文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Known for their tropical habitats, orchids (Orchidaceae) enjoy warm and humid conditions to produce their stunning blossoms on long, outstretched stems. According to Brooklyn Botanic Garden, this huge flowering family prefers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10 for terrestrial species such as ladyslipper orchids (Paphiopedilum spp.) and warmer zones 10 and 11 for or moth orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.). Most orchid species do not grow better in sunlight but prefer partial shade.
Indoor Location
Indirect sunlight exposure is critical for indoor orchids to generate flower stems and blossoms. Choose any window that does not face north for your orchid. North-facing locations do not provide enough sunlight for maximum photosynthesis and flower development. The plant should not be directly on the windowsill -- place it several feet in from the glass to avoid direct sunlight. Use sheer curtains on the window to avoid any accidental sun rays from striking the orchid throughout the day. Alternatively, you can raise your indoor orchids under fluorescent lights ran for approximately 12 hours each day. The lights should be no closer than 6 inches above the foliage to prevent heat stress.
Outdoor Consideration
If you live in warmer regions with mild winters, you can create an outdoor oasis for your orchids under a tree canopy. Choose a tree that has some light penetration rather than a dense canopy with deep shade. Many orchids are epiphytic -- they grow on tree limbs to access the flowing rainwater on the bark. Using cotton string, carefully attach your orchid to a tree limb. You should observe your orchid throughout the next year to verify that direct sunlight does not burn the leaves through open foliage gaps in the tree canopy. Sunlight heat radiating onto the ground and reflecting into the tree canopy provides a sheltered area for healthy orchid growth.
Leaf Signals
Your orchid leaves reflect their sunlight stress level through color changes. Dense shading hinders photosynthesis so leaves respond with more chlorophyll to increase energy production -- your leaves change from a brilliant green to a darkened hue. In contrast, direct sunlight scorches leaves. They appear yellow to beige in color as sunlight damage progresses. Moving your orchid to a new location alleviates sunlight stress, but the plant needs to recover with new leaf growth; your flowering may be reduced or fail altogether for one or more flowering periods.
Temperature Influence
Orchid leaves should have the same ambient temperature as their surrounding environment. If they feel hot, they are exposed to too much sunlight. In fact, orchids need some temperature swings between day and night to signal flowering periods. In general, your orchid needs to be exposed to a minimum 10-degree temperature difference from night to day for normal flowering. Outdoor orchids easily achieve this difference, but indoor specimens may need to be moved to a cooler location to stimulate flowering. Once flower buds emerge, your orchid requires normal indirect sunlight to photosynthesize and support the growing blossoms.
Indoor Location
Indirect sunlight exposure is critical for indoor orchids to generate flower stems and blossoms. Choose any window that does not face north for your orchid. North-facing locations do not provide enough sunlight for maximum photosynthesis and flower development. The plant should not be directly on the windowsill -- place it several feet in from the glass to avoid direct sunlight. Use sheer curtains on the window to avoid any accidental sun rays from striking the orchid throughout the day. Alternatively, you can raise your indoor orchids under fluorescent lights ran for approximately 12 hours each day. The lights should be no closer than 6 inches above the foliage to prevent heat stress.
Outdoor Consideration
If you live in warmer regions with mild winters, you can create an outdoor oasis for your orchids under a tree canopy. Choose a tree that has some light penetration rather than a dense canopy with deep shade. Many orchids are epiphytic -- they grow on tree limbs to access the flowing rainwater on the bark. Using cotton string, carefully attach your orchid to a tree limb. You should observe your orchid throughout the next year to verify that direct sunlight does not burn the leaves through open foliage gaps in the tree canopy. Sunlight heat radiating onto the ground and reflecting into the tree canopy provides a sheltered area for healthy orchid growth.
Leaf Signals
Your orchid leaves reflect their sunlight stress level through color changes. Dense shading hinders photosynthesis so leaves respond with more chlorophyll to increase energy production -- your leaves change from a brilliant green to a darkened hue. In contrast, direct sunlight scorches leaves. They appear yellow to beige in color as sunlight damage progresses. Moving your orchid to a new location alleviates sunlight stress, but the plant needs to recover with new leaf growth; your flowering may be reduced or fail altogether for one or more flowering periods.
