文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow thick fleshy leaves and stems that store moisture and nutrients. This ability allows the plants to thrive in dry conditions. Potted succulents often require less watering and fertilizer than other houseplant varieties, but the irrigation they do require flushes nutrients out of the soil, so they need periodic feeding. Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen blends, increase leaf and root rot problems. It’s vital to use the right blend and avoid overfeeding to keep the succulents healthy.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are marvels of nature that store extra water in their leaves, stems, or roots. Because they have the reputation for growing in arid conditions, many people fail to realize that when we bring them into our home and garden environments, they do need to be watered regularly. We share what you need to know on how to water succulents and keep them thriving.
How to Water Succulents Indoors
Rather than giving your succulents sips of water here and there, give them a good soaking — to the point the water runs out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Be sure to empty the water that runs into the saucer beneath the plant pot. Then let the soil dry out completely before watering again.
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Jade Plants, Kalanchoe, Aloe vera, and Sansevieria are popular choices for indoor plants. Succulents also include cacti, which, generally, may need less water than other succulents.
Succulents like well-drained soil. A good quality potting soil mixed with either a material such as perlite will help ensure good drainage. In addition to quality potting media, make sure your containers have drainage holes, because too much moisture can result in rotten roots.
Succulents require more water in the early spring when the plant is growing. Water needs may lessen in the summer and even more so during the winter. When the light decreases during the winter months and most succulents are in a dormant period, their water requirements also decrease. During winter, water your succulents when the soil is dry. This could be as infrequently as once per month but will depend on your conditions.
The frequency of watering will also depend on the light and growing conditions in your area, as well as the size of the container. The larger the container, the more moisture it can hold. Small, shallow pots may need to be watered more frequently.
How to Water Succulents in Outdoor Containers
Summer is a good time to move potted succulents outdoors. Though they love sun, give them a chance to acclimate to outdoor conditions by placing them in a partially shaded area before moving to a sunnier location. Keep them out of intense sunlight from late morning to mid afternoon. Outdoor plants generally require more water than indoor plants. Again, your conditions will dictate how often succulents will need water. Start by checking on a weekly basis, paying attention to the condition of the potting media and whether it’s bone dry or moist.
Succulents, including cacti, which are grown in shallow containers, may need water every few days.
How to Water Succulents in the Ground
Succulents, particularly Sedums, grow quite well in the ground. They, too, may need to be watered weekly, depending on conditions. Established plants will have a stronger root system and tolerate dry conditions much better than new plants.
Whether you grow hardy or annual succulents, they need to be in well-drained soil. Standing water is a prescription for disaster. As with houseplants, soil conditions and water needs go hand-in-hand.
How to Water Succulents Indoors
Rather than giving your succulents sips of water here and there, give them a good soaking — to the point the water runs out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Be sure to empty the water that runs into the saucer beneath the plant pot. Then let the soil dry out completely before watering again.
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Jade Plants, Kalanchoe, Aloe vera, and Sansevieria are popular choices for indoor plants. Succulents also include cacti, which, generally, may need less water than other succulents.
Succulents like well-drained soil. A good quality potting soil mixed with either a material such as perlite will help ensure good drainage. In addition to quality potting media, make sure your containers have drainage holes, because too much moisture can result in rotten roots.
Succulents require more water in the early spring when the plant is growing. Water needs may lessen in the summer and even more so during the winter. When the light decreases during the winter months and most succulents are in a dormant period, their water requirements also decrease. During winter, water your succulents when the soil is dry. This could be as infrequently as once per month but will depend on your conditions.
The frequency of watering will also depend on the light and growing conditions in your area, as well as the size of the container. The larger the container, the more moisture it can hold. Small, shallow pots may need to be watered more frequently.
How to Water Succulents in Outdoor Containers
Summer is a good time to move potted succulents outdoors. Though they love sun, give them a chance to acclimate to outdoor conditions by placing them in a partially shaded area before moving to a sunnier location. Keep them out of intense sunlight from late morning to mid afternoon. Outdoor plants generally require more water than indoor plants. Again, your conditions will dictate how often succulents will need water. Start by checking on a weekly basis, paying attention to the condition of the potting media and whether it’s bone dry or moist.
