文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Grape ivy, or Cissus rhombifolia, is a member of the grape family and in form resembles other ornamental vines that share the name “ivy”. Consisting of about 350 species of subtropical to tropical species, Cissus rhombifolia is one of the most tolerant of indoor growing conditions. Grape ivy growing is most suited to use as an indoor hanging plant due to its native habitat in tropical Venezuela, where one will find grape ivy growing in a cascading or trailing profusion of vines up to 10 feet long. Grape ivy in the home is tolerant of low light exposure, medium heat and low water requirements.
How to Care for Grape Ivy Houseplant
Caring for grape ivy is a lesson in less is more. These plants do not care for temperatures over 80 F. (27 C.), especially those into the 90s (32 C.). When growing grape ivy plants, maintaining temperatures between 68-82 F. (10-28 C.) is crucial in how to care for grape ivy houseplants. Temperatures over or under this range tend to repress the growth of the long runners of this beautiful hanging plant. As mentioned above, when caring for grape ivy, a low light exposure is most advantageous, although grape ivy can tolerate bright to moderate light if kept sufficiently moist. Allow soil of grape ivy to dry slightly between waterings, taking care not to over irrigate.
Soil considerations when growing grape ivy are important as the root systems require excellent aeration. A potting mixture of peat combined with particles such as bark, perlite, Styrofoam and calcined clay, is the best medium in how to care for grape ivy houseplants. This potting mixture will aid in water retention and yet, allow for excellent drainage. If utilizing an acidic peat when grape ivy growing, adjust the soil pH with an addition of dolomitic limestone (dolomite) to bring it into the range of 5.5-6.2. Grape ivy plants are lovely hanging plants with rhombus shaped leaves (whence the name harkens) with long stems that are of a reddish hue on the underside. To maintain this color and flourishing growth, caring for grape ivy requires a consistent liquid fertilizer program. However, no amount of feeding of the grape ivy houseplant will encourage significant flowering. The blooms of this plant tend to be an innocuous green similar to the leaf color, blending into the foliage and rarely found on cultivated plants.
Pruning Grape Ivy Plants
Grape ivy growing allows for easy propagation of the plant from root cuttings obtained when pinching back the plant. Pinching back or pruning grape ivy plants also produces denser, healthier foliage. Trim ¼ inch above the point of the leaf attachment and ¾ to 1 ¼ inch below the node when pruning these plants. After pruning grape ivy plants, the cutting will form a callus-like layer from whence the new roots will form. A rooting hormone may be applied to the cutting to encourage this root formation.
Grape Ivy Growing Problems
Grape ivy is susceptible to a few pests and problems such as leaf spot, mildew issues, mealybugs, spider mites, scales, and thrips. Most of these stem from the grower’s greenhouse and can be combated with an insecticide. Fungus, mildew and leaf drop may be the result of overly wet or dry conditions.
How to Care for Grape Ivy Houseplant
Caring for grape ivy is a lesson in less is more. These plants do not care for temperatures over 80 F. (27 C.), especially those into the 90s (32 C.). When growing grape ivy plants, maintaining temperatures between 68-82 F. (10-28 C.) is crucial in how to care for grape ivy houseplants. Temperatures over or under this range tend to repress the growth of the long runners of this beautiful hanging plant. As mentioned above, when caring for grape ivy, a low light exposure is most advantageous, although grape ivy can tolerate bright to moderate light if kept sufficiently moist. Allow soil of grape ivy to dry slightly between waterings, taking care not to over irrigate.
Soil considerations when growing grape ivy are important as the root systems require excellent aeration. A potting mixture of peat combined with particles such as bark, perlite, Styrofoam and calcined clay, is the best medium in how to care for grape ivy houseplants. This potting mixture will aid in water retention and yet, allow for excellent drainage. If utilizing an acidic peat when grape ivy growing, adjust the soil pH with an addition of dolomitic limestone (dolomite) to bring it into the range of 5.5-6.2. Grape ivy plants are lovely hanging plants with rhombus shaped leaves (whence the name harkens) with long stems that are of a reddish hue on the underside. To maintain this color and flourishing growth, caring for grape ivy requires a consistent liquid fertilizer program. However, no amount of feeding of the grape ivy houseplant will encourage significant flowering. The blooms of this plant tend to be an innocuous green similar to the leaf color, blending into the foliage and rarely found on cultivated plants.
Pruning Grape Ivy Plants
Grape ivy growing allows for easy propagation of the plant from root cuttings obtained when pinching back the plant. Pinching back or pruning grape ivy plants also produces denser, healthier foliage. Trim ¼ inch above the point of the leaf attachment and ¾ to 1 ¼ inch below the node when pruning these plants. After pruning grape ivy plants, the cutting will form a callus-like layer from whence the new roots will form. A rooting hormone may be applied to the cutting to encourage this root formation.
Grape Ivy Growing Problems
Grape ivy is susceptible to a few pests and problems such as leaf spot, mildew issues, mealybugs, spider mites, scales, and thrips. Most of these stem from the grower’s greenhouse and can be combated with an insecticide. Fungus, mildew and leaf drop may be the result of overly wet or dry conditions.
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求助
succulentnewbie
2017年08月12日
Can anyone help me ID the first 4? Also if someone knows what's wrong with the last two, it would help me out a lot! Last one is a crassula sub species
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fearlessgrower：i agree, flapjack needs water
meriunkat：the first one is Graptosedum Francesco Baldi
Haleyfleeanne：Last two, looks like they need water.
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
The flowers of orchids (Orchidaceae) last several weeks or several months, depending on the orchid species. Tropical orchids bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from white through reds, pinks, yellows and all mixtures between. An orchid needs treatment different than other types of houseplants, but encouraging an orchid's natural blooming tendencies is not difficult once it is on a basic care routine.
