文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Bean plants are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They germinate quickly under the right conditions and produce flowers and fruit within 50 to 65 days, depending on the variety. If planted too early, though, beans may be slow to germinate or fail to germinate at all. Pay close attention to planting times and seed depth.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Watermelons are the dessert crop of the vegetable garden, and the sweet, refreshing fruit matures in the heat of summer, just when we need it most. A few conditions and diseases cause black spots and blotches that make the fruit inedible. Blossom end rot, which is caused by soil conditions, is easily corrected so that the gardener only loses the first ripening fruit, while bacterial and fungal diseases can destroy the entire crop.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
The thought of meaty, earthy morels gets even the most jaded mushroom hunter excited. Yet, morels can be as unpredictable as they are delicious. Conditions for morel growth need to be perfect, and they're picky about which trees they'll grow near. Different morel varieties, or morels in different regions, may prefer particular trees. Most morel trees are hardwood species, and they're frequently old, dead or dying--though this isn't always the case.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
Elm Trees
Morels are closely associated with elm trees. Elms grow in a vase-shape with more foliage on the slender upper branches. Find an elm tree that's just started to die and it can be very productive for gray and yellow morels, according to the website Northern Country Morels. Large chunks of fallen bark around the trunk base are usually a sign of a sick or dead tree, ideal for morel growth.
Apple Trees
Apple trees often grow in a twisted, gnarly formation and rarely stretch higher than 20 feet. The distinct pinkish-white blossom appears in May, with ripe apples following in early fall. All types of morel mushrooms grow around the base of apple trees. Untended orchards filled with old apple trees make fertile morel spots, according to fungi expert David Fischer at the American Mushrooms website.
Ash
The ash tree is most associated with black morels, as well as occasional blooms of yellow morel, according to Northern Country Morels. Ash tree bark is gray with deeply marked diamond shapes. Morels will happily grow near large and healthy ash trees, unlike other tree types where the morel prefers decaying individuals.
Poplar
Poplars grow tall, often to over 100 feet. Poplars attract morel mushroom growth in most locations, but in some regions they're especially productive. For example, in the Piedmont plateau region in the eastern United States, morels frequently grow near tulip poplars, according to the University of North Carolina. Live and thriving tulip poplars will often harbor nearby morels. Poplar bark is gray to brown and often ridged and knobbly.
Burnt Trees
Morels often grow in abundance in forest areas burned at some stage in the last three years, according to the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Researchers from the botany department of the University of Wisconsin Madison also noted that morels were particularly fond of growing on the sides of scars in the ground where trees has burned into the earth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月26日
You can grow your own edible mushrooms in a portable 5-gallon bucket. Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus spp.) are the best choice for bucket growing, because they are less sensitive to growing conditions and less picky about growing media than other varieties of mushrooms. You can grow the mushrooms indoors or outdoors, as long as the mushrooms have the necessary humidity levels and growing temperature.
Step 1
Drill about 10 holes, spaced approximately 6 inches apart, staggered around the center section -- the space that reaches from about 3 inches above the bottom of the bucket to about 3 inches below the top of the bucket -- of a 5-gallon plastic bucket. The mushrooms will grow out of these holes. Use a 1/2-inch drill bit. Dump the plastic shavings out of the bucket after all the holes are drilled.
Step 2
Fill the bucket about half full with moistened growing media. You can use coffee grounds, sawdust, straw or a mixture of the items to form the media.
Step 3
Open the bag of mushroom spawn. The bag is usually about the size of a loaf of bread with the spawn packed in straw or sawdust. Break off some of the spawn and mix it in with the media in the bucket. Continue adding media and mixing in spawn until you have used all the spawn and the mixture is about 1-inch from the top of the bucket.
Step 4
Cover the entire bucket loosely with a clear plastic bag. Cut 12 X-shaped holes around the top and sides of the bag to allow some air to get in. When you see fuzz start to appear, indicating the spawn is colonizing the media, remove the bag and cover the bucket with a lid or just leave the plastic bag cover over the bucket.
Step 5
Place the bucket in a humid environment at a temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Create humidity by misting the bucket daily or by setting the bucket in a tub that contains about 1 inch of water. If the bucket is covered with a bag, mist under the bag. Do not remove the lid from the bucket if you are using a lid. You are not trying to wet the growing media, you are just trying to raise the humidity around the bucket.
