文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A native of southern Europe and Asia, the saffron crocus is unique among the 75 other crocus species. Its formal name of Crocus sativus is derived from the Latin meaning “cultivated.” Indeed, it has a long history of cultivation dating back to its use by Egyptian physicians in 1600 BC for medicinal purposes. Let’s learn more about saffron crocus harvesting and its uses today.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
What’s in a name? In the case of brain cactus, a fascinating plant, albeit with a very descriptive name. One of the many species of Mammillaria, Cristata is the form known as brain cactus. It is an easy to grow cactus which often produces lovely little blooms and makes a great houseplant or outdoor specimen in warmer climates. Read on for some Cristata information along with care and growing tips.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
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求助
Ueca
2017年08月22日
What is the species of this climbing plant?
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Cristel：Euonymus, possibly “Winter Creeper”
Ueca：Found it. It is the merit-winning Euonymus fortunei.
Ueca：Currently it is about 60cm tall, but it was up to 3m up the wall in the past.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
The feverfew plant (Tanacetum parthenium) is actually a species of chrysanthemum that has been grown in herb and medicinal gardens for centuries. Read on to learn more about feverfew plants.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
There is a fun little plant with vibrant bluish purple flowers and leaves that change colors. Cerinthe is the grown-up name, but it is also called the Pride of Gibraltar and the blue shrimp plant. What is Cerinthe? Cerinthe is a Mediterranean species perfect for moderate environments. Growing Cerinthe plants require USDA plant hardiness zones 7 to 10. This versatile little guy might be the right choice to brighten up your garden.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
What is Cerinthe?
In addition to its other names, Cerinthe is also known as honeywort or wax flower from the Greek ‘keros’ for wax and ‘anthos’ for flower. The plant is an herb related to borage, but the foliage is not as thickly haired. Instead, Cerinthe has thick greenish-gray foliage with softly rounded edges. New leaves are marbled with white, which disappears after the leaves mature. The leaves alternate in whorls up the stem in an attractive pattern. The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) may be an annual in colder climes, or a half hardy perennial. The flowers are tiny and insignificant but are covered by colorful bracts. The bracts deepen into a bluer hue as nighttime temperatures cool. During the day they are a lighter purple tone. These herbs grow 2 to 4 feet tall and are perfect in beds, borders and pots.
Growing Cerinthe Plants
The Cerinthe blue shrimp plant is easy to start from seed. Soak the seeds overnight and start them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Plant the herb outside in April in most zones. Cerinthe plant care includes a well drained site, full to partial sun and moderate water. Potted plants require more water than in-ground plants. The herb is slightly drought tolerant but produces the best flower display when the plant is kept moist but not soggy.
Caring for Cerinthe
This is an easy-to-grow plant and Cerinthe plant care rates on the low to moderate scale. This herb will even flourish in rich soil with little to no maintenance. Once you have an established plant, self-seeding ensures a ready supply of plants every year. Outdoor plants will tend to reseed or you can collect seeds, dry them and save them for the next season. Harvest seeds in fall and save them in envelopes until early spring. You can trim back rangy stems, if you wish, to force a more compact plant. Stake tall plants or use a peony ring to keep stems upright. Once the plant experiences a hard freeze, it will die. In more temperate zones, remove the parent plant in winter and lightly mulch over the seeds. Fluff the soil in spring and the seeds should germinate and produce a new batch of Cerinthe blue shrimp plants. Use a diluted plant food once a month when caring for Cerinthe in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
One of the easiest methods of plant propagation for cacti is by removing cactus pups. These don’t have furry ears and a tail but are the smaller versions of the parent plant at the base. Many species of cactus are known for growing cactus pups, which carry the identical characteristics of the parent without the capriciousness of seeds, which may produce plants with different characteristics. Removing offsets from cactus, also known as pups, not only produces another complete plant but is useful in containers that are overcrowded. Cactus propagation via offsets is easier than the slow growth of seed, the surgical precision of grafting and the variability of cuttings. The little cacti are small but complete copies of the parent species and simply need to be removed from the adult.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Off with your head! Cactus propagation is commonly done by grafting, a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. Grafting cactus plants is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try. Different species work better with different methods but a brief cactus grafting guide follows with basic instructions on how to graft a cactus. Cacti comprise some of my favorite plants due to their uniqueness of form and unusual characteristics. Propagation is through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Plants astound and amaze with the wide variety of adaptations they make to survive in diverse and challenging environments. Every species performs mini miracles of survival by virtue of their special modifications and characteristics. Xerophyte desert plants are a perfect example of adapted plants. They have altered their physiology over time to thrive in dry, arid regions. Gardening with xerophytes allows you to exploit their special characteristics and utilize them in dry or drought prone parts of your landscape.
