文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Cabbage worms are the larval form of the Cabbage White butterfly (Pieris rapae, or Artogeia rapae). There are several types of worms that are called cabbage worms, but two species are the most common and most damaging to garden vegetables. In addition to cabbage, the worms can feed extensively broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, radishes, turnips, rutabagas, and kohlrabi.
Appearance
It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you'll start seeing damage to your brassicas (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.)
Butterfly: Off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across.
Larva (which is the form that does the actual damage): Velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long.
Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.
Life Cycle
The larva builds a chrysalis in the fall and hatches as the Cabbage White butterfly in spring. The butterfly feeds on nectar and lays single eggs on the undersides of plants of the brassicas family. The eggs hatch in five to seven days. The larva (cabbage worm) feeds voraciously on brassicas, building up the energy to make its chrysalis and metamorphize over the winter.
Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation
Because of their voracious appetite, an "infestation" can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out.
They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.
Effect on Garden Plants
A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat, the more compromised becomes the plant's ability to photosynthesize. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly but won't render them inedible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.
Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms
While there are standard full-spectrum chemical pesticides that will control cabbage worms, the better strategy is to employ one of several different organic solutions:
Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find. If you have a serious infestation, purchase bacillus thuringiensis (BT) from your garden center and apply it according to the directions.
To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.
To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head.
To repel the pests, dry a repellant drench made from a puree of spearmint, green onion, garlic, horseradish, hot peppers, peppercorns and water mixed in a blender. Then add one tablespoon of liquid soap per quart of mix and spray it onto the plants.
Make a caterpillar deterrent citrus spray by grinding up rinds and seeds of any citrus fruit, and soak it overnight in two cups of water. Strain the pulp and add two teaspoons liquid soap to the mixture and spray onto the plants.
Appearance
It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you'll start seeing damage to your brassicas (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.)
Butterfly: Off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across.
Larva (which is the form that does the actual damage): Velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long.
Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.
Life Cycle
The larva builds a chrysalis in the fall and hatches as the Cabbage White butterfly in spring. The butterfly feeds on nectar and lays single eggs on the undersides of plants of the brassicas family. The eggs hatch in five to seven days. The larva (cabbage worm) feeds voraciously on brassicas, building up the energy to make its chrysalis and metamorphize over the winter.
Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation
Because of their voracious appetite, an "infestation" can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out.
They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.
Effect on Garden Plants
A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat, the more compromised becomes the plant's ability to photosynthesize. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly but won't render them inedible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.
Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms
While there are standard full-spectrum chemical pesticides that will control cabbage worms, the better strategy is to employ one of several different organic solutions:
Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find. If you have a serious infestation, purchase bacillus thuringiensis (BT) from your garden center and apply it according to the directions.
To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.
To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head.
To repel the pests, dry a repellant drench made from a puree of spearmint, green onion, garlic, horseradish, hot peppers, peppercorns and water mixed in a blender. Then add one tablespoon of liquid soap per quart of mix and spray it onto the plants.
Make a caterpillar deterrent citrus spray by grinding up rinds and seeds of any citrus fruit, and soak it overnight in two cups of water. Strain the pulp and add two teaspoons liquid soap to the mixture and spray onto the plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Description
Garden aphids, also known as plant lice, include many different species in the Aphidoidea insect family. Aphids are very small--roughly 1/10th of an inch long. The most common colors are green and black, though brown, reddish-brown, and gray aphids inhabit some parts of the country. They have two long, tubular appendages on the tail end of their body.
Life Cycle
Aphid eggs overwinter attached to plants, then hatch as nymphs in the spring.
These nymphs then produce eggs asexually, producing more nymphs that grow to maturity in just one week. Then, in the fall the nymphs will lay eggs that contain some male aphids. These males then mate with the nymphs to produce the eggs that will overwinter and start the next generation of aphids. Mature aphids lay three to six eggs per day. The rapid asexual reproduction cycle during the growing season is what leads to the rapid and widespread infestation so familiar to many gardeners.
Signs of Aphid Infestation
Aphids suck the sap out of tender plant shoots and leaves using beak-like mouths, injecting the leaves with their saliva as they do so. The damage to plants is twofold: drinking the sap can weaken the plant, and injecting the saliva can spread diseases from plant to plant. In addition, aphids excrete a sticky, clear substance called "honey dew" which commonly fosters the development sooty mold.
