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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
火鹤花具有鲜艳夺目的特色，许多欧美人士把它视为“热烈、豪放”的象征，普遍采用西方插花的气派，用低浅的瓶Int集丛插养，周围再衬陪白色或紫色的小花，使厅堂显得异常瑰丽和华贵。此外，当新店开张或婚礼喜庆时，人们还挑选它砌作花篮，以增添欢乐的气氛。檀长花道的日本人对火鹤花也非常好感，她们在运用“天、地、人”的插花方式时往往把火鹤花插在“天”的位置，以显示它的英姿，并且冠以“大红团扇”的美誉。
火鹤花的基本信息： 火鹤花又名红掌、花烛、安祖花。属天南星科花烛属多年生草本。有佛焰花序，叶形苞片，常见的苞片颜色有红、粉红、白等，有其花落时也可观叶。可用播种、分株等法繁殖。粉掌较红掌难以培养。原产于南美洲的热带雨林地区。它的特性是喜暖畏寒、喜湿怕旱，喜阴忌晒。 火鹤花是多年生附生常绿草本植物，叶革质丛生，长圆披针形，先端尖，基部圆形。根肉质，节间短;叶常绿，革质，长椭圆状心脏形。佛焰苞直立开展，肉穗花序无柄，圆柱形，先端黄色，下部白色，花两性，小浆果内有种子2-4粒，粉红色，密集于肉穗花序上。花期2月-7月，如温湿度适宜则可常年开花。
火鹤花的养殖方法： 1、土壤：火鹤花培养土以富含腐殖质、疏松而排水良好的壤土最好。宜用2份腐叶、土或泥炭土、l份珍珠岩或粗沙配成培养土，或用腐叶土(或泥炭土l份、园土l份、苔藓)和木炭l份再加少量过磷酸钙或骨粉配成培养土。 2、浇水：火鹤花喜温润，故每天需向叶面喷雾。保持湿度，有利于叶片生长。排水不良或盆土过湿易烂根，生长旺期注意保持盆土有充足的水分。浇水宜干湿相间，一次浇水后待盆土表面见干再浇下一次水。喜偏酸的水，可以pH4～4.5的偏酸水或用雨水浇灌。 3、阳光：火鹤花喜半阴、怕强光，故夏季宜放置室内北面窗口养护，春、秋季节放在南面窗口附近，冬季放朝南窗台上，使其接受较充足的光照，这样会生长茁壮、叶绿花繁。如能在开花后移至室外有遮阴处培养一段时间，则长势更好。 4、温度：火鹤花生长的适宜温度为20℃-25℃，它所能忍耐的最高温是32℃，超过32℃生长开始缓慢。可忍耐的最低温度是15℃，在15℃以下会发生冻害叶片变黑或变黄。 5、施肥：火鹤花在4至10月为生长期，每半月施肥1次，5-9月为生长旺盛期，每周施追肥一次，现蕾后开花前更不能缺肥。追肥以腐熟有机质液肥为主，并配合施用磷、钾肥或复合肥。 6、虫害：火鹤花常见炭疽病、叶斑病和花序腐烂病等危害，用波尔多液或65%代森锌可湿性粉剂500倍液喷洒。虫害有介壳虫和红蜘蛛，可用50%马拉松乳油1500倍液喷杀。 火鹤花花色艳丽，花序螺旋状卷曲，风姿楚楚给人一种明快热烈的感受，深受人们的喜爱，很多人都会选择摆放在家居客厅等地方，火鹤花的养殖方法就介绍到这里，相信大家对火鹤花的养殖都有了一定了解。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
龟背竹叶形奇特，孔裂纹状，极像龟背。茎节粗壮又似罗汉竹，深褐色气生根，纵横交差，形如电线。其叶常年碧绿，茎粗壮,节上有较大的新月形叶痕,生有索状肉质气生根，极为耐阴,是有名的室内大型盆栽观叶植物。 但日常养殖中总会出现叶子发黄的现象，这是什么原因造成的呢？又该如何解决呢？
龟背竹叶子发黄的原因： 龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：1、土壤不适 龟背竹原为寄生性植物，发达的根系为肉质根，对土壤的疏松透气性要求较高。粘性及微粘性土都会不同程度地影响根系的生长。若土壤透气性不好或长时间不换土，就有可能会引起土壤板结，影响龟背竹的呼吸作用，从而使龟背竹生长不良，叶片变黄。 解决方法：家庭盆栽龟背竹，栽培土可用熟黄土2份，蜂窝煤灰1份，鸡粪1份拌制的混合土。这样既能保证龟背竹的盆栽用土的透气性还能满足生长所需的肥料要求。 龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：2、浇水过多或过少 水多会引起龟背竹的烂根现象，水少会使植株缺水而生长不良，这两种情况都会引起龟背竹的黄叶现象。 解决方法：龟背竹要定期浇水，一次浇透，保持盆土表面稍干燥，空气干燥时，向环境和龟背竹叶片上洒水。
龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：3、光照过强或过暗 龟背竹耐阴，但是长期将龟背竹放置在荫蔽环境下，会影响光合作用，而使叶片变黄;同时，也不能将龟背竹放置在强光下，强光照射会引起龟背竹的叶片灼伤而变黄。 解决方法：龟背竹在夏季要注意遮阴，最好给龟背竹晒些散射光。 龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：4、温度过低 龟背竹的生长适温20～25℃，冬季夜间温度幼苗期不低于10℃，成熟植株短时间可耐5℃，低于5℃易发生冻害，引起龟背竹叶片变黄。 解决方法：冬季需对龟背竹的根部进行适当保暖，以增强植株的抗寒能力，但不要把龟背竹直接放在暖气片上或空调旁边。 龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：5、施肥过少 铁是植物合成叶绿素所必须的原料，如果土壤或肥料中铁元素不足，就会影响龟背竹合成叶绿素，从而引起叶片失绿变黄。 解决方法：因缺铁而引起叶片发黄，应施用矾肥水或喷施0.1—0.3%硫酸亚铁溶液。 龟背竹叶子发黄的原因：6、通风不良 通风不好时会引起龟背竹叶片的闷黄。 解决方法：要保持室内通风良好，也可以将龟背竹白天放室内观赏，晚上搬到室外。 美丽奇特多姿的龟背竹是著名的室内盆栽观叶植物，但平时要注意养护，养护不当会出现叶子发黄等问题，龟背竹叶子发黄的常见原因及解决方法就介绍到这里了，希望对大家有所帮助。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
枸骨盆景产长江流域中下游各省，为亚热带树种。枸骨枝繁叶茂，叶浓绿而有光泽，且叶形奇特。秋冬红果满枝，浓艳夺目，是一种优良的观叶观花盆景树种。可取老桩制作盆景，其形态苍古奇特，确有一番风味。取小树，采取剪扎结合的方法也可制成商品盆景。装饰应用可在庭院作绿篱栽培，也可盆栽，陈设于厅堂，放在几架上，因有刺勿让儿童触摸，以免受伤。 枸骨枝叶稠密，叶形奇特，深绿光亮，入秋红果累累，经冬不凋，鲜艳美丽，是良好的观叶、观果树种。宜作基础种植及岩石园材料，也可孤植于花坛中心、对植于前庭、路口，或丛植于草坪边缘。同时又是很好的绿篱（兼有果篱、刺篱的效果）及盆栽材料，选其老桩制作盆景亦饶有风趣。果枝可供瓶插，经久不凋。 枸骨的养殖方法： 1、土壤：枸骨喜欢排水良好的酸性肥沃土壤，盆栽种植枸骨宜用肥沃疏松、透气性好的微酸性、中性或钙质土壤，常用腐叶土或熟化田园土，掺拌适量沙土。 2、浇水：生长旺盛时期需勤浇水，一般需保持盆土湿润、不积水，夏季需常向叶面喷水，以利蒸发降温。 3、阳光：枸骨耐阴，宜放置于半阴和湿润的环境中养护，干燥和强光都不适宜其生长。 4、施肥：一般春季每2周施一次稀薄的饼肥水，秋季每月追肥一次，夏季可不施肥，冬季施一次肥。
5、虫害：危害枸骨的害虫主要有木虱、介壳虫。有时枝干会发生因木虱危害而引起的煤污病，可喷洒波尔多液，涂以石硫合剂进行防冶。介壳虫危害严重时，会导致不能结果，可喷洒40%敌敌畏1000倍液喷杀。合理修剪、改善通风透光，可减轻虫害。 6、修剪：枸骨萌发力很强，很耐修剪，对成景的作品，平时可剪去不必要的徒长枝、萌发枝和多余的芽，以保持一定的树型。对需加工的树材，可根据需要保留一定的枝条，以利加工造型。 枸骨枝叶繁茂，叶形奇特，秋天果子就变得红红的，鲜艳美丽，很有观赏价值，但在养殖的时候要注意保护，枸骨果子易引鸟啄食，要遮盖保护。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
鹅掌柴是一种大型的盆栽植物，摆设在家居中可以轻易打造和谐的绿色环境，鹅掌柴本是热带、亚热带地区常绿阔叶林常见的植物，喜温暖、湿润、半阳环境，宜生于土质深厚肥沃的酸性土中，稍耐瘠薄，生长适温为16～27℃。喜湿怕干，在空气湿度大、土壤水分充足的情况下，茎叶生长茂盛，但水分太多，造成渍水，会引起烂根。对光照的适应范围广，在全日照、半日照或半阴环境下均能生长，但光照的强弱与叶色有一定关系。土壤以肥沃、疏松和排水良好的砂质壤土为宜，盆栽土用泥炭土、腐叶土和粗沙的混合土壤。
