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Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Miss Chen
Capsicum annuum "Inferno Hot Peppers" are a mildly hot chili pepper that are best used fresh or pickled. The Inferno pepper plant produces an abundant yield with a long harvest time. Once peppers on the plant begin to mature, continual picking and harvesting of Inferno peppers will promote more pepper production.
Days to Maturity Inferno hot peppers mature earlier than many other pepper plants and you can begin harvesting sooner. Seed germination to fruit maturity is around 62 days, though because the Inferno pepper plant continues to produce peppers until the first frost, the harvesting of your Inferno peppers will last four to six weeks. Planting your Inferno pepper seeds after the threat of frost in the spring will have you picking the first ripe peppers by mid August, continuing into late September. Size The size of an Inferno pepper is an indication that it is ready to be picked. Inferno peppers have an elongated banana shape. Mature peppers will be 6 to 8 inches long and 1 to 1.5 inches wide. The Inferno hot pepper plant grows very uniformly shaped peppers, and it will be easy to distinguish the mature fruit from immature by the large, elongated size.
Color Using the color of any variety of pepper is one of the easiest and best ways to know when to pick it. Inferno hot peppers first turn a lime green, which fades to yellow, then can turn red on the plant. At each of these color stages, the Inferno pepper can be harvested, depending on the level of spiciness you want. At the somewhat immature stage of lime green, the pepper will be very mild. Yellow-colored Inferno peppers are at the peak of ripeness and flavor. Allowing the pepper to turn red on the plant will give you the hottest flavor. Storage Inferno peppers are a thick-walled, fleshy, mildly hot pepper, which makes them ideal for roasting, pickling or using fresh. Because of the thick walls, this pepper should be dried because the inner flesh of the pepper may not completely dry before developing mold or rot. Fresh-picked Inferno peppers can be refrigerated for up to two weeks, or frozen in an airtight container for two to three months, retaining its peak flavor.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Miss Chen
Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) are annual vining plants that love hot, sunny days. There are over a hundred varieties, ranging from traditional orange to white, pink and almost red. Pumpkins may be round, flattened or pear-shaped; they range in size too, from "Small Sugar" pumpkins that average 6 to 8 inches in diameter and 5 to 8 pounds to the "Atlantic Giant" that grows to several feet across and over 1,000 pounds. In general, smaller pumpkins have a shorter growing season, and the largest pumpkins take longer to mature. Ideal Location
Pumpkins grow best when direct seeded, and they prefer full sun and well drained soil with a pH of 7.0. Work decomposed manure or compost into the soil the fall before spring planting. Spread 2 inches of compost or manure over the soil and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Pumpkins are a vining plant and will sprawl almost anywhere you let them. Choose Varieties
Pumpkins grow best when seeded directly into the garden. You can start seeds indoors, but pumpkins do not transplant well because their roots are sensitive to disturbance. Depending on the variety, pumpkins require anywhere from 85 to 130 days to grow from seed. Choose a variety that will grow to full maturity within your growing season. In areas with short growing seasons, good choices may be the heirloom "Lakota," which matures at 5 to 7 pounds in 85 to 100 days, or "Sugar Pie," which matures at 7 pounds in 100 days. If you have a longer growing season, you could try growing "Howden," the commercial Halloween pumpkin, which grows to at least 20 pounds and requires 115 days. Planting
Plant pumpkin seeds when the soil has warmed to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and all danger of frost has passed. Form hills by mounding the soil into soft mounds about 8 to 10 inches high and 1 foot in diameter. Space the hills 4 to 8 feet apart. Before planting, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of 4-8-5 or 6-10-10 fertilizer to each hill. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, placing four to six seeds in each hill. Water well. Pumpkin seeds germinate within four to six days. When seedlings have two or three true leaves, remove all but the healthiest two or three plants from each hill. When thinning, also choose the seedlings you remove to leave evenly spaced plants. Reapply fertilizer three weeks after planting. Growing Needs
Water slowly, allowing the water to reach a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Apply about 1 inch of water per week, depending on natural precipitation and drying winds. In hot weather, the leaves may appear wilted in the afternoon -- but if the plants are wilted early in the morning, they need more water. Pumpkins produce male and female flowers on the same plant. Male blossoms usually appear first, and are attached to a straight stem. Female blossoms have a rounded base, the ovary, which looks like a small fruit. Insects, especially bees, naturally pollinate pumpkins by flying from flower to flower. If insects do not provide sufficient pollination, you may have to manually pollinate the female flowers. Late in the season, pluck new blossoms to direct the plant's energy to the ripening fruit. Pumpkin blossoms, like all squash blossoms, are edible. Ripening and Harvest
