文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Thyme is one of the most versatile herbs, with a variety of cultivars and flavors. It grows quickly in sunny, hot conditions but can also withstand cold winters. The woody stemmed herb has small leaves that add flavor to recipes and an aromatic touch to sachets and aromatherapy treatments. Knowing how to dry thyme can help you preserve the fresh delightful scent and flavor of this herb for easy home use.
How to Harvest Thyme
Knowing when and how to harvest thyme will garner the best results when drying. Woody stemmed herbs are best harvested just before blooming for peak flavor. Cut the stems for drying fresh thyme, just before a growth node. This will increase bushing and ensure a constant supply of the tasty leaves. Morning is the best time of day for harvesting thyme.
How to Dry Thyme
After harvesting thyme, wash it and shake off the excess water. You can choose to dry the entire stem or remove the tiny leaves. The leaves will dry more quickly off the stem but they will remove more easily from an already dried piece of the herb. To remove the leaves, pinch the end of the stem with your thumb and forefinger and pull up the stalk. The leaves will fall off. Remove any of the peripheral twigs and proceed with drying fresh thyme.
Drying Fresh Thyme in a Dehydrator
There are several ways you can dry your herbs. Drying fresh thyme in a food dehydrator is fast and protects against possible mold. The moisture in herbs that are drying in the necessary warm conditions may cause the formation of mold if too much humidity is in the area. To dry thyme in a dehydrator, lay the stems in a single layer on the racks that come with the unit. The stems will dry in under two days and can be stripped of the leaves.
How to Dry Thyme by Hanging
Traditionally, many herbs were dried by hanging. This is still a useful practice today and requires no special equipment. Take stems and bundle them together. Tie the bundles and hang them where the temperatures are at least 50 F. (10 C.) and humidity is low. Stems may take a week or more to dry.
Other Methods of Drying Fresh Thyme
Drying the leaves is the quickest method of preserving the herb. Once the leaves are separated from the stem, you can just lay them on a cookie sheet. Stir them up after half a day. The leaves will be completely dry in just a couple of days.
Storing Thyme
Storing thyme correctly will preserve its essence and flavor. Put the dried herb in an airtight container in a dim to dark area. Light and moisture will degrade the herb’s flavor.
How to Harvest Thyme
Knowing when and how to harvest thyme will garner the best results when drying. Woody stemmed herbs are best harvested just before blooming for peak flavor. Cut the stems for drying fresh thyme, just before a growth node. This will increase bushing and ensure a constant supply of the tasty leaves. Morning is the best time of day for harvesting thyme.
How to Dry Thyme
After harvesting thyme, wash it and shake off the excess water. You can choose to dry the entire stem or remove the tiny leaves. The leaves will dry more quickly off the stem but they will remove more easily from an already dried piece of the herb. To remove the leaves, pinch the end of the stem with your thumb and forefinger and pull up the stalk. The leaves will fall off. Remove any of the peripheral twigs and proceed with drying fresh thyme.
Drying Fresh Thyme in a Dehydrator
There are several ways you can dry your herbs. Drying fresh thyme in a food dehydrator is fast and protects against possible mold. The moisture in herbs that are drying in the necessary warm conditions may cause the formation of mold if too much humidity is in the area. To dry thyme in a dehydrator, lay the stems in a single layer on the racks that come with the unit. The stems will dry in under two days and can be stripped of the leaves.
How to Dry Thyme by Hanging
Traditionally, many herbs were dried by hanging. This is still a useful practice today and requires no special equipment. Take stems and bundle them together. Tie the bundles and hang them where the temperatures are at least 50 F. (10 C.) and humidity is low. Stems may take a week or more to dry.
Other Methods of Drying Fresh Thyme
Drying the leaves is the quickest method of preserving the herb. Once the leaves are separated from the stem, you can just lay them on a cookie sheet. Stir them up after half a day. The leaves will be completely dry in just a couple of days.
Storing Thyme
Storing thyme correctly will preserve its essence and flavor. Put the dried herb in an airtight container in a dim to dark area. Light and moisture will degrade the herb’s flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Skullcap herb uses are varied in that skullcap refers to two separate herbs: American skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora) and Chinese skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis), both of which are used to treat entirely different conditions. Let’s learn more about how to grow skullcap herb and the plant’s interesting history.
