文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Agaves (Agave spp.) are drought-tolerant succulents that have long, sword-shaped leaves that open in a rosette form. While some agaves feature smooth sides, many species have hardened, needle-like tips and curled, hardened teeth along the leaf edges. Agaves with sharp spines should be kept a minimum of 6 feet away from walking areas in the yard because the spines can easily puncture skin and cause serious injury. If you have small children or pets, removing the spines is the safest option. The spines won't grow back and cutting the spines won't kill the plant.
Step 1
Wear heavy protective clothing and eyewear, such as long-sleeved shirt, gloves, pants and safety glasses or goggles to prevent skin and eye contact with the agave plant spines and sap. While the sap of some agaves is consumed, some plant saps can cause irritation upon contact.
Step 2
Cut straight across the hardened leaf tips just above the point where the fleshy leaves transition to hardened spines, using a pair of bypass pruners. Cut just above the thick, fleshy portion of the leaves, but do not cut through this flesh because this can attract pests such as the agave snout weevil that lay their eggs in damaged sections of the plant. The weevil larvae burrow into the soft tissue of the plant, introducing a harmful bacteria that rots the plant cells, decomposing the plant from the inside out.
Step 3
Cut the curled, spiny teeth from the margins of the agave plant leaves, using bypass pruners or a pair of fingernail clippers. Clip off the sharp point, leaving a dull, flat surface at each spine. Do not cut into the fleshy portion of the leaf. Start from the spines closest to the leaf tip and work your way down to the base.
Step 4
Cut the straight, pointed spines from the tips and the curled spines from the leaf margins as new leaves emerge from the terminal bud in the center of the plant. The outermost leaves of an agave are the oldest leaves; new leaves grow straight up from the center and fan out into the rosette to make room for the next series of new leaves.
Step 1
Wear heavy protective clothing and eyewear, such as long-sleeved shirt, gloves, pants and safety glasses or goggles to prevent skin and eye contact with the agave plant spines and sap. While the sap of some agaves is consumed, some plant saps can cause irritation upon contact.
Step 2
Cut straight across the hardened leaf tips just above the point where the fleshy leaves transition to hardened spines, using a pair of bypass pruners. Cut just above the thick, fleshy portion of the leaves, but do not cut through this flesh because this can attract pests such as the agave snout weevil that lay their eggs in damaged sections of the plant. The weevil larvae burrow into the soft tissue of the plant, introducing a harmful bacteria that rots the plant cells, decomposing the plant from the inside out.
Step 3
Cut the curled, spiny teeth from the margins of the agave plant leaves, using bypass pruners or a pair of fingernail clippers. Clip off the sharp point, leaving a dull, flat surface at each spine. Do not cut into the fleshy portion of the leaf. Start from the spines closest to the leaf tip and work your way down to the base.
Step 4
Cut the straight, pointed spines from the tips and the curled spines from the leaf margins as new leaves emerge from the terminal bud in the center of the plant. The outermost leaves of an agave are the oldest leaves; new leaves grow straight up from the center and fan out into the rosette to make room for the next series of new leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
When you cut a tree down or pull a stump out of the ground, roots remaining the soil are often still alive and may produce new shoots. Certain trees including willows (Salix spp.), some maples (Acer spp.) and Populus species such as cottonwood tend to produce new sprouts very vigorously. Treating a stump with herbicide immediately following cutting the tree down can kill the tree's root system. Where the bulk of the stump and tree crown were pulled out or ground up and there is no cut surface remaining, you will have to address the remaining root system by treating new sprouts as they emerge.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
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求助
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月09日
I'm curious if this is an Aloe Vera or another Aloe species. It's really spiky and about 8 inches tall
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Camden Crace：It is either that or a twilight zone aloe.
Camden Crace：@Aurora I think it is an aloe haworthioides. Or haworthia leaved aloe.
Aurora：I know it's not aloe Vera but I do not know what type of aloe it is 😕
杨宝宝：讲中文
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This lovely creeping wildlflower is the only alpine clematis species to be found in Europe, the others being mainly confined to Asia.
Identification
The size and beauty of the distinctive sky-blue flowers are much more reminiscent of the exotic imported clematis plants that we buy from nurseries to plant in our gardens at home in the UK than of our native species, Clematis vitalba. (The common name of Clematis vitalba, which is Old Man's Beard, describes the fluffy seedheads which are generally better known than the insignificant white flowers that precede them.)