最近有很多人反映在养殖过程中出现了掉叶子的情况，下面小编带大家去了解下鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因以及解决方法： 鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因： 鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因：1、光照过少 鹅掌柴喜半阴，一般是放在明亮散射光下培养的，如果摆放的室内比较暗，会影响鹅掌柴的生长，导致掉叶子。 解决方法：把鹅掌柴摆放在室外或者窗边等地方进行养护，不能让强光直射，但要提供足够的散光。
鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因：2、施肥不足 鹅掌柴对肥料有一定的要求，尤其是在生长期要有足够的肥料，如果肥料不足鹅掌柴叶子也会变黄掉落。 解决方法：夏季生长期间每周施肥一次，可用氮、磷、钾等量的颗粒肥松土后施入。 鹅掌柴掉叶子是鹅掌柴养殖中很常见的一种问题，需要针对原因来进行解决，鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因及解决方法就给大家介绍到这里了，希望对大家有所帮助。 鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因：3、光照过强 光照过强也是造成鹅掌柴掉叶子的原因之一，鹅掌柴在阳光曝晒下叶片易枯黄掉落，尤其是一下子从没有阳光的地方搬到阳光强烈处进行养殖，掉叶子的情况会更加严重。 解决方法：鹅掌柴不适合在强光下生长，如果要离开原本的地方，也要慢慢的进行地方转变，让鹅掌柴有一段时间适应。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
鹅掌柴别称鸭掌木、鹅掌木等，为五加科鹅掌柴属常绿灌木植物，观赏价值非常高，大型盆栽植物适用于宾馆大厅、图书馆的阅览室和博物馆展厅摆放，呈现自然和谐的绿色环境，春、夏、秋也可放在庭院蔽荫处和楼房阳台上观赏，下面跟大家一起分享一下家庭养护鹅掌柴的一些小技巧。
1、土壤：鹅掌柴要求土质深厚、疏松肥沃的土壤，盆栽一般可选用腐叶土或泥炭土、园土加1/4左右的河沙或珍珠岩混匀配制，为使其肥沃另加少量饼肥末作基肥。 2、浇水：在空气湿度高、土壤水分充足的环境下生长良好，注意盆土不能缺水，否则会引起叶片大量脱落。冬季低温条件下应适当控水。如使用塑料容器则要注意排水。要保持土壤湿润，不待干透就要及时浇水，天气干燥时，还应向植株喷雾增湿;梅雨期间要防止盆中积水。 3、阳光：鹅掌柴喜半阴，宜放在明亮散射光下莳养。光线适宜时叶色油绿明艳，可较长期欣赏。冬季可将其移放到南窗附近培育，使其多接受些阳光照射则叶色光亮。最好每年春、秋两季将花盆移至室外通风良好和适当光照条件下培养一段时间，但室外养护期间一定要避免阳光曝晒，否则叶片易枯黄，降低观赏价值。
4、温度：鹅掌柴不耐寒，冬季室温需保持在10℃以上;若室温长时间低于8℃，叶片就会逐渐枯黄;温度降到O℃以下则叶片脱落，茎枝干枯而死。所以，冬季养护保持适宜温度很重要。 5、虫害：主要有叶斑病和炭疽病危害，可用10%抗菌剂401醋酸溶液1000倍液喷洒。虫害主要有介壳虫危害，用40%氧化乐果乳油1000倍液喷杀。另外，红蜘蛛、蓟马和潜叶蛾等危害鹅掌柴叶片，可用10%二氯苯醚菊酯乳油3000倍液喷杀。 6、修剪：鹅掌柴容易萌发徒长枝，因此，对成株需经常注意整形和修剪，才能保持株形整齐美观。多年生老枝，株形长得过于庞大时，可在每年新芽萌发之前结合换盆进行重剪，剪去上部枝叶和一部分老根。 鹅掌柴叶片油亮碧绿，是良好的家居盆栽植物之一，观赏价值比较高，适合摆放在书房、客厅等地方，鹅掌柴的养殖方法就介绍到这里了，希望对大家有所帮助。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Miss Chen