Sooty mold is unsightly and interferes with the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Because aphids are so tiny, sometimes the first sign that massive infestation is pending is the sign of many ants on your plants. The honeydew secretion is much prized as a food by ants, so when you see many ants on plants, there is a very good likelihood that aphids are also present.
Effect on Garden Plants
Aphids can weaken a plant, stunt its growth, cause leaves to curl or wilt, and delay fruit or flower production. In general, an overall anemic appearance to your plants when there is not water shortage or other obvious reason will strongly hint that aphids are to blame.
Organic Controls for Aphids
There are a number of non-chemical ways to combat or discourage aphid infestations.
Sometimes, a strong blast of water from the hose will knock the aphids off of a plant and solve the problem.
If you attract or purchase certain beneficial insects, such as lady bugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps or damsel bugs, they will attack the aphids. For this reason, fewer chemical pesticides used in the garden can paradoxically reduce the severity of aphid infestations. A more diverse insect population generally keeps aphid attacks at bay. Plantings mint, fennel, dill, yarrow and dandelions will attract these predators to your garden. Ants are natural enemies of predatory insects, so you may need to control ants in order to maximize the hunting ability of the beneficials.
Plants can also be sprayed with insecticidal soap, or a homemade tomato leaf or garlic spray to kill aphids, but must be reapplied when the infestations reappear.
Some biological insecticides based on fungi are known to work on aphids.
If You Use Chemical Solutions
Aphids are easily killed by standard chemical pesticides, but because they are so prolific and will reinfest so readily, gardeners who try to rely on chemicals often find that their problems are intensified over the long run, as the chemicals must be reapplied often and will also destroy populations of beneficial insects and discourage other aphid predators, such as insect-eating birds.
Many gardeners find that an adapted form of the integrated pest management (IPM) practice used by commercial agriculture is a good approach for home gardening. Under this philosophy, some degree of plant damage is deemed acceptable as the price paid for a diverse gardening culture in which the presence of many insect species tends to prevent any one pest from causing overwhelming damage.
Over the long run, minimal use of chemical pesticides tends to produce an overall healthier garden, albeit one in which small levels of insect damage may be present.
Garden aphids, also known as plant lice, include many different species in the Aphidoidea insect family. Aphids are very small--roughly 1/10th of an inch long. The most common colors are green and black, though brown, reddish-brown, and gray aphids inhabit some parts of the country. They have two long, tubular appendages on the tail end of their body.
Life Cycle
Aphid eggs overwinter attached to plants, then hatch as nymphs in the spring.
These nymphs then produce eggs asexually, producing more nymphs that grow to maturity in just one week. Then, in the fall the nymphs will lay eggs that contain some male aphids. These males then mate with the nymphs to produce the eggs that will overwinter and start the next generation of aphids. Mature aphids lay three to six eggs per day. The rapid asexual reproduction cycle during the growing season is what leads to the rapid and widespread infestation so familiar to many gardeners.
Signs of Aphid Infestation
Aphids suck the sap out of tender plant shoots and leaves using beak-like mouths, injecting the leaves with their saliva as they do so. The damage to plants is twofold: drinking the sap can weaken the plant, and injecting the saliva can spread diseases from plant to plant. In addition, aphids excrete a sticky, clear substance called "honey dew" which commonly fosters the development sooty mold.
Sooty mold is unsightly and interferes with the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Because aphids are so tiny, sometimes the first sign that massive infestation is pending is the sign of many ants on your plants. The honeydew secretion is much prized as a food by ants, so when you see many ants on plants, there is a very good likelihood that aphids are also present.
Effect on Garden Plants
Aphids can weaken a plant, stunt its growth, cause leaves to curl or wilt, and delay fruit or flower production. In general, an overall anemic appearance to your plants when there is not water shortage or other obvious reason will strongly hint that aphids are to blame.
Organic Controls for Aphids
There are a number of non-chemical ways to combat or discourage aphid infestations.
Sometimes, a strong blast of water from the hose will knock the aphids off of a plant and solve the problem.
If you attract or purchase certain beneficial insects, such as lady bugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps or damsel bugs, they will attack the aphids. For this reason, fewer chemical pesticides used in the garden can paradoxically reduce the severity of aphid infestations. A more diverse insect population generally keeps aphid attacks at bay. Plantings mint, fennel, dill, yarrow and dandelions will attract these predators to your garden. Ants are natural enemies of predatory insects, so you may need to control ants in order to maximize the hunting ability of the beneficials.
Plants can also be sprayed with insecticidal soap, or a homemade tomato leaf or garlic spray to kill aphids, but must be reapplied when the infestations reappear.
