文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Strawberries left to sit on the ground to grow often end up rotting or riddled with insects. When heavy rains come and puddle in the strawberry patch, the wet conditions invite mold to grow on the strawberry fruit. If you want your strawberries to remain bug- and mold-free during the growing and ripening seasons, you have to keep them off the ground. You don't have to worry about this until the plants actually start producing fruit, at which point the weight of the fruit will cause the berry to hang down to the ground.
Step 1
Cover the area where you want to grow your strawberries using black landscaping cloth. Use a shovel to line the edges of the cloth with dirt to keep it from blowing around.
Step 2
Cut an "x" in the landscaping cloth wherever you want to plant a strawberry plant. Use a carpet knife to cut the x's. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart.
Step 3
Plant the strawberries by opening the flaps of each of the x's and digging a small hole with a garden spade. Dig a hole deep enough and wide enough to keep the roots of the plant from getting crowded. Fold the flaps down around the stems of the plants after planting.
Step 4
Water and watch the plants produce fruit. As the plants grow and produce fruit, the heavier fruit will settle down on the landscaping cloth above the ground. The cloth allows for proper water drainage and acts as a barrier to keep troublesome insects from eating the strawberries.
Step 1
Cover the area where you want to grow your strawberries using black landscaping cloth. Use a shovel to line the edges of the cloth with dirt to keep it from blowing around.
Step 2
Cut an "x" in the landscaping cloth wherever you want to plant a strawberry plant. Use a carpet knife to cut the x's. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart.
Step 3
Plant the strawberries by opening the flaps of each of the x's and digging a small hole with a garden spade. Dig a hole deep enough and wide enough to keep the roots of the plant from getting crowded. Fold the flaps down around the stems of the plants after planting.
Step 4
Water and watch the plants produce fruit. As the plants grow and produce fruit, the heavier fruit will settle down on the landscaping cloth above the ground. The cloth allows for proper water drainage and acts as a barrier to keep troublesome insects from eating the strawberries.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月08日
The brilliant flowers of asters brighten the fall garden when little else is blooming. Indeed, "aster," the Latin word for "star," aptly describes the starry flower heads.
About asters
Aster thrives under a wide range of conditions. Plant height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on variety. Tall varieties make good back-of-the-border plants and are also attractive planted in naturalized meadows.
Special features of asters
Attracts butterflies.
Choosing a site to grow asters
Dependent on species. Some prefer full sun, others require shade. Some types of asters grow in wetlands, others are suitable for xeriscaping.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Highly variable, but most asters are carefree.
About asters
Aster thrives under a wide range of conditions. Plant height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on variety. Tall varieties make good back-of-the-border plants and are also attractive planted in naturalized meadows.
Special features of asters
Attracts butterflies.
Choosing a site to grow asters
Dependent on species. Some prefer full sun, others require shade. Some types of asters grow in wetlands, others are suitable for xeriscaping.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Ongoing Care
Highly variable, but most asters are carefree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
The healing power of Aloe vera has been embraced since ancient times. In traditional Indian medicine, it has a history of use for skin conditions and infections, among a plethora of other ailments, while in China, it is employed to combat fungal diseases. In the West, it is known that Aloe vera cannot be beat to ease the pain of a nasty sunburn.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
The healing power of Aloe vera has been embraced since ancient times. In traditional Indian medicine, it has a history of use for skin conditions and infections, among a plethora of other ailments, while in China, it is employed to combat fungal diseases. In the West, it is known that Aloe vera cannot be beat to ease the pain of a nasty sunburn.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips are one of the most popular flowers around according to sunbulb.com. They are a bulbous plant, which means they have underground storage organs that allow them to survive difficult weather conditions. Florida has a favorable climate for many bulbous plants, but not necessarily tulips because they need cold weather. According to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, Florida is in Zones 8, 10 and 11. This means the average annual minimum temperature does not dip below 15 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on your location. You can still plant tulips in Florida by following some specific instructions.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
Step 1
Buy the bulbs you want to plant at least eight weeks before planting. Use the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone Map to determine what zone in Florida you live. If you live in zone 8, you should plant in November to early December and if you live in zone 10, you should plant in late December to early January. If you live in zone 11, your minimum temperature is not low enough for tulips to grow well. Darwin Hybrids and Single late variety tulips work better with mild winters.