Temperature Influence
Orchid leaves should have the same ambient temperature as their surrounding environment. If they feel hot, they are exposed to too much sunlight. In fact, orchids need some temperature swings between day and night to signal flowering periods. In general, your orchid needs to be exposed to a minimum 10-degree temperature difference from night to day for normal flowering. Outdoor orchids easily achieve this difference, but indoor specimens may need to be moved to a cooler location to stimulate flowering. Once flower buds emerge, your orchid requires normal indirect sunlight to photosynthesize and support the growing blossoms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
While most houseplants require a bit of effort in providing appropriate growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity, etc.), growing Chinese evergreens can make even the novice indoor gardener look like an expert. This tropical foliage plant is one of the most durable houseplants you can grow, tolerating poor light, dry air and drought.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Scientifically known as the Rosa rugosa, the beach rose is a sturdy, easy-to-grow shrub that enjoyed by landscapers and home gardeners alike. Not only are beach roses cold-tolerant and disease resistant, they will also withstand conditions that would send most rose bushes into a full wilt. They thrive in poor soil, salt air, windy environments and full sun. However, while they don't require the attention other rose bushes demand, they do need periodic trimming to look their best. Pruning beach roses eliminates old, unattractive or damaged wood, while promoting the growth of new foliage and flowers.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Japanese aralia is a tropical plant that makes a bold statement in the garden, in outdoor containers or as a houseplant. Find out about fatsia growing conditions and care requirements in this article.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Do Alocasia elephant ears have seeds? They do reproduce through seed but it takes years before you will get the big beautiful leaves. Older plants in good conditions will produce a spathe and spadix that will eventually produce seed pods. Elephant ear flower seeds are only viable a short time, so if you want to plant them, harvest the pods and use them as soon as possible.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This lovely wildflower can be found in a number of European countries and will grow in altitudes of up to 2000 metres above sea level. In Britain it is a garden escape that has become naturalised.
It grows in dry to slightly moist conditions in open sunny positions in meadows, and sometimes on woodland edges. The flowers can be pink or greenish-white. Astrantia major prefers calcareous substrates, unlike its smaller relative, Astrantia minor, which can tolerate slightly more acidic conditions. It flowers from mid-June to the middle of September.
Its territory in Europe extends from as far north as Sweden and to the south and east to include the Alps in Austria and Switerland, and the Julian Alps in Slovenia.
It grows in dry to slightly moist conditions in open sunny positions in meadows, and sometimes on woodland edges. The flowers can be pink or greenish-white. Astrantia major prefers calcareous substrates, unlike its smaller relative, Astrantia minor, which can tolerate slightly more acidic conditions. It flowers from mid-June to the middle of September.
Its territory in Europe extends from as far north as Sweden and to the south and east to include the Alps in Austria and Switerland, and the Julian Alps in Slovenia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This low-growing sea daisy forms dense patches of colour along cliff tops and beside coastal paths.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit originated in Central America. Also called pitaya fruit, this plant has been cultivated since the 13th century. Dragon fruit, like other cactus, needs warm growing conditions. When pitaya matures, it makes an excellent eating fruit or component for wine and flavorings. When consumed in fresh or dried form dragon fruit provides carotene, digestive fiber, protein, phosphorus, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 and Vitamin C.
Step 1
Choose your plant. Dragon fruit can grow from seeds, but many people prefer a seedling so the cactus grows more quickly. Obtain the seedling from a reliable nursery. Those that sell cactus are the most likely to offer dragon fruit.
Step 2
Place some rocks in the bottom of a pot that's at least 2 feet deep and wide, followed by a 2-inch covering of sand for good drainage. Position a trellis in the middle and pour in good potting soil to hold it in place. Push the seedling down into the dirt so just the very top peeks through the soil.
Step 3
Add water to the soil. It should feel damp but not soggy. Dragon fruit is susceptible to root rot. Also, as a succulent it naturally holds a lot of water so you don't need to keep it overly wet.
Step 4
Cover the pot using a piece of clear food storage plastic with tiny holes poked through. A toothpick works nicely. Move the pot to a partly sunny window or in front of a grow light. Dragon fruit requires about 4 hours of direct sun daily, followed by partial light for another 4.
Step 5
Adjust the temperature of the room in which your dragon fruit grows. They like it around 100 degrees F. A heat lamp can provide the temperature desired.
Step 6
Move the seedling deeper in the soil. After about two weeks, the seedling should be about 3 inches tall. It's now ready to move further down into the soil so it doesn't become root-bound. Move it carefully, gently shaking the roots to move it out and then replacing it in the pot, leaving about 1 inch out of the soil. When the plant grows about 6 inches, tie it to the trellis for security. Your plant should begin flowering in about six to eight months.
