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Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Miss Chen
玫瑰和月季都是蔷薇科植物，花型、花色相似度很高。近日，许多网友问到月季和玫瑰的区别。如果小编告诉你，其实市场上卖的玫瑰基本上都是月季，会不会感到很失望?但这确实是一个残酷的事实，并且早有专家学者对此下过结论：2月14日那天中国花店里卖的玫瑰确实都是月季。为什么会这样呢?月季和玫瑰的区别到底在哪?
玫瑰和月季属于同科不同属的植物，即都属于蔷薇科，其英文名称统称为“Rose”。由于玫瑰的观赏价值远不如月季高，比如月季的品种有几百种，颜色也丰富多彩，有红、紫、黑、蓝等等，而玫瑰的品种不多，颜色也比较单纯。因此，现在种植玫瑰主要用于食用、制作昂贵的玫瑰精油及药用。而市场上出售的所谓玫瑰花其实都是月季花，或者是月季与蔷薇嫁接出的品种，只不过由于品种不同，这些花跟常见的月季花外型有明显的区别。下面我们就来看看月季和玫瑰的六大区别： 1、花朵的区别 (1)月季的花朵也较玫瑰要大一些，并且颜色多样，一般为单花顶生，也有数朵簇生的，一般为1-3朵，花径约5厘米以上，花柄长; (2)玫瑰花朵较小，一般为粉红色。单生或1-3朵簇生，花柄短，花茎与蔷薇花大致相同。 2、果实的区别 月季与蔷薇的果实为圆球体，玫瑰是扁圆形的果实。　　
3、叶子的区别　　 (1)月季的叶由3-5枚小叶组成羽状复叶，小叶阔卵形或卵状长圆形，先端有尖，边缘有锯齿，长2.5-6厘米，两面都无毛，表面绿色，平展，光滑，无皱缩，有光泽; (2)玫瑰由7-9枚小叶组成羽状复叶，小叶椭圆形或长椭圆形状倒卵形，先端急尖或圆钝，边缘有钝锯齿，叶长2-5厘米，表面绿色，无毛，无光泽，叶脉凹陷而皱缩，背面稍有白粉及柔毛。　 4、花期的区别　　月季也叫月月红、月季花、长春花，月季花季季都会开花，开花不败;玫瑰一般只在夏季开一次花。　　 4、刺的区别 月季花茎上的刺比较大，每节大致有三四个，而玫瑰的花茎上的硬刺密密麻麻。 5、香味的区别 所谓“送人玫瑰，手留余香”，此话说得一点都不假，玫瑰的香味要比月季浓郁得多。种植的玫瑰一般是用来提炼香精等，而我们在街上看到卖的，几乎都是月季。 玫瑰和月季的问题，其实说到底是一个翻译的问题。玫瑰和月季在英文里通俗的叫法都是rose，早期(应该是民国时期)的文学翻译，把中国传统品种的月季还叫月季，而把西方的现代月季翻译成一个本有所属的名字玫瑰。但从园艺的角度上看，现代月季就是现代月季，是与古老月季、传统月季相对的，并非玫瑰，玫瑰无论是在古代还是现代都是一个与月季不同的品种。但是玫瑰这两个字比月季好听，那些文盲记者、花商，还有些文人在宣传、写作的时候都爱用玫瑰而不爱用月季，混乱从此开始。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Miss Chen
八角金盘是优良的观叶植物。八角金盘四季常青，叶片硕大。叶形优美，浓绿光亮，是深受欢迎的室内观叶植物。适应室内弱光环境，为宾馆、饭店、写字楼和家庭美化常用的植物材料。或作室内花坛的衬底。叶片又是插花的良好配材。适宜配植于庭院、门旁、窗边、墙隅及建筑物背阴处，也可点缀在溪流滴水之旁，还可成片群植于草坪边缘及林地。另外还可小盆栽供室内观赏。对二氧化硫抗性较强，适于厂矿区、街坊种植。下面我们来看看八角金盘的养殖方法：
八角金盘的基本信息： 八角金盘，顾名思义指的是其掌状的叶片，裂叶约8片，看似有8个角而名，也叫八金盘、八手、手树、手树、金刚纂等。八角金盘叶丛四季油光青翠，叶片象一只只绿色的手掌。其性耐荫，在园林中常种植于假山边上或大树旁边，还能作为观叶植物用于室内，厅堂及会场陈设。 八角金盘的养殖方法： 1、土壤：八角金盘种植以排水良好而肥沃的微酸性土壤为宜，中性土壤亦能适应。 2、浇水：八角金盘在新叶生长期，浇水要适当多些，保持土壤湿润;以后浇水要掌握间干间湿。气候干燥时，还应向植株及周围喷水增湿。 3、阳光：八角金盘为强阴性树种，可常年放置在室内具有明亮散射阳光的地方培养。 4、温度：八角金盘最适合的生长气温为15-20℃，不可低于5℃，10℃以上能够正常生长，气温也不能太高，气温超过30℃，叶片容易变黄，生长势下降、常罹病害。
5、施肥：八角金盘在生长旺季需要每月施1-2次稀薄液肥或复合花肥。 八角金盘是优良的观叶植物，可小盆栽供室内观赏，而且对空气净化也有一定的作用，八角金盘的养殖方法就介绍到这里，希望对大家有所帮助。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Miss Chen
玻璃翠为人们所喜爱的另一重要原因是它有染指甲的功效。用凤仙花染指甲风俗由来已久。宋代周密所撰《葵辛杂识续集》中载有以凤仙花染指甲之法。将带色的凤仙花花瓣捣烂，加入适量食盐或明矾湿均，蘸取适量涂于指甲上，用布片或植物叶片包好，经一段时间后就染好了。染好的指甲，用凤仙花染指甲色若胭脂，洗涤不去，可经数月。所以凤仙花又名指甲花。下面我们看看玻璃翠的养殖方法：