What are Xerophytes?
Plant classifications such as mesophyte, hydrophyte or xerophytes hint at the species ability to adapt and survive. What are xerophytes? These are a group of plants that are uniquely suited to areas with limited rainfall. Adaptations of xerophyte garden plants vary but may include lack of leaves, waxy skin, storage organs or stems, shallow spreading roots or even spines. Cacti are great models of the xerophytic class. Other types of xerophytic plants include succulents like aloe, euphorbia, some grasses and even some perennial bulbs. These plants have the ability to store water, close the stoma in the leaves to conserve moisture, reduce transpiration and wide root bases or deep taproots.
About Xerophyte Desert Plants
While hydrophytes hang out near water and mesophytes on land with plenty of organic matter and moisture, xerophytes live where annual rainfalls are measured in just a few inches. Xerophyte desert plants, such as cacti, possess adaptations that allow them to not only survive in arid zones, but to thrive. Their low moisture and nutrient needs, ability to withstand blazing sun and cool nights makes xerophytic garden design a low maintenance way of conserving resources in the landscape. Xerophyte desert plants are suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 13. However, these amazingly adaptive plants can occasionally grow in lower zones with some protection from cold and excess moisture.
Xerophytic Garden Design
Xerophytic adaptations of plants make for hardy resource conserving garden choices. Even if you don’t live in a desert, many types of xerophytic plants can work in different garden situations. The area under the eaves, for instance, tends to receive less rainfall and will be sunny and hot on the south and west sides. Rocky or gravely hills with sunny exposure tend to be low on moisture and nutrients which run off in the rainy season. These suggestions are just a couple of the areas where xerophytic garden design could be fun and helpful in your landscape. Check the area for drainage and amend with generous amounts of sand or other gritty material, if necessary. Choose plants suited for your zone. Remember that these plants often have a deep taproot, so choose locations wisely as they can be difficult to move once established. Cool, rainy climates can also use xerophytes in the garden as potted patio plants. Move them indoors or to a sheltered area in winter.
What are Xerophytes?
Plant classifications such as mesophyte, hydrophyte or xerophytes hint at the species ability to adapt and survive. What are xerophytes? These are a group of plants that are uniquely suited to areas with limited rainfall. Adaptations of xerophyte garden plants vary but may include lack of leaves, waxy skin, storage organs or stems, shallow spreading roots or even spines. Cacti are great models of the xerophytic class. Other types of xerophytic plants include succulents like aloe, euphorbia, some grasses and even some perennial bulbs. These plants have the ability to store water, close the stoma in the leaves to conserve moisture, reduce transpiration and wide root bases or deep taproots.
About Xerophyte Desert Plants
While hydrophytes hang out near water and mesophytes on land with plenty of organic matter and moisture, xerophytes live where annual rainfalls are measured in just a few inches. Xerophyte desert plants, such as cacti, possess adaptations that allow them to not only survive in arid zones, but to thrive. Their low moisture and nutrient needs, ability to withstand blazing sun and cool nights makes xerophytic garden design a low maintenance way of conserving resources in the landscape. Xerophyte desert plants are suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 13. However, these amazingly adaptive plants can occasionally grow in lower zones with some protection from cold and excess moisture.
Xerophytic Garden Design
Xerophytic adaptations of plants make for hardy resource conserving garden choices. Even if you don’t live in a desert, many types of xerophytic plants can work in different garden situations. The area under the eaves, for instance, tends to receive less rainfall and will be sunny and hot on the south and west sides. Rocky or gravely hills with sunny exposure tend to be low on moisture and nutrients which run off in the rainy season. These suggestions are just a couple of the areas where xerophytic garden design could be fun and helpful in your landscape. Check the area for drainage and amend with generous amounts of sand or other gritty material, if necessary. Choose plants suited for your zone. Remember that these plants often have a deep taproot, so choose locations wisely as they can be difficult to move once established. Cool, rainy climates can also use xerophytes in the garden as potted patio plants. Move them indoors or to a sheltered area in winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Whether a garden is drenched in sun or deep in shade, at least one of the more than 1,000 begonia species (Begonia spp.) and thousands of begonia cultivars can lift it from mundane to magical. As subtropical and tropical plants, most begonias survive winters outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. Elsewhere, they can be lifted before the first frost and stored indoors for the winter. Frost isn't their only enemy; the humidity begonias love exposes them to powdery mildew. Treat an infection culturally or organically before resorting to chemical fungicide.
