求助
Ueca
2017年08月30日
What is the species of this succulent? Somebody posted a similar one recently, I believe.
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Ueca：Found it; Echeveria pellucida.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwoods are among the most beautiful trees found in American landscapes, but not all types are suitable for the garden. Find out about the different kinds of dogwood trees in this article.
Dog Tree Types
Of the 17 species of dogwood native to North America, the four most common garden types are native flowering dogwoods, Pacific dogwood, Cornelian cherry dogwood and kousa dogwoods. The latter two are introduced species that have earned a place in American gardens because they are more disease resistant than native species.
Other native species are best left in the wild because of their coarse texture or unruly habit. Let’s look at the four different types of dogwood trees best suited to cultivated landscapes.
Flowering Dogwood
Of all the varieties of dogwood, gardeners are most familiar with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). This beautiful tree is interesting all year, with pink or white flowers in late winter or early spring, followed by attractive green foliage. In late summer, the leaves turn dark red, and bright red berries appear in place of the flowers. The berries are an important food for several types of wildlife, including many species of songbirds. In the winter, the tree has an attractive silhouette with small buds at the tips of the branches. Flowering dogwoods grow to between 12 and 20 feet tall with a trunk diameter of 6 to 12 inches. They thrive in sun or shade. Those in full sun are shorter with better leaf color, especially in the fall. In the shade, they may have poor fall color, but they have a more graceful, open canopy shape.
Native to the Eastern U.S., this handsome tree thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Flowering dogwood is susceptible to anthracnose, a devastating and incurable disease that can kill the tree. In areas where anthracnose is a problem, plant kousa or Cornelian cherry dogwood instead.
Kousa Dogwood
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is very similar to the flowering dogwood. The first difference you will notice is that the leaves appear before the flowers, and the tree flowers a couple of weeks later than the flowering dogwood. The fall fruit looks like raspberries, and it’s edible if you can tolerate the mealy texture. If you’re going to plant near a patio, flowering dogwood may be a better choice because the kousa’s berries create a litter problem. It tolerates the cooler temperatures of zones 4 through 8. There are several noteworthy hybrids of C. florida and C. kousa.
Pacific Dogwood
Pacific dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) grows on the West Coast in a band between San Francisco and British Columbia. Unfortunately, it doesn’t thrive in the east. It’s a taller and more upright tree than the flowering dogwood. Pacific dogwood thrives in USDA zones 6b through 9a.
Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a European species that thrives in zones 5 through 8, although it looks ragged by the end of the season in areas with hot summers. You can grow it as a small tree or a tall, multi-stemmed shrub. It reaches heights of 15 to 20 feet. It blooms in late winter or very early spring, with the yellow blossoms making their appearance before early spring-bloomers such as forsythia. You can use the cherry-like fruit in preserves.
Dog Tree Types
Of the 17 species of dogwood native to North America, the four most common garden types are native flowering dogwoods, Pacific dogwood, Cornelian cherry dogwood and kousa dogwoods. The latter two are introduced species that have earned a place in American gardens because they are more disease resistant than native species.
Other native species are best left in the wild because of their coarse texture or unruly habit. Let’s look at the four different types of dogwood trees best suited to cultivated landscapes.
Flowering Dogwood
Of all the varieties of dogwood, gardeners are most familiar with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). This beautiful tree is interesting all year, with pink or white flowers in late winter or early spring, followed by attractive green foliage. In late summer, the leaves turn dark red, and bright red berries appear in place of the flowers. The berries are an important food for several types of wildlife, including many species of songbirds. In the winter, the tree has an attractive silhouette with small buds at the tips of the branches. Flowering dogwoods grow to between 12 and 20 feet tall with a trunk diameter of 6 to 12 inches. They thrive in sun or shade. Those in full sun are shorter with better leaf color, especially in the fall. In the shade, they may have poor fall color, but they have a more graceful, open canopy shape.
