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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
Watermelons are a warm-season crop prized for their sweet, juicy, bright pink fruit. Because watermelons need warm weather to both germinate and thrive, southern growers generally have more success with them. Likewise, because they require a long growing season of warm weather, getting your plants into the ground as early as possible will ensure a healthy crop. If you're a northern gardener or getting a late start, you can use techniques that will help you grow watermelons in less-than-ideal conditions.
Time to Harvest Like most fruit and vegetable plants, watermelon varieties vary in the amount of time you need to allot between planting and harvest. Early varieties such as Sugar Baby and Golden Crown require between 70 to 75 days between germination and harvest. Most watermelons -- including the seedless varieties -- need 80 to 85 days to fully ripen before harvest. Check the seed packet or plant tag for information on harvest time. Frost Tolerance Watermelons are a tender crop, meaning that they cannot survive frosts. While you can use tools and techniques to give your plants some protection from the cold, watermelons grow best in warm weather, so you should anticipate harvesting them before the first frost. To determine the last possible date when you can plant watermelons in your area, you first need to determine the first frost date for your region. The National Climatic Data Center maintains this information, and you can also find it from a cooperative extension agent or experienced nursery employee. Subtract the number of days needed until harvest, adding a week if you plan to start the plants from seed. This date is the last possible date you can plant watermelons in your area, although ideally, you should have them in the ground well before then. Extending the Season If you got a later start planting your watermelons than you intended, plant transplants rather than seeds, if possible. Watermelons grown from transplants are ready to harvest two weeks before those grown from seed. If you find temperatures dropping before your melons are ready for harvest, you can use several techniques to keep both the soil and the air around them warm. Black plastic mulch spread between the rows raises the soil temperature. To protect plants from cool weather and early frosts, cover plants with floating row covers. These lightweight covers allow full penetration of light and water while raising temperatures a few degrees around the plants.
Black plastic mulch raises soil temperatures to the minimum 60 degrees Fahrenheit that watermelons need. Gardeners in cool, northern climates have less room for error when planting watermelons. If you find yourself getting a late start because springtime conditions aren't warm enough for watermelons, you can jumpstart the melon season and better ensure a good harvest. Start seeds indoors four weeks before the last spring frost date in your area so that plants can go directly into the ground without waiting for germination. To warm the soil for your plants, use black plastic mulch but remove it or spray it white once summer temperatures heat up. Floating row covers can keep the occasional chilly spring day from damaging your plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
As a vegetable gardener, you're probably familiar with the good feeling most gardeners get from harvesting their own crops. It's disappointing, though, to see garden produce such as green peppers (Capsicum spp.) develop black areas and stop growing when they're only partially formed. Several problems can cause blackening of pepper fruits. So identifying the specific cause is an important first step in dealing with the problem and saving the remaining crop. Plant Diseases Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure. Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits. Fungal Problems Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants. The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop. Viral Infection An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it. Blossom End-Rot A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus. If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
The spicy flavor of a fresh radish is most pronounced immediately after harvest. Proper storage helps retain the flavor and quality of any radishes you can't use right away. Harvest radishes when the roots are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Smaller roots haven't developed their full flavor and larger roots become tough and woody. Prepare and store the radishes immediately after pulling so the roots don't begin to decline or lose their signature flavor.
Step 1 Cut the tops off the radish with a sharp, clean knife. Leave 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the top of the bulb. Step 2 Place the radishes in a perforated plastic storage bag. A perforated bag allows air circulation while retaining moisture during storage. Store in an open plastic bag if you don't have perforated bags. Step 3 Store the bagged radishes in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Store the radishes for up to a month in the refrigerator.
Step 4 Inspect the radishes once weekly. Use them immediately if they begin to discolor or develop soft spots.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is winter hardy and perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, but in most parts of the country it is grown as an annual garden vegetable. It is not tolerant of cold temperatures, and for good fruit development, it requires a long frost-free growing season. The plant is thought to have originated in India more than 1,500 years ago and to have come to North America with Spanish explorers sometime before the 19th century. Seedlings Eggplant seeds take one to two weeks to germinate after they're planted, and seedlings will be big and sturdy enough to transplant outdoors within six to 10 weeks after germination. Young plants are vulnerable to damage from frost and cold temperatures, so seedlings shouldn't be transplanted until the soil is warm, nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and all danger of frost has passed.