Succulents, including cacti, which are grown in shallow containers, may need water every few days.
How to Water Succulents in the Ground
Succulents, particularly Sedums, grow quite well in the ground. They, too, may need to be watered weekly, depending on conditions. Established plants will have a stronger root system and tolerate dry conditions much better than new plants.
Whether you grow hardy or annual succulents, they need to be in well-drained soil. Standing water is a prescription for disaster. As with houseplants, soil conditions and water needs go hand-in-hand.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
A group of plants called succulents that have either fleshy stems and/or leaves are often chosen as house plants for direct light conditions. Their ability to endure drought is reflected in the succulent stem/leaf condition where water is stored. These plants come from many plant families; most notably the cactus family. Others in this group, however, come from sub-tropical areas where light conditions are less extreme and moisture is more abundant. In this second group we find the Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter and Orchid cacti. Some refer to this group as the jungle cacti because they are found as understory plants in tropical forests.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are an invaluable plant, because they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Succulents are water-retaining and are adapted to arid climates and soil conditions. High temperatures and low precipitation have forced these plants to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of different leaf forms and plant shapes.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
There’s a lot to love about gardening with succulents. These attractive plants are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, making succulents ideal for busy gardeners of all ages. Under the right growing conditions, these carefree plants rarely suffer from diseases or pests. To get you started, here are several helpful tips for growing succulents.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Eulychnia is a genus of candelabriform or arborescent cacti, comprising between 6 and 9 species depending on the authority. These relatively large plants which reach up to 23 feet (7 m) high can survive under very hot conditions—temperatures can reach up to 122 °F (50 °C). Furthermore, this breed of cacti can also survive in some of the driest places in the world such as the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you want beautiful yards that can survive extreme drought conditions, it’s time you become familiar with succulent gardening.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a common houseplant that even the most novice of gardeners can grow successfully. Getting a Jade Plant to bloom requires mimicking its native growing conditions. Lack of water, cool nights and bright days encourage the plant to form buds and finally flowers. It’s a bit of a trick, but you can fool your plant into producing pretty little starry white to pink flowers in spring.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) are a classic houseplant, especially for the neglectful home owner. It prefer bright light and occasional water in the warm season, but other than that the plants are fairly self-sufficient. In good conditions, you may still find white spots on Jade Plant leaves; but if the plant’s overall health is good, you should not worry too much. What causes white spots on Jade Plant? It may be a natural phenomenon or a bit of a fungal disease, but either way, there are easy methods to define and deal with the problem.
What Causes White Spots?
The few times I have discovered white spots on my Jade Plant, I simply rubbed them off lightly and the plant was no worse for wear. The actual cause of the white spots on Jade Plant leaves might be powdery mildew, or even a condition where the plant stores salts and “sweats” the excess out through its leaves. One cause has a quick fix and the other requires some cultural adjustment and treatment. Both are really not all that harmful to your plant and learning how to get rid of white spots on Jade Plants is a matter of some quick steps.
Powdery Mildew
Most gardeners are familiar with powdery mildew. It occurs when there is low light, improper circulation, cooler temperatures and excess humidity. Overhead watering leaves foliage damp, which in winter months tends to stay moist for a long period. This promotes the formation of fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.
Avoid overhead watering and use a fan to increase circulation. Pinch off affected foliage and discard it. A solution of baking soda and vinegar is how to get rid of white spots on jade plants with powdery mildew. Spray on the leaves but ensure the leaves dry within a few hours.
Excess Salts
All plants uptake water through their roots with a few rare exceptions. Jade Plants store water in their fleshy leaves, which makes them ideal species in arid zones. They capture infrequent rainwater and store it until they need it much like a squirrel hoarding nuts. This gives the leaves their plump appearance.
Rain and ground water alike capture salt from the air and soil. When you water with a salty solution, the trapped moisture will go through the leaves during transpiration and the evaporated moisture will leave a salt residue on the leaf. Therefore, your Jade Plant has white spots on the surface of the pads. A soft, lightly moist cloth can wipe these away easily and restore the appearance of the foliage.