Container and Potting Medium
An orchid grows well in either a clay or plastic pot. A clay pot allows easier absorption of oxygen to the plant. The hole on the pot's bottom can be enlarged to ensure adequate drainage.Orchids do not thrive in garden soil and do not bloom well when planted in an ordinary houseplant potting medium. The thick, fleshy roots of an orchid attach themselves to tree bark in the plant's natural growing environment. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and bark rather than from soil. Use a commercially prepared orchid potting medium that contains chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic rock,charcoal, peat moss, fir bark or a combination of these to ensure healthy growth and blooming(ref.1).
Light Level
The American Orchid Society identifies lack of sufficient light as the most frequent cause of an orchid's failure to bloom. Orchid leaves are light, grassy green with yellow undertones when they receive sufficient light. Dark-green leaves indicate the plant does not receive enough light. Cymbidium (Cymbidium spp.) variety orchids, which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 10 are often grown in the dappled shade of large trees.(new ref. in comments box)
An east- or south-facing window with bright filtered light provides the optimum environment for a blooming orchid. Too much direct sunlight causes burn spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can be used to create desirable shade. Move the orchid closer to or farther from the window to manipulate the amount of light the plant receives.
Air and Water
Orchid roots must have freely circulating air with gentle flowing movement. A stagnant atmosphere discourages healthy growth and bloom development. An overhead paddle fan set on the lowest speed, an open window or a slow-moving fan across the room move air sufficiently for orchid health. A fan should be directed away from the plant.
An orchid thrives with once-a-week watering, unless it dries out sooner. A plastic pot feels lighter when its potting medium is dry than when it is wet, and a clay pot feels dry to the touch when its potting medium is dry. When watering, soak the potting medium thoroughly so water runs out the bottom of the pot. Thorough soaking flushes out salts that accumulated.
Fertilizer Schedule
Most orchid species have their bloom cycles in late winter or spring. They grow and flower for fairly long periods of time without fertilizer but produce more blooms when fertilized regularly.Use a water-soluble or granulated type commercial fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. A balanced 20-20-20 formula is recommended by the American Orchid Society(ref.3). Mix 1/4 teaspoon to one gallon of room-temperature water. Moisten the surface and roots only, not the foliage. Allow the water to run through the potting material and out the drainage hole. (see new ref. in comments section) A feeding schedule of every two weeks during active growth phases and every four weeks during rest cycles. Reduce water after spring flowering until new growth appears.
Container and Potting Medium
An orchid grows well in either a clay or plastic pot. A clay pot allows easier absorption of oxygen to the plant. The hole on the pot's bottom can be enlarged to ensure adequate drainage.Orchids do not thrive in garden soil and do not bloom well when planted in an ordinary houseplant potting medium. The thick, fleshy roots of an orchid attach themselves to tree bark in the plant's natural growing environment. The roots absorb nutrients from the air and bark rather than from soil. Use a commercially prepared orchid potting medium that contains chopped tree fern fiber, volcanic rock,charcoal, peat moss, fir bark or a combination of these to ensure healthy growth and blooming(ref.1).
Light Level
The American Orchid Society identifies lack of sufficient light as the most frequent cause of an orchid's failure to bloom. Orchid leaves are light, grassy green with yellow undertones when they receive sufficient light. Dark-green leaves indicate the plant does not receive enough light. Cymbidium (Cymbidium spp.) variety orchids, which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 10 are often grown in the dappled shade of large trees.(new ref. in comments box)
An east- or south-facing window with bright filtered light provides the optimum environment for a blooming orchid. Too much direct sunlight causes burn spots on the leaves. A sheer curtain can be used to create desirable shade. Move the orchid closer to or farther from the window to manipulate the amount of light the plant receives.
Air and Water
Orchid roots must have freely circulating air with gentle flowing movement. A stagnant atmosphere discourages healthy growth and bloom development. An overhead paddle fan set on the lowest speed, an open window or a slow-moving fan across the room move air sufficiently for orchid health. A fan should be directed away from the plant.
An orchid thrives with once-a-week watering, unless it dries out sooner. A plastic pot feels lighter when its potting medium is dry than when it is wet, and a clay pot feels dry to the touch when its potting medium is dry. When watering, soak the potting medium thoroughly so water runs out the bottom of the pot. Thorough soaking flushes out salts that accumulated.
Fertilizer Schedule
Most orchid species have their bloom cycles in late winter or spring. They grow and flower for fairly long periods of time without fertilizer but produce more blooms when fertilized regularly.Use a water-soluble or granulated type commercial fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. A balanced 20-20-20 formula is recommended by the American Orchid Society(ref.3). Mix 1/4 teaspoon to one gallon of room-temperature water. Moisten the surface and roots only, not the foliage. Allow the water to run through the potting material and out the drainage hole. (see new ref. in comments section) A feeding schedule of every two weeks during active growth phases and every four weeks during rest cycles. Reduce water after spring flowering until new growth appears.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Growing orchids indoors brings a touch of the tropics into your home. These perennial beauties crave the humidity and light of their native jungle environments, but they're far from fussy when grown inside. Species from the Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and Dendrobium genus are commonly grown as houseplants. It's smart to start with an established plant, which should be planted in a pot with drainage holes containing fir tree bark chips, sphagnum moss, tree fern fiber or other similar materials suited for tropical orchid growth. Provide them with warmth, sunlight, and a regular watering schedule to ensure these exotic flowers thrive and bloom in your home.
Increase Humidity
Place an established, potted orchid on a tray of pebbles covered to the top in water. This increases humidity for the orchid, which is necessary for successful blooming. Alternatively, keep a humidifier in the room near the orchid. Humidity should be around 50 percent for epiphytic orchids.
Provide Lots of Light
Place the orchid in a well-lit window, preferably facing east or south to let in the ideal light intensity. Watch the leaf color to determine whether your orchid is receiving too much or too little light; dark green indicates that the orchid needs more light, while yellow leaves are receiving too much sun. Orchids may be protected from intense light with a sheer curtain.