History of Skullcap Herb Uses
Chinese skullcap is found in China and into parts of Russia. Chinese skullcap herb uses have been employed for centuries to treat allergies, cancer, infections, inflammation, and headaches. Most laboratory studies have been done on the Chinese skullcap variety and may even suggest some antifungal and antiviral benefits.
American skullcap is native to North America, specifically throughout the prairie states where there are eight varieties to be found. Containing scutellarin, a flavinoid compound with confirmed sedative and antispasmodic effects, some of the American skullcap herb uses include its use as a mild relaxant, commonly treating anxiety, nerves, and convulsions. Growing skullcap has been used for over 200 years — listed in the U. S Pharmacopoeia from 1863 to 1916 and in the national formulary from 1916 to 1947. Despite these prestigious listings, skullcap has also been listed as having no medicinal properties in either publication. The controversy over skullcap herb uses aside, this herb was once used as a remedy for rabies and hence is also known as ‘Mad-Dog’ skullcap. The native plains people also once used skullcap (S. parvula) as a treatment for diarrhea. Growing skullcap herb has bluish-violet hooded flowers, which bloom from May through September, and has a spreading habitat. From the family Lamiaceae and found among the rich fauna of North America’s woodlands, thickets and along stream banks, those wanting to know how to grow skullcap herb plants will need to provide similar growing conditions. Optimal skullcap plant care will include plantation in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-drained soil.
Skullcap Planting Instructions
Skullcap planting instructions include stratifying seeds for at least a week before sowing. To stratify the skullcap herbs seeds, place them in a sealed plastic bag with moistened vermiculite, sand or even a moist paper towel and refrigerate them. Use three times the amount of vermiculite vs. seeds and only slightly moisten, as excessive moisture may cause the seeds to mold. Sow skullcap plant seeds indoors where they will germinate in around two weeks time. Then transplant the growing skullcap herb seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed, spacing them 12 inches apart in rows. Growing skullcap herbs may also be propagated via division of roots or cuttings and will then spread and clump. The resulting skullcap herb plants are resistant to most major pests.
Skullcap Plant Care
Responding well to irrigation and fertilization when situated in drier climates, growing skullcap is a hardy, herbaceous perennial herb when grown in such conditions and attains a height of 1 to 3 feet tall. Once the skullcap herb plant is in bloom, harvest the aerial parts 3 inches above the ground for use as a strong tea, tincture or liniment. As with most herbs, the skullcap herb plant may be used fresh or dried.
History of Skullcap Herb Uses
Chinese skullcap is found in China and into parts of Russia. Chinese skullcap herb uses have been employed for centuries to treat allergies, cancer, infections, inflammation, and headaches. Most laboratory studies have been done on the Chinese skullcap variety and may even suggest some antifungal and antiviral benefits.
American skullcap is native to North America, specifically throughout the prairie states where there are eight varieties to be found. Containing scutellarin, a flavinoid compound with confirmed sedative and antispasmodic effects, some of the American skullcap herb uses include its use as a mild relaxant, commonly treating anxiety, nerves, and convulsions. Growing skullcap has been used for over 200 years — listed in the U. S Pharmacopoeia from 1863 to 1916 and in the national formulary from 1916 to 1947. Despite these prestigious listings, skullcap has also been listed as having no medicinal properties in either publication. The controversy over skullcap herb uses aside, this herb was once used as a remedy for rabies and hence is also known as ‘Mad-Dog’ skullcap. The native plains people also once used skullcap (S. parvula) as a treatment for diarrhea. Growing skullcap herb has bluish-violet hooded flowers, which bloom from May through September, and has a spreading habitat. From the family Lamiaceae and found among the rich fauna of North America’s woodlands, thickets and along stream banks, those wanting to know how to grow skullcap herb plants will need to provide similar growing conditions. Optimal skullcap plant care will include plantation in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-drained soil.
Skullcap Planting Instructions
Skullcap planting instructions include stratifying seeds for at least a week before sowing. To stratify the skullcap herbs seeds, place them in a sealed plastic bag with moistened vermiculite, sand or even a moist paper towel and refrigerate them. Use three times the amount of vermiculite vs. seeds and only slightly moisten, as excessive moisture may cause the seeds to mold. Sow skullcap plant seeds indoors where they will germinate in around two weeks time. Then transplant the growing skullcap herb seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed, spacing them 12 inches apart in rows. Growing skullcap herbs may also be propagated via division of roots or cuttings and will then spread and clump. The resulting skullcap herb plants are resistant to most major pests.