Other Reasons for White Spots
Jade Plants often get a condition called Oedema, where the roots take up water faster than the plant can use it. This causes corky blisters to form on the foliage. Reducing water should prevent the condition, but the blisters will remain.
Rarely, you may find a Jade Plant has white spots which are actually insects. Mealybugs have a whitish silver fuzzy exterior. If your white spots are moving under close observation, take action and seclude the Jade Plant from other plants.
The spots may also be a variety of scale with silvery bodies. Both can be conquered with a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants or by dabbing them with a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
Jade Plants are not usually prone to insect infestations, but if you put the plant outdoors for the summer, take a good look at it before bringing it indoors and infecting your other flora.
What Causes White Spots?
The few times I have discovered white spots on my Jade Plant, I simply rubbed them off lightly and the plant was no worse for wear. The actual cause of the white spots on Jade Plant leaves might be powdery mildew, or even a condition where the plant stores salts and “sweats” the excess out through its leaves. One cause has a quick fix and the other requires some cultural adjustment and treatment. Both are really not all that harmful to your plant and learning how to get rid of white spots on Jade Plants is a matter of some quick steps.
Powdery Mildew
Most gardeners are familiar with powdery mildew. It occurs when there is low light, improper circulation, cooler temperatures and excess humidity. Overhead watering leaves foliage damp, which in winter months tends to stay moist for a long period. This promotes the formation of fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.
Avoid overhead watering and use a fan to increase circulation. Pinch off affected foliage and discard it. A solution of baking soda and vinegar is how to get rid of white spots on jade plants with powdery mildew. Spray on the leaves but ensure the leaves dry within a few hours.
Excess Salts
All plants uptake water through their roots with a few rare exceptions. Jade Plants store water in their fleshy leaves, which makes them ideal species in arid zones. They capture infrequent rainwater and store it until they need it much like a squirrel hoarding nuts. This gives the leaves their plump appearance.
Rain and ground water alike capture salt from the air and soil. When you water with a salty solution, the trapped moisture will go through the leaves during transpiration and the evaporated moisture will leave a salt residue on the leaf. Therefore, your Jade Plant has white spots on the surface of the pads. A soft, lightly moist cloth can wipe these away easily and restore the appearance of the foliage.
Other Reasons for White Spots
Jade Plants often get a condition called Oedema, where the roots take up water faster than the plant can use it. This causes corky blisters to form on the foliage. Reducing water should prevent the condition, but the blisters will remain.
Rarely, you may find a Jade Plant has white spots which are actually insects. Mealybugs have a whitish silver fuzzy exterior. If your white spots are moving under close observation, take action and seclude the Jade Plant from other plants.
The spots may also be a variety of scale with silvery bodies. Both can be conquered with a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants or by dabbing them with a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
Jade Plants are not usually prone to insect infestations, but if you put the plant outdoors for the summer, take a good look at it before bringing it indoors and infecting your other flora.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Several viruses infect tomatoes and peppers. The two most common are tobacco mosaic virus and cucumber mosaic virus.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms vary depending upon the virus and strain, the plant, time of year, and environmental conditions. The most common symptoms include leaf mottling; puckering or curling; stem and petiole streaking; rough, deformed or spotted fruit; stunted plants; and blossom and fruit drop. Some viruses cause the leaves of tomatoes to become fernlike or develop a thin "shoestring" appearance. Symptoms may be confused with herbicide damage.
Life Cycle
Viruses have no active way of penetrating plant parts. They rely upon mechanical wounds, infected seeds, and being carried in the bodies of insects for transmission. The virus can also be present in tobacco and transmitted to plants by the hands of people who smoke. Once inside the plant cells, the virus replicates. The virus does not usually kill the plant and takes over the metabolic processes of the leaf, resulting in abnormal cell functioning and growth.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected, there are no practical field methods of curing the plant of the virus. Remove infected plants as soon as they are noticed to reduce the chance of spreading the disease.
2. Follow strict sanitation. Persons handling plants must refrain from the use of tobacco or risk infecting the plants. Remove weeds in the area that could harbor the virus.
3. Control insects. Because insects, especially aphids, vector cucumber mosaic, make every effort to keep insects under control using sticky traps or insecticides.
