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Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Miss Chen
Wilting in plants occurs when dehydration causes the cells in the leaves and stems to lose water. This water pressure, called turgor pressure, creates rigidity in leaves and stems. With loss of turgor pressure, the plant is unable to support itself. Leaves wilt and then become dry and die.
It is normal for cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) to wilt in the afternoon during hot weather, but wilting in the morning, dry foliage or dying leaves suggest a potential problem. Abnormal wilting in these annual vegetables can have several causes. Growing Conditions Before considering pests and diseases that cause cucumbers to wilt, assess the growing conditions of your plants to evaluate what might be causing your cucumbers to lose water. Water Cucumbers have a shallow root system and require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Plants can wilt and dry out during periods of low to no rainfall. Rather than watering lightly every day, cucumbers should receive a single watering to 6 inches deep every five to seven days. Using mulch also helps to keep the soil around your plants moist. Somewhat counterintuitively, overwatering can cause similar symptoms to dehydration. Too much water damages the plant's roots and affects its intake of oxygen and nutrients. Cucumbers that receive too much water can wilt and die, just like plants that don't receive enough.
Soil Cucumbers need well-draining soil. Heavy clay soil or soil low on organic matter that drains poorly can cause too much water to collect around the roots of plants, causing them to wilt and die. Correcting a soil drainage problem midseason can be difficult. Adding compost or mulch around your plants can begin to provide the organic material needed to amend the soil in the long term. For future plantings, add 3 to 4 inches of organic matter such as compost or rotted manure for every 6 inches of clay soil. For every 6 inches of sandy or loam soil, add 1 to 2 inches of organic matter. Mix these amendments into the soil before planting your cucumbers. Planting cucumbers on mounds also helps to drain excess moisture away from plant roots. Temperature During cool, wet weather -- air temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or soil temperatures below 62 F -- cucumber plants may become yellow and wilted, and the edges of the leaves may turn brown. Floating row covers -- light fabric sheets that can cover an entire row of plants -- can raise temperatures several degrees around the plant and help cold-sensitive plants like cucumbers to withstand cold snaps. Once the cool spell passes, cucumbers must be uncovered to allow pollinating insects access to the flowers. Otherwise, your plants will not produce fruit. Pests Pest damage to the vines and stems of cucumber plants can prevent water from reaching the leaves and cause plants to wilt. Squash Bugs Squash bugs can affect all cucurbit plants, including cucumbers. Adults are elongated, shield-shaped insects about an inch long, but you will generally notice the immature nymphs or eggs on your plants first. Nymphs have pale green or bluish gray bodies with dark-colored legs, and they typically cluster together. Squash bugs generally lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves in the fork where leaf veins meet. Eggs are copper-colored and are generally laid in orderly rows. Squash bugs feed on the stems of cucumber plants, draining the plant of water and nutrients and causing the leaves to wilt. You may also observe yellow spots or leaves browning and dying on the plant. Mature plants can withstand mild infestations, but serious infestations or infestations on young plants can kill your cucumbers. Begin monitoring your garden in early June for squash bug activity, as the eggs and nymphs are easier to spot and destroy than the adults. Insecticides are rarely required for squash bug infestations. Instead, inspect plants every few days and drown nymphs and adults in a jar of warm, soapy water. Crush any eggs that you find. You can trap squash bugs by placing boards in your garden overnight. Adult squash bugs will hide under the boards and can be collected and destroyed in the morning. Remove weeds and dead plant material from the area around your cucumbers to eliminate hiding places for squash bugs. At the end of the season, remove old cucumber vines to minimize sites for squash bugs to overwinter. Squash Vine Borers Cucumbers can also be afflicted by the squash vine borer, although this pest generally prefers squash and pumpkins. Adult insects -- wasp-like moths distinguished by their gray wings and orange bodies -- lay their eggs at the base of cucumber vines. When the larvae emerge, they burrow into the vines to feed, disrupting the passage of water into the leaves, which can cause wilting. Leaves served by that vine will eventually die. You can diagnose a problem with squash vine borers by observing whether there are holes at the base