You can also grow orchids under artificial light -- specifically four fluorescent tubes that are 4 feet long and placed 6 inches apart. Set the orchids 6 to 8 inches under the tubes, and keep the tubes lit for 14 to 16 hours every day.
Keep the Temperature Comfortable
Keep the temperature range between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit for the orchid. The good news is that this is a typical room temperature comfortable for humans, so it shouldn't be hard to live with your orchid. Just make sure the orchid doesn't become overheated or chilled next to the window glass during the heat of midday or on cold nights.
Water Once a Week
Water the orchid thoroughly in tepid water once a week, preferably by the afternoon to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall in case it accidentally gets splashed. Allow the water to drain afterwards; waterlogging can kill orchids faster than a period of mild drought.
In between waterings, let the orchid's potting materials dry out until they feel almost dry to the touch. This is important for all kinds of orchids, including black orchids (Coelogyne pandurata).
Fertilize Once or Twice a Month
As a general rule, fertilize twice a month during growth periods and once a month during rest periods. Choose a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer formulated specifically for orchids, such as a 20-20-20 blend which has an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Orchids grown in bark need a higher ratio of nitrogen, such as a 30-10-10 or 15-5-5 blend. One orchid fertilizer recommends 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but always follow label directions.
Every month, water pot thoroughly to flush out any accumulated salts.
Increase Humidity
Place an established, potted orchid on a tray of pebbles covered to the top in water. This increases humidity for the orchid, which is necessary for successful blooming. Alternatively, keep a humidifier in the room near the orchid. Humidity should be around 50 percent for epiphytic orchids.
Provide Lots of Light
Place the orchid in a well-lit window, preferably facing east or south to let in the ideal light intensity. Watch the leaf color to determine whether your orchid is receiving too much or too little light; dark green indicates that the orchid needs more light, while yellow leaves are receiving too much sun. Orchids may be protected from intense light with a sheer curtain.
You can also grow orchids under artificial light -- specifically four fluorescent tubes that are 4 feet long and placed 6 inches apart. Set the orchids 6 to 8 inches under the tubes, and keep the tubes lit for 14 to 16 hours every day.
Keep the Temperature Comfortable
Keep the temperature range between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit for the orchid. The good news is that this is a typical room temperature comfortable for humans, so it shouldn't be hard to live with your orchid. Just make sure the orchid doesn't become overheated or chilled next to the window glass during the heat of midday or on cold nights.
Water Once a Week
Water the orchid thoroughly in tepid water once a week, preferably by the afternoon to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall in case it accidentally gets splashed. Allow the water to drain afterwards; waterlogging can kill orchids faster than a period of mild drought.
In between waterings, let the orchid's potting materials dry out until they feel almost dry to the touch. This is important for all kinds of orchids, including black orchids (Coelogyne pandurata).
Fertilize Once or Twice a Month
As a general rule, fertilize twice a month during growth periods and once a month during rest periods. Choose a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer formulated specifically for orchids, such as a 20-20-20 blend which has an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Orchids grown in bark need a higher ratio of nitrogen, such as a 30-10-10 or 15-5-5 blend. One orchid fertilizer recommends 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but always follow label directions.
Every month, water pot thoroughly to flush out any accumulated salts.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
The orchid family (Orchidaceae) includes approximately 600 genera and about 30,000 natural species worldwide. Orchids thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 13, depending on the species, but most houseplants are tropical orchids. These exotic-looking plants have earned a reputation as being difficult to grow, but many are surprisingly easy to care for. Lighting and watering needs vary, but most orchids require fertilizer high in both potassium and calcium. Making your own orchid fertilizer from common household items is quick and easy.
Eggshells and Chicken Bones
In two vital ways, chickens provide orchids with the nutrients they need to grow. Both eggshells and chicken bones contain high amounts of the calcium and potassium that orchids crave. Wash and dry eggshells and crush them with a mortar and pestle to create fertilizer for orchids. Dried chicken bones require the same technique, but are a little more difficult to process. Once you've created the crushed mixture, sprinkle it over the orchid's bark mixture.
Don’t Throw Out Cooking Water
The cooking water from both potatoes and rice provides valuable nutrients to orchids. While rice water provides a good source of vitamin B, potato water contains calcium and potassium. Save the water from cooking potatoes and rice and store it in the fridge. Apply the water to orchids every two weeks.
Milk, Molasses and Epsom Salt
Ordinary cow's milk provides a good source of protein for your orchids, but dilute it first -- 1 part milk to 4 parts water -- or get into the habit of rinsing out your milk carton with water and using it to water your orchids every two weeks. Molasses gives your orchids a boost of potassium. Mix a teaspoon of molasses to a quart or two of water and use it when you water your orchids. Mixing a teaspoon of Epsom salt in two quarts of water gives your orchids a boost of magnesium – but use caution not to use scented Epsom salt sold as foot wash. Look for Epsom salt in the gardening section of your home improvement center.
Oak Leaves and Teabags
Oak leaves and teabags, which are high in nitrogen can be used as natural fertilizer to boost orchid growth. Oak leaves need to be brewed -- 1 part water to 2 parts leaves -- for about two weeks in the sun to create liquid fertilizer. Water your orchids with the brewed oak-leaf tea once a month. Open teabags and sprinkle the contents on the soil of your orchid plants once a month during the growing season.
Easy Does It
Orchids are light feeders and do not require frequent fertilizer. While homemade orchid fertilizers provide them with the nutrients they need to thrive, heavy applications may harm your orchids. Try one or two remedies at a time and use the health of your orchids as your guide to fertilizer application. Signs of over-fertilization include a white crust on top of the bark, leaf tips dying and roots that turn black. Always flush your pot monthly with water to remove the build up of salt from fertilizers. Homemade fertilizers may not give your orchid all the NPK nutrients it requires for proper health. If signs of poor health occur that are not from over-fertilizing, supplement with a water-soluble 20-20-20 blend, mixed at one teaspoon per gallon of water and apply monthly.