A normal planting depth of 1 to 3 inches protects seed potato pieces from frost damage even during a hard freeze. Potato leaves survive light frosts with little injury, but leaves and stems die back to the ground in colder temperatures. Seed potatoes send up new shoots to replace frost-killed tops. Protecting plants during the last frosts of spring preserves the advantage gardeners gain from early planting.
Planting Times Gardeners could plant potatoes as soon as the ground thaws in spring and dries enough to work without compacting. Planting in March, several weeks before the last frost date in most areas, gives potatoes a chance for a longer growing season. The extra days increase yields, since potato tubers stop growing when soil heats to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Late frosts might kill early potato plants back to the ground, but potatoes nearly always recover. Early plantings exposed to long periods of cold rainy weather could fail for other reasons. Cold and wet conditions delay sprouting and cause seed pieces to rot. Critical Temperatures Light frosts cause little harm to potato plants, but the difference between a harmless light frost and a heavy frost measures only a few degrees. Temperatures between 29 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cause light frost, but temperatures from 25 to 28 degrees inflict serious damage to potatoes. In the fall, a hard freeze of 24 degrees or below ends the season, but a brief hard freeze in spring only kills potato plants to ground level. Elevation and ground slope influence the severity of frosts. Potatoes planted on depressed ground sit in frost pockets that collect cold air. Potatoes growing on slopes at higher levels experience warmer temperatures and less frost damage.