玻璃翠的基本信息： 玻璃翠，又名玻璃海棠，因其花、叶、茎都呈肉质，酷似玻璃，故得名。它平时枝叶青翠，花色妖艳浓郁，如同盛妆美人。如栽培得当，可四季开花，是一种良好的室内小型盆栽观赏花卉。玻璃翠是秋海棠科秋海棠属多年生宿根花卉。盆栽观赏花卉，亦作花坛用花。温暖地区或温暖季节可布置于庭院或花坛。 玻璃翠的养殖方法： 1、土壤：培养土可选用腐叶土、园土和粗沙以1:1:1的比例混合，并施入少量豆饼为基肥。 2、湿度：玻璃翠喜空气湿润，最适空气相对湿度为40～60%，若空气干燥，否则会使叶片失去翠绿的光泽，甚至发生叶片不舒展，萎缩卷曲，边缘干枯的现象。因此夏季除了适当遮阳免遭强光直射外，每天数次向叶面喷水和向盆花四周地面洒水，可以增加空气湿度，降低温度，保持叶片翠绿。 3、光照：夏季要适当遮阴，避免强光直晒，冬季移入室内，放置窗台阳光充足处养护，在整个生长发育过程中，每7天左右最好转动花盆1次，使植株各部分受光均匀、株型美观。
4、温度：玻璃翠性喜温暖环境，温度以18℃至25℃最好，越冬不能低于10℃，保持在13℃以上才能开花不断。 5、施肥：生长期每隔10天施一次追肥;以腐熟饼肥水为宜，肥液浓度为0.2%;开花后15天施一次。肥水不足时茎叶薄黄而影响开花;肥水过足或过度荫蔽会使植株茎叶徒长，容易倒伏，应及时停止施肥，并摘除枝顶，促使下部分枝。 6、修剪：玻璃翠幼苗经2～3次摘心，促其分枝，使株形更丰满、优美。 玻璃翠是很多人布置家居选用的一种绿色盆栽植物，青翠的枝叶布置在居室里面让整个空间都充满了生机与活力，玻璃翠的养殖方法就介绍到这里希望对大家有所帮助。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Miss Chen
白鹤芋可以盆栽，也可以在花台、庭园的荫蔽地点、石组和水池边缘丛植、列植，起绿化作用。白鹤芋花茎挺拔秀美，盆栽点缀客厅、书房，十分舒泰别致，显得高雅俊美。在南方，配置小庭园、池畔、墙角处，别具一格。另外白鹤芋的花也是极好的花篮和插花的装饰材料。
白鹤芋可以过滤室内废气，对付氨气，丙酮，苯和甲醛都有一定功效。用水根栽培的白鹤芋，可以透过蒸散作用调节室内的温度和湿度，能有效净化空气中的挥发性有机物，如：酒精、丙酮、三氯乙烯、苯、甲苯、一氧化氯、臭氧等。其中尤其是针对臭氧的净化率特别高，摆放在厨房瓦斯旁，可以净化空气，去除做饭时的味道、油烟以及挥发物质。 下面我们来看看白鹤芋的养殖方法： 白鹤芋的基本信息： 白鹤芋别名苞叶芋、白掌、和平芋等，属于天南星科，白鹤芋属，多年生草本，白鹤芋翠绿叶片，洁白佛焰苞，非常清新幽雅，是世界重要的观花。 白鹤芋为多年生草本，具短根茎，叶长椭圆状披针形，两端渐尖，叶脉明显，叶柄长，基部呈鞘状。花葶直立，高出叶丛，佛焰苞直立向上，稍卷，白色，肉穗花序圆柱状，白色。它还是可以过滤室内废气的能手，对付氨气，丙酮，苯和甲醛都有一定功效。20世纪初开始应用于盆栽观赏，到80年代在欧洲已十分流行，视白鹤芋为"清白之花"，具有纯洁平静、祥和安泰之意。
白鹤芋的养殖方法： 1、土壤：白鹤芋的盆栽用土以腐叶土、泥炭土和粗沙的混合土，加少量过磷酸钙为宜。 2、阳光：白鹤芋怕强光暴晒，夏季需遮荫60%～70%，但长期光照不足，则不易开花。 3、温度：白鹤芋的生长适温为22～28℃，3～9月以24～30℃，9月至翌年3月为18～21℃，冬季温度不低于14℃。温度低于10℃，植株生长受阻，叶片易受冻害。 4、浇水：白鹤芋叶片较大，对湿度比较敏感。夏季高温和秋季干燥时，要多喷水，保证空气湿度在50%以上，有利于叶片生长。高温干燥时，叶片容易卷曲，叶片变小、枯萎脱落，花期缩短。 5、施肥：生长旺季每1～2周施一次稀薄的复合肥或腐熟饼肥水，这样既利于植株生长健壮，又利于不断开花。北方冬季温度低，应停止施肥。 6、虫害：常见细菌性叶斑病、褐斑病和炭疽病危害叶片，可用50%多菌灵可湿性粉剂500倍液喷洒。另有根腐病和茎腐病发生，除注意通风和减少湿度外，用75%百菌清可湿性粉剂800倍液防治。有时发生介壳虫和红蜘蛛危害，用50%马拉松乳油1500倍液喷杀防治。 白鹤芋在家庭客厅、书房、庭院等地方都是比较常见的装饰植物，白鹤芋清新洁白，显得别具一格，装点后的家居很别致，白鹤芋的养殖方法就介绍到这里，希望对大家有所帮助。
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Miss Chen
凤尾竹风姿秀雅，是室内良好的观叶植物，很多人会搭配石头摆放在书房、客厅等地方，别有一番滋味，同时适于在庭院中墙隅、屋角、门旁配植，植株较小的凤尾竹可栽植于花台上，也可制作竹类盆景，同时也栽于寺庙庭园中，在南方地区也常作为低矮绿篱的配植材料广泛应用。下面我们来看看凤尾竹养殖方法要技有哪些：
凤尾竹的基本信息： 凤尾竹(拉丁学名：Bambusamultiplex)又名观音竹、米竹、筋头竹、蓬莱竹等，原产中国南部。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境，耐寒性稍差，不耐强光曝晒，怕渍水，宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土，冬季温度不低于0℃。凤尾竹株丛密集，竹干矮小，枝叶秀丽，常用于盆栽观赏，点缀小庭院和居室，也常用于制作盆景或作为低矮绿篱材料。 凤尾竹的养殖方法： 1、土壤：凤尾竹喜酸性、微酸性或中性土壤，家庭盆栽可选用腐叶土、园土、河沙各1/3混合配制的培养土，忌粘重、碱性土壤。 2、阳光：凤尾竹喜光，室内养护时春、夏、秋三季放朝南窗台附近通风处，冬季放阳光充足的地方，便能生长良好。若放室外培养时，春、秋季节可多接受些光照，夏季要注意遮阳，避免强光曝晒，否则枝叶易发黄，影响美观。
