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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
While little known to many people, carob trees (Ceratonia siliqua) have a lot to offer to the home landscape given suitable growing conditions. This age-old tree has an interesting history as well as a number of uses. Keep reading for more carob tree information.
What are Carobs?
Chocolate, how do I love thee. Let me count the ways…and calories. Made up of about half fat, chocolate addictions (such as mine) beg for a solution. Carob is just that solution. Rich not only in sucrose but also 8% protein, containing vitamins A and B plus several minerals, and about one-third the calories of chocolate without the fat (yep, fat free!), carob makes an ideal substitute for chocolate.
So, what are carobs? Carob growing in the their native habitat can be found in the eastern Mediterranean, probably in the Middle East, where it has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Carob growing has also been referred to in the Bible and was known to the ancient Greeks as well. In the Bible, the carob tree is also called St. John’s bean or locust bean in reference to the “locusts” eaten by John the Baptist, which were represented by the hanging pods or legumes of the plant. A member of the Fabaceae or Legume family, carob tree information states that it is an evergreen tree with pinnate leaves of two to six oval pairs that grows to about 50 to 55 feet tall.
Additional Carob Tree Information
Cultivated around the world for its sweet and nutritious fruits, carob seeds were once used to weigh gold, which is where the word ‘carat’ is derived. The Spanish brought carob growing to Mexico and South America, and the British introduced carob trees to South Africa, India and Australia. Introduced into the United States in 1854, carob trees are now a familiar sight throughout California where its warm, drier climate is ideal for carob growing. Thriving in Mediterranean-like climes, carob grows well anywhere that citrus grows and is grown for its fruit (pod), which is most familiarly known for its use ground into a flour and substituted for cocoa beans. The long, flat brown carob pods (4 to 12 inches) also contain a polysaccharide gum, which is odorless, tasteless and colorless, and is used in many products. Livestock may also be fed carob pods, while people have long used the pod husks for medicinal purposes such as that of a throat balm or chewing lozenge to relieve hoarseness.
How to Grow Carob Trees
Sowing seed directly is probably the most common method for how to grow carob trees. Fresh seeds germinate quickly, while dried seeds need to be scarred and then soaked for a period of time until swollen two to three times in size. Traditionally planted in flats and then transplanted once the seedlings attain a second set of leaves, germination for carob trees is only about 25 percent certain. Carob should be spaced 9 inches apart in the garden. For the home gardener, an established 1-gallon carob tree start might more prudently be purchased from a nursery. Keep in mind that conditions in your garden must closely mimic those of the Mediterranean, or grow carob in a greenhouse or in a container, which can be moved into a protected area indoors. Carob trees may be grown in USDA zones 9-11. Be patient as carob trees grow slowly at first but begin to bear in the sixth year of planting and may remain productive for 80 to 100 years.
Carob Tree Care
Carob tree care dictates establishing the carob tree in an area of the landscape in full sun and well drained soil. While carob can withstand drought and alkalinity, it does not tolerate acidic soil or overly wet conditions. Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate. Once established, carob trees are strong and resilient and are affected by few diseases or pests, although scale may be an issue. Severe infestation of these immovable armored insects may cause oddly shaped and yellowing leaves, oozing bark, and general stunting of the carob tree. Prune out any areas that are afflicted with scale.
Some other insects, such as predatory lady beetles or parasitic wasps, may afflict the carob as well and can be treated with horticultural oil if absolutely necessary. Really, the biggest threat to the carob is its dislike for soggy soil and overly wet conditions, which lead to stunted trees and inability to absorb nutrition, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Generally, an established plant will not need to be fertilized, but if these problems are plaguing the tree, a dose of fertilizer may be beneficial and, of course, cut back on irrigation.
What are Carobs?
Chocolate, how do I love thee. Let me count the ways…and calories. Made up of about half fat, chocolate addictions (such as mine) beg for a solution. Carob is just that solution. Rich not only in sucrose but also 8% protein, containing vitamins A and B plus several minerals, and about one-third the calories of chocolate without the fat (yep, fat free!), carob makes an ideal substitute for chocolate.