Step 7
Get fruit by pairing Hylocereus undatus and Hylocerus polyrhizus seedlings and cross-pollinate them. Wait for the flowers of both to open, usually at night, then gather pollen from anthers of both plants with a cotton swab, transferring it to the stigma of the other plant. You've just done the work of bees and other pollinators.
Step 8
Once fruit develops, watch for signs of ripeness before picking the fruit. The skin will appear yellow or red instead of green, the fruit will easily release from the tree, a rich fruity aroma will emit from the dragon fruit, and the fruit will feel tender when squeezed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a fungus that plagues almost all gardeners. No matter what conditions you live in or how well you tend your garden, chances are you will come across powdery mildew at some point in time. Finding a cure for powdery mildew is something that all gardeners look for eventually. How to Treat Powdery Mildew The first step in how to treat powdery mildew is to remove the conditions in which powdery mildew flourishes. Try to buy resistant plants – Some plants and varieties are more susceptible to powdery mildew than others. Look for varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew fungus. Plant susceptible plants in full sun – Full sun will help keep powdery mildew fungus off plants that are prone to the mildew. Water from below – Use drip lines or hoses to water your plants. Watering from above with sprinklers makes can encourage powdery mildew to grow. Increase air circulation – Try removing some of the vegetation on the plant to increase air flow around the plant. This will help keep powdery mildew at bay. Buy only high quality plants – Unhealthy plants are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Buy only healthy plants.
Powdery Mildew Remedies
Because powder mildew is so widespread, powdery mildew remedies are common garden remedies sold in the garden centers. The following is a list of fungicides that can treat powdery mildew: Triadimefon Triforine Thiophanate-methyl Propiconazole Sulfur Potassium bicarbonate The above list will treat powdery mildew but not all are acceptable for plants you plant to eat. For example, Triforine should only be used on ornamental plants as it is not healthy for consumption. Check to make sure your treatment is a powdery mildew non toxic fungicide if you plan to use it on an edible plant.
Combine Both Environment and Chemicals for a Powdery Mildew Cure
For a complete powdery mildew cure, combine addressing the conditions that cause powdery mildew and use the chemicals that are a cure for powdery mildew. This will take the powdery mildew out of your garden and keep it out for good.
Powdery Mildew Remedies
Because powder mildew is so widespread, powdery mildew remedies are common garden remedies sold in the garden centers. The following is a list of fungicides that can treat powdery mildew: Triadimefon Triforine Thiophanate-methyl Propiconazole Sulfur Potassium bicarbonate The above list will treat powdery mildew but not all are acceptable for plants you plant to eat. For example, Triforine should only be used on ornamental plants as it is not healthy for consumption. Check to make sure your treatment is a powdery mildew non toxic fungicide if you plan to use it on an edible plant.
Combine Both Environment and Chemicals for a Powdery Mildew Cure
For a complete powdery mildew cure, combine addressing the conditions that cause powdery mildew and use the chemicals that are a cure for powdery mildew. This will take the powdery mildew out of your garden and keep it out for good.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Unlike other indoor plants, cactus can live for generations when properly cared for. If your indoor cactus looks wilted or shriveled up and needs reviving don't despair. Cacti are hardy plants accustomed to harsh conditions and periods of neglect or no water. Although exact the methods of reviving your cactus will vary based upon your exact type of cactus and its current condition, you can bring life back to your indoor cactus by checking for — and fixing — a few common cactus-growing mistakes.
Step 1
Inspect the roots of the cactus by gently removing it from the soil. Healthy roots look white and fleshy. If the roots are brown and mushy the plant is suffering from root rot. Cut off the damaged roots with a sharp knife.
Step 2
Repot the cactus in a slightly larger pot than before, with well-draining potting mix specifically for succulents. If you don't have succulent mix, you can combine 1 part sand with 2 parts traditional potting soil instead.
Step
Water the soil until the top 1 inch of soil feels moist but not soggy. Keep in mind that cactus needs brief dry spells in between watering. If the plant receives too little the leaves may shrivel up. Too much water may cause the plant to go limp.
Step 4
Place the cactus in a location that received bright indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight may burn your cactus.
Step 5
Position plants away from drafts such as from vents or windows. Stressed plants may become shocked from hot or cold drafts from vents. Although your plant may do well with some brief exposure to outside air, it may also expose the plant to insects.