Some biological insecticides based on fungi are known to work on aphids.
If You Use Chemical Solutions
Aphids are easily killed by standard chemical pesticides, but because they are so prolific and will reinfest so readily, gardeners who try to rely on chemicals often find that their problems are intensified over the long run, as the chemicals must be reapplied often and will also destroy populations of beneficial insects and discourage other aphid predators, such as insect-eating birds.
Many gardeners find that an adapted form of the integrated pest management (IPM) practice used by commercial agriculture is a good approach for home gardening. Under this philosophy, some degree of plant damage is deemed acceptable as the price paid for a diverse gardening culture in which the presence of many insect species tends to prevent any one pest from causing overwhelming damage.
Over the long run, minimal use of chemical pesticides tends to produce an overall healthier garden, albeit one in which small levels of insect damage may be present.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Ohio’s state tree and the symbol for Ohio State University’s intercollegiate athletics, Ohio buckeye trees (Aesculus glabra) are the best known of the 13 species of buckeyes. Other members of the genus include medium to large trees such as the horse chestnut (A. hippocastanum) and large shrubs like the red buckeye (A. pavia). Read on for information about buckeye tree planting and some interesting buckeye tree facts.
Buckeye Tree Facts
Buckeye leaves are made up of five leaflets that are arranged like spread fingers on a hand. They are bright green when they emerge and darken as they age. The flowers, which are arranged in long panicles, bloom in spring. Green, leathery fruit replace the flowers in summer. Buckeyes are one of the first trees to leaf out in spring, and also the first to drop their foliage in fall. Most of the trees in North America called “chestnuts” are actually horse chestnuts or buckeyes. A fungal blight wiped out most of the true chestnuts between 1900 and 1940 and very few specimens survived. The nuts from buckeyes and horse chestnuts are poisonous to humans.
How to Plant a Buckeye Tree
Plant buckeye trees in spring or fall. They grow well in full sun or partial shade and adapt to most any soil, but they don’t like an extremely dry environment. Dig the hole deep enough to accommodate the root ball and at least twice as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, lay a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole to make sure the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil. Trees that are buried too deep are susceptible to rot. Backfill the hole with unamended soil. There is no need to fertilize or add soil amendments until the following spring.
Water deeply and in the absence of rain, following up with weekly waterings until the tree is established and beginning to grow. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree will help keep the soil evenly moist. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the trunk to discourage rot. The main reason you don’t see more buckeyes as a yard tree is the litter they create. From dead flowers to leaves to the leathery and sometimes spiny fruit, it seems that something is always falling from the trees. Most property owners prefer to grow buckeyes in woodland settings and out-of-the-way areas.
Buckeye Tree Facts
Buckeye leaves are made up of five leaflets that are arranged like spread fingers on a hand. They are bright green when they emerge and darken as they age. The flowers, which are arranged in long panicles, bloom in spring. Green, leathery fruit replace the flowers in summer. Buckeyes are one of the first trees to leaf out in spring, and also the first to drop their foliage in fall. Most of the trees in North America called “chestnuts” are actually horse chestnuts or buckeyes. A fungal blight wiped out most of the true chestnuts between 1900 and 1940 and very few specimens survived. The nuts from buckeyes and horse chestnuts are poisonous to humans.
How to Plant a Buckeye Tree
Plant buckeye trees in spring or fall. They grow well in full sun or partial shade and adapt to most any soil, but they don’t like an extremely dry environment. Dig the hole deep enough to accommodate the root ball and at least twice as wide. When you set the tree in the hole, lay a yardstick or flat tool handle across the hole to make sure the soil line on the tree is even with the surrounding soil. Trees that are buried too deep are susceptible to rot. Backfill the hole with unamended soil. There is no need to fertilize or add soil amendments until the following spring.
Water deeply and in the absence of rain, following up with weekly waterings until the tree is established and beginning to grow. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree will help keep the soil evenly moist. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the trunk to discourage rot. The main reason you don’t see more buckeyes as a yard tree is the litter they create. From dead flowers to leaves to the leathery and sometimes spiny fruit, it seems that something is always falling from the trees. Most property owners prefer to grow buckeyes in woodland settings and out-of-the-way areas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Here’s a species of tree you might not see growing wild in your area. Kurrajong bottle trees (Brachychiton populneus) are hardy evergreens from Australia with bottle-shaped trunks that the tree uses for water storage. The trees are also called lacebark Kurrajongs. This is because the bark of the young trees stretch over time, and the old bark forms lacy patterns on the new bark beneath. Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is not difficult since the species is tolerant of most soils. Read on for more information about bottle tree care.