Step 2
Place the bulbs in a paper bag and put them in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before you plan to plant the bulbs. Make sure they are not near any ripening fruits which emit a gas that can destroy the flower bud.
Step 3
Prepare the soil where you will plant the tulip bulbs. Bulbs will do best in a sunny location, so try to avoid any shady spots. Till the soil and lay three to four inches of an organic material. You can use peat, compost or well-rotten manure. Make sure the soil has good drainage. If it does not, build up raised flower beds so it will drain.
Step 4
Refer to the USDA Climate Hardiness Zone map again to see when you should plant. Tulips will grow best in Northern Florida, from Pensacola to Jacksonville and south to Ocala, according to University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
Step 5
Dig holes with a small shovel or trowel and plant tulip bulbs five inches deep and eight inches apart. Cover them back up with the soil.
Step 6
Lay a two inch layer of mulch over the soil when you plant to prevent any weeds. If weeds do come up, pull them as soon as possible.
Step 7
Water the soil enough to keep it moderately moist until the end of the growing period. Tulips bloom sometime in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Blooming orchids look so ethereal that it’s hard to believe you can grow them inside your home. For success, choose the right one for your conditions, then watch them flourish.
Selecting
Look beyond the pretty face when deciding which orchid to grow indoors. First, assess the growing conditions you can offer an orchid, and make your choice from there. Light, temperature, humidity, your watering tendencies, and fertilizing all play a role in growing orchids.
Light Requirements
The single most important variable when growing orchids indoors is light. Orchids that prefer high light — unobstructed sunlight, streaming through a clear, south-facing window or into a greenhouse for 6 to 8 hours — include Vandas and Angraecums.
Medium-high light orchids, such as Phragmipediums, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums, grow in locations that are bright but not directly sunny. Eastern and western exposures are often medium-high light locations, although a western exposure may be warmer. The light intensity is the same, but the air temperature has increased.
Medium-low light is appropriate for Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids) and Paphiopedilums. It may be an east- or west-facing window with no direct sun. It may also be an open northern exposure with no obstructions and some additional reflected light.
Low light is usually a limited northern exposure or any exposure where the light is blocked by an overhang, trees, or neighboring buildings. Jewel Orchids grow in low light.
Temperature
Generally, orchids can be grouped into three temperature categories: cool, warm, and intermediate. Buy a high-low thermometer to measure the temperature range in your orchid location. After that, choosing a suitable orchid is simple. As with light, some orchids easily adapt to more than one temperature range.
Humidity
Most orchids we grow indoors come from the tropics, and most parts of the tropics are much more humid than the average living room. Orchids grow better if you can boost the humidity in their immediate growing area by grouping your plants together, or placing them on a dry well. Create a dry well by placing plastic lattice or pebbles on a tray, then adding water to just below the lattice or top of the pebbles. Place your potted plants on top of the lattice or pebbles.
Watering
Anyone who has ever watered an orchid knows that most of what you pour in runs out almost immediately through the bottom of the pot. Because orchids are potted in bark mix rather than potting soil, they need to be watered differently.
The goal is to get each mix particle to absorb as much water as possible. To give the potting mix enough time to absorb water, place the entire pot in a bowl of water for 10 to 15 minutes, then lift it out and let the excess water drain before putting the pot back in place. This technique works well for orchids potted in clay. Since clay is porous, water penetrates the walls of the pot and is absorbed by the bark.
If your orchid is potted in plastic, place it in an empty bowl, then add water. If you place the plastic pot in an already full bowl of water, the water will push the bark up and out, floating it away from the orchid roots. In this case, add water to just below the lip of the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain and return the orchid pot to its place.