3、温度：凤尾竹为常绿丛生灌木。喜温暖湿润和半阴环境。耐寒性稍差，不耐强光曝晒，怕渍水，宜肥沃、疏松和排水良好的壤土.冬季温度不低于0度。 4、浇水：生长期间浇水要适量，保持盆土湿润即可。气候干燥和炎夏季节要经常用清水喷洗叶片，以利保持叶片碧绿。 5、施肥：凤尾竹在生长期间，每隔20天左右需施1次液肥。凤尾竹肥料以有机肥为主，液肥可用腐熟稀薄的豆饼水，或复合液肥。冬季应停止施肥。 6、修剪：凤尾竹在生长过程中老竿逐渐枯萎，应及时剪去，以保持优美的姿态。 凤尾竹在家居布置中幽雅别致，显得家居很有韵味，一般适合中式或田园风格的家居，如果家里是这些风格的不妨考虑一下。
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Spaghetti squash, one of the common and popular winter squash varieties, grows into a large oval squash with a yellow or orange skin. Most spaghetti squash varieties mature in three to four months. If you lack garden space, grow a vine variety of spaghetti squash on a trellis to conserve soil area. Because the spaghetti squash become quite large as they mature, rig a support system for the growing squash.
Step 1 Prepare a sunny growing location after the final spring frost. Cultivate the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Add 4 inches of compost to the top of the soil and work the compost and the soil completely to mix them. Rake the soil surface smooth. Step 2 Insert the wood or metal trellis system into the soil. Pound the bottom of the trellis into the soil with a hammer to drive it at least 8 inches into the ground. Step 3 Plant the spaghetti squash seeds along both sides of the trellis, positioning the seeds four to six inches from the trellis. Sow two seeds together about 1 inch deep, spacing the seeds about 12 inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with soil. Step 4 Water the seeds generously immediately after planting and keep the soil moist while the seeds germinate – about one to two weeks. Provide water for the growing spaghetti squash plants if less than 1 inch of rain falls in a one-week period.
Step 5 Thin the seedlings when they reach a height of 4 inches. Remove the weakest seedlings to leave one plant growing every 12 inches along the trellis. Step 6 Apply the fertilizer to the seedlings by sprinkling 1/4 lb. of granular fertilizer for every 10 feet of seedlings. Apply the fertilizer approximately three weeks after you see the first blossoms and work the fertilizer into the soil well with a hand rake. Step 7 Pull weeds as they appear, to keep the soil area free of competing plants. Step 8 Tie the vines to the trellis with the stretchy plant ties to