Native to the Eastern U.S., this handsome tree thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Flowering dogwood is susceptible to anthracnose, a devastating and incurable disease that can kill the tree. In areas where anthracnose is a problem, plant kousa or Cornelian cherry dogwood instead.
Kousa Dogwood
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is very similar to the flowering dogwood. The first difference you will notice is that the leaves appear before the flowers, and the tree flowers a couple of weeks later than the flowering dogwood. The fall fruit looks like raspberries, and it’s edible if you can tolerate the mealy texture. If you’re going to plant near a patio, flowering dogwood may be a better choice because the kousa’s berries create a litter problem. It tolerates the cooler temperatures of zones 4 through 8. There are several noteworthy hybrids of C. florida and C. kousa.
Pacific Dogwood
Pacific dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) grows on the West Coast in a band between San Francisco and British Columbia. Unfortunately, it doesn’t thrive in the east. It’s a taller and more upright tree than the flowering dogwood. Pacific dogwood thrives in USDA zones 6b through 9a.
Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a European species that thrives in zones 5 through 8, although it looks ragged by the end of the season in areas with hot summers. You can grow it as a small tree or a tall, multi-stemmed shrub. It reaches heights of 15 to 20 feet. It blooms in late winter or very early spring, with the yellow blossoms making their appearance before early spring-bloomers such as forsythia. You can use the cherry-like fruit in preserves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwoods are native ornamental trees. Most flower and fruit, and have dazzling fall displays as the leaves change color. Peeling bark on dogwoods may be the result of serious disease or it could be a natural condition in some species. Knowing the species of your tree is crucial to deciding if a dogwood with peeling bark is in danger or if it is a normal occurrence. Dogwood is both a native and introduced species across North America, especially the cooler climates. The plants may be trees or shrubs in form, but all of them offer extraordinary color and many of them flower.
Many of the varieties are deciduous and provide a rich fall color display followed by bright green, yellow, coral and orange revealed stems. They are quite winter hardy but are sensitive to mechanical injury and a variety of pests and diseases. For this reason, the tree bark flaking on dogwood trees may be the result of a canker, borer, string trimmer or fungal disease, to name but a few.
When a Dogwood with Peeling Bark is Normal
The Kousa dogwood is an ornamental tree that is more cold tolerant than flowering dogwood. It has bark which peels off in irregular patches, revealing a mosaic of mottled colors underneath. The dogwood bark peeling off is part of this tree’s appeal, along with its winter interest and fall display of purple leaves. Other times that peeling bark on dogwoods may be normal is when it occurs due to wild herbivores rubbing their antlers or standing on the trunk. Small rodents may also chew on trunks and cause sloughing bark. None of these conditions are good for the tree but would be categorized as wildlife problems and completely normal in certain regions. Sunscald on young trees may also result in peeling bark. It is a good idea to site them where winter sun won’t be aggressive or paint the trunk with latex paint thinned with water. Drought conditions can cause cracked bark near the base. This condition is easily corrected by giving the plant supplemental moisture.
Dogwood Tree Bark is Peeling Due to Disease
Dogwood anthracnose is a common disease in the Cornus genus. It causes yellow leaves and twig dieback, as well as sunken discolored areas of tissue. These are common symptoms of branch and crown canker as well. Basal trunk canker will cause splitting and some loss of bark. It also presents with lesions in the tree that weep sap and can seriously affect the health of the tree. It is best to consult an arborist for either of these diseases which cause peeling bark on dogwoods.
Pests that Cause Tree Bark Flaking on Dogwood
Dogwood bark peeling off may be the result of tiny insects that do more harm than good. The dogwood twig borer is a nasty pest that gets into the vascular tissue of the tree and undermines the tissue. It lives in the tree’s tissue and causes bark upheaval in infested locations. These invasive creatures may be difficult to detect until widespread damage is done because they hide away from investigative eyes inside the plant. Other borers, like the apple tree borer, also appear to favor Cornus trees and cause similar damage.