Mature Plants Mature plants are relatively large with branching stems, and their large leaves are oval-shaped or lobed, with a hairy, sometimes spiny, texture. Most eggplant varieties grow to a height of between 2 and 4 feet and may need support from a stake or cage when they're laden with heavy fruit. Some varieties, however, are compact and remain less than 2 feet tall. In mid-summer, plants bloom with star-shaped purple flowers which occur either singly or in clusters of two blossoms. The optimal daytime temperature for the plant's growth is between 70 and 85 degrees F, and if temperatures are above 95 degrees F, flowers and fruit may not develop properly. Fruit Development The flowers develop into fruit that, depending on the cultivar, vary in size, color and shape. The varieties traditionally grown in the United States produce fruit that is oval or pear-shaped and up to approximately 9 inches long, with a thick purple-black skin and dense white inner flesh. Varieties known as Asian, Chinese or Japanese eggplant produce fruit that is more elongated and slender. The fruit of other cultivars may be white, green, light purple or striped.
Eggplant fruit is ready for harvest when its skin is smooth and shiny and its flesh is firm. Fruit with dull or wrinkled skin or soft flesh is over-ripe; at this stage, the fruit's skin will be tough and its flavor likely bitter. Mature fruit is typically ready to harvest about 70 days after the plants have been set in the garden.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
The Walla Walla onion is a sweet white onion identified with the Pacific Northwest and the Walla Walla, Washington, area in particular. The onion is a bulb onion bred for use as a diced or sliced product rather than for use fresh as a green onion or as a small bulb for pickling. Onions are commonly harvested in the summer or early fall of the year.