Distribution
Clematis alpina is found throughout Central Europe, and there is a subspecies with white flowers that is found in northern Norway, Finland and also in Poland.
Habitat
Alpine Clematis grows in rocky mountain woodlands and on the edges of pastures where it clambers over other plants, often creating magnificent cascades of flowers.
Blooming times
In its native habitats this wildflower blooms in June and July.
Identification
The size and beauty of the distinctive sky-blue flowers are much more reminiscent of the exotic imported clematis plants that we buy from nurseries to plant in our gardens at home in the UK than of our native species, Clematis vitalba. (The common name of Clematis vitalba, which is Old Man's Beard, describes the fluffy seedheads which are generally better known than the insignificant white flowers that precede them.)
Distribution
Clematis alpina is found throughout Central Europe, and there is a subspecies with white flowers that is found in northern Norway, Finland and also in Poland.
Habitat
Alpine Clematis grows in rocky mountain woodlands and on the edges of pastures where it clambers over other plants, often creating magnificent cascades of flowers.
Blooming times
In its native habitats this wildflower blooms in June and July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This is a gorgeous wildflower, and in our opinion the most beautiful of the Cistus species that can be seen in the Mediterranean region.
Identification
Sage-leaved Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is one of the commonest of several types of Cistus that occur in the Mediterranean Region. The beautiful white flowers can occur singly or in groups of up to four. Unlike other Cistus flowers the petals are relatively un-crumpled in appearance.
Distribution
Cistus salviifolius is native to Mediterranean countries including Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy. Its range extends southwards to parts of North Africa and eastwards into parts of Asia.
Habitat
This shrub often forms vast colonies and favours dry, rocky places in the maquis and barrocal.
Etymology
The specific epithet salviifolius (often mis-spelt as salvifolius) means 'with sage leaves' - a reference that the leaves are very similar in appearance to thos of the herb known as sage.
Related species
Along with other Cistus shrubs, Sage-leaved Cistus is parasitised by a strange-looking plant called Cytinus hypocistis,which appears from mid April until June growing on the roots of the bushes.
Identification
Sage-leaved Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is one of the commonest of several types of Cistus that occur in the Mediterranean Region. The beautiful white flowers can occur singly or in groups of up to four. Unlike other Cistus flowers the petals are relatively un-crumpled in appearance.
Distribution
Cistus salviifolius is native to Mediterranean countries including Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy. Its range extends southwards to parts of North Africa and eastwards into parts of Asia.
Habitat
This shrub often forms vast colonies and favours dry, rocky places in the maquis and barrocal.
Etymology
The specific epithet salviifolius (often mis-spelt as salvifolius) means 'with sage leaves' - a reference that the leaves are very similar in appearance to thos of the herb known as sage.
Related species
Along with other Cistus shrubs, Sage-leaved Cistus is parasitised by a strange-looking plant called Cytinus hypocistis,which appears from mid April until June growing on the roots of the bushes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This broomrape is localised in parts of the Mediterranean and is parasitic on woody Goosefoots of the Chenopodiaceae family.
Cistanche phelypaea is one of the approximately 150 species of the Broomrape family that occur in the Mediterranean region. It grows in lowland areas, often in damp estuary sand habitats, but it is both rare and localised.
Identification
An impressive wildflower, Cistanche phelypaea grows up to 40cm in height, but this varies depending on the habitat and position of the plant - some can be much shorter. The flowers are big and bright yellow with a five-lobed corolla, while the leaves are much smaller and scale-like in appearance.
Distribution
Cistanche phelypaea grows in Portugal, Spain, Crete, Cyprus, Turkey, and in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region.
Blooming times
Cistance phellypaea blooms in March and April.
Cistanche phelypaea is one of the approximately 150 species of the Broomrape family that occur in the Mediterranean region. It grows in lowland areas, often in damp estuary sand habitats, but it is both rare and localised.
Identification
An impressive wildflower, Cistanche phelypaea grows up to 40cm in height, but this varies depending on the habitat and position of the plant - some can be much shorter. The flowers are big and bright yellow with a five-lobed corolla, while the leaves are much smaller and scale-like in appearance.
