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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Above: Yellow Columbine flowering in the Rocky Mountains in early July.
Yellow Columbine is the most common of the three species that grow in the Rocky Mountains, the other two being Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea and Red Western Columbine - Aquilegia elegantula.
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. Yellow Columbine grows in moist, acidic habitats on rocky ledges, mountain meadows and subalpine slopes.
Various parts of the plant have been used to make medicines: the seeds can be crushed and added to hot water to cure headaches, and tea made from the dried roots and leaves, has been used to treat stomach and bowel complaints.
Aquilegia flavescens is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
Yellow Columbine is the most common of the three species that grow in the Rocky Mountains, the other two being Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea and Red Western Columbine - Aquilegia elegantula.
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. Yellow Columbine grows in moist, acidic habitats on rocky ledges, mountain meadows and subalpine slopes.
Various parts of the plant have been used to make medicines: the seeds can be crushed and added to hot water to cure headaches, and tea made from the dried roots and leaves, has been used to treat stomach and bowel complaints.
Aquilegia flavescens is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Above: Western Red Columbine flowering in the Rocky Mountains in early July.
This lovely columbine species is not as common as either of its close relatives, Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea or Yellow Columbine - Aquilegia flavescens. It readily hybdrises with the latter producing pale pink or lemon-coloured flowers.
Western Red Columbine likes moist sites, and we found it growing at the base of a rocky slope in woodland beside a mountain stream. It also tolerates high altitudes and will appear in suitable subalpine habitats.
Columbines reward their pollinators with nectar, but the insects must have very long tongues to reach down to the end of the long spurs where it is stored. Hummingbirds are particularly fond of columbine flowers and so growing cultivated varieties in your garden is a sure way of attracting them.
Aqulegia elegantula is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. Columbines are very easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
This lovely columbine species is not as common as either of its close relatives, Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea or Yellow Columbine - Aquilegia flavescens. It readily hybdrises with the latter producing pale pink or lemon-coloured flowers.
Western Red Columbine likes moist sites, and we found it growing at the base of a rocky slope in woodland beside a mountain stream. It also tolerates high altitudes and will appear in suitable subalpine habitats.
Columbines reward their pollinators with nectar, but the insects must have very long tongues to reach down to the end of the long spurs where it is stored. Hummingbirds are particularly fond of columbine flowers and so growing cultivated varieties in your garden is a sure way of attracting them.
Aqulegia elegantula is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. Columbines are very easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Distribution
Sometimes described simply as Blue Columbine but also known as Rocky Mountain Columbine, this lovely wildflower is actually Colorado's state flower. It is predominantly a Rocky Mountains species and also grows in Idaho, Montana and south into New Mexico.
Blooming times
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. The plant is quite bushy and scrambles over rocks in ravines and on roadsides up to quite high elevations - around 10,000 feet.It also grows in open woodlands where it scrambles over other shrubs and fallen trees.
Uses
The Native American Indians used the seeds of the plant to make a perfume, first crushing them, then making them into a paste which was spread among clothes to keep them fresh.
Aqulegia coerulea (Aquilegia caerulea is a synonym) is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
Sometimes described simply as Blue Columbine but also known as Rocky Mountain Columbine, this lovely wildflower is actually Colorado's state flower. It is predominantly a Rocky Mountains species and also grows in Idaho, Montana and south into New Mexico.
Blooming times
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. The plant is quite bushy and scrambles over rocks in ravines and on roadsides up to quite high elevations - around 10,000 feet.It also grows in open woodlands where it scrambles over other shrubs and fallen trees.
Uses
The Native American Indians used the seeds of the plant to make a perfume, first crushing them, then making them into a paste which was spread among clothes to keep them fresh.
Aqulegia coerulea (Aquilegia caerulea is a synonym) is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Violets (Viola) are a genus of Spring flowering plants in the family Violaceae. There are around 400-500 species of Violets in the genus. Violets are native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere and are also distributed in Hawaii, Australasia, and the Andes in South America. Violets are found in moist and slightly shaded conditions such as hedgerows.
The word 'Violet' comes from the Latin name 'Viola'. Ordinary Violets, Common Blue Violets, Sweet violets and Garden violets are some of the popular varieties of violets. Most Violets are small perennial plants, but a few are annual plants and some are small shrubs.
Violets typically have heart-shaped leaves, and asymmetrical flowers. The shape of the petals defines many species, for example, some Violets have a spur at the end of each petal. Flower colors vary among the Violets, many of which are violet as their name suggests, and some are blue, yellow, white and cream. Some are bicolored, often blue and yellow.
Facts about Violets
True Violets have been known for centuries with the ancient Greeks cultivating them about 500 BC or earlier. Both the Greeks and the Romans used Violets for all sorts of things such as herbal remedies, wine ('Vinum Violatum'), to sweeten food and for festivals.