4. Plant resistant varieties. In subsequent years, plant varieties that are resistant to the most common viruses. Look for varieties that are marked TMV or CMV after the variety name.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms vary depending upon the virus and strain, the plant, time of year, and environmental conditions. The most common symptoms include leaf mottling; puckering or curling; stem and petiole streaking; rough, deformed or spotted fruit; stunted plants; and blossom and fruit drop. Some viruses cause the leaves of tomatoes to become fernlike or develop a thin "shoestring" appearance. Symptoms may be confused with herbicide damage.
Life Cycle
Viruses have no active way of penetrating plant parts. They rely upon mechanical wounds, infected seeds, and being carried in the bodies of insects for transmission. The virus can also be present in tobacco and transmitted to plants by the hands of people who smoke. Once inside the plant cells, the virus replicates. The virus does not usually kill the plant and takes over the metabolic processes of the leaf, resulting in abnormal cell functioning and growth.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected, there are no practical field methods of curing the plant of the virus. Remove infected plants as soon as they are noticed to reduce the chance of spreading the disease.
2. Follow strict sanitation. Persons handling plants must refrain from the use of tobacco or risk infecting the plants. Remove weeds in the area that could harbor the virus.
3. Control insects. Because insects, especially aphids, vector cucumber mosaic, make every effort to keep insects under control using sticky traps or insecticides.
4. Plant resistant varieties. In subsequent years, plant varieties that are resistant to the most common viruses. Look for varieties that are marked TMV or CMV after the variety name.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are typically well-suited to indoor living. They can even adapt to less-than-ideal conditions and tolerate a little bit of neglect. Still, no succulent can survive in subpar conditions forever. Eventually inadequate lighting, incorrect watering, disease or pests will take their toll. Once your plants start to look sickly, you need to act quickly to right the problem. Most sickly succulents come back to life with a few simple changes to their environment or care routine.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Pestalotiopsis is a type of needle blight fungal disease that is primarily found on arborvitae (Thuja). It is usually considered a secondary disease that attacks foliage that has been injured or weakened by unfavorable weather or growing conditions. The disease may kill the smaller twigs where the infected needles died.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The blight usually starts at the tip of the foliage and progresses towards the leaf base. Affected foliage color progresses from green to yellowish, then to a dark brown that looks almost black. Twig tips can also turn brown and have black, pimple-like, pinhead size, fungal fruiting structures dotting the surface. Usually, killed foliage is near the base of the plant where foliage is relatively dense. The plants may appear scorched.
Life Cycle
Infections can occur at anytime of year. However, spring is the most likely time because favorable weather conditions exist and plants are showing stress from winter conditions.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Avoid over crowding plants to allow for sufficient sunlight and air circulation.
2. Keep plants healthy with good cultural practices. Follow proper watering, fertilization practices and minimize any mechanical and snow/ice damage, etc. that could cause an entry point for the fungus.
3. Prune out dead foliage and twigs as soon as possible.
4. Application of fungicides should not be necessary. If necessary in certain circumstances (e.g. a nursery), copper fungicides are registered for this use as a preventative. Always read and follow product label directions before application to plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The blight usually starts at the tip of the foliage and progresses towards the leaf base. Affected foliage color progresses from green to yellowish, then to a dark brown that looks almost black. Twig tips can also turn brown and have black, pimple-like, pinhead size, fungal fruiting structures dotting the surface. Usually, killed foliage is near the base of the plant where foliage is relatively dense. The plants may appear scorched.
Life Cycle
Infections can occur at anytime of year. However, spring is the most likely time because favorable weather conditions exist and plants are showing stress from winter conditions.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Avoid over crowding plants to allow for sufficient sunlight and air circulation.
2. Keep plants healthy with good cultural practices. Follow proper watering, fertilization practices and minimize any mechanical and snow/ice damage, etc. that could cause an entry point for the fungus.