Scale insects in high concentration may make it appear that the dogwood bark is peeling. This is because when they mass on a stem, they seem like hard-bodied scabs which can be easily flicked off with a fingernail. They have the appearance of damaged bark but are actually insects subject to pesticides and manual removal.
Many of the varieties are deciduous and provide a rich fall color display followed by bright green, yellow, coral and orange revealed stems. They are quite winter hardy but are sensitive to mechanical injury and a variety of pests and diseases. For this reason, the tree bark flaking on dogwood trees may be the result of a canker, borer, string trimmer or fungal disease, to name but a few.
When a Dogwood with Peeling Bark is Normal
The Kousa dogwood is an ornamental tree that is more cold tolerant than flowering dogwood. It has bark which peels off in irregular patches, revealing a mosaic of mottled colors underneath. The dogwood bark peeling off is part of this tree’s appeal, along with its winter interest and fall display of purple leaves. Other times that peeling bark on dogwoods may be normal is when it occurs due to wild herbivores rubbing their antlers or standing on the trunk. Small rodents may also chew on trunks and cause sloughing bark. None of these conditions are good for the tree but would be categorized as wildlife problems and completely normal in certain regions. Sunscald on young trees may also result in peeling bark. It is a good idea to site them where winter sun won’t be aggressive or paint the trunk with latex paint thinned with water. Drought conditions can cause cracked bark near the base. This condition is easily corrected by giving the plant supplemental moisture.
Dogwood Tree Bark is Peeling Due to Disease
Dogwood anthracnose is a common disease in the Cornus genus. It causes yellow leaves and twig dieback, as well as sunken discolored areas of tissue. These are common symptoms of branch and crown canker as well. Basal trunk canker will cause splitting and some loss of bark. It also presents with lesions in the tree that weep sap and can seriously affect the health of the tree. It is best to consult an arborist for either of these diseases which cause peeling bark on dogwoods.
Pests that Cause Tree Bark Flaking on Dogwood
Dogwood bark peeling off may be the result of tiny insects that do more harm than good. The dogwood twig borer is a nasty pest that gets into the vascular tissue of the tree and undermines the tissue. It lives in the tree’s tissue and causes bark upheaval in infested locations. These invasive creatures may be difficult to detect until widespread damage is done because they hide away from investigative eyes inside the plant. Other borers, like the apple tree borer, also appear to favor Cornus trees and cause similar damage.
Scale insects in high concentration may make it appear that the dogwood bark is peeling. This is because when they mass on a stem, they seem like hard-bodied scabs which can be easily flicked off with a fingernail. They have the appearance of damaged bark but are actually insects subject to pesticides and manual removal.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The Emerald ash tree borer (EAB) is an invasive, non native insect discovered in the U.S. during the last decade. Ash borer damage is significant in all species of North American ash trees that become infected. Susceptible trees include white, green and black ash. Know where your ash trees are located and scout for the pest in June and July as the first step to prevent ash borer from causing serious or deadly damage.
Emerald Ash Borer Characteristics
The emerald ash borer is so named for its emerald green color. The insect is about ½ inch long and leaves D-shaped holes when exiting the ash trees interior. The pest lays eggs and leaves the larvae to hatch inside valuable ash trees, where they create serpentine tunnels that interfere with the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients throughout its tissues. Learning how to protect ash trees from ash borer can save your trees.
How To Protect Ash Trees From Ash Borer
Controlling the spread of emerald ash borer begins with keeping ash trees healthy and unstressed. The insect is usually spread through human activities, such as moving infested firewood. Prevent ash borer by inspecting firewood closely before purchasing and buy locally when possible. Do not transport firewood if you live in an area that has an ash borer population. Identifying ash trees is another step to lessen ash borer damage. Insecticidal treatments may slow damage to trees that are valued for shade or historic purposes. Ash tree borer treatment should be applied in May before adult insects emerge.