Harvest Signs Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper. Harvest Timing Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer.
Trimming the Onion Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted. Storing the Onion Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
给友友们普及一下多肉的专业术语： 1、多肉植物(succulent plant ) 又称肉质植物、多浆植物，为茎、叶肉质，具有肥厚贮水组织的观赏植物。茎肉质多浆的如仙人掌科植物，叶肉质多浆的如龙舌兰科、景天科、大戟科等多肉植物。多肉植物的爱好者也喜欢简称其为“肉肉”。 2、科名(family)植物分类单位的学术用语，凡是花的形态结构接近的一个属或几个属，可以组成植物分类系统的一个科。如景天科由30个属组成。 3、属名(genus)植物分类单位的学术用语，每一个植物学名，必须由属名、种名和定名人组成。每一个属下可以包括一种至若干种。 4、种名(species)植物分类单位的学术用语，又叫学名，每一种植物只有一个学名。在属名之后，变种或栽培品种名之前。例如芦荟(Aloe vera var.chinensis)，其中Aloe为属名为种名var.chinensis为变种名。 5、变种(variety)物种与亚种之下的分类单位。如仙人掌科中的类栉球就是栉刺尤伯球的变种，狂刺金唬是金唬的变种等。 6、茎干状多肉植物(caudex succulent) 植物的肉质部分主要在茎的基部，形成膨大而形状不一的肉质块状体或球状体。如京舞妓、椭叶木棉、光堂等。
7、雌雄异株(heterothallism) 指单性花分别着生于不同植株上，由此，出现了雄株和雌株之分。 8、两性花(hermaphrodite flower)一朵花中，兼有雄蕊群和雌蕊群。大多数多肉植物为两性花，开花后都能正常结实。 9、单生(simple，solitary) 指植株茎干单独生长不产生分枝和不生子球。如仙人掌中的翁柱和金唬。 10、群生(clustering) 指许多密集的新枝或子球生长在一起。如仙人掌中的松霞，多肉植物中的茜之塔等。 11、休眠(dormancy)植物处于自然生长停顿状态，还会出现落叶或地上部死亡的现象。常发生在冬季和夏季。 12、夏型种(summer type) 生长期在夏季，而冬季呈休眠状态的多肉植物，称之夏型植物或冬眠型植物。主要是开花的时间在夏季。这里的夏季指肉肉在原产地的夏季气候，如果天气太热，肉肉依旧会休眠。 13、冬型种(winter type)生长期在冬季，而夏季呈休眠状态，称之冬型植物或夏眠型植物。这里的冬季是指肉肉在原产地的冬季气候，如果夭气太冷，肉肉依旧会休眠。 14、攀援茎(climbing stem) 依靠特殊结构攀援它物而向上生长的茎。如景天科中的极乐鸟，薯菠科中的龟甲龙等。 15、气生根(aerial roots) 由地上部茎所长出的根，在虹之玉、梅兔耳的成年植株上经常可见。 16、软质叶(soft leaf) 多肉植物中柔嫩多汁、很容易被折断或为病虫所害的有些种类的叶片。一般称其为软质叶系，如十二卷属中的玉露等。 17、硬质叶(thick leaf) 指多肉植物中一些叶片肥厚坚硬的种类。一般称其为硬质叶系，如十二卷属中的琉璃殿、条纹十二卷等。 18、莲座叶丛(rosette)指紧贴地面的短茎上，辐射状丛生多叶的生长形态，其叶片排列的方式形似莲花。如景天科的石莲花属、风车草属等。 19、叶齿(leaf-teeth) 常指多肉植物肥厚叶片边缘的肉质刺状物。常见于百合科芦荟属植物，如不夜城、不夜城锦、翡翠殿等。 20、叶刺(leaf thorn)由叶的一部分或全部转变成的刺状物，叶刺可以减少蒸腾并起到保护作用。如仙人掌科植物的刺就是叶刺。 21、窗(window) 许多多肉植物，如百合科的十二卷属，其叶面顶端有透明或半透明部分，称之为“窗”。其窗面的变化也是品种的分类依据。 22、吸芽(absorptive bud)又叫分孽(nie)，是植物地下茎的节上或地上茎的腋芽中产生的芽状体。如长生草、石莲花等母株旁生的小植株。 23、叶痕(leaf scar) 叶脱落后，在茎枝上所留下的叶柄断痕。叶痕的排列顺序与大小，可作为鉴别植物种类的依据。 24、杂交(hybridization) 使两种植物杂交以便获得具两种亲本特性的新品种的行为。