If an orchid is potted in long-grain sphagnum moss or soilless mix, you can water until water runs out into the saucer below. However, sphagnum moss may feel dry on its surface while the interior may still be moist. Stick your finger an inch or two down into the moss to feel whether it’s truly dry.
How frequently you water your orchid depends on:
The kind of orchid: Is it drought-resistant or not?
The kind of pot: Porous pots dry out faster than nonporous pots.
The kind of potting mix: Sphagnum moss needs water less frequently than bark mix.
The air temperature: Plants dry out faster in warmer temperatures.
The humidity: Plants dry out faster in drier air.
The light: Plants growing in higher light need more water.
In general, water drought-tolerant orchids, such as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums once a week.
Water most others, such as Miltonias, Paphiopedilums, and Phragmipediums every 4 to 5 days. Start there, and adjust up or down according to the conditions in your home.
Water orchids thoroughly each time, then let them dry out before watering again.
Fertilizing
Most orchids are not heavy feeders. Many orchids bloom year after year with no fertilizer at all. During active growth, when new leaves are being produced, you may fertilize every other time you water at half the strength recommended on the fertilizer package. However, it’s important to deliver water without fertilizer at least once a month to flush excess fertilizer salts from the bark mix and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots.
Selecting
Look beyond the pretty face when deciding which orchid to grow indoors. First, assess the growing conditions you can offer an orchid, and make your choice from there. Light, temperature, humidity, your watering tendencies, and fertilizing all play a role in growing orchids.
Light Requirements
The single most important variable when growing orchids indoors is light. Orchids that prefer high light — unobstructed sunlight, streaming through a clear, south-facing window or into a greenhouse for 6 to 8 hours — include Vandas and Angraecums.
Medium-high light orchids, such as Phragmipediums, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums, grow in locations that are bright but not directly sunny. Eastern and western exposures are often medium-high light locations, although a western exposure may be warmer. The light intensity is the same, but the air temperature has increased.
Medium-low light is appropriate for Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids) and Paphiopedilums. It may be an east- or west-facing window with no direct sun. It may also be an open northern exposure with no obstructions and some additional reflected light.
Low light is usually a limited northern exposure or any exposure where the light is blocked by an overhang, trees, or neighboring buildings. Jewel Orchids grow in low light.
Temperature
Generally, orchids can be grouped into three temperature categories: cool, warm, and intermediate. Buy a high-low thermometer to measure the temperature range in your orchid location. After that, choosing a suitable orchid is simple. As with light, some orchids easily adapt to more than one temperature range.
Humidity
Most orchids we grow indoors come from the tropics, and most parts of the tropics are much more humid than the average living room. Orchids grow better if you can boost the humidity in their immediate growing area by grouping your plants together, or placing them on a dry well. Create a dry well by placing plastic lattice or pebbles on a tray, then adding water to just below the lattice or top of the pebbles. Place your potted plants on top of the lattice or pebbles.
Watering
Anyone who has ever watered an orchid knows that most of what you pour in runs out almost immediately through the bottom of the pot. Because orchids are potted in bark mix rather than potting soil, they need to be watered differently.
The goal is to get each mix particle to absorb as much water as possible. To give the potting mix enough time to absorb water, place the entire pot in a bowl of water for 10 to 15 minutes, then lift it out and let the excess water drain before putting the pot back in place. This technique works well for orchids potted in clay. Since clay is porous, water penetrates the walls of the pot and is absorbed by the bark.
If your orchid is potted in plastic, place it in an empty bowl, then add water. If you place the plastic pot in an already full bowl of water, the water will push the bark up and out, floating it away from the orchid roots. In this case, add water to just below the lip of the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain and return the orchid pot to its place.
If an orchid is potted in long-grain sphagnum moss or soilless mix, you can water until water runs out into the saucer below. However, sphagnum moss may feel dry on its surface while the interior may still be moist. Stick your finger an inch or two down into the moss to feel whether it’s truly dry.
How frequently you water your orchid depends on:
The kind of orchid: Is it drought-resistant or not?
