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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bromeliads are fun, tough little plants that have become popular as houseplants. The Dyckia group of bromeliads primarily come from Brazil. What are Dyckia plants? These are semi-succulent rosettes that may produce some astounding flower spikes. Some of the varieties are terrestrial while others are found on rocks in their native range. They have remarkable drought tolerance for short periods of time and can even withstand a brief freeze. All in all, growing these plants is easy and rewarding, but a little Dyckia plant info should put you on the path to ensured success.
What are Dyckia Plants? Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
What is it about air plants (Tillandsia) that make them so fascinating? Air plants are epiphytic plants, which means that unlike most other plants, their survival doesn’t depend on soil. Instead, they draw moisture and nutrients through their leaves. Although air plant care is minimal, the plant can sometimes begin to look sickly – shriveled, limp, brown or droopy. Can you revive an air plant in this condition? Yes, at least if the plant isn’t too far gone. Read on to learn about reviving a Tillandsia.
How to Revive an Air Plant Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated. If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Air Plant Care To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (Some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week.
Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the neatest things about bromeliads are their flowers. The flowers can stay blooming for months, but eventually they fade and die. This doesn’t mean the plant is dying; it just means the plant is focusing energy on the leaves and roots. Do bromeliads flower once and never again? Some bromeliads bloom regularly while others don’t. Getting bromeliads to rebloom takes the patience of a saint, time and the right variety.
Care of Bromeliads after Flowering Bromeliads often come with their amazing flowers in bloom. These wonderful inflorescences last for months and the plant itself thrives with minimal care in bright indirect light. It is always sad to watch the bloom die, especially since the plant itself probably will not bloom. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel. With good bromeliad care after flowering, the plant will produce pups. Only mature bromeliads bloom; therefore, you can wait until a pup matures and enjoy the same flower spike. Bromeliads are denizens of tropical rainforests. They are epiphytic in nature and reproduce vegetatively by forming offsets or pups. Once the unique flower is spent, you should remove it so the plant can spend its energy on forming pups. Bromeliad care after flowering is much the same while it was in flower. The leaves form a cup in which you can pour water. Occasionally change the water in the cup and rinse the area to remove any salt or mineral build up. From spring until the dormant season in winter, mix a half dosage of liquid fertilizer every 2 months applied to the soil, not to the cup. Care of bromeliads after flowering is focused on getting vegetative growth and new pups so you can separate them for future blooming plants.
Getting Bromeliads to Rebloom Bromeliad flowers are such unexpected forms and colors. When the blooms are spent, the plant is still spectacular, but you miss the vibrant flower tones. Do bromeliads flower once? Yes, they do. It takes a mature plant to flower and once it does, it produces offsets and the main plant gradually begins to die. It can take years, but eventually all you will have left is its offspring. Luckily, each of these can be divided away, potted up and grown for a few years to maturity. If you are lucky, these will produce the same bloom as the parent plant. It is quite a long time to wait but may well be worth it since these plants need little special care.
Use sterile scissors or a knife to divide the pup away from the parent. You should wait to do this until the offset is a third the size of the parent. If necessary, you can trim back the parent plant’s leaves to allow more room for the pup to grow. Remove pups in spring for best results. Allow the wound to callus for one week. Mix a batch of medium with equal parts bark nuggets, perlite and peat. Insert the cut end of the pup and any roots into the medium. The pup may need support for the first few weeks as more extensive roots are grown. Otherwise, the same care you gave the parent will produce a healthy plant. To help it bloom, you can add time release fertilizer in spring around the soil medium.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bromeliad plants provide an exotic touch to the home and bring a sense of the tropics and sun-kissed climates. Growing a bromeliad as a houseplant is easy and brings interesting texture and color to the interior garden. Learn how to care for a bromeliad plant and you will have a long lasting unique houseplant that is low maintenance.
Bromeliad Plants The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting. Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Boston fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata bostoniensis) is a dependable, old-fashioned charmer that decorates the environment with cascades of graceful, deep green fronds. Boston fern is a tropical plant that thrives with minimal care; however, light requirements for Boston ferns is a critical aspect of successful growing. Keep reading to learn about Boston fern light needs, including Boston fern light conditions.
How Much Light Does a Boston Fern Need? Boston fern light needs vary depending on the time of year. The plant benefits from bright, indirect light during fall and winter. A location where the plant gets at least two hours of indirect sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or late afternoon, is ideal. Boston fern light conditions must change when sunlight is more intense in spring and summer. During the sunny time of year, the fern needs a semi-shady location, such as a window with a northern exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight from a window with southern or western exposure unless the window is protected by a sheer curtain, or if the window is shaded by a tall outdoor tree. Consider two important factors when you think about Boston fern indoor light any time of year. Boston fern won’t tolerate bright sunlight or total shade.