of the vine; the hole is often surrounded by an orange or green sawdustlike material called frass. Begin monitoring plants in late June for the presence of adult squash vine borers. You can place a yellow-colored pan filled with water near your plants; yellow attracts adult borers, and the moths will drown in the water. If you observe adults, cover your plants with floating row covers for two weeks. Once borer larvae have burrowed into a vine, the pest cannot be controlled. Promptly remove any dead borer-infested vines from the garden, since after emerging from the vine, larvae will overwinter in the soil and could reinfest your plants the following year. Diseases Bacterial Wilt Bacterial wilt is a disease spread to cucumbers by the cucumber beetle, a small yellow beetle with black stripes or spots. These beetles spread the disease from plant to plant as they feed. Leaves turn pale green and begin to wilt during the day, but they initially recover at night. Leaves then begin to turn yellow or brown around the edges, and wilting becomes more severe and begins to progress down the vine. Cucumbers wilt and die quickly after infection begins. There is no treatment for bacterial wilt. Remove and bury infected plants as quickly as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants. Phytophthora Blight Phytophthora blight can cause wilting leaves in cucumbers, although this disease tends to affect squash and pumpkin more often. The disease is caused by a fungus that grows best in warm weather following heavy rains or very wet conditions. In addition to wilting leaves, affected plants show yellow leaves and rotten spots on the leaves, vines and fruit. Phytophthora blight can spread quickly and kill an entire cucumber crop. Fungicides are not very effective against Phytophthora blight, and the best strategies against the disease are preventative. Remove any infected vines and fruit immediately from your garden and bury them. Do not compost them or leave them near your garden, as spores can spread. Choose a well-draining site for growing cucumbers, control weeds in the area, do not work in the garden during wet conditions and water your cucumbers at the base of the plant rather than overhead. Fusarium Wilt Fusarium wilt, which is caused by a fungus, often appears first as wilting during the day followed by recovery at night. Growth may be stunted, leaves may yellow and show rotted lesions and a pink fungus may grow on vines. Fusarium wilt cannot be treated, and because the fungus can endure in the soil for years, future crops in the area may continue to be affected. In areas affected by Fusarium wilt, you should plant only wilt-resistant cultivars.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Miss Chen
Identifying vegetable vines is fairly simple because only a few vegetable plants -- beans, peas, tomatoes and cucurbits -- have a vining habit. Most vegetables, such as lettuce, carrots, peppers, corn and broccoli, have an upright habit. Bush varieties of beans, tomatoes, melons and squash may not vine either, but have a compact, upright form. With the exception of peas, which thrive in cool, spring weather, all vining vegetable plants thrive in warm, sunny conditions and need 2 to 3 months of summer weather to mature.
Step 1 Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties. Step 2 Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3 Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across. Step 4 Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Miss Chen
Red hot cherry peppers also are referred to as cherry bomb peppers. The hot peppers are added to dishes such as salsa and chili due to their extreme heat. The peppers have a similar appearance to cherries. The thick-fleshed oval peppers mature from green to red in color. After the peppers ripen on the plant, they are then harvested carefully to prevent injury to the plant. Harvesting the peppers regularly will allow the cherry pepper plant to continue to produce peppers throughout the growing season.
Step 1 Inspect the red hot cherry peppers daily, 65 to 70 days after you transplant them. The cherry peppers are ready to harvest once they reach 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches in size. Step 2 Examine the color of the cherry peppers. Cherry peppers start out green in color and then ripen to a bright red. Harvest the cherry peppers when they are uniformly red in color.
Step 3 Slice the stem of the pepper plant with a sharp knife. Leave 1 inch of the stem attached to the pepper. Step 4 Harvest the pepper plants as they ripen. Harvest all the cherry peppers when the threat of frost arrives because the cold weather will damage them.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Miss Chen
Jalapeno peppers are prized for their spicy, fresh flavor and fiery-hot zing. They're often added to Mexican, Thai and American dishes. If you love cooking and eating spicy foods, you have probably cooked with jalapenos. However, many wonder what to do with their seeds after chopping up the pepper's flesh.
