and empty the blueberries into a kitchen blender. Add 8 oz. water and pulse the blender on high for 15 seconds.
Step 3
Let the mixture settle for five minutes allowing the seeds to drop to the bottom. Pour off the water slowly, taking the pulpy material with it. Add another cup of water, blend, and drain three times.
Step 4
Pour the remaining seeds and water into a sieve lined with a coffee filter. Shake the seeds onto a paper towel to dry for about 30 minutes.
Step 5
Prepare a planting tray by taking finely ground dampened sphagnum moss and spreading it evenly over the surface.
Step 6
Sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the tray and then sprinkle a very fine layer of more ground sphagnum moss about 1/8-inch thick.
Step 7
Sprinkle 4 oz. water over the surface of the tray and then cover with two or three layers of newspaper.
Step 8
Keep in a warm room for a month, until the seeds have sprouted under the paper, making sure to sprinkle the tray with about 4 oz. water every few days, to keep them moist but not soggy.
Step 9
Remove the paper and keep the seedlings under grow lights or near a sunny window, watering them as needed to keep the moss moist until they are about 3 inches high.
Step 10
Transplant the blueberry seedlings into 8-oz. peat pots filled with equal parts sand, dampened peat moss and potting soil, being careful not to break the fragile roots.
Step 11
Fertilize the blueberry seedlings with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions.
Step 12
Move the peat pots outside to a permanent location after the danger of frost has passed, keeping in mind that they need full sun, acid soil, and plenty of water but good drainage.
Step 13
Mulch them for the winter with 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, pine needles or pine bark mulch.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Concord grapes must have their inedible seeds removed before making juice, jam or eating. The distinctive flavor of Concord grapes sets these apart from seedless varieties of grapes, and the time it takes to remove the seeds will be worth the effort. Concord grapes are easily squeezed from their skins, known as slip-skin, says the Concord Grape Association. This differentiates these grapes from other dark purple grapes.
Step 1
Wash the grapes under running water to remove dirt and residue.
Step 2
Hold a grape between your thumb and forefinger. Squeeze gently so the grape slips out of its skin. Discard the skin and set aside the grape. Repeat with the remaining grapes.
Step 3
Remove the seeds from the grapes for eating the whole fruit. Cut the grapes in half and dig out the seed from each grape for using in recipes.
Step 4
Puree the grapes and remove the seeds for juicing or use in jelly. Set a sieve over a bowl to catch the seeded puree. Force the skinned grapes through a sieve to separate the seeds and use the puree in your recipes. Discard the grape seeds.
Step 1
Wash the grapes under running water to remove dirt and residue.
Step 2
Hold a grape between your thumb and forefinger. Squeeze gently so the grape slips out of its skin. Discard the skin and set aside the grape. Repeat with the remaining grapes.
Step 3
Remove the seeds from the grapes for eating the whole fruit. Cut the grapes in half and dig out the seed from each grape for using in recipes.
Step 4
Puree the grapes and remove the seeds for juicing or use in jelly. Set a sieve over a bowl to catch the seeded puree. Force the skinned grapes through a sieve to separate the seeds and use the puree in your recipes. Discard the grape seeds.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are frost-tender plants, and they're usually grown as an annual crop. Sowing tomato seeds indoors before frosts are over in spring prolongs the growing season, but the warm temperatures and low light levels indoors cause tall, thin, weak tomato seedlings. Starting tomatoes outdoors in shady areas also causes seedlings with those conditions. These leggy seedlings grow into thin-stemmed plants that break under the weight of a heavy crop, but you can fix leggy tomato seedlings when you transplant them into your garden.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月02日
When you look at a strawberry, those little yellow dots that you see evenly coating the outer flesh are actually seeds. Each one of these seeds is capable of germinating into a whole new plant that can provide at least 1 qt. berries. Because strawberry plants are perennials, they will continue to produce bountiful harvests year after year. With a little preparation, you can grow your own strawberry plants indoors from the seeds of the fresh berry.
Step 1
Place one or two fresh strawberries on a paper plate. Set the paper plate in an undisturbed area such as a high shelf or windowsill to dry out.