So, what are carobs? Carob growing in the their native habitat can be found in the eastern Mediterranean, probably in the Middle East, where it has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Carob growing has also been referred to in the Bible and was known to the ancient Greeks as well. In the Bible, the carob tree is also called St. John’s bean or locust bean in reference to the “locusts” eaten by John the Baptist, which were represented by the hanging pods or legumes of the plant. A member of the Fabaceae or Legume family, carob tree information states that it is an evergreen tree with pinnate leaves of two to six oval pairs that grows to about 50 to 55 feet tall.
Additional Carob Tree Information
Cultivated around the world for its sweet and nutritious fruits, carob seeds were once used to weigh gold, which is where the word ‘carat’ is derived. The Spanish brought carob growing to Mexico and South America, and the British introduced carob trees to South Africa, India and Australia. Introduced into the United States in 1854, carob trees are now a familiar sight throughout California where its warm, drier climate is ideal for carob growing. Thriving in Mediterranean-like climes, carob grows well anywhere that citrus grows and is grown for its fruit (pod), which is most familiarly known for its use ground into a flour and substituted for cocoa beans. The long, flat brown carob pods (4 to 12 inches) also contain a polysaccharide gum, which is odorless, tasteless and colorless, and is used in many products. Livestock may also be fed carob pods, while people have long used the pod husks for medicinal purposes such as that of a throat balm or chewing lozenge to relieve hoarseness.
How to Grow Carob Trees
Sowing seed directly is probably the most common method for how to grow carob trees. Fresh seeds germinate quickly, while dried seeds need to be scarred and then soaked for a period of time until swollen two to three times in size. Traditionally planted in flats and then transplanted once the seedlings attain a second set of leaves, germination for carob trees is only about 25 percent certain. Carob should be spaced 9 inches apart in the garden. For the home gardener, an established 1-gallon carob tree start might more prudently be purchased from a nursery. Keep in mind that conditions in your garden must closely mimic those of the Mediterranean, or grow carob in a greenhouse or in a container, which can be moved into a protected area indoors. Carob trees may be grown in USDA zones 9-11. Be patient as carob trees grow slowly at first but begin to bear in the sixth year of planting and may remain productive for 80 to 100 years.
Carob Tree Care
Carob tree care dictates establishing the carob tree in an area of the landscape in full sun and well drained soil. While carob can withstand drought and alkalinity, it does not tolerate acidic soil or overly wet conditions. Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate. Once established, carob trees are strong and resilient and are affected by few diseases or pests, although scale may be an issue. Severe infestation of these immovable armored insects may cause oddly shaped and yellowing leaves, oozing bark, and general stunting of the carob tree. Prune out any areas that are afflicted with scale.
Some other insects, such as predatory lady beetles or parasitic wasps, may afflict the carob as well and can be treated with horticultural oil if absolutely necessary. Really, the biggest threat to the carob is its dislike for soggy soil and overly wet conditions, which lead to stunted trees and inability to absorb nutrition, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Generally, an established plant will not need to be fertilized, but if these problems are plaguing the tree, a dose of fertilizer may be beneficial and, of course, cut back on irrigation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are big, graceful trees that are relatively low-maintenance and hardy enough to grow in a variety of conditions. While the long, slender branches of most willow tree species lend themselves to creation of beautiful woven baskets, certain larger willow species are preferred by weavers around the world. Read on to learn more about growing willow plants for baskets.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Native to eastern Australia, Australian tea tree plant (Leptospermum laevigatum) is a graceful evergreen shrub or small tree valued for ability to grow in difficult conditions, and for its twists and curves, which give the tree a natural, sculptured appearance. Australian tea tree plant is also known as Australian myrtle, or coastal tea tree. Want to learn about growing an Australian tea tree? It’s easy; just keep reading to find out!
