文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The rose family (Rosaceae) is an amazingly large family of flowering plants characterized by flowers with five separate petals and numerous stamens that protrude from a cup-like base. There are over 2800 species of ornamental roses: over 100 of these are wild with 35 native to the United States. Rosaceae is the third largest plant family in both world distribution and economic importance. Plants in the Rosacea family are surpassed in number only by the plant families of peas (Fabales) and grass (Poaceae).
The Family Rosaceae
The Rosaceae family includes several popular fruit bearing plants such as almond (Prunus dulcis), apricot, (Prunus armeniaca), pear (Pyrus calleryana), plum (Prunus domestica), apple (Malus pumila), cherry (Prunus avium or sweet cherry) (Prunus cerasus or sour cherry), peach and nectarine (Prunus persica), strawberry (Fragaria ananassa) and raspberry (Rubus), as well as ornamental roses (Rosa). Plants from the Rosacae family yield fruits and flowers that are of immense economic importance. The value of these fruits, rose plants, cut roses and other products derived from the plant family support a wide variety of industries, farms and employees. The monies generated from product sales exceed $180 billion dollars annually.
Rose Bushes & Cut Flowers
Rose bushes are used as ornamental plants and cut roses are the favored flower of wedding bouquets and floral gifts. The majority of cut roses are sold by florist for three major United States holidays; Valentine's Day, Mother's Day and Christmas. However, roses are considered the "gift of lovers" and are sold year-around for floral delivery and cut flower sales. Roses sold during the three holiday periods may sell for up to ten times the cost of the price realized by growers during the remainder of the year. It is estimated, that as many as 130 billion rose stems are sold annually worldwide. Roses grown for transplant can be planted from early spring until late fall. Rose bush sales are a major portion of plant nursery and landscape plant contractor sales.
Fragrance
Bulgaria, which produces the famous "Bulgarian Rose", highly prized by the perfume industry for it's intense fragrance, has seen a sharp decline in rose production. Subsidies to farmers that grew Bulgarian Roses have been reduced and land cultivation has been diverted to more lucrative cash crops. To replace the depletion of Bulgarian Rose cultivation, other highly fragrant roses from Persia and Africa are grown for their fragrant oil. Rose essential oil is used in soaps, shampoos, lotions, potions and a plethora of cosmetic products.
North American Rose Growers
The number of North American growers of commercial roses has declined over the past decades from over 500 growers to less than 50. The majority of the world's rose supply is provided by over 200 million rose plants grown in Africa, Central and South America. North America is unable to compete with the low cost of labor available in these regions.
Economic Impact
Roses are cherished around the world for their beauty and scent. To meet the enormous demand for cut roses, rose bushes and rose oil, commercial growers plant literally tens of thousands of acres of roses. Growing roses is labor intensive as they require pruning, spraying, fertilizing and harvesting, most of which must be done by hand. Rose cultivation provides employment to workers in the farming, transportation, marketing, delivery industries as well as wholesale and retail sales outlets. Internationally, the cut floral industry, of which roses accounts for two-thirds of all selections, exceeds $40 billion dollars each year.
The Family Rosaceae
The Rosaceae family includes several popular fruit bearing plants such as almond (Prunus dulcis), apricot, (Prunus armeniaca), pear (Pyrus calleryana), plum (Prunus domestica), apple (Malus pumila), cherry (Prunus avium or sweet cherry) (Prunus cerasus or sour cherry), peach and nectarine (Prunus persica), strawberry (Fragaria ananassa) and raspberry (Rubus), as well as ornamental roses (Rosa). Plants from the Rosacae family yield fruits and flowers that are of immense economic importance. The value of these fruits, rose plants, cut roses and other products derived from the plant family support a wide variety of industries, farms and employees. The monies generated from product sales exceed $180 billion dollars annually.