Step 6
Increase misting to three times a day when you see mushrooms start to appear in the bucket holes. This takes approximately three to four weeks. As the mushrooms appear, cut an "X" in the plastic bag over each hole that contains mushrooms if you covered the bucket with a bag rather than using a lid. This gives the mushrooms room to grow. Mist the mushrooms that emerge from the holes so they do not dry out. Wet the mushrooms enough that they are shiny, but not dripping or slimy.
Step 7
Break off the mushrooms when they get to the size you want. Mushrooms will continue to grow until the spawn is exhausted. If you do not see any new mushrooms for three weeks, the bucket is done producing.
Step 8
Empty the spent mushroom spawn and media and clean out the bucket to reuse it with a new batch of spawn.
Step 1
Drill about 10 holes, spaced approximately 6 inches apart, staggered around the center section -- the space that reaches from about 3 inches above the bottom of the bucket to about 3 inches below the top of the bucket -- of a 5-gallon plastic bucket. The mushrooms will grow out of these holes. Use a 1/2-inch drill bit. Dump the plastic shavings out of the bucket after all the holes are drilled.
Step 2
Fill the bucket about half full with moistened growing media. You can use coffee grounds, sawdust, straw or a mixture of the items to form the media.
Step 3
Open the bag of mushroom spawn. The bag is usually about the size of a loaf of bread with the spawn packed in straw or sawdust. Break off some of the spawn and mix it in with the media in the bucket. Continue adding media and mixing in spawn until you have used all the spawn and the mixture is about 1-inch from the top of the bucket.
Step 4
Cover the entire bucket loosely with a clear plastic bag. Cut 12 X-shaped holes around the top and sides of the bag to allow some air to get in. When you see fuzz start to appear, indicating the spawn is colonizing the media, remove the bag and cover the bucket with a lid or just leave the plastic bag cover over the bucket.
Step 5
Place the bucket in a humid environment at a temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Create humidity by misting the bucket daily or by setting the bucket in a tub that contains about 1 inch of water. If the bucket is covered with a bag, mist under the bag. Do not remove the lid from the bucket if you are using a lid. You are not trying to wet the growing media, you are just trying to raise the humidity around the bucket.
Step 6
Increase misting to three times a day when you see mushrooms start to appear in the bucket holes. This takes approximately three to four weeks. As the mushrooms appear, cut an "X" in the plastic bag over each hole that contains mushrooms if you covered the bucket with a bag rather than using a lid. This gives the mushrooms room to grow. Mist the mushrooms that emerge from the holes so they do not dry out. Wet the mushrooms enough that they are shiny, but not dripping or slimy.
Step 7
Break off the mushrooms when they get to the size you want. Mushrooms will continue to grow until the spawn is exhausted. If you do not see any new mushrooms for three weeks, the bucket is done producing.
Step 8
Empty the spent mushroom spawn and media and clean out the bucket to reuse it with a new batch of spawn.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary plants are hardy and able to withstand many adverse conditions, including freezing weather and short periods of drought. It is possible to revive dried-out rosemary plants, depending on the overall condition of the plant.
Severity
Check the ends of the branches to determine the extent of damage. If the branches are thoroughly dried out, check the base of the trunk and roots. The rosemary plant needs to be replaced if the trunk or roots are dry and brittle.
Maintenance
If the plant is salvageable, carefully remove dried and dead leaves from it. Using a pair of sharp garden shears, trim the branches to remove all dried areas, without cutting into the live branches.
Conditions
Thoroughly water the rosemary plant and provide plenty of natural light. Water outdoor plants at their base until the soil is thoroughly moist. For container-grown rosemary, fill the container with fresh water and allow the soil to absorb the water. Repeat this several times, until the soil retains the moisture.
Severity
Check the ends of the branches to determine the extent of damage. If the branches are thoroughly dried out, check the base of the trunk and roots. The rosemary plant needs to be replaced if the trunk or roots are dry and brittle.
Maintenance
If the plant is salvageable, carefully remove dried and dead leaves from it. Using a pair of sharp garden shears, trim the branches to remove all dried areas, without cutting into the live branches.
