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动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1-4' tall. Initially, evergreen basal leaves are produced, forming a rosette about 4-6" across; these leaves develop during the late fall and persist into the spring. Later, a central stem develops that becomes branched in the upper half. Both the central and lateral stems are terete and evenly pubescent. Along each stem, there are alternate leaves up to 4" long and 2½" across. These leaves are variable in shape: the lower leaves are cordate to ovate-cordate (like the basal leaves), the middle leaves are ovate-cordate to lanceolate, while the upper leaves are linear to short and scale-like. The alternate leaves become smaller in size as they ascend the stems. They are dull medium green, sparsely short-canescent on their upper surfaces, and more densely short-pubescent on their upper surfaces. The margins of the leaves are usually smooth, although some leaves may be sparsely dentate-crenate.
The central stem terminates in a panicle of flowerheads that is about twice as long as it is across; the stronger upper stems often produce smaller panicles of flowerheads. The collective weight of these flowerheads often causes the entire plant to lean partially sideways. Each daisy-like flowerhead is ¾–1¼" across, consisting of 20-35 rays florets and a similar number of disk florets. Depending on the local genotype of the plant, some flowerheads may have up to 50 ray florets, but this is less common. The ray florets of the flowers are usually blue-violet, but sometimes they are white. The disk florets are yellow, but become more orange-red colored with age. At the base of each flowerhead, there are several series of strongly recurved floral bracts. These bracts are linear-lanceolate in shape and usually finely pubescent. The blooming period occurs from late summer into the fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Usually, several flowers are in bloom at the same time. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each disk or ray floret is replaced by a small achene that is narrowly obovoid. At the apex of each achene, there is a small tuft of tawny hairs. These achenes are distributed by the wind. The root system is fibrous and short-rhizomatous. Older plants may produce a small caudex. Vegetative offsets can develop from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and soil containing clay-loam or rocky-loam. Decaying organic material is beneficial to growth and helps to retain moisture. Like other woodland asters, this species often leans over to one side when it flowers. Range & Habitat: The native Many-Rayed Aster is largely restricted to west-central and south-west Illinois, where it is uncommon to occasional (see Distribution Map). Elsewhere in the state, it is absent. This species is endemic to the mid-section of the United States, where it is found primarily in Arkansas, Missouri, and Illinois. Habitats include upland oak woodlands, upland oak savannas, thinly wooded bluffs along major rivers, partially shaded cliffs, rocky ledges, and various kinds of glades (limestone, sandstone, chert, etc.). This aster is fairly conservative ecologically, but it will adapt to minor levels of disturbance and probably benefits from occasional wildfires. Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract a variety of insects, including long-tongued bees, short-tongued bees, Syrphid flies, bee flies, and small- to medium-sized butterflies. A specialist pollinator of asters is the bee Andrena simplex. Many insects feed on various parts of asters (leaves, flowerheads, stems, etc.), including the caterpillars of the butterflies Chlosyne nycteis (Silvery Checkerspot) and Phyciodes tharos (Pearl Crescent); other species are listed in the Moth Table (moths & butterflies) and the Insect Table (primarily aphids, leaf beetles, & plant bugs). The Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey feed on the leaves, flowerheads, and seeds of asters (especially those species occurring in woodlands and savannas). Mammals feeding on asters include the White-Tailed Deer (foliage), Cottontail Rabbit (foliage), and White-Footed Mouse (seeds). Asters help to provide cover for wildlife.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: There are many aster species in Illinois (over 35), and this is one of the less common species. In many ways, Many-Rayed Aster resembles the more common Symphyotrichum drummondii (Drummond's Aster), but the former has larger flowerheads (at least ¾" across) with strongly recurved floral bracts. In contrast, Drummond's Aster (and many other woodland/savanna asters) has flowerheads about ½–¾" across and straight floral bracts. As the common name suggests, Many-Rayed Aster has abundant ray florets (20-35 or more), while other woodland/savanna asters typically have 10-20 ray florets. I am somewhat partial to Many-Rayed Aster because it is easy to grow, the flowerheads are a little larger in size, and they are usually more showy than the flowerheads of other woodland/savanna asters. A scientific synonym of this species is Aster anomalus, and another common name is Cliff Aster.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This branching shrub is 2-4' tall. The trunk and lower branches are woody and brown; they are covered with strips of loose shaggy bark. The middle to upper branches are reddish purple to brown and variably hairy. The blades of the opposite leaves are up to 2" long and 1¼" across; they are oval-ovate and smooth along their margins. The upper surface of each leaf blade is medium green and hairless to slightly pubescent, while the lower surface is whitish green and slightly pubescent to very pubescent. Each leaf has a short petiole up to ¼" long. Leaf venation is pinnate. At the axils of some leaves, there develops dense clusters of greenish yellow flowers that are sessile, or nearly so. Each flower is about ¼" long, consisting of a short tubular corolla with 5 lobes, a short green calyx with 5 teeth, and an inferior ovary that is pale green and globoid-ovoid in shape. Inside the corolla, there are 5 stamens surrounding a hairy style. The blooming period occurs during the late spring or summer. Each flower is replaced by a berry containing 2 seeds. The mature berries are about ¼" long, reddish purple, and ovoid-globoid in shape; the texture of their flesh is somewhat dry. The seeds are oblongoid and flattened. The root system consists of a woody branching taproot.