Eggshells and Chicken Bones
In two vital ways, chickens provide orchids with the nutrients they need to grow. Both eggshells and chicken bones contain high amounts of the calcium and potassium that orchids crave. Wash and dry eggshells and crush them with a mortar and pestle to create fertilizer for orchids. Dried chicken bones require the same technique, but are a little more difficult to process. Once you've created the crushed mixture, sprinkle it over the orchid's bark mixture.
Don’t Throw Out Cooking Water
The cooking water from both potatoes and rice provides valuable nutrients to orchids. While rice water provides a good source of vitamin B, potato water contains calcium and potassium. Save the water from cooking potatoes and rice and store it in the fridge. Apply the water to orchids every two weeks.
Milk, Molasses and Epsom Salt
Ordinary cow's milk provides a good source of protein for your orchids, but dilute it first -- 1 part milk to 4 parts water -- or get into the habit of rinsing out your milk carton with water and using it to water your orchids every two weeks. Molasses gives your orchids a boost of potassium. Mix a teaspoon of molasses to a quart or two of water and use it when you water your orchids. Mixing a teaspoon of Epsom salt in two quarts of water gives your orchids a boost of magnesium – but use caution not to use scented Epsom salt sold as foot wash. Look for Epsom salt in the gardening section of your home improvement center.
Oak Leaves and Teabags
Oak leaves and teabags, which are high in nitrogen can be used as natural fertilizer to boost orchid growth. Oak leaves need to be brewed -- 1 part water to 2 parts leaves -- for about two weeks in the sun to create liquid fertilizer. Water your orchids with the brewed oak-leaf tea once a month. Open teabags and sprinkle the contents on the soil of your orchid plants once a month during the growing season.
Easy Does It
Orchids are light feeders and do not require frequent fertilizer. While homemade orchid fertilizers provide them with the nutrients they need to thrive, heavy applications may harm your orchids. Try one or two remedies at a time and use the health of your orchids as your guide to fertilizer application. Signs of over-fertilization include a white crust on top of the bark, leaf tips dying and roots that turn black. Always flush your pot monthly with water to remove the build up of salt from fertilizers. Homemade fertilizers may not give your orchid all the NPK nutrients it requires for proper health. If signs of poor health occur that are not from over-fertilizing, supplement with a water-soluble 20-20-20 blend, mixed at one teaspoon per gallon of water and apply monthly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are part of a plant group with over 30,000 species. Most orchids can rebloom several times after the blossoms dry up and die off. Some species require different care after the blooms die, but good general orchid care will help ensure your flower has the opportunity to rebloom.
Cutting
Some orchids require you to cut them to encourage reblooming. Certain species should be cut with a sterile tool just above where the stem grows out of the leaf and bulb. Other orchid species have black lines on the lower part of the stem that you should cut above. Other species do not require any cutting. Check with a greenhouse or garden store if you need help identifying your orchid's species or need specific cutting instructions. If you are concerned that your stem will get infected, you can rub a bit of cinnamon or rubbing alcohol on the freshly cut portion to keep bacteria out.
Repotting
After your orchid blooms die, you may need to repot your plant. Orchids should stay in the same potting soil for only two or three years at the most. Many orchids' roots are extremely sensitive, so use caution when repotting to avoid disturbing the roots too much. Plastic and clay pots are both suitable for orchids, but clay dries out quicker. Orchids in clay pots will require more frequent watering. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage holes to get rid of excess water. Repot your orchid in a premade orchid soil mix or make your own from osmunda fiber, soil, peat moss and shredded bark.
Watering
Overwatering your orchid can lead to root rot and quicker decay of the soil and compost. Use water the same temperature as the atmosphere around the orchid. Do not leave the soil soggy. Some orchid species require consistently moist soil, while others should be allowed to dry out completely before watering them again. Yellow or crinkled leaves are signs of overwatering, but these can take months to appear. Black or dark brown mushy roots are rotted. Remove these sections and repot your orchid.
Light and Temperature
Orchids thrive in humid environments with daytime temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the average daytime temperature will help stimulate new growth and blooms. Increase the humidity by placing your orchid pot on a tray with moist pebbles and mist your flowers with warm water each morning. Bright light will help your orchid rebloom after the blooms die. Allow your plant to get eight to ten hours of sunlight each day or use 40-watt florescent lights placed about 12 inches above the plant.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize your orchids while they are dormant. During the blooming period, use a half-strength solution of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer every two weeks. If you grow your orchids in soil with a lot of tree bark, use a half-strength mixture of 30-10-10 every two weeks since tree bark does not contain the nutrients orchids need to thrive.
Cutting
Some orchids require you to cut them to encourage reblooming. Certain species should be cut with a sterile tool just above where the stem grows out of the leaf and bulb. Other orchid species have black lines on the lower part of the stem that you should cut above. Other species do not require any cutting. Check with a greenhouse or garden store if you need help identifying your orchid's species or need specific cutting instructions. If you are concerned that your stem will get infected, you can rub a bit of cinnamon or rubbing alcohol on the freshly cut portion to keep bacteria out.
Repotting
After your orchid blooms die, you may need to repot your plant. Orchids should stay in the same potting soil for only two or three years at the most. Many orchids' roots are extremely sensitive, so use caution when repotting to avoid disturbing the roots too much. Plastic and clay pots are both suitable for orchids, but clay dries out quicker. Orchids in clay pots will require more frequent watering. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage holes to get rid of excess water. Repot your orchid in a premade orchid soil mix or make your own from osmunda fiber, soil, peat moss and shredded bark.