The kind of pot: Porous pots dry out faster than nonporous pots.
The kind of potting mix: Sphagnum moss needs water less frequently than bark mix.
The air temperature: Plants dry out faster in warmer temperatures.
The humidity: Plants dry out faster in drier air.
The light: Plants growing in higher light need more water.
In general, water drought-tolerant orchids, such as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums once a week.
Water most others, such as Miltonias, Paphiopedilums, and Phragmipediums every 4 to 5 days. Start there, and adjust up or down according to the conditions in your home.
Water orchids thoroughly each time, then let them dry out before watering again.
Fertilizing
Most orchids are not heavy feeders. Many orchids bloom year after year with no fertilizer at all. During active growth, when new leaves are being produced, you may fertilize every other time you water at half the strength recommended on the fertilizer package. However, it’s important to deliver water without fertilizer at least once a month to flush excess fertilizer salts from the bark mix and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Catharanthus roseus, also known as Madagascar Periwinkle is a pretty blooming plant with delicate pink-white flowers that bloom throughout the summer, even under drought and low-water conditions. This perennial Madagascar native thrives in the summer heat of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and does not tolerate frost. The plant is easy to grow and self-cleaning, making for practically care-free blooming until Thanksgiving in warm regions.
Madagascar Periwinkle is native to Madagascar but is cultivated and naturalized in most of the tropical world and in warmer climates in the United States. It can be found in a variety of woodland, forest and grassland locales, but one of its primary uses is a bedding plant in highway medians or commercial landscapes.
Madagascar Periwinkle also makes a striking clumping plant for home gardens as ground cover, in beddings or edgings or in containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unlike many other plants, Madagascar Periwinkle is best suited for poor, well-drained soil and may even fail to thrive in soils that are too fertile. These plants need regular moisture but don’t do well with overhead watering.
Madagascar Periwinkle is easily propagated with semi-ripe cuttings planted in light compost with bottom heat and high humidity, or by seeds kept in the dark at 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 25 degrees Celsius) until germination.
The leaves may curl during the heat of the day but recover with evening dew. The flowers drop off after blooming and don’t require deadheading.
Madagascar Periwinkle is generally resistant to serious outbreaks of diseases and pests. Stem rot, leaf spots, wilts and aster yellows are some of the more common pathogens. Typical pest infestations come from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. Diseases, which usually present as discolorations or spots, can be controlled by using certified disease-free plants and avoiding overwatering. Pests can be prevented by avoiding high levels of nitrogen fertilizer and the overuse of pesticides that also kill beneficial insects.
Madagascar Periwinkle is native to Madagascar but is cultivated and naturalized in most of the tropical world and in warmer climates in the United States. It can be found in a variety of woodland, forest and grassland locales, but one of its primary uses is a bedding plant in highway medians or commercial landscapes.
Madagascar Periwinkle also makes a striking clumping plant for home gardens as ground cover, in beddings or edgings or in containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unlike many other plants, Madagascar Periwinkle is best suited for poor, well-drained soil and may even fail to thrive in soils that are too fertile. These plants need regular moisture but don’t do well with overhead watering.
Madagascar Periwinkle is easily propagated with semi-ripe cuttings planted in light compost with bottom heat and high humidity, or by seeds kept in the dark at 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 25 degrees Celsius) until germination.
The leaves may curl during the heat of the day but recover with evening dew. The flowers drop off after blooming and don’t require deadheading.