Ash tree borer treatment is not needed until the emerald ash borer is spotted within a 15 mile radius, unless symptoms are visible on your ash trees. Symptoms include canopy dieback, D-shaped exit holes and bark splitting on your ash trees. If you see what appears to be ash tree borer damage, you may contact a certified arborist about how to protect ash trees from ash borer and what ash tree borer treatment works best in your situation. The tree professional may do systemic injections to kill larvae already inside the tree. Visible emerald ash borer characteristics and damage may be lessened with soil treatments and bark and foliage sprays.
For the homeowner who spots ash borer damage and wishes to do their own ash tree borer treatment, a soil application of imidacloprid can be applied, (such as Bayer Advanced). Most chemicals to control ash borer damage require a pesticide applicator license for purchase.
Emerald Ash Borer Characteristics
The emerald ash borer is so named for its emerald green color. The insect is about ½ inch long and leaves D-shaped holes when exiting the ash trees interior. The pest lays eggs and leaves the larvae to hatch inside valuable ash trees, where they create serpentine tunnels that interfere with the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients throughout its tissues. Learning how to protect ash trees from ash borer can save your trees.
How To Protect Ash Trees From Ash Borer
Controlling the spread of emerald ash borer begins with keeping ash trees healthy and unstressed. The insect is usually spread through human activities, such as moving infested firewood. Prevent ash borer by inspecting firewood closely before purchasing and buy locally when possible. Do not transport firewood if you live in an area that has an ash borer population. Identifying ash trees is another step to lessen ash borer damage. Insecticidal treatments may slow damage to trees that are valued for shade or historic purposes. Ash tree borer treatment should be applied in May before adult insects emerge.
Ash tree borer treatment is not needed until the emerald ash borer is spotted within a 15 mile radius, unless symptoms are visible on your ash trees. Symptoms include canopy dieback, D-shaped exit holes and bark splitting on your ash trees. If you see what appears to be ash tree borer damage, you may contact a certified arborist about how to protect ash trees from ash borer and what ash tree borer treatment works best in your situation. The tree professional may do systemic injections to kill larvae already inside the tree. Visible emerald ash borer characteristics and damage may be lessened with soil treatments and bark and foliage sprays.
For the homeowner who spots ash borer damage and wishes to do their own ash tree borer treatment, a soil application of imidacloprid can be applied, (such as Bayer Advanced). Most chemicals to control ash borer damage require a pesticide applicator license for purchase.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Most cultivated rose varieties (Rosa spp.) are hybrids, rather than the natural "species" roses found growing in the wild. These wild rose species tend to grow vigorously, and require regular pruning to keep them in check. The best time for pruning wild roses is after they bloom. Wear gloves when pruning, because wild roses typically have many thorns.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Snow in summer is a lovely plant with grayish green leaves and bright white flowers in June. It spreads beautifully and is useful in rock gardens where it can cascade down amongst other creeping species. A non-flowering snow in summer plant might seem a mystery, but these short lived plants need dividing annually and well-draining soil to perform properly. If you have no flowers on snow in summer plant, you might just need to fertilize or consider a site change to optimize the plant’s lighting and soil needs.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Saxifraga is a genus of plants found almost everywhere on earth. Typically, the plants form mounds or creeping mats and produce tiny flowers. There are approximately 480 species of the plant, and plant enthusiasts and breeders are introducing more each year. A very common and easy-to-grow variety is rockfoil. Information on how to grow rockfoil plants will allow you an easy entry into this diverse and attractive group of plants.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Wood fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) is found within the largest genus of fernswith more than 200 species at home in damp, wooded areas of the Northern Hemisphere. Read on to learn more about adding these fantastic fern plants to the garden.
Wood Fern Information
With their upright foliage and interesting color, wood fern plants are highly ornamental additions to the garden. Some varieties emerge reddish or coppery pink in spring, maturing to a bright, shiny green as the season progresses. Others are an attractive, bluish-green. Although many wood ferns are evergreen, some are deciduous, dying down in winter and springing back to life in spring. Wood ferns grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, although some may tolerate chilly winters as far north as zone 3.