Kurrajong Tree Info
The Australian bottle tree is a pretty specimen with a rounded canopy. It rises to some 50 feet high and wide, offering an evergreen canopy of shiny, lance-shaped or lobed leaves several inches long. It is fairly common to see leaves with three lobes or even five lobes, and Kurrajong bottle trees do not have thorns. The bell-shaped flowers are even more attractive when they arrive in early spring. They are creamy white, or off-white, and decorated with pink or red dots. In time, the flowers of the Australian bottle tree develop into edible seeds that grow encased in pods. The pods themselves appear in clusters in a star pattern. The seeds are hairy but, otherwise, look something like corn kernels. These are used as food by the Australia aborigines.
Bottle Tree Care
Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is a rapid business, since this little tree gets to its mature height and breadth in no time. The principal growing requirement of the Australian bottle tree is sunshine; it cannot grow in shade. In most ways the tree is undemanding. It accepts almost any type of well-drained soil in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, including clay, sand and loam. It grows in dry soil or moist soil, and tolerates both acidic and alkaline soil.
However, if you are planting an Australian bottle tree, plant it in direct sun in a moderately fertile soil for best results. Avoid wet soil or shady areas. Kurrajong bottle trees are not demanding about irrigation either. Bottle tree care involves providing moderate amounts of water in dry weather. The trunks of Kurrajong bottle trees store water, when it is available.
Kurrajong Tree Info
The Australian bottle tree is a pretty specimen with a rounded canopy. It rises to some 50 feet high and wide, offering an evergreen canopy of shiny, lance-shaped or lobed leaves several inches long. It is fairly common to see leaves with three lobes or even five lobes, and Kurrajong bottle trees do not have thorns. The bell-shaped flowers are even more attractive when they arrive in early spring. They are creamy white, or off-white, and decorated with pink or red dots. In time, the flowers of the Australian bottle tree develop into edible seeds that grow encased in pods. The pods themselves appear in clusters in a star pattern. The seeds are hairy but, otherwise, look something like corn kernels. These are used as food by the Australia aborigines.
Bottle Tree Care
Growing a Kurrajong bottle tree is a rapid business, since this little tree gets to its mature height and breadth in no time. The principal growing requirement of the Australian bottle tree is sunshine; it cannot grow in shade. In most ways the tree is undemanding. It accepts almost any type of well-drained soil in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, including clay, sand and loam. It grows in dry soil or moist soil, and tolerates both acidic and alkaline soil.
However, if you are planting an Australian bottle tree, plant it in direct sun in a moderately fertile soil for best results. Avoid wet soil or shady areas. Kurrajong bottle trees are not demanding about irrigation either. Bottle tree care involves providing moderate amounts of water in dry weather. The trunks of Kurrajong bottle trees store water, when it is available.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are big, graceful trees that are relatively low-maintenance and hardy enough to grow in a variety of conditions. While the long, slender branches of most willow tree species lend themselves to creation of beautiful woven baskets, certain larger willow species are preferred by weavers around the world. Read on to learn more about growing willow plants for baskets.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow scab disease attacks different types of willow species in Europe and the United States. It can attack weeping willows but is not one of the more common weeping willow diseases. Willow scab is caused by the fungus Venturia salciperda. Scab on willow trees usually doesn’t cause serious harm unless the black canker fungus (Glomerella miyabeanais) is also present. Read on to learn about how to recognize and how to treat willow scab.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
Scab on Willow Trees
Willow scab is a fungal disease that causes leaf symptoms, followed by brown spore masses at the base of leaves. The symptoms of scab on willow start with dark spots on the leaves. These can be brown or black, and cause the leaves to wilt, shrivel up and die.
In time, as the willow scab disease progresses, the fungus spreads to the stem tissue at the bases of leave petioles. There, it forms olive-brown velvety spore masses. This happens most often in wet spring weather. Look on the underside of the leaves and along the rib and veins for these fruiting bodies. Although scab on willow trees can attack any almost any Salix tree, it is not considered one of the common weeping willow diseases. In fact, weeping willows (Salix babylonica) are the most resistant willow species to this disease.