Madagascar Periwinkle is generally resistant to serious outbreaks of diseases and pests. Stem rot, leaf spots, wilts and aster yellows are some of the more common pathogens. Typical pest infestations come from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. Diseases, which usually present as discolorations or spots, can be controlled by using certified disease-free plants and avoiding overwatering. Pests can be prevented by avoiding high levels of nitrogen fertilizer and the overuse of pesticides that also kill beneficial insects.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
While these notes focus on pests and diseases of cacti and succulents, incorrect cultural conditions are a major cause of poor growth or loss of house plants in general. The single commonest cultural problem is over-watering, with the roots left wet for excessively long periods resulting in rotting. Other growth problems are related to insufficient light and too low or high a temperature. Most cacti and succulents are expected to flower when they reach the mature size, or even before, and failure to flower may indicate unsatisfactory growing conditions.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A range of fungal and bacterial diseases affect succulent plants, some of which can collapse and die very rapidly, once the disease has taken a hold. The world abounds with fungal spores, which are opportunists, waiting for the correct conditions for germination. Generally, fungi do not affect cactus and succulent plant collections because of the relatively dry conditions used by most growers. Damp conditions are a universal requirement for activation of fungal spores, and many of the problems with fungal infection of succulent plants arise from failure of excessive watering or condensation to evaporate, because of unexpected or seasonal cold weather. Damage from insect pests, which penetrate the plant's epidermis to feed on sap, may provide a route for entry of fungi into the nutrient-rich inner tissues. Hence, unexpected collapse of a plant is often the final symptom of a mealy bug infestation which has gone unnoticed. On the other hand, some fungi provide their own mechanisms for penetrating the epidermis.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Ever have one of those days when you feel a little sluggish and bloated? Well, your plants can have the same problem — they retain water just like people do when conditions are not right. Edema in plants is not a serious disease and it’s not a symptom of a bacteria, virus or insect infestation. Common causes of plant edema include over watering and improper fertilization; it’s easily curable if caught early.
What is Edema?
Edema, or oedema, is a type of abnormal water retention in plants, often influenced by the plant’s environment. Favorable conditions actually encourage edema in many cases, since affected plants already have a fair amount of water in their systems, providing them with more can just encourage them to gorge on liquid. Any time the plant takes up water faster than it transpires, edema becomes a risk. Signs of edema plant disease vary between susceptible species, but often include bumps, blisters or water-soaked areas on the undersides of leaves. These areas may expand and become corky, but in other plants, curling and distortion are common. White, crusty eruptions may form along the leaf veins or gall-like structures can develop under leaves with yellow corresponding spots on the upper leaf surface.
Treating Edema
Because it’s not a disease, there are many ways to treat edema, depending on the cause. Your job as gardener is to figure out what’s causing your plant’s problem and correct the situation. If your plant has edema, first adjust your watering habits. Most plants should never sit in water, so remove those saucers and make sure that big pots are draining well. Roots tend to absorb water faster when the water is warm and the atmosphere is cool, so wait to water until the sun is up in the morning whenever possible. Indoors, humidity can have a considerable influence on edema; improving air circulation around plants will help reduce humidity into safer ranges.
Increasing the light intensity is helpful for many plants with edema, but be sure not to cook them by moving them too quickly into brighter light. Make these changes gradually, over the course of a week or two, slowly leaving the plant in brighter light for an increasing length of time, until it no longer wilts in response to the sun. Lastly, make sure you’re fertilizing your plant properly. Plants with low available potassium and calcium can be more susceptible to edema. If cultural conditions seem correct for your plant, a soil test may be needed. Adjusting the pH can make more nutrients available, or you may need to add more of the nutrients that are lacking.
What is Edema?
Edema, or oedema, is a type of abnormal water retention in plants, often influenced by the plant’s environment. Favorable conditions actually encourage edema in many cases, since affected plants already have a fair amount of water in their systems, providing them with more can just encourage them to gorge on liquid. Any time the plant takes up water faster than it transpires, edema becomes a risk. Signs of edema plant disease vary between susceptible species, but often include bumps, blisters or water-soaked areas on the undersides of leaves. These areas may expand and become corky, but in other plants, curling and distortion are common. White, crusty eruptions may form along the leaf veins or gall-like structures can develop under leaves with yellow corresponding spots on the upper leaf surface.