Wood Fern Growing Conditions
Wood fern plants thrive in moist, rich, well-drained soil. Like most woodland garden plants, they prefer slightly acidic conditions. Planting wood ferns in soil enriched with leaf mold, compost or peat moss will help create good wood fern growing conditions. Wood fern plants require shade or semi-shade. Like most ferns, wood fern won’t perform well in intense sunlight, dry soil or extreme temperatures.
Wood Fern Care
Wood fern care is uninvolved and, once established, these relatively slow-growing plants need very little attention. Basically, just provide enough water to keep the soil from becoming totally dry. Many wood fern varieties tolerate wet conditions and will even grow along a stream or pond. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute requirement, wood ferns appreciate a light dose of slow-release fertilizer shortly after new growth appears in spring.
Wood fern plants appreciate a layer of mulch or compost to keep the soil moist and cool during spring and summer. A fresh layer in winter protects the roots from potential damage caused by freezing and thawing in chilly climates. Insects and disease aren’t common problems for wood fern, and the plant tends to be relatively resistant to damage by rabbitsor deer.
Wood Fern Information
With their upright foliage and interesting color, wood fern plants are highly ornamental additions to the garden. Some varieties emerge reddish or coppery pink in spring, maturing to a bright, shiny green as the season progresses. Others are an attractive, bluish-green. Although many wood ferns are evergreen, some are deciduous, dying down in winter and springing back to life in spring. Wood ferns grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, although some may tolerate chilly winters as far north as zone 3.
Wood Fern Growing Conditions
Wood fern plants thrive in moist, rich, well-drained soil. Like most woodland garden plants, they prefer slightly acidic conditions. Planting wood ferns in soil enriched with leaf mold, compost or peat moss will help create good wood fern growing conditions. Wood fern plants require shade or semi-shade. Like most ferns, wood fern won’t perform well in intense sunlight, dry soil or extreme temperatures.
Wood Fern Care
Wood fern care is uninvolved and, once established, these relatively slow-growing plants need very little attention. Basically, just provide enough water to keep the soil from becoming totally dry. Many wood fern varieties tolerate wet conditions and will even grow along a stream or pond. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute requirement, wood ferns appreciate a light dose of slow-release fertilizer shortly after new growth appears in spring.
Wood fern plants appreciate a layer of mulch or compost to keep the soil moist and cool during spring and summer. A fresh layer in winter protects the roots from potential damage caused by freezing and thawing in chilly climates. Insects and disease aren’t common problems for wood fern, and the plant tends to be relatively resistant to damage by rabbitsor deer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Nature has surprises around every corner, and the vegetable fern is a perfect example of this. What is a vegetable fern? Keep reading to learn more.
What is a Vegetable Fern?
The vegetable fern plant (Diplazium esculentum) is a species found and used in East to South Asia and Oceania. It is a cold sensitive plant suitable for the warmer regions and tender to freezing temperatures. Are vegetable ferns edible? You better believe it! It is an edible plant harvested and eaten in its native regions. The young fronds are the stars on this plant, as the tender young growth is a delicious addition to stir fries and other veggie rich dishes. Harvest them in early spring and use them as you would asparagus for nutrient dense and delicious wild eats.
Ferns of some type are very common in most regions. Their preference for moist, partially shady sites indicates that ferns are forest dwellers and, indeed, this is true for most species. The vegetable fern plant is a familiar food at markets in its native countries. The plant should not be confused with other varieties of ferns, however. It’s classified as Diplazium esculentum, which is a completely different species from look-a-likes such as Ostrich ferns. The vegetable fern plant is an evergreen that thrives on poor soils where there is plentiful moisture.
Vegetable Fern Info
Deplazium esculentum is grown from rhizomes as a harvest crop. The spores also freely implant in humus rich, moist soils. Distribution is widespread and even invasive in regions where there is plentiful heat, water and light shade. The plants prefer acidic soil and thrive in hot conditions. Most of the fern’s habitat is lower story forestry but it is also found in irrigation ditches and roadside gulleys. An interesting side note of vegetable fern info is its introduction to non-indigenous regions, where it has naturalized. It is something of a pest plant in areas of Florida and humid southern states of the United States.