How to Treat Willow Scab
Willow scab disease causes only minor damage to your trees if they are healthy. However, repeated infections may slow a willow’s growth and reduce its vigor. If you are wondering about whether effective willow scab treatment exists, you’ll be happy to hear that it does. You can control willow scab on your backyard willows with a combination of good cultural practices and chemical applications. How to treat willow scab with cultural practices? First, you’ll need to trim out all of the infected parts of the willow tree, including stems and twigs. Don’t forget to sterilize your pruners with a bleach and water mixture to avoid spreading the fungus.
In addition, keep your trees vigorous with sufficient irrigation and regular fertilizer. The disease does much less damage to healthy trees than vulnerable ones. Finally, properly timed fungicide applications can be part of your willow scab treatment. This is especially important if your tree is also infected by the black canker fungus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
What is Tamarix? Also known as tamarisk, Tamarix is a small shrub or tree marked by slender branches; tiny, grayish-green leaves and pale pink or off-white blooms. Tamarix reaches heights of up to 20 feet, although some species are much smaller. Read on for more Tamarix information.
Tamarix Information and Uses
Tamarix (Tamarix spp.) is a graceful, fast-growing tree that tolerates desert heat, freezing winters, drought and both alkaline and saline soil, although it prefers sandy loam. Most species are deciduous. Tamarix in the landscape works well as a hedge or windbreak, although the tree can appear somewhat scruffy during the winter months. Because of its long taproot and dense growth habit, uses for Tamarix include erosion control, particularly on dry, sloped areas. It also does well in saline conditions.
Is Tamarix Invasive?
Before planting Tamarix, keep in mind that the plant has high potential for invasiveness in USDA growing zones 8 through 10. Tamarix is a non-native plant that has escaped its boundaries and, as a result, has created serious problems in mild climates, especially in riparian areas where the dense thickets crowd out native plants and the long taproots draw large amounts of water from the soil. The plant also absorbs salt from the groundwater, accumulates it in the leaves, and eventually deposits the salt back to the soil, often in concentrations high enough to be harmful to native vegetation.
Tamarix is extremely difficult to control, as it spreads by roots, stem fragments and seeds, which are dispersed by water and wind. Tamarix is listed as a noxious weed in nearly all western states and is extremely problematic in the Southwest, where it has severely reduced underground water levels and threatened many native species. However, Athel tamarix (Tamarix aphylla), also known as saltcedar or athel tree, is an evergreen species often used as an ornamental. It tends to be less invasive than other species.
Tamarix Information and Uses
Tamarix (Tamarix spp.) is a graceful, fast-growing tree that tolerates desert heat, freezing winters, drought and both alkaline and saline soil, although it prefers sandy loam. Most species are deciduous. Tamarix in the landscape works well as a hedge or windbreak, although the tree can appear somewhat scruffy during the winter months. Because of its long taproot and dense growth habit, uses for Tamarix include erosion control, particularly on dry, sloped areas. It also does well in saline conditions.
Is Tamarix Invasive?
Before planting Tamarix, keep in mind that the plant has high potential for invasiveness in USDA growing zones 8 through 10. Tamarix is a non-native plant that has escaped its boundaries and, as a result, has created serious problems in mild climates, especially in riparian areas where the dense thickets crowd out native plants and the long taproots draw large amounts of water from the soil. The plant also absorbs salt from the groundwater, accumulates it in the leaves, and eventually deposits the salt back to the soil, often in concentrations high enough to be harmful to native vegetation.
Tamarix is extremely difficult to control, as it spreads by roots, stem fragments and seeds, which are dispersed by water and wind. Tamarix is listed as a noxious weed in nearly all western states and is extremely problematic in the Southwest, where it has severely reduced underground water levels and threatened many native species. However, Athel tamarix (Tamarix aphylla), also known as saltcedar or athel tree, is an evergreen species often used as an ornamental. It tends to be less invasive than other species.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
When you think of Florida, you immediately think of palm trees. However, not all palm species do well in colder regions of the state where temperatures may dip down to 5 F. (-15 C.). Pindo palm trees (Butia capitata) are one type of palm that will tolerate cooler temperatures and can even be found along the East Coast up to the Carolinas. Let’s find out how to care for a pindo palm.
Hardy Pindo Info
Pindo palms, also known as jelly palms, grow slowly to a mature height of 15-20 feet with a trunk diameter of 1 to 1 1/2 feet. Flowers can be red, white or yellow and occur in groups of two male flowers and one female flower. The fruit of this graceful palm is light orange to brownish red and can be used to make jelly. The seeds can even be roasted for a coffee substitute. Pindo palms are often used as a specimen tree and draw a variety of wildlife with their sweet fruit.