Treating Edema
Because it’s not a disease, there are many ways to treat edema, depending on the cause. Your job as gardener is to figure out what’s causing your plant’s problem and correct the situation. If your plant has edema, first adjust your watering habits. Most plants should never sit in water, so remove those saucers and make sure that big pots are draining well. Roots tend to absorb water faster when the water is warm and the atmosphere is cool, so wait to water until the sun is up in the morning whenever possible. Indoors, humidity can have a considerable influence on edema; improving air circulation around plants will help reduce humidity into safer ranges.
Increasing the light intensity is helpful for many plants with edema, but be sure not to cook them by moving them too quickly into brighter light. Make these changes gradually, over the course of a week or two, slowly leaving the plant in brighter light for an increasing length of time, until it no longer wilts in response to the sun. Lastly, make sure you’re fertilizing your plant properly. Plants with low available potassium and calcium can be more susceptible to edema. If cultural conditions seem correct for your plant, a soil test may be needed. Adjusting the pH can make more nutrients available, or you may need to add more of the nutrients that are lacking.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
There are lots of plants in the garden that we devote almost no thought to. For example, parasitic plants exist in a wide range of conditions and they’re rarely discussed. This article is about hemiparasitic plants and the damage they can do to your landscape or garden.
What is a Hemiparasitic Plant?
Photosynthesis is an important process for plants everywhere, or so most people think. Smart gardeners, however, know that there are parasitic plants out there that derive some or all of their nutrients by stealing them from other plants. Just like parasitic animals feed on the blood of other animals, parasitic plants do much the same thing.
There are two main types of plant parasites: hemiparasitic and holoparasitic. Hemiparasitic plants in gardens are of less concern than their holoparasitic counterparts. When looking at holoparasitic vs. hemiparasitic plants, the key distinguishing feature is how much of their nutrients are derived from other plants. Hemiparasitic plants photosynthesize, unlike holoparasitic plants, which do not.
However, that’s not the end of the most important hemiparasitic plant info gardeners need. Because these plants are still parasites, they do utilize other plants to survive. By attaching to their host plants’ xylem, hemiparasitic plants are able to steal water and valuable minerals.
Root hemiparasites are harder to detect, since they attach to their hosts below ground, but stem hemiparasites are obvious because they attach to the host’s trunk. Some root hemiparasites are able to complete their life cycles without a host, but all stem hemiparasites need a host to survive.
Examples of hemiparasitic plants include:
Mistletoe
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album)
Velvetbells (Bartsia alpina)
Rattle plants (Rhinanthus) Indian paintbrush
Most of these plants look very much like freestanding agents, but they are, in fact, feeding off something nearby.
Do Hemiparasitic Plants Cause Damage?
Having parasites in the garden is obviously cause for alarm for many homeowners. After all, these plants are leaching important nutrients from somewhere – it could be beloved landscape plants. The truth is that it really depends on the plant and the condition of the host whether or not a hemiparasitic plant will cause considerable damage. Those that are already weakened or plants that are devoting all their resources to producing food will be hit much harder than healthy landscape plants.
The first sign of hemiparasitic plants is always the actual appearance of the plant in the garden, but if you’re unfamiliar with the parasite, it might seem like a harmless weed or wildflower. The host plant, no matter how healthy, will almost certainly show some subtle signals. For example, a lush green bush that has a hemiparasite may suddenly fade a little or need more feedings.
Always check for new plants in the garden before assuming your landscape is simply old or ill, as recovery could be as simple as killing the hemiparasite that’s making it difficult for your plant to get enough nutrients.
What is a Hemiparasitic Plant?
Photosynthesis is an important process for plants everywhere, or so most people think. Smart gardeners, however, know that there are parasitic plants out there that derive some or all of their nutrients by stealing them from other plants. Just like parasitic animals feed on the blood of other animals, parasitic plants do much the same thing.
There are two main types of plant parasites: hemiparasitic and holoparasitic. Hemiparasitic plants in gardens are of less concern than their holoparasitic counterparts. When looking at holoparasitic vs. hemiparasitic plants, the key distinguishing feature is how much of their nutrients are derived from other plants. Hemiparasitic plants photosynthesize, unlike holoparasitic plants, which do not.