Step 2
Rub the skin of the strawberry with your hands. As you rub, the strawberry seeds will fall onto the paper plate.
Step 3
Collect the seeds and store them in an envelope inside the refrigerator for 30 days. Cold storage or "stratification" is essential prior to germination.
Step 4
Fill a seed starter tray with organic potting soil. Remove the strawberry seeds from the envelope and press two seeds, ¼ inch into the soil of each cell.
Step 5
Spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle. Place the clear plastic cover on the seed starter tray and set the tray in an area with bright, indirect sunlight.
Step 6
Remove the plastic cover when the strawberry seedlings poke their way through the soil. Germination is usually between four and seven days. Continue to provide the young strawberry plants with bright, indirect sunlight and moist soil as they grow.
Step 1
Place one or two fresh strawberries on a paper plate. Set the paper plate in an undisturbed area such as a high shelf or windowsill to dry out.
Step 2
Rub the skin of the strawberry with your hands. As you rub, the strawberry seeds will fall onto the paper plate.
Step 3
Collect the seeds and store them in an envelope inside the refrigerator for 30 days. Cold storage or "stratification" is essential prior to germination.
Step 4
Fill a seed starter tray with organic potting soil. Remove the strawberry seeds from the envelope and press two seeds, ¼ inch into the soil of each cell.
Step 5
Spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle. Place the clear plastic cover on the seed starter tray and set the tray in an area with bright, indirect sunlight.
Step 6
Remove the plastic cover when the strawberry seedlings poke their way through the soil. Germination is usually between four and seven days. Continue to provide the young strawberry plants with bright, indirect sunlight and moist soil as they grow.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
You can grow strawberries from seeds from a strawberry or from an existing plant. It's generally easier, however, to grow strawberries from plants, because you don't have to put effort into preparing the seeds and sowing them in hopes they germinate. As a result, you often have more success planting an existing plant.
Strawberry Selection
One challenge associated with growing strawberries from seeds is choosing the right strawberries. Although it might be tempting to select strawberries from a particularly great tasting batch, if they were purchased from a local farmer's market or grocery store, it's unlikely you will produce a plant with fruit of the same form and taste. Commercial growers often produce a self-pollinating variety of strawberry that was derived to ensure consistent quality fruit and reliable crop size. The downside to using this strawberry type is it might not replicate the traits of its parents in the new plant and thus the strawberries probably won't taste the same. If possible, select a strawberry from a home garden or wild strawberry patch.
Ripe vs. Unripe Strawberry
Don't plant seeds from unripe or nearly ripe strawberries, which are less likely to germinate and grow into healthy plants. Only use seeds from ripe strawberries and make certain that you plant viable seeds. Test seeds first. Viable seeds sink when placed in water; the others float.
Obtaining Seeds
Before you can plant strawberry seeds, you must separate the seeds from the pulp. Place 1 cup of water and about a pint of strawberries in your blender. Turn it on for about three to five seconds. Let the mixture stand for about one minute or so to allow time for the viable seeds to sink; the other seeds will float along with the pulp. Slowly drain the water from the blender so that only the viable seeds are left inside. Spoon out the remaining seeds, rinse and place them on a paper towel to thoroughly dry. Once dry, the seeds are ready for planting, unless you chose a variety that requires a cold treatment, such as Alpine strawberries. If a cold treatment is necessary, place the seeds, wrapped in a paper towel and then sealed in a tight-fitting container, in the freezer for two to four weeks to simulate winter conditions. Remove the seeds and let them acclimate to room temperature before planting. The process helps speed up germination for certain varieties.
Tip
Use the same care in selecting an existing plant for propagating that you would use in choosing the strawberry variety you want to plant. Base your selection on fruit quality and taste, disease resistance and production. In addition, choose an Alpine or heirloom rather than a hybrid variety if possible. Hybrid varieties produced from strawberry seeds don't always develop fruit of comparable form.
Strawberry Selection
One challenge associated with growing strawberries from seeds is choosing the right strawberries. Although it might be tempting to select strawberries from a particularly great tasting batch, if they were purchased from a local farmer's market or grocery store, it's unlikely you will produce a plant with fruit of the same form and taste. Commercial growers often produce a self-pollinating variety of strawberry that was derived to ensure consistent quality fruit and reliable crop size. The downside to using this strawberry type is it might not replicate the traits of its parents in the new plant and thus the strawberries probably won't taste the same. If possible, select a strawberry from a home garden or wild strawberry patch.