Growing Pindo Palm Trees
Pindo palms will grow in full sun or partial shade and any type of soil as long as it is moderately salt tolerant and has good drainage. Falling fruit can make a mess, so it is recommended that pindo palms be planted at least ten feet from decks, patios or paved surfaces. Since these trees grow so slowly, it is best to buy at least a three-year-old nursery stock tree unless you are extremely patient.
How to Care of a Pindo Palm
Pindo palm care is not difficult at all. There are no diseases or insect problems with this tree, other than the odd micro-nutrient deficiency. Regular fertilization will help keep the pindo palm looking its best. Pindo palms are able to survive hot and windy conditions, but it is always best to keep the soil adequately moist. This Brazil native requires some pruning of dead fronds to keep its appearance tidy.
Hardy Pindo Info
Pindo palms, also known as jelly palms, grow slowly to a mature height of 15-20 feet with a trunk diameter of 1 to 1 1/2 feet. Flowers can be red, white or yellow and occur in groups of two male flowers and one female flower. The fruit of this graceful palm is light orange to brownish red and can be used to make jelly. The seeds can even be roasted for a coffee substitute. Pindo palms are often used as a specimen tree and draw a variety of wildlife with their sweet fruit.
Growing Pindo Palm Trees
Pindo palms will grow in full sun or partial shade and any type of soil as long as it is moderately salt tolerant and has good drainage. Falling fruit can make a mess, so it is recommended that pindo palms be planted at least ten feet from decks, patios or paved surfaces. Since these trees grow so slowly, it is best to buy at least a three-year-old nursery stock tree unless you are extremely patient.
How to Care of a Pindo Palm
Pindo palm care is not difficult at all. There are no diseases or insect problems with this tree, other than the odd micro-nutrient deficiency. Regular fertilization will help keep the pindo palm looking its best. Pindo palms are able to survive hot and windy conditions, but it is always best to keep the soil adequately moist. This Brazil native requires some pruning of dead fronds to keep its appearance tidy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The pindo palm (Butia capitata) is a thick, slow growing palm tree that is popular in zones 8 through 11, where it’s winter hardy. Palm trees come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and species, and it’s not always clear how much each tree needs to be pruned, if at all. Keep reading to learn more about how and when to prune a pindo palm tree.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Lethal yellowing is a tropical disease that affects several species of palm. This disfiguring disease can devastate landscapes in South Florida that rely on palms. Find out about lethal yellowing treatment and detection in this article.
What is Lethal Yellowing?
As the name implies, lethal yellowing is a fatal disease. It is caused by a phytoplasma, which is a microscopic organism a little less sophisticated than a bacteria. Insects called planthoppers carry the phytoplasma from tree to tree. Planthoppers can’t survive at temperatures below freezing, and this prevents the disease from spreading into other parts of the country. Lethal yellowing disease can’t be controlled by killing the insect vector because insecticides often fail to come into contact with these constantly moving, flying insects. Lethal yellowing disease affects coconut palms, date palms, and a few other palm species. In the U.S., it occurs in the lower third of the state of Florida where temperatures never drop below freezing. Palm trees in some parts of the Caribbean, as well as Central and South America, may also suffer from the disease. There is no cure, but you can extend the life of your tree and prevent lethal yellowing from spreading.
Treating or Preventing Lethal Yellowing of Palms
Before you embark or a campaign to control leafhoppers and planthoppers, make sure you have lethal yellowing and not a less severe disease with similar symptoms. The symptoms of lethal yellowing appears in these three stages:
In the first stage, the nuts fall from the trees prematurely. Fallen nuts have a blackened or browned area near the point where they were attached to the stem. The second stage affects the tips of the male flowers. All new male flowers blacken from the tips down and then die. The tree can’t set fruit. The disease derives its name from the third stage where the fronds turn yellow. Yellowing begins with the lower fronds and advances toward the top of the tree. Trees infected with lethal yellowing disease should be removed and replaced with a resistant species. Consider planting native varieties, which have a natural resistance to the protoplasm. Taking the tree down as soon as you detect the disease helps prevent the spread to other trees.
When trees are rare or valuable, they can be injected with antibiotics. This is an expensive treatment, and the antibiotics are only available to professional arborists in the lower third of the state of Florida. Injections are only used as part of a broader control plan that includes the eventual replacement of the tree. Do not eat coconuts collected from treated palms.
What is Lethal Yellowing?
