文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
When you think of cacti and other succulents, you probably think of dry, sandy, desert conditions. It’s hard to imagine that fungal and bacterial rots could grow in such dry conditions. Actually, cacti are susceptible to a number of rot diseases, just like any other plant. While oftentimes cactus rot diseases are caused by too much water and humidity, this article will specifically discuss Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Figuring out how to make a Christmas cactus bloom can be tricky for some. However, by following the proper watering guidelines and ensuring that just the right light and temperature conditions are given, learning to force a Christmas cactus to bloom can actually be quite easy.
How to Make Christmas Cactus Bloom
When you want to force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you need to begin by limiting the amount of water the plant receives. This generally takes place sometime during fall, usually around October or the first part of November. Cut down on watering just enough to allow the soil to remain slightly moist. Water only when the topmost (about 1 inch) layer of soil is dry to the touch. This will enable the plant to enter dormancy. Dormancy is critical for getting a Christmas cactus to bloom. In order to further force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you’ll need to move the plant where it will receive about 12-14 hours of darkness. Bright, indirect light during the day is fine; however, Christmas cactus requires at least 12 hours of darkness at night in order to encourage bud development. Your Christmas cactus, dark conditions aside, will also need cool temperatures. This should average out to about 50-55 degrees F. (12 C.). Therefore, make sure the location will accommodate both light and temperature requirements.
Care of Christmas Cactus in Bloom
Christmas cactus plants should continue receiving dark, cool treatment for at least 6-8 weeks, or until buds begin forming. Once buds have formed, it usually takes up to 12 weeks (or less) for blooms to appear. The plant should also be relocated at this time. Move the Christmas cactus to a sunny, draft-free area. However, keep it away from direct sunlight, as this may cause the plant to become droopy looking. Also, drafty areas can cause the buds to drop before blooming has occurred. Giving the plant more bright, indirect sunlight will produce more blooming. Christmas cactus also bloom better as pot-bound plants. While watering may be increased during blooming, the amount will vary according to the plant’s current light conditions, temperatures and humidity levels. When you force a Christmas cactus to bloom by giving it the proper care, in the right place, receiving the right light and temperature conditions, the Christmas cactus will not only bloom but may also surprise you by continually producing blooms several times throughout the year. Knowing how to make a Christmas cactus bloom will help you to enjoy the lovely flower on this popular plant.
How to Make Christmas Cactus Bloom
When you want to force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you need to begin by limiting the amount of water the plant receives. This generally takes place sometime during fall, usually around October or the first part of November. Cut down on watering just enough to allow the soil to remain slightly moist. Water only when the topmost (about 1 inch) layer of soil is dry to the touch. This will enable the plant to enter dormancy. Dormancy is critical for getting a Christmas cactus to bloom. In order to further force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you’ll need to move the plant where it will receive about 12-14 hours of darkness. Bright, indirect light during the day is fine; however, Christmas cactus requires at least 12 hours of darkness at night in order to encourage bud development. Your Christmas cactus, dark conditions aside, will also need cool temperatures. This should average out to about 50-55 degrees F. (12 C.). Therefore, make sure the location will accommodate both light and temperature requirements.
Care of Christmas Cactus in Bloom
Christmas cactus plants should continue receiving dark, cool treatment for at least 6-8 weeks, or until buds begin forming. Once buds have formed, it usually takes up to 12 weeks (or less) for blooms to appear. The plant should also be relocated at this time. Move the Christmas cactus to a sunny, draft-free area. However, keep it away from direct sunlight, as this may cause the plant to become droopy looking. Also, drafty areas can cause the buds to drop before blooming has occurred. Giving the plant more bright, indirect sunlight will produce more blooming. Christmas cactus also bloom better as pot-bound plants. While watering may be increased during blooming, the amount will vary according to the plant’s current light conditions, temperatures and humidity levels. When you force a Christmas cactus to bloom by giving it the proper care, in the right place, receiving the right light and temperature conditions, the Christmas cactus will not only bloom but may also surprise you by continually producing blooms several times throughout the year. Knowing how to make a Christmas cactus bloom will help you to enjoy the lovely flower on this popular plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant with bright blooms that appear around the winter holidays. Normally, blooms last at least one to two weeks. If conditions are just right, the impressive flowers may hang around for seven to eight weeks. Although the plant is relatively low-maintenance, dropping or wilting Christmas cactus blooms are usually an indication of improper watering or sudden temperature changes.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Anthracnose of agaves is bad news to be sure. The good news, however, is that although the fungus is unsightly, anthracnose on agave plants isn’t an automatic death sentence. The key is to improve growing conditions, and to treat the plant as soon as possible. Read on to learn how to prevent and control anthracnose of agaves.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Wave petunias are popular for their full spreading habit and ample bloom counts. They can tolerate heat and long periods between watering, but only under optimal conditions. If they're packed in close on soil that doesn't hold any water during hot, windy, dry months while insects are sucking every drop from their leaves, well, you'll need to give them some extra attention. Look at the specifics of the environment they're growing in before deciding you have a black thumb.