Diplazium Esculentum Uses
You can find bundles of the crisp, yet tender, new fronds in Asian markets. In indigenous regions, Diplazium esculentum uses include light blanching as a leafy green vegetable, addition to stir fry or part of a soup or stew. The fiddleheads are also pickled. It is widely found in the Philippines and other parts of tropical Asia, such as India and the Bengals, as part of the daily diet. The fern is high in beta carotene and also contains a percentage of Vitamin E and riboflavin. The vegetable fern plant is a harvested crop that is either blanched, boiled or stir fried and, in some cases, pickled. Often compared to the flavor of over-cooked asparagus, the young fronds are generally cooked before consumption to avoid bitterness. Sometimes the fronds are dried and then reconstituted for cooking.
In India it is an essential ingredient in jhol curry and in the Philippines it is called Paku and a dietary staple. In Japan it is used in stir fry and bears the common name kuware-shida in the marketplace. Pickled, the curled new leaves are the basis for spicy condiments.
What is a Vegetable Fern?
The vegetable fern plant (Diplazium esculentum) is a species found and used in East to South Asia and Oceania. It is a cold sensitive plant suitable for the warmer regions and tender to freezing temperatures. Are vegetable ferns edible? You better believe it! It is an edible plant harvested and eaten in its native regions. The young fronds are the stars on this plant, as the tender young growth is a delicious addition to stir fries and other veggie rich dishes. Harvest them in early spring and use them as you would asparagus for nutrient dense and delicious wild eats.
Ferns of some type are very common in most regions. Their preference for moist, partially shady sites indicates that ferns are forest dwellers and, indeed, this is true for most species. The vegetable fern plant is a familiar food at markets in its native countries. The plant should not be confused with other varieties of ferns, however. It’s classified as Diplazium esculentum, which is a completely different species from look-a-likes such as Ostrich ferns. The vegetable fern plant is an evergreen that thrives on poor soils where there is plentiful moisture.
Vegetable Fern Info
Deplazium esculentum is grown from rhizomes as a harvest crop. The spores also freely implant in humus rich, moist soils. Distribution is widespread and even invasive in regions where there is plentiful heat, water and light shade. The plants prefer acidic soil and thrive in hot conditions. Most of the fern’s habitat is lower story forestry but it is also found in irrigation ditches and roadside gulleys. An interesting side note of vegetable fern info is its introduction to non-indigenous regions, where it has naturalized. It is something of a pest plant in areas of Florida and humid southern states of the United States.
Diplazium Esculentum Uses
You can find bundles of the crisp, yet tender, new fronds in Asian markets. In indigenous regions, Diplazium esculentum uses include light blanching as a leafy green vegetable, addition to stir fry or part of a soup or stew. The fiddleheads are also pickled. It is widely found in the Philippines and other parts of tropical Asia, such as India and the Bengals, as part of the daily diet. The fern is high in beta carotene and also contains a percentage of Vitamin E and riboflavin. The vegetable fern plant is a harvested crop that is either blanched, boiled or stir fried and, in some cases, pickled. Often compared to the flavor of over-cooked asparagus, the young fronds are generally cooked before consumption to avoid bitterness. Sometimes the fronds are dried and then reconstituted for cooking.