Strictly, Sweet violets, Bedding Violas and Pansies are all classified as "violas". Sweet Violets descended from the European wild sweet violet, Viola odorata. Bedding Violas (the flower that we usually call "violas") were hybridized from pansies and Viola cornuta. Pansies developed from the wild violas, Viola lutea and Viola tricolor ("johnny-jump-up").
Violets are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species.
Crossings of a number of plants were developed and these were known as the 'Quatre saisons' violets. Along with the so-called 'Russian Violet' introduced in the latter part of the 19th century, these horticultural efforts gave us the Violets we grow today.
The Blue violet is common to the United States, growing from Maine to Florida.
The Ancient Greeks considered the Violet a symbol of fertility and love; they used it in love potions. Pliny recommended that a garland of violets be worn above the head to ward off headaches and dizzy spells.
The genus includes the Dog Violets, a group of scentless species which are the commonest violets in many areas; the Sweet Violet, Viola odorata (named from its sweet scent) and many other species whose common name includes the word "Violet". Several species are known as Pansies.
The purple violet/Wood Violet/ blue prairie Violet/Prairie blue Violet/hooded blue Violet/meadow blue Violet/and butterfly Violet, is very popular in the eastern United States and is Wisconsin's State Flower.
Violets should not be taken internally in large doses. Violet flowers are edible, used in medicines, as a laxative, and the flowers are candied for decoration in jellies, etc.
True Violets
Saintpaulia is a genus comprising African violets, which are not true Violets. The main differences between African Violets and True violets are:
African violets are mainly grown as houseplants. They are shallow rooting plants that enjoy a good amount of light as long as it is in the shade. True violets are deep-rooting outdoor plants that thrive in partial shade to full sun.
African violets have fleshy downy leaves and produce throughout the summer, five-petalled flowers, usually with a distinct eye while true violets have large to small heart shaped leaves, sometimes smooth, sometimes with varying degrees of hairiness. The flowers are produced from September through to March and most, apart from the Parma Violets, which are frost tolerant.
Varieties of Violets
Viola arvensis - Field Pansy
Viola biflora - Yellow Wood Violet or Twoflower Violet
Viola canina - Heath Dog Violet
Viola hirta - Hairy Violet
Viola odorata - Sweet Violet
Viola pedunculata - Yellow Pansy
Viola riviniana - Common Dog Violet
Viola tricolor - Wild Pansy or Heart's-ease
Viola adunca - Early Blue Violet
Viola nephrophylla - Northern Bog Violet
Viola pedatifida - Crowfoot Violet
Viola pubescens - Downy Yellow Violet
Viola rugulosa - Western Canada Violet
Growing Violets
Violets are easily cultivated through root cuttings or seeds.
Violets are best grown in the dappled shade of deciduous trees thus allowing full winter and spring sunshine.
Choose a site with full sun to light shade. Violets also like well-drained, fairly rich soil, so work in a spadeful or two of compost at planting time for best results.
Plant Violets in early spring, four to six weeks before your region's last frost date.
Plant 4 to 8 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Mulch to keep roots cooler longer.
Water only moderately. Although they love cool conditions, Violets don't need huge amounts of water.
Pinch off spent blooms to promote longer flowering.
Fertilize once after blooming starts.
Violet Plant Care
Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and plant them out in summer. Violets should receive extra moisture in dry weather, as Red Spider Mite is liable to attack if they are allowed to get parched. Spraying with a hose is helpful. Occasional feeding with soot water or liquid manure and even a top dressing of blood or bone is helpful for good blooms.
Division during the autumn or just after flowering. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions, though it is best to pot up smaller divisions and grow them in light shade in a greenhouse or cold frame until they are growing away well. Keep runners picked off during the growing season. This will encourage good sized flowers.
The word 'Violet' comes from the Latin name 'Viola'. Ordinary Violets, Common Blue Violets, Sweet violets and Garden violets are some of the popular varieties of violets. Most Violets are small perennial plants, but a few are annual plants and some are small shrubs.
Violets typically have heart-shaped leaves, and asymmetrical flowers. The shape of the petals defines many species, for example, some Violets have a spur at the end of each petal. Flower colors vary among the Violets, many of which are violet as their name suggests, and some are blue, yellow, white and cream. Some are bicolored, often blue and yellow.
Facts about Violets
True Violets have been known for centuries with the ancient Greeks cultivating them about 500 BC or earlier. Both the Greeks and the Romans used Violets for all sorts of things such as herbal remedies, wine ('Vinum Violatum'), to sweeten food and for festivals.
Strictly, Sweet violets, Bedding Violas and Pansies are all classified as "violas". Sweet Violets descended from the European wild sweet violet, Viola odorata. Bedding Violas (the flower that we usually call "violas") were hybridized from pansies and Viola cornuta. Pansies developed from the wild violas, Viola lutea and Viola tricolor ("johnny-jump-up").
Violets are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species.