The Fungi
Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate.
The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour.
Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cultural Treatments
Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry.
To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation.
Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use.
The Milk-and-Water Treatment
A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association.
The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University.
Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside.
Neem Oil Treatment
Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects.
Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles.
Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
The Fungi
Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate.
The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour.
Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cultural Treatments
Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry.
To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation.
Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use.
The Milk-and-Water Treatment
A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association.
The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University.
Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside.
Neem Oil Treatment
Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects.
Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles.
Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
It is becoming increasingly rare due to habitat destruction, and is now listed in the Red Data List of endangered plant species. It is one of the toadflaxes which are now included of the Plantain (Plantaginaceae) family - a hugely diverse grouping of plants which now incorporates many of the species originally included in the Scrophulariacea family.
Cape St. Vincent is famous for its biodiversity and boasts a number of endangered and/or endemic species of plants. Despite its designation as a 'natural park' the site is under great pressure from tourist footfall and also, shockingly, from building projects - in recent years villas have been built in the midst of the most fragile of the habitats. The site is also threatened by the dumping of litter and rubble, particularly by builders.
Linaria algarviana is easily confused with Linaria amethystea, which is common throughout the Algarve and found in open coastal fields and meadows.
Linaria algarviana appears to flower later than L. amethystea, but this may be due to the cold, windy and generally inhospitable conditions which often affect Cape St. Vincent well into springtime.
Cape St. Vincent is famous for its biodiversity and boasts a number of endangered and/or endemic species of plants. Despite its designation as a 'natural park' the site is under great pressure from tourist footfall and also, shockingly, from building projects - in recent years villas have been built in the midst of the most fragile of the habitats. The site is also threatened by the dumping of litter and rubble, particularly by builders.
Linaria algarviana is easily confused with Linaria amethystea, which is common throughout the Algarve and found in open coastal fields and meadows.
Linaria algarviana appears to flower later than L. amethystea, but this may be due to the cold, windy and generally inhospitable conditions which often affect Cape St. Vincent well into springtime.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dianthus caryophyllus, carnation or clove pink, is a species of Dianthus. It is probably native to the Mediterranean region but its exact range is unknown due to extensive cultivation for the last 2,000 years.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves are glaucous greyish green to blue-green, slender, up to 15 cm long. The flowers are produced singly or up to five together in a cyme; they are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly scented; the original natural flower colour is bright pinkish-purple, but cultivars of other colours, including red, white, yellow and green, have been developed.
Cultivation and uses
Growing
Carnations require well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and full sun. Numerous cultivars have been selected for garden planting.[4] Typical examples include 'Gina Porto', 'Helen', 'Laced Romeo', and 'Red Rocket'.
Colombia is the largest carnation producer in the world.
Traditional meanings
For the most part, carnations express love, fascination, and distinction, though there are many variations dependent on colour.
Along with the red rose, the red carnation can be used as a symbol of socialism and the labour movement, and historically has often been used in demonstrations on International Workers' Day (May Day).
In Portugal, bright red carnations represent the 1974 coup d'etat that ended the Estado Novo regime.
Light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection.
White carnations represent pure love and good luck, while striped (variegated) carnations symbolise regret that a love cannot be shared.
White carnations, in the Netherlands are associated with HRH prince Bernhard. He wore one during World War II and in a gesture of defiance some of the Dutch population took up this gesture. After the war the white carnation became a sign of the Prince, veterans and remembrance of the resistance.
Purple carnations indicate capriciousness. In France, it is a traditional funeral flower, given in condolence for the death of a loved one.
According to a Christian legend, carnations first appeared on Earth as Jesus carried the Cross. The Virgin Mary shed tears at Jesus' plight, and carnations sprang up from where her tears fell. Thus the pink carnation became the symbol of a mother's undying love.
It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves are glaucous greyish green to blue-green, slender, up to 15 cm long. The flowers are produced singly or up to five together in a cyme; they are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly scented; the original natural flower colour is bright pinkish-purple, but cultivars of other colours, including red, white, yellow and green, have been developed.
Cultivation and uses
Growing
Carnations require well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and full sun. Numerous cultivars have been selected for garden planting.[4] Typical examples include 'Gina Porto', 'Helen', 'Laced Romeo', and 'Red Rocket'.
Colombia is the largest carnation producer in the world.
Traditional meanings
For the most part, carnations express love, fascination, and distinction, though there are many variations dependent on colour.