Distribution
Cistanche phelypaea grows in Portugal, Spain, Crete, Cyprus, Turkey, and in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region.
Blooming times
Cistance phellypaea blooms in March and April.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
These aquatic plants are difficult to identify to species level because the leaf shape varies with water depth andflow rate. Some starworts are annuals and others are perennials.
Distribution
Common Water Starwort is illustrated here. In Wales, where this specimen was photographed, the River Teifi around Lampeter has several other startwort species including Callitriche hamulata, Intermediate Water Starwort.
Callitriche stagnalis is widespread also throughout the rest of Britain and Ireland and occurs as a native plant in most parts of mainland Europe and in northern Africa. In North America Common Starwort is an introduced species, first discovered in the New York area in 1861, and is now a nuisance invasive weed in parts of the USA and Canada..
Habitat and Blooming Times
Starworts of various kinds occur mainly in shallow (depth to about a metre) static and slow- to moderately-fast-flowing water.
The green flowers of Callitriche stagnalis, which are minute, appear at the bases of the leaves from May to August, and tiny, four-segmented fruits follow. It is mainly by examination of the shape of the fruits, which in the case of Common Starwort are nearly round. (Without their fruits, the various Callitriche species are very difficult to separate.)
Etymology
Callitriche, the genus name, comes from the Greek words From the Greek kalli- meaning beautiful, and -thrix which means hair. Callitriche is therefore a reference to the hair-like stems of starwort plants.
The specific epithet stagnalis is, as you might expect, a habitat reference: this species often occurs in stagnant (standing or stationary) water, although it is also probably the most common of the starworts that grow in slow-flowing streams and ditches in Britain and Ireland.
Distribution
Common Water Starwort is illustrated here. In Wales, where this specimen was photographed, the River Teifi around Lampeter has several other startwort species including Callitriche hamulata, Intermediate Water Starwort.
Callitriche stagnalis is widespread also throughout the rest of Britain and Ireland and occurs as a native plant in most parts of mainland Europe and in northern Africa. In North America Common Starwort is an introduced species, first discovered in the New York area in 1861, and is now a nuisance invasive weed in parts of the USA and Canada..
Habitat and Blooming Times
Starworts of various kinds occur mainly in shallow (depth to about a metre) static and slow- to moderately-fast-flowing water.
The green flowers of Callitriche stagnalis, which are minute, appear at the bases of the leaves from May to August, and tiny, four-segmented fruits follow. It is mainly by examination of the shape of the fruits, which in the case of Common Starwort are nearly round. (Without their fruits, the various Callitriche species are very difficult to separate.)
Etymology
Callitriche, the genus name, comes from the Greek words From the Greek kalli- meaning beautiful, and -thrix which means hair. Callitriche is therefore a reference to the hair-like stems of starwort plants.
The specific epithet stagnalis is, as you might expect, a habitat reference: this species often occurs in stagnant (standing or stationary) water, although it is also probably the most common of the starworts that grow in slow-flowing streams and ditches in Britain and Ireland.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This member of the Solanaceae (Nightshade) family has as bad a reputation as the other members of the family that occur throughout Europe - although one alien species, Thorn Apple Datura stramonium, is naturalised in Europe, having been imported with fertilisers from South America.
Identification
Atropa belladonna, a bushy perennial plant, growto a height of two metres and occasionally more. The pale green oval leaves are pointed and strongly ribbed, and the bell-like purple-brown flowers with five fused petals, 20 to 30mm long, produce shiny green berries that turn black when fully ripe.
Distribution
In Britain, Deadly NIghtshade mainly occurs in southern and eastern parts, but it is a rare find.
This plant occurs also on mainland Europe and western Asia as well as in northern Africa.
Habitat
Atropa belladonna is found mainly on lime-rich soil. Solitary specimens are occasionally found growing at the edgeof shaded areas where limestone chippings had been spread a few years earlier.
Blooming Times
In southern Britain Deadly Nightshade blooms in June, July and August.
Uses
Although Deadly Nightshade has for manyyears been used as a medicine, the glossy black berries of this plant are a potent poison. Cosmetics were once made from this plant, and some people suggest that belladonna refers to the beneficial effects of facial creams based on this plant.