Step 6
Fertilize the cactus monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer during the plant's non-blooming months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are adapted to drought and extreme temperatures. One of the adaptations that allows them to survive their native desert conditions is slow growth. Saguaro cacti, for example, grow only 1 inch in the first eight years of life. These massive plants are usually 35 years old before they produce flowers, and at least 75 years old before they produce side arms.
Seed
Growing cactus from seed is an exercise in patience since the seeds may take up to a year to germinate. Once the seeds begin growing, it may be at least two or three years before the plant flowers. Sow the seeds in a sandy potting mix and keep the soil at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the seed tray with plastic wrap to conserve moisture and warmth. Keep them in the starting tray until the plant stands 2 to 4 inches high, which may take up to two years.
Nursery Plants
Many nurseries and garden centers sell small cacti as houseplants. These plants grow very slowly and can remain in the same pot for two or three years. The plants grow during the spring and summer, followed by a dormant period in the fall and winter.
Care
To encourage reasonable growth, plant your cactus in a shallow pot with a coarse sand and soil mixture or a potting mix made specifically for cacti. Place the cactus outdoors in full sun during the summer, but bring it indoors in the winter. Water it every two weeks or so during hot weather. Provide water in the winter every three to four weeks. Cacti are prone to root rots and fungal diseases in damp conditions. Gradually move the plant each spring and fall to help it acclimate to its new surroundings. Moving it abruptly outdoors after a winter inside may scorch the plant.
Variety
Cacti vary in their growth rate, depending on the species. Try Christmas cactus, golden barrel or fire barrel cactus as houseplants. Other succulent plants that are often classified as a cactus, such as aloe, agave and sedums, may grow more quickly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves that store water. Some varieties flower while others only produce attractive foliage and stems. Most succulents thrive in dry conditions because too much moisture can cause the plants to rot. Rocky soil that drains quickly works well for most succulent varieties. You can grow them indoors in a dish filled with gravel, which provides adequate moisture drainage, although some soil is still necessary to provide nutrients and a medium for the succulent roots.
Step 1
Fill a 3- to 5-inch-deep pot or dish with a one inch layer of gravel. Use a dish with no bottom drainage holes.
Step 2
Sprinkle a tablespoon of powdered activated charcoal over the top of the gravel layer. Charcoal prevents odors from developing in the moisture trapped within the the gravel layer.
Step 3
Place a peat-based potting soil on top the gravel, filling the dish to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Alternatively, make your own mix by combining two parts peat with one part compost.
Step 4
Water the soil layer until it is evenly moistened throughout. Stick your finger into the soil mixture to judge the moisture level.
Step 5
Plant the succulents in the potting soil. Set them so their roots are buried to the same depth. Spacing requirements depend on the specific plant type, but generally a 2- to 4-inch spacing is sufficient.
Step 6
Water the succulents when the potting soil layer is completely dry. Provide only enough moisture to slightly dampen the soil. The excess moisture drains into the gravel bed beneath the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Agave plants are succulents that feature thick, water-filled leaves. They thrive in dry, hot conditions and can live for long periods without water. If the weather is too harsh, agave plants becomes dormant, shedding leaves until they take in water again. Agave plants can also suffer from a variety of diseases and pest infestations. Examining your agave plant's symptoms is the best way to determine the best treatment to nurse the plant back to health.
Freezing
Step 1
Examine the leaves of the agave plant for black areas. Freezing causes the agave leaves to turn black, eventually drying and falling off. Usually the agave plant recovers from external freeze damage when freezing temperatures only last a few hours.
Step 2
Transplant the agave near the house or in a patio area that receives warmth from the house. Carefully remove the agave plant from the soil using a garden shovel.
Step 3
Choose a well-drained area and plant the agave so that the agave tissue remains above the soil. Succulents planted too deeply cannot establish roots and eventually die.
Sun Damage
Step 4
Examine the agave for yellowing leaves and dropping leaves. Excessive sunlight causes these symptoms.
Step 5
Transplant the agave to an area with partial shade following the instructions in Section 1, Steps 2 and 3.
Step 6
Choose areas for transplanting where pine and oaks give partial shade or in an area protected from direct sunlight.
Anthracnose
Step 7
Examine your agave plant for orange or red spores or lesions on the leaves and leaf tops. Lesions form as a result of the spores. Wet weather is the cause of anthracnose, causing spores to spread over the plant from wind and rain.