Crossings of a number of plants were developed and these were known as the 'Quatre saisons' violets. Along with the so-called 'Russian Violet' introduced in the latter part of the 19th century, these horticultural efforts gave us the Violets we grow today.
The Blue violet is common to the United States, growing from Maine to Florida.
The Ancient Greeks considered the Violet a symbol of fertility and love; they used it in love potions. Pliny recommended that a garland of violets be worn above the head to ward off headaches and dizzy spells.
The genus includes the Dog Violets, a group of scentless species which are the commonest violets in many areas; the Sweet Violet, Viola odorata (named from its sweet scent) and many other species whose common name includes the word "Violet". Several species are known as Pansies.
The purple violet/Wood Violet/ blue prairie Violet/Prairie blue Violet/hooded blue Violet/meadow blue Violet/and butterfly Violet, is very popular in the eastern United States and is Wisconsin's State Flower.
Violets should not be taken internally in large doses. Violet flowers are edible, used in medicines, as a laxative, and the flowers are candied for decoration in jellies, etc.
True Violets
Saintpaulia is a genus comprising African violets, which are not true Violets. The main differences between African Violets and True violets are:
African violets are mainly grown as houseplants. They are shallow rooting plants that enjoy a good amount of light as long as it is in the shade. True violets are deep-rooting outdoor plants that thrive in partial shade to full sun.
African violets have fleshy downy leaves and produce throughout the summer, five-petalled flowers, usually with a distinct eye while true violets have large to small heart shaped leaves, sometimes smooth, sometimes with varying degrees of hairiness. The flowers are produced from September through to March and most, apart from the Parma Violets, which are frost tolerant.
Varieties of Violets
Viola arvensis - Field Pansy
Viola biflora - Yellow Wood Violet or Twoflower Violet
Viola canina - Heath Dog Violet
Viola hirta - Hairy Violet
Viola odorata - Sweet Violet
Viola pedunculata - Yellow Pansy
Viola riviniana - Common Dog Violet
Viola tricolor - Wild Pansy or Heart's-ease
Viola adunca - Early Blue Violet
Viola nephrophylla - Northern Bog Violet
Viola pedatifida - Crowfoot Violet
Viola pubescens - Downy Yellow Violet
Viola rugulosa - Western Canada Violet
Growing Violets
Violets are easily cultivated through root cuttings or seeds.
Violets are best grown in the dappled shade of deciduous trees thus allowing full winter and spring sunshine.
Choose a site with full sun to light shade. Violets also like well-drained, fairly rich soil, so work in a spadeful or two of compost at planting time for best results.
Plant Violets in early spring, four to six weeks before your region's last frost date.
Plant 4 to 8 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Mulch to keep roots cooler longer.
Water only moderately. Although they love cool conditions, Violets don't need huge amounts of water.
Pinch off spent blooms to promote longer flowering.
Fertilize once after blooming starts.
Violet Plant Care
Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and plant them out in summer. Violets should receive extra moisture in dry weather, as Red Spider Mite is liable to attack if they are allowed to get parched. Spraying with a hose is helpful. Occasional feeding with soot water or liquid manure and even a top dressing of blood or bone is helpful for good blooms.
Division during the autumn or just after flowering. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions, though it is best to pot up smaller divisions and grow them in light shade in a greenhouse or cold frame until they are growing away well. Keep runners picked off during the growing season. This will encourage good sized flowers.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Peonies are herbaceous perennials. There are 30 species of Peonies, but some are woody shrubs. Peonies produce large, often fragrant flowers. Blooming in late Spring and early summer, Peonies come in shades of red to white or yellow. Peonies are native to Asia, Southern Europe and Western North America.
Peonies are hardy flowering plants that need little care and live through severe winters. After becoming established in a garden, Peonies bloom each spring for many years. Peonies are also extensively grown as ornamental plants for their very large, often scented cut flowers.
send flowers as gifts pick and send flowers from our exquisite selection
Two Types of Peonies are grown in home gardens:
1.The garden or herbaceous type or Paeonia hybrids: these have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall. Garden peonies grow from tubers.
2.Tree peony or Paeonia suffruticosa: these types often grow to eye-level height on woody stems with few branches. Tree peonies are shrub like plants grown either from seed or from grafts.
Varieties of Peonies include:
Chinese cut flower Peonies, with large double flowers in shades of red, pink, and white.
Semi-double Peonies, characterized by several rows of petals and a center of petals mixed with stamens.
Anemone Peonies, similar to the double Chinese variety of peonies, but with a center of narrow petals.
Japanese Peonies, noted for the contrasting color of the center petals and their finely divided foliage.
Fern leaf Peonies with delicate, fern-like foliage are dwarf in stature and bloom very early.
Single Peonies with only a few rows of petals standing in their utter simplicity.
Tips for growing Peonies:
Both types of Peonies can be planted in early autumn. Grown peonies can also be planted in spring.
Plant the tuber in a well prepared bed, working compost or peat moss into the soil.
Dig a hole approximately eighteen inches across and 18 inches deep for each tuber.