First, avoid intense, direct light, which can scorch the fronds. Secondly, keep in mind that without adequate sunlight, the plant won’t thrive and is likely to drop its leaves. Now that you know about Boston fern light conditions, you can consider the plant’s other needs, which aren’t complicated. Water the plant deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly before you return the plant to its drainage saucer. If the indoor air is dry, place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles to raise the humidity around the plant, but never let the pot sit in water.
Fertilize the fern every four to six weeks during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or use organic fish emulsion. Mist the plant occasionally to clean dust from the leaves, but don’t overdo; damp fronds are more susceptible to disease. Snip old fronds at soil level to generate healthy new growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) are old-fashioned ferns with beautiful arching fronds. They require adequate sunlight, water and nutrients to thrive, and good cultural practices help keep your fern healthy. If your fern doesn’t get the best care – or even if it does – it may be attacked by Boston fern diseases. Read on to learn more about diseases of Boston fern plants.
Common Boston Fern Problems If you fail to water your potted fern appropriately, over or under irrigation can lead to unhealthy Boston ferns. Most fern instructions advise you to keep the soil constantly moist. But this is not the same as allowing the soil to be wet or the plant to become water-logged. To avoid issues with Boston ferns, water the plant thoroughly when the top of the soil is dry. Keep watering until it leaks from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not water again until the soil surface is dry. Failure to water sufficiently can lead to graying, one of the most common Boston fern problems. Graying is often the result of drought conditions. You’ll know if your plant has this condition when the leaves turn gray and the plant may seem to stop growing. Increasing irrigation should resolve this.
Although many gardeners consider tropical ferns low-life plants, Boston ferns need adequate light. If they do not get a medium amount of light – at least two hours of indirect light all year round – their fronds become long and pendulous. This is termed weak frond and is resolved by increasing light. Boston Fern Diseases If the fronds of your Boston fern turn gray and you’ve been watering properly, the next disease to consider is Pythium root rot. The fronds can also wilt or grow stunted. To confirm root rot, look at the roots of your unhealthy Boston ferns. If they are brown and stunted, it is likely root rot. The best way to prevent a Boston fern from getting root rot is to buy disease-free plants and pathogen free potting soil. You can also check in your garden store for chemicals that control this disease in Boston ferns.
These tips are also appropriate for preventing and treating other Boston fern diseases such as Rhizoctonia aerial blight. In blight, dark lesions develop rapidly on the foliage and roots. Unchecked, the entire plant is eventually covered with the pathogen’s brown web-like mycelium. If you opt to use chemicals to treat this disease, treat the soil as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Boston ferns are fabulously popular houseplants. Hardy in USDA zones 9-11, they are kept indoors in pots in most regions. Capable of growing 3 feet (0.9 m) high and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, Boston ferns can brighten any room with their lush green foliage. That’s why it can be so disheartening to see your vibrant green fern fronds turning black or brown. Keep reading to learn what causes a Boston fern with black fronds, and what to do about it.
Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black Isn’t Always Bad There is one case in which a Boston fern with black fronds is perfectly natural, and it’s good to be able to spot it. You may see small black spots on the undersides of your fern’s leaves, lined up in regular rows. These spots are spores, and they’re the fern’s way of reproducing. Eventually, the spores will drop to the soil below and grow into reproductive structures. If you see these spots, don’t take any action! It’s a sign that your fern is healthy. Your fern will also experience some natural browning as it ages. As new growth emerges, the oldest leaves at the bottom of the fern will wither and turn brown to black to make way for new growth. This is totally normal. Cut away the discolored leaves to keep the plant looking fresh.
When Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black is Not Good Boston fern fronds turning brown or black may also signal trouble, however. If your fern’s leaves are suffering from brown or black spots or strips, there may be nematodes in the soil. Add lots of compost to the soil – this will encourage the growth of beneficial fungi that should destroy the nematodes. If the infestation is bad, remove any infected plants. Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants.
Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants. Leaf tip burn manifests as browning and withering tips on fronds and leaves. Destroy any infected plants. Rhizoctonia Blight appears as irregular brownish-black spots that start near the crown of the fern but spread very rapidly. Spray with fungicide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) are popular houseplants and proper Boston fern care is essential to keeping this plant healthy. Learning how to take care of a Boston fern isn’t difficult, but it is specific. Below, we have listed a few care tips for a Boston fern so that you can provide everything your fern needs to be happy and beautiful.