train the vines. Support the main vines by tying them loosely to the trellis. Step 9 Cut a 2-foot length of cheesecloth for each spaghetti squash that begins to grow on the plants. Tie the cheesecloth so it acts as a sling for the squash and tie the ends of the cheesecloth to the trellis. Step 10 Harvest spaghetti squash before the first autumn frost, when the skins turn yellow. The skin should feel firm to the touch. Use a sharp knife to cut the squash from the vines, leaving about 3 inches of vine protruding from the squashes.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Okra seeds need optimal conditions to germinate. The seed coat is thick and hard, inhibiting germination unless the seeds are treated to enhance germination. Some seeds are scarified with acid by the seed producer to increase germination rates. Check the package expiration date, old seeds are less likely to germinate. Under ideal conditions, your okra should germinate within seven days.
Conditions that Encourage Sprouting Okra grows best in well-drained soils with a pH between 6.5 to 7.5. It is a hot-weather crop that prefers full sun. Sow the seeds directly into the garden or plant them in peat pots for later transplanting. Plant the seeds 3/4 to 1 inch deep in hills 12 to 24 inches apart. Plant two seeds per hole and thin the plants, leaving the strongest plant when they reach approximately 3 inches tall. Soak the Seeds For Better Germination Iowa State University Extension recommends soaking the seeds overnight before planting to soften the seed coat and increase the germination rate. Soaking for four to six hours will do the job. Either cover the seeds in water or wrap them in damp paper towels. Freeze the Seeds for Better Germination Another way to increase the chances of germination is to freeze the seeds before planting, according to the Clemson University Extension. Freezing breaks the seed coat and increases potential germination. Place the seeds in the freezer overnight before planting in warm soil. Temperatures for Germination Okra sprouts best in warm soil. Plant it in the spring or early summer when the soil temperature has reached at least 70 degrees F and the daytime temperatures are reaching 75 to 90 degrees. Okra seeds do not sprout in soil temperatures below 65 degrees.