Conditions
Thoroughly water the rosemary plant and provide plenty of natural light. Water outdoor plants at their base until the soil is thoroughly moist. For container-grown rosemary, fill the container with fresh water and allow the soil to absorb the water. Repeat this several times, until the soil retains the moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
If you live in Tennessee, and would like to plant strawberries, it is important to consider your growing conditions. Strawberries require full sun and well-drained soil in order to thrive. A variety of diseases affect Tennessee strawberries--verticillium wilt, leaf spot, anthracnose, leaf scorch and leaf blight just to name a few. A few strawberry cultivars, such as Allstar and Earliglow, grow well in Tennessee and show resistance to such diseases.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Adventurous Arizona gardeners don't let the state's challenging conditions keep plump, juicy strawberries (Fragaria spp.), hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, from their planting lists. The diverse climate and soils simply mean that strawberries need some extra TLC. Growing zones in the state stretch from USDA zones 4b through 10, with average winter lows ranging from minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit to 40 F. Whatever your region, proper planting gets Arizona strawberries started right.
Site Selection
Even in Arizona's low desert, unexpected frosts can damage tender strawberry blossoms and steal spring crops. The earliest flowers produce the largest berries, so protection is important.
Plant strawberries on elevated slopes, where cold air drains away and lessens chances of frost damage. Cooler, north-facing slopes generally prompt later blooms, which gives an added buffer against bloom loss.
Strawberries fruit best in full sun locations, but low-desert berries need protection from intense sun. Locations near homes provide frost protection, but avoid west-facing walls that reflect Arizona heat.
Soil Adjustments
Strawberries prefer well-drained, low-saline, organic soil with neutral to slightly acidic pH near 6.5. Most Arizona soils are alkaline and saline, with little organic matter. Without adjustments, strawberries suffer nutrient deficiencies.
Test your soil, and follow test recommendations explicitly. Most Arizona gardens need pH lowered for strawberries, but some have acidic soil. Because Arizona soils contain calcium carbonate, common pH-lowering products, including sulfur, don't often work. Using the wrong amendments or the wrong amounts can leave soil toxic. Don't guess; test.
Layer 2 to 3 inches of organic compost over the planting bed, along with 1 pound of 12-24-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, including gloves and goggles, and mix the layers in 8 inches deep. Avoid manure-base compost, which may add salts.
Planting Time
Plant Arizona strawberries in late winter or spring, after the last average frost date for your region passes. In Arizona's low desert, this happens in February. Mountain regions wait until June.
Trim roots to about 6-inch lengths, and keep them moist at all times. Use sharp garden scissors or pruners, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after you trim.
Planting depth is critical. Bury roots, but keep the plant's crown exposed at the soil's surface. Planted too low, strawberries rot. Planted too high, crowns dry out. Space strawberry plants at 12- to 18-inch intervals, and water them thoroughly.
Initial Care
Remove all flowers the first season, so strawberries focus on roots, not fruits. When new growth begins, broadcast 1/2 pound of 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, and scratch the fertilizer in lightly; leave roots undisturbed. Water thoroughly, washing any fertilizer from leaves.
Drip irrigation suits Arizona strawberries. Overhead watering promotes disease, fuels weed growth and wastes water to evaporation. A layer of organic mulch, such as pine needles or straw, helps retain soil moisture, inhibit weeds and keep soil cool.
Strawberry roots generally stay in the soil's top 6 inches. The shallow roots need consistent moisture of at least 1 inch per week. Water every three to five days, with up to 2 inches of weekly water during hot weather.
Berry Selection
With Arizona's diversity, match berry types to elevation. Strawberries fall in three main groups: June-bearing, everbearing and day-neutral.
Runner-producing June-bearing strawberries flower and fruit early. If frost nips them, your crop is lost. They suit lower, warmer elevations with few late frosts. Cold-hardy, Minnesota-developed "Mesabi" June-bearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Mesabi," USDA zones 3 through 8) does well in high-pH Southwest soil.
Multicrowned everbearing strawberries have few runners, but produce smaller crops in spring and fall. Autumn harvest still follows if spring frost hits, but everbearers struggle in low-desert heat. Higher, cooler elevations suit them best, but offer shorter growing seasons. Vigorous "Ogalla" everbearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Ogallala," USDA zones 3 through 9) withstands arid conditions well.