Add Seeds to the Dish You're Cooking Jalapeno seeds are where this pepper stores much of its fire. If you like spicy-hot food, add the seeds to your dish along with the chopped jalapeno pepper flesh. The more seeds added, the hotter the spice. Add a little at a time until you get your preferred heat level. Dry Them and Plant Them Save the seeds and plant them. Choose a ripe jalapeno pepper that turned red and is starting to wrinkle. Cut it open, remove the seeds, spread them out in a single layer and air dry them. Put the dried seeds in a tightly sealed glass jar and store them in a cool, dry place, such as the refrigerator, until ready for planting. Do not freeze them. Dry Them for Cooking Use dried jalapeno seeds for cooking. Air dry or oven dry them. To oven dry them, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake them at 135 degrees until they are fully dehydrated. Store them in a tightly sealed jar until ready for use. Sprinkle them on pizza, eggs, tacos, nachos or any dish that you'd like to spice up.
Discard Them It is certainly fine to throw the seeds away. If your dinner is spicy enough for your taste and you don't need jalapeno seeds for planting, don't feel like you must save them. Safe Pepper Handling Jalapenos are very hot and can burn skin, eyes and nasal passages. When chopping or handling chopped jalapenos, wear rubber gloves or place plastic bags over your hands. Do not touch your eyes with your hands until you have taken off your gloves and washed your hands. Do not place your face near the chopped peppers and breath in deeply, as the fumes are irritating.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Miss Chen
Blanching is a process in which foods are scalded briefly then cooled down immediately to allow them to be stay fresh longer and prevent discoloration. It can be time consuming and is not always necessary. If you spend a lot of time in the garden already, you likely want to get your harvest sealed up and stored as easily and quickly as possible. If done correctly, you can freeze unblanched raw cabbage for up to several weeks without compromising its natural texture and flavor.
Step 1 Wash each head of cabbage thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove any dirt. Pat dry with a soft towel. Step 2 Cut each head into quarters. You should be left with four wedges for each head of cabbage. Step 3 Individually wrap each quarter with clear plastic wrap. Make sure there are no gaps in the plastic where air can reach the cabbage. Place the individually wrapped wedges in freezer bags.
Step 4 Write the cabbage harvest date on each freezer bag with permanent marker. Place in a freezer and use within three months.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Miss Chen
Collard greens are lush, leafy vegetables that thrive in warm weather and serve as nutritious crops for a vegetable garden. Although they are cool-weather crops, tolerant of frost and averse to sweltering heat, collard greens are susceptible to bolting when temperatures are too low. When the flowering stalk shoots up from collards, optimal leaf flavor may be lost. All you can do to try to save the greens is cut the flowering stem.
Bolting Bolting, or the development of a flowering stalk, occurs in all types of leafy vegetables for various reasons. As it occurs, the leaves diminish in size and grow bitter. Leaves grow inedible as energy flows to flowers and stalks. In the case of collard greens, bolting occurs when it is planted too early in spring, when temperatures are too cold. Some collard varieties are slow to bolt, including Georgia LS and Flash. What to Do The best advice when confronted with bolting collards is to immediately harvest the leaves or attempt to slow the bolting by removing the flower stalks. Bolting does not mean your harvest is lost, although it can diminish the collard greens' flavor. You will probably be unable to prevent the bolting from occurring, as it is a reaction to environmental conditions over time. The more a collard green plant develops its flower stalk, the less edible the greens will be, so it's beneficial to harvest as quick as possible to retain as much flavor and nutrition as possible. Prevention To prevent bolting, gowers must avoid planting collard greens, like any other cole crop, too early. Sow seeds in early spring to harvest in summer, or midway through summer for a fall/early winter harvest. Avoid planting if temperatures are expected to be below 50 F over an extended time. Select varieties of collards that are especially resistant to bolting, as listed above. Remove flowering stalks and stems as they emerge to encourage energy production in leaves.