Spacing
Petunias can handle a crowd, but only if there is ample soil and a good watering schedule. If petunias are packed into a garden or, worse, packed into a planter, they will need frequent, deep watering to compete. Wave petunias spread, so plant them at least 1 1/2 feet from other plants. The roots spread, too. The roots need this space for root surface area to absorb more water.
Soil
Sandy soils drain and transpire quickly. This means water will get too low in the ground or rise to the surface and evaporate before the thirsty petunias can get to it. Loamy soils are better, and clay soils hold water best. A soil with a balance of all of these is ideal, since sand will keep the ground from getting soggy and hard-packed, loam will provide nutrients, and clay will hold water. Beware of super-light potting soil: it loses water very quickly.
Disease and Insect Issues
Look for other signs of problems with your wave petunias other than dry leaves and blooms. Are there spots or insects on the plant? Are some areas yellowing, turning brown or discoloring faster than others? If you can't identify the culprit, take one of your problem plants to a garden center. Be sure to take the entire plant, including the roots and a 3-inch by 3-inch section of the soil the roots are growing in. Many diseases or insect problems can be spotted easily by professionals who're used to seeing them.
Watering Habits
Often it's the simplest problem that's overlooked. It may seem like you're watering your petunias all the time, but check the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. If it's dry, then the petunias need a good, deep watering. You may have to boost your watering regime. Watch out for windy days or low humidity. Weather like this can suck the moisture out of the plants much more quickly, and you'll have to water sooner than you usually do.
Considerations
Invest in good, water-retaining soil before planting. If your petunias are already in the ground, mulch about 2 inches around the plants and water it in well. Dry mulch pulls moisture from the soil, too. Choose planting containers that are deep and wide to accommodate plenty of moisture-storing soil, and they should be made from a material such as durable plastic or ceramic that will not transpire easily. Don't overfertilize your petunias. The more you fertilize, the more they'll grow, and the more water those thirsty plants will need.
Spacing
Petunias can handle a crowd, but only if there is ample soil and a good watering schedule. If petunias are packed into a garden or, worse, packed into a planter, they will need frequent, deep watering to compete. Wave petunias spread, so plant them at least 1 1/2 feet from other plants. The roots spread, too. The roots need this space for root surface area to absorb more water.
Soil
Sandy soils drain and transpire quickly. This means water will get too low in the ground or rise to the surface and evaporate before the thirsty petunias can get to it. Loamy soils are better, and clay soils hold water best. A soil with a balance of all of these is ideal, since sand will keep the ground from getting soggy and hard-packed, loam will provide nutrients, and clay will hold water. Beware of super-light potting soil: it loses water very quickly.
Disease and Insect Issues
Look for other signs of problems with your wave petunias other than dry leaves and blooms. Are there spots or insects on the plant? Are some areas yellowing, turning brown or discoloring faster than others? If you can't identify the culprit, take one of your problem plants to a garden center. Be sure to take the entire plant, including the roots and a 3-inch by 3-inch section of the soil the roots are growing in. Many diseases or insect problems can be spotted easily by professionals who're used to seeing them.
Watering Habits
Often it's the simplest problem that's overlooked. It may seem like you're watering your petunias all the time, but check the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. If it's dry, then the petunias need a good, deep watering. You may have to boost your watering regime. Watch out for windy days or low humidity. Weather like this can suck the moisture out of the plants much more quickly, and you'll have to water sooner than you usually do.
Considerations
Invest in good, water-retaining soil before planting. If your petunias are already in the ground, mulch about 2 inches around the plants and water it in well. Dry mulch pulls moisture from the soil, too. Choose planting containers that are deep and wide to accommodate plenty of moisture-storing soil, and they should be made from a material such as durable plastic or ceramic that will not transpire easily. Don't overfertilize your petunias. The more you fertilize, the more they'll grow, and the more water those thirsty plants will need.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
While begonias produce lovely, delicate flowers, they are heat-loving annuals that landscapers depend upon for their toughness. Depending upon your landscape conditions, there is a begonia to fit the bill. Begonias come in many varieties, with light requirements ranging from full sun to heavy shade. In fact, there are over 1,500 named begonia species; this lists focuses on the most popular and readily available varieties. Remember that begonias are annuals, meaning they will not survive freezing temperatures. Unless you live in a tropical climate, you'll need to replant your begonias each year.