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Fruitless mulberry trees are popular landscaping trees. The reason that they are so popular is due to the fact that they are fast growing, have a lush canopy of dark green leaves and are tolerant of many urban conditions, plus, unlike their cousins the red and white mulberry tree, they do not make a mess with their fruit. Because of their popularity, many people become alarmed when the mulberry tree leaves start turning yellow. There are many reasons fruitless mulberry tree leaves turn yellow.
Mulberry Leaf Spot
Mulberry leaf spot is caused by a type of fungi that attacks the leaves of the tree. Fruitless mulberry trees are particularly susceptible to it. Mulberry leaf spot can be identified by the leaves growing somewhat malformed, yellowed and having black spots.
Mulberry leaf spot can be treated with fungicide. Even without treatment, fruitless mulberry trees can normally survive this disease. The important thing to remember is that you will need to clean up and dispose of all the fallen leaves in the fall or winter. The mulberry leaf spot fungi over winter on the fallen leaves and in the spring, the rain will splash the fungi back onto the tree, which re-infects it for the next year. Removing and destroying the fallen leaves will help prevent this.
Not Enough Water
Fruitless mulberry trees grow rapidly and their root systems can grow to a massive size. What this means is that what may have been enough water one year will not be enough water the next. When the tree does not get enough water, the mulberry gets yellow leaves. A mulberry tree may be particularly prone to this during periods of drought when the leaves will be transpiring water faster than the roots can take it up.. The best course of action is too water the tree deeply about once a week. Watering deeply is better for the tree than multiple shallow waterings. A deep watering will get the water down into the root system so that more of the roots will be able to take water up at the same rate as the leaves transpire it.
Cotton Root Rot
Cotton root rot is another fungus that can cause a mulberry to have yellow leaves. Cotton root rot is characterized by yellowing leaves followed by wilting. The leaves will not fall off the plant though. Unfortunately, by the time the symptoms of cotton root rot are seen, the tree has most likely been damaged beyond repair and will most likely die within a year. Calling an arborist to look at the situation is advised due to the fact that cotton root rot will continue to spread in the soil and kill other surrounding plants and trees.
Hopefully your mulberry tree will recover from whatever problem is causing the mulberry tree leaves to turn yellow. Fruitless mulberry trees are amazingly resilient and yours should bounce back in no time at all.
Mulberry Leaf Spot
Mulberry leaf spot is caused by a type of fungi that attacks the leaves of the tree. Fruitless mulberry trees are particularly susceptible to it. Mulberry leaf spot can be identified by the leaves growing somewhat malformed, yellowed and having black spots.
Mulberry leaf spot can be treated with fungicide. Even without treatment, fruitless mulberry trees can normally survive this disease. The important thing to remember is that you will need to clean up and dispose of all the fallen leaves in the fall or winter. The mulberry leaf spot fungi over winter on the fallen leaves and in the spring, the rain will splash the fungi back onto the tree, which re-infects it for the next year. Removing and destroying the fallen leaves will help prevent this.
Not Enough Water
Fruitless mulberry trees grow rapidly and their root systems can grow to a massive size. What this means is that what may have been enough water one year will not be enough water the next. When the tree does not get enough water, the mulberry gets yellow leaves. A mulberry tree may be particularly prone to this during periods of drought when the leaves will be transpiring water faster than the roots can take it up.. The best course of action is too water the tree deeply about once a week. Watering deeply is better for the tree than multiple shallow waterings. A deep watering will get the water down into the root system so that more of the roots will be able to take water up at the same rate as the leaves transpire it.
Cotton Root Rot
Cotton root rot is another fungus that can cause a mulberry to have yellow leaves. Cotton root rot is characterized by yellowing leaves followed by wilting. The leaves will not fall off the plant though. Unfortunately, by the time the symptoms of cotton root rot are seen, the tree has most likely been damaged beyond repair and will most likely die within a year. Calling an arborist to look at the situation is advised due to the fact that cotton root rot will continue to spread in the soil and kill other surrounding plants and trees.