Harvest If all goes well, harvested collard greens will be smooth, large and nutritious. All green parts of the plant are edible. Collard greens are a low-calorie source of numerous minerals and vitamins including vitamins A, C and K. Tough and fibrous, they require lots of cooking, which turns their leaves dark green. You can harvest collard greens by cutting down entire plants or by pulling off large leaves as they develop.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Miss Chen
Carrots are sweet root vegetables that grow best in the early spring. The produce contains a high amount of vitamin A and fiber. Sometimes harvested carrots may not taste sweet. A bitter-tasting carrot may leave you feeling discouraged about growing your own carrots. Knowing why your carrots taste bitter can help you salvage your crops so that you can enjoy their pleasant and naturally sweet flavor.
High Temperatures Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible. Aster Yellows Disease Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right. Improper Storage After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Miss Chen
Gardeners often place matchsticks in the soil beneath green peppers (Capsicum annuum Grossum Group) when setting them out to feed those plants' love of sulfur. Because peppers prefer a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, the acidifying chemical does help provide optimum conditions for them, so their use isn't just an old wives' tale. The number of matches recommended varies from two or three per plant to an entire book (20) per plant. If you have other uses for matches, you can add a small amount of garden sulfur to each planting hole instead. Await Warmth Peppers must have warm conditions to thrive, so don't set them out until after the last spring frost. Wait until the soil temperature is 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures have climbed above 55 degrees F., daytime ones above 70 degrees F.
Harden Seedlings If you started pepper plants indoors, begin taking them outdoors for a few hours every day. Set them in the shade at first, and gradually extend their outdoor time while moving them into more sun. Prepare Holes Plant peppers in full sun, in fertile, well-drained soil. First, make a 6-inch-deep hole, partially filling that excavation with 2 inches of compost and about 1/2 cup of 5-10-10 organic fertilizer. Work those amendments into the bottom of the hole with a trowel. Add Matchsticks After removing the cover from a book of matches, place the matches atop the just-worked soil. If you prefer to use garden sulfur instead, add 1 teaspoon of it. To avoid shocking the seedling, cover the matches or sulfur with 1 to 2 additional inches of soil so the amendments don't come in direct contact with the plant until it is well-established. You then can set a pepper in the hole, loosening its roots if they have become matted together, and positioning the plant slightly deeper than it grew in its container.
After filling in the soil around its roots, pat the soil down and water it well. If you wish to set out more than one pepper, space the plants 18 inches apart and their rows 24 inches apart. Water Plants Keep the peppers' soil damp while they are becoming established, providing them with at least 1 inch of water per week, via rain or irrigation. To help maintain their soil's moisture and discourage weeds, mulch the plants with up to 2 inches of a light organic material such as straw or shredded dead leaves.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Miss Chen
Sprout beans at home for a constant source of cheap and nutritious fresh vegetables. Home production using organic seeds purchased from a trusted source avoids the rare health concerns over mass-produced sprouts. Compare soy, mung, lentil and adzuki bean sprouts to learn their particular flavors. Wash your hands before handling sprouts, rinse thoroughly before eating and keep seeds in a cool and dry place.