Rose Bushes & Cut Flowers
Rose bushes are used as ornamental plants and cut roses are the favored flower of wedding bouquets and floral gifts. The majority of cut roses are sold by florist for three major United States holidays; Valentine's Day, Mother's Day and Christmas. However, roses are considered the "gift of lovers" and are sold year-around for floral delivery and cut flower sales. Roses sold during the three holiday periods may sell for up to ten times the cost of the price realized by growers during the remainder of the year. It is estimated, that as many as 130 billion rose stems are sold annually worldwide. Roses grown for transplant can be planted from early spring until late fall. Rose bush sales are a major portion of plant nursery and landscape plant contractor sales.
Fragrance
Bulgaria, which produces the famous "Bulgarian Rose", highly prized by the perfume industry for it's intense fragrance, has seen a sharp decline in rose production. Subsidies to farmers that grew Bulgarian Roses have been reduced and land cultivation has been diverted to more lucrative cash crops. To replace the depletion of Bulgarian Rose cultivation, other highly fragrant roses from Persia and Africa are grown for their fragrant oil. Rose essential oil is used in soaps, shampoos, lotions, potions and a plethora of cosmetic products.
North American Rose Growers
The number of North American growers of commercial roses has declined over the past decades from over 500 growers to less than 50. The majority of the world's rose supply is provided by over 200 million rose plants grown in Africa, Central and South America. North America is unable to compete with the low cost of labor available in these regions.
Economic Impact
Roses are cherished around the world for their beauty and scent. To meet the enormous demand for cut roses, rose bushes and rose oil, commercial growers plant literally tens of thousands of acres of roses. Growing roses is labor intensive as they require pruning, spraying, fertilizing and harvesting, most of which must be done by hand. Rose cultivation provides employment to workers in the farming, transportation, marketing, delivery industries as well as wholesale and retail sales outlets. Internationally, the cut floral industry, of which roses accounts for two-thirds of all selections, exceeds $40 billion dollars each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen are common flowering gift plants but there are also North American native species found in the wild. The plants make excellent container or garden bed specimens and can even thrive and bloom for months indoors. However, cyclamen plants have an interesting life cycle and certain needs to perform best. Without good care, drooping cyclamen plants are common. Learn the causes and how to revive a drooping cyclamen.
Why is Cyclamen Drooping?
Drooping leaves on cyclamen may be the result of a natural process. Plants begin re-growth in fall and are actively growing in winter. By the time the heat of summer appears, the plants are slowly dying back and eventually there will be no sign that they were there. This process is natural and may result in drooping leaves on cyclamen. Wait until fall and see if you don’t find it coming back for its spring performance. Droopy cyclamen flowers may also be due to cultural conditions and can be easily corrected. Cyclamen prefers Mediterranean climates and does not tolerate excessive heat or cold. The best temperatures are temperate and moderate. Drooping leaves on cyclamen are a common symptom of heat or cold stress. The plant also prefers bright but indirect light. Plants situated in a southern window or in a hot area of the garden may suffer and indicate their distress by drooping. Droopy cyclamen flowers occur when a plant has too much water. Cyclamens prefer moist soil but not boggy conditions. If planted in ground, make sure the soil percolates well; and if it doesn’t, add some gritty material to improve drainage. Plants in containers should also have well-draining soil and several holes in the bottom of the pot.
Plants that are kept too wet will develop drooping leaves as well as crown rot. This results in the core of the plant being overrun by fungal disease and causes eventual plant death. Cyclamen respond well to extra humidity and like to have their leaves sprayed but provide good ventilation so the leaves can dry off quickly. Most insects aren’t an issue but if you spot any sucking pests, like aphids, combat quickly with horticultural soap.
How to Revive a Droopy Cyclamen
Cyclamens are quite forgiving of incorrect culture provided you don’t drown the poor things. A sickly cyclamen in a container may simply need new potting soil. The plant rises from tubers and tubers in boggy soil become water logged and develop soft spots. Remove the plant from the soil and rinse off the tubers. Check each for any damage and separate any with soft spots or discoloration. Use fresh, sterile soil and replant the tubers, burying them half their length in depth. Keep the soil moist and in a cool, indirectly lit area. Cyclamen in their dormant phase need a bit less water than when they are actively growing. Increase water in late winter to early spring. Use ¼ teaspoon per gallon of houseplant food every time you water from late winter until the plant begins to stop blooming. Suspend fertilizer during the dormant phase.