Protection Planting potatoes in mounded rows warms soil faster than flat row systems and it encourages early sprouting. A light mulch of straw over newly emerged potato plants traps ground warmth and protects the tender plants from freezing temperatures. Row covers offer better protection, increasing night temperatures in the potato row by 5 degrees Fahrenheit, according to master gardener Patti O'Neal on the Jeffco Gardener website. Fabric row covers work better than either plastic or paper. Any cover that contacts leaves conducts enough heat to burn leaf tips but will protect other parts of the plant. Chitting Forcing potatoes to sprout before planting, or chitting, adds to the growing season without adding risk of frost damage. Potatoes sprout after a month in storage at temperatures of 55 degrees Fahrenheit, if exposed to indirect lighting. Allowing seed potatoes to develop 1/2-inch sprouts before planting guarantees early growth in safely controlled conditions. Cut the sprouting potatoes into pieces at least 1/2 inch thick, with one or more sprouts per piece. Give the cut surfaces a day to harden off and plant just before the last frost date. Plant the pieces flat side down and be careful not to break the sprouts as you cover the row with soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Miss Chen
The vegetable called broccoli found at markets is the immature flower heads of the plant Brassica oleracea var. italica. Broccoli is related to cabbage and other members of the cole family. High in vitamin A and D, broccoli makes a healthy addition to the vegetable garden. Broccoli grows during the cool weather in spring and fall. In cool climates, broccoli grows well in summer.
Seed Germination Broccoli is an annual vegetable plant. The first step in the growing season is seed germination. Start broccoli seeds indoors in individual 3-inch pots six weeks before the last spring frost date. Broccoli seeds take one to two weeks to germinate. Keep broccoli seeds at 80 degrees F during germination. Use a heating pad under the seed flat, or keep the seeds in a greenhouse where the temperature is consistently 80 degrees F. Plant Development Seedling development takes three to four weeks after the seeds germinate. During seedling development, broccoli plants develop roots and their first leaves. Once the seedlings emerge from the soil, remove them from the heating pad and place them in an area where the air temperature is between 60 and 65 degrees F. Keep broccoli seedlings indoors until they are four weeks old. Water the seedlings by soaking each pot when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Always use pots with drainage holes in the bottom. Standing water around the young, developing broccoli roots causes rot and seedling death. Early and Mature Harvest Flowering Tops Broccoli develops a stalk and mature leaves before producing the flowering top. Broccoli plants mature for harvest in 50 to 65 days after planting. Transplant broccoli as early as possible in spring after the last frost date and when the soil temperature warms to 60 or 65 degrees F. Use a soil thermometer to determine the soil temperature before planting out the seedlings. Keep the soil damp around the developing broccoli plants and remove weeds by hand.
Harvest and Seed Collection The last stage of growth before harvest is the development of flower heads. Harvest broccoli when the flower heads are 6 to 8 inches across and compact, with tightly closed green buds. Developing broccoli heads can be harvested at any point. The final stage of broccoli development is the flower and seed development. Any broccoli that is allowed to go to seed will not be harvestable. Allow a few plants to go to seed for next year's crop. Harvest the seed pods when they dry and turn brown on the plant. Till the old plant material into the soil in the fall after the last harvest.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Miss Chen
Broccoli is a healthy green vegetable whose reputation often makes it out to be scarier than it is. A flexible vegetable, it can be served raw, steamed, baked into a casserole or stir-fried; the possibilities are nearly endless, and planting some in the backyard can mean added freshness and taste. Because of a relatively short growing period, some areas can support more than one broccoli crop. Types