Ripe vs. Unripe Strawberry
Don't plant seeds from unripe or nearly ripe strawberries, which are less likely to germinate and grow into healthy plants. Only use seeds from ripe strawberries and make certain that you plant viable seeds. Test seeds first. Viable seeds sink when placed in water; the others float.
Obtaining Seeds
Before you can plant strawberry seeds, you must separate the seeds from the pulp. Place 1 cup of water and about a pint of strawberries in your blender. Turn it on for about three to five seconds. Let the mixture stand for about one minute or so to allow time for the viable seeds to sink; the other seeds will float along with the pulp. Slowly drain the water from the blender so that only the viable seeds are left inside. Spoon out the remaining seeds, rinse and place them on a paper towel to thoroughly dry. Once dry, the seeds are ready for planting, unless you chose a variety that requires a cold treatment, such as Alpine strawberries. If a cold treatment is necessary, place the seeds, wrapped in a paper towel and then sealed in a tight-fitting container, in the freezer for two to four weeks to simulate winter conditions. Remove the seeds and let them acclimate to room temperature before planting. The process helps speed up germination for certain varieties.
Tip
Use the same care in selecting an existing plant for propagating that you would use in choosing the strawberry variety you want to plant. Base your selection on fruit quality and taste, disease resistance and production. In addition, choose an Alpine or heirloom rather than a hybrid variety if possible. Hybrid varieties produced from strawberry seeds don't always develop fruit of comparable form.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
A strawberry is a vegetable in the strictest scientific sense because the red berries form from a modified receptacle on the strawberry plant's flower instead of from the ovary of the flower. The seeds dotting the berries' exterior are actually the fruit of the flower -- the ripened ovaries. Strawberries are technically false fruits, and many factors contribute to the size, structure and flavor of these false fruits.
Cultivars
The species or cultivar grown determines the size of the berry the plant produces. Three types of strawberries exist. Junebearers produce fruit in June from the flower buds that bloomed the previous fall. Dayneutral strawberry plants continuously bloom and set fruit throughout the summer and fall. Everbearing strawberries produce fruit in the summer and again in the fall. Within each of these categories are cultivars with different fruit characteristics, including the berry size. Veestar, Cornwallis, Sparkle, Tribute and Tristar are cultivars with smaller-than-average berries.
Age
The strawberry plant's age can reduce the size of the berries the plant produces. During the first year of growth, pinch and remove the blooms of Junebearing strawberry plants to prevent berry production. This allows the plant to divert the energy from fruit production to root production in the first year, which makes the plant more stable and results in larger berries the following year. After 3 to 4 years, the berries produced on most strawberry plants will decrease in both size and number, requiring rejuvenation or rotation of the crop.
Nutrients
When a lack of nutrients including water, sunlight or fertilizer stresses a plant during blooming or fruit development, the berries' size is negatively affected. A plant requires sufficient energy to bloom and grow fruit. When the plant does not receive the nutrients, the available energy the plant has is diverted to the processes necessary for survival. Flower blooms and fruit production are reproductive process, not a survival process. A late frost in the spring can damage flowers, interrupting or halting fruit development.
Disease
Strawberries are susceptible to a variety of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, as well as pest infestations. Diseases include verticillium wilt, red stele, mildew, leaf spot and botrytis fruit rot. Insects attracted to strawberry plants include root weevils, aphids, spittlebugs, slugs, birds and spider mites. Depending on the type of infection of infestation, a variety of treatments are available including fungicides, insecticides, bactericides and traps. Most viral infections have no effective treatments and require destruction of the plant.
Cultivars
The species or cultivar grown determines the size of the berry the plant produces. Three types of strawberries exist. Junebearers produce fruit in June from the flower buds that bloomed the previous fall. Dayneutral strawberry plants continuously bloom and set fruit throughout the summer and fall. Everbearing strawberries produce fruit in the summer and again in the fall. Within each of these categories are cultivars with different fruit characteristics, including the berry size. Veestar, Cornwallis, Sparkle, Tribute and Tristar are cultivars with smaller-than-average berries.