Days to Maturity Viable okra seeds germinate within seven days and then require approximately 48 to 75 days to maturity, depending on the variety. The plants and pods grow very fast and require picking every day or two to prevent the pods from becoming large and fibrous.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Don't let the name fool you. There's nothing sour or citrusy about the flavor of lemon cucumbers. The name comes from the beautiful yellow skin on these uniquely shaped heirloom cucumbers. These round cucumbers have a mild, slightly sweet flavor, and they're much smaller than traditional cucumbers, so they're ideal for snacking. Growing lemon cucumbers is very similar to traditional cucumbers. Knowing when to pick them helps you enjoy the peak of their flavor and ripeness.
Time to Maturity Lemon cucumbers grow fairly quickly. They mature in roughly 60 to 75 days from seed. The seeds take roughly five to 10 days to germinate. More cucumbers grow as you harvest them, so it's best to start picking them as soon as they mature. Lemon cucumbers have a range of time when they taste good, so you don't have to watch the calendar closely and pick it only at a certain time. Signs of Maturity Timing isn't the only factor when it comes to deciding when to harvest lemon cucumbers. Look for signs of maturity in the cucumbers themselves before deciding to harvest. The longer you wait to pick the cucumbers, the thicker the skin becomes and the larger the seeds grow. An overly ripe harvest can also taste bitter. Ripe lemon cucumbers measure between 2 and 3 inches long. Estimate a 2-inch cucumber as roughly the size of an egg. The skin and seeds are edible at that size, although the cucumbers aren't considered fully ripe until they're closer to 3 inches, or roughly the size of a tennis ball. Anything larger is likely too ripe. The skin color is another clue that it's time to harvest. As they ripen, the skin turns from green to light yellow to dark yellow. Pick them when they're just starting to turn yellow. If the ends are yellow, it's a sign they're overripe. Dark yellow skin also means you've waited a little too long to harvest. The cucumbers are still edible, but you may not like the thicker skin and more bitter flavor.
Tips for Harvesting Lemon Cucumbers Harvesting the ripe cucumbers is easy. Snip the stem just above the fruit using a clean knife or scissors. It's a good idea to check the plants each day, as the cucumbers grow quickly. If you wait more than a day to check, you may discover several of them are overly ripe. Lemon cucumbers don't last long when harvested, so pick only what you can eat soon. At room temperature, they usually last a day or two until shriveling starts. They tend to last longer at room temperature than they do in the refrigerator, so it's better to leave them on the counter than to store them in the fridge. Pickling the lemon cucumbers is a way to make them last longer.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Eggplants are a warm-weather crop that cannot be planted in the garden until your region's last frost date has passed in spring. Eggplants require 100 to 120 days to reach maturity from seed, but choosing a faster-maturing variety and establishing optimal growing conditions can bring fresh, ripe eggplants more quickly from your garden to your table. Growing From Seed Because eggplants require a relatively long time to mature and will not thrive in cool weather, if you plan to grow your eggplants from seed, you will need to begin them indoors, about eight to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your region. Seeds need warm soil to germinate and for the seedlings to grow quickly. The ideal soil temperature for germination is between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, so be sure to keep your seedlings in a warm location in your home or use a heating mat to warm the soil. Growing From Transplants Move your transplants into the garden only after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm. Eggplants grow optimally during daytime temperatures of 70 to 85 degrees F and can be severely damaged by even a light frost. Cool temperatures can slow growth significantly, so for the best and fastest harvest, keep your transplants indoors until the weather has warmed. If your plants begin to outgrow their containers, it is preferable to repot them in larger containers rather than move them outside too soon. If purchasing transplants from a garden center, do not purchase your plants until the final frost date has passed. Choose plants with dense, compact growth. Avoid the temptation of speeding up production by purchasing plants that already have blossoms: Blossoms on seedlings may actually slow growth after transplanting and lead to fewer eggplants at harvest.