Cultivation: Coralberry adapts to partial sun, moist to dry conditions, and a loamy or rocky soil. Range & Habitat: The native Coralberry is occasional to locally common in the southern half of Illinois, becoming less common or absent in the northern half of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include thin rocky woodlands, woodland openings, woodland borders, areas along woodland paths, powerline clearances in wooded areas, thickets, and limestone glades. Sometimes this shrub is grown as an ornamental plant in gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Disturbance in wooded areas is beneficial if it reduces excessive shade from overhead trees.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract bees, wasps, and flies primarily. These insects suck nectar from the flowers, although some of the bees also collect pollen. The caterpillars of the moths Hemaris diffinis (Snowberry Clearwing), Hemaris thysbe (Hummingbird Clearwing), and Hesperumia sulphuraria (Sulfur Moth) feed on the foliage of Coralberry and other Symphoricarpos spp. The aphid Apathargelia symphoricarpi and the thrips Thrips winnemanae suck juices from the undersides of the leaves. The berries persist into the fall and winter and are eaten primarily by Robins (Turdus migratorius); the buds and berries are also eaten by the Bobwhite. Coralberry is a favorite food plant of the White-Tailed Deer and it is often heavily browsed. Because of its dense branching habit and abundant leaves, this shrub provides good cover for wildlife. Photographic Location: A powerline clearance at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Coralberry is a rather small sprawling shrub with attractive foliage and berries. It is an easy shrub to identify in natural areas, particularly during the fall, because of the purplish red berries. Other Symphoricarpos spp. (Snowberry, Wolfberry) in Illinois have white or greenish white berries. A related group of plants, Lonicera spp. (Honeysuckles), are either vines or upright shrubs. Like Coralberry, Honeysuckles often produce berries in clusters near the leaves, but their berries are usually bright red and more juicy. Generally, the corollas of Honeysuckle flowers are larger in size than those of Coralberry, and they have long slender lobes. All of these plants produce pairs of opposite leaves on woody stems; the margins of their leaves are smooth or slightly wavy, but they never have teeth, unlike the leaves of many other shrubs. Another common name of Symphoricarpos orbiculatus is Buckbrush, which refers to the attractiveness of this shrub to deer as a food plant.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is 4-12" tall; it is branched at the base and often branched above. The ascending to erect stems are light to medium green, hairy, and terete. Alternate trifoliate leaves occur at intervals along the stems. The leaflets are ½-1½" long and 4-8 mm. across; they are elliptic in shape, while their margins are entire (smooth) and ciliate. The upper leaflet surface is medium green and glabrous to sparsely short-pubescent, while the lower leaflet surface is light green and sparsely short-pubescent. The petioles of the trifoliate leaves are up to ¼" long, light green, and hairy. The base of each petiole and a portion of the adjacent stem are surrounded by a pair of of green to brown stipules; each stipule tapers to a ciliate beak. The terminal leaflets have petiolules (basal stalklets) up to ¼" long, while the lateral leaflets are sessile (or nearly so). Leaf venation is pinnate; the veins along the upper leaflet surfaces often appear to be shiny. The flowers are produced individually (rare in clusters) from the axils of the leaves. The pedicels of the flowers are up to ¼" long. Each flower has 5 yellow petals, a light green calyx with 4-5 lobes, and the enclosed reproductive organs. The petals are arranged in a pea-like floral structure, consisting of a large banner, a pair of forward-projecting wings, and an enclosed keel. The flowers are oriented either laterally (with erect banners) or they are held erect (with the banners at the bottom).
The blooming period occurs from late spring to late summer, lasting about 1½-3 months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. The flowers are replaced by small seedpods consisting of two segments: the first segment is infertile and stipe-like in shape, while the second segment contains a single seed. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat acidic infertile soil where there is reduced competition from other kinds of ground vegetation. Range & Habitat: The native Pencil Flower is fairly common in southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the northern range limit of this species. Habitats consist of upland rocky woodlands, bluffs, upland savannas, sandstone glades, prairies, and fields. Pencil Flower occurs in both higher quality natural areas and disturbed areas, especially where sandstone is close to the ground surface. Faunal Associations: The flowers of Pencil Flower are cross-pollinated primarily by bees (Robertson, 1929). This is one of the host plants of a leaf beetle, Sumitrosis ancoroides. The foliage is highly palatable to hoofed mammalian herbivores (Banta & Thro, 1995). Photographic Location: An upland rocky woodland in southern Illinois. Comments: Because it produces relatively few flowers at the same time and it is relatively small in size, Pencil Flower is fairly easy to overlook. It can be distinguished from similar species in the Bean family by the shiny veins on its leaves, stipules with beak-like ciliate tips, and asymmetrical seedpods (a narrow infertile segment followed by a broader fertile segment). There is some variability of this species across its range in regards to the hairiness of its stems, the erectness of its stems, whether flowers are produced individually or in small groups, etc. At the present time, these are regarded as variations of a single polymorphic species.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This plant is a trailing or climbing annual vine about 3-9' long that branches occasionally. The slender stems are light green, gray-green, or dull red, terete, and hairy; they can climb by twining around the stems or branches of neighboring plants. Alternate trifoliate leaves occur at intervals along the stems. The leaflets are 1-2" long and ½–1¼" across; the terminal leaflet is usually a little larger than the lateral leaflets. The leaflets are broadly lanceolate to ovate with well-rounded bases and smooth margins; the terminal leaflet has a short stalk at its base (petiolule), while the lateral leaflets are nearly sessile. For this variety of Strophostyles helvula, the leaflets lack obtuse basal lobes, unlike the typical variety. The upper leaflet surfaces are medium green and hairless (or nearly so), while their lowers surfaces are pale green and hairless (or nearly so). The slender petioles of the trifoliate leaves are about 1-2" long; they are usually slightly pubescent. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of tiny linear-lanceolate stipules. At the axils of some leaves, there develops individual stalks (peduncles) of flowers; these stalks are 3-6" long. At the apex of each stalk, there is a dense cluster of 3-10 nearly sessile flowers; usually only 1-2 flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is about 1/3" long or a little more, its petals consisting of a large rounded banner, a pair of slender lateral petals, and a narrow keel that is curled upward. These petals are light pink to pink, fading to white or pale green; at the bottom of the banner, there is a small patch of yellow. At the base of each flower, there is a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth; this calyx is sparsely hairy. At the base of each calyx, there are lanceolate tiny bracts with pointed tips that are about the same length as the calyx. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. Each fertile flower is replaced by a cylindrical seedpod that is 2–3½" long at maturity. The seedpod is initially green, but later becomes dark brown; it is nearly glabrous to sparsely hairy. Individual seeds are about ¼" long, oblongoid in shape, and pubescent. Each seedpod eventually divides into two parts to disperse the seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing sand, loam, silt, or gravelly soil. The root system can fix nitrogen in the soil. Range & Habitat: This native wildflower is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map); the map does not differentiate between var. missouriensis and the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean). Missouri Fuzzy Bean is less common than the typical variety and it is found primarily in counties along the Mississippi River. Habitats of both varieties include open woodlands (including sandy and rocky woodlands), thickets and sandy thickets, riverbanks, sand bars and gravel bars along rivers, abandoned fields, and areas along railroads. Habitats with some history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by bees, especially Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) and bumblebees. One bee species, Megachile integra, is a specialist pollinator (oligolege) of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Missouri Fuzzy Bean also has extra-floral nectaries, which attract primarily wasps, flies, ants, and small Halictid bees. The extra-floral nectaries may prevent nectar thieves (e.g., ants) from stealing nectar from the flowers, or they may attract insects (e.g., ants & wasps) that help to protect the plant from insects that feed on the foliage. Insect feeders of the foliage include the caterpillars of Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), and Urbanus proteus (Long-Tailed Skipper). The leaf beetles Cerotoma trifurcata and Sumitrosis ancoroides also feed on the foliage. The seeds are eaten by such birds as the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Mourning Dove, while the foliage is readily consumed by cattle, deer, and probably other mammalian herbivores. Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Missouri Fuzzy Bean is one of several species in the Fabaceae (Bean family) that are vines. It has fairly typical pea-like flowers for species in this family, except that the keels of the flowers curl upward in an odd manner. Another distinctive characteristic of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans) is the production of dense clusters of flowers on long stalks (although only a few flowers bloom at the same time per cluster). The common name 'Fuzzy Bean' refers to the hairiness of the seedpods and/or the pubescent seeds of many species in this genus. As already mentioned, Missouri Fuzzy Bean differs from the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean), by the lack of obtuse basal lobes on its leaflets. Because of this characteristic, Missouri Fuzzy Bean can be difficult to distinguish from Strophostyles umbellata (Perennial Fuzzy Bean), which has similar leaflets. For Missouri Fuzzy Bean, the tiny bracts at the base of each flower are about as long as the calyx and they have pointed tips. In contrast, the tiny bracts of Perennial Fuzzy Bean are only one-half as long as the calyx and they have blunt tips. Another species, Strophostyles leiosperma (Small Fuzzy Bean), has smaller leaves and flowers, while the calyx of each flower is densely hairy. Sometimes the scientific name Strophostyles helvula is spelled 'Strophostyles helvola,' which is apparently incorrect.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1-5' tall and either unbranched or sparingly so. The central stem is erect, terete, densely hairy or pubescent, and light green to brownish red. The alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 1½" across; they are ovate, narrowly ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or ovate-oblanceolate in shape with crenate-serrate margins. The upper surfaces of the leaves are deeply indented by pinnate veins; this characteristic provides them with a somewhat wrinkled appearance. Additionally, the upper surfaces of the leaves are slightly pubescent to hairless, medium to dark green, and usually dull-colored. The central stem terminates in a panicle of yellow flowerheads of variable shape and size. Small plants often have narrow panicles that resemble racemes, while large plants often have broad panicles with spreading-recurved branches. The upper stems of some large plants may produce panicles that are smaller than that of the central stem.
Each yellow flowerhead spans about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 4-8 ray florets and a similar number of tubular disk florets. The base of each flowerhead consists of overlapping scale-like bracts that are yellowish-green. The branches of larger panicles often have small leafy bracts. The blooming period can occur from mid-summer into the fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Each fertile floret is replaced by a small bullet-shaped achene with a short tuft of hairs at its apex. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Vegetative colonies of plants are often formed by the spreading rhizomes. Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and soil that is sandy, loamy, or gravelly with a slightly acid pH. Range & Habitat: The native Wrinkled-Leaved Goldenrod occurs primarily in the southwest corner of Illinois, where it is uncommon. Elsewhere in the state, it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies at the NW range limit of this species. Habitats include low open woodlands, thickets, sandy swamps, wet sandy prairies, sandy banks of marshes, acid gravelly seeps, sand dunes, and rocky bluffs or cliffs. Usually, this goldenrod is found in moist areas that are sandy or where sandstone is close to the ground surface. Sometimes it is found in gardens, although some cultivars of this species bear little resemblance to the native plants. Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract a wide variety of insects, including small bees, wasps, flies, small butterflies, skippers, and beetles. The caterpillars of many moth species feed on various parts of goldenrods (see Moth Table), while several leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae) feed primarily on the foliage (see Leaf Beetle Table). Other insects that feed on goldenrods include various plant bugs, stink bugs, lace bugs, treehoppers, and leafhoppers; the Bug Table lists some of these species. Insectivorous birds benefit indirectly from goldenrods because of the numerous insects that they attract. Other birds feed directly on goldenrods to a minor extent, including the Indigo Bunting (seeds), Eastern Goldfinch (seeds), Swamp Sparrow (seeds), Ruffed Grouse (leaves), and Greater Prairie Chicken (leaves). White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbits feed on young foliage to a limited extent, while Meadow Voles eat both the seeds and foliage. Photographic Location: A sandy bank along a marsh at Jasper-Pulaski Fish and Wildlife Area in northwestern Indiana. The photographed plant is a dwarf (about 1½' tall) that may have been mowed earlier in the year. Comments: Across it range in the eastern United States, this goldenrod is somewhat variable in appearance. Nonetheless, Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod can be distinguished from other goldenrods as follows: 1) the central stem is quite hairy or pubescent, 2) the upper surfaces of the leaves have a wrinkled appearance because of the indentations of their pinnate veins, and 3) individual leaves lack 3 prominent veins that run parallel to each other. This latter characteristic is typical of Solidago canadensis (Canada Goldenrod), Solidago gigantea (Giant Goldenrod), and similar goldenrods. Two other species, Solidago ulmifolia (Elm-Leaved Goldenrod) and Solidago patula (Swamp Goldenrod), have stems that are glabrous or only slightly hairy and their leaves tend to be more thin in texture and shiny than those of Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod. Other common names of Solidago rugosa include 'Rough-Stemmed Goldenrod,' 'Rough Goldenrod,' and 'Rough-Leaved Goldenrod.'