Age
The strawberry plant's age can reduce the size of the berries the plant produces. During the first year of growth, pinch and remove the blooms of Junebearing strawberry plants to prevent berry production. This allows the plant to divert the energy from fruit production to root production in the first year, which makes the plant more stable and results in larger berries the following year. After 3 to 4 years, the berries produced on most strawberry plants will decrease in both size and number, requiring rejuvenation or rotation of the crop.
Nutrients
When a lack of nutrients including water, sunlight or fertilizer stresses a plant during blooming or fruit development, the berries' size is negatively affected. A plant requires sufficient energy to bloom and grow fruit. When the plant does not receive the nutrients, the available energy the plant has is diverted to the processes necessary for survival. Flower blooms and fruit production are reproductive process, not a survival process. A late frost in the spring can damage flowers, interrupting or halting fruit development.
Disease
Strawberries are susceptible to a variety of fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, as well as pest infestations. Diseases include verticillium wilt, red stele, mildew, leaf spot and botrytis fruit rot. Insects attracted to strawberry plants include root weevils, aphids, spittlebugs, slugs, birds and spider mites. Depending on the type of infection of infestation, a variety of treatments are available including fungicides, insecticides, bactericides and traps. Most viral infections have no effective treatments and require destruction of the plant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Answers to frequently asked questions about starting seeds indoors
I’VE talked to so many gardeners who are experienced at growing plants outdoors but hesitate to start seeds indoors. To me, starting seeds is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. It gets my hands in the soil (or at least the seed-starting mix) during the dark, cold days of late winter and early spring. And it's so amazing and rewarding to plant a seemingly lifeless seed and watch it sprout and grow. Here are answers to some of the hundreds of questions I've been asked about seed starting. When you see how easy it is, I hope you'll give it a try!
Why start seeds indoors?
Gardeners start their own seeds for all sorts of reasons. First of all, if you start your own seeds, you can plant hard-to-find varieties. You'll likely find fewer than a dozen varieties available as plants at your local garden center, but hundreds more are available as seeds.You can save money, too; a packet of seeds costs a few dollars and usually contains a dozen or more seeds — a single plant often costs more than an entire packet. Nurturing a little patch of green indoors is a great way to beat the winter blues, and I think it's particularly rewarding to grow a plant from seed to harvest.
What seeds are easiest to start indoors?
If you're new to seed starting, begin with easy, reliable seeds, including tomato, pepper, basil, zinnia, marigold, cosmos. These all germinate readily and grow quickly. Once you've mastered these, you can try your hand at more challenging plants.
When should I sow my seeds?
When you're starting seeds indoors, timing is everything. The goal is to grow seedlings that are the ideal size for transplanting into the garden at the proper time. Sowing dates depend on:
your average last spring frost date;
whether the plant prefers cool or warm growing conditions;
how quickly the seed germinates and grows.
Most seed packets suggest a planting time, such as "sow seeds indoors six weeks before your average last frost date." To calculate your planting date, start by determining your average last spring frost date, mark it on a calendar, and count back in one-week increments. Learn more: When to Start Your Seeds
How do I know my last frost date in spring?
The easiest way to find out is to ask a neighbor who's an experienced gardener. You can also contact a local Master Gardener program (part of your state's Cooperative Extension) or ask staff at your local garden center. The date of the actual last spring frost varies from year to year so the "average last spring frost date" is just an approximation, but it gives you a starting point.
Can I grow on a windowsill or do I need special grow lights?
Although it's possible to grow seedlings on a sunny windowsill, you'll get much better results if you grow them under lights. That's because the sunlight in early spring isn't nearly as intense as summer sun, and the days are shorter, too. Seedlings growing on a windowsill will reach for the sun, resulting in long, weak stems that bend toward the light. Plants grown under the consistent, bright fluorescent lights of a light garden, on the other hand, will have strong, stocky stems that will adapt better once they're transplanted into the garden. Learn more: Gardening Under Lights
Can I use garden soil to start seeds?