How to Take Care of a Boston Fern The first thing you need to do for proper Boston fern care is to make sure that it’s in the right kind of environment. Boston ferns need a cool place with high humidity and indirect light. When you care for Boston fern plants indoors, it’s a good idea to provide additional humidity for them, especially in the winter. Most homes are rather dry, even more when heaters are running. For extra humidity care for Boston fern, try setting your fern’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. You can also try lightly misting your fern once or twice a week to help it get the humidity it needs. Another step in how to take care of a Boston fern is to make sure that the fern’s soil remains damp. Dry soil is one of the number one reasons that Boston ferns die. Check the soil daily and make sure to give it some water if the soil feels at all dry. Because Boston ferns tend to be planted in potting mixtures that are high in peat moss, it is a good idea to soak the pot of the Boston fern once a month or so to make sure the peat moss is fully hydrated. Be sure to let it drain thoroughly after this.
Boston fern leaves will turn yellow if the humidity is not high enough. If your Boston fern’s fronds are turning yellow, make sure to increase the humidity around the plant One of the lesser known care tips for a Boston fern is that they do not need much fertilizer. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant a few times a year. Boston ferns are susceptible to some pests, especially spider mites and mealybugs. If your plant becomes infested, make sure to treat the plant as quickly as possible to keep it healthy.
Boston fern care is as simple as making sure the plant is in the right environment. If you make sure that your fern is getting the right care for Boston fern plant, your plant will live for many years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
When most people think of ferns, they think of feathery, airy fronds, but not all ferns actually look like this. The bird’s nest fern is an example of a fern that defies our preconceived ideas of what a fern should look like. Even better is the fact that a bird’s nest fern plant makes an excellent low light houseplant.
About the Bird’s Nest Fern Plant The bird’s nest fern plant gets its name from the fact that the center of the plant resembles a bird’s nest. It is also occasionally called a crow’s nest fern. Bird’s nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are identified by their flat, wavy or crinkly fronds. Their appearance can bring to mind a seaweed plant growing on dry land. Bird’s nest fern is an epiphytic fern, which means in the wild it typically grows on other things, like tree trunks or buildings. When you buy it as a houseplant, it will be planted in a container, but it can be affixed to planks and hung on a wall much like staghorn ferns.
How to Grow Bird’s Nest Fern Bird’s nest ferns grow best in medium to low indirect light. These ferns are often grown for their crinkly leaves and the light they receive will affect how crinkled the leaves are. A bird’s nest fern that receives more light, for example, will have more crinkled leaves, while one that receives less light will have flatter leaves. Keep in mind that too much light or direct light will cause the fronds on bird’s nest fern to yellow and die. Care for a Bird’s Nest Fern In addition to light, another important aspect of bird’s nest fern care is its watering. Under ideal circumstances, all ferns would like to have consistently moist, but not wet, soil. However, part of the reason that bird’s nest fern makes an ideal houseplant is that it will tolerate soil that dries out from time to time.
Furthermore, this plant does not require the same level of humidity that many other kinds of ferns need, making the care for a bird’s nest fern far more forgiving to the occasionally forgetful houseplant owner than other ferns. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant two to three times a year. Even then, the fertilizer should only be applied at half strength and should only be given during the spring and summer months. Too much fertilizer will cause deformed leaves with brown or yellow spots or edges. Now that you know more about how to grow bird’s nest fern and how easy these plants are to grow, try giving them a place in your home. They make a wonderful and green addition to the less brightly lit rooms in your home.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dummer. ゛☀
The bird’s nest fern is a popular, attractive fern that defies the usual fern preconceptions. Instead of the feathery, segmented foliage usually associated with ferns, this plant has long, solid fronds that have a crinkly appearance around their edges. It gets its name from the crown, or center of the plant, that resembles a bird’s nest. It’s an epiphyte, which means it grows clinging to other objects, like trees, rather than in the ground. So how do you go about propagating one of these ferns? Keep reading to learn more about how to collect spores from ferns and bird’s nest fern spore propagation.
Collecting Spores from Bird’s Nest Ferns Bird’s nest ferns reproduce through spores, which appear as little brown spots on the undersides of the fronds. When the spores on a frond are fat and a little fuzzy looking, remove a frond and place it in a paper bag. Over the course of the next few days, the spores should fall from the frond and collect in the bottom of the bag.
Bird’s Nest Fern Spore Propagation Bird’s nest spore propagation works best in sphagnum moss, or peat moss that has been supplemented with dolomite. Place the spores on top of the growing medium, leaving them uncovered. Water the pot by placing it in a dish of water and let the water soak up from the bottom.
It’s important to keep your bird’s nest fern spores moist. You can cover your pot with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, or leave it uncovered and mist it daily. If you do cover the pot, remove the cover after 4 to 6 weeks. Keep the pot in a shady spot. If kept at a temperature between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.), the spores should germinate in about two weeks. The ferns grow best in low light and high humidity at a temperature of 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.).
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