Day-neutral strawberries flower and fruit all growing season, with fewer runners and smaller berries. Their flowers fail once temperatures go above 70 F. They do best in Arizona's foothills and moderate elevations. Disease-resistant "Tribute" day-neutral strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Tribute") tolerates alkaline soil and does well in short growing seasons.
Site Selection
Even in Arizona's low desert, unexpected frosts can damage tender strawberry blossoms and steal spring crops. The earliest flowers produce the largest berries, so protection is important.
Plant strawberries on elevated slopes, where cold air drains away and lessens chances of frost damage. Cooler, north-facing slopes generally prompt later blooms, which gives an added buffer against bloom loss.
Strawberries fruit best in full sun locations, but low-desert berries need protection from intense sun. Locations near homes provide frost protection, but avoid west-facing walls that reflect Arizona heat.
Soil Adjustments
Strawberries prefer well-drained, low-saline, organic soil with neutral to slightly acidic pH near 6.5. Most Arizona soils are alkaline and saline, with little organic matter. Without adjustments, strawberries suffer nutrient deficiencies.
Test your soil, and follow test recommendations explicitly. Most Arizona gardens need pH lowered for strawberries, but some have acidic soil. Because Arizona soils contain calcium carbonate, common pH-lowering products, including sulfur, don't often work. Using the wrong amendments or the wrong amounts can leave soil toxic. Don't guess; test.
Layer 2 to 3 inches of organic compost over the planting bed, along with 1 pound of 12-24-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, including gloves and goggles, and mix the layers in 8 inches deep. Avoid manure-base compost, which may add salts.
Planting Time
Plant Arizona strawberries in late winter or spring, after the last average frost date for your region passes. In Arizona's low desert, this happens in February. Mountain regions wait until June.
Trim roots to about 6-inch lengths, and keep them moist at all times. Use sharp garden scissors or pruners, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after you trim.
Planting depth is critical. Bury roots, but keep the plant's crown exposed at the soil's surface. Planted too low, strawberries rot. Planted too high, crowns dry out. Space strawberry plants at 12- to 18-inch intervals, and water them thoroughly.
Initial Care
Remove all flowers the first season, so strawberries focus on roots, not fruits. When new growth begins, broadcast 1/2 pound of 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, and scratch the fertilizer in lightly; leave roots undisturbed. Water thoroughly, washing any fertilizer from leaves.
Drip irrigation suits Arizona strawberries. Overhead watering promotes disease, fuels weed growth and wastes water to evaporation. A layer of organic mulch, such as pine needles or straw, helps retain soil moisture, inhibit weeds and keep soil cool.
Strawberry roots generally stay in the soil's top 6 inches. The shallow roots need consistent moisture of at least 1 inch per week. Water every three to five days, with up to 2 inches of weekly water during hot weather.
Berry Selection
With Arizona's diversity, match berry types to elevation. Strawberries fall in three main groups: June-bearing, everbearing and day-neutral.
Runner-producing June-bearing strawberries flower and fruit early. If frost nips them, your crop is lost. They suit lower, warmer elevations with few late frosts. Cold-hardy, Minnesota-developed "Mesabi" June-bearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Mesabi," USDA zones 3 through 8) does well in high-pH Southwest soil.
Multicrowned everbearing strawberries have few runners, but produce smaller crops in spring and fall. Autumn harvest still follows if spring frost hits, but everbearers struggle in low-desert heat. Higher, cooler elevations suit them best, but offer shorter growing seasons. Vigorous "Ogalla" everbearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Ogallala," USDA zones 3 through 9) withstands arid conditions well.