Varieties and Time to Maturity Different cultivars of eggplant can show considerable variation in the time it takes them to reach maturity, and if you want an early harvest, use care in selecting a variety. Time until harvest is usually measured from when the eggplant is transplanted into the garden, until the first fruits become ripe. Some seed packets will list the time until harvest by calculating when the seed was planted. Matures in 50 to 55 days: Easter Egg, Millionaire Matures in 60 to 64 days: Calliope, Dusky, Epic, Tango Matures in 65 to 72 days: Black Bell, Black Magic, Casper, Fairy Tale, Ichiban, Little Fingers, Nadia, Orient Charm, Slim Jim, Snowy Matures in 73 to 80 days: Black Beauty, Burpee Hybrid, Classic, Ghostbuster, Rosa Bianca, Santana Optimal Growing Conditions Given warm soil to grow in, eggplants are relatively adaptable to a range of garden conditions, but optimal conditions will improve plant growth and yields. Sunlight: Eggplants require full sun. Soil: Eggplants grow best in a well-drained soil that is relatively high in organic matter. Water: Once established, eggplants can tolerate dry conditions. Eggplants require at least 1 inch of water per week, especially once fruits begin to grow. Absent adequate rainfall, provide a single watering each week, moistening the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Fertilizer: At planting time, apply 1 1/4 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Broadcast the fertilizer and work it into the surface of the soil prior to planting your eggplants. When the first fruits are the size of a quarter, use 3 ounces of calcium nitrate fertilizer per 10 feet of row to sidedress your plants, applying fertilizer to the soil surface under the leaves. Sidedress eggplants again two weeks later, using the same amount of calcium nitrate. Growing Eggplants in Cooler Climates If you live in a cooler region with a shorter growing season, growing eggplants is more challenging. Covering the soil around your plants with black plastic mulch helps to raise the soil temperature and promotes rapid growth. If a late frost strikes, cover your eggplants with hot caps or row covers to prevent damage. Hot caps are individual plant coverings made of paper or plastic that trap the warmth from the sun and speed up growth in cold climates. Row covers are made of light fabric and can raise the daytime temperature underneath the cover by as much as 10 degrees F, insulate the plants at night and protect plants from frost and wind. Covers are spread across an entire row of plants; secure them in the ground at the sides for maximum effectiveness.
As fall approaches, begin pinching off new blossoms two to four weeks before the first expected frost date. This will speed up the ripening of existing fruit so that you can enjoy one final harvest before the frost.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Miss Chen
Harvesting Buttercrunch lettuce (Lactuca sativa 'Buttercrunch') -- a variety of Bibb lettuce -- is as simple as cutting away select leaves or even the entire head. It's a simple process, but avoid harvesting too late or you may get bitter or tough leaves.
When to Harvest Buttercrunch The entire head of Buttercrunch lettuce will be mature at between 55 and 70 days after planting seeds, but you can typically start harvesting leaves when the plant is just 21 days old. While it's often grown as an annual, lettuce is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 9 and prefers cooler weather. Gardeners typically plant seeds both in the early spring as well as the fall, offering a harvest through much of the growing season. Harvesting Leaves When your Buttercrunch plant has formed a few leaves, you can start harvesting the baby leaves, washing them and adding them to salads or sandwiches. Cut away a few of the outer leaves of the plant and leave the inner leaves -- which are typically smaller -- to continue to grow. Do this right before you want to eat the baby leaves, as loose-leaf lettuces, including Buttercrunch, can wilt quickly. Past Its Prime As you continue to harvest and eat the outer leaves of your Buttercrunch lettuce, you'll probably notice if the leaves begin to taste bitter or if they begin to get tough. At that point, it's a few days past the ideal harvesting time for leaves or the entire head. Likewise, if your Buttercrunch lettuce is bolting -- sending up a long shoot from the center -- you've waited too long to harvest the entire head. Bibb varieties tend to get bitter in high temperatures. You can still harvest it and eat it, but the lettuce may not taste as tender and delicious as earlier harvests.
Harvesting Mature Heads When nearing maturity, Buttercrunch lettuce will form a loose "rosette" or "head," and the leaves may turn slightly reddish. Plan to harvest the entire head at between 55 and 70 days after planting -- or when the leaves are full and still tender. Harvest the entire mature head by cutting the plant at its base. Leave the base in the ground, however, since it may develop more leaves that you can continue to eat.
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