Identification
Atropa belladonna, a bushy perennial plant, growto a height of two metres and occasionally more. The pale green oval leaves are pointed and strongly ribbed, and the bell-like purple-brown flowers with five fused petals, 20 to 30mm long, produce shiny green berries that turn black when fully ripe.
Distribution
In Britain, Deadly NIghtshade mainly occurs in southern and eastern parts, but it is a rare find.
This plant occurs also on mainland Europe and western Asia as well as in northern Africa.
Habitat
Atropa belladonna is found mainly on lime-rich soil. Solitary specimens are occasionally found growing at the edgeof shaded areas where limestone chippings had been spread a few years earlier.
Blooming Times
In southern Britain Deadly Nightshade blooms in June, July and August.
Uses
Although Deadly Nightshade has for manyyears been used as a medicine, the glossy black berries of this plant are a potent poison. Cosmetics were once made from this plant, and some people suggest that belladonna refers to the beneficial effects of facial creams based on this plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The look of a cactus can be quite deceiving. Spiny, leafless desert cacti, mostly native to North and South America, transform into some of the most dazzling plants when in bloom. Belonging to the Cactaceae plant family, more than 1,000 different species of cacti exist, including those of the tropical variety that are indigenous to Brazil.
Desert Cultivars
Following a period of about five years, bright yellow blossoms with red throats -- the flowers' tubular organs -- appear on small sea urchin cacti (A. asterias). Compass barrel cacti (F. cylindraceus) boast bell-shaped, orange and yellow flowers. Buds on the Claret Cup Hedgehog (E. triglochidiatus) burst open into vivid scarlet hues. The Rose Pincushion cactus (M. zeilmanniana) produces reddish-violet blossoms and, on the small, Snowball Pincushion variety (M. candida), rings of cream-colored flowers turn to pink.
Tropical Holiday Cacti
Christmas cacti bloom on the stem tips.
Blooming in white and a multitude of colors including red, lavender, orange, pink and yellow, Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti (S. truncata and S. bridgesii), as well as the Easter cactus (R. gaertneri), create showy holiday displays. These tropical cacti bloom in abundance and sport wide, flat, leaf-like stems. Thanksgiving cacti flower through the holiday and well into January. Christmas cactus blossoms open on the stem tips and bloom for long periods in cooler temperatures. Blooming mainly in spring, Easter cacti may flower at other times during the year.
Night-blooming Cacti
Cactus flowers grow from the area of the plant known as the cephalium. Column cacti (C. uruguayanus) bloom at night in white with petal tips of diverse colors. The night-flowering orchid cactus of the Epiphyllum species produces blossoms in multiple hues during late summer and early autumn. The sweetly scented flowers of the orchid cactus can reach a length of 6 inches or more.
Pollination
In daytime, brightly colored cactus blossoms attract bees and hummingbirds.
The brilliant hues of cactus blossoms attract daytime pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds. Dim light reflecting from the soft colors of night-blooming cacti, along with the plants' heady scent, draw moths and bats for pollination. In southwestern North America's Sonoran Desert, the fragrant blossoms of saguaro (C. gigantea) and organ pipe cacti (S. thurberi) lure bats to their sweet nectar. The bats emerge from their nectar feast covered in pollen, contributing to the pollination process as they fly from flower to flower.
Desert Cultivars
Following a period of about five years, bright yellow blossoms with red throats -- the flowers' tubular organs -- appear on small sea urchin cacti (A. asterias). Compass barrel cacti (F. cylindraceus) boast bell-shaped, orange and yellow flowers. Buds on the Claret Cup Hedgehog (E. triglochidiatus) burst open into vivid scarlet hues. The Rose Pincushion cactus (M. zeilmanniana) produces reddish-violet blossoms and, on the small, Snowball Pincushion variety (M. candida), rings of cream-colored flowers turn to pink.
Tropical Holiday Cacti
Christmas cacti bloom on the stem tips.
Blooming in white and a multitude of colors including red, lavender, orange, pink and yellow, Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti (S. truncata and S. bridgesii), as well as the Easter cactus (R. gaertneri), create showy holiday displays. These tropical cacti bloom in abundance and sport wide, flat, leaf-like stems. Thanksgiving cacti flower through the holiday and well into January. Christmas cactus blossoms open on the stem tips and bloom for long periods in cooler temperatures. Blooming mainly in spring, Easter cacti may flower at other times during the year.