Why is Cyclamen Drooping?
Drooping leaves on cyclamen may be the result of a natural process. Plants begin re-growth in fall and are actively growing in winter. By the time the heat of summer appears, the plants are slowly dying back and eventually there will be no sign that they were there. This process is natural and may result in drooping leaves on cyclamen. Wait until fall and see if you don’t find it coming back for its spring performance. Droopy cyclamen flowers may also be due to cultural conditions and can be easily corrected. Cyclamen prefers Mediterranean climates and does not tolerate excessive heat or cold. The best temperatures are temperate and moderate. Drooping leaves on cyclamen are a common symptom of heat or cold stress. The plant also prefers bright but indirect light. Plants situated in a southern window or in a hot area of the garden may suffer and indicate their distress by drooping. Droopy cyclamen flowers occur when a plant has too much water. Cyclamens prefer moist soil but not boggy conditions. If planted in ground, make sure the soil percolates well; and if it doesn’t, add some gritty material to improve drainage. Plants in containers should also have well-draining soil and several holes in the bottom of the pot.
Plants that are kept too wet will develop drooping leaves as well as crown rot. This results in the core of the plant being overrun by fungal disease and causes eventual plant death. Cyclamen respond well to extra humidity and like to have their leaves sprayed but provide good ventilation so the leaves can dry off quickly. Most insects aren’t an issue but if you spot any sucking pests, like aphids, combat quickly with horticultural soap.
How to Revive a Droopy Cyclamen
Cyclamens are quite forgiving of incorrect culture provided you don’t drown the poor things. A sickly cyclamen in a container may simply need new potting soil. The plant rises from tubers and tubers in boggy soil become water logged and develop soft spots. Remove the plant from the soil and rinse off the tubers. Check each for any damage and separate any with soft spots or discoloration. Use fresh, sterile soil and replant the tubers, burying them half their length in depth. Keep the soil moist and in a cool, indirectly lit area. Cyclamen in their dormant phase need a bit less water than when they are actively growing. Increase water in late winter to early spring. Use ¼ teaspoon per gallon of houseplant food every time you water from late winter until the plant begins to stop blooming. Suspend fertilizer during the dormant phase.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Although there are more than 20 species of cyclamen, florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is the most familiar, typically given as gifts to brighten up the indoor environment during late winter’s gloom. This little charmer is especially popular around Christmas and Valentine’s Day, but what about caring for cyclamen after flowering? If you’ve been wondering how to treat cyclamen after blooming, read on to learn how to do just that!
Keeping Cyclamen After Blooms Fade
What to do with a cyclamen after flowering? Often, florist’s cyclamen is considered a seasonal gift. It can be difficult to get a cyclamen to rebloom, so the plant is frequently discarded after it has lost its beauty. Although keeping cyclamens after blooms fade is a bit of a challenge, it’s definitely possible. Proper light and temperature are the keys to caring for cyclamen after flowering.
How to Treat Cyclamen After Blooming
It’s normal for cyclamen to lose its leaves and go dormant after flowering. The plant requires a period of dormancy during the summer so the tuberous root has time to re-energize for the coming blooming season. Here are the steps: Gradually cut back on watering when the leaves begin to wilt and turn yellow. Use scissors to remove all remaining dead and dying foliage. Place the tuber in a container with the top half of the tuber sitting above the surface of the soil. Put the container in a cool, shady room, away from bright or direct light. Be sure the plant isn’t exposed to frost.
Withhold water and fertilizer during the dormant period – generally six to eight weeks. Watering during dormancy will rot the tuber. As soon as you see new growth sometime between September and December, move the cyclamen into bright sunlight and water the plant thoroughly. Keep the cyclamen in a cool room with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 F. (16-18 C.), and nighttime temps at about 50 F. (10 C.). Feed the plant monthly, using a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants. Watch for the cyclamen to rebloom in midwinter, as long as conditions are just right.