Space the holes so that the plants will be at least 3 feet apart. Fill the hole about half full of soil.
Mix in a handful of a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 at this time.
Plant the garden tuber with the uppermost eye not more than 2 inches below the ground surface.
A tuber planted too deeply will have difficulty producing blooms. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly.
Then fill the hole with the remaining soil, and press down firmly.
Water again to settle the tuber.
Plant a tree peony tuber with 4-5 inches of soil covering the graft.
Tips for Caring for Peonies:
Peonies should be fed in early spring and again halfway through the growing season.
During the dry summer months, Peonies require regular, deep watering.
Cultivate a half cup of low nitrogen fertilizer into the soil when the stems are about 2 or 3 inches high.
Take care not to damage the roots, and try to keep the fertilizer from direct contact with them, and do not over-fertilize, as it results in weak stems and reduced flowering.
The feeding is important since the peony plant makes a very rapid early growth and needs this complete feeding to produce foliage and blooms.
For larger blooms, disbud the plant, allowing only the terminal bud to develop.
For quantity of flowers and a longer flowering season, leave some of the lateral buds.
To prevent the flowers from breaking or bending over during a strong wind or rain, provide a sturdy plant stake and tie the stem loosely to it with garden twine or strips of cloth.
Remove the flowers as soon as they fade to prevent seed development, which will use up needed food reserves, and affect next year's bloom.
In the fall, after the foliage dies back, cut the stems back to three inches, remove and destroy them.
Peonies are hardy flowering plants that need little care and live through severe winters. After becoming established in a garden, Peonies bloom each spring for many years. Peonies are also extensively grown as ornamental plants for their very large, often scented cut flowers.
send flowers as gifts pick and send flowers from our exquisite selection
Two Types of Peonies are grown in home gardens:
1.The garden or herbaceous type or Paeonia hybrids: these have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall. Garden peonies grow from tubers.
2.Tree peony or Paeonia suffruticosa: these types often grow to eye-level height on woody stems with few branches. Tree peonies are shrub like plants grown either from seed or from grafts.
Varieties of Peonies include:
Chinese cut flower Peonies, with large double flowers in shades of red, pink, and white.
Semi-double Peonies, characterized by several rows of petals and a center of petals mixed with stamens.
Anemone Peonies, similar to the double Chinese variety of peonies, but with a center of narrow petals.
Japanese Peonies, noted for the contrasting color of the center petals and their finely divided foliage.
Fern leaf Peonies with delicate, fern-like foliage are dwarf in stature and bloom very early.
Single Peonies with only a few rows of petals standing in their utter simplicity.
Tips for growing Peonies:
Both types of Peonies can be planted in early autumn. Grown peonies can also be planted in spring.
Plant the tuber in a well prepared bed, working compost or peat moss into the soil.
Dig a hole approximately eighteen inches across and 18 inches deep for each tuber.
Space the holes so that the plants will be at least 3 feet apart. Fill the hole about half full of soil.
Mix in a handful of a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 at this time.
Plant the garden tuber with the uppermost eye not more than 2 inches below the ground surface.
A tuber planted too deeply will have difficulty producing blooms. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly.
Then fill the hole with the remaining soil, and press down firmly.
Water again to settle the tuber.
Plant a tree peony tuber with 4-5 inches of soil covering the graft.
Tips for Caring for Peonies:
Peonies should be fed in early spring and again halfway through the growing season.
During the dry summer months, Peonies require regular, deep watering.
Cultivate a half cup of low nitrogen fertilizer into the soil when the stems are about 2 or 3 inches high.
Take care not to damage the roots, and try to keep the fertilizer from direct contact with them, and do not over-fertilize, as it results in weak stems and reduced flowering.
The feeding is important since the peony plant makes a very rapid early growth and needs this complete feeding to produce foliage and blooms.
For larger blooms, disbud the plant, allowing only the terminal bud to develop.
For quantity of flowers and a longer flowering season, leave some of the lateral buds.
To prevent the flowers from breaking or bending over during a strong wind or rain, provide a sturdy plant stake and tie the stem loosely to it with garden twine or strips of cloth.
Remove the flowers as soon as they fade to prevent seed development, which will use up needed food reserves, and affect next year's bloom.
In the fall, after the foliage dies back, cut the stems back to three inches, remove and destroy them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Irises are wonderful garden plants. The word Iris means rainbow. Irises come in many colors such as blue and purple, white and yellow, pink and orange, brown and red, and even black.
The genus Iris has about 200 species and is native to the North Temperate regions of the world. The habitat of irises also varies a lot. Some irises grow in deserts, some in swamps, some in the cold far north, and many in temperate climates. Bearded Iris and Siberian Iris are two of the most common types of irises grown.
Some Interesting Facts about Iris
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes and the sword-like foliage is attractive when the plant is not in bloom.