Watering
Overwatering your orchid can lead to root rot and quicker decay of the soil and compost. Use water the same temperature as the atmosphere around the orchid. Do not leave the soil soggy. Some orchid species require consistently moist soil, while others should be allowed to dry out completely before watering them again. Yellow or crinkled leaves are signs of overwatering, but these can take months to appear. Black or dark brown mushy roots are rotted. Remove these sections and repot your orchid.
Light and Temperature
Orchids thrive in humid environments with daytime temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the average daytime temperature will help stimulate new growth and blooms. Increase the humidity by placing your orchid pot on a tray with moist pebbles and mist your flowers with warm water each morning. Bright light will help your orchid rebloom after the blooms die. Allow your plant to get eight to ten hours of sunlight each day or use 40-watt florescent lights placed about 12 inches above the plant.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize your orchids while they are dormant. During the blooming period, use a half-strength solution of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer every two weeks. If you grow your orchids in soil with a lot of tree bark, use a half-strength mixture of 30-10-10 every two weeks since tree bark does not contain the nutrients orchids need to thrive.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are cultivated and prized by gardeners all over the world. According to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, there are between 20,000 and 30,0000 different species of orchid in the world. In the wild, orchids can be found on every continent except Antarctica, though the great majority live in tropical and subtropical forests. About three quarters of all orchid species are epiphytes, which is a term that refers to plants that live and grow upon other plants. Orchids that grow on a host tree have a special kind of symbiotic relationship with it.
Symbiosis
Symbiotic relationships between organisms can take different forms. Marietta College describes three forms. Parasitism is a relationship where one organism, the parasite, receives or takes benefits at the expense of the host organism. Mutualism is a relationship where both organisms receive a benefit from the relationship. Commensalism is a symbiotic relationship where one organism receives benefits, but the other is nether helped nor harmed. Most epiphytic orchids fall into this category.
Orchid Features
Like other plants, epiphytic orchids have leaves, stems, flowers and roots. According to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, their root systems tend to be less extensive than plants that live on the ground but are capable of fast, efficient uptake of water and nutrients. Epiphytic orchids are also capable of storing water in their stems to compensate for dry periods. They tend to grow on parts of trees that collect organic debris and water, such as on inner branches. Trees with rough barks that hold water and humus in cracks and crevices tend to support orchids better than those with smooth barks.
Nutrition
Epiphytes need nutrients in order to survive, grow and reproduce. They acquire their nutrition in different ways. Some are capable of taking in everything they need directly from the air around them. Others glean water, minerals and nitrogen from the decaying organic matter of their host tree. According to the American Journal of Botany, some species rely on other organisms growing on the tree, such as fungi, for nutritional benefits. Other sources of nutrition include waste products from insects and birds.
Negative Effects
Although the epiphyte doesn't harm the host by taking away its nutrition, there are ways that the host tree can be affected. The Brooklyn Botanic Gardens describe how the sheer weight of a mass of epiphytic growth can cause damaging branch breakage. Some host trees with rough bark may shed pieces of their bark periodically, preventing the overgrowth of orchids and other epiphytic plants. Others produce chemicals that can inhibit or discourage epiphyte growth.
Positive Effects
Epiphytes increase the amount of moisture in the air, helping to keep the tropical rainforests humid. This is important in that it helps the rainforest trees absorb nitrogen from the air. As described by the University of Missouri Extension, the uptake and utilization of nitrogen through the nitrogen cycle is essential to plant growth, function and reproduction.
Symbiosis
Symbiotic relationships between organisms can take different forms. Marietta College describes three forms. Parasitism is a relationship where one organism, the parasite, receives or takes benefits at the expense of the host organism. Mutualism is a relationship where both organisms receive a benefit from the relationship. Commensalism is a symbiotic relationship where one organism receives benefits, but the other is nether helped nor harmed. Most epiphytic orchids fall into this category.
Orchid Features
Like other plants, epiphytic orchids have leaves, stems, flowers and roots. According to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, their root systems tend to be less extensive than plants that live on the ground but are capable of fast, efficient uptake of water and nutrients. Epiphytic orchids are also capable of storing water in their stems to compensate for dry periods. They tend to grow on parts of trees that collect organic debris and water, such as on inner branches. Trees with rough barks that hold water and humus in cracks and crevices tend to support orchids better than those with smooth barks.
Nutrition
Epiphytes need nutrients in order to survive, grow and reproduce. They acquire their nutrition in different ways. Some are capable of taking in everything they need directly from the air around them. Others glean water, minerals and nitrogen from the decaying organic matter of their host tree. According to the American Journal of Botany, some species rely on other organisms growing on the tree, such as fungi, for nutritional benefits. Other sources of nutrition include waste products from insects and birds.
Negative Effects
Although the epiphyte doesn't harm the host by taking away its nutrition, there are ways that the host tree can be affected. The Brooklyn Botanic Gardens describe how the sheer weight of a mass of epiphytic growth can cause damaging branch breakage. Some host trees with rough bark may shed pieces of their bark periodically, preventing the overgrowth of orchids and other epiphytic plants. Others produce chemicals that can inhibit or discourage epiphyte growth.
Positive Effects
Epiphytes increase the amount of moisture in the air, helping to keep the tropical rainforests humid. This is important in that it helps the rainforest trees absorb nitrogen from the air. As described by the University of Missouri Extension, the uptake and utilization of nitrogen through the nitrogen cycle is essential to plant growth, function and reproduction.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Black orchids are popular in witchcraft stories, fiction, spooky legends and myths, as well as pop-culture comics characters. They are believed to be mysterious flowers, with magical powers. In reality, however, the black orchid is just another species of the exotic orchid family, considered a challenge to grow, but easy to raise and propagate. Black orchid flower arrangements are commonly used in corporate events or Gothic-themed parties, because of their mysterious and elegant color.