As the name implies, lethal yellowing is a fatal disease. It is caused by a phytoplasma, which is a microscopic organism a little less sophisticated than a bacteria. Insects called planthoppers carry the phytoplasma from tree to tree. Planthoppers can’t survive at temperatures below freezing, and this prevents the disease from spreading into other parts of the country. Lethal yellowing disease can’t be controlled by killing the insect vector because insecticides often fail to come into contact with these constantly moving, flying insects. Lethal yellowing disease affects coconut palms, date palms, and a few other palm species. In the U.S., it occurs in the lower third of the state of Florida where temperatures never drop below freezing. Palm trees in some parts of the Caribbean, as well as Central and South America, may also suffer from the disease. There is no cure, but you can extend the life of your tree and prevent lethal yellowing from spreading.
Treating or Preventing Lethal Yellowing of Palms
Before you embark or a campaign to control leafhoppers and planthoppers, make sure you have lethal yellowing and not a less severe disease with similar symptoms. The symptoms of lethal yellowing appears in these three stages:
In the first stage, the nuts fall from the trees prematurely. Fallen nuts have a blackened or browned area near the point where they were attached to the stem. The second stage affects the tips of the male flowers. All new male flowers blacken from the tips down and then die. The tree can’t set fruit. The disease derives its name from the third stage where the fronds turn yellow. Yellowing begins with the lower fronds and advances toward the top of the tree. Trees infected with lethal yellowing disease should be removed and replaced with a resistant species. Consider planting native varieties, which have a natural resistance to the protoplasm. Taking the tree down as soon as you detect the disease helps prevent the spread to other trees.
When trees are rare or valuable, they can be injected with antibiotics. This is an expensive treatment, and the antibiotics are only available to professional arborists in the lower third of the state of Florida. Injections are only used as part of a broader control plan that includes the eventual replacement of the tree. Do not eat coconuts collected from treated palms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Oak trees (Quercus) are among the most common tree species found in forests, but their number are declining. The main cause of the decline is the value of acorns and young saplings as a food source for wildlife. You can help the tree recover its former glory by starting and planting oak tree seedlings following the instructions in this article.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
The problem with growing mulberry trees is the berries. They create a mess on the ground beneath the trees and stain everything they come in contact with. In addition, the birds that eat the berries disburse the seeds, and the species has become invasive in the wild. Fruitless mulberry trees (Morus alba ‘Fruitless’) are just as appealing as the fruited varieties, but without the mess or the invasive potential. So what is a fruitless mulberry tree? A fruitless mulberry tree is an excellent choice for a medium to large shade tree in home landscapes. It grows 20 to 60 feet tall with a dense canopy as much as 45 feet wide. This handsome tree has dark green foliage in summer which turns yellow before it drops in fall.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The tree in the backyard that blazes with red, orange and yellow foliage in autumn is most likely a maple. Maple trees are known for their brilliant fall color as well as the ease with which they “bleed” sap. The species’ tendency to lose sap from wounds makes gardeners question the wisdom of pruning maple trees. However, maple tree pruning is an essential part of maple tree maintenance. It’s important to learn how to prune maple trees and to pick the best time for pruning maples.
When to Prune a Maple Tree
Many gardeners are confused about when to prune a maple tree. In late winter, when the days are warm and the nights are cold, root pressure causes sap to flow from any wound made in the bark of the tree. This makes it look as if the tree is suffering.
However, maple tree pruning in winter generally won’t hurt a mature tree. You would have to remove an entire limb for the loss of sap to negatively impact a fully grown tree. If the tree is just a sapling, however, loss of sap may cause problems. You can avoid this issue if you wait until summer to prune maples. Once the leaf buds open, the sap is no longer under pressure and won’t leak out from pruning wounds. For this reason, many gardeners say that the best time for pruning maples is in summer after the tree is fully in leaf.
How to Prune Maple Trees
Gardeners trim maple trees for a variety of reasons. Regular maple tree pruning helps keep a tree the desired size and stops a tree from encroaching on its neighbors. Pruning also assists the tree develop a sound branch structure. Carefully removing branches can reduce or eliminate structural issues in a tree. It can also open up the center of the tree to let sun and air move through the canopy. This prevents certain types of diseases.
When you are pruning maple trees, it is always a good idea to remove broken, diseased or dead branches. Otherwise, the decay-producing fungi can infect healthy parts of the trees.
When to Prune a Maple Tree
Many gardeners are confused about when to prune a maple tree. In late winter, when the days are warm and the nights are cold, root pressure causes sap to flow from any wound made in the bark of the tree. This makes it look as if the tree is suffering.