Skullcap Plant Care
Responding well to irrigation and fertilization when situated in drier climates, growing skullcap is a hardy, herbaceous perennial herb when grown in such conditions and attains a height of 1 to 3 feet tall. Once the skullcap herb plant is in bloom, harvest the aerial parts 3 inches above the ground for use as a strong tea, tincture or liniment. As with most herbs, the skullcap herb plant may be used fresh or dried.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Given the right conditions, rosemary plants thrive, eventually reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet. They grow out as well as up, sending out stems that seem determined to explore their surroundings and invade the space of adjacent plants. If your rosemary plant has grown out of control, it’s time to take drastic action. Rejuvenation pruning of rosemary may be needed.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a commonly grown herb plant popular for its fragrant aroma. This easy-care plant enjoys hot, dry conditions, making it suitable for use in a variety of landscape settings and an excellent candidate for areas prone to drought. Keep reading to learn more about lavender plant care.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
It is always hard to find durable plants that favor punishing conditions in sandy or rocky soils. Lewisia is a gorgeous little plant perfect for such areas. What is Lewisia? It is a member of the Portulaca family, known for the attractive fleshy green leaves and ease of care common to members of this group. Lewisia bitterroot plants (Lewisia rediviva) are a favorite in my garden. With all the other garden chores required for a healthy garden, you can rest with Lewisia care. The succulents fend for themselves and bring astonishingly lovely flowers in late spring through early summer.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Most herbs thrive in sunny Mediterranean-like conditions in well-draining soil. Certainly one of the most popular herbs, basil is a tender annual in most cases. With that thought in mind, at the end of season basil harvest, can you keep the basil through winter?
Will Basil Die Over Winter?
As previously mentioned, basil is an annual in most cases. Specifically, sweet basil, the popular variety of basil grown for use in the most sublime pesto sauces, is an annual. There are a couple of other varieties of basil that are hardier and tend towards a perennial life cycle.
Generally, the end of summer or first part of fall heralds the end of season basil harvest, but is there a way to extend basil’s life at the end of the season? You can try to keep basil through the winter. However, sweet basil is meant to live its life cycle within one year and thereafter go to seed. At the end of the season, though, you can try to keep it alive by moving potted basil indoors. Unless you are moving and growing the herb in a greenhouse, the hot temperatures and direct sunlight that basil thrives in are not usually found in the average person’s home, so be sure to provide as much light as possible; artificial lighting for 10-12 hours a day during the darker winter months. Even so, the plant may linger for a time, but it will succumb at some point. With this knowledge, it is best to be prepared to either purchase another plant or start your own from seed in the spring.
Basil Care After Season
Since basil’s sweet, fresh flavor is fleeting, it’s wise to have a game plan for basil care after season. That is, how are you going to utilize all that fresh basil while it’s at its peak and at the final harvest? Basil is best used fresh. That said, it is also pungent when dried. Using a dehydrator or simply preserving the foliage by air drying in a warm, dry well ventilated room for a week or so is a great way to extend the life of this herb. Once the herb has dried, remove the leaves from the stems and store the leaves either whole or ground in an airtight container away from heat and bright light. Stored in this manner, dried basil will keep for one year. A better method for storing and utilizing fresh basil leaves is by freezing the herb. Freezing basil allows you to keep the brilliant green color which complements food so beautifully, while drying the herb turns it to an unpleasant brown. Freezing your basil also results in a flavor more akin to fresh. You can freeze entire leaves in small batches in small plastic bags or chop them and place them in an ice cube tray with a bit of water. Or, mix the chopped basil with a bit of olive oil and then freeze in ice cube trays.
Once frozen, remove the cubes of basil and store in airtight containers in the freezer for future use. You can also make some fabulous pesto sauce and freeze it in batches. Frozen basil will last the same as dried, about one year. However, if you decide to store your basil for the post harvest season, do it! I miss the fresh aroma and tender flavor of fresh picked basil during the winter. There really is nothing like it, and I pine for spring when I can cultivate it again.
Will Basil Die Over Winter?
As previously mentioned, basil is an annual in most cases. Specifically, sweet basil, the popular variety of basil grown for use in the most sublime pesto sauces, is an annual. There are a couple of other varieties of basil that are hardier and tend towards a perennial life cycle.