The Iris was named after the Greek goddess who is considered to be the messenger of love and uses the rainbow to travel. Iris was probably named after the goddess because of the numerous colors it is available in.
Irises are among the best-known and loved among garden plants. Irises are hardy herbaceous perennials.
The genus Iris is a large genus of bulbous and rhizomatous perennials.
The Iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow because of its many colors.
A flower on the Sphinx is considered to be an Iris, and another appears on a bas-relief of the time of the 18th Egyptian dynasty.
Pliny also knew the Iris and praised its medicinal virtues.
The Iris was also a favorite flower of the Moslems who took it to Spain after their conquest in the 8th century.
Types of Irises
Irises are classified into two major groups, Rhizome Irises and Bulbous Irises. Within those groups are countless species, varieties, cultivars and hybrids, according to the American Iris Society.
Rhizome Irises are thickened stems that grow horizontally, either underground or partially underground. After planting, iris rhizomes produce sword like leaves that overlap, forming flat fans of green foliage. Three popular irises in this group are Bearded, Beardless and Crested Irises.
The bearded iris has four distinct parts: the Standards, Falls, Stigma flaps, and Beard
The beardless variety has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps, but usually have crests
The crested Irises or Evansia Iris has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps and in addition to a ridge on the falls of the blossom, they have ridges like crests instead of beards
Crested irises are often considered in the same manner as the beardless iris. These plants spread freely by underground stems and produce flat flowers in the shades of blue, violet and white. Often the flowers and leaves are found on bamboo like stems which can vary in height from 5-200 centimeters in height.
Growing Irises
Before planting Iris, improve the soil conditions by using a slow release fertilizer. To increase the organic matter content, use compost, peat moss or well-rotted manure. Fertilizer and organic matter should be worked thoroughly into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
Wooded areas with good drainage and partial shade are ideal spots for the crested iris.
Irises are grown from both seed and root separation.
The roots or rhizomes, are easily separated and replanted.
The rhizome looks like a long, thin potato with roots underneath.
When transplanting, separate the rhizome. Make sure to have some root and a leaf or two in each section.
Plant the rhizomes near the surface with the roots below.
Divide the clumps and plant single rhizomes, spacing them 8 to 18 inches apart according to the effect desired.
Spade a planting hole about 10 inches deep and work 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer into the soil in the bottom of the hole.
If the soil is heavy, some drainage material such as gravel or broken pottery should be placed in the hole.
Fill the hole with loose soil and place the root section so that it will not be covered more than 1 inch deep.
Most Beardless Irises can also be propagated from seeds.
Iris Plant Care
Apply a thin layer of compost around the base of plants each spring, leaving the rhizome exposed.
As flowers fade, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant.
To encourage a second bloom on re-blooming varieties, promptly remove faded flowers and maintain consistent watering throughout the summer.
In autumn, trim away dead foliage and prune back healthy leaves to a height of 4 to 5 inches.
Once the soil has frozen, apply a layer of mulch to help prevent roots from heaving out of the soil during alternate freezing and thawing.
If heaving occurs, don't try to force plants back into the soil. Instead, cover rhizomes and exposed roots with soil.
Divide bearded irises every 4 to 5 years, preferably in late summer. Each division should have one or two leaf fans. Older rhizomes that have few white feeding roots should be discarded.
Other Uses of Iris
The juice of the fresh roots of Iris, bruised with wine, has been employed as a strong purge of great efficiency in dropsy.
Iris roots are used to treat skin diseases. The juice of Irises are also sometimes used as a cosmetic for the removal of freckles on the skin.
The fresh root of the Iris germanica is a powerful cathartic, and for this reason its juice has been employed in dropsy. It is chiefly used in the dry state, being said to be good for complaints of the lungs, for coughs and hoarseness, but is now more valued for the pleasantness of its violet-like perfume than for any other use.
Iris flowers are used as a liver purge.
Purple Iris
Purple Iris Flowers bloom for two to three weeks in the late spring to early summer.
The Purple Iris is the state flower of Tennessee.
The Purple Iris can be grown in your home, in containers.
The majority of Iris flowers are in Purple.
The genus Iris has about 200 species and is native to the North Temperate regions of the world. The habitat of irises also varies a lot. Some irises grow in deserts, some in swamps, some in the cold far north, and many in temperate climates. Bearded Iris and Siberian Iris are two of the most common types of irises grown.
Some Interesting Facts about Iris
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes and the sword-like foliage is attractive when the plant is not in bloom.
The Iris was named after the Greek goddess who is considered to be the messenger of love and uses the rainbow to travel. Iris was probably named after the goddess because of the numerous colors it is available in.
Irises are among the best-known and loved among garden plants. Irises are hardy herbaceous perennials.
The genus Iris is a large genus of bulbous and rhizomatous perennials.
The Iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow because of its many colors.
A flower on the Sphinx is considered to be an Iris, and another appears on a bas-relief of the time of the 18th Egyptian dynasty.
Pliny also knew the Iris and praised its medicinal virtues.