Along with the red rose, the red carnation can be used as a symbol of socialism and the labour movement, and historically has often been used in demonstrations on International Workers' Day (May Day).
In Portugal, bright red carnations represent the 1974 coup d'etat that ended the Estado Novo regime.
Light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection.
White carnations represent pure love and good luck, while striped (variegated) carnations symbolise regret that a love cannot be shared.
White carnations, in the Netherlands are associated with HRH prince Bernhard. He wore one during World War II and in a gesture of defiance some of the Dutch population took up this gesture. After the war the white carnation became a sign of the Prince, veterans and remembrance of the resistance.
Purple carnations indicate capriciousness. In France, it is a traditional funeral flower, given in condolence for the death of a loved one.
According to a Christian legend, carnations first appeared on Earth as Jesus carried the Cross. The Virgin Mary shed tears at Jesus' plight, and carnations sprang up from where her tears fell. Thus the pink carnation became the symbol of a mother's undying love.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Honeysuckles are arching shrubs or twining bines in the family Caprifoliaceae, native to the Northern Hemisphere. Approximately 180 species of honeysuckle have been identified. About 100 of these species can be found in China and approximately 20 native species have been identified in Europe, 20 in India, and 20 in North America. Widely known species include Lonicera periclymenum (honeysuckle or woodbine), Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle, white honeysuckle, or Chinese honeysuckle) and Lonicera sempervirens (coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle, or woodbine honeysuckle). Hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers on some of these plants, especially L. sempervirens and L. ciliosa (orange honeysuckle). Honeysuckle derives its name from the edible sweet nectar obtainable from its tubular flowers.The name Lonicera stems from Adam Lonicer, a Renaissance botanist.
Description
Most species of Lonicera are hardy twining climbers, with a large minority of shrubby habit; a handful of species (including Lonicera hildebrandiana from the Himalayan foothills and L. etrusca from the Mediterranean) are tender and can only be grown outside in subtropical zones.
The leaves are opposite, simple oval, 1–10 cm long; most are deciduous but some are evergreen. Many of the species have sweetly scented, bilaterally symmetrical flowers that produce a sweet, edible nectar, and most flowers are borne in clusters of two (leading to the common name of "twinberry" for certain North American species). Both shrubby and vining sorts have strongly fibrous stems which have been used for binding and textiles. The fruit is a red, blue or black spherical or elongated berry containing several seeds; in most species the berries are mildly poisonous, but in a few (notably Lonicera caerulea) they are edible and grown for home use and commerce. Most honeysuckle berries are attractive to wildlife, which has led to species such as L. japonica and L. maackii spreading invasively outside of their home ranges. Many species of Lonicera are eaten by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species — see a list of Lepidoptera that feed on honeysuckles.
Invasive species
Several species of honeysuckle have become invasive when introduced outside their native range, particularly in New Zealand and the United States. Invasive species include L. japonica, L. maackii, L. morrowii, and L. tatarica.
Description
Most species of Lonicera are hardy twining climbers, with a large minority of shrubby habit; a handful of species (including Lonicera hildebrandiana from the Himalayan foothills and L. etrusca from the Mediterranean) are tender and can only be grown outside in subtropical zones.
The leaves are opposite, simple oval, 1–10 cm long; most are deciduous but some are evergreen. Many of the species have sweetly scented, bilaterally symmetrical flowers that produce a sweet, edible nectar, and most flowers are borne in clusters of two (leading to the common name of "twinberry" for certain North American species). Both shrubby and vining sorts have strongly fibrous stems which have been used for binding and textiles. The fruit is a red, blue or black spherical or elongated berry containing several seeds; in most species the berries are mildly poisonous, but in a few (notably Lonicera caerulea) they are edible and grown for home use and commerce. Most honeysuckle berries are attractive to wildlife, which has led to species such as L. japonica and L. maackii spreading invasively outside of their home ranges. Many species of Lonicera are eaten by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species — see a list of Lepidoptera that feed on honeysuckles.
Invasive species
Several species of honeysuckle have become invasive when introduced outside their native range, particularly in New Zealand and the United States. Invasive species include L. japonica, L. maackii, L. morrowii, and L. tatarica.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Syringa vulgaris (lilac or common lilac) is a species of flowering plant in the olive family Oleaceae, native to the Balkan Peninsula, where it grows on rocky hills.This species is widely cultivated as an ornamental and has been naturalized in other parts of Europe (including the United Kingdom, France, Germany, and Italy), as well as much of North America. It is not regarded as an aggressive species, found in the wild in widely scattered sites, usually in the vicinity of past or present human habitations.