Keeping Cyclamen After Blooms Fade
What to do with a cyclamen after flowering? Often, florist’s cyclamen is considered a seasonal gift. It can be difficult to get a cyclamen to rebloom, so the plant is frequently discarded after it has lost its beauty. Although keeping cyclamens after blooms fade is a bit of a challenge, it’s definitely possible. Proper light and temperature are the keys to caring for cyclamen after flowering.
How to Treat Cyclamen After Blooming
It’s normal for cyclamen to lose its leaves and go dormant after flowering. The plant requires a period of dormancy during the summer so the tuberous root has time to re-energize for the coming blooming season. Here are the steps: Gradually cut back on watering when the leaves begin to wilt and turn yellow. Use scissors to remove all remaining dead and dying foliage. Place the tuber in a container with the top half of the tuber sitting above the surface of the soil. Put the container in a cool, shady room, away from bright or direct light. Be sure the plant isn’t exposed to frost.
Withhold water and fertilizer during the dormant period – generally six to eight weeks. Watering during dormancy will rot the tuber. As soon as you see new growth sometime between September and December, move the cyclamen into bright sunlight and water the plant thoroughly. Keep the cyclamen in a cool room with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 F. (16-18 C.), and nighttime temps at about 50 F. (10 C.). Feed the plant monthly, using a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants. Watch for the cyclamen to rebloom in midwinter, as long as conditions are just right.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose hips are the fruit developed by rose plants after bloom and they mature on the rose plant through the fall and often into winter if left in place. Most species of roses produce hips in some size and amount, but old garden, heirloom and classic shrub roses will tend to develop more of them than modern, highly bred cultivars, according to the University of Illinois. Pruning rose hips can be done at several points in their development, depending entirely on your goals for plant performance and the look you like in your garden. Rose hips are edible for humans and contain high levels of vitamin C and are prized by birds and other animals as a food source.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Primroses (Primula polyanthus), an old-fashioned perennial popular in gardens for hundreds of years, is native to the Northern Hemisphere. Most primroses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. Over 400 species of the rosette-like plant grow both in the wild and cultivated in proper gardens, and one of the tricks gardeners learn early is that their primrose bed will last much longer if the plants are properly deadheaded.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
Deadheading Primroses
Deadheading simply means grooming the plant. By removing the spent flowers, you prevent your plant from going to seed, and allow it to mature. Cutting back the spent flower stems also encourages new growth, so you'll see fresh flowers. Once your plants have started to thrive, a simple walk around the garden several times a week allows you to see how your primroses are progressing and whether you might need to clean up the flowers that are spent.
Make sure you sterilize your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol before using them to deadhead your primroses.
Start checking your garden in late spring.
Carry a pair of scissors or a small pair of pruning shears in your pocket for the task. Some gardeners prefer to simply pinch away the spent flowers between thumb and forefinger, but sharp scissors make it easier to snip away the dead flower and leaves.
Wear rubber gloves -- some people might be allergic to certain varieties of plants. It also curbs the spread of disease if your naturally oily fingers are protected. Certain floral diseases easily spread when fingers flit from one flower to another.
Look for the flowers that have begun to fade or are drying out.
Reach down to the base of the flower stalk and hold the dead flower gently.
Bend the flower to expose the stem, and then either pinch or snip the dead flower away from the plant.
It's wise to carry a small bag or wear an apron and drop the dead flowers into the bag or apron rather than on the ground. You can dump your deadheaded materials into a recycling pile when you're done with your task.
Because too much water will rot primroses, check them occasionally and clip off any yellow or rotten lower leaves you see around the base of the plant. Removing rotten leaves promotes new growth. Your primrose bed might seem a bit droopy after you deadhead and trim old growth, but you'll be rewarded when new buds start to arrive.
If primroses get too wet, they can develop conditions like crown or root rot and become susceptible to garden bugs, like aphids or spiders.
Once your plants stop blooming, pull the primroses from the ground or your pots, and put them into containers until fall. The best soil is gritty and humus-rich. Keep your containers in a sheltered spot, and keep the plants moist but not wet.