The Iris was also a favorite flower of the Moslems who took it to Spain after their conquest in the 8th century.
Types of Irises
Irises are classified into two major groups, Rhizome Irises and Bulbous Irises. Within those groups are countless species, varieties, cultivars and hybrids, according to the American Iris Society.
Rhizome Irises are thickened stems that grow horizontally, either underground or partially underground. After planting, iris rhizomes produce sword like leaves that overlap, forming flat fans of green foliage. Three popular irises in this group are Bearded, Beardless and Crested Irises.
The bearded iris has four distinct parts: the Standards, Falls, Stigma flaps, and Beard
The beardless variety has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps, but usually have crests
The crested Irises or Evansia Iris has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps and in addition to a ridge on the falls of the blossom, they have ridges like crests instead of beards
Crested irises are often considered in the same manner as the beardless iris. These plants spread freely by underground stems and produce flat flowers in the shades of blue, violet and white. Often the flowers and leaves are found on bamboo like stems which can vary in height from 5-200 centimeters in height.
Growing Irises
Before planting Iris, improve the soil conditions by using a slow release fertilizer. To increase the organic matter content, use compost, peat moss or well-rotted manure. Fertilizer and organic matter should be worked thoroughly into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
Wooded areas with good drainage and partial shade are ideal spots for the crested iris.
Irises are grown from both seed and root separation.
The roots or rhizomes, are easily separated and replanted.
The rhizome looks like a long, thin potato with roots underneath.
When transplanting, separate the rhizome. Make sure to have some root and a leaf or two in each section.
Plant the rhizomes near the surface with the roots below.
Divide the clumps and plant single rhizomes, spacing them 8 to 18 inches apart according to the effect desired.
Spade a planting hole about 10 inches deep and work 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer into the soil in the bottom of the hole.
If the soil is heavy, some drainage material such as gravel or broken pottery should be placed in the hole.
Fill the hole with loose soil and place the root section so that it will not be covered more than 1 inch deep.
Most Beardless Irises can also be propagated from seeds.
Iris Plant Care
Apply a thin layer of compost around the base of plants each spring, leaving the rhizome exposed.
As flowers fade, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant.
To encourage a second bloom on re-blooming varieties, promptly remove faded flowers and maintain consistent watering throughout the summer.
In autumn, trim away dead foliage and prune back healthy leaves to a height of 4 to 5 inches.
Once the soil has frozen, apply a layer of mulch to help prevent roots from heaving out of the soil during alternate freezing and thawing.
If heaving occurs, don't try to force plants back into the soil. Instead, cover rhizomes and exposed roots with soil.
Divide bearded irises every 4 to 5 years, preferably in late summer. Each division should have one or two leaf fans. Older rhizomes that have few white feeding roots should be discarded.
Other Uses of Iris
The juice of the fresh roots of Iris, bruised with wine, has been employed as a strong purge of great efficiency in dropsy.
Iris roots are used to treat skin diseases. The juice of Irises are also sometimes used as a cosmetic for the removal of freckles on the skin.
The fresh root of the Iris germanica is a powerful cathartic, and for this reason its juice has been employed in dropsy. It is chiefly used in the dry state, being said to be good for complaints of the lungs, for coughs and hoarseness, but is now more valued for the pleasantness of its violet-like perfume than for any other use.
Iris flowers are used as a liver purge.
Purple Iris
Purple Iris Flowers bloom for two to three weeks in the late spring to early summer.
The Purple Iris is the state flower of Tennessee.
The Purple Iris can be grown in your home, in containers.
The majority of Iris flowers are in Purple.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Gladiolus comprises 260 species, 250 of which are native to sub-Saharan Africa, mostly South Africa. About 10 species are native to Eurasia. The impressive flower spikes of Gladioli come in a wide array of beautiful colors.
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Freesia is a genus of about 14 species. Freesia bulbs are usually grown for use asCut Flowers. All the 14 species of Freesia are African in origin. Of The 14 Freesia species, 12 are native to Cape Province, South Africa, the remaining two to tropical Africa, with one these species extending north of the equator to Sudan. Freesia flowers are very fragrant, typically white or yellow, and are borne in spikelike racemes. This blooming beauty captures your heart and is a springtime favorite.
Freesia plants grow from a corm (a solid bulb, as in Gladiolus). The Freesia orm sends up a tuft of long narrow leaves and a slightly branched stem. Freesia Flowers are borne as loose one-sided spikes of narrowly funnel-shaped flowers along a side few leaves. Some excellent Freesia varieties (old-fashioned) for fragrance include: Athene, Allure, Demeter, Excelsior, Golden Wave, Mirabel, Pink Westlind, Snowdon, and Welkin.
The tender, cormous plant, Freesia originated in South Africa. The leaves on Freesia are sword shaped and light green and may be up to 1 feet high. Freesia Flower stalks are slender and about the same height. As many as 8 funnel-shaped Freesia flowers form a loose cluster at the top of each stalk. Where the flowers begin, the stem makes a sharp bend so that the Freesia flowers face upward.