Pumpkins tolerate light frost and can remain in the garden even after frost has killed the vines and foliage. They are ready to harvest when the rind is hard and they have developed a deep, uniform color -- usually orange, but possibly white, green or cream-colored depending on the variety you have grown. Harvest all pumpkins before temperatures drop lower than 25 degrees F. To harvest, cut the pumpkins off the vine, leaving several inches of stem attached to each fruit. Handle them carefully and do not carry by the stem because it may break off, leaving an opening for disease or pests to enter. Cure pumpkins for 10 days, ideally at 80 to 85 degrees F and 80 percent relative humidity. After curing, store in a cool, dry place at 50 to 55 degrees F with good air circulation around the fruits. Properly stored, pumpkins will keep for at least a few months.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Miss Chen
Onions are used in various recipes and are usually on hand as kitchen staples. Some onions even begin to sprout while kept on the shelf or in the cupboard. When this happens, there is no need to throw out the sprouted onions. These onions may be planted directly into your backyard garden and used to produce more fresh onions. With proper care and planting, sprouted onions become as productive as onion seeds.
Soil A raised garden bed, or a garden bed of soil inside a box frame made of wood with walls at least 4 to 6 inches tall, is best for onions. Prepare your garden soil for your onion transplants. Onions require loose, well-drained soil. Work an organic fertilizer, such as peat moss, into the soil prior to planting the onions. Treat the soil with a liquid or granule fertilizer rich in phosphorus, also. Water the soil well, making it moist but never soggy or muddy, as doing so rots the onions. Transplanting Place the sprouted onions into the garden bed at a depth of 8 inches. Space the onions 6 inches apart. Create rows of onions in your garden bed. When planting sprouted onions, ensure you place the green shoots out of the soil with the onion bulb in the soil so the plants can grow properly. Cover the onions lightly with soil, and water thoroughly to encourage the onions to grow in the garden bed. Care Water the onions daily, ensuring to never over water and make soil soggy or muddy. Provide them with a full-sun environment to produce maximum growth results. Fertilize the onions every two weeks with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to produce larger, healthier onions. When new green shoots are produced, add more soil to the top of the onion plant to blanch the leaves out (turn them white). This encourages the onion to grow larger and produce more edible root. Onions should be harvested when the shoots become 1 to 2 feet long.
Problems Watch your onions for signs of disease or pests. If the leaves appear discolored (any color other than bright, healthy green) or develop lesions, the onions may be diseased. The most common onion diseases include blight and blotch, each requiring treatment by an anti-bacterial, anti-viral or anti-fungal product. Thrips, aphids and mites are pests that harm onions. Leaf discoloration or distortion are symptoms. Treat pests with chemical insecticides or soap sprays.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Miss Chen
Closely related to broccoli, cauliflower grows best in cool weather and is easily damaged by the heat of summer. Generally planted for spring and fall harvests, this vegetable can be tricky to grow thanks to tough soil requirements and tight temperature ranges. All cauliflower plants should at least be started indoors, and you can continue to grow them indoors with the right type of container.
Starting Seeds Because cauliflower must be harvested before the summer heat sets in, you have to start seeds indoors during winter. Sow seeds in small planting pots or seed trays at least 6 to 10 weeks before the final predicted frost date for your area. Final frost is generally in February or March, so you will begin planting in December or January. Plant in fast-draining soil mix, keep the soil consistently moist and store the seeds at or very near 45 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the seeds to germinate. You should see small sprouts coming up from the seeds within two to three weeks of planting. Container Growing If you intend to keep cauliflower indoors, you will need to transplant the young seedlings into larger containers. Use containers that are at least 8 inches deep. The width of the container varies by the number of cauliflower plants you want to grow in a single container. Each head of cauliflower needs at least 18 inches on all sides to grow to full size. Use quick-draining potting soil and a container that features drainage holes. If you want to create your own growing container, such as from an old storage tub, you can drill 1/4-inch diameter holes along the bottom and sides (1 inch from the bottom) of the container to create your own drainage holes.