Bronze Leaf Begonias
Bronze leaf begonias have a reddish, bronze cast.
With their reddish, bronze-tinted leaves, bronze leaf sempenflorens begonias, also called wax begonias, are striking in appearance and tough in spirit. They can stand up to the summer sun in many parts of the country. However, in some very hot climates, bronze leaf begonias may scorch in full sun. Crispy brown leaf edges are a sign that your begonias need a break from the sun.
Green Leaf Begonias
Green leaf begonias have bright or light green leaves.
Also a sempenflorens or wax variety, green leaf begonias are very similar in appearance to their bronze leaf cousins, but can easily be distinguished by their bright green or light green leaves. While the bronze leaf varieties thrive in full sun, green leaf begonias require shade or dappled shade, with, at most, gentle morning sun. While they bloom no matter how high the temperature rises, they scorch in too much sun. Brown, dried leaf edges will alert you that your green leaf begonias are getting too much sun.
Angel Wing Begonias
Angel wing begonias have leaves that resemble wings.
Angel wing begonias, also called cane begonias or dragon wing begonias, can be identified by their wing-shaped leaves and bamboo-like stems. Angel wing begonias are some of the largest begonias, with cane-like stems that can grow up to 15 feet tall in tropical climates, where they have the opportunity to grow season after season. Angel wing begonias can take full sun in cooler months, but need some shade in hotter months. Growing them in pots allows you to move them throughout the growing season as necessary.
Tuberous Begonias
In general, tuberous begonias produce larger, more-rounded flowers than other types.
Like other types of begonias, tuberous begonias bloom all summer long regardless of the heat. Tuberous begonias do best in bright indirect light, protected from strong direct sunlight that can burn their tender leaves. Tuberous begonias are prized for their larger, rounded flowers. Unlike other begonia species, tuberous begonias grow from tubers, which can be dug up in the fall before the first freeze, stored over the winter and replanted the following spring.
Bronze Leaf Begonias
Bronze leaf begonias have a reddish, bronze cast.
With their reddish, bronze-tinted leaves, bronze leaf sempenflorens begonias, also called wax begonias, are striking in appearance and tough in spirit. They can stand up to the summer sun in many parts of the country. However, in some very hot climates, bronze leaf begonias may scorch in full sun. Crispy brown leaf edges are a sign that your begonias need a break from the sun.
Green Leaf Begonias
Green leaf begonias have bright or light green leaves.
Also a sempenflorens or wax variety, green leaf begonias are very similar in appearance to their bronze leaf cousins, but can easily be distinguished by their bright green or light green leaves. While the bronze leaf varieties thrive in full sun, green leaf begonias require shade or dappled shade, with, at most, gentle morning sun. While they bloom no matter how high the temperature rises, they scorch in too much sun. Brown, dried leaf edges will alert you that your green leaf begonias are getting too much sun.
Angel Wing Begonias
Angel wing begonias have leaves that resemble wings.
Angel wing begonias, also called cane begonias or dragon wing begonias, can be identified by their wing-shaped leaves and bamboo-like stems. Angel wing begonias are some of the largest begonias, with cane-like stems that can grow up to 15 feet tall in tropical climates, where they have the opportunity to grow season after season. Angel wing begonias can take full sun in cooler months, but need some shade in hotter months. Growing them in pots allows you to move them throughout the growing season as necessary.
Tuberous Begonias
In general, tuberous begonias produce larger, more-rounded flowers than other types.
Like other types of begonias, tuberous begonias bloom all summer long regardless of the heat. Tuberous begonias do best in bright indirect light, protected from strong direct sunlight that can burn their tender leaves. Tuberous begonias are prized for their larger, rounded flowers. Unlike other begonia species, tuberous begonias grow from tubers, which can be dug up in the fall before the first freeze, stored over the winter and replanted the following spring.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Impatiens (Impatiens wallerana) is an annual flower that thrives in partial to full shade. They produce colorful blooms from early summer to fall. Their leaves are an attractive dark green color, though under the wrong growing conditions, they may turn yellow.