Hopefully your mulberry tree will recover from whatever problem is causing the mulberry tree leaves to turn yellow. Fruitless mulberry trees are amazingly resilient and yours should bounce back in no time at all.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock trees are the Ferraris of the evergreen world — these graceful, drooping trees and shrubs are gorgeous additions to the landscape, but require very exacting conditions to do well. Like other beautiful and delicate things, if you can get hemlocks to thrive in your landscape, you’ll be the envy of your neighbors; but a hemlock in poor health will only make your home look sad and worn out. If you’re considering planting a hemlock in your yard as a specimen tree or for a unique hedge, read on to learn more about hemlock tree care.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The gray dogwood isn’t a tidy or attractive plant that you would want to plant in a well-groomed garden, but if you are planting a wildlife area or want a shrub for difficult conditions, it may be just what you need. Read on for information about this humble shrub.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Clove trees (Syzygium aromaticum) produce the cloves you use to spice up your cooking. Can you grow a clove tree? According to clove tree information, it’s not hard to grow these trees if you can provide ideal growing conditions. If you are wondering what it takes to grow this tree or about clove tree uses, read on.
Clove Tree Information
The clove tree is native to Indonesia, but clove tree information suggests that it has naturalized in many warm countries. These include Mexico, Kenya and Sri Lanka. The plant has been cultivated since 200 B.C. to produce the cloves.
The most important of clove tree uses is, of course, the plant’s aromatic dried buds, or cloves. The name cloves comes from Latin “clavus,” meaning nail, as cloves often look like small nails. Clove trees are evergreens that grow to some 40 feet tall. Their bark is smooth and gray, and their long, 5-inch leaves look like bay leaves. Blossoms are tiny – about ½ inch long – and gather in clusters at branch tips. The entire plant is fragrant and aromatic.
Clove Tree Growing Conditions
Can you grow a clove tree? You can, but it’s hard for most gardeners to replicate ideal clove tree growing conditions. Clove tree information tells you that the tree is native to wet, tropical areas of the world. Therefore, the trees grow best in a hot and wet region. Ideal growing conditions include at least 50 to 70 inches of rainfall annually. The minimum temperature for clove trees is 59 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.). Most commercial clove producers locate their plantations within 10 degrees of the equator.
Clove Tree Care
If you happen to live in such an area, and near the ocean, you probably won’t have much trouble growing clove trees. Plant the seeds in well-drained, fertile loam, then follow good practices for their care. One part of clove tree care is to install shade plants to protect the young seedlings for the first few years. Banana plants work well to provide this temporary shade. Clove trees are not a short-term project. The trees regularly live a century and sometimes live for over 300 years. More pertinent to the average gardener, you’ll have to wait at least 20 years for the tree to produce a full crop.
Clove Tree Uses
Many Americans use cloves for cooking. They are popular spices for baked hams and pumpkin pie. But clove tree uses are much broader than this globally. In Indonesia, cloves are used to make popular clove aromatized cigarettes. Other clove tree uses are medicinal. Extracted clove oil is also used as an essential oil that is used medicinally. Some people also make tea from cloves that is considered to help with stomach upsets, chills and impotence.
Clove Tree Information
The clove tree is native to Indonesia, but clove tree information suggests that it has naturalized in many warm countries. These include Mexico, Kenya and Sri Lanka. The plant has been cultivated since 200 B.C. to produce the cloves.
The most important of clove tree uses is, of course, the plant’s aromatic dried buds, or cloves. The name cloves comes from Latin “clavus,” meaning nail, as cloves often look like small nails. Clove trees are evergreens that grow to some 40 feet tall. Their bark is smooth and gray, and their long, 5-inch leaves look like bay leaves. Blossoms are tiny – about ½ inch long – and gather in clusters at branch tips. The entire plant is fragrant and aromatic.
Clove Tree Growing Conditions
Can you grow a clove tree? You can, but it’s hard for most gardeners to replicate ideal clove tree growing conditions. Clove tree information tells you that the tree is native to wet, tropical areas of the world. Therefore, the trees grow best in a hot and wet region. Ideal growing conditions include at least 50 to 70 inches of rainfall annually. The minimum temperature for clove trees is 59 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.). Most commercial clove producers locate their plantations within 10 degrees of the equator.