Garden soil tends to drain poorly, especially when it's used in small seed-starting trays. It can also harbor disease organisms that can damage or kill young seedlings. You'll get the best results by starting seeds in a lightweight mix formulated specially for seed starting, such as Germinating Mix. These mixes drain freely yet retain enough water for seedling roots, and they're free of fungi and other disease-causing organisms. Learn more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.
What type of pot should I use?
While you can start seeds in any container that has drainage holes, specially designed seed-starting pots and trays provide optimal conditions. They let you start lots of seeds in a small space, and they drain freely to prevent rot. Some people prefer biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots; others prefer reusable trays. Self-watering, all-in-one seed-starting systems are convenient and foolproof. Learn more: How to Select the Right Seed Starting System
How deep do I plant the seeds?
Most seed packets tell you how deep to plant. A rule of thumb is to sow seeds two or three times as deep as they are wide. Take care not to plant seeds too deep. A seed contains a limited supply of stored food to nourish it during germination. If you plant it too deep, it will run out of food before it reaches the light and grows big enough to start producing its own. Some seeds require light to germinate; the seed packet should say this. Sow these seeds on the surface of the planting mix.
Which is better, watering from the top or from the bottom?
Bottom watering is usually preferable because it keeps the soil surface dryer, helping prevent disease problems. For small seeds or surface-sown seeds, top misting keeps the surface moist for better germination. Self-watering seed-starting systems, such as our GrowEase Seed Starter Kit, use a wicking fabric to supply water from the bottom, providing a steady supply of just the right amount of water to plant roots. You just fill the reservoir and don't need to worry about over- or under-watering.
When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter?
The greenhouse cover holds in moisture, raising the humidity for fast germination. As soon as you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems.
How close should the grow lights be to the seedlings?
Keep the lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings to promote strong, stocky growth. Our light gardens have adjustable lights that are easy to raise as the seedlings grow.
Do I leave the lights on all the time?
Most seedlings grow best when lights are kept on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. They need a period of darkness (as they would in nature) to rest and prepare for active growth when the lights are back on. An automatic timer makes this easy.
Do I need to thin my seedlings?
A few weeks after seeds start growing, they may start crowding each other. When that happens, it will be time to thin the seedlings. This is the hardest part of seed starting for most gardeners. Choose the strongest seedling and removing the others nearby. This gives the remaining seedling room to grow. Although you can try to separate seedlings and replant, invariably you'll damage some roots, setting back growth. The best way to thin is to snip off extra seedlings at the soil line.
When should I start fertilizing my seedlings?
The first set of leaf-like structures aren't leaves at all, but are the seed's food storage structures, called cotyledons. The second and subsequent sets are true leaves, and they resemble the mature plant's leaves. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves.
How do I know when it's time to transplant into larger pots?
Tomatoes and other fast-growing plants may outgrow their pots before it's time to move them into the garden. About a month after sowing or when seedlings are about 4" tall, gently remove one of the seedlings from its pot. If the roots are beginning to fill the space, then it's time to transplant them into a larger pot. Avoid waiting too long, because root crowding can stunt plant growth and make it difficult for plants to recover after transplanting.
What is "hardening off" and how do I do it?
Hardening off is simply acclimating plants to outdoor conditions. Seedlings grown indoors have been coddled — you've been giving them just the right amount of light, moisture and nutrients. Outdoor conditions are more challenging, with fluctuating temperatures and light levels, more variable soil moisture, and wind. About a week before you plan to set the seedlings into the garden, start hardening them off. Place them in a protected spot outdoors (partly shaded, out of the wind) for a few hours, bringing them in at night. Gradually, over the course of a week or 10 days, expose them to more and more sunshine and wind. A cold frame is a great place to harden off plants.
What Went Wrong?
EVEN the most experienced seed starters occasionally have problems. Here are some symptoms, and possible causes.