3. Prune out dead foliage and twigs as soon as possible.
4. Application of fungicides should not be necessary. If necessary in certain circumstances (e.g. a nursery), copper fungicides are registered for this use as a preventative. Always read and follow product label directions before application to plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Whiteflies are harmful to both outdoor and indoor plants by sucking plant sap. Under certain conditions, they can also transmit disease. The whitefly parasite (Encarsia formosa) lays its eggs — as many as 50 to 100 — in both pupae and later larval stages of the white fly, destroying them before they can become adults. The host larva turns black as the parasite develops. It emerges, depending on conditions, in about two weeks. The adults will also feed on the larval juices released when they puncture the larvae.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including whitefly parasites, at Planet Natural. One strip of cards — 500 parasitic wasps — treats up to 250 square feet and costs $29.50 with USPS Priority Mail shipping included!
Attracted to the flies by the smell of the honeydew they produce, E. formosa is an efficient biological control of whitefly and one of the most cost effective ways to control greenhouse and indoor infestations of the pest.
Humidity and strong light encourage the parasite’s activity. Temperature is also key as the parasite will not fly and seek out new prey at temperatures under 62 degrees. Its preference for warm, humid, well-lit conditions make the whitefly parasite the perfect solution for indoor and greenhouse whitefly problems.
Depending on pest levels, the following release rates have been established:
2-4 per square foot of infested area
1-2 per plant when pests are first noticed
Whitefly parasites are shipped as mature pupae in host eggs, glued to a paper card and almost ready to hatch as adult parasitic wasps. If pest levels are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide (insecticidal soap, botanical insecticide) to establish control, then release beneficials 2-3 weeks later to maintain control.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including whitefly parasites, at Planet Natural. One strip of cards — 500 parasitic wasps — treats up to 250 square feet and costs $29.50 with USPS Priority Mail shipping included!
Attracted to the flies by the smell of the honeydew they produce, E. formosa is an efficient biological control of whitefly and one of the most cost effective ways to control greenhouse and indoor infestations of the pest.
Humidity and strong light encourage the parasite’s activity. Temperature is also key as the parasite will not fly and seek out new prey at temperatures under 62 degrees. Its preference for warm, humid, well-lit conditions make the whitefly parasite the perfect solution for indoor and greenhouse whitefly problems.
Depending on pest levels, the following release rates have been established:
2-4 per square foot of infested area
1-2 per plant when pests are first noticed
Whitefly parasites are shipped as mature pupae in host eggs, glued to a paper card and almost ready to hatch as adult parasitic wasps. If pest levels are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide (insecticidal soap, botanical insecticide) to establish control, then release beneficials 2-3 weeks later to maintain control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Downy Mildew on Impatiens
There's been an increase in downy mildew affecting Impatiens plants recently. The particular mildew affecting impatiens is Plasmopara abducens. It spreads rapidly, under the right conditions, and once infected, there is no cure. However, there are some preventative measures you can take. But first, here's some background to help you understand the disease.
What is Downy Mildew?
Downy mildew diseases are caused by oomycetes or water molds. They are fungus-like, but more closely related to algae.
There are 2 types of downy mildew spores. One type, zoospores, can be splashed up by water or spread by the wind. The other type, oospores, reside inside the plant tissue and can spread rapidly and over-winter. At this point, there is no evidence that this particular mildew affecting impatiens is doing that, but why take chances.
Downy mildew is more prevalent in the spring and fall when the cool, wet or humid weather provides ideal conditions.
Which Impatiens Varieties are Affected?
According to an e-Grow Alert by Nora Catlin, Floriculture Specialist, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County, the following types of Impatiens are susceptible to downy mildew.
All Impatiens waller IANA, including the double and mini types. These are the most common bedding impatiens sold in garden centers. (I. waller IANA hybrids, like the Fusion® series, are less prone, but still susceptible)
Balsam Impatiens / Garden Balsam (I. balsam in a) These are taller plants than common Impatiens, with elongated, pointed leaves.
Jewel Weed (I. capers is) and Yellow Jewel Weed (I. pallidum). Generally considered weeds, but if they are in the area, they can spread the disease to your landscape Impatiens.
Impatiens Not Affected
Himalayan balsam / policeman’s helmet (Impatiens glanduliferous), a wild and sometimes invasive species that can reach heights of 6 - 10 ft. (2 - 3 m), is tolerant of the disease but can act as a host.