Indoor Care Transplant the seedlings into the container about six weeks after planting when the seedlings have at least four good, strong leaves. Plant one of the seedlings at the direct center of the container, and plant each plant at least 18 inches removed from the first and from each other. Maintain temperature around the cauliflower between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit; temperature variations will slow or stunt growth. Keep the soil consistently moist. After about a month, add aged manure to the soil to feed the plant, encouraging growth. Cauliflower is ready for harvest 70 to 120 days after seeding. Growing Indoors for Fall Harvest If you will grow your cauliflower indoors only and control temperature, soil and watering, you can theoretically plant at any time for a harvest at any time of year. In general, a fall harvest requires planting in the summer, which does not always result in healthy plants thanks to warm weather. However, as long as you can maintain the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit temperature range, plant cauliflower anytime of year for indoor growing.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Miss Chen
In addition to proper fertilizing and watering techniques, onion variety selection is an important factor in growing large onions. Long-day onions grow well in Northern regions, while short-day onions produce large bulbs in the South. The number and size of the leaves at maturity predicts how large the onions will be. More leaves means larger onions.
Before Planting Before planting onion transplants or sets, amend the soil with 3 inches of compost, which improves soil texture and provides some slow-release nutrients. Add 1/2 cup balanced fertilizer per 10 feet of row and till the amendments to a depth of 8 inches. Use 1/2 cup super phosphate fertilizer instead of balanced fertilizer if planting onion seed. Super phosphate acts as a starter fertilizer, encouraging strong, early roots. Growing Season Onions need a steady supply of nitrogen to form large bulbs. Side dress growing plants in early and midsummer with 1/2 cup nitrogen-based fertilizer. Use ammonium sulfate if your soil is alkaline because this fertilizer lowers the pH slightly. Ammonium nitrate works well for gardens with acidic soil.
Organic Options Spread two or three shovelfuls of compost among the onions instead of fertilizer and dig it lightly into the soil. Take care not to nick the bulbs with the shovel. Read package labels carefully and choose a high-quality compost made from manure and composted vegetable material. Avoid composts that contain biosolids or sludge in the vegetable garden. Considerations Don't apply fertilizer after midsummer. Late applications of fertilizer encourage new, soft growth and the onions won't keep as well. In addition to adequate fertilizer, onions need evenly moist soil to grow large. Mulch the ground with untreated grass clippings to conserve moisture. Spread 1/4 inch grass clippings over the soil each week, allowing the clippings to dry before adding more.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Miss Chen
Companion planting is an organic method of gardening that uses plants to assist each other in growing. Plants all contain various natural substances that can either aid or hinder another plant's growing abilities. Companion planting is also an important part of integrated pest management by repelling harmful insects without losing any beneficial allies. Brussels sprouts is part of the cabbage family and suffers and benefits from the same factors as other members of the cabbage family. Several herbs and crops make useful companions to Brussels sprouts.
Improve Flavor Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops. Deter Pests Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch. Non-Companions Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Miss Chen
Many vegetables make good home crops, and the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus) is one of the best. Usually quite productive and easy to grow, a failing cucumber plant can leave you wondering if your green thumb has turned brown. Sometimes, however, cucumbers develop but fail to turn green or start out green only to become orange or yellow. Yellowing cucumbers might signal a problem but they are sometimes a natural occurrence. Knowing the difference is the first step, followed by making some changes to prevent abnormal yellowing.
Baby I Was Born This Way Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow. Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them. Food and Water Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop. Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden. Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed. Other Cucumber Crises While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat. Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil. If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Miss Chen
It is entertaining to watch a cucumber (Cucumis sativus) grow through its stages from tiny vine to full-size plant with edible fruits. As the soil temperature reaches the 70 degree Fahrenheit range, it is time to plant cucumber, one of the most popular vegetables in the Cucurbitaceae family of plants. Producing fruits used for pickling, slicing or eating fresh off the vine, cucumber is a simple vegetable to grow in a home garden.