The black orchid has many symbolisms. Many consider black as the color of death, and attribute evil connotations to it. However, the black orchid, with its imposing color and mysterious beauty, also signifies great power and absolute authority, and commands submission. It has long been a symbol of the elite class, as in fashion history, the use of the color was restricted to certain classes because of its formality.
Species
According to Onlineflowersguide.com, black orchid has two main types: terrestrial (grows on the ground) and epiphytes (grows on trees). There are many versions of the orchid considered dark enough or nearly black, such as: Dendrobium fuliginosa (the "Black Pam), Coelogyne pandurata, Miltonioides leucomelas, Dracula vampira, Dracula roezlii, Oncidium henckenii, and a few hybrids like Paphiopedilum Maudiae Prieta Paphiopedilum Makuli ("Candor Blackheart"), Paphiopedilum Black Velvet ("Candor Neat") and Paphiopedilum Maudiae ("Florafest's Queen").
Still, the truly pure deep black orchid continues to be the Liparis nervosa, called "kokuran" (which literally means black orchid) in Japanese.
Origins
The black orchid is common in Asia, as well as Central and South America. The orchid's name is derived from the Greek word "orchis," meaning "testicle," because of the shape of its bulbous roots, making the black orchid a symbol of virility. Early Greeks believed they could control their baby's gender by consuming orchid roots. If they want to have a son, the father should eat large, new orchid tubers; if they want a daughter, it's the mother's turn to eat small tubers. Orchid collection became popular and more extensive during the 19th century.
Care & Propagation
Black orchids easily adapt to any environment, but grow best in a warm temperature (not too hot or too cold) or partial sun exposure. It blooms from July to September and can reach up to 12 inches in height. It is propagated through six methods: seeds, meristem or tissue culture, division, areal cuttings, keiki or by dyeing white orchids using black dye.
Significant Uses
The black orchid, as a symbol of absolute authority and achievement, is the perfect gift for someone who has recently assumed a high position, graduated, attained a significant goal or achievement, or a leader. Gift it to your new boss, a graduate, or your parish priest. It is an appropriate gift for both males and females. The black orchid's virility connotations also make it an excellent gift for your mate to communicate your fertility wishes as well as your confidence in his sexual power.
The black orchid has many symbolisms. Many consider black as the color of death, and attribute evil connotations to it. However, the black orchid, with its imposing color and mysterious beauty, also signifies great power and absolute authority, and commands submission. It has long been a symbol of the elite class, as in fashion history, the use of the color was restricted to certain classes because of its formality.
Species
According to Onlineflowersguide.com, black orchid has two main types: terrestrial (grows on the ground) and epiphytes (grows on trees). There are many versions of the orchid considered dark enough or nearly black, such as: Dendrobium fuliginosa (the "Black Pam), Coelogyne pandurata, Miltonioides leucomelas, Dracula vampira, Dracula roezlii, Oncidium henckenii, and a few hybrids like Paphiopedilum Maudiae Prieta Paphiopedilum Makuli ("Candor Blackheart"), Paphiopedilum Black Velvet ("Candor Neat") and Paphiopedilum Maudiae ("Florafest's Queen").
Still, the truly pure deep black orchid continues to be the Liparis nervosa, called "kokuran" (which literally means black orchid) in Japanese.
Origins
The black orchid is common in Asia, as well as Central and South America. The orchid's name is derived from the Greek word "orchis," meaning "testicle," because of the shape of its bulbous roots, making the black orchid a symbol of virility. Early Greeks believed they could control their baby's gender by consuming orchid roots. If they want to have a son, the father should eat large, new orchid tubers; if they want a daughter, it's the mother's turn to eat small tubers. Orchid collection became popular and more extensive during the 19th century.
Care & Propagation
Black orchids easily adapt to any environment, but grow best in a warm temperature (not too hot or too cold) or partial sun exposure. It blooms from July to September and can reach up to 12 inches in height. It is propagated through six methods: seeds, meristem or tissue culture, division, areal cuttings, keiki or by dyeing white orchids using black dye.
Significant Uses
The black orchid, as a symbol of absolute authority and achievement, is the perfect gift for someone who has recently assumed a high position, graduated, attained a significant goal or achievement, or a leader. Gift it to your new boss, a graduate, or your parish priest. It is an appropriate gift for both males and females. The black orchid's virility connotations also make it an excellent gift for your mate to communicate your fertility wishes as well as your confidence in his sexual power.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids have an undeserved reputation for being difficult to grow and easy to kill, which, unfortunately, causes many people to shy away from growing them in their homes. In reality, you can grow many popular orchid species, such as Cattleya, Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium, at home with simple, common-sense care. Overwatering is a common concern when growing orchids; the ice cube watering method is a simple trick that you can use to avoid over-irrigating your new houseplant.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids (Orchidaceae) first appeared on Earth about 100 million years ago and adapted over time to include both terrestrial types growing in soil and epiphytic types thriving on only air and water. Close to 25,000 naturally occurring orchid species exist on every continent, and all have their own distinctive characteristics or adaptations. Even though they have diversity among their species, orchids share common strategies that ensure their survival.
Flower Pollination
Orchids developed a variety of unusual flowers that attract the creatures that pollinate them. Some flowers resemble their pollinators, such as those of moth orchids (Phalaenopsis group), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. The wide petals at the top of those flowers are reminiscent of moth wings. The flowers of Venus' slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum group) each has a pouch-shaped petal that directs bees and birds straight to the source of pollen. Venus' slipper orchids are perennial in USDA zones 9 through 12.
Fungal Relationship
The ghost orchid (Dendrophylax lindenii), an endangered species that is hardy in only southern Florida in USDA zone 10a, is a leafless orchid that relies on a symbiotic relationship with fungi to move nutrients throughout the plant. A specific fungus lives inside this orchid's roots and also protrudes outside the roots and gathers nutrients from soil.