New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkers) and its hybrids, like SunPatiens®, have so far shown resistance.
There may be more plants affected or that act as hosts, but this is the information so far.
Symptoms of Downy Mildew on Impatiens
Early symptoms can be hard to spot and might be mistaken for a nutrient problem.
Leaves stippled or chlorotic (yellowing) and looking like they need fertilizer.
Floppy or downward curling leaves.
Sometimes white fuzzy spots will form on the undersides of the leaves. These are spores and usually appear in cool, damp weather. (See photo on page 2.)
As the disease progresses the plants may stop growing and look stunted, drop their leaves or completely collapse.
What to Do about Downy Mildew on Impatiens
Although there is no cure for Impatiens already infected with downy mildew, there are some steps you can take keep it from spreading.
Prevention
Avoiding downy mildew entirely can be very difficult, because so much is weather dependent. High humidity and cool, damp weather cannot always be avoided. But there are a few growing conditions you can provide, so as not to make matters worse.
Provide good air circulation. Don't overcrowd your plants.
Water from below, trying not to wet the leaves when watering and water early in the day.
Remove any suspect plants immediately.
Cultural management is your best bet. Once a plant is infected, there is no cure. If you want to try controlling the spread of the disease with a preventative fungicide, neem and copper sprays are recommended for homeowners.
Will it Over-Winter and Re-infect Plants?
So far, there is no sign that it infects seed, although other mildews do - so there is a chance. Some mildews can also over-winter in plant tissues. Although that does not seem to be happening with this downy mildew, don't take a chance by composting affected plants.
If downy mildew becomes a major problem in your garden, you should consider not planting them for a year or two. Shade plant alternatives to impatiens include New Guinea impatiens, begonias, and coleus.
Additional resources:
Downy Mildew of Impatiens – Some (But Not All) Questions Answered
Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County
There's been an increase in downy mildew affecting Impatiens plants recently. The particular mildew affecting impatiens is Plasmopara abducens. It spreads rapidly, under the right conditions, and once infected, there is no cure. However, there are some preventative measures you can take. But first, here's some background to help you understand the disease.
What is Downy Mildew?
Downy mildew diseases are caused by oomycetes or water molds. They are fungus-like, but more closely related to algae.
There are 2 types of downy mildew spores. One type, zoospores, can be splashed up by water or spread by the wind. The other type, oospores, reside inside the plant tissue and can spread rapidly and over-winter. At this point, there is no evidence that this particular mildew affecting impatiens is doing that, but why take chances.
Downy mildew is more prevalent in the spring and fall when the cool, wet or humid weather provides ideal conditions.
Which Impatiens Varieties are Affected?
According to an e-Grow Alert by Nora Catlin, Floriculture Specialist, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County, the following types of Impatiens are susceptible to downy mildew.
All Impatiens waller IANA, including the double and mini types. These are the most common bedding impatiens sold in garden centers. (I. waller IANA hybrids, like the Fusion® series, are less prone, but still susceptible)
Balsam Impatiens / Garden Balsam (I. balsam in a) These are taller plants than common Impatiens, with elongated, pointed leaves.
Jewel Weed (I. capers is) and Yellow Jewel Weed (I. pallidum). Generally considered weeds, but if they are in the area, they can spread the disease to your landscape Impatiens.
Impatiens Not Affected
Himalayan balsam / policeman’s helmet (Impatiens glanduliferous), a wild and sometimes invasive species that can reach heights of 6 - 10 ft. (2 - 3 m), is tolerant of the disease but can act as a host.
New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkers) and its hybrids, like SunPatiens®, have so far shown resistance.
There may be more plants affected or that act as hosts, but this is the information so far.
Symptoms of Downy Mildew on Impatiens
Early symptoms can be hard to spot and might be mistaken for a nutrient problem.
Leaves stippled or chlorotic (yellowing) and looking like they need fertilizer.
Floppy or downward curling leaves.
Sometimes white fuzzy spots will form on the undersides of the leaves. These are spores and usually appear in cool, damp weather. (See photo on page 2.)
As the disease progresses the plants may stop growing and look stunted, drop their leaves or completely collapse.