In India it is an essential ingredient in jhol curry and in the Philippines it is called Paku and a dietary staple. In Japan it is used in stir fry and bears the common name kuware-shida in the marketplace. Pickled, the curled new leaves are the basis for spicy condiments.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There are over 100 species of sedge plants. What is sedge? These grass-like plants are drought tolerant, easy to grow and practically maintenance free. There are many types of sedge to choose from, but native sedge plants offer the opportunity to replenish and renew natural landscapes while giving the gardener a hardy plant made for the region. Whichever species you opt for, growing sedge plants in the garden brings texture and movement to any area of the landscape.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
There are over one thousand species of bamboo. Some are majestic giants soaring to over one-hundred feet in the air. Others are shrub-like, growing only three feet tall. Bamboo plants belong to the grass family. They are more closely related to turf grass than they are to a tree. Most bamboos hail from the tropics, but there are also many temperate bamboos. A few can even survive freezing mountain temperatures. While these plants are generally hardy, when bamboo leaves are yellow, this could signal an issue. Read on to learn more.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The name pondweed refers to the 80 or so species of aquatic plants belonging to the genus Potamogenton. They vary in size and appearance so much that it’s hard to describe a typical pondweed. Some are totally submerged under the water, while others are only partly submerged. The plants are an important part of the pond’s ecosystem, and they can be ornamental in the right setting. They serve as a valuable wildlife food as well as an oxygenator that helps keep the pond in balance. When out of control, however, the plants can choke the life out of a pond, and then it’s time take steps in controlling pondweed plants.
How to Control Pondweed
Before you use herbicides, there are a couple of other pondweed control methods that are worth considering. Prevention is the best method of control, so think carefully before you plant. If you decide to plant them, use containers to hold the roots rather than in the mud at the bottom of the pond. In small ponds, try getting rid of pondweeds by removing them manually. In large ponds, releasing grass carp in the pond will keep the plants under control. Grass carp feed on the tender, submerged parts of the plant. If these methods are impractical for your situation or don’t solve the problem, it’s time to consider managing pondweed in ponds using herbicide.
Where herbicides for lawns and gardens are usually chosen based on the weed you are trying to kill, herbicides for ponds are tailored to the site. Read the label carefully before you choose, paying special attention to precautions, restrictions and intended use. Use the least toxic herbicide to protect the fish and other wildlife in your pond and preserve enough plants to support them. Herbicides containing the active ingredient endothall are a good choice for controlling pondweed. Once you’ve chosen your herbicide, follow the label instructions exactly. Measure carefully and if you have to use it more than once, wait the recommended period of time before the second application. Never use an herbicide in a pond that isn’t specifically labeled for aquatic use.
How to Control Pondweed
Before you use herbicides, there are a couple of other pondweed control methods that are worth considering. Prevention is the best method of control, so think carefully before you plant. If you decide to plant them, use containers to hold the roots rather than in the mud at the bottom of the pond. In small ponds, try getting rid of pondweeds by removing them manually. In large ponds, releasing grass carp in the pond will keep the plants under control. Grass carp feed on the tender, submerged parts of the plant. If these methods are impractical for your situation or don’t solve the problem, it’s time to consider managing pondweed in ponds using herbicide.
Where herbicides for lawns and gardens are usually chosen based on the weed you are trying to kill, herbicides for ponds are tailored to the site. Read the label carefully before you choose, paying special attention to precautions, restrictions and intended use. Use the least toxic herbicide to protect the fish and other wildlife in your pond and preserve enough plants to support them. Herbicides containing the active ingredient endothall are a good choice for controlling pondweed. Once you’ve chosen your herbicide, follow the label instructions exactly. Measure carefully and if you have to use it more than once, wait the recommended period of time before the second application. Never use an herbicide in a pond that isn’t specifically labeled for aquatic use.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Submerged water plants that work in the warm liquid of a fish tank are few and far between. Some of the tropical fern species, such as Bolbitis water fern and Java fern, are commonly used as greenery in tank situations. African water fern grows from a rhizome which can easily be attached to a rock or other surface. They are easy to manage in soft water with either fertilizer or no fertilizer. Below you will find some African water fern info so you can use this lovely plant to aquascape your tanks.
What is an African Water Fern?
Fish keepers will know the Bolbitis water fern, or African fern (Bolbitis heudelotii). It is a tropical shade epiphyte found around bodies of water and boggy regions. The fern is a robust specimen and useful as a natural plant in fish tanks. It will grow on a rock or piece of wood, which helps anchor the plant to the floor of the tank or even the wall.