Growing Primroses
You can grow primroses from seed or purchase your plants from a grower. If you choose to grow them from seed, be aware that the seeds are exceptionally small and it is difficult for the novice gardener to be successful starting these plants from seed.
Most primula varieties flower reliably and are easy to grow. Plant them in sun or partial shade, and choose an area or pot that provides good drainage. Primroses don't like to be wet. If you can shelter them, you'll have very happy plants.
Offering your plants liquid fertilizer every two weeks or so will encourage them to produce fresh buds and create a beautifully flowering plant.
Varieties
Most of the 450+ species of the genus primula like cooler weather and will not tolerate midsummer heat. They come in every color of the rainbow and the species names span the alphabet.
The varieties are distinguished by their rosette of leaves that resemble the leaves of a head of lettuce. In the center of the rosette are the flowers. Each flower has five petals joined at the base. Flowers appear on leafless stalks. Common colors include white, red, blue, yellow, purple and cream, but some species also produce bicolored flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses (Rosa spp.) produce showy, fragrant blooms that make them popular not only with gardeners, but also with various insect pests that enjoy feeding on the foliage. One common pest is the rose slug, which will feed on any rose species, including the Carolina rose (Rosa carolina) and the Knock Out rose (Rosa Radrazz), both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. You can choose from various control methods to kill rose slugs and keep your rose plants looking fabulous and smelling great.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Perennials are plants that live for more than three years, returning each spring as the weather warms up to once again brighten the landscape. With more than 150 species, roses have been in existence for more than 35 million years. While roses in the home garden may not last quite that long, proper site selection, planting, care and pruning will ensure that perennial roses do continue to bloom every year.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Often referred to as "Queen of the Garden," the rose is a perennial plant of the genus Rosa. There are more than 15,000 different species and hybrids cultivated around the world. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan signed legislation honoring the rose as the official flower of the United States.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Aralia is a striking, multi-stemmed member of the Araliaceae family, a huge family that consists of more than 70 species. With so many types of aralia from which to choose, plant lovers can enjoy this plant in a variety of forms, including deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees, and beautiful indoor plants. Read on for more aralia plant information, including growing aralias and care of aralias.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Common this orchid may be, but it is no less beautifulfor that. The variations in colour and lip-markingsbetween specimens bear testimony to the diversity thatcan be found in a single orchid species.
Description
This orchid usually grows to between 20cm and 50cm tall, butspecimens up to 70cm in height can sometimes be found; this makes itgenerally taller than the Heath Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza maculata with which it is often confused.
The lipof the Common Spotted-orchid has an exaggerated centraltooth.
Distribution
Found throughout most of Britain and Ireland, the Common Spotted-orchid can be seen in many countries of mainland Europe including Slovenia, where it grows in its thousands on roadside verges.
Habitat
This orchid is very common in Wales, where we live, and pops up all over the place - in the sand dunes at many of our coastal nature reserves, on roadside verges, roundabouts and central reservations (they thrive there because of the limestone chippings used to assist with drainage) as well as in unimproved grassland sites.
Provided the soil conditions are calcareous and the ground has not been doused with pesticides and herbicides you are quite likely to find theCommon Spotted-orchid.
Flowering times
The peak flowering time for Common Spotted-orchid is June.
Also found in Wales are the hybrid with Southern Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza praetermissa, - Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis - and the variety Dactylorhiza fuchsii var. rhodochila. The latter is rare, while the former is probably very common but may be easily confused with either or both parent plants.
Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis is a tall and robust plant with darkly-spotted leaves and deep-pink flowers. It is found where both parents occur, and occasionally where they apparently do not. This hybrid plant is capable of producing seed, and so hybrid swarms sometimes occur.
Description
This orchid usually grows to between 20cm and 50cm tall, butspecimens up to 70cm in height can sometimes be found; this makes itgenerally taller than the Heath Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza maculata with which it is often confused.
The lipof the Common Spotted-orchid has an exaggerated centraltooth.
Distribution
Found throughout most of Britain and Ireland, the Common Spotted-orchid can be seen in many countries of mainland Europe including Slovenia, where it grows in its thousands on roadside verges.