Clove Tree Care
If you happen to live in such an area, and near the ocean, you probably won’t have much trouble growing clove trees. Plant the seeds in well-drained, fertile loam, then follow good practices for their care. One part of clove tree care is to install shade plants to protect the young seedlings for the first few years. Banana plants work well to provide this temporary shade. Clove trees are not a short-term project. The trees regularly live a century and sometimes live for over 300 years. More pertinent to the average gardener, you’ll have to wait at least 20 years for the tree to produce a full crop.
Clove Tree Uses
Many Americans use cloves for cooking. They are popular spices for baked hams and pumpkin pie. But clove tree uses are much broader than this globally. In Indonesia, cloves are used to make popular clove aromatized cigarettes. Other clove tree uses are medicinal. Extracted clove oil is also used as an essential oil that is used medicinally. Some people also make tea from cloves that is considered to help with stomach upsets, chills and impotence.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for an interesting tree that can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions in the landscape, consider growing yourself a pea tree. What is a pea tree, you ask? Keep reading for more information about pea trees.
About Pea Trees
A member of the pea family (Fabaceae), the Siberian pea tree, Caragana arborescens, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Siberia and Manchuria. Introduced into the United States, the Siberian pea tree, otherwise known as Caragana pea tree, attains heights of between 10 to 15 feet tall, some up to 20 feet tall. It is composed of alternate 3- to 5-inch long leaves made up of eight to 12 oval leaflets with yellow snapdragon shaped blooms appearing in early spring and forming pods in late June or early July. Seeds are spread as the ripening pods burst with a resounding pop. The Siberian pea tree has been used medicinally while some ethnic groups eat the young pods, use the bark for fiber, and render an azure colored dye from its leaves. During WWII, Siberian peasants supposedly over wintered their poultry flocks by feeding them the seeds of Caragana pea trees, which wildlife enjoy as well. The erect to almost weeping habit of the pea tree lends itself well to planting Caragana as windbreaks, in borders, screen plantings and as flowering hedges.
How to Grow a Pea Tree
Interested in how to grow a pea tree? Planting Caragana trees may occur in almost any region of the United States, as it is fairly tolerant of most conditions. Siberian pea trees can be planted anywhere in anything from full sun to partial shade and in moist to dry soil. Planting Caragana pea trees may occur in clay, loam or sandy soil media with either a high acidity or high alkalinity in USDA plant hardiness zones 2-8.
You should plan on planting your pea tree after the chance of any frost in the area. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and 2 inches as deep. Add a couple of handfuls of compost and four handfuls of sand (if you have dense soil) to the dirt. If you are planning on creating a hedge, space each plant 5 to 10 feet apart. Place 2 inches of this amended soil back into the hole and put the new Siberian pea plant atop and fill with the rest of the soil. Water thoroughly and tamp down the soil around the plant. Continue to water every other day for the first two weeks to establish strong root then thereafter reduce watering to twice a week for the next two weeks.
Pea Tree Care
Since Siberian pea plant is so adaptable, there is minimal pea tree care to consider once established. Feed the plant a slow release fertilizer tablet or granules once the plant has started to grow and water in. You will only need to fertilize once a year in the spring. Water every week unless the weather is overly hot and dry, and prune as needed – ideally in late winter to early spring, especially if creating a hedge of Caragana pea trees.
Caragana pea trees will even flourish seaside as well as more arid climates and is resistant to most pests and diseases. This hardy flowering specimen can live from 40 to 150 years growing an additional 3 feet per season, so if planting Caragana in your landscape, you should enjoy the tree for many years to come.