Step 8
Remove the leaf and avoid watering the plant with a sprinkler if you find spores or lesions.
Step 9
Protect the agave from the rain with a plastic covering until the lesions disappear.
Helminthosporium
Step 10
Check for soft, dark spots on the upper area of your agave plant. A fungus from the Helminthosporium species forms spores that infect the agave when carried by wind and rain, resulting in leaf rotting.
Step 11
Apply fungicides to diminish the spread of the fungus by spraying both the upper and lower portions of the leaves. Spray fungicides around the agave base also.
Step 12
Remove excessively infected plants to prevent spreading the spores to other plants.
Insects
Step 13
Examine the agave plant for wilted or yellow, scarred leaves. Female weevils lay eggs inside the base of the plant, causing wilting leaves and plant collapse from surface wounds, while the agave plant bug causes yellow leaves.
Step 14
Apply broad-spectrum insecticides in the spring to control the agave weevil and plant bugs.
Step 15
Spray the insecticides around the plant base to thoroughly destroy any weevils living in the soil. Spray the insecticide on the upper and lower surfaces of all leaves to prevent agave bug plant infestation.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow cauliflower in containers in this article. Growing cauliflowers in containers is not very difficult if you know its proper requirements and ideal growing conditions.
However, cauliflower is a cool season crop but there are many hybrid cultivars available for both temperate and tropical weather, which means it can be grown diversely in a variety of climates.
How to Grow Cauliflower in ContainersPlanting cauliflower in containers
It is important to plant the variety that fits the season and climate you are living in. Cauliflowers can be planted anytime in frost free climate when the temperature is in the range of 50-85 F (10 C to 30 C). At the time when heads are maturing, the ideal temperature is around 60-70 F (15-20 C).
Generally, in warmer regions (USDA Zone 9 – 11), you can start to sow cauliflower seeds in fall and continue to sow the seeds until the end of winter. In cooler zones, it is better to sow the seeds until late winter and up to spring to get summer or fall harvest.
Propagation
Sowing, transplanting, and planting is same as for the cabbages. Sow the seeds in a seed starting mix, 1 or 2 cm deep and 4 cm apart. Once the seedlings germinated and plants have 3 or 4 leaves, you can start growing cauliflower in containers.
Choosing a Container
Choose a pot that is 12 inches deep and at least 10 inches wide to allow enough room for a plant to grow. Also, make sure it has enough drainage holes in the bottom. In such a pot you can grow one plant.
You can also grow 2-3 cauliflower plants together in large buckets, half whiskey barrels and even in sacks.
Requirements for Growing Cauliflower in Containers
Position
Prefer to keep the pot in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 hours of sun. In tropics, grow the plant in a partial sun.
Soil
Like all brassicas, cauliflowers are quite demanding on the soil. Fill the pot with a quality potting soil that is light, deep, humus-rich and slightly clayey. As cauliflower grows best in moist soil choose the substrate that holds some moisture but also drains well.
Watering
Because growing cauliflower requires moist soil, you’ll need to water it regularly. It is important to prevent the drying of the soil in the period when the seedling is maturing and at the time of head formation. Drought-like conditions lead to the formation of smaller or separate heads or even to a complete loss of them. Overwatering also impede its growth, which must be avoided.
Cauliflower Plant Care
When the head or flower (curd) of cauliflower becomes 2-3 inches in diameter (this is unnecessary for colored varieties), cover it with the inner leaves by breaking or tying them over the head. It is called blanching. This will protect the head from the sun and you’ll get healthy white colored and more flavorsome cauliflower after harvest.
Fertilizer
Cauliflower plant is a heavy feeder. You can mix compost or well-rotted manure into the soil at the time of planting. Besides this, fertilize it with 10-10-10 water soluble fertilizer monthly.
Mulching
Mulching can be skipped when you’re growing cauliflower in containers. But you can do it to keep the soil cool and preserve moisture in the soil. In winter, mulching will keep the soil warm and insulate the roots from cold.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that damage the leaves, such as flea beetles, the larva of cabbage butterfly and moths love to feed on this plant. It can also be attacked by aphids and white flies.
In diseases, it is infected by clubroot, which can be checked if quality soil is used. It also gets affected by powdery mildew. To prevent it, avoid wetting the foliage.
Harvesting
The harvesting of cauliflower takes place virtually throughout the year, depending on the variety and sowing period. Generally, harvesting takes place about 3-4 months after planting.