Multipurpose Roots
Epiphytic orchids' roots have evolved to serve multiple functions. Such an orchid's roots work as roots normally do by transferring water and nutrients to the rest of the plant, but they also anchor the air plant to a tree and perform the photosynthesis that leaves normally do on other kinds of plants. An epiphytic orchid's roots also can store water in the same way as a succulent plant's stems, allowing the orchid to exist high in a tree top to get more sunlight than plants living below.
Stem Pseudobulbs
Because epiphytic orchids live above soil level, they developed bulblike structures that perform the same work of storing water and nutrients that underground bulbs perform for other types of plants. In an epiphytic orchid, one or more sections of a stem bulge outward and become darkened areas, which are the pseudobulbs. Orchids with pseudobulbs can thrive in regions that have dry months between times of seasonal rainfalls.
Flower Pollination
Orchids developed a variety of unusual flowers that attract the creatures that pollinate them. Some flowers resemble their pollinators, such as those of moth orchids (Phalaenopsis group), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. The wide petals at the top of those flowers are reminiscent of moth wings. The flowers of Venus' slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum group) each has a pouch-shaped petal that directs bees and birds straight to the source of pollen. Venus' slipper orchids are perennial in USDA zones 9 through 12.
Fungal Relationship
The ghost orchid (Dendrophylax lindenii), an endangered species that is hardy in only southern Florida in USDA zone 10a, is a leafless orchid that relies on a symbiotic relationship with fungi to move nutrients throughout the plant. A specific fungus lives inside this orchid's roots and also protrudes outside the roots and gathers nutrients from soil.
Multipurpose Roots
Epiphytic orchids' roots have evolved to serve multiple functions. Such an orchid's roots work as roots normally do by transferring water and nutrients to the rest of the plant, but they also anchor the air plant to a tree and perform the photosynthesis that leaves normally do on other kinds of plants. An epiphytic orchid's roots also can store water in the same way as a succulent plant's stems, allowing the orchid to exist high in a tree top to get more sunlight than plants living below.
Stem Pseudobulbs
Because epiphytic orchids live above soil level, they developed bulblike structures that perform the same work of storing water and nutrients that underground bulbs perform for other types of plants. In an epiphytic orchid, one or more sections of a stem bulge outward and become darkened areas, which are the pseudobulbs. Orchids with pseudobulbs can thrive in regions that have dry months between times of seasonal rainfalls.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
With over 25,000 species of orchids, you're likely to find a type of orchid that fits your color and size preferences. Because there are so many types of orchids, including plants that bloom once a year and others that can bloom several times, it is difficult to determine exactly when orchids in general are "in season." Keep in mind that outdoor-planted orchid bloom times may vary slightly from norms, based on sunlight and your local temperature.
Facts
A winter walk through the nursery or home center might give you the impression that orchids are only in season at that time. However according to an article from Colorado State University, "with proper selection" you can have blooming orchids in your home yearlong. For example, phalaenopsis — sometimes called the moth orchid — tends to bloom only once a year, generally after two months of decreased temperatures and slightly decreased light. Extending the dormancy period of your orchid by reducing the water and light it receives may extend periods of blooming and let you stagger blooms throughout the year.
Length of Bloom
The length of bloom time for your orchid depends upon the type of orchid you have. For example, Phalaenopsis often lasts six to 12 weeks. Lady Slippers last about six weeks. Cattleya blooms often last just a few weeks. Often, the care you give the orchid and the conditions it is kept in determine how long the plant blooms.
Care
Keep your orchids blooming for as long as possible by using a blossom-booster fertilizer as soon as the flower spikes, continuing through the time that the last bud opens fully. Since orchids thrive in humid conditions, mist the stems and leaves daily or move the plant near other potted plants to give it more moisture. Position your orchid in a south-facing window where it receives adequate indirect light. Most orchids have medium green leaves when they receive proper light levels.
Considerations
When buying growing orchids at the home center or floral department, look for plants that are only partially blooming, suggests the Argus Orchids website. Partially blooming plants with about half their blooms open assure you longer-lasting bloom times in your home; heavy blooming plants are often on the downside of growth and blooming.
Facts
A winter walk through the nursery or home center might give you the impression that orchids are only in season at that time. However according to an article from Colorado State University, "with proper selection" you can have blooming orchids in your home yearlong. For example, phalaenopsis — sometimes called the moth orchid — tends to bloom only once a year, generally after two months of decreased temperatures and slightly decreased light. Extending the dormancy period of your orchid by reducing the water and light it receives may extend periods of blooming and let you stagger blooms throughout the year.
Length of Bloom
The length of bloom time for your orchid depends upon the type of orchid you have. For example, Phalaenopsis often lasts six to 12 weeks. Lady Slippers last about six weeks. Cattleya blooms often last just a few weeks. Often, the care you give the orchid and the conditions it is kept in determine how long the plant blooms.
Care
Keep your orchids blooming for as long as possible by using a blossom-booster fertilizer as soon as the flower spikes, continuing through the time that the last bud opens fully. Since orchids thrive in humid conditions, mist the stems and leaves daily or move the plant near other potted plants to give it more moisture. Position your orchid in a south-facing window where it receives adequate indirect light. Most orchids have medium green leaves when they receive proper light levels.