About Pea Trees
A member of the pea family (Fabaceae), the Siberian pea tree, Caragana arborescens, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Siberia and Manchuria. Introduced into the United States, the Siberian pea tree, otherwise known as Caragana pea tree, attains heights of between 10 to 15 feet tall, some up to 20 feet tall. It is composed of alternate 3- to 5-inch long leaves made up of eight to 12 oval leaflets with yellow snapdragon shaped blooms appearing in early spring and forming pods in late June or early July. Seeds are spread as the ripening pods burst with a resounding pop. The Siberian pea tree has been used medicinally while some ethnic groups eat the young pods, use the bark for fiber, and render an azure colored dye from its leaves. During WWII, Siberian peasants supposedly over wintered their poultry flocks by feeding them the seeds of Caragana pea trees, which wildlife enjoy as well. The erect to almost weeping habit of the pea tree lends itself well to planting Caragana as windbreaks, in borders, screen plantings and as flowering hedges.
How to Grow a Pea Tree
Interested in how to grow a pea tree? Planting Caragana trees may occur in almost any region of the United States, as it is fairly tolerant of most conditions. Siberian pea trees can be planted anywhere in anything from full sun to partial shade and in moist to dry soil. Planting Caragana pea trees may occur in clay, loam or sandy soil media with either a high acidity or high alkalinity in USDA plant hardiness zones 2-8.
You should plan on planting your pea tree after the chance of any frost in the area. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and 2 inches as deep. Add a couple of handfuls of compost and four handfuls of sand (if you have dense soil) to the dirt. If you are planning on creating a hedge, space each plant 5 to 10 feet apart. Place 2 inches of this amended soil back into the hole and put the new Siberian pea plant atop and fill with the rest of the soil. Water thoroughly and tamp down the soil around the plant. Continue to water every other day for the first two weeks to establish strong root then thereafter reduce watering to twice a week for the next two weeks.
Pea Tree Care
Since Siberian pea plant is so adaptable, there is minimal pea tree care to consider once established. Feed the plant a slow release fertilizer tablet or granules once the plant has started to grow and water in. You will only need to fertilize once a year in the spring. Water every week unless the weather is overly hot and dry, and prune as needed – ideally in late winter to early spring, especially if creating a hedge of Caragana pea trees.
Caragana pea trees will even flourish seaside as well as more arid climates and is resistant to most pests and diseases. This hardy flowering specimen can live from 40 to 150 years growing an additional 3 feet per season, so if planting Caragana in your landscape, you should enjoy the tree for many years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) produces a colorful spring carpet of soft pastel hues. Little expert knowledge is needed on how to plant and care for creeping phlox. Growing creeping phlox over a rockery or in tough soil conditions provides a nearly carefree ground cover or cascading plant. Consider growing it in between pavers, in a planter or just as a part of a bright spring bed as well.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are an ever-blooming rose developed by Texas A&M University to withstand extreme Texas growing conditions such as drought, freezing temperatures and high humidity. Their popularity has spread as knockout roses are used in commercial and private landscapes with low maintenance requirements. Knockout roses generally are care free, but occasionally, especially between blooming periods, old flowers, battered foliage and a few dead limbs can make the knockout rose bush look like it's seen better days.
How to Revive Knockout Roses
Step 1
Remove weeds from around your knockout rose bush as far as 36 inches from the plant so that you can identify any weak or diseased limbs and see how to shape the plant. Also, rake old leaves and other garden debris from around the base of the plant.
Step 2
Prune out dead wood by cutting dead branches back to the point where they meet a main stem or point of origin. If the dead limb goes all the way to the ground without meeting a main stem, prune it at ground level.
Step 3
Shape the plant by removing spent flowers and unruly growth by cutting limbs at a 45-degree angle and 1/4 of an inch above an outward facing bud to train new growth outward. You can remove as much as half of a knockout rose bush when pruning, but severe pruning will delay the next blooming period for several weeks. This is because the plant blooms on new wood and requires a longer recovery period.
Step 4
Gently work two shovels of well-composted manure or compost into the top inch of the soil around the roots, and apply a rose fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. Spread fertilizer just outside the root zone, not on top of the root zone, as it will burn new roots that are close to the surface. Wate the compost and fertilizer well.