Habitat
This orchid is very common in Wales, where we live, and pops up all over the place - in the sand dunes at many of our coastal nature reserves, on roadside verges, roundabouts and central reservations (they thrive there because of the limestone chippings used to assist with drainage) as well as in unimproved grassland sites.
Provided the soil conditions are calcareous and the ground has not been doused with pesticides and herbicides you are quite likely to find theCommon Spotted-orchid.
Flowering times
The peak flowering time for Common Spotted-orchid is June.
Also found in Wales are the hybrid with Southern Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza praetermissa, - Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis - and the variety Dactylorhiza fuchsii var. rhodochila. The latter is rare, while the former is probably very common but may be easily confused with either or both parent plants.
Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis is a tall and robust plant with darkly-spotted leaves and deep-pink flowers. It is found where both parents occur, and occasionally where they apparently do not. This hybrid plant is capable of producing seed, and so hybrid swarms sometimes occur.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Common this orchid may be, but it is no less beautifulfor that. The variations in colour and lip-markingsbetween specimens bear testimony to the diversity thatcan be found in a single orchid species.
Description
This orchid usually grows to between 20cm and 50cm tall, butspecimens up to 70cm in height can sometimes be found; this makes itgenerally taller than the Heath Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza maculata with which it is often confused.
The lipof the Common Spotted-orchid has an exaggerated centraltooth.
Distribution
Found throughout most of Britain and Ireland, the Common Spotted-orchid can be seen in many countries of mainland Europe including Slovenia, where it grows in its thousands on roadside verges.
Habitat
This orchid is very common in Wales, where we live, and pops up all over the place - in the sand dunes at many of our coastal nature reserves, on roadside verges, roundabouts and central reservations (they thrive there because of the limestone chippings used to assist with drainage) as well as in unimproved grassland sites.
Provided the soil conditions are calcareous and the ground has not been doused with pesticides and herbicides you are quite likely to find theCommon Spotted-orchid.
Flowering times
The peak flowering time for Common Spotted-orchid is June.
Also found in Wales are the hybrid with Southern Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza praetermissa, - Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis - and the variety Dactylorhiza fuchsii var. rhodochila. The latter is rare, while the former is probably very common but may be easily confused with either or both parent plants.
Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis is a tall and robust plant with darkly-spotted leaves and deep-pink flowers. It is found where both parents occur, and occasionally where they apparently do not. This hybrid plant is capable of producing seed, and so hybrid swarms sometimes occur.
Description
This orchid usually grows to between 20cm and 50cm tall, butspecimens up to 70cm in height can sometimes be found; this makes itgenerally taller than the Heath Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza maculata with which it is often confused.
The lipof the Common Spotted-orchid has an exaggerated centraltooth.
Distribution
Found throughout most of Britain and Ireland, the Common Spotted-orchid can be seen in many countries of mainland Europe including Slovenia, where it grows in its thousands on roadside verges.
Habitat
This orchid is very common in Wales, where we live, and pops up all over the place - in the sand dunes at many of our coastal nature reserves, on roadside verges, roundabouts and central reservations (they thrive there because of the limestone chippings used to assist with drainage) as well as in unimproved grassland sites.
Provided the soil conditions are calcareous and the ground has not been doused with pesticides and herbicides you are quite likely to find theCommon Spotted-orchid.
Flowering times
The peak flowering time for Common Spotted-orchid is June.
Also found in Wales are the hybrid with Southern Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza praetermissa, - Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis - and the variety Dactylorhiza fuchsii var. rhodochila. The latter is rare, while the former is probably very common but may be easily confused with either or both parent plants.
Dactylorhiza fuchsii x grandis is a tall and robust plant with darkly-spotted leaves and deep-pink flowers. It is found where both parents occur, and occasionally where they apparently do not. This hybrid plant is capable of producing seed, and so hybrid swarms sometimes occur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The Lady's Slipper Orchid was recognised as a native European species in 1568, and the earliest record of a British plant is of a dried herbarium specimen from 1640, collected from the Ingleton area in Yorkshire.