Day-neutral strawberries flower and fruit all growing season, with fewer runners and smaller berries. Their flowers fail once temperatures go above 70 F. They do best in Arizona's foothills and moderate elevations. Disease-resistant "Tribute" day-neutral strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Tribute") tolerates alkaline soil and does well in short growing seasons.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
The hot climate and alkaline soils of many parts of Texas are far from ideal for blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) growing. Knowing which kinds of blueberry bushes to plant and how to compensate for unfavorable soil conditions, however, can allow you to cultivate a berry harvest even in the Lonestar State.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are very demanding in terms of the soil conditions they require for good growth and fruit production, and those conditions don't often occur naturally in Ohio. With careful site selection and soil preparation, however, most Ohio gardeners can produce blueberry crops in their backyards.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Unlike many fruit-bearing trees growing in the United States, blueberries offer the home gardener a chance to cultivate these delectable berries in small backyards as long as the proper conditions exist.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown vegetables at home, in part because they are considered relatively low-maintenance vegetables. Still, their being low maintenance does not make them immune to damage incurred from natural conditions such as extreme temperature changes. A failure to protect your tomato plants from such conditions can result in poor-quality fruit yield come harvest time.
Tomatoes and Temperature
Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator.
Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes
To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars.
Spotting a Mealy Tomato
Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf.
Other Considerations
If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.
Tomatoes and Temperature
Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator.
Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes
To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars.
Spotting a Mealy Tomato
Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf.
Other Considerations
If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Muscadine grapes have shallow roots that feed upon nutrients within the top 12 inches of the soil. Correct application of nutrients is important. The type and schedule of fertilization depends largely upon the existing conditions of the soil and age of the muscadine grape. Before planting vegetation, perform a soil test, which will inform you of the soil pH and the nutrient status of your site.
First Year Fertilization
Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications.
Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond
Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place.
Magnesium
Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July.
Boron
Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.
First Year Fertilization
Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications.
Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond
Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place.
Magnesium
Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July.
Boron
Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Strawberries (Fragaria ananassa) are productive little plants that, given good growing conditions, will produce prolifically year after year. Although the length and severity of Michigan winters, particularly in the northern reaches of the state, can be a challenge to some fruit crops, strawberries aren't daunted by the cold. Cultivars are available that are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 11, so they can handle the climate throughout Michigan.
Recommended Varieties
June-bearing strawberry varieties produce one large crop of berries, usually in mid-June in Michigan, and they typically produce more berries per season than other types of plants. Among suitable varieties of June-bearing cultivars for Michigan are "Allstar" (Fragaria ananassa "Allstar") and "Jewel" (Fragaria ananassa "Jewel"), both of which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, and "Cavendish" (Fragaria ananassa "Cavendish") and "Annapolis" (Fragaria ananassa "Annapolis"), which are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Ever-bearing varieties produce two relatively small crops, the first in the spring and the second in the early fall; the timing of the crops is triggered by the length of daylight hours. Day-neutral varieties produce berries independently of day length and may produce through most of the season. Recommended cultivars for the state include "Tribute" (Fragaria ananassa "Tribute") and "Tristar" (Fragaria ananassa "Tristar"), which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8.
Site Selection
Strawberries prefer well-drained soils that contain plenty of organic matter. They also need at least 8 hours of sunlight per day to produce well, so they should be planted in full sun; although the plants can tolerate partial shade, they're unlikely to bear well if they don't get enough light.
Strawberries will also produce best if they're growing in slightly acidic soil with a pH level between 5.3 and 6.5.
Soil Preparation
Strawberries benefit from consistent soil moisture, so the soil in the planting bed needs to drain well yet retain enough moisture to keep the plants' roots from drying out. Incorporating 1 to 4 inches of organic compost or peat moss into the soil will help by contributing moisture-retentive material to sandy soils that otherwise might drain too quickly and by loosening dense clay soils that might retain too much water.
Setting Plants
Plant strawberries as early in the spring as possible so that they have plenty of time to get established at the beginning of the season.
Strawberries must be planted at the correct depth or they won't grow well. If they're planted so shallowly that the roots are exposed, the roots may dry out, but if they're planted so deeply that the crown where the leaves emerge is buried, the plant may rot. Place the plants so that the surface of the soil meets the midpoint of the crown. Firm the soil around the plants and water them well.
In laying out rows of plants, space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, with 3 or 4 feet between rows.
In a "matted row" planting system, plants are allowed to send out runners from which new plants grow and fill in the row; this system works well with June-bearing varieties. In a "hill" planting systems, runners are cut off and not allowed to produce new plants; this system is most often used with ever-bearing or day-neutral varieties.