Step 5
Apply a two-inch deep layer of mulch around the base of the plant and six inches past the root zone. Leave a one-inch space between the mulch and the trunk of the knockout rose to prevent mildew from spreading to the bush as the compost decays. Keep it evenly moist until new growth appears.
How to Revive Knockout Roses
Step 1
Remove weeds from around your knockout rose bush as far as 36 inches from the plant so that you can identify any weak or diseased limbs and see how to shape the plant. Also, rake old leaves and other garden debris from around the base of the plant.
Step 2
Prune out dead wood by cutting dead branches back to the point where they meet a main stem or point of origin. If the dead limb goes all the way to the ground without meeting a main stem, prune it at ground level.
Step 3
Shape the plant by removing spent flowers and unruly growth by cutting limbs at a 45-degree angle and 1/4 of an inch above an outward facing bud to train new growth outward. You can remove as much as half of a knockout rose bush when pruning, but severe pruning will delay the next blooming period for several weeks. This is because the plant blooms on new wood and requires a longer recovery period.
Step 4
Gently work two shovels of well-composted manure or compost into the top inch of the soil around the roots, and apply a rose fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. Spread fertilizer just outside the root zone, not on top of the root zone, as it will burn new roots that are close to the surface. Wate the compost and fertilizer well.
Step 5
Apply a two-inch deep layer of mulch around the base of the plant and six inches past the root zone. Leave a one-inch space between the mulch and the trunk of the knockout rose to prevent mildew from spreading to the bush as the compost decays. Keep it evenly moist until new growth appears.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Growing native plants is an excellent way to preserve national flora and have the added bonus of thriving easily since the soils and conditions are designed for their success. There are few plants designed to grow well in almost any climate, both for their beauty and as fodder for cattle, pigs, and many species of butterfly. Frog fruit is one of them.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The ocotillo plant (Fouquieria splendens) is desert shrub that produces a spectacle of bright pink flowers on whip-like canes. It is often called ocotillo cactus, but is not truly a cactus, although it grows in similar conditions. The plant is native to the Sonoron and Chihuahuan deserts. The canes may grow up to 20 feet long in nature but are more likely to get 6 to 10 feet in cultivation. Ocotillo is suitable for xeriscapes, rock gardens and warm climate container gardens.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Curcuma longa is a sterile triploid organism that has evolved through natural selection and propagation. A relative of ginger and sharing similar growing conditions, it is a hybrid of the wild turmeric found in Southern Asia, with India being the predominant producer of growing turmeric plants for trade. Turmeric can also be found in China (where it has been cultivated since the seventh century), Jamaica, Indonesia and Malaysia. Let’s learn more about this plant, its benefits and how to grow turmeric in the home or garden.
What Does the Turmeric Plant Look Like?
Turmeric plants grow to 3 feet high with large, 5-inch, deep green leaves. The blooms are green and white edged with vibrant pink and yellow.
Turmeric Benefits
Growing turmeric plants are great sources of vitamin C, magnesium and potassium, but the list of turmeric benefits doesn’t stop there. With the cultivation of turmeric dating from 300 BC by the Harappan civilization, turmeric has been long found to have a plethora of medicinal benefits. Arthritis, muscle sprains, swelling, and pain caused by injury or surgical incision has been shown to be relieved. Stomach and liver ailments, skin diseases and some heart related diseases can all be aided with the use of turmeric plants. It can be utilized as a blood purifier, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant too. Growing turmeric and using the Curcumin from the plants may aid in the battle against certain types of cancer, including leukemia. Further studies have shown that turmeric plants may also be beneficial to those afflicted with Alzheimer’s disease. In China, the plants have been used as a treatment for depression. There are additional turmeric benefits to one’s daily life, such as its use in cosmetics or sunscreen, as a home remedy for sunburn, as a dye for the body or cloth, and even as a depilatory for Indian women. It is widely reputed to aid in digestion and for this reason is a major ingredient in Indian cuisine, including curry. Turmeric is also the ingredient which lends its brilliant yellow color to mustards.