Different varieties of broccoli have different growing times, but most are around 60 days from planting in the garden to harvesting the broccoli. This equation assumes plants are started from seed and allowed approximately 30 days growing time inside. The "Green Goliath" takes about 60 days to mature, but is also one of the more hardy options to plant. Because it is tolerant of heat and cold, plants can go into the outdoor garden earlier than some other types. The short growing season also allows for the late planting of a fall crop, and because of its cold hardiness the Green Goliath is also well-suited to late plantings. Other types, such as the "Green Comet," are less hardy but have a shorter growing time of about 55 days from transplant to maturity. Starting Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be planted indoors to give plants a head start before being moved out into the elements outside. Germination and the growth of young plants is most successful when the temperature is consistent and kept between 60 and 70 Fahrenheit. Plant seedlings in a large, flat container approximately an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch below the soil. Placing a light material such as cheesecloth over the seeds will establish enough of a barrier that they will be encouraged to grow unhindered outwards rather than upwards while still allowing light to reach them. Tall, leggy plants will not produce the stout, rounded broccoli crowns that are most desirable, and keeping plants short will help ensure healthy, compact crowns. Seeds can be started in trays can kept indoors for between 25 and 35 days. Depending on the area and outdoor climate, plan to transplant seeds when there is no more danger of freezing temperatures or frost. Transplanting By the time seedlings are transplanted, they should be approximately but not more than 4 inches tall. Once they are planted in the garden, it will take approximately two months for them to reach maturity. During this time, fertilizing once (about three weeks after transplanting) with nitrogen and keeping the soil moist can help to ensure maximum growth rate. Alternately, the seedlings can also be planted using not only water but a mixture of water and 5-10-10 fertilizer. Multiple Crops Because broccoli is tolerant of cool weather as well as warm and can be started inside, in many temperate areas, it is possible to plant three broccoli crops in a single season. For example, starting the first seeds in March will allow for transplanting in April, with a crop harvested in the beginning of June. Starting another crop of seeds indoors in the beginning of May will create seedlings ready to plant in June and harvest in August. Repeating the process -- starting seeds in July, transplanting after the August harvest and finishing the last harvest in the beginning of October -- will allow gardeners to get in several crops.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Miss Chen
Shallots, the mild-tasting onions favored by the French, can be expensive to buy at the grocery store but grow easily in a home garden. If you can grow onions, you can grow shallots. All you need is well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, plenty of moisture and a few shallot sets from the grocery store. Shallots mature over the course of one summer, producing a set of small onions, rather than one large onion. Harvest them for use in sauces or savory dishes but save a few to plant for the following spring.
Step 1 Buy French shallots from the grocery store. Look for shallots that have firm, dry skins and are heavy in size. Avoid those with soft or sunken spots. Make sure you are buying true French shallots, rather than multiplier onions, which do not taste like shallots. Step 2 Pull apart the shallot clusters to form individual bulbs. Some vendors sell individual shallots, rather than clusters, eliminating this step. Step 3 Spread 3 inches of compost over the garden area. Dig it into a depth of 8 inches with a shovel. Plant shallots in early spring as soon as the soil is soft enough to work. Plant them 2 inches deep, with the pointed end up, and 6 inches apart.
Step 4 Water the soil frequently to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Pull weeds by hand early because shallots don't compete well with them. A weedy garden bed diminishes yields. Step 5 Harvest shallots in the fall when the leaves have died back. Dig them up, brush off the earth and allow them to cure in a dry location for several days. Store them in mesh bags or baskets.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Miss Chen
Believe it or not, watermelons are actually vegetables and members of the cucumber and squash family. Regardless of what you call them though, watermelons place second only to tomatoes in the home garden for highest concentrations of lycopene. Lycopene is an antioxidant that reduces the risks of many diseases, including some cancers and cardiovascular diseases. So eat up your watermelon and reap its benefits. But alas, this may be difficult if your watermelon is not ripe. While it's best to let watermelon ripen in the field, you have one last resort to help it along if necessary.
Step 1 Leave the watermelon alone to ripen on the vine. The biggest indicator that a watermelon is ripe is the bottom where it sits on the ground. It must be a cream or yellow color, not green or white. Other signs that a watermelon is ripe include: a pale green color between the stripes, a dry and curvy tendril, a smooth rind and round edges. Step 2 Wrap a picked, unripe watermelon in a paper bag. This could help it ripen some if you inadvertently obtained a melon that does look ripe.
Step 3 Store it at room temperature, not in refrigerator. Check every few days to see if the watermelon has ripened.
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