Generally, the end of summer or first part of fall heralds the end of season basil harvest, but is there a way to extend basil’s life at the end of the season? You can try to keep basil through the winter. However, sweet basil is meant to live its life cycle within one year and thereafter go to seed. At the end of the season, though, you can try to keep it alive by moving potted basil indoors. Unless you are moving and growing the herb in a greenhouse, the hot temperatures and direct sunlight that basil thrives in are not usually found in the average person’s home, so be sure to provide as much light as possible; artificial lighting for 10-12 hours a day during the darker winter months. Even so, the plant may linger for a time, but it will succumb at some point. With this knowledge, it is best to be prepared to either purchase another plant or start your own from seed in the spring.
Basil Care After Season
Since basil’s sweet, fresh flavor is fleeting, it’s wise to have a game plan for basil care after season. That is, how are you going to utilize all that fresh basil while it’s at its peak and at the final harvest? Basil is best used fresh. That said, it is also pungent when dried. Using a dehydrator or simply preserving the foliage by air drying in a warm, dry well ventilated room for a week or so is a great way to extend the life of this herb. Once the herb has dried, remove the leaves from the stems and store the leaves either whole or ground in an airtight container away from heat and bright light. Stored in this manner, dried basil will keep for one year. A better method for storing and utilizing fresh basil leaves is by freezing the herb. Freezing basil allows you to keep the brilliant green color which complements food so beautifully, while drying the herb turns it to an unpleasant brown. Freezing your basil also results in a flavor more akin to fresh. You can freeze entire leaves in small batches in small plastic bags or chop them and place them in an ice cube tray with a bit of water. Or, mix the chopped basil with a bit of olive oil and then freeze in ice cube trays.
Once frozen, remove the cubes of basil and store in airtight containers in the freezer for future use. You can also make some fabulous pesto sauce and freeze it in batches. Frozen basil will last the same as dried, about one year. However, if you decide to store your basil for the post harvest season, do it! I miss the fresh aroma and tender flavor of fresh picked basil during the winter. There really is nothing like it, and I pine for spring when I can cultivate it again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a wonderfully versatile annual herb that is native to southern Asia and the islands of the South Pacific. As with other herbs, basil is easy to grow and with ideal conditions quite prolific. Even so, basil plants can have a number of issues; among these are basil plants with woody stems. If you have basil stems turning into wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants form from thick tubers with a tangled root mass. They are native to tropical South Africa where they thrive in hot conditions. A spider plant with swollen roots may be pot bound, require more soil or showing evidence of a strange adaptation found in these and many other plants. A quick repotting should determine which the case is. As long as the tubers and roots are healthy, the plant is in no danger and will thrive.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is considered one of the most adaptable of houseplants and the easiest to grow. This plant can grow in a wide range of conditions and suffers from few problems, other than brown tips. The spider plant is so named because of its spider-like plants, or spiderettes, which dangle down from the mother plant like spiders on a web. Available in green or variegated varieties, these spiderettes often start out as small white flowers.
Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care
Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings.
When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes.
Spider Plant Spiderettes
As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual.
Spider Plant Leaves Browning
If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.
Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care
Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings.
When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes.
Spider Plant Spiderettes
As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual.
Spider Plant Leaves Browning
If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Gardeners seeking a palm tree specimen to accent the garden or home will want to know how to grow the pygmy date palm tree. Pygmy palm growing is relatively simple given suitable conditions, though pruning pygmy palm trees is sometimes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller settings.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are number of reasons the foliage on a houseplant can turn brown. Why do prayer plant leaves turn brown? Prayer plants with brown tips can be caused by low humidity, improper watering, excess fertilizer or even too much sun. Cultural conditions are easy to change and soon your beautiful houseplant will be back to its glossy glory. Take a good look at where your plant is situated and how you care for it, and you can unlock the riddle of why you have brown leaves on prayer plants.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Sarracenia, or pitcher plants, are native to North America. They are classic carnivorous plants that use trapped insects as part of their nutrient needs. These specimens need moist conditions and are often found near water. Most varieties are not extremely cold hardy, which makes pitcher plant care over winter very important. During pitcher plant dormancy, some exposure to chilly temperatures is necessary but most are not hardy below USDA zone 7. Over wintering pitcher plants in colder zones will require moving the plants or providing them with protection from the cold weather.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing Persian violet indoors can add a splash of color and interest to the home. These easy to care for plants will reward you with beautiful blooms when given optimal conditions. Read on for more about Persian violet plant care.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
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