Nutritional Values Soy and mung bean sprouts are year-round sources of low-fat food that contain no cholesterol. They both contain B vitamins, including thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid. They're also good sources of dietary fiber and vegetarian protein. Soybeans contain 20 to 25 percent vegetable protein; mung beans contain 22 percent. Six oz. of mung beans contain 60 calories and the same amount of soybeans has 200 calories. Both kinds of sprouts are at their most nutritious as soon as tiny green leaves show at the tips. Growing Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts Some beans are easier to sprout than others. Mung beans need eight to 12 hours of soaking, sprout in two to five days and keep for two to six weeks. Soybeans are more difficult to sprout, often splitting open, discoloring and developing a bitter taste if not used when very young. Soybeans require soaking for between two and four hours, sprout in two to six days, keep refrigerated for two to four weeks and yield double the amount of sprouts to beans. Uses of Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts Mung beans are the most common and easily available type of sprouts. They feature largely in Asian cuisines and have a sweet, nutty flavor and crisp texture. Uses include adding to cooked dishes at the end of the process. These thick-stemmed sprouts can withstand several minutes worth of cooking. Mung beans sprouts can be stir-fried or cooked in traditional Chinese dishes like chicken chow mein and chop suey, or eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Soybeans have a more pronounced bean-like flavor and are often preferred cooked, even by enthusiastic sprout eaters. Soybeans are harder to digest when raw, so try cooking them in stews and soups, or adding to a stir-fry. Served raw or cooked, 12 oz. of either mung or soy bean sprouts are enough to serve in salads or as a side dish for between four and six guests. Rinse both types of sprouts well before cooking or eating raw.
Health Benefits The benefits of mung beans are those associated with all bean sprouts. They contain the dietary necessities of fresh vegetable protein and fiber, as well as C and B vitamins. Soybean sprouts also confer the same protective benefits as other soy products like tofu, tempeh, soy milk and soy sauce. These benefits include possible reductions of the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. In Asia, where consumption rates of soybean products are high, rates of prostrate and breast cancers are low. Active ingredients thought to be responsible for this protection action are the substances daidzein and genistein. Women with estrogen-positive breast cancer must avoid soybean sprouts, because they contain plant hormones that may stimulate the growth of their tumors.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Miss Chen
White, dying leaves on zucchini are discouraging, but there is a solution. The white coating is caused by two common diseases that attack plants in the cucurbit family: powdery mildew and downy mildew. Both of these diseases can be present on a zucchini plant at the same time. Powdery mildew is a fungus, while downy mildew is more closely related to algae. These diseases have caused heavy economic losses in agricultural crops. In July of 2004, the remnants of a hurricane carried downy mildew spores up the eastern seaboard from North Carolina to New York, causing severe crop devastation.
Downy Mildew Downy mildew spores are a purplish-gray and are only found on the undersides of the leaves, often first appearing as a water-soaked area. The symptoms of downy mildew only occur on the leaves; green leaf petioles often still hold the dead leaf tissue upright. Angular spots start out pale green and turn yellow, eventually causing tissue death. Several spots often join into a group. Identification can be challenging, since spores are not always present. Downy mildew spores cannot survive extreme cold temperatures, and they are only found when conditions are favorable during the warmer months. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is easily recognizable by its white talcum-powder appearance. Powdery mildew is a host-specific fungus, meaning the pathogen that attacks one plant won't attack another. The fungus that attacks zucchini can also infect other members of the cucurbit family. The white, powdery growth appears on both the bottom and top of leaves and on petioles and stems. It first strikes the crown leaves, shaded lower leaves and the undersides of leaves of older plants. Yellow spots appear, which quickly spread and cause leaf death.
Dissemination Spores of powdery mildew are carried by water, wind and rain. They routinely travel long distances carried by storm systems that affect wide areas. In the home garden, the spores are often carried on clothing or spread by handling of infected plants. Overhead watering spreads spores by splashing them from one plant to another. Prevention and Control Planting resistant varieties of zucchini is always the first and best means of preventing these diseases. Downy and powdery mildew thrive in warm, moist areas with poor air circulation. Plant zucchini plants far enough apart to allow air to circulate freely, and water plants in the early morning hours to allow the leaves to dry quickly. Drip irrigation is beneficial for controlling water-splashed spread of the spores. Regular spraying every seven to ten days with broad spectrum fungicides before or at the first sign of infection provides some measure of control. Liquid copper and a solution of baking soda and water are organic alternatives. Always spray plants early in the morning and cover all areas of the plant with the fungicide solution. Fungi cannot thrive in an alkaline environment, so a baking soda solution sprayed regularly may prevent infection.
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