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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Miss Chen
Enjoy nutrient-dense, warm season banana peppers on garden salads or fry them up and make crispy side dishes. These peppers have a mild, non-spicy, sweet taste, making them a favored addition to all sorts of recipes. It's easy to grow banana peppers in your own garden with a few simple steps and soil preparation techniques.
Nutrition Facts Banana peppers are nutritious. These sweet peppers contain calcium, fiber, potassium, folate, vitamins A and C and protein. Vitamin C helps the body make collagen, and it aids in the repair and growth of all tissues within the body, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Banana peppers have no fat and a low calorie content, making this food a smart choice for dieters. Characteristics Banana peppers are light green, orange or yellow in color and have an oblong shape with pointed tips. The raw peppers have a smooth texture and thick skin with seeds and lobes on the inside. The skin feels slightly supple because of water inside, but the peppers can quickly dry out when cooked. Banana peppers are 4 or more inches long and widest at the top portion of the pepper, near the stem. Some of these peppers have a straight appearance while others have a slight curve on the end. Origin While the banana pepper has a sweet taste, its chili pepper cousins have a much spicier flavor and very different characteristics. All of these peppers originated in the Americas, but banana peppers and other peppers in the chili pepper family have spread across the entire world.
Growing Banana Peppers Prepare the soil before planting banana peppers. These peppers thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sunshine. Till the ground 10 or more inches deep with a garden tiller and add 4 or more inches of compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and space pepper seeds and transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows or 14 inches apart in raised beds. Plant transplants 3 inches deep to fully cover the roots. Banana peppers take up to 70 days to fully mature in the ground.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Miss Chen
Cucumbers add fresh, cool flavors to tossed green salads and stand on their own as a cold side dish. However, when cucumbers produce a particularly high-yielding harvest, gardeners seek solutions on what to do with excess cucumbers. Many possibilities exist with this versatile vegetable.
Culinary Uses Although some cucumber types are specifically bred for pickling, you can use any variety to make sweet or dill pickles. If you use them within a month, there will be no need to go through the canning process; you can use the same canning pickling brine, and keep them in a sealed container in the refrigerator. Alternately, toss peeled cucumbers into the blender with savory smoothie ingredients, or add cucumber juice to citrus-based cocktails for a refreshing change. Instead of traditional gazpacho, base the cold soup on cucumbers, and use freshly chopped tomatoes and corn kernels for garnish. Highlight the flavors of fish tacos or traditional enchiladas with a cucumber salsa spiced with jalapenos, corn and tomatoes. Add sliced cucumbers to a conventional stir-fry for a creamy, crunchy difference. Beauty and Health Applications To get rid of puffy eyes or temporarily lessen the appearance of wrinkles or cellulite, place raw cucumber slices on the areas, and watch the phytochemicals firm the top layer of skin. In addition, freshen your breath without mints by placing a cucumber slice against the top of your mouth to kill odor-causing bacteria. Instead of drinking a sugary drink for a late-afternoon energy boost, eat a cucumber, and enjoy the natural energizing effects of the carbohydrates and B vitamins in the vegetable.
Home and Garden Care Remove the fog from bathroom mirrors with a cucumber slice, and fill the room with a fresh fragrance. Remove ink and crayon stains from walls with cucumber peelings. In addition, make stainless steel sinks and faucets shine by rubbing a cucumber slice over them. Cure squeaky hinges with a swipe of a piece of cucumber. Placing pieces of cucumber in aluminum pans in garden beds deters grubs and slugs as the vegetable emits a repellent odor only detectable by the pests when it interacts with the metal. Homeopathic Treatments To prevent a hangover, eat some cucumber slices before retiring. The sugar, B vitamins and electrolytes may replace the nutrients lost during drinking and help you feel fine the next morning. Or, boil cucumbers to create an aromatic steam that helps to relieve stress and helps people relax.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Miss Chen
Asparagus is a vegetable commonly found year-round in the grocery store, thanks to modern cultivation techniques. Not only is it a highly nutritious vegetable full of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, it's also low in fat and calories and is a source of dietary fiber. Treat your family to its delicious, delicate taste by selecting only the freshest and best quality spears and tips and avoiding those that are spoiled.