Poor germination. Although most common vegetables and annual flowers germinate readily, some types of plants have notoriously poor germination rates. Often, this is indicated on the seed packet (with the suggestion to sow extra seed). First of all, be sure you've given plants enough time to germinate. At sowing time, mark the pots with the type of plant, date of sowing, and days to germination (found on the seed packet). Some seeds take two weeks or more to sprout. Poor germination can be caused by overly wet or cold soil, which causes seeds to rot. (The latter can be remedied with a Heat Mat.) If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have been able to absorb enough moisture to sprout. And if the soil dried out even once after they began growing, the fragile new roots may have died before the shoot even emerged above the soil. Poor germination can also be caused by out-dated seed, and seed that hasn't been properly stored.
Damping off. If, after a few days, some of your seedlings keel over, as though a tiny lumberjack felled them at the soil line, then you're probably seeing the effects of damping off. This is caused by soil-borne fungi attacking the stem. There's no cure, and the seeds won't resprout. Start over with clean containers and sterile seed-starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings, and place a fan in the room for good air circulation. To disinfect used containers, sterilize them in a 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water.) To learn more, read the article Damping Off
Mold and algae growth. If you see fuzzy white growth or slimy green patches on the surface of the planting mix, or on the outside of biodegradable pots, it's probably mold or algae. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed-starting mix is too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and use a small fan in the room to increase air circulation.
Pale, stretched-out seedlings with weak stems. "Leggy" seedlings are often the result of inadequate light, both in intensity and duration. Place plants under grow lights, arranging them so the lights are a few inches above the tops of the plants, and keep the lights on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. Leggy plants can also result from too-warm room temperatures and overcrowding. Inadequate fertilizing can lead to pale, weak-stemmed plants.
Discolored leaves. If seedling foliage is pale green, yellowish green, or has a purple cast to it, the plants may need a nutrient boost. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves. Use a water-soluble fertilizer that's diluted to half-strength, applying weekly for the first few weeks. After that, you can go up to full strength applied weekly. (Be sure to follow the label directions for dilution rates.)
I’VE talked to so many gardeners who are experienced at growing plants outdoors but hesitate to start seeds indoors. To me, starting seeds is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. It gets my hands in the soil (or at least the seed-starting mix) during the dark, cold days of late winter and early spring. And it's so amazing and rewarding to plant a seemingly lifeless seed and watch it sprout and grow. Here are answers to some of the hundreds of questions I've been asked about seed starting. When you see how easy it is, I hope you'll give it a try!
Why start seeds indoors?
Gardeners start their own seeds for all sorts of reasons. First of all, if you start your own seeds, you can plant hard-to-find varieties. You'll likely find fewer than a dozen varieties available as plants at your local garden center, but hundreds more are available as seeds.You can save money, too; a packet of seeds costs a few dollars and usually contains a dozen or more seeds — a single plant often costs more than an entire packet. Nurturing a little patch of green indoors is a great way to beat the winter blues, and I think it's particularly rewarding to grow a plant from seed to harvest.
What seeds are easiest to start indoors?
If you're new to seed starting, begin with easy, reliable seeds, including tomato, pepper, basil, zinnia, marigold, cosmos. These all germinate readily and grow quickly. Once you've mastered these, you can try your hand at more challenging plants.
When should I sow my seeds?
When you're starting seeds indoors, timing is everything. The goal is to grow seedlings that are the ideal size for transplanting into the garden at the proper time. Sowing dates depend on:
your average last spring frost date;
whether the plant prefers cool or warm growing conditions;
how quickly the seed germinates and grows.
Most seed packets suggest a planting time, such as "sow seeds indoors six weeks before your average last frost date." To calculate your planting date, start by determining your average last spring frost date, mark it on a calendar, and count back in one-week increments. Learn more: When to Start Your Seeds
How do I know my last frost date in spring?
The easiest way to find out is to ask a neighbor who's an experienced gardener. You can also contact a local Master Gardener program (part of your state's Cooperative Extension) or ask staff at your local garden center. The date of the actual last spring frost varies from year to year so the "average last spring frost date" is just an approximation, but it gives you a starting point.
Can I grow on a windowsill or do I need special grow lights?
Although it's possible to grow seedlings on a sunny windowsill, you'll get much better results if you grow them under lights. That's because the sunlight in early spring isn't nearly as intense as summer sun, and the days are shorter, too. Seedlings growing on a windowsill will reach for the sun, resulting in long, weak stems that bend toward the light. Plants grown under the consistent, bright fluorescent lights of a light garden, on the other hand, will have strong, stocky stems that will adapt better once they're transplanted into the garden. Learn more: Gardening Under Lights
Can I use garden soil to start seeds?