However, maple tree pruning in winter generally won’t hurt a mature tree. You would have to remove an entire limb for the loss of sap to negatively impact a fully grown tree. If the tree is just a sapling, however, loss of sap may cause problems. You can avoid this issue if you wait until summer to prune maples. Once the leaf buds open, the sap is no longer under pressure and won’t leak out from pruning wounds. For this reason, many gardeners say that the best time for pruning maples is in summer after the tree is fully in leaf.
How to Prune Maple Trees
Gardeners trim maple trees for a variety of reasons. Regular maple tree pruning helps keep a tree the desired size and stops a tree from encroaching on its neighbors. Pruning also assists the tree develop a sound branch structure. Carefully removing branches can reduce or eliminate structural issues in a tree. It can also open up the center of the tree to let sun and air move through the canopy. This prevents certain types of diseases.
When you are pruning maple trees, it is always a good idea to remove broken, diseased or dead branches. Otherwise, the decay-producing fungi can infect healthy parts of the trees.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Striped maple trees (Acer pensylvanicum) are also known as “snakebark maple.” But don’t let this scare you away. This lovely little tree is an American native. Other species of snakebark maple exist, but Acer pensylvanicum is the only one native to the continent. For more striped maple tree information and tips for striped maple tree cultivation, read on.
Striped Maple Tree Information
All maples are not soaring, graceful trees with snow-white bark. According to striped maple tree information, this tree is a shrubby understory maple. It can be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. You’ll find this maple in the wild from Wisconsin to Quebec, from the Appalachians into Georgia. It is native to the rocky forests in this range.
These trees usually grow from 15 to 25 feet tall, although some specimens get to 40 feet tall. The canopy is rounded and sometimes the very top is flattened. The tree is much loved because of the unusual and interesting trunk. Striped maple tree bark is green with vertical white striping. The stripes sometimes fade as the tree matures, and the striped maple tree bark turn reddish brown.
Additional facts about striped maple trees include their leaves which can grow quite long, up to 7 inches. Each one has three lobes and looks a little like a goose foot. The leaves grow in pale green with pink overtones, but turn a deep green by summer’s end. Expect another color change in autumn when the foliage turns canary yellow. In May, you’ll see drooping racemes of tiny yellow flowers. These are followed by winged seed pods as summer passes. You can use the seeds for striped maple tree cultivation.
Striped Maple Tree Cultivation
If you are thinking of planting striped maple trees, they grow best in shaded areas or woodland gardens. As is typical with understory trees, striped maple trees prefer a shady location and cannot grow in full sun. Striped maple tree cultivation is easiest in well-drained soil. The soil need not be rich, but the trees thrive in moist soils that are slightly acidic.
One good reason for planting striped maple trees is to benefit local wildlife. This tree serves an important role as a browse plant for wildlife. Planting striped maple trees results in food for various animals, including red squirrels, porcupines, white-tailed deer and ruffed grouse.
Striped Maple Tree Information
All maples are not soaring, graceful trees with snow-white bark. According to striped maple tree information, this tree is a shrubby understory maple. It can be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. You’ll find this maple in the wild from Wisconsin to Quebec, from the Appalachians into Georgia. It is native to the rocky forests in this range.
These trees usually grow from 15 to 25 feet tall, although some specimens get to 40 feet tall. The canopy is rounded and sometimes the very top is flattened. The tree is much loved because of the unusual and interesting trunk. Striped maple tree bark is green with vertical white striping. The stripes sometimes fade as the tree matures, and the striped maple tree bark turn reddish brown.
Additional facts about striped maple trees include their leaves which can grow quite long, up to 7 inches. Each one has three lobes and looks a little like a goose foot. The leaves grow in pale green with pink overtones, but turn a deep green by summer’s end. Expect another color change in autumn when the foliage turns canary yellow. In May, you’ll see drooping racemes of tiny yellow flowers. These are followed by winged seed pods as summer passes. You can use the seeds for striped maple tree cultivation.
Striped Maple Tree Cultivation
If you are thinking of planting striped maple trees, they grow best in shaded areas or woodland gardens. As is typical with understory trees, striped maple trees prefer a shady location and cannot grow in full sun. Striped maple tree cultivation is easiest in well-drained soil. The soil need not be rich, but the trees thrive in moist soils that are slightly acidic.
One good reason for planting striped maple trees is to benefit local wildlife. This tree serves an important role as a browse plant for wildlife. Planting striped maple trees results in food for various animals, including red squirrels, porcupines, white-tailed deer and ruffed grouse.
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