Night-blooming Cacti
Cactus flowers grow from the area of the plant known as the cephalium. Column cacti (C. uruguayanus) bloom at night in white with petal tips of diverse colors. The night-flowering orchid cactus of the Epiphyllum species produces blossoms in multiple hues during late summer and early autumn. The sweetly scented flowers of the orchid cactus can reach a length of 6 inches or more.
Pollination
In daytime, brightly colored cactus blossoms attract bees and hummingbirds.
The brilliant hues of cactus blossoms attract daytime pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds. Dim light reflecting from the soft colors of night-blooming cacti, along with the plants' heady scent, draw moths and bats for pollination. In southwestern North America's Sonoran Desert, the fragrant blossoms of saguaro (C. gigantea) and organ pipe cacti (S. thurberi) lure bats to their sweet nectar. The bats emerge from their nectar feast covered in pollen, contributing to the pollination process as they fly from flower to flower.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti can take on a yellowish color when exposed to too much light. While numerous species of cacti thrive in light, intense light can cause major health problems. It is important when growing cacti to be able to diagnose the signs of too much light exposure to provide the best growing environment for your cacti.
Too Much Light
The amount of light your cactus needs depends on the species. However, you can judge how much light your cactus needs by monitoring it for discoloration. Cacti that turn yellow, orange or take on a bleached-out appearance have been exposed to too much light. A healthy cactus will maintain its color. If a cactus is moved from moderate light to intense light, it may get scorched by the sun. A scorched cactus produces a discolored ring around the top, which will not go away.
Location
Cacti need full sunlight to grow. Full sunlight is characterized as a location that receives six to eight hours of sun a day. Typically, areas in the southern part of the yard will receive enough light to support a cactus. If you are bringing your cactus outside from overwintering indoors, place the cactus in a low light area for a few days. Gradually, increase the light every few days for your cactus. Cacti that discolor should be moved to a lower light area.
Indoor Cacti
Sticking a cactus in your window can cause yellow discoloration. Windows, especially if they are south facing, may cast too much direct light on the cactus. Place a sheer curtain over the window. Monitor the cactus for any discoloration. You can also move the cactus further away from the window if it looks stressed. Gardeners may find that placing a cactus inside the home involves trial and error, as cacti species differ in the amount of sun they need.
To Little Light
When choosing the best area for your cactus, it is important to recognize signs that your cactus isn't receiving enough light. Cacti that grow towards light sources need to be moved closer to the light. If the stem of your cactus is actually reaching out for the window, gradually bring the cactus closer. To restore the shape of the cactus, rotate the plant every week so that it receives light from all sides of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Schlumbergera, commonly referred to as Christmas cactus, derives its common name from its winter bloom period. Each of the six Christmas cactus species produces a different colored bloom, with red being the most common. As with all cacti and succulents, the Christmas cactus is susceptible to disease. Fungal leaf spots, sooty mold, botrytis and basal stem rot are common diseases associated with this plant. The effects of pests are often mistaken for disease, but pests can often be eradicated. In some cases a diseased plant can be treated. In others, the plant cannot be salvaged.
Fungal Leaf Spots
Step 1
Cut away any infected leaves with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, the infected leaves cannot be rejuvenated. Fungal leaf spots are typically circular or elliptical in shape and develop along the leaves of the plant. The spots are typically black or gray in color.
Step 2
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area.
Step 3
Water the plant at the ground level and only after the soil is allowed to dry completely. Fungal leaf spots develop from water that rests on the leaves and stems for long periods. It is for this reason that you should avoid pouring water directly over Christmas cactus, particularly if the plant is exposed to shade for long periods of time.
Sooty Mold and Botrytis
Step 4
Remove as much soil from the roots as you reasonably can without damaging the root system.
Step 5
Repot the plant with new soil specifically formulated for cactus and succulents.
Step 6
Treat the blackened areas with a systemic fungicide if treating sooty mold and with methylated spirits if treating botrytis.
Step 7
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area if treating botrytis.
Step 8
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.
Basal Stem Rot
Step 9
Cut away any leaves not yet infected with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, a Christmas cactus suffering from basal stem rot cannot be rejuvenated, but healthy leaves can be repotted.
Step 10
Plant the healthy leaves in new soil specifically formulated for cacti and succulents.