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
很多友友都是被多肉的外表所吸引，而冲动的买了它。但是回到家后才发现，自己对它一无所知。那么下面就告诉你怎么养。
多肉养护 1、如果你是通过网购途径购买脱土的肉肉，收到货一定要及时打开包裹，把肉肉通风，特别是夏天，不然黑腐可不是件小事。之后要检查肉肉是否有虫子或者其他脏东西，如果有虫害（特别是粉根介），须要立即清除，杜绝虫源入侵。另外还需检查肉肉的茎和叶是否有病斑或者黑腐，如果有的话，那么就要联系卖家退换货，新手对不健康的肉肉要坚决说no！ 2、如果你是在实体店买肉肉，同样也要对肉肉进行检查，一般大棚出来的肉肉都是经过杀虫灭菌处理的，所以大可不必恐慌。原来的植料要不要保留随你，带土移植一般可以提高成活率。 多肉养护修根 裸根的肉肉到手后，需要进行简单的修根处理，把多余的土抖掉，去掉干瘪腐烂的叶片和须根，保留主根就行了，伤口可以用干硫磺粉涂抹，也可以放到阴凉通风处晾干一两天，使得伤口愈合，避免伤口感染而黑腐。
多肉选盆 在晾根的时候你就可以准备盆和土啦，选盆对新手来说，一般有以下选择： 1、“小黑方”：小黑方价格便宜，整齐划一，适合一个萝卜一个坑的种植，可以节省阳台空间。 2、“红陶盆”：红陶盆价格也便宜，透气性良好，度夏有保证，因为水分散逸较快，所以对新手来说不是那么好控制浇水。 3、“紫砂盆”：透水透气性极佳的紫砂盆也是新手的首选，古朴的造型搭配老桩非常和谐，但是价格相对较昂贵。 4、“韩式粗陶盆”：现在不仅是韩国景天大举入侵，韩国风格的盆子也逐渐成为主流，一般都是外壁上釉，内部为粗陶胚子，有利于透气。 5、“白瓷盆”：白瓷盆透气性差，不合理控制浇水的话，容易造成土壤积水，所以对新手来说是有难度的。 盆器多种多样，一双旧靴子，一个铁皮盒都可以成为肉肉们的新家，总之选盆要具体情况具体分析，根据肉肉的品种，家里的环境，配土的成分进行选择，一般要遵循：“透水性好、底部有孔”。 多肉配土 大部分肉肉还是喜欢疏水透气的植料，从功能上可分为三种： 1、定植土：目的是为了固定植物，提供养分给肉肉生长。一般使用花鸟市场或者大棚常见的多肉种植土就可以了。如果你喜欢自己配土也可以的，一般是“泥炭土4份+珍珠岩2份+火山石2份+蛭石2份”即可，多肉君一般是用“煤渣3份+大颗粒河沙2+园土5份”的平民配土法。 2、垫底植料：目的是为了让土壤不会过分积水。避免肉肉烂根或者由于土壤潮湿导致病菌滋生，从而造成各种病症的发生。一般选用陶粒等大颗粒，粗筛的煤渣也是不错的选择，具有吸附杂质的木炭也可以。 3、铺面植料：目的主要是为了美观，兼带有一些小功能。铺面植料来源很广泛，比如白色小石子，赤玉土、桐生砂、鹿沼土等，大家可以根据盆器和植物的不同进行合理的选择，最终的目的还是为了装饰上的美观和固定植株。 其实每个人的配土方法都不同，关键还是要根据当地的气候和植物的品种来进行配置。 多肉定值 等植物伤口完全愈合了，就可以上盆啦，盆底垫上大颗粒的植料，比如陶粒等，这样有利于排水透气。之后用潮土干栽，（即土感觉有点潮，手抓起来感觉是湿润的，但是松开后不会粘在一起而是散开就行），这样可以促进植物长出新根。最后铺上喜欢的铺面石，放在光线明亮的通风处（不能暴晒），先不要浇水，3-4天后可以在土表喷一些水，一周左右浇透水一次，等肉肉叶片饱满，新叶子长出来，就可以逐渐见太阳，正常养护了。 多肉浇水 定植好了之后，就是肉肉的日常养护，浇水一般是干透浇透，即一次性给足水，直到底孔渗出，然后再等到干的差不多了，再浇透一次。通常肉肉在春秋季节是生长最迅速的，凉爽的天气和适宜的温度让肉肉需要较多的水分，这时候可以一周浇两次水，一般在傍晚浇水为宜。夏天气候炎热，肉肉会进入休眠状态，这时候要适当断水，切勿手贱频繁浇水，导致肉肉黑腐而死，一般1-2周浇一次，而且平常要保持干燥和通风。北方冬天较冷，一般低于5°或者零下，就要把肉肉要挪到室内养护，一般一周浇一次水。南方的冬天肉肉一般无压力，所以还是可以正常养护。 那到底浇水怎么去掌控呢？ a、看叶片：如果健康的叶片表明起皱纹，整个儿缩起来，或者有些品种叶片耷拉着，无精打采的样子，那就是肉肉反馈出来的一个“口渴”的信号； b、看土壤：新手可以观察土壤中的水分变化，有个简单的办法，用手掂量下重量，水分充足和水分缺乏时的盆土重量是相差很多的。另外，如果土的外缘和盆的內缘形成一道缝隙，土表龟裂，这也是缺水的表现； c、看盆器：红陶盆等透气性很好的盆器不容易保持住水分，所以可以根据具体情况多浇水；白瓷盆或者无孔的盆器，就要根据具体情况减少浇水； d、看配土：配土疏松透气可以根据具体情况多浇，配土细致紧密，就要考虑少浇水了。 日照 多肉光照在生长期，很多肉肉都需要充足的日照，一般一天要在4~6个小时为宜，不同品种和状态肉肉对光照的要求不同，比如花期就需要更长的日照促进开花；刚上盆的肉肉就不好露着暴晒；大戟科的肉肉很喜欢日照等。阴着养会使肉肉的叶片间隔变大、颜色褪去、茎干变得脆弱，叶片畸形，抵御外界的抗性下降，变得特别难看，不过别担心，如果循序渐进的让其接受光照一阵子，肉肉还是会变的萌萌哒。