Description
S. vulgaris is a large deciduous shrub or multistemmed small tree, growing to 6–7 m (20–23 ft) high, producing secondary shoots ("suckers") from the base or roots, with stem diameters up to 20 cm (8 in), which in the course of decades may produce a small clonal thicket.[7] The bark is grey to grey-brown, smooth on young stems, longitudinally furrowed, and flaking on older stems. The leaves are simple, 4–12 cm (2–5 in) and 3–8 cm broad, light green to glaucous, oval to cordate, with pinnate leaf venation, a mucronate apex, and an entire margin. They are arranged in opposite pairs or occasionally in whorls of three. The flowers have a tubular base to the corolla 6–10 mm long with an open four-lobed apex 5–8 mm across, usually lilac to mauve, occasionally white. They are arranged in dense, terminal panicles 8–18 cm (3–7 in) long. The fruit is a dry, smooth, brown capsule, 1–2 cm long, splitting in two to release the two-winged seeds.
Cultivation
The lilac is a very popular ornamental plant in gardens and parks, because of its attractive, sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many of the roses and other summer flowers come into bloom.
In late summer, lilacs can be attacked by powdery mildew, specifically Erysiphe syringae, one of the Erysiphaceae.No fall color is seen and the seed clusters have no aesthetic appeal.
Common lilac tends to flower profusely in alternate years, a habit that can be improved by deadheading the flower clusters after the color has faded and before seeds, few of which are fertile, form. At the same time, twiggy growth on shoots that have flowered more than once or twice can be cut to a strong, outward-growing side shoot.
It is widely naturalised in western and northern Europe.In a sign of its complete naturalization in North America, it has been selected as the state flower of the state of New Hampshire, because it "is symbolic of that hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State".Additional hardiness, for Canadian gardens, was bred for in a series of S. vulgaris hybrids by Isabella Preston, who introduced many of the later-blooming varieties, whose later-developing flower buds are better protected from late spring frosts; the Syringa × prestoniae hybrids range primarily in the pink and lavender shades.
Description
S. vulgaris is a large deciduous shrub or multistemmed small tree, growing to 6–7 m (20–23 ft) high, producing secondary shoots ("suckers") from the base or roots, with stem diameters up to 20 cm (8 in), which in the course of decades may produce a small clonal thicket.[7] The bark is grey to grey-brown, smooth on young stems, longitudinally furrowed, and flaking on older stems. The leaves are simple, 4–12 cm (2–5 in) and 3–8 cm broad, light green to glaucous, oval to cordate, with pinnate leaf venation, a mucronate apex, and an entire margin. They are arranged in opposite pairs or occasionally in whorls of three. The flowers have a tubular base to the corolla 6–10 mm long with an open four-lobed apex 5–8 mm across, usually lilac to mauve, occasionally white. They are arranged in dense, terminal panicles 8–18 cm (3–7 in) long. The fruit is a dry, smooth, brown capsule, 1–2 cm long, splitting in two to release the two-winged seeds.
Cultivation
The lilac is a very popular ornamental plant in gardens and parks, because of its attractive, sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many of the roses and other summer flowers come into bloom.
In late summer, lilacs can be attacked by powdery mildew, specifically Erysiphe syringae, one of the Erysiphaceae.No fall color is seen and the seed clusters have no aesthetic appeal.
Common lilac tends to flower profusely in alternate years, a habit that can be improved by deadheading the flower clusters after the color has faded and before seeds, few of which are fertile, form. At the same time, twiggy growth on shoots that have flowered more than once or twice can be cut to a strong, outward-growing side shoot.
It is widely naturalised in western and northern Europe.In a sign of its complete naturalization in North America, it has been selected as the state flower of the state of New Hampshire, because it "is symbolic of that hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State".Additional hardiness, for Canadian gardens, was bred for in a series of S. vulgaris hybrids by Isabella Preston, who introduced many of the later-blooming varieties, whose later-developing flower buds are better protected from late spring frosts; the Syringa × prestoniae hybrids range primarily in the pink and lavender shades.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Oxalis palmifrons is a fascinating and very attractive blooming perennial. Oxalis is the genus name of a plant from southern Africa that is made up of over 200 species. Oxalis palmifrons is one such species that gets its name from its leaves – tiny, symmetrical fronds radiating from the top of each stem, making it look for all the world like a tiny cluster of miniature palm trees. It also sometimes goes by the name palm leaf false shamrock plant, or simply false shamrock. But how do you go about growing Oxalis palmifrons? Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a palm leaf oxalis and palm leaf oxalis care.
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
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