However, that’s not the end of the most important hemiparasitic plant info gardeners need. Because these plants are still parasites, they do utilize other plants to survive. By attaching to their host plants’ xylem, hemiparasitic plants are able to steal water and valuable minerals.
Root hemiparasites are harder to detect, since they attach to their hosts below ground, but stem hemiparasites are obvious because they attach to the host’s trunk. Some root hemiparasites are able to complete their life cycles without a host, but all stem hemiparasites need a host to survive.
Examples of hemiparasitic plants include:
Mistletoe
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album)
Velvetbells (Bartsia alpina)
Rattle plants (Rhinanthus) Indian paintbrush
Most of these plants look very much like freestanding agents, but they are, in fact, feeding off something nearby.
Do Hemiparasitic Plants Cause Damage?
Having parasites in the garden is obviously cause for alarm for many homeowners. After all, these plants are leaching important nutrients from somewhere – it could be beloved landscape plants. The truth is that it really depends on the plant and the condition of the host whether or not a hemiparasitic plant will cause considerable damage. Those that are already weakened or plants that are devoting all their resources to producing food will be hit much harder than healthy landscape plants.
The first sign of hemiparasitic plants is always the actual appearance of the plant in the garden, but if you’re unfamiliar with the parasite, it might seem like a harmless weed or wildflower. The host plant, no matter how healthy, will almost certainly show some subtle signals. For example, a lush green bush that has a hemiparasite may suddenly fade a little or need more feedings.
Always check for new plants in the garden before assuming your landscape is simply old or ill, as recovery could be as simple as killing the hemiparasite that’s making it difficult for your plant to get enough nutrients.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
The Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia sp.) thrives in hot, dry desert areas, growing 3 to 20 feet (0.9 to 6 m) tall, depending on the variety and growing conditions. It spreads to cover 3 to 15 feet (0.9 to 4.5 m). The leaves and fruit are edible once the spines are removed. Leaf pads are eaten as a vegetable. Fruit are eaten raw and used to make juice, jelly and candy.
Prickly Pear Cactus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3b through 11. Once established, Prickly Pear Cactus are easy to care for and tolerate drought for two or three weeks.
Fill small pots or a seed tray with cactus soil. Break up any lumps in soil. Water the soil thoroughly and allow to drain.
Sow the seeds in the late spring when night temperatures consistently reach above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). Rub the Prickly Pear Cactus seeds against a piece of sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Scratched seeds germinate faster and more reliably than untreated seeds.
Plant one seed per pot or plant seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in seed trays. Press the seed into the soil and cover with a fine layer of soil, barely 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.
Mist the soil surface with a fine spray of water. Cover the tray with the plastic lid or put individual pots in plastic bags. Cut a small hole in the plastic to create a vent.
Place the pots or tray in a sunny window or under artificial lights. Check the soil daily for moisture and temperature. Ideal soil and air temperatures for prickly pear cactus is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If heat builds up under the plastic, move the container or open the vent further to release excess heat. Water the soil as needed with a fine mist, keeping the soil moist but not wet.
Inspect the seedlings daily. Cactus that turn yellow need more light. Brown or red cactus are receiving too much light.
Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outside once the roots are well-developed. Place the transplants in full sun spaced 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist for the first two weeks or until the plant has adjusted to its new location. Increase the time between watering once the cactus are established, allowing the soil to dry out slightly.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to encourage pad growth. If you prefer to encourage flowers and fruit, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 0-10-10.
Tips
Harvest Prickly Pear Cactus seeds from the ripe fruit of a Prickly Pear Cactus. Wash the seeds to remove all pulp, and dry them on a paper towel in a warm place for a week or two until completely dry. Store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dark place until ready to plant the following spring.
Warning
Prickly Pear Cactus earn their name. Wear gloves and handle the plants carefully, the spines are sharp and cause painful irritation.
Prickly Pear Cactus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3b through 11. Once established, Prickly Pear Cactus are easy to care for and tolerate drought for two or three weeks.