切记夏天气温超过30摄氏度要进行遮阴处理，状态难看点不要紧，保命为大。 病害 ★虫害 这里主要讲介壳虫。肉界流传着这么一句话：连续大雨+连续高温+暴晒=僵尸粉（僵苗、尸体、根粉介），虽然好笑，但也从侧面说明了大家对介壳虫是多么的深恶痛绝。这种瘟神不仅仅会吸食肉肉地面部分，还会藏匿在土壤中，常在肉肉须根周围可以发现白色棉絮状的东西，就是他们的功劳。所以防治介壳虫是肉友们必须get的基本技能。日常防治我们需要做到： a、确保植物和植料都是不带任何虫源的。 b、一旦在植物地面部分发现虫子，绝不姑息！如果只是少量，可以用竹签挑出来戳死（必须的），也可以用清水洗净。如果是大量爆发，而且虫子们还无耻地藏匿在叶片缝隙等我们难以够着的部位，那就要动真格了。一般网上和实体都可以买到多肉植物杀虫专用药（多肉君用的是吡虫灭多威，农药店老板推荐的），浓度要配比适宜，药液装在喷壶中，对着长虫子的部分要仔细喷一遍，没有虫子的地方也要喷一般当预防。期间要注意两点：1、施药一般在傍晚为宜，要在通风的环境下施用。2、施药频率为两周一次，没有虫害就不用很频繁地用药。 c、如果虫子们机智地藏在土里，也不要慌张，一般可以进行换土处理，仔细分开根系，把带有虫源的土去除干净，换上新土。如果你不想换盆，那就用浸盆法，即将盆器底部浸没在药液中，大概是1到2分钟即可。 d、很多人都注意到，爆发介壳虫的地方，往往有蚂蚁们群聚。这可不是什么好事，因为很多时候蚂蚁和粉根介是互惠关系，他们吸食介壳虫分泌的蜜汁，回报地将虫子搬运到其他植株，这或许可以解释了介壳虫为什么爆发范围会这么广。根据一些大神的经验，蚂蚁也是留不得的。 ★菌害 菌害通常表现为黑腐、黑斑或者锈斑。这些都是由病菌或者细菌引起的。 a、平时浇水要控制，具体情况具体分析，不能造成土壤过分积水。 b、一旦发现有病株应立即隔离，以免感染其他肉肉。 c、平时要改善通风条件，还可定期喷杀菌剂。 你还要知道一些小知识：一般黑腐的植株叶片不可以叶插，病株待过的土壤需要隔离并且进行灭菌处理等等。 看了达人的独家养肉经验，不知道对大家是否有所帮助？其实种肉还有很多小知识小窍门，平常要靠大家摸索，走一条适合自己实际情况的路子，这样才能把肉肉养的更好哟~最后想愿意分享的多肉君致敬！
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
多肉植物是非常好种植的。但是因为多肉植物越来越风靡，越来越多人种植的关系，也就出现了“为什么我的多肉植物死了”的声音，可以理解为，林子大了什么鸟都有…还可以理解为小概率事件放在一个很大的基数上，总会有不少的倒霉蛋。为了不让你成为那个倒霉蛋，还是来听听多肉植物怎么种植吧。
植物的种植，总是离不开三点，水分，介质，光照，多肉也不例外。光照更多的是影响植物生长状态的好坏，属于进阶级的。但是水分和介质则可以直接影响植物的生死。 因此多肉植物虽然好种植，还是应当注意一下几点。 1.介质，土壤疏松透气、排水良好，但有一定保水能力，呈中性或微酸性。适合多肉种植的介质很多，但是非常重要的一点就是要无菌，造成多肉死亡的直接原因往往是腐烂，植物的腐烂只有一个直接原因就是菌类感染。多肉在移栽过程中，如果介质本身就带有各种病菌，在加上后期的护理不当（譬如频繁的浇水）就很容易造成菌类的感染。因此在一开始的土壤选择上就应当选择无菌，或者杀过菌的。杀菌的常见方式有两种，一种是用杀菌剂譬如多菌灵之类的。另一种可以利用高温杀菌，譬如听过有人在锅上翻炒过还听说过有人把土放进微波炉里烤过。好的介质，好的开始。 2.浇水，浇水原则是见干见湿，就是土壤干透了的话，就浇透水。如果不好判断土壤是否干透，可以插个牙签在土里，平时要浇水了就看牙签的干湿程度就好了。见干见湿是花卉种植时的一个常用术语，意指浇水时一次浇透，然后等到土壤快干透时再浇第二次水，它的作用是防止浇水过多导致烂根和潮湿引起的病虫害。当然，也不需要这么严苛，只要不是过于频繁的浇水，一般都不会造成多肉死亡。 3.多肉们都很喜欢阳光，有一定的光照会长得更好。 多肉植物种植其实不难，其实只要粗养就行了！很多新手养死多肉植物都是因为太过于频繁的浇水了。 播种时期是育苗工作中很重要的一个环节。它影响着植株的生长期，以及幼苗对环境的适应能力的强与弱。适宜的播种时期能提高种子发芽率。出苗整齐，植株生长健壮，抗逆性强，节省土地和人力，还能培育出优质产品。