Can You Grow Turmeric?
Can you grow turmeric? Sure, although turmeric plants are really better suited to open fields with a climate that is not easily found in North America. That said, with the correct conditions, I would give it a go. A hardy ginger, growing turmeric plants require certain conditions such as humid warm weather and significant rain. When growing these plants in the home or garden, temperatures between 68-86 F. (20-30 C.) are required.
How to Grow Turmeric?
These hardy ginger relatives die back in the winter and pop back up in the spring, growing from a system of rhizomes and propagating via vegetative reproduction. This means that each piece of rhizome has the capacity to become a new plant, provided each division has a piece of the crown. You can start growing turmeric this way with a small piece of rhizome gifted to you from another gardener or purchased from a nursery. Either way, you will soon have a forest of turmeric plants as they grow and spread rapidly. When one is growing turmeric, choose a morning sun exposure with afternoon part shade and moist clay to part clay soil. Planting takes place in the spring. Plant the section 4 inches deep, unless container gardening in which case 1 to 2 inches may be sufficient. Maintain adequate moisture and dig the roots up in late fall or early winter when the plant is dormant. Remember, these plants may be injured if temperatures fall below 50 F (10 C.).
What Does the Turmeric Plant Look Like?
Turmeric plants grow to 3 feet high with large, 5-inch, deep green leaves. The blooms are green and white edged with vibrant pink and yellow.
Turmeric Benefits
Growing turmeric plants are great sources of vitamin C, magnesium and potassium, but the list of turmeric benefits doesn’t stop there. With the cultivation of turmeric dating from 300 BC by the Harappan civilization, turmeric has been long found to have a plethora of medicinal benefits. Arthritis, muscle sprains, swelling, and pain caused by injury or surgical incision has been shown to be relieved. Stomach and liver ailments, skin diseases and some heart related diseases can all be aided with the use of turmeric plants. It can be utilized as a blood purifier, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant too. Growing turmeric and using the Curcumin from the plants may aid in the battle against certain types of cancer, including leukemia. Further studies have shown that turmeric plants may also be beneficial to those afflicted with Alzheimer’s disease. In China, the plants have been used as a treatment for depression. There are additional turmeric benefits to one’s daily life, such as its use in cosmetics or sunscreen, as a home remedy for sunburn, as a dye for the body or cloth, and even as a depilatory for Indian women. It is widely reputed to aid in digestion and for this reason is a major ingredient in Indian cuisine, including curry. Turmeric is also the ingredient which lends its brilliant yellow color to mustards.
Can You Grow Turmeric?
Can you grow turmeric? Sure, although turmeric plants are really better suited to open fields with a climate that is not easily found in North America. That said, with the correct conditions, I would give it a go. A hardy ginger, growing turmeric plants require certain conditions such as humid warm weather and significant rain. When growing these plants in the home or garden, temperatures between 68-86 F. (20-30 C.) are required.
How to Grow Turmeric?
These hardy ginger relatives die back in the winter and pop back up in the spring, growing from a system of rhizomes and propagating via vegetative reproduction. This means that each piece of rhizome has the capacity to become a new plant, provided each division has a piece of the crown. You can start growing turmeric this way with a small piece of rhizome gifted to you from another gardener or purchased from a nursery. Either way, you will soon have a forest of turmeric plants as they grow and spread rapidly. When one is growing turmeric, choose a morning sun exposure with afternoon part shade and moist clay to part clay soil. Planting takes place in the spring. Plant the section 4 inches deep, unless container gardening in which case 1 to 2 inches may be sufficient. Maintain adequate moisture and dig the roots up in late fall or early winter when the plant is dormant. Remember, these plants may be injured if temperatures fall below 50 F (10 C.).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Companion planting is a centuries-old technique that by locating various plants in close proximity, creates conditions that enhance growing conditions by repelling pests, attracting pollinators, and making the best use of available space. When it comes to companion plants for dill, most of the following suggestions have not been tested in scientific labs, but are highly recommended by experienced gardeners – often by trial and error.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
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