What to Do about Downy Mildew on Impatiens
Although there is no cure for Impatiens already infected with downy mildew, there are some steps you can take keep it from spreading.
Prevention
Avoiding downy mildew entirely can be very difficult, because so much is weather dependent. High humidity and cool, damp weather cannot always be avoided. But there are a few growing conditions you can provide, so as not to make matters worse.
Provide good air circulation. Don't overcrowd your plants.
Water from below, trying not to wet the leaves when watering and water early in the day.
Remove any suspect plants immediately.
Cultural management is your best bet. Once a plant is infected, there is no cure. If you want to try controlling the spread of the disease with a preventative fungicide, neem and copper sprays are recommended for homeowners.
Will it Over-Winter and Re-infect Plants?
So far, there is no sign that it infects seed, although other mildews do - so there is a chance. Some mildews can also over-winter in plant tissues. Although that does not seem to be happening with this downy mildew, don't take a chance by composting affected plants.
If downy mildew becomes a major problem in your garden, you should consider not planting them for a year or two. Shade plant alternatives to impatiens include New Guinea impatiens, begonias, and coleus.
Additional resources:
Downy Mildew of Impatiens – Some (But Not All) Questions Answered
Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Does Milk Control Powdery Mildew?
You can do everything right in your garden and there will still be problems - like powdery mildew. Some things are beyond our control. When weather conditions are right, a host of fungal diseases will move in. Keeping your plants healthy and giving them plenty of air circulation will help them withstand many problems, but not all. Sometimes you need the help of a fungicide.
However, that does not necessarily mean you need to use chemicals.
What is Powdery Mildew?
Powdery mildew refers to a group of diseases that all show up as a powdery white coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes even flowers. It does not usually kill plants, but it can weaken them and diminish photosynthesis, leading to poor yield and plants that don't last the season.
It is spread by spores that are carried by the wind or splashed onto leaves. Powdery mildew favors humid, rather than wet conditions. The spores form when the humidity is high and disperse when the humidity diminishes. Spores can over-winter on plants or plant debris and start the process all over again. End of season garden clean-up and planting disease resistant varieties are your best powdery mildew controls.
Although powdery mildew affects many plants, there are several species of powdery mildew fungus and they each have their preferred hosts.
So powdery mildew on zinnias will not move to lilacs or cucumbers.
No matter what plant has powdery mildew, this is a fast spreading problem and you need to take action quickly. However you don't need to reach for the big guns. There are a handful of relatively low toxic remedies and most can be homemade.
A baking soda solution is one and the following milk solution is another.
Using Milk as a Fungicide
Milk has become the latest secret weapon in fighting powdery mildew. Actually it's not so secret and it's been used in treating diseases for decades. It's been tried as an additive to improve the spreading and sticking of other pesticides and Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, of Washington State University, cites many studies where milk was tested against the transmission of tobacco mosaic and other viruses. - to mixed reviews.
Most recently, milk has been getting a lot of good press as an anti-fungal spray, specifically against powdery mildew on cucumbers and squash.
How to Use Milk to Control Powdery Mildew
The dilution used by home gardeners is:
1 part milk to 2 - 3 parts water.
The solution is then sprayed on the plant's leaves every 10-14 days. It works best as a preventative, rather than a cure, which makes it hard to determine whether it actually works since you don't know if your plants would have gotten it anyway.
How does Milk Work as a Fungicide?
For the past several years, researchers have been experimenting with spraying a diluted solution of regular milk on a variety of plants, mostly cucurbits (squash and cucumbers).
They have been seeing enough success to continue experimenting. Home gardeners are now getting in on the research, but very often a control group is missing, so their results are not definitive.
As to exactly how milk works against the fungus, no one is certain. It appears that the proteins in milk offer an antiseptic-like effect, when exposed to sunlight. To be effective, the solution should be applied in bright sun. Soak both sides of the leaves until the solution is dripping.
If you've ever left milk out in heat or direct sun, you know that the odor of spoiled milk is not pleasant, but it does dissipate somewhat quickly. The protein is in the milk fat, and both whole and skim milk have been tried by home gardeners. In fact, researchers used whey, a milk by-product, because it was cheaper.