Step 11
Apply copper sulfate to the healthy cuttings to guard against basal stem rot.
Pests
Step 12
Identify the type of pest attacking the plant. Mealybugs are identified by their white woolly nests and waxy appearance. The bugs are very small and a gray-white color. Spider mites are red in color and feed on the leaves of the plant. They are very hard to see without a magnifying glass. Look for spider webs with small dots. The dots are the spider mites. Whiteflies closely resemble mealybugs, but do not build nests. Whiteflies excrete honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
Step 13
Move the plant to an area where temperatures exceed 70 degrees F for all pest types. It may be necessary to invest in a small greenhouse if temperatures in direct sunlight do not reach at least 70 degrees. Moving the plant to a warmer environment should eliminate the spider mites.
Step 14
Spray the plant with soapy contact insecticide if treating a plant with mealybugs.
Step 15
Increase the humidity level if the spider mite infestation is extensive and they survive the warmer temperature.
Step 16
Spray whiteflies with an insecticidal spray.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactuses have a reputation for growing slowly, but among the 2,000-plus species is a wide variety of sizes and growth rates. Some never grow higher than a few inches while others may reach heights of 30 feet or higher. All cactus species grow fastest if they receive bright light and the correct amount of water and fertilizer. Making your cactus grow faster is a question of providing its ideal growing conditions during the warmer months of the year.
Step 1
Re-pot your cactus in a ceramic pot slightly larger than its current container. Use gloves to prevent the spines from piercing the skin and also to prevent damage to the cactus. Plant it in compost formulated for succulents or a mixture of equal parts of potting soil and coarse sand. Re-plant your cactus at exactly the same level that it sat in its original pot.
Step 2
Place your cactus on a bright, south-facing window sill or the sunniest spot in your home. Rotate the pot once a week to make sure growth is even. Aim to keep your cactus in an environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer and 45 to 55 degrees during the winter.
Step 3
Water during the warmer months of the year, when the top inch of the soil is completely dry. Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the compost and allow all excess liquid to drain away. During the winter, water only when the soil is completely dry or when your cactus starts to shrivel. Even then, provide only enough water to slightly moisten the soil.
Step 4
Fertilize your cactus once a month during the warmer months of the year with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulated for succulents. Do not fertilize during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Variously called "Ruby Ball," "Red Cap Cactus," "Moon Cactus" or "Hibotan" (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii "Rubra" graft), this brightly colored plant results from grafting two different species of cactus together. The top part, the scion, can't live on its own, since it lacks chlorophyll, and it is essentially a parasite on the bottom rootstock plant. To grow the plant successfully you need to consider the growing requirements of both the scion and the rootstock.
History
The red mutation of the plaid cactus (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii) originated in Japan when a nurseryman noticed two completely red seedling plants among thousands of tiny seedlings. They were immediately grafted onto rootstock, since they wouldn't have lived long on their own without chlorophyll. From these two plants have come the millions of ruby ball cactus grown around the world as a houseplant. The bottom rootstock plant is usually night-blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans).
Light
The plaid cactus scion can't tolerate bright sunlight, since it doesn't have the shielding that chlorophyll offers. In addition, the parent species grows as a small cactus beneath sheltering shrubs in deserts of Paraguay and prefers shaded conditions. The night-blooming cereus rootstock also prefers shade, since it is a tropical cactus that grows beneath jungle trees. Blue myrtle cactus grows in direct sunlight but tolerates shaded conditions. For the sake of the scion, even when grown on sun-tolerant rootstock the plant needs bright indirect light.
Watering and Soil
Both rootstocks are vigorous growers, but night-blooming cereus grows fastest, growing more than 40 feet on its own.This rootstock will need more watering than blue myrtle. Grow ruby ball grafts in well-draining cactus mix. Overwatering is more likely for the slower-growing more drought-tolerant blue myrtle. For both rootstocks, watch the top inch of soil. When it is dry, water the plant until water comes through the pot's drainage holes. The time interval varies, depending on the ambient temperatures, the soil mixture and how fast the plant is growing.
Temperature
The red scion is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12. The night-blooming cereus rootstock grows in USDA zones 10 through 11. This combination leads to quick death of both scion and rootstock if exposed to temperatures near freezing. Blue myrtle cactus is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. If ruby ball grafts on blue myrtle encounter freezing temperatures, the scion dies and the rootstock survives.