Facts About Freesia
Freesia bloom was named by Dr. Freese (1785-1876) , a native of Kiel, Germany.
The flowers come in a great variety of colors - white, golden yellow, orange, red, pink, mauve, lavender, purple and bicolors.
Freesia perfume has a light, sweet, soap-like floral scent - trendy in soaps, lotions and so forth.
Freesia flower bouquets are also used for gifting on special occassions. Freesia flowers are symbolic of innocence.
Freesia are very poularly used in the perfume, scented oils and baths and other related industries.
Freesia Fragrance Oil
Fragrance Oils are artificially created fragrances, which contain artificial substances. Freesia fragrance oil is suitable for use in oil burners and vapourisers. It can also be used to refragrance pot pourries. Freesia fragrance oil can also be used in any of the vapourisers, such as the ceramic lamp ring, drivetime car vapouriser, radiator vapouriser or mini vaporiser.
Freesia essence oil is uncut, undiluted, alcohol free, long lasting, high grade essence oil. The oil is excellent for aromatherapy uses - to scent candles, freshen potpourri, in soap making, massage oils, bath oil and of course, as a Freesia perfume body oil - to smell just truly great.
Growing Freesia Flowers
The corms should be planted close - six will do nicely in a 5 inch pot.
Soil should be light and should be drained well.
Place the top of the corm, 1 inch below the soil.
For winter flowers, plant freesia in late summer or early fall and keep them cool until frosts are due.
During winter, bring freesia bulbs in and keep them in a sunny window.
Plant Care
Freesias are propagated by offsets of bulbs and seeds.
Freesia plants need full sun and cool night temperatures, preferably between 45 and 40 degrees.
Keep the plants well watered while the leaves and flowers are developing.
When the leaves begin to brown after the flowers have faded, the plants may be gradually dried off and the corms saved for the following year.
Freesia plants grow from a corm (a solid bulb, as in Gladiolus). The Freesia orm sends up a tuft of long narrow leaves and a slightly branched stem. Freesia Flowers are borne as loose one-sided spikes of narrowly funnel-shaped flowers along a side few leaves. Some excellent Freesia varieties (old-fashioned) for fragrance include: Athene, Allure, Demeter, Excelsior, Golden Wave, Mirabel, Pink Westlind, Snowdon, and Welkin.
The tender, cormous plant, Freesia originated in South Africa. The leaves on Freesia are sword shaped and light green and may be up to 1 feet high. Freesia Flower stalks are slender and about the same height. As many as 8 funnel-shaped Freesia flowers form a loose cluster at the top of each stalk. Where the flowers begin, the stem makes a sharp bend so that the Freesia flowers face upward.
Facts About Freesia
Freesia bloom was named by Dr. Freese (1785-1876) , a native of Kiel, Germany.
The flowers come in a great variety of colors - white, golden yellow, orange, red, pink, mauve, lavender, purple and bicolors.
Freesia perfume has a light, sweet, soap-like floral scent - trendy in soaps, lotions and so forth.
Freesia flower bouquets are also used for gifting on special occassions. Freesia flowers are symbolic of innocence.
Freesia are very poularly used in the perfume, scented oils and baths and other related industries.
Freesia Fragrance Oil
Fragrance Oils are artificially created fragrances, which contain artificial substances. Freesia fragrance oil is suitable for use in oil burners and vapourisers. It can also be used to refragrance pot pourries. Freesia fragrance oil can also be used in any of the vapourisers, such as the ceramic lamp ring, drivetime car vapouriser, radiator vapouriser or mini vaporiser.
Freesia essence oil is uncut, undiluted, alcohol free, long lasting, high grade essence oil. The oil is excellent for aromatherapy uses - to scent candles, freshen potpourri, in soap making, massage oils, bath oil and of course, as a Freesia perfume body oil - to smell just truly great.
Growing Freesia Flowers
The corms should be planted close - six will do nicely in a 5 inch pot.
Soil should be light and should be drained well.
Place the top of the corm, 1 inch below the soil.
For winter flowers, plant freesia in late summer or early fall and keep them cool until frosts are due.
During winter, bring freesia bulbs in and keep them in a sunny window.
Plant Care
Freesias are propagated by offsets of bulbs and seeds.
Freesia plants need full sun and cool night temperatures, preferably between 45 and 40 degrees.
Keep the plants well watered while the leaves and flowers are developing.
When the leaves begin to brown after the flowers have faded, the plants may be gradually dried off and the corms saved for the following year.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Anemone consists of 120 species of perennial flowering plants, which grow from tubers. Anemones grow wild in many European countries, in North America, and Japan. Anemones are closely related to Pasque flower (Pulsatilla) and Hepatica (Hepatica); some botanists include both of these genera within the genus Anemone.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Alstroemeria, commonly called the Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas or Parrot Lily is a South American genus of about 50 species of flowering plants, mainly from the cool, mountainous regions in the Andes.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia hirta and other species
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) are native to North America and one of the most popular wildflowers grown. They tend to blanket open fields, often surprising the passerby with their golden-yellow beauty.