You can try your own experiments with whatever you have on hand. To really test it, spray the solution on only some plants and leave others untreated.
Author and horticulture professor Dr. Jeff Gillman has also recommended using the milk solution for black spot on roses. There hasn't been a lot of institutional research on this, but home remedies are not profitable and often get short shrift in research. Interestingly, Dr. Gillman also recommends simply spraying plants prone to mildew with water. Since powdery mildew doesn't like getting wet, spraying the plants daily seems to help thwart it.
Sources:
Clemson University Extension
Jeff Gillman
Jeff Gillman on Gotta Garden
Science News
The Myth of Milk and Roses, Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D.
You can do everything right in your garden and there will still be problems - like powdery mildew. Some things are beyond our control. When weather conditions are right, a host of fungal diseases will move in. Keeping your plants healthy and giving them plenty of air circulation will help them withstand many problems, but not all. Sometimes you need the help of a fungicide.
However, that does not necessarily mean you need to use chemicals.
What is Powdery Mildew?
Powdery mildew refers to a group of diseases that all show up as a powdery white coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes even flowers. It does not usually kill plants, but it can weaken them and diminish photosynthesis, leading to poor yield and plants that don't last the season.
It is spread by spores that are carried by the wind or splashed onto leaves. Powdery mildew favors humid, rather than wet conditions. The spores form when the humidity is high and disperse when the humidity diminishes. Spores can over-winter on plants or plant debris and start the process all over again. End of season garden clean-up and planting disease resistant varieties are your best powdery mildew controls.
Although powdery mildew affects many plants, there are several species of powdery mildew fungus and they each have their preferred hosts.
So powdery mildew on zinnias will not move to lilacs or cucumbers.
No matter what plant has powdery mildew, this is a fast spreading problem and you need to take action quickly. However you don't need to reach for the big guns. There are a handful of relatively low toxic remedies and most can be homemade.
A baking soda solution is one and the following milk solution is another.
Using Milk as a Fungicide
Milk has become the latest secret weapon in fighting powdery mildew. Actually it's not so secret and it's been used in treating diseases for decades. It's been tried as an additive to improve the spreading and sticking of other pesticides and Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, of Washington State University, cites many studies where milk was tested against the transmission of tobacco mosaic and other viruses. - to mixed reviews.
Most recently, milk has been getting a lot of good press as an anti-fungal spray, specifically against powdery mildew on cucumbers and squash.
How to Use Milk to Control Powdery Mildew
The dilution used by home gardeners is:
1 part milk to 2 - 3 parts water.
The solution is then sprayed on the plant's leaves every 10-14 days. It works best as a preventative, rather than a cure, which makes it hard to determine whether it actually works since you don't know if your plants would have gotten it anyway.
How does Milk Work as a Fungicide?
For the past several years, researchers have been experimenting with spraying a diluted solution of regular milk on a variety of plants, mostly cucurbits (squash and cucumbers).
They have been seeing enough success to continue experimenting. Home gardeners are now getting in on the research, but very often a control group is missing, so their results are not definitive.
As to exactly how milk works against the fungus, no one is certain. It appears that the proteins in milk offer an antiseptic-like effect, when exposed to sunlight. To be effective, the solution should be applied in bright sun. Soak both sides of the leaves until the solution is dripping.
If you've ever left milk out in heat or direct sun, you know that the odor of spoiled milk is not pleasant, but it does dissipate somewhat quickly. The protein is in the milk fat, and both whole and skim milk have been tried by home gardeners. In fact, researchers used whey, a milk by-product, because it was cheaper.
You can try your own experiments with whatever you have on hand. To really test it, spray the solution on only some plants and leave others untreated.
Author and horticulture professor Dr. Jeff Gillman has also recommended using the milk solution for black spot on roses. There hasn't been a lot of institutional research on this, but home remedies are not profitable and often get short shrift in research. Interestingly, Dr. Gillman also recommends simply spraying plants prone to mildew with water. Since powdery mildew doesn't like getting wet, spraying the plants daily seems to help thwart it.
Sources:
Clemson University Extension
Jeff Gillman
Jeff Gillman on Gotta Garden
Science News
The Myth of Milk and Roses, Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D.
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