Considerations
Downy mildew is a fungus disease that affects impatiens. In addition to premature leaf fall and stunting, other symptoms include yellowing leaves. Other diseases affecting impatiens include verticillium wilt and botrytis blight. Both diseases also cause leaves to turn yellow. Fungicides may help treat the impatiens in the early stages of any of these plant diseases.
Significance
Over-watering impatiens may cause leaves to turn yellow. To prevent this, keep the soil moist between waterings. Alternatively, too little water may cause impatiens' leaves to turn yellow as well. If the soil is dry and yellow leaves appear, it's time to water the impatiens.
Nutrient Deficiency
Impatiens requires a monthly application of a water-soluble fertilizer. Not getting the correct amount of fertilizer may stunt plant growth and turn leaves yellow. Always follow the recommended application rate when applying fertilizer to impatiens.
Considerations
Downy mildew is a fungus disease that affects impatiens. In addition to premature leaf fall and stunting, other symptoms include yellowing leaves. Other diseases affecting impatiens include verticillium wilt and botrytis blight. Both diseases also cause leaves to turn yellow. Fungicides may help treat the impatiens in the early stages of any of these plant diseases.
Significance
Over-watering impatiens may cause leaves to turn yellow. To prevent this, keep the soil moist between waterings. Alternatively, too little water may cause impatiens' leaves to turn yellow as well. If the soil is dry and yellow leaves appear, it's time to water the impatiens.
Nutrient Deficiency
Impatiens requires a monthly application of a water-soluble fertilizer. Not getting the correct amount of fertilizer may stunt plant growth and turn leaves yellow. Always follow the recommended application rate when applying fertilizer to impatiens.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias are bright and colorful annual flowers thriving throughout the country. They grow in both small and large varieties and bring color to all summertime gardens. They require the right season and conditions to maintain healthy stems, foliage and blooms. Petunias may go brown for a number of reasons.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies are so enchanting; it may come as a surprise that they are rugged plants that tolerate a variety of light conditions, including semi-darkness. Peace lilies can even survive a certain amount of neglect at the hands of busy or forgetful indoor gardeners. Do peace lilies need fertilizer? Believe it or not, many folks prefer to skip the fertilizer and their peace lily plants do just fine without it. However, fertilizing a peace lily now and then is important if you hope to encourage blooming. Read on to learn more about fertilizer for peace lilies.
When to Feed Peace Lily Plants
Peace lilies aren’t fussy and they really don’t need much fertilizer. The best time to apply peace lily fertilizer is when the plant is activity growing or producing blooms. As a general rule, two or three feedings throughout the growing season is plenty. If you choose to feed your plant more often, use a very diluted fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, as too much fertilizer may create brown spots on the leaves. If the flowers are a little green around the gills instead of creamy white, you are probably overdoing the fertilizer. Either cut back or dilute the concentration.
What is the Best Peace Lily Fertilizer?
When it comes to fertilizing a peace lily, any good quality, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer is fine. Look for a product with a balanced ratio, such as 20-20-20, diluted to one-half or one-quarter strength. Be sure to water after feeding your peace lily to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Never apply fertilizer to dry soil, which may scorch the roots.
When to Feed Peace Lily Plants
Peace lilies aren’t fussy and they really don’t need much fertilizer. The best time to apply peace lily fertilizer is when the plant is activity growing or producing blooms. As a general rule, two or three feedings throughout the growing season is plenty. If you choose to feed your plant more often, use a very diluted fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, as too much fertilizer may create brown spots on the leaves. If the flowers are a little green around the gills instead of creamy white, you are probably overdoing the fertilizer. Either cut back or dilute the concentration.
What is the Best Peace Lily Fertilizer?
When it comes to fertilizing a peace lily, any good quality, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer is fine. Look for a product with a balanced ratio, such as 20-20-20, diluted to one-half or one-quarter strength. Be sure to water after feeding your peace lily to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Never apply fertilizer to dry soil, which may scorch the roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
I received a Kalanchoe as a gift plant this summer and I am now struggling to get it to bloom anew. Kalanchoe is an African native that has become a common house guest in North American homes. These plants require low light conditions to force budding. Ideally, the plant should experience 14 hours of lightless conditions to promote budding and bloom. Getting Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a bit of a rest period for the plant, correct lighting and some good fertilizer to fuel the process. A few tips on how to make a Kalanchoe rebloom will ensure success and a beautiful flowering houseplant in winter. 