Members of the sunflower family, the “black eye” is named for the dark, brown-purple centers of its daisy-like flower heads. The plants can grow to over 3 feet tall, with leaves of 6 inches, stalks over 8 inches long and flower diameter of 2 to 3 inches.
Butterflies, bees, and a variety of insects are attracted to the flowers for the nectar. As they drink the nectar, they move pollen from one plant to another, causing it to grow fruits and seeds that can move about easily with the wind.
These plants bloom from June to October. Note that they can be territorial in that they tend to squash out other flowers growing near them.
Black-eyed Susans are good for cut flowers; they also work well for borders or in containers.
PLANTING
Plant black-eyed Susans when the soil temperature has reached 70°F for best seed germination. In many parts of North America, the planting period is March to May. The flower will flower June to September. Germination takes 7 to 30 days.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil.
These hearty flowers really enjoy the Sun. They prefer full sun, though they’ll grow in partial sun.
Sow by seed in loosely covered soil.
It’s best if soil is fertile (not poor) though they can tolerate tough conditions.
Black-eyed Susans generally grow between 1 and 3 feet tall (though they can grow taller) and can spread between 12 to 18 inches, so plant seeds closer to prevent lots of spreading or plant further apart to make a nice border.
CARE
Check your plants regularly to see if they need watering. Make sure they don’t dry out.
Divide perennial types every 3 to 4 years to ensure healthy plants and to prevent excessive spreading.
Be sure to remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
You can cut back black-eyed Susans after they flower and a second, smaller bloom may occur in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
These plants are susceptible to powdery mildew fungi, so begin an organic antifungal program if the lower leaves turn brown and twisted.
Slugs and snails
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Smut
Leaf spots
Luckily, black-eyed Susans are deer-resistant plants.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) are native to North America and one of the most popular wildflowers grown. They tend to blanket open fields, often surprising the passerby with their golden-yellow beauty.
Members of the sunflower family, the “black eye” is named for the dark, brown-purple centers of its daisy-like flower heads. The plants can grow to over 3 feet tall, with leaves of 6 inches, stalks over 8 inches long and flower diameter of 2 to 3 inches.
Butterflies, bees, and a variety of insects are attracted to the flowers for the nectar. As they drink the nectar, they move pollen from one plant to another, causing it to grow fruits and seeds that can move about easily with the wind.
These plants bloom from June to October. Note that they can be territorial in that they tend to squash out other flowers growing near them.
Black-eyed Susans are good for cut flowers; they also work well for borders or in containers.
PLANTING
Plant black-eyed Susans when the soil temperature has reached 70°F for best seed germination. In many parts of North America, the planting period is March to May. The flower will flower June to September. Germination takes 7 to 30 days.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil.
These hearty flowers really enjoy the Sun. They prefer full sun, though they’ll grow in partial sun.
Sow by seed in loosely covered soil.
It’s best if soil is fertile (not poor) though they can tolerate tough conditions.
Black-eyed Susans generally grow between 1 and 3 feet tall (though they can grow taller) and can spread between 12 to 18 inches, so plant seeds closer to prevent lots of spreading or plant further apart to make a nice border.
CARE
Check your plants regularly to see if they need watering. Make sure they don’t dry out.
Divide perennial types every 3 to 4 years to ensure healthy plants and to prevent excessive spreading.
Be sure to remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
You can cut back black-eyed Susans after they flower and a second, smaller bloom may occur in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
These plants are susceptible to powdery mildew fungi, so begin an organic antifungal program if the lower leaves turn brown and twisted.
Slugs and snails
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Smut
Leaf spots
Luckily, black-eyed Susans are deer-resistant plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over a hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
The tulip is a Eurasian and North African genus of herbaceous, perennial, bulbous plants in the lily family, with showy flowers. About 75 wild species are currently accepted.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Deciding on what is the best location to place your Bonsai trees can be hard, as several factors (local climate, time of year, tree species, etc.) should be taken into consideration.
Bonsai location; rule of thumb
Most outdoor trees are best placed on a bright spot, about half the day in direct sunlight and protected from the wind. Continue reading about outdoor species here.
Indoor trees are best placed on a bright position as well; usually right in front of a window facing the South. Place indoor trees somewhere with a constant temperature. Continue reading about indoor Bonsai here.
Bonsai location; rule of thumb
Most outdoor trees are best placed on a bright spot, about half the day in direct sunlight and protected from the wind. Continue reading about outdoor species here.
Indoor trees are best placed on a bright position as well; usually right in front of a window facing the South. Place indoor trees somewhere with a constant temperature. Continue reading about indoor Bonsai here.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species, there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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