通常播种期为4～10月。仙人掌类的幼苗（一年之内的幼苗）在冬季不休眠，因而只要冬季有最低温度保证，在这期间都可以播种。而多肉植物最好分两批播种，夏季休眠的种类在9～10月进行。冬季休眠的种类在4～5月进行。21－27℃温度是仙人掌类及多肉植物播种的最适宜温度。在这个温度下发芽率较高，所以说春、秋季播种为最好。这时昼夜温差较大，出苗比较整齐，出苗后的幼苗生长也较快。当白天和晚上有15℃的温差时，最有利于发芽。但是专家们指出，当白天温度高于30℃对幼苗的生长并不太有利，因此选择播种期最好避开夏季。也不要在霉雨季节播种，此时病菌活跃，出土后的幼苗易染病。 直接盆播和浸种催芽是一般大家使用的方法。大多数情况都采用直接盆播法。直接盆播又可分点播和撒播。当种子数量较多，种子又较小时，一般采用撒播法：即把种子慢慢地、均匀地撒在苗盆里（切记给苗盆消毒）。 当种子大而少时，一般采用点播法：用手子尖、尖头筷子或竹签都可以，一粒粒点入苗盆（切记给苗盆消毒）。 浸种催芽主要用在一些难出苗的种子如一些种子皮太厚，多肉植物一般采用直接盆播就可以，象叶仙人掌属、仙人掌属等出苗的可能性就很小。 具体超作是把种子放在浅一点的容器中，稍许放点水，只要不要把种子淹没即可。然后盖上玻璃放在避光处。几天后看到白色子叶露出，此时可用小镊子移栽到（经过消毒、杀菌处理的）苗盆里并盖上玻璃。 一般用来播种的盆最好浅而大，材质到无所谓，但盆口一定要平整。只有这样玻璃才能盖的严。种子与种子可以混播。只要插上标签，注意间隔即可。 多肉植物栽培五要点　 　 一、培养土　　 要求土壤疏松透气、排水良好，但有一定保水能力，呈中性或微酸性。高地性球类（月世界属、月华玉属、琥玉属）和岩牡丹属可以再增加一点砻糠灰和小粒风化岩。高大的柱状种类可混以大粒石英砂，以固定植株。　　 二、温度和光线的调节　　 仙人掌类与多肉植物通常喜欢温暖和较大的昼夜温差。除了附生类型的仙人掌和十二卷属的种类外，光线要充足，但要柔和。为此，除了少数扁平茎节和高大柱状种及某些龙舌兰属植物外，一般应常年在温室内栽培。　　 附生类型的种类除冬季外都应遮阳，夏季结合降温，遮阳度应在5 0％至70％。虽然昙花和令箭荷花都有一定的耐寒性，但在冬季保持温暖则有利于翌年开花。作为砧木使用而大量栽培的量天尺不耐寒，冬季至少要维持5℃并要求充分照射阳光。 大多数陆生类型的仙人掌类在白天28℃至35℃、晚上10℃至15℃ 的条件下生长最旺盛。室内气温经常高于35℃至38℃时，生长停滞，高地性球类和毛柱类的部分种还很容易腐烂。因此，必须降温，但不能为了降温而像对待附生类型那样减少太多的光照。　　 大多数陆生类型种类在冬季保持盆土干燥的状态下，能耐2℃甚至 0℃的低温，但不能直接经霜受雪。原产加勒比海地区的花座球属种类和冬季开花的球形种类则要维持较高的温度。　　 夏季生长的多肉植物，基本上可参照陆生类型仙人掌类来调节温度。它们对光线的要求则相对较低，一些具膨大茎基的种类不耐寒，冬季应维持较高温度。　　 冬季生长的多肉植物，在夏季休眠期内要通风降温保持凉爽，冬季要求阳光充足，最低温度维持在7℃以上。　　 三、移植和种植　　 一般应在植物休眠刚结束的复苏期进行。种植前要修根。修根后要晾几天再用潮湿的培养土栽种，种好后适当遮阳并不要急于浇水，一个月内不要施肥。 四、浇水和施肥 浇水应按其生长状态进行。无论冬季休眠还是夏季休眠的种类，在休眠期要停止往盆内浇水。但夏季休眠的种类必须在走道等处晒水以保持一定的空气湿度。而对生长旺盛期的植株应充分满足其对水分的需求。小苗浇水要多，大球要少（指次数）；陆生类型的少浇，附生类型的多浇；现蕾开花期多浇，花谢果落后少浇；叶多而薄的多浇，叶厚而少的少浇。　　 施肥应在生长旺盛期、现蕾期进行。有机肥必须充分腐熟。施化肥时，氮、磷、钾的配比为5∶15∶10 或5∶10∶10 ，并应混入少量微量元素。　　 施肥宁淡不浓，需要时可多施几次。根部损伤者、生长不良者、茎叶有伤口者等植株禁施肥。　　 五、病虫害防治 病虫害的防治主要以预防为主。首先环境要整洁。对外来植物必须严格把关，确定没有病虫害时才放入棚内。初冬、早春、梅雨前这三个时期在棚内集中喷药有事半功倍的效果。此外，对培养土消毒有很好的预防效果。　　 常用的药剂主要有防病治病的杀菌剂（如多菌灵、托布津、百菌清、代森锌等）和杀虫剂（如氧化乐果、杀螨醇、马拉松、杀灭菊酯等）两类，可对症下药。药剂的浓度要严格按使用说明掌握，特别是杀虫剂，浓度稍浓即产生药害，帝冠和部分大戟科多肉植物对此尤其敏感。　　 喷药要连喷几次才有有效（中间隔2天）。同一种药物使用两次后要换一种，长期使用一种农药易产生抗药性。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
浇水一直是养肉人一大必修功课，浇少了造成多肉干旱，浇多了造成多肉烂根；其中浇水的量又与实际的环境息息相关，例如通风情况、温度高低、天气变化、季节不同等等。今天就给大家分享一篇干货中的精华，养肉浇水大全。
浇水时间 春夏秋三个季节最好是傍晚或者下午凉爽的时候浇水，而冬季因为温度过低，最好选在中午时分浇水。浇水时沿着花盆边缘浇入，不要让水滳到叶片上。尽量避免水流入叶片中心形成积水，这样的积水会像放大镜一样，将阳光聚集到一点，直接反叶片烧坏。如果不小心浇到叶片中心，可以将水珠吹掉，或者用纸巾吸干。 缺水信号 不论是沙漠还是高山地区的多肉植物，技干与叶片内都存有大量水分，所以浇水量一定不要太多。而且多肉植物在非常缺水时会消耗自身叶片的水分来供应所需养分，这时底部叶片会慢慢干枯掉；另外，番杏类及部分景天植物在缺水时叶片会起褶皱；还有的多肉在缺水时叶片会变软，这些都是它们给出的浇水信号。叶片褶皱或者变软，基本上浇水后第二天就会立即恢复，慢一点的第三天就能恢复。如果浇水后长时间都没恢复，那肯定是根系坏了，植物无法吸收造成的脱水现象。 不过有时叶片出现褶皱、变软也不一定是缺水，这就需要根据自己平时的浇水时间及最近的天气情况来判定了。一般来说，如果是缺水的情况，当晚浇水，叶片第二天就会饱满起来。但如果浇水后连续几天都没有改变状态，就需要注意了。这种情况一般都是植物的根系没有生长出来，或者原有的根系已经腐坏。这时可以将多肉从土壤中拔出来，重新清理根部，并换上干一些的土壤再种上。