Check the asparagus spears to ensure they are firm and straight. Look where the bunch has been secured. If there are indentations where the rubber band or string was tied, avoid the asparagus as the bunch is starting to lose its freshness.
Check the tips, which should be tightly closed and either dark green or purple. Discard any that are light in color, beginning to turn yellow or have begun to turn to seed.
Look for wetness and slime, which is a sign the asparagus is past its prime. Fresh asparagus tips are firm and dry.
Smell the asparagus to see if it has a bad odor. Fresh spears have no smell. If you detect a bad odor, it is best to avoid the bunch.
Avoid thick, ridged spears, which tend to be old and often have less flavor than thinner, fresher spears.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Miss Chen
Watermelons are the dessert crop of the vegetable garden, and the sweet, refreshing fruit matures in the heat of summer, just when we need it most. A few conditions and diseases cause black spots and blotches that make the fruit inedible. Blossom end rot, which is caused by soil conditions, is easily corrected so that the gardener only loses the first ripening fruit, while bacterial and fungal diseases can destroy the entire crop.
Black Rot Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high. Preventing Black Rot Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen. Bacterial Fruit Blotch Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Miss Chen
The small onions used for pickling or stews are called pearl onions (Allium ampeloprasum). Most reach no larger than an inch in diameter. They have thin skins and a mild, sweet flavor. These small onions require much the same care as standard onion bulbs, but they mature earlier and take up less space in the garden bed.
Step 1 Fill a seed starting flat with moistened potting mix. Sow the pearl onion seeds on the soil surface, spacing the seeds 1 inch apart in all directions. Cover the seeds with 1/4 inch of soil. Step 2 Cover the flat with a clear plastic bag. Set the flat in a 70 to 75 degree Fahrenheit location to germinate. Most onions sprout within 2 weeks of sowing. Step 3 Remove the plastic and relocate the flat to an area that receives bright sunlight. Water the potting soil when the surface begins to dry. Step 4 Transplant the pearl onions to a well-drained, full sun garden bed once the soil thins enough to work in late spring. In areas that don't experience frozen weather or extreme freezes, transplant outdoors in late January or early February.
Step 5 Spread 1 cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer over every 50 square feet of garden bed 3 days before transplanting. Till the fertilizer into the top 6 inches of soil. Step 6 Scoop the pearl onion seedlings from the flat with a spoon, scooping out the root and the soil attached to the roots. Plant the seedling in the garden bed at the same depth it was at in the flat. Space pearl onions 1 1/2 inches apart in rows spaced 2 inches apart. Step 7 Supply the onion plants with approximately 1 inch of water a week from irrigation or rain. Pearl onions require soil that remains evenly moist without drying or becoming soggy. Step 8 Fertilize the pearl onions with 1/2 cup of 21-0-0 fertilizer per 50 square feet 4 weeks after transplanting. Sprinkle the fertilizer around the plants but not directly on top of them. Water the bed after application. Step 9 Harvest the onions after the foliage yellows and begins to fall over in midsummer. Loosen the soil between the onions rows then lift the pearl onions from the soil. Avoid digging directly in the row, as that may damage the pearl onion bulbs.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Miss Chen
Gardeners have been cultivating rhubarb for thousands of years. Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum, grows best in cool weather, but cool weather isn't the same as freezing weather. Cold, below freezing temperatures may damage rhubarb and make it unfit to eat. It may be necessary to protect rhubarb plants if temperatures dip too low.