例如白牡丹为石莲花属与风车属的属间杂交品种。 25、嫁接(grafting)把母株的茎、子球接到砧木上使其结合成为新植株的一种繁殖方法。用于嫁接的茎、统突或子球叫做接穗，承受接穗的植物称为砧木。 26、砧木(stock)又称台木。植物嫁接繁殖时与接穗相接的植株。在仙人掌植物的嫁接中，普遍使用量天尺做砧木，多肉植物则常采用霸王鞭做砧木。 27、叶插(leaf cutting) 将多肉植物叶片的一部分插于基质中，促使生根，长成新的植株的一种繁殖方法。 28、更新(renewal) 通过修剪手段，包括重剪和剪除老枝等办法，促使新的枝条生长。 29、晾根(air-cured root)当土壤过湿和根部病害，导致多肉植物发生烂根，出现黄叶时，可将植株从土壤中取出，把根部暴露在空气中晾干，利于消灭病菌和恢复生机。 30、锦(variegation)又称彩斑、斑锦。茎部全体或局部丧失了制造叶绿素的功能，而其他色素相对活跃，使茎部表面出现红、黄、白、紫、橙等色或色斑。在品名写法上常用f.vataegata或‘Variegata/“。 31、缀化(fasciation) 或称冠，是一种不规则的芽变现象。这种畸形的缀化，是某些分生组织细胞反常性发育的结果，其学名的写法上常用f.crmata或/“Cristata/“。
32、冠状(cristate)叶部、茎部或花朵呈鸡冠状生长，又称鸡冠状，如绯牡丹缀化。 33、芽变(bud mutation) 一个植物营养体出现的与原植物不同、可以遗传并可用无性繁殖的方法保存下来的性状。如多肉植物中的许多斑锦和扁化品种。 34、突变(mutation)指植物的遗传组织发生突然改变的现象，使植株出现新的特征，且这种新的特征可遗传于子代中。多肉植物还可以通过嫁接方法把新的特征固定下来。 35、黄化(yellowing)指植物由于缺乏光照，造成叶片褪色变黄和茎部过度生长的现象。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
夏天即将到来，蚊香又成了最枪手的商品，无论是电蚊香还是燃烧的蚊香都是供不应求。但近几年很多人都听说过“猪笼草”也有驱蚊的效果，它可以吸引蚊子靠近，然后用自身的弱酸性液体腐蚀它。在加上此植物的外貌也比较特殊，所以深受众人喜爱。
昨日，记者在位于市中心几个路口的盆栽店看到，不少消费者已经开始选购“猪笼草”等具有灭蚊作用的绿色植物了。一些盆栽植物在被冠以“杀灭蚊虫，吸收异味”的牌子后，受到不少消费者的喜爱。 那么，利用“猪笼草”驱蚊到底有效果吗？为此，记者采访了中国科学院植物研究所花卉科普办公室园艺专家卢先生，所卢先生介绍，猪笼草原产地是热带地区，对生长环境条件要求十分苛刻，作为观赏植物在高温高湿的室内可以生长，但在家居环境很难生存。“吸食蚊虫完全是商家强加给它的特效，事实上只有非常少的机会能吸引到虫子，根本达不到驱蚊的效果。”
关于夏季到底哪些植物能驱蚊，记者咨询了花艺师裴小姐。其实，一般来说凡是具有气味的植物都有驱蚊作用。市场上常见的驱蚊植物有绿叶白花驱蚊草、翠叶黄花驱蚊草、紫叶红花驱蚊草、怡香金菊驱蚊草、夜来香、薰衣草、天竺葵、薄荷、七里香等。但其中夜来香已经被列为50种室内有害植物。因为夜来香花的香味浓烈，对于患有高血压和心脏病的人，长期闻这种浓郁的香味可能会发生呼吸道难受的情况，所以夜来香在盛花期间不要放在室内。 除了灭蚊绿色植物，其实还有一个灭蚊方式也比较环保。灭蚊灯，利用蚊子对特殊波长的敏感性，通过光催化二氧化碳来吸引蚊子，利用外围的高压电网瞬间将蚊虫杀死。无烟无味而且能耗低，是最环保的灭蚊工具。 不过，使用灭蚊灯时，最好关掉室内其他光源，将其悬挂于距离地面大约1米的高度，这是蚊子经常活动的范围。灭蚊灯应常常改变放置地点，隐蔽的角落、桌下为最佳，也可以在灭蚊灯的集虫盒里加点水和醋，利用蚊子喜欢酸性物质的特性，达到最佳捕蚊效果。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
相信很多友友都发生过此现象，就是你的养的绿植被别人当做烟灰缸来使用，那么烟灰对植物到底有没有伤害呢？今天小编就给大家讲解一下。
一般情况下，我们可以把烟灰看成是烟草经过燃烧的残留固形物，而这种残留固形物一般都含有对植物生长有益的多种元素。由此来看，把烟灰抖到花盆里对花卉的生长的确是有好处的。不过，有一点也是必须要说清楚的，在烟灰中含有一种碱性很强的盐叫碳酸钾，如果总是往花盆中抖烟灰，那么喜欢酸性土壤的花卉就会由于土壤逐渐变成碱性而受不了；要是往花盆里放了太多的烟灰，就是喜碱性土壤的花卉也可能会因为烟灰所含盐类大量溶解而根系被“灼伤”。