Fill small pots or a seed tray with cactus soil. Break up any lumps in soil. Water the soil thoroughly and allow to drain.
Sow the seeds in the late spring when night temperatures consistently reach above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). Rub the Prickly Pear Cactus seeds against a piece of sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Scratched seeds germinate faster and more reliably than untreated seeds.
Plant one seed per pot or plant seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in seed trays. Press the seed into the soil and cover with a fine layer of soil, barely 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.
Mist the soil surface with a fine spray of water. Cover the tray with the plastic lid or put individual pots in plastic bags. Cut a small hole in the plastic to create a vent.
Place the pots or tray in a sunny window or under artificial lights. Check the soil daily for moisture and temperature. Ideal soil and air temperatures for prickly pear cactus is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If heat builds up under the plastic, move the container or open the vent further to release excess heat. Water the soil as needed with a fine mist, keeping the soil moist but not wet.
Inspect the seedlings daily. Cactus that turn yellow need more light. Brown or red cactus are receiving too much light.
Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outside once the roots are well-developed. Place the transplants in full sun spaced 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist for the first two weeks or until the plant has adjusted to its new location. Increase the time between watering once the cactus are established, allowing the soil to dry out slightly.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to encourage pad growth. If you prefer to encourage flowers and fruit, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 0-10-10.
Tips
Harvest Prickly Pear Cactus seeds from the ripe fruit of a Prickly Pear Cactus. Wash the seeds to remove all pulp, and dry them on a paper towel in a warm place for a week or two until completely dry. Store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dark place until ready to plant the following spring.
Warning
Prickly Pear Cactus earn their name. Wear gloves and handle the plants carefully, the spines are sharp and cause painful irritation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Although a cactus plant prefers slightly cramped growing conditions in a container, there may come a time when it outgrows its pot and needs a larger one. When the cactus roots reach the edge of the container, you must repot a large cactus. With attention to detail and by following expert recommendations, you can give your cactus fresh soil in a larger container so it can continue to thrive.
Instructions
Choose a container that is only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the present container to ensure that you do not place the cactus in a pot that is too large. A cactus in a container too large may begin decaying because the soil will stay too wet. Fill the container approximately halfway with cactus potting soil.
Wear the leather gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the cactus. Loosen the cactus from the container by inserting the trowel gently around the perimeter of the container. Wrap the cactus with newspaper so you can grasp it and work
Transfer the cactus from the old container to the new container. Set the cactus into the container so the plant will be at the same depth as it was growing in the old container. Fill additional soil in around the roots of the cactus and firm the soil down gently to finish repotting it.
Place the repotted cactus into its regular growing location with direct sunlight. Do not water the cactus for two to three days after repotting.
Tips and Warnings
Repot a cactus in the spring before the plant begins growing actively again.
Install a stake in the new container at the time you repot if your large cactus requires support. Choose a stake that is as tall as the cactus and place it into the container as you place the cactus into the container. Fill soil around both the cactus roots and the stake then tie the stake to the cactus with stretchy plant ties.
Instructions
Choose a container that is only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the present container to ensure that you do not place the cactus in a pot that is too large. A cactus in a container too large may begin decaying because the soil will stay too wet. Fill the container approximately halfway with cactus potting soil.
Wear the leather gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the cactus. Loosen the cactus from the container by inserting the trowel gently around the perimeter of the container. Wrap the cactus with newspaper so you can grasp it and work
Transfer the cactus from the old container to the new container. Set the cactus into the container so the plant will be at the same depth as it was growing in the old container. Fill additional soil in around the roots of the cactus and firm the soil down gently to finish repotting it.
Place the repotted cactus into its regular growing location with direct sunlight. Do not water the cactus for two to three days after repotting.
Tips and Warnings
Repot a cactus in the spring before the plant begins growing actively again.
Install a stake in the new container at the time you repot if your large cactus requires support. Choose a stake that is as tall as the cactus and place it into the container as you place the cactus into the container. Fill soil around both the cactus roots and the stake then tie the stake to the cactus with stretchy plant ties.
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