Distribution
Although still widespread in some parts of Europe, the Lady's Slipper Orchid was always a rarity in Britian and consequently highly prized by plant collectors who, from the mid-18th Century, collected the plants with such ruthlessness that by 1888 great concern was being expressed at the disappearance of the Lady's Slipper Orchid from the wild. Regrettably the population continued to decline, resulting in its declared extinction by 1917.
In recent years a re-introduction programme has been carried out at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve in Lancashire. This programme which is jointly funded between Natural England and the Sainsburys Foundation has been very successful and there are now many flowering plants which can be visited by the public.
The best time to see this orchid at Gait Barrows NNR is in the first half of June.
Although driven to the brink of extinction in the UK the Lady's Slipper Orchid still occurs in the wild in various European countries including Sweden, Bulgaria, Slovenia, France, Switzerland and Finland.
The Lady's Slipper Orchid is rare and in decline in all its territories and is still the subject of plant theft.
Distribution
Although still widespread in some parts of Europe, the Lady's Slipper Orchid was always a rarity in Britian and consequently highly prized by plant collectors who, from the mid-18th Century, collected the plants with such ruthlessness that by 1888 great concern was being expressed at the disappearance of the Lady's Slipper Orchid from the wild. Regrettably the population continued to decline, resulting in its declared extinction by 1917.
In recent years a re-introduction programme has been carried out at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve in Lancashire. This programme which is jointly funded between Natural England and the Sainsburys Foundation has been very successful and there are now many flowering plants which can be visited by the public.
The best time to see this orchid at Gait Barrows NNR is in the first half of June.
Although driven to the brink of extinction in the UK the Lady's Slipper Orchid still occurs in the wild in various European countries including Sweden, Bulgaria, Slovenia, France, Switzerland and Finland.
The Lady's Slipper Orchid is rare and in decline in all its territories and is still the subject of plant theft.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Although an introduced alien species, Ivy-leaved Toadflax has had nearly 400 years to make itself at home in Britain and Ireland, and few people are aware that it is not a truly native wildflower.Identification
This trailing hairless perennial plant has lilac two-lipped flowers with two yellowish bulges on the lower lip. Its curved spur is unusually short for a toadflax. Flowers are 9 to 15mm across and each is borne on a long stalk growing from a leaf base.
It is easy to see how this plant spreads so rapidly: the fruit capsules develop on long stalks that gradually recurve towards the growing substrate and tuck their oval seeds into any likely places where the plant can get new toe-holds.The long-stalked leaves of Ivy-leaved Toadflax are palmate (sometimes but not always shaped rather like the leaves of Ivy!) with 3 to 7 lobes and ranging between 2.5 and 5cm across. Leaves alternate along the thin creeping red-flushed stems, which root at nodes whenever they find a suitable crevice. It seems meaningless to discus the 'height' of a plant that is equally at home on vertical and horizontal surfaces, but Cymbalaria muralis is low growing and the flowers are rarely more than 10cm away from the substrate.
Distribution
Native to the Mediterranean region and thought to have been brought to London with imported marble slabs from Italy in 1640, Ivy-leaved Toadflax was planted in gardens and has since escaped and become naturalised and very common throughout Britain and Ireland except for some parts of northern Scotland.Now very common throughout most of northern, central and southern Europe, Cymbalaria muralis has also become naturalised in many other parts of the world including North America, where its invasive qualities have resulted in a widespread distribution.
Habitat
Cymbalaria muralis is mainly found growing in and over walls, piles of rubble and similar places where its roots can get a grip in sparse soil that does not remain wet long enough for other plants to take over.
Blooming Times
The first flowers of Ivy-leaved Toadflax usually appear April and continue through to at least the end of September. In sheltered southern locations flowers can be seen all year round except in the harshest of winters.
Uses
Bare walls are made more attractive when colonised by Ivy-leaved Toadflax, but it is rarely necessary to plant these wildflowers because seeds, complete with a starter-pack of organic growing medium, are usually delivered by birds. The fruits are capsule-shaped which grow on long stalks that gradually recurve towards and into a likely place where the plant can get a new 'toe-hold'. Bees gather nectar from the flowers, and in so doing they contribute to pollination.