Recommended Varieties
June-bearing strawberry varieties produce one large crop of berries, usually in mid-June in Michigan, and they typically produce more berries per season than other types of plants. Among suitable varieties of June-bearing cultivars for Michigan are "Allstar" (Fragaria ananassa "Allstar") and "Jewel" (Fragaria ananassa "Jewel"), both of which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, and "Cavendish" (Fragaria ananassa "Cavendish") and "Annapolis" (Fragaria ananassa "Annapolis"), which are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Ever-bearing varieties produce two relatively small crops, the first in the spring and the second in the early fall; the timing of the crops is triggered by the length of daylight hours. Day-neutral varieties produce berries independently of day length and may produce through most of the season. Recommended cultivars for the state include "Tribute" (Fragaria ananassa "Tribute") and "Tristar" (Fragaria ananassa "Tristar"), which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8.
Site Selection
Strawberries prefer well-drained soils that contain plenty of organic matter. They also need at least 8 hours of sunlight per day to produce well, so they should be planted in full sun; although the plants can tolerate partial shade, they're unlikely to bear well if they don't get enough light.
Strawberries will also produce best if they're growing in slightly acidic soil with a pH level between 5.3 and 6.5.
Soil Preparation
Strawberries benefit from consistent soil moisture, so the soil in the planting bed needs to drain well yet retain enough moisture to keep the plants' roots from drying out. Incorporating 1 to 4 inches of organic compost or peat moss into the soil will help by contributing moisture-retentive material to sandy soils that otherwise might drain too quickly and by loosening dense clay soils that might retain too much water.
Setting Plants
Plant strawberries as early in the spring as possible so that they have plenty of time to get established at the beginning of the season.
Strawberries must be planted at the correct depth or they won't grow well. If they're planted so shallowly that the roots are exposed, the roots may dry out, but if they're planted so deeply that the crown where the leaves emerge is buried, the plant may rot. Place the plants so that the surface of the soil meets the midpoint of the crown. Firm the soil around the plants and water them well.
In laying out rows of plants, space plants 18 to 24 inches apart, with 3 or 4 feet between rows.
In a "matted row" planting system, plants are allowed to send out runners from which new plants grow and fill in the row; this system works well with June-bearing varieties. In a "hill" planting systems, runners are cut off and not allowed to produce new plants; this system is most often used with ever-bearing or day-neutral varieties.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
The gray mold fungus is the main cause of mold in strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa). Gray mold, Botrytis cinerea, usually affects strawberries growing in cold or damp conditions and it makes them inedible. Contact with decayed plant material also helps spread gray mold. Strawberries grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety. Buying new, disease-free plants every year helps reduce problems with mold.
Causes of Mold
Mold overwinters in plant debris and on living plants that carry the disease, and infects strawberries when conditions are right. Ripe, red strawberries or unripe green strawberries can suffer from mold, but the fungus most quickly affects ripening fruit.
Contact with soil, dead leaves and infected fruit spreads the mold fungus. Fungus spores can also spread through people touching infected fruits and then healthy fruits, and on the wind. Gray mold develops when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Wet weather, high humidity and overhead watering also encourage mold growth. Overfertilizing strawberry plants creates lush, soft growth that's vulnerable to mold attack.
Symptoms of Infection
Strawberries infected with gray mold develop minor symptoms that gradually become worse. Infections often begin under the small leaves surrounding the strawberry stalks. Light brown spots appear, which grow larger and develop gray, dusty mold that covers the whole fruit. Strawberry fruits infected with gray mold usually maintain their shape. Infected fruits don't recover. In unfavorable conditions, such as dry, warm air and good air circulation, the disease progresses slowly. The strawberry plant's eaves and stems usually look normal, though gray mold can spread up strawberry stalks.
Preventing Mold
Avoiding crowding and shady sites and use other =controls help prevent mold in strawberries. Grow strawberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 18 inches apart in open, full-sun sites. Stagger the plants so that they are diagonally opposite in their rows.
Water strawberries with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and not with a watering can, garden hose or sprinklers. Spread a sheet of woven plastic that allows water to penetrate, or another mulch, between the plants to prevent fruits from touching the soil. Suitable mulches include clean straw, sawdust and paper. Don't fertilize strawberries in spring, but wait until after harvesting the fruits. Apply a 16-16-16 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pound for each 100 square feet, when the strawberry leaves are dry. Don't allow the fertilizer to touch the leaves.