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Not everyone has the right growing conditions in which to enjoy a taste of the tropics in their garden. However, this doesn’t stop gardeners from enjoying the relaxed, yet elegant feel of tropical plants. Fan palm trees are among the most popular of indoor tropical plants and require bright light conditions and ample space to thrive. Keep reading for tips on growing fan palms.
Types of Fan Palms
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are very popular in the Florida landscape but also make an excellent indoor plant for a sunny room. This neat palm is slow growing and has a single, upright trunk and large leaves that can reach up to 6 feet in length. The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is an attractive, multi stemmed palm for indoor use. Fronds are fan-shaped and sit atop a 4-foot stem. Leaves are grayish-green in color and about 2 feet across at maturity.
Choosing Your Fan Palm Houseplant
The healthier your plant is when you bring it home, the likelier it is to thrive when given the correct attention. Don’t choose plants with extremely dry soil, browning leaves or apparent damage. Fan palms should have rich green foliage and an upright, healthy habit. Starting with a healthy plant will make it much easier to care for your new potted fan palm.
How to Grow Fan Palm Plants
Potting soil used for palm plants should be well draining and any container used for the plant should have ample drainage holes in the bottom. Soil should be moist at all times during the growing season, although it is essential to avoid over-saturation, which can lead to root rot. Growing fan palms isn’t difficult as long as you provide a room temperature of 55-60 F. (13-16 C.). Keep indoor palm plants away from heating or cooling vents or ceiling fans that may cause temperature fluctuations. Unlike many other types of palms, fan palms do best with at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. A south or west-facing window is best.
Fan Palm Care Tips
Allow the plant soil to dry out a little more in the winter than in the summer. A daily mist of water helps to keep humidity levels high. If frond tips become brown, the humidity is too low. A light fertilizer application from late winter through early fall helps fan palm plants remain vital. Spider mites like dusty foliage, so it is critical that fronds are wiped clean on a regular basis. If mites become a problem, use a soapy water mixture to control infestation.
Types of Fan Palms
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are very popular in the Florida landscape but also make an excellent indoor plant for a sunny room. This neat palm is slow growing and has a single, upright trunk and large leaves that can reach up to 6 feet in length. The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is an attractive, multi stemmed palm for indoor use. Fronds are fan-shaped and sit atop a 4-foot stem. Leaves are grayish-green in color and about 2 feet across at maturity.
Choosing Your Fan Palm Houseplant
The healthier your plant is when you bring it home, the likelier it is to thrive when given the correct attention. Don’t choose plants with extremely dry soil, browning leaves or apparent damage. Fan palms should have rich green foliage and an upright, healthy habit. Starting with a healthy plant will make it much easier to care for your new potted fan palm.
How to Grow Fan Palm Plants
Potting soil used for palm plants should be well draining and any container used for the plant should have ample drainage holes in the bottom. Soil should be moist at all times during the growing season, although it is essential to avoid over-saturation, which can lead to root rot. Growing fan palms isn’t difficult as long as you provide a room temperature of 55-60 F. (13-16 C.). Keep indoor palm plants away from heating or cooling vents or ceiling fans that may cause temperature fluctuations. Unlike many other types of palms, fan palms do best with at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. A south or west-facing window is best.
Fan Palm Care Tips
Allow the plant soil to dry out a little more in the winter than in the summer. A daily mist of water helps to keep humidity levels high. If frond tips become brown, the humidity is too low. A light fertilizer application from late winter through early fall helps fan palm plants remain vital. Spider mites like dusty foliage, so it is critical that fronds are wiped clean on a regular basis. If mites become a problem, use a soapy water mixture to control infestation.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Ground orchids flower year round and with the right conditions, they grow for years. They are native to south eastern Asia and the Philippines and they do well in pots as well as flower beds. They are plants that communicate their needs with several visual indicators, so as long as you know what the signs are, taking care of your ground orchid is simple.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Contrary to popular belief, orchids are not difficult to grow as houseplants. However, these exotic plants have different cultural needs than most varieties of houseplants. Prematurely wilting flowers are frequently a sign of incorrect growing conditions that affect the overall health of the plant. Providing the proper care encourages the growth of healthy foliage and abundant blossoms.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids bloom at various times throughout the year depending on the species and growing conditions. Cattleyas and phalaenopsis, for instance, tend to bloom in the spring while cymbidiums and oncidiums generally bloom in the winter. The flower stems will dry up and turn brown after the flowers fall, at which time they can be cut off. Where the stem or spike should be cut depends on the type, health and maturity of the orchid.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
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