This trailing hairless perennial plant has lilac two-lipped flowers with two yellowish bulges on the lower lip. Its curved spur is unusually short for a toadflax. Flowers are 9 to 15mm across and each is borne on a long stalk growing from a leaf base.
It is easy to see how this plant spreads so rapidly: the fruit capsules develop on long stalks that gradually recurve towards the growing substrate and tuck their oval seeds into any likely places where the plant can get new toe-holds.The long-stalked leaves of Ivy-leaved Toadflax are palmate (sometimes but not always shaped rather like the leaves of Ivy!) with 3 to 7 lobes and ranging between 2.5 and 5cm across. Leaves alternate along the thin creeping red-flushed stems, which root at nodes whenever they find a suitable crevice. It seems meaningless to discus the 'height' of a plant that is equally at home on vertical and horizontal surfaces, but Cymbalaria muralis is low growing and the flowers are rarely more than 10cm away from the substrate.
Distribution
Native to the Mediterranean region and thought to have been brought to London with imported marble slabs from Italy in 1640, Ivy-leaved Toadflax was planted in gardens and has since escaped and become naturalised and very common throughout Britain and Ireland except for some parts of northern Scotland.Now very common throughout most of northern, central and southern Europe, Cymbalaria muralis has also become naturalised in many other parts of the world including North America, where its invasive qualities have resulted in a widespread distribution.
Habitat
Cymbalaria muralis is mainly found growing in and over walls, piles of rubble and similar places where its roots can get a grip in sparse soil that does not remain wet long enough for other plants to take over.
Blooming Times
The first flowers of Ivy-leaved Toadflax usually appear April and continue through to at least the end of September. In sheltered southern locations flowers can be seen all year round except in the harshest of winters.
Uses
Bare walls are made more attractive when colonised by Ivy-leaved Toadflax, but it is rarely necessary to plant these wildflowers because seeds, complete with a starter-pack of organic growing medium, are usually delivered by birds. The fruits are capsule-shaped which grow on long stalks that gradually recurve towards and into a likely place where the plant can get a new 'toe-hold'. Bees gather nectar from the flowers, and in so doing they contribute to pollination.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
This orchid is the most commonly found of the Coralroot Orchids that occur in the Pacific Northwest of America. It shares territory with the only species of Coralroot Orchid that is found in Europe, namely Corallorhiza trifida. In America the latter is known as Early Coralroot Orchid, while in Europe it is known simply as Coralroot Orchid due to its sole representation of the genus there.
Description
This colourful plant grows up to 60cm in height and has up to 40 dark red-to-purple flowers in its tall inflorescence.
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - although digging up a plant to confirm its identification is, of course, strictly illegal and so we have never seen this underground feature.
Distribution
Western Coralroot Orchid occurs from the Pacific Northwest to northwestern California and through most of British Columbia; it also grows in Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.
Habitat
This attractive orchid occurs mainly in dark or partially shaded coniferous and broadleaved forests. Although it produces some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), this orchid is largely saprophytic, depending mainly for its food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding its roots. Coralroot orchids are capable of self-pollination.
In America Corallorhiza mertensiana is distributed from southern Alaska south to California, and east to Montana and western Wyoming.
Flowering times
Western Spotted Coralroot Orchid flowers in June and July.
Description
This colourful plant grows up to 60cm in height and has up to 40 dark red-to-purple flowers in its tall inflorescence.
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - although digging up a plant to confirm its identification is, of course, strictly illegal and so we have never seen this underground feature.
Distribution
Western Coralroot Orchid occurs from the Pacific Northwest to northwestern California and through most of British Columbia; it also grows in Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.
Habitat
This attractive orchid occurs mainly in dark or partially shaded coniferous and broadleaved forests. Although it produces some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), this orchid is largely saprophytic, depending mainly for its food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding its roots. Coralroot orchids are capable of self-pollination.
In America Corallorhiza mertensiana is distributed from southern Alaska south to California, and east to Montana and western Wyoming.
Flowering times
Western Spotted Coralroot Orchid flowers in June and July.
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