Removing dead and diseased fruits and foliage also helps prevent gray mold from spreading. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping the blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, before and after pruning strawberries.
Treating Mold
Regular spraying with a fungicide helps protect strawberries from mold. Put on long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, safety goggles and gloves before spraying strawberries with fungicides.
On a dry, still day in spring, when new growth appears on the strawberries, dilute a fungicide containing 48.9 percent N-trichtoromethylthio~cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboximide at a rate of 2 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. One gallon of solution treats 100 square feet of strawberry plants. Spray the plants, covering all plant surfaces, and spray them again every seven days until harvest. Manufacturers' instructions vary from product to product, so always read the product label and follow the instructions. Make sure any product you buy is safe to use on edibles.
Causes of Mold
Mold overwinters in plant debris and on living plants that carry the disease, and infects strawberries when conditions are right. Ripe, red strawberries or unripe green strawberries can suffer from mold, but the fungus most quickly affects ripening fruit.
Contact with soil, dead leaves and infected fruit spreads the mold fungus. Fungus spores can also spread through people touching infected fruits and then healthy fruits, and on the wind. Gray mold develops when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Wet weather, high humidity and overhead watering also encourage mold growth. Overfertilizing strawberry plants creates lush, soft growth that's vulnerable to mold attack.
Symptoms of Infection
Strawberries infected with gray mold develop minor symptoms that gradually become worse. Infections often begin under the small leaves surrounding the strawberry stalks. Light brown spots appear, which grow larger and develop gray, dusty mold that covers the whole fruit. Strawberry fruits infected with gray mold usually maintain their shape. Infected fruits don't recover. In unfavorable conditions, such as dry, warm air and good air circulation, the disease progresses slowly. The strawberry plant's eaves and stems usually look normal, though gray mold can spread up strawberry stalks.
Preventing Mold
Avoiding crowding and shady sites and use other =controls help prevent mold in strawberries. Grow strawberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 18 inches apart in open, full-sun sites. Stagger the plants so that they are diagonally opposite in their rows.
Water strawberries with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and not with a watering can, garden hose or sprinklers. Spread a sheet of woven plastic that allows water to penetrate, or another mulch, between the plants to prevent fruits from touching the soil. Suitable mulches include clean straw, sawdust and paper. Don't fertilize strawberries in spring, but wait until after harvesting the fruits. Apply a 16-16-16 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pound for each 100 square feet, when the strawberry leaves are dry. Don't allow the fertilizer to touch the leaves.
Removing dead and diseased fruits and foliage also helps prevent gray mold from spreading. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping the blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, before and after pruning strawberries.
Treating Mold
Regular spraying with a fungicide helps protect strawberries from mold. Put on long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, safety goggles and gloves before spraying strawberries with fungicides.
On a dry, still day in spring, when new growth appears on the strawberries, dilute a fungicide containing 48.9 percent N-trichtoromethylthio~cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboximide at a rate of 2 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. One gallon of solution treats 100 square feet of strawberry plants. Spray the plants, covering all plant surfaces, and spray them again every seven days until harvest. Manufacturers' instructions vary from product to product, so always read the product label and follow the instructions. Make sure any product you buy is safe to use on edibles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
The gray mold fungus is the main cause of mold in strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa). Gray mold, Botrytis cinerea, usually affects strawberries growing in cold or damp conditions and it makes them inedible. Contact with decayed plant material also helps spread gray mold. Strawberries grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety. Buying new, disease-free plants every year helps reduce problems with mold.
Causes of Mold
Mold overwinters in plant debris and on living plants that carry the disease, and infects strawberries when conditions are right. Ripe, red strawberries or unripe green strawberries can suffer from mold, but the fungus most quickly affects ripening fruit.
Contact with soil, dead leaves and infected fruit spreads the mold fungus. Fungus spores can also spread through people touching infected fruits and then healthy fruits, and on the wind. Gray mold develops when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Wet weather, high humidity and overhead watering also encourage mold growth. Overfertilizing strawberry plants creates lush, soft growth that's vulnerable to mold attack.