Bolbitis is found in fast-moving tropical waters. It is an epiphyte and anchors itself to rough rocks or pieces of wood. Also known as Congo fern, the plant is dark green with delicately cut leaves. It is slow growing, but can get tall and is most useful as a bottom plant. The rhizome should not be buried in the substrate but rather tethered to an appropriate piece of lava rock, bark or other medium. The fern can grow 6 to 8 inches wide and as tall as 16 inches. This is accomplished at a snail pace since growing African water fern leaves can take up to 2 months.
Growing African Water Ferns
In order to grow the fern in water, it must first be attached to a medium. Release the plant from its nursery pot and clean off the rhizomes. Hold the rhizomes in place on the chosen medium and wrap them onto it with fishing line. Over time the plant will self attach and you can remove the line. The fern prefers slightly acidic to soft water with gentle current and medium light, although it can adjust to brighter light levels. Keep the plant looking its best by removing dying fronds at the base of the rhizome. Propagation of Bolbitis water ferns is through rhizome division. Use a sharp, clean blade to ensure a sterile cut and then tie the new rhizome to a rock or piece of bark. The plant will eventually fill in and produce another thickly fronded fern. Use a diluted liquid fertilizer at start time that is consistent with aquatic use. The best growth is achieved by plants situated near the bubbler or current source.
African Water Fern Care
These are fairly easy plants to maintain as long as the tank and water health is good. They do not do well in brackish or salty water, and should be grown in fresh water only. If you wish to fertilize after its initial planting, use a balanced liquid fertilizer once per week and infuse the water with CO2. Fertilizer is not necessary in a low maintenance tank where fish waste will provide nutrients. Keep temperatures between 68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit/20 to 26 degrees Celsius. African water fern care is minimal and this easy-to-grow plant will decorate your natural tanks for years to come.
What is an African Water Fern?
Fish keepers will know the Bolbitis water fern, or African fern (Bolbitis heudelotii). It is a tropical shade epiphyte found around bodies of water and boggy regions. The fern is a robust specimen and useful as a natural plant in fish tanks. It will grow on a rock or piece of wood, which helps anchor the plant to the floor of the tank or even the wall.
Bolbitis is found in fast-moving tropical waters. It is an epiphyte and anchors itself to rough rocks or pieces of wood. Also known as Congo fern, the plant is dark green with delicately cut leaves. It is slow growing, but can get tall and is most useful as a bottom plant. The rhizome should not be buried in the substrate but rather tethered to an appropriate piece of lava rock, bark or other medium. The fern can grow 6 to 8 inches wide and as tall as 16 inches. This is accomplished at a snail pace since growing African water fern leaves can take up to 2 months.
Growing African Water Ferns
In order to grow the fern in water, it must first be attached to a medium. Release the plant from its nursery pot and clean off the rhizomes. Hold the rhizomes in place on the chosen medium and wrap them onto it with fishing line. Over time the plant will self attach and you can remove the line. The fern prefers slightly acidic to soft water with gentle current and medium light, although it can adjust to brighter light levels. Keep the plant looking its best by removing dying fronds at the base of the rhizome. Propagation of Bolbitis water ferns is through rhizome division. Use a sharp, clean blade to ensure a sterile cut and then tie the new rhizome to a rock or piece of bark. The plant will eventually fill in and produce another thickly fronded fern. Use a diluted liquid fertilizer at start time that is consistent with aquatic use. The best growth is achieved by plants situated near the bubbler or current source.
African Water Fern Care
These are fairly easy plants to maintain as long as the tank and water health is good. They do not do well in brackish or salty water, and should be grown in fresh water only. If you wish to fertilize after its initial planting, use a balanced liquid fertilizer once per week and infuse the water with CO2. Fertilizer is not necessary in a low maintenance tank where fish waste will provide nutrients. Keep temperatures between 68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit/20 to 26 degrees Celsius. African water fern care is minimal and this easy-to-grow plant will decorate your natural tanks for years to come.
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