浇水间隔 初期入门日，的确可以采用一个恒定的时间浇水，比如一周一次，一月一次-----虽然这种方式能让大部分多肉存活下来，但也并不是太好。因为天气变化无常，需且花盆材质也决定了水分的挥发量，还有上面所说的许多其他因素，使得浇水间隔不能一概而论。这里挑几个比较重要的讲解一下，这也是我栽培多年总结出来的经验。 天气变化与浇水 天气预报现在已是我每天必看的内容，甚至一天会看好几遍，因为这个预报是会变化的。看预报主要为了几个重要信息：晴天、下雨、阴天、温度、风速。这些信息决定了未来几天是否需要浇水。如果连续阴雨，放在户外的多肉最近两天就不需要再浇水了。需阴雨天气也会使室内的多肉花器内的水分挥发速度变慢，所以也可以相对延长浇水时候。相反，如果是连续晴天，而且风速还不错(3-5级)，温度适宜(10度-30度)，就可以频繁浇水了。不过这个还需根据花盆材质、多肉植物的大小来判断浇水量。 花盆材质与浇水 透气最好的陶盆养多肉比较适合，因为不存在涝死植物的情况，哪怕是干一点，只要多肉不死，浇水后状态还是会转好的，非常适合入门爱好者使用。但是陶盆也有缺点，就是水分挥发得太快，花器底部不保水，这会减缓多肉植物的生长速度。因为没有足够的水分来让多肉生长，水分在多肉吸收完全前就挥发完了。特别是夏季，许多花友误认为红陶盆透气好，干透的环境对多肉植物是非常好的，所以干脆就不浇水，结果直接导致多肉干死。 春秋季节比较凉爽，但日照充足的时候，陶盆里的水分几乎1-2天就完全干透了，这时1天浇一次或者2天浇一次水都没有问题。而陶瓷、铁器、塑料等花盆因透气性相对较差，浇水间隔一般都是陶盆的2-3倍。这些花器栽培的多肉植物几乎不需要太多管理，浇一次就可以放心出门了。夏季常说的断水也是针对这些透气性较差的花器而言，因为浇水后还会有大量水分储存在花盆底部。多肉植物也是需要有水分才能生长的，完全没有水分时会停止生长。 多肉植株大小与浇水 这一般是栽培多年的爱好者才会总结出来的一点。新种下的多肉因为根系较少、正在适应新环境、损伤恢复中等因素，对水分的吸收能力较弱，并不需要浇太多水。对于这类多肉植物，较好的浇水方式是：频繁需少量浇水。 而生长多年，非常健状的多肉植物，因为根系已经非常发达，种在陶瓷类透气性较差的花盆里，在连续晴天的情况下也可以2-3天浇水一次，如果是种在陶盆内甚至可以1天浇水一次。露养环境中即使遇上连续阴雨或者暴雨天气也没有任何影响，反而会生长得更好。这样的多肉我都是采取猛灌的方式浇水的。 地域气候与浇水 我一直认为这是决定多肉植物生长最重要的一个条件。虽然全国各地都可以养多肉，但如果幸运地居住在一个适合多肉植物生长的气候环境里，那可以省去你很多心思和时间，多肉自己就能生长得很好。比如山东威海的夏季，拿2012年来说，最高温度才30度，只持续10天左右，然后回落到每天23C -28度以上，并且因为是沿海城市，每天都不断有海风吹来，实际温度会更低一些，非常凉爽。 这样的气候对于多肉植物来说，几乎直接跃过了夏季休眠这个特性，多肉几乎全部处于生长状态，可以放心地浇水。而南方地区还持续在35度以上甚至40度的淡热气候，特别是西南地区，盆地气候是非常闷热的，风速也很小。这样炎热闷湿的环境会使多肉植物进入休眠，就不能再浇水了，这样地区大部分多肉都需要靠断水来度过夏季。但是断水时间过长也有可能直接干死，可以适当增加一些湿气，例如依靠在托盘中加水、傍晚凉爽时喷水等方式来缓解。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
转眼间，已是四月天，随着天气进一步转暖，以龙舌兰科辉山、王妃雷神、赖光锦、吉祥天：仙人掌科的金琥、岩牡丹、银毛球：大戟科的贵青玉、九头龙、贝信麒麟；夹竹桃科的光堂、沙漠玫瑰以及墨西哥龟甲龙、马齿苋树为代表的“夏型种”多肉植物开始生长，可逐渐搬到室外，接受阳光的照射和春风的沐浴，没有翻盆的植株可翻盆换土，并结合换盆进行分株繁殖。