Garden soil tends to drain poorly, especially when it's used in small seed-starting trays. It can also harbor disease organisms that can damage or kill young seedlings. You'll get the best results by starting seeds in a lightweight mix formulated specially for seed starting, such as Germinating Mix. These mixes drain freely yet retain enough water for seedling roots, and they're free of fungi and other disease-causing organisms. Learn more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.
What type of pot should I use?
While you can start seeds in any container that has drainage holes, specially designed seed-starting pots and trays provide optimal conditions. They let you start lots of seeds in a small space, and they drain freely to prevent rot. Some people prefer biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots; others prefer reusable trays. Self-watering, all-in-one seed-starting systems are convenient and foolproof. Learn more: How to Select the Right Seed Starting System
How deep do I plant the seeds?
Most seed packets tell you how deep to plant. A rule of thumb is to sow seeds two or three times as deep as they are wide. Take care not to plant seeds too deep. A seed contains a limited supply of stored food to nourish it during germination. If you plant it too deep, it will run out of food before it reaches the light and grows big enough to start producing its own. Some seeds require light to germinate; the seed packet should say this. Sow these seeds on the surface of the planting mix.
Which is better, watering from the top or from the bottom?
Bottom watering is usually preferable because it keeps the soil surface dryer, helping prevent disease problems. For small seeds or surface-sown seeds, top misting keeps the surface moist for better germination. Self-watering seed-starting systems, such as our GrowEase Seed Starter Kit, use a wicking fabric to supply water from the bottom, providing a steady supply of just the right amount of water to plant roots. You just fill the reservoir and don't need to worry about over- or under-watering.
When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter?
The greenhouse cover holds in moisture, raising the humidity for fast germination. As soon as you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems.
How close should the grow lights be to the seedlings?
Keep the lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings to promote strong, stocky growth. Our light gardens have adjustable lights that are easy to raise as the seedlings grow.
Do I leave the lights on all the time?
Most seedlings grow best when lights are kept on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. They need a period of darkness (as they would in nature) to rest and prepare for active growth when the lights are back on. An automatic timer makes this easy.
Do I need to thin my seedlings?
A few weeks after seeds start growing, they may start crowding each other. When that happens, it will be time to thin the seedlings. This is the hardest part of seed starting for most gardeners. Choose the strongest seedling and removing the others nearby. This gives the remaining seedling room to grow. Although you can try to separate seedlings and replant, invariably you'll damage some roots, setting back growth. The best way to thin is to snip off extra seedlings at the soil line.
When should I start fertilizing my seedlings?
The first set of leaf-like structures aren't leaves at all, but are the seed's food storage structures, called cotyledons. The second and subsequent sets are true leaves, and they resemble the mature plant's leaves. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves.
How do I know when it's time to transplant into larger pots?
Tomatoes and other fast-growing plants may outgrow their pots before it's time to move them into the garden. About a month after sowing or when seedlings are about 4" tall, gently remove one of the seedlings from its pot. If the roots are beginning to fill the space, then it's time to transplant them into a larger pot. Avoid waiting too long, because root crowding can stunt plant growth and make it difficult for plants to recover after transplanting.
What is "hardening off" and how do I do it?
Hardening off is simply acclimating plants to outdoor conditions. Seedlings grown indoors have been coddled — you've been giving them just the right amount of light, moisture and nutrients. Outdoor conditions are more challenging, with fluctuating temperatures and light levels, more variable soil moisture, and wind. About a week before you plan to set the seedlings into the garden, start hardening them off. Place them in a protected spot outdoors (partly shaded, out of the wind) for a few hours, bringing them in at night. Gradually, over the course of a week or 10 days, expose them to more and more sunshine and wind. A cold frame is a great place to harden off plants.
What Went Wrong?
EVEN the most experienced seed starters occasionally have problems. Here are some symptoms, and possible causes.