所以要想变废为宝，而且也不伤害花卉的话，最好的方法就是把烟灰收集在一个瓶子里加进一些水，然后用磷酸或盐酸把ph值调整到中性。经过栽培结果表明，这种经过处理的烟灰溶液确是一种营养非常丰富的花卉肥料呢。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen
植物养护中很较重要的一步就是给植物更换盆土，良好的培养土能使盆栽植物长势良好。常常通过判断土壤的酸碱度对土壤是不是适合植物生长做出判断，那么在我们要如何判断土壤的酸碱度呢?接下来就跟小编一起来了解一下吧。
一、看质地：酸性土壤质地疏松，透气透水性强;碱性土壤质地坚硬，容易板结成块，通气透水性差。 二、看土源：一般采自山川，沟壑的腐殖土，多呈黑褐色，比较疏松，肥沃，通透性良好，是比较理想的酸性腐殖土。如：松针腐殖土，草炭腐殖土等。 三、看土色：酸性土壤一般颜色较深，多为黑褐色，而碱性土壤颜色多呈白、黄等浅色。有些盐碱地区，土表经常有一层白粉状的碱性物质。 四、凭手感：酸性土壤握在手中有一种“松软”的感觉，松手以后，土壤容易散开，不易结块;碱性土壤握在手中有一种“硬实”的感觉，松手以后容易结块而不散开。 五、看地表植物：在野外采掘花土时，可以观察一下地表生长的植物，一般生长野杜鹃、松树、杉类植物的土壤多为酸性土;而生长柽柳、谷子、高梁等地段的土多为碱性土。
六、用pH试纸来测土壤的酸碱性，方法为：取部分土样浸泡于凉开水中，将试纸的一部分浸入浸泡液，后取出，观察其颜色的变化，然后将试纸与比色卡相比较，若pH值=7，土壤为中性;若pH值<7，则为酸性;若pH值>7，则为碱性。 七、看浇水后的情形：酸性土壤浇水以后下渗较快，不冒白泡，水面较浑;碱性土壤浇水后，下渗较慢，水面冒白泡，起白沫，有时花盆外围还有一层白色的碱性物质。 酸性土壤和碱性土壤并没有谁优谁劣，因为植物的生长环境不同，所以植物租赁在更换植物土壤的时候，应该根据植物的生长需要，选择酸性土壤还是碱性土壤作为盆土。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Miss Chen

Q：水生植物适合放在室内吗? A：首先考虑摆放位置的光线是否充足，一般居家的南向及西向窗台较为适合，如果光照不足，可尝试以日光灯补充日照，或是先移到室内观赏2－4天，再回到阳台1－2周。 成都花卉租赁问答：花卉养殖问答－水生植物 Q：如何照顾不同种类的水生植物呢？ A：水生植物可分为挺水性，浮水性和沉水性三大类，大多数都需要充足日照，尤其生长期间，当光照不足就会发生茎节徒长，叶片变小而薄，或是不开花等现象，同时也要注意时常补充足够的水。 Q：水生植物需要施肥吗？ A：建议使用化学肥料为佳，以避免污染水质，施用量必须较一般植物稀释10倍。开花型水生植物，可以每3个月施用一次长效性固体肥料，观叶型水生植物，于春、秋季期间每个月施用1次液体肥料。冬季休眠期不要施肥。
Q：草花放在阳台可以养活吗？ A：如果家中为日照充足的南、西向阳台或是顶楼的话，对于大部分的草花都无问题。东向与北向阳台，可以种植稍耐阴的凤仙花类与四季秋海棠。 成都花卉租赁攻略：花卉养殖问答－草花植物 Q：该如何帮草花、盆花浇水呢？ A：建议直接浇水于介质里，以免水滴滞留在花朵之上，造成花瓣损伤甚至腐烂。 Q：为什么草花花期过后不适合继续栽培呢？ A：这是因为草花多属于一年生植物；而具有多年生长特性的草花，在酷热的季节，需要特别细心照顾才能在下一个生长期继续开花，但付出的心力所获得的栽培结果，仍不及买一株新的回来种。草花价格十分低廉，因此多建议作为当季栽培观赏即可。
Q：多肉植物是不是都不用浇水？ A：其实多肉植物还是需要水的，但是请谨记“干燥再浇，一次要浇透”的原则，不需要每天给水。此外，当气候闷热的夏季，部分多肉植物都会进入休眠期，可以浇水间隔再拉长以帮助适应环境。 成都花卉租赁之花卉养殖问答－多肉植物 Q：多肉植物都喜欢炎热的气候？ A：多肉植物喜欢的是“高温差”的环境，而非“高温”。春秋季天气凉爽多变化的时候，是多肉植物最佳的生长季，换盆、繁殖等动作都可以把握这个时机进行。 Q：多肉植物会有病虫害吗？ A：当较为闷热潮湿或长期缺水的时候，介壳虫算是比较容易发生的一种病虫害，尽速用刷子去除即可。相较于一般植物，多肉植物算是少有病虫害的一个族群。
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