以番杏科肉质化程度较高的生石花、肉锥花、绫耀玉、少将；景天科的信东尼、月光、吉娃莲、玉椿、花椿、漂流岛以及弹簧草、毛叶弹簧草、宽叶弹簧草、南非龟甲龙为代表的“冬型种”多肉植物的生长速度则逐渐变缓，甚至停止；而以蟹爪兰、猿恋苇等附生类仙人掌类植物；照波、龙须海棠等番杏科肉质化程度不高的种类，以及落日之雁、石莲花等景天科的大部分种类；菊科的泥鳅掌、绿之铃以及芦荟科的雪女王芦荟、卧牛等为代表的“中间型”多肉植物则处于生长旺季。 各类多肉植物的管理要按不同的种类和各地的具体气候进行。如有的地区，长时间阴雨连绵，则要注意控制浇水，防止在阳光不足的情况下造成多肉植物的徒长。 1、施肥 四月份可对生长旺盛的多肉植物施肥。多肉植物的施肥可分为基肥和追肥两大类，基肥一般在栽种时直接掺入土壤中，常用的有草木灰、骨粉、贝壳粉、腐熟的禽畜粪、饼肥等，此外，还有一些人工合成的缓释性颗粒肥料，可将其放在盆土表层，慢慢释放养分，供植株吸收，其清洁卫生，效果较好，可用于万象、玉扇、生石花等中高档种类的多肉植物；追肥则应根据不同的品种和生长期的差异进行。 新栽的植株一个月内不要施肥，长势较弱的植株也不要施肥。 对于大多数多肉植物来说可每半月施一次肥，生长缓慢的品种也可每月施一次，有些生长极为缓慢的品种甚至可不用施肥。施肥前几天不要浇水，等盆土基本干燥后，先在头天松松土，再在第二天施肥，以利于植物根部的吸收。除叶仙人学等个别品种外，大多数多肉植物根部的渗透压都很低，因此，施肥肥液的浓度一定不要过高。 肥料的种类应视植物的品种和生长阶段的不同而异。一般小苗期、叶多肉类且呈绿色的植物，氮肥施用量可稍多一些，而处于花芽分化期和开花结果期以及植株呈球状、柱状，叶色为红、黄或其它非绿色的品种应多施磷钾肥，茎干状多肉植物则要多施钾肥。 所用的有机肥可选择加水发酵的豆饼、芝麻饼以及鸡、鸽粪、骨粉等，无论何种肥都要充分腐熟，并加水稀释后才能使用。无机肥中的尿素、磷酸二氢钾、过磷酸钙等和市场出售的各种复合肥、家庭养花专用肥也可在植株生长旺盛时使用，但浓度要低，次数要少，否则会造成土壤板结，影响植株生长，反而得不偿失。但未经腐熟的蛋壳、豆浆、鲜牛奶等以及含盐分的肉汤、骨头则不可使用。施肥时注意不要把肥液溅到植株上。
2、浇水 四月份对于生长快的多肉植物品种可多浇水，生长慢的品种则要少浇水，总之，既要满足植物生长对水分的需要，又不能积水，对于正在生长的植物做到”保持土壤湿润，而不积水”是最佳的选择。 浇水时间一般在天气晴朗的上午或傍晚，若用自来水浇花，应将水晾2天~3天后再用，以使水内的氯气挥发，有利多肉植物生长。 在四月，还可在换盆时将繁殖过多的多肉植物制作成盆景或组合拼盘，以提高观赏价值，具有成形快、加工简单、养护容易等特点，非常适合家庭制作玩赏。 由于四月份的气温变化较大，应注意天气预报，掌握气候变化，当温度超过25℃时，应及时进行通风降温，防止因温度过高将植物蒸坏。若遇连绵阴雨天气则注意防止雨淋，以免积水造成植株腐烂。 本月还是”夏型种”多肉植物播种、扦插、嫁接的好季节。对于有病虫害隐患的植株要及时喷药预防，介壳虫也要刮掉，关于四月份多肉植物的种植管理还可以参照多肉植物的春季养护。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Miss Chen
多肉的萌想必不用多说，友友们应该深有体会，有多少人是别它吸引而入肉坑的。但是很多人都不清楚到底该怎么养它，今天小编给大家整理出来养殖多肉的四大误区，尤其对新手养肉帮助甚多。
一、误认为多肉植物要求阳光充足 只知多肉植物喜光，便不管三七二十一都去晒太阳，一年四季亦是如此。其实光照应该按照不同品种需求度、植物的生长周期、季节变化而行。 如果是休眠期，光线就不能太强；盛夏期间就要适当遮阴，生长期就要保证一定光照，最好是间接光或散射光，归根到底是要把握分寸。 二、误认为多肉植物种植习性砂壤土 这是一个广义上的概念，不同品种对土壤要求不一样，但决不是黄沙可通用的，相反有些品种原产地的土壤还相当肥沃。这里的砂壤土是混合黄沙和壤土的基质，应同时具备透气佳，排水好，适当供肥的功能。 壤土也可用其他有机介质代替，如泥炭、腐叶土、木屑等。沙也可用一些轻质材料代替，如椰糠、蛙石、直径在0.5cm左右的窑土等。 简单地说，其土壤配制要掌握有机和无机结合的原则，做到比例合理，可以参考适合多肉植物的介质和煤渣种植多肉的优缺点。
三、误认为多肉植物习性畏寒 满心欢喜地把心爱的”多肉植物”搬回家，冬天未到就匆匆加上保暖设备，殊不知严格意义上来说，做好多肉植物的”秋冻”比保暖措施更有意义。 一般而言10℃时大多品种可不必担心，多肉植物并不是温室里的花朵，不须过分爱苗心切。 四、误认为多肉植物喜干燥环境 由于原产地气候环境因素使某些品种非常耐干旱，有人便不分青红皂白一直不给植株供水导致萎缩、死亡。 这里有一点不能忽略：这些多肉植物品种在原产地每年会有一次集中降水来满足它对水份的需求。现在把它们盆栽后，由于根系生长受到影响，不及时供水就会对生长不利。有些爱好者模仿原产地的降水即在生长期进行大水灌溉，植株依然生长良好。 这里还要说明的另一点就是生长期的空气湿度也是很重要的，此阶段的空气湿度最好偏湿润点。总的来说要会区分好生长期和休眠期、冬型种和夏型种。 以上只是一些多肉植物种植广义上的概念，随着在种植过程中，对多肉植物的更加深入了解，相信你也会总结出适合自己的一套种植方式，走出多肉植物种植误区，只有这样，才能真正养好多肉植物。
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