Poor germination. Although most common vegetables and annual flowers germinate readily, some types of plants have notoriously poor germination rates. Often, this is indicated on the seed packet (with the suggestion to sow extra seed). First of all, be sure you've given plants enough time to germinate. At sowing time, mark the pots with the type of plant, date of sowing, and days to germination (found on the seed packet). Some seeds take two weeks or more to sprout. Poor germination can be caused by overly wet or cold soil, which causes seeds to rot. (The latter can be remedied with a Heat Mat.) If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have been able to absorb enough moisture to sprout. And if the soil dried out even once after they began growing, the fragile new roots may have died before the shoot even emerged above the soil. Poor germination can also be caused by out-dated seed, and seed that hasn't been properly stored.
Damping off. If, after a few days, some of your seedlings keel over, as though a tiny lumberjack felled them at the soil line, then you're probably seeing the effects of damping off. This is caused by soil-borne fungi attacking the stem. There's no cure, and the seeds won't resprout. Start over with clean containers and sterile seed-starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings, and place a fan in the room for good air circulation. To disinfect used containers, sterilize them in a 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water.) To learn more, read the article Damping Off
Mold and algae growth. If you see fuzzy white growth or slimy green patches on the surface of the planting mix, or on the outside of biodegradable pots, it's probably mold or algae. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed-starting mix is too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and use a small fan in the room to increase air circulation.
Pale, stretched-out seedlings with weak stems. "Leggy" seedlings are often the result of inadequate light, both in intensity and duration. Place plants under grow lights, arranging them so the lights are a few inches above the tops of the plants, and keep the lights on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. Leggy plants can also result from too-warm room temperatures and overcrowding. Inadequate fertilizing can lead to pale, weak-stemmed plants.
Discolored leaves. If seedling foliage is pale green, yellowish green, or has a purple cast to it, the plants may need a nutrient boost. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves. Use a water-soluble fertilizer that's diluted to half-strength, applying weekly for the first few weeks. After that, you can go up to full strength applied weekly. (Be sure to follow the label directions for dilution rates.)
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
IF you want to grow flowers from seed, start with sweet peas. The large seeds are easy to manage and most varieties germinate readily. Plus, the resulting blooms are gorgeous and sweetly scented.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing plants from seed is not as hard as you might think – even though many of us have tried and failed! One of the most common mistakes people make is planting the seeds too deeply. You should only plant a seed as deep in the soil as the seed is wide. When seeds are planted too deeply the tiny plants emerge and begin to grow but do not reach the surface before they run out of stored food. Follow these instructions for growing cacti from seed and you will surely be successful.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Echinocactus grusonii, better known as Golden Barrel Cactus, gets its common name from its barrel-like shape. It typically reaches 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) in diameter and up to 36 inches (90 cm) in height.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
1. Soak Golden Barrel Cactus seeds overnight in room-temperature water. Soaking seeds will help increase germination rates.
2. Fill a seed tray three-fourths of the way with slightly moist potting medium made with 1 part sand and 1 part high-quality potting soil.
3. Scatter two or three seeds per seed compartment on top of the soil. Then, cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand.
4. Slip the seed tray into a plastic bag and tie it closed with a twist tie. Place the tray in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, that is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 27 degrees Celsius).
5. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination. Spraying the soil with a mister or spray bottle, rather than watering it from the top, will help prevent the soil and seeds from becoming too wet. After the seedlings emerge, you can take off the bag and set the tray into a sunny area until they are several inches tall and large enough to transplant to a larger container.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
1. Soak Golden Barrel Cactus seeds overnight in room-temperature water. Soaking seeds will help increase germination rates.
2. Fill a seed tray three-fourths of the way with slightly moist potting medium made with 1 part sand and 1 part high-quality potting soil.
3. Scatter two or three seeds per seed compartment on top of the soil. Then, cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand.
4. Slip the seed tray into a plastic bag and tie it closed with a twist tie. Place the tray in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, that is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 27 degrees Celsius).
5. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination. Spraying the soil with a mister or spray bottle, rather than watering it from the top, will help prevent the soil and seeds from becoming too wet. After the seedlings emerge, you can take off the bag and set the tray into a sunny area until they are several inches tall and large enough to transplant to a larger container.
1
1