Considerations
When buying growing orchids at the home center or floral department, look for plants that are only partially blooming, suggests the Argus Orchids website. Partially blooming plants with about half their blooms open assure you longer-lasting bloom times in your home; heavy blooming plants are often on the downside of growth and blooming.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids bloom at various times throughout the year depending on the species and growing conditions. Cattleyas and phalaenopsis, for instance, tend to bloom in the spring while cymbidiums and oncidiums generally bloom in the winter. The flower stems will dry up and turn brown after the flowers fall, at which time they can be cut off. Where the stem or spike should be cut depends on the type, health and maturity of the orchid.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids, members of the Orchidaceae family, are prized for their attractive and exotic flowers. Considered difficult for amateurs to grow from seed, orchid species may be hardy from USDA zones 4 through 12. From hardy natives to tropical beauties, orchid seeds contain few food reserves, naturally relying on a symbiotic relationship with a fungus to provide their nutrients. Home growers imitate this relationship by sowing orchid seeds on a gelled, algae-based nutrient solution known as agar. Because the seeds and agar are generally kept in a flask, this process is called flasking. Agar or nutrient agar mixtures can be purchased. Alternatively, home growers can make an orchid-flasking, agar medium of their own.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Without seeing the foliage or the plant's growth pattern, you can often identify the type of a rose (Rosa spp.) type, if not its cultivar, by examining and smelling the cut flower. Beginning with about 150 species of the genus, their descendants now number more than 14,000 varieties. Crossbreeding has produced almost infinite combinations of flower characteristics. Therefore, any gardener should be able to select a rose to grow, regardless of his climate or favorite rose attributes.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
Rosebush
The shape and size of a rose blossom gives the first impression of the type of rose you are viewing. Since 1867, when the hybrid tea rose was introduced, these aristocratic blooms have become the rose standard. Recognizable by their conical shape and high, pointed centers, hybrid teas also feature a single flower on a long stem. Old roses, those grown before the development of the hybrid tea, tend to grow in clusters and often have a flattish, rosette flower shape. Other rose petals are cupped, either bending upward or downward. The English shrub rose "Molineux" resembles a round ball of petals. Grow it in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b to 10. Flower sizes range roughly from the climber "Mermaid's" 5-inch blooms to 7/8-inch flowers on the miniature "Popcorn." While the former thrives in USDA zones 7 to 10, the latter requires zones 5 to 9.
Color
Although pink flowers dominate the rose world, varieties now come in all colors except blue and black. Only as breeders began to develop hybrid tea roses did yellow, orange and true red flowers become available. Old roses had a limited palette of whites, pinks, purples and dark reds. Today, blendings of two or more colors are commonplace. Petals may be striped or speckled, or their top and underside may boast different colors. Plus, flower colors that change, intensifying or lightening, as the buds mature into open blossoms no longer surprise.
Fragrance
Along with the pollinators they are designed to attract, humans enjoy the variety of fragrances roses release. Common rose scents include apple, honey, clove, musk, anise, banana, orange, violet and raspberry. Considered more fragrant than modern roses, old roses carry signature scents according to their classification. Gallica roses, treasured for potpourris, have intense, spicy aromas, while damask roses sport fruity perfumes. When cultivars with unrelated fragrances are crossed, their offspring generally lack any noticeable scent. Glands on the lower petal surfaces, as well as leaf surfaces in some varieties, release fragrance, especially on warm, humid days.
Petal Count
In the beginning, most roses had single flowers, composed of five petals. Obviously, rose blossoms now usually far exceed five petals. Roses with nine to 16 petals fall into the semi-double class. Seventeen to 25 petals on a rose denotes a double flower. Full is the designation for a flower with 26 to 40 petals, and very full refers to any rose featuring over 40, up to 150, petals. Actually, these roses still only possess five true petals. The remaining petaloids are modified stamens, producers of the flower's male pollen. This means that very full rose blooms probably have few to no functional stamens, making them sterile as male parents. Since such plants seldom perpetuate themselves in nature, rosarians must cultivate them in the laboratory.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Best described as any rose not created through hybridization, wild roses are just that--wild. Out of 20,000 known species of roses, only 100 are true wild roses. Also called species roses, wild roses only bloom in the early summer. Throughout the remaining growing season, wild roses are flower free, displaying only their deep green foliage. Care of wild rose bushes is minimal, since they are cold hardy and self-sufficient.
Step 1
Plant wild roses in soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Wild rose bushes will thrive in their preferred soil pH. If you do not know the pH of your soil, test it with a soil testing kit purchased from a garden center.
Step 2
Amend the soil before planting if necessary. If the soil test reveals a pH below 6.0, mix in lime with the soil. If the pH of the soil is above 6.5, mix in peat moss. Add the required amendment according to label instructions.
Step 3
Plant the wild roses in front of a fence so that they can climb. Keep in mind that wild roses lose their leaves in the winter, but do not die down to the soil level. Therefore, plant them in an area where they will not end up accidentally mowed down come fall.
Step 4
Water the wild roses generously after planting. Use a soaker hose that will provide deep watering. Keep the soil moist around the wild roses for the first growing season, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week. Once established, the wild roses will only require watering during droughts.
Step 5
Prune dead wood from the wild roses after the winter thaw. If you live in USDA hardiness zone 6 or lower, your wild roses will probably experience some die-back on the tips of their stems. Simply cut this dead wood off with a pair of pruning shears in the spring.
Step 1
Plant wild roses in soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Wild rose bushes will thrive in their preferred soil pH. If you do not know the pH of your soil, test it with a soil testing kit purchased from a garden center.
Step 2
Amend the soil before planting if necessary. If the soil test reveals a pH below 6.0, mix in lime with the soil. If the pH of the soil is above 6.5, mix in peat moss. Add the required amendment according to label instructions.
Step 3
Plant the wild roses in front of a fence so that they can climb. Keep in mind that wild roses lose their leaves in the winter, but do not die down to the soil level. Therefore, plant them in an area where they will not end up accidentally mowed down come fall.
Step 4
Water the wild roses generously after planting. Use a soaker hose that will provide deep watering. Keep the soil moist around the wild roses for the first growing season, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week. Once established, the wild roses will only require watering during droughts.
Step 5
Prune dead wood from the wild roses after the winter thaw. If you live in USDA hardiness zone 6 or lower, your wild roses will probably experience some die-back on the tips of their stems. Simply cut this dead wood off with a pair of pruning shears in the spring.
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