You can check if cauliflower is ready for harvest when the head (curd) is fully developed (6 to 12 inches in diameter, depending on the variety) and still compact. Once the blanching is done you can harvest the cauliflower in 7-12 days.
Things to RememberCauliflower heads (flowers) become ready for harvest in 3-5 months.Cauliflower requires moderate temperature, around 60 – 75 F is ideal.Too high or too cold temperature leads to premature heading.Cauliflower requires constant nutrient supply and slightly moist soil with ideal pH around 6.5-6.8.Right watering is the key to growing cauliflowers. For the best result, water carefully. Both underwatering or overwatering must be avoided.
However, cauliflower is a cool season crop but there are many hybrid cultivars available for both temperate and tropical weather, which means it can be grown diversely in a variety of climates.
How to Grow Cauliflower in ContainersPlanting cauliflower in containers
It is important to plant the variety that fits the season and climate you are living in. Cauliflowers can be planted anytime in frost free climate when the temperature is in the range of 50-85 F (10 C to 30 C). At the time when heads are maturing, the ideal temperature is around 60-70 F (15-20 C).
Generally, in warmer regions (USDA Zone 9 – 11), you can start to sow cauliflower seeds in fall and continue to sow the seeds until the end of winter. In cooler zones, it is better to sow the seeds until late winter and up to spring to get summer or fall harvest.
Propagation
Sowing, transplanting, and planting is same as for the cabbages. Sow the seeds in a seed starting mix, 1 or 2 cm deep and 4 cm apart. Once the seedlings germinated and plants have 3 or 4 leaves, you can start growing cauliflower in containers.
Choosing a Container
Choose a pot that is 12 inches deep and at least 10 inches wide to allow enough room for a plant to grow. Also, make sure it has enough drainage holes in the bottom. In such a pot you can grow one plant.
You can also grow 2-3 cauliflower plants together in large buckets, half whiskey barrels and even in sacks.
Requirements for Growing Cauliflower in Containers
Position
Prefer to keep the pot in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 hours of sun. In tropics, grow the plant in a partial sun.
Soil
Like all brassicas, cauliflowers are quite demanding on the soil. Fill the pot with a quality potting soil that is light, deep, humus-rich and slightly clayey. As cauliflower grows best in moist soil choose the substrate that holds some moisture but also drains well.
Watering
Because growing cauliflower requires moist soil, you’ll need to water it regularly. It is important to prevent the drying of the soil in the period when the seedling is maturing and at the time of head formation. Drought-like conditions lead to the formation of smaller or separate heads or even to a complete loss of them. Overwatering also impede its growth, which must be avoided.
Cauliflower Plant Care
When the head or flower (curd) of cauliflower becomes 2-3 inches in diameter (this is unnecessary for colored varieties), cover it with the inner leaves by breaking or tying them over the head. It is called blanching. This will protect the head from the sun and you’ll get healthy white colored and more flavorsome cauliflower after harvest.
Fertilizer
Cauliflower plant is a heavy feeder. You can mix compost or well-rotted manure into the soil at the time of planting. Besides this, fertilize it with 10-10-10 water soluble fertilizer monthly.
Mulching
Mulching can be skipped when you’re growing cauliflower in containers. But you can do it to keep the soil cool and preserve moisture in the soil. In winter, mulching will keep the soil warm and insulate the roots from cold.
Pests and Diseases
Pests that damage the leaves, such as flea beetles, the larva of cabbage butterfly and moths love to feed on this plant. It can also be attacked by aphids and white flies.
In diseases, it is infected by clubroot, which can be checked if quality soil is used. It also gets affected by powdery mildew. To prevent it, avoid wetting the foliage.
Harvesting
The harvesting of cauliflower takes place virtually throughout the year, depending on the variety and sowing period. Generally, harvesting takes place about 3-4 months after planting.
You can check if cauliflower is ready for harvest when the head (curd) is fully developed (6 to 12 inches in diameter, depending on the variety) and still compact. Once the blanching is done you can harvest the cauliflower in 7-12 days.
Things to RememberCauliflower heads (flowers) become ready for harvest in 3-5 months.Cauliflower requires moderate temperature, around 60 – 75 F is ideal.Too high or too cold temperature leads to premature heading.Cauliflower requires constant nutrient supply and slightly moist soil with ideal pH around 6.5-6.8.Right watering is the key to growing cauliflowers. For the best result, water carefully. Both underwatering or overwatering must be avoided.
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