Seed Sowing and Seedling Emergence The seeds of vining cucumber varieties such as 'Boston Pickling' and 'Lemon Cucumber' are sown either four to five seeds per hill of soil or 2 to 3 feet apart in a straight row. Seed germination, or sprouting, occurs fairly fast. Watch for the two-leaved seedlings to emerge above the soil three to 10 days after sowing the seeds. A seedling's first two leaves are called cotyledon and are round with smooth edges. The next leaves are true leaves with the characteristic cucumber heart-shape and sharp-edged margins. The soil should remain moist at all times as the seedlings begin to grow. To test for moistness, put your finger in the soil. It should not be dry beyond the first finger joint. As seedlings reach 4 inches in height, remove some of them so the remaining ones are 1 ½ feet apart. Each bush variety of cucumber requires 2 to 3 square feet of space, and the vine type can reach to 6 feet in height. Trellis systems or tomato cages can be used to support plants that are the vine type. Plant cucumber seeds every two to three weeks until three months before your area's first average annual frost date to have a continuous harvest of cucumber fruits as summer progresses.
Flowering and Pollination Cucumbers produce two kinds of bright, golden-yellow flowers: male and female. Male flowers emerge first but do not produce fruits and fall off after pollination is complete. Female flowers emerge within one to two weeks. Cucumber plants are not self-pollinating; they require bees or other pollinators to carry their pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Insecticides applied at cucumbers' flower stage of growth can kill the pollinators, interfering with the process of pollination. Fruiting and Harvest After female cucumber flowers have been pollinated, they swell at their bases and begin to develop into fruits. Cucumber fruits usually can be harvested 50 to 70 days after the seeds were sown, depending on the variety and weather conditions. Cucumber varieties used for pickling are ready to harvest when the fruits reach 3 to 4 inches in length. The harvest lasts seven to 10 days for each of those plants. The longer fruits of varieties used for slicing are ready for harvest when they are 7 to 8 inches long, and their harvest time may continue for as long as four to six weeks. At peak harvest time, cucumber fruits should be picked every two days. Cucumber plants produce more fruits when the fruits are picked regularly. Fruits left on the vines become bitter and their skins tough. A mature cucumber plant produces about 5 pounds of fruits, or about 10 fruits that are each 6 ounces. Heirloom varieties, however, produce about 2 to 3 pounds of fruits per plant. Post-Harvest When harvest is complete, pull the cucumber vines or bushes out of the soil, and put them into the compost bin or pile. Long vines can be cut into 1-to 2-foot lengths for speedier decomposition. Vines or bushes left on the ground to decompose may attract pests or diseases to the garden.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Miss Chen
Peppers are related to tomatoes and tomatillos and have similar structures and form. The plants grow 18 to 24 inches high, depending on the variety, and have one strong central stem with horizontal branches that produce fruit and flowers. A strong, deep root system is critical for good fruit production.
Root Depth Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface. Growing Conditions Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding. Disease Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Miss Chen
Habanero peppers are one of the world's hottest peppers. They take a while to ripen after you transplant them or grow them from seeds. The peppers turn from green to red or orange when they ripen. Habanero peppers thrive in hot weather and acidic soil. The peppers do not require much water. In fact, too much water can cause the produce to have a bitter flavor. While the peppers are very hot in flavor, they are also rich in vitamin C. You can create salsa with the peppers or add them to your favorite dish to add a spicy flavor.
Hunker Source Material - Midcentury Design 00:00 Habanero Care Grow the peppers when the threat of frost passes, because they do not tolerate the frost. Habanero plants require temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit before they produce peppers. Habaneros can often tolerate higher temperatures during the daytime. Remove small flowers until the plants become established if you are growing them from transplants. Water the plants only once a week to stress the plants to produce the hottest peppers. Watering the plants more often will create milder peppers. Harvest Time Inspect the habanero peppers between 100 to 120 days after you plant them. The time it takes for the peppers to ripen will depend on sunlight, water and soil conditions. Habanero peppers will remain green when they sprout on the plants, but they will change in color when it gets closer to harvest time. Check on the habanero peppers daily to determine when they are ready for harvesting.
Harvest Signs Habanero peppers will transform from green to red or orange in color. You will no longer notice any green on the peppers when they ripen completely. Inspect the size of the habanero peppers. Peppers that are three-quarters inch or larger in diameter are ready for harvest because they have reached the desired size. Harvest the habanero peppers as they ripen so that the plant can dedicate its energy into producing new peppers. Harvest Tips Wear gloves when handling the habanero peppers to prevent irritation to your skin or eyes. Cut the habanero peppers from the plants with pruning shears. Cut the peppers off at the stem, leaving up to an inch of the stem attached to the peppers. Avoid pulling or tearing the peppers from the plant, because you can damage it. Store the harvested peppers in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer. Wash the habanero peppers off with cool water before you use them.
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