Regrafting
Over time, the tissue between the grafted cacti becomes corky and less viable. Growth of the scion slows or halts, with the scion eventually dying. You can prolong its life by regrafting it. Using a sharp knife sterilized with alcohol, cut the top off a seedling columnar cactus and cut the scion from the old rootstock. Identify the circle of vascular tissue toward the center of the stems of the scion and new rootstock, and press the plants together so the circles partially align. Put rubber bands over the scion and the bottom of the pot the rootstock is growing in, holding them together until the tissues grow together.
Pruning
Any time you notice that the rootstock is putting out a branch of its own, immediately remove it. If allowed to develop, the rootstock will give all the food and moisture to its own branch rather than to the grafted scion, and the scion dies. If the branch is young enough, you can simply twist it off or push it off. If it is larger, use sharp clean pruning shears or a sharp clean knife to remove it. Night-blooming cereus is the shortest-lived rootstock and produces more branches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Fusarium crown rot disease is a serious problem that can affect a wide range of plant species, both annual and perennial alike. It rots the roots and crown of a plant and can lead to wilting and discoloration on the stems and leaves. There is no chemical fusarium crown rot treatment, and it can cause stunted growth and even eventual death. There are steps you can take toward fusarium crown rot control, however, that include prevention, isolation and sanitation.
Keep reading to learn more about fusarium crown rot disease and fusarium crown rot treatment. Fusarium Crown Rot Control Many of the symptoms of fusarium crown rot disease take place, unfortunately, underground. There are, however, signs that affect the above-ground part of the plant, too. The leaves may become wilted and take on a yellowed, scorched appearance.
Also brown, dead lesions or streaks may appear on the lower part of the stem. Usually, by the time fusarium is visible above ground, its spread is pretty extensive below ground. It can also be seen in bulbs that are shriveled or rotten. Never plant these bulbs – they may be harboring the fusarium fungus and planting them could introduce it to otherwise healthy soil.
Treating Fusarium Rot in Plants Once fusarium is in the soil, it can live there for years. The best way to prevent it is to keep the soil well drained and to plant cultivars that are resistant to the disease. If it has already appeared, the best method of treating fusarium rot is removing and destroying affected plants. You can sterilize soil by moistening it and laying down clear plastic sheeting. Leave the sheeting in place for four to six weeks during the summer – the intensified heat of the sun should kill the fungus living in the soil. You can also leave an infected area unplanted for four years – without plants to grow on, the fungus will eventually die.
Keep reading to learn more about fusarium crown rot disease and fusarium crown rot treatment. Fusarium Crown Rot Control Many of the symptoms of fusarium crown rot disease take place, unfortunately, underground. There are, however, signs that affect the above-ground part of the plant, too. The leaves may become wilted and take on a yellowed, scorched appearance.
Also brown, dead lesions or streaks may appear on the lower part of the stem. Usually, by the time fusarium is visible above ground, its spread is pretty extensive below ground. It can also be seen in bulbs that are shriveled or rotten. Never plant these bulbs – they may be harboring the fusarium fungus and planting them could introduce it to otherwise healthy soil.
Treating Fusarium Rot in Plants Once fusarium is in the soil, it can live there for years. The best way to prevent it is to keep the soil well drained and to plant cultivars that are resistant to the disease. If it has already appeared, the best method of treating fusarium rot is removing and destroying affected plants. You can sterilize soil by moistening it and laying down clear plastic sheeting. Leave the sheeting in place for four to six weeks during the summer – the intensified heat of the sun should kill the fungus living in the soil. You can also leave an infected area unplanted for four years – without plants to grow on, the fungus will eventually die.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Diseases in plants can be very difficult to diagnose due to the nearly infinite numbers of pathogens. Phytoplasma disease in plants are generally seen as “yellows,” a form of disease common in many plant species. What is phytoplasma disease? Well, first you need to understand the phytoplasma life cycle and how they are spread. New studies indicate that phytoplasma effects on plants can mimic damage shown by psyllid insects or leaf roll virus. Phytoplasma Life Cycle Phytoplasmas infect plants and insects. They are spread by insects through their feeding activities which inject the pathogen into the phloem of the plants. 
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
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