Symptoms of Infection
Strawberries infected with gray mold develop minor symptoms that gradually become worse. Infections often begin under the small leaves surrounding the strawberry stalks. Light brown spots appear, which grow larger and develop gray, dusty mold that covers the whole fruit. Strawberry fruits infected with gray mold usually maintain their shape. Infected fruits don't recover. In unfavorable conditions, such as dry, warm air and good air circulation, the disease progresses slowly. The strawberry plant's eaves and stems usually look normal, though gray mold can spread up strawberry stalks.
Preventing Mold
Avoiding crowding and shady sites and use other =controls help prevent mold in strawberries. Grow strawberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 18 inches apart in open, full-sun sites. Stagger the plants so that they are diagonally opposite in their rows.
Water strawberries with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and not with a watering can, garden hose or sprinklers. Spread a sheet of woven plastic that allows water to penetrate, or another mulch, between the plants to prevent fruits from touching the soil. Suitable mulches include clean straw, sawdust and paper. Don't fertilize strawberries in spring, but wait until after harvesting the fruits. Apply a 16-16-16 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pound for each 100 square feet, when the strawberry leaves are dry. Don't allow the fertilizer to touch the leaves.
Removing dead and diseased fruits and foliage also helps prevent gray mold from spreading. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping the blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, before and after pruning strawberries.
Treating Mold
Regular spraying with a fungicide helps protect strawberries from mold. Put on long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, safety goggles and gloves before spraying strawberries with fungicides.
On a dry, still day in spring, when new growth appears on the strawberries, dilute a fungicide containing 48.9 percent N-trichtoromethylthio~cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboximide at a rate of 2 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. One gallon of solution treats 100 square feet of strawberry plants. Spray the plants, covering all plant surfaces, and spray them again every seven days until harvest. Manufacturers' instructions vary from product to product, so always read the product label and follow the instructions. Make sure any product you buy is safe to use on edibles.
Causes of Mold
Mold overwinters in plant debris and on living plants that carry the disease, and infects strawberries when conditions are right. Ripe, red strawberries or unripe green strawberries can suffer from mold, but the fungus most quickly affects ripening fruit.
Contact with soil, dead leaves and infected fruit spreads the mold fungus. Fungus spores can also spread through people touching infected fruits and then healthy fruits, and on the wind. Gray mold develops when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Wet weather, high humidity and overhead watering also encourage mold growth. Overfertilizing strawberry plants creates lush, soft growth that's vulnerable to mold attack.
Symptoms of Infection
Strawberries infected with gray mold develop minor symptoms that gradually become worse. Infections often begin under the small leaves surrounding the strawberry stalks. Light brown spots appear, which grow larger and develop gray, dusty mold that covers the whole fruit. Strawberry fruits infected with gray mold usually maintain their shape. Infected fruits don't recover. In unfavorable conditions, such as dry, warm air and good air circulation, the disease progresses slowly. The strawberry plant's eaves and stems usually look normal, though gray mold can spread up strawberry stalks.
Preventing Mold
Avoiding crowding and shady sites and use other =controls help prevent mold in strawberries. Grow strawberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 18 inches apart in open, full-sun sites. Stagger the plants so that they are diagonally opposite in their rows.
Water strawberries with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and not with a watering can, garden hose or sprinklers. Spread a sheet of woven plastic that allows water to penetrate, or another mulch, between the plants to prevent fruits from touching the soil. Suitable mulches include clean straw, sawdust and paper. Don't fertilize strawberries in spring, but wait until after harvesting the fruits. Apply a 16-16-16 fertilizer at a rate of 1 1/2 pound for each 100 square feet, when the strawberry leaves are dry. Don't allow the fertilizer to touch the leaves.
Removing dead and diseased fruits and foliage also helps prevent gray mold from spreading. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping the blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, before and after pruning strawberries.
Treating Mold
Regular spraying with a fungicide helps protect strawberries from mold. Put on long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, safety goggles and gloves before spraying strawberries with fungicides.
On a dry, still day in spring, when new growth appears on the strawberries, dilute a fungicide containing 48.9 percent N-trichtoromethylthio~cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboximide at a rate of 2 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. One gallon of solution treats 100 square feet of strawberry plants. Spray the plants, covering all plant surfaces, and spray them again every seven days until harvest. Manufacturers' instructions vary from product to product, so always read the product label and follow the instructions. Make sure any product you buy is safe to use on edibles.
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