Growing Temperatures Rhubarb plants must have winter temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm temperatures of 75 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal while the plant is producing leafy, new growth. Even when cold, freezing temperatures kill the leaves of the plant, hardy rhubarb roots will survive and create new leaves in the spring. With enough protection and care, rhubarb may be grown up to U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone 3, where temperatures fall as low as minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. New rhubarb plants are created from seed, crowns or division. Seeds may be planted and started indoors up to six weeks before the last spring frost date and transplanted outside after the soil has warmed. Freezing Temperatures Rhubarb is a cool-season vegetable and hardy to cold temperatures. Light and moderate freezing temperatures in the low thirties and upper twenties are not likely to cause much damage to rhubarb, but once temperatures dip below 24 degrees Fahrenheit, serious problems could result. Rhubarb stalks that have been damaged by severe frost may be inedible, but new stalks that emerge after the frost will be perfectly safe to eat.
Freeze Protection An unexpected late or early freeze may ruin rhubarb, but gardeners can protect their plants from sudden temperature changes. Anything that will provide the plants with insulation may be used to protect rhubarb. Plastic, straw, even sheets and blankets may be placed directly over plants to trap heat and guard against freezing temperatures. A large bucket or jug, turned upside-down and placed over the plants, may even be used as a makeshift greenhouse against cold weather. Remove the protection after temperatures rise. Freezing Damage Rhubarb leaves are filled with oxalic acid that makes them unfit for consumption. In freezing temperatures that create severe frost, that acid will move from the leaves down into the stalk. Within two or three days, frost-damaged stalks will turn black and limp. When ingested, rhubarb stalks containing oxalic acid will create food poisoning. Harvest and discard any stalks and leaves that have been frost-damaged.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Miss Chen
Rhubarb stalks contain oxalic acid, which is toxic when eaten in large amounts. Most animals avoid rhubarb, but hungry animals will eat almost anything. Use a process of elimination to identify the animal eating your rhubarb and then take action to protect young, tender stalks.
Insect Pests Rhubarb doesn't have a lot of insect pests, but the two most common ones are rhubarb curculio, or rusty snout beetle, and slugs. Black spots on the stems of the plants indicate rhubarb curcolio; jagged holes indicate slug or snail activity. Control the beetles with rotenone or pick them off by hand. Set out slug traps if slugs are destroying the rhubarb. Furry Friends Deer are the most likely grazers and will eat rhubarb down to the ground. They generally only bother the rhubarb in the early spring, when other food sources are scarce. Raccoons may also occasionally eat rhubarb. Cows and sheep will graze on wild rhubarb in fields, but in a home landscape, this shouldn't be a problem.
Control The simplest way to keep marauding deer and raccoons out of the rhubarb is to build a wooden frame that fits over the rhubarb plant. Cover the frame with 1/2 inch chicken wire. Secure the frame at the base with landscaping pins so the deer can't knock it over. Other options include commercial deer repellents or scare tactics, like motion-sensing lights. A protective family dog can also deter pests. Toxicity Symptoms of rhubarb poisoning in grazing animals include diarrhea, depression, trembling, and drinking and urinating more frequently. Animals are rarely poisoned by consuming small amounts of leaves, but in large amounts, rhubarb leaves can cause kidney failure and even death. Ensure that young children and household pets don't consume the leaves.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月19日
Miss Chen
Description: This annual or biennial wildflower develops ascending to sprawling stems about 1½–3' long. The stems are light green to reddish green and pubescent with short spreading hairs. Either opposite or alternate leaves occur at intervals along the stems; the leaf blades are up to 3" long and 3" across and deeply cleft into 3-5 palmate lobes. The leaf margins are sparingly dentate or further divided into small secondary lobes. The upper leaf surfaces are medium green and hairless (or sparingly so), while the their lower surfaces are pale green and pubescent. The petioles are light green and pubescent. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of small linear stipules. From the axils of the middle to upper leaves, clusters of 2 or more flowers develop on slender pubescent stalks; these stalks are about ¾–1½" long at maturity. Each flower is about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 5 light pink petals, 5 green sepals, 10 stamens, and a pistil. Fine pink lines radiate from the throat of each flower. The petals are oblong in shape and slightly notched at their tips. The sepals are lanceolate to ovate and pubescent; each sepal has an awn-like tip about 1.5 mm. long. The blooming period occurs during the summer and lasts about 2 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is replaced by a narrow columnar fruit about ½–¾" long that tapers to a short beak. At maturity, the fruit splits open into 5 slender sections from the bottom, remaining connected together at the apex. By this process, the seeds are mechanically ejected from the mother plant. Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry-mesic conditions, and cool to warm summer temperatures. Different kinds of soil are tolerated, including those that are sandy or rocky. Range & Habitat: Northern Cranesbill is restricted to NE Illinois, where it is rare and native to the area (see Distribution Map). This species is state-listed as 'endangered.' Illinois lies at the southern range-limit of this boreal wildflower. Habitats include woodland openings, sandy Black Oak woodlands, typical and sandy savannas, and rocky outcrops. This wildflower becomes more abundant after a wildfire; there is some evidence that its seeds germinate in response to heat and/or light.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated by small flies (particularly Syrphid flies) and small bees (particularly Halictid bees). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards to such visitors. One insect that sucks on the juices of Geranium spp. is Macrosiphum geranii (Geranium Aphid). The seeds of some Geranium spp. are eaten by such birds as the Mourning Dove and Bobwhite Quail to a limited extent. Photographic Location: A nature preserve in Cook County, Illinois. The photographs were taken by Lisa Culp (Copyright © 2009). Comments: This is one of several annual or biennial Geraniums (Geranium spp.) in Illinois. The majority of these species have been introduced from Eurasia, although some of them are native. All of these species have relatively small flowers, palmately cleft simple leaves (see exception below), and a sprawling to ascending habit. As a result, they can be difficult to distinguish from each other. Northern Cranesbill can be identified through the following combination of characteristics: 1) It produces small flowers (about 1/3" across) in clusters of 2 or more, 2) the stems and stalks of the flowers are pubescent with short spreading hairs, 3) the pedicels of the flowers/fruits are longer than the sepals, and 4) the sepals have awn-like tips. One aberrant species in this group, Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum), differs from the others by its leaves, which are palmately divided into leaflets with petioles.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月19日
Miss Chen
Description: This wildflower is an annual or biennial about ½–2' tall. Small plants are unbranched or sparingly branched, while large plants form frequent lateral stems in the upper leaf axils. The stems are light green to reddish purple, 4-angular, and slightly winged; the central stem is erect, while the lateral stems curve upward. Pairs of opposite leaves occur along each stem, each pair rotating about 90° from the pair of leaves immediately below. The leaves are up to 2½" long and about half as much across, becoming slightly smaller as they ascend the stems. The leaves are ovate-cordate to ovate, sessile or slightly clasping at their bases, and smooth along their margins. Their upper surfaces are yellowish green, green, or tinted slightly purple; each leaf has 3-5 parallel veins. Both the stems and leaves are hairless. The central stem and upper lateral stems (if present) terminate in clusters of 3-7 flowers on short pedicels. Frequently, there are additional clusters of 1-5 flowers from the axils of the upper leaves. All of these flowers are held stiffly erect. Each flower is about ¾" long and ¼" across; it has a long tubular corolla and a short green calyx with 5 slender teeth. The apex of each corolla has 5 triangular lobes that fold together to form a point; the corolla is closed or nearly so. There are no interconnecting fringes to join these lobes. The corollas are blue-violet, purple, or nearly white; they have fine purple veins along their sides. Inside each corolla, there are five stamens and a pistil. The erect lobes of the calyx are narrowly oblong-lanceolate in shape. Underneath the clustered flowers, the leaves are reduced to leafy bracts. The blooming period occur from late summer to mid-fall and lasts about 1-2 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that dividesDistribution Map into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds. These seeds are distributed by wind and water. The root system consists of a taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself; it does not spread vegetatively. Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to dry conditions, and a somewhat barren soil containing clay or rocky material. Competition from taller plants should be restricted. The size of individual plants and the abundance of their flowers can vary considerably depending on the availability of moisture and nutrients. Range & Habitat: The native Stiff Gentian is occasional in the northern half of Illinois, while in the southern half of the state it is rare or absent. Populations of this species may be declining. Habitats include hill prairies, upland savannas, thinly wooded slopes, rocky meadows, banks of streams in wooded areas, calcareous seeps, and edges of cliffs. This species is usually found in high quality natural habitats, often where limestone is close to the ground surface. Faunal Associations: So far, information about floral-faunal relationships for this species has not been encountered. The long tubular shape of the closed corollas suggests that long-tongued bees cross-pollinate the flowers. Photographic Location: The edge of a partially shaded cliff at the Pine Hills Nature Preserve in west-central Indiana. Comments: Like several other gentian species, the flowers of Stiff Gentian provide attractive blue-violet color during the fall; this is one of the last species to remain in bloom. Stiff Gentian in Illinois consists of var. occidentalis; the typical variety is found east of Ohio. Stiff Gentian is easily distinguished by its peculiar flowers, which are shorter (1" long or less) and more narrow (¼" across) than the flowers of other gentians with closed corollas. Sometimes, Stiff Gentian is still referred to as Gentiana quinquefolia, but this genus has been reserved for the perennial gentians, of which there are several species still extant in Illinois.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月19日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial plant is 1-2' tall, with a stout smooth stem that is unbranched. The yellowish or olive green leaves are opposite and strongly clasp the central stem. However, the three leaves beneath the uppermost flowers are whorled. These leaves are broadly lanceolate, ovate, or cordate, and extend up to 3" long and 2" across. There is a prominent central vein, and two side veins that parallel the smooth margins. In the upper half of the plant, 2-7 flowers emerge from the axils of the leaves, with a greater number of flowers at the apex. The tube-shaped flowers are individually about 1½" long and ¾" across, and have 5 petals with small erect tips. They are white, greenish white, or yellowish white, depending on the local ecotype. The blooming period is late summer, and lasts about 1 or 1½ months. There is no noticeable fragrance to the flowers. The seed capsules split into 2 sections, releasing numerous small seeds that can be dispersed by wind or water. The root system consists of a long stout taproot. Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, and moist to average soil conditions. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, clay, gravel, or sand. Starting plants from seed can be tricky, while transplants are much easier to manage. A yellowish appearance of the leaves is a common reaction to strong sunlight or dry weather, and does not necessarily signify disease or poor health. Range & Habitat: The native Cream Gentian is a rare plant that occurs in scattered counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map). It can be found in mesic black soil prairies, where it will occasionally form sizeable colonies. Other habitats include the edges of upland forests, sandy oak savannas, limestone glades, and rocky bluffs. Populations of this plant may have occurred in other habitats, such as sand or gravel prairies, but were destroyed before they could be identified. Faunal Associations: Bumblebees are the primary pollinators of the flowers, where they seek nectar. Some beetles, such as Epicauta pensylvanica (Black Blister Beetle), have been known to knaw on the flowers. White-tailed Deer occasionally chomp off the tops of Cream Gentian plants, but it is not preferred as a food source because of the bitter leaves (personal observation). The relationship of Cream Gentian to other mammalian herbivores is not known at the present time.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: This gentian can be easily distinguished from the others by the absence of blue in the flower. The flowers are not as closed as the Bottle Gentians (e.g., Gentiana andrewsii), but less open than the Prairie Gentian (Gentiana puberulenta). Cream Gentian also blooms about 3 weeks earlier than other gentians. Because it blends into the background of a prairie quite well, this plant can be easy to overlook, even when it is in flower. Like many other gentians, Cream Gentian has an otherworldly beauty that is oddly attractive. Another scientific name for this plant is Gentiana flavida.
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