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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Cool-season bulb plants, tulips (Tulipa spp.) were first discovered in eastern Turkey. Although tulips grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they don't bloom reliably in mild-winter climates unless you dig them up and refrigerate them. In regions where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need to chill the bulbs if you want to see flowers each year.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb. Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow Tulips to Chill If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant. Prepare the Bed Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area. Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Wisconsin is gifted with Great Lakes on two sides, North America's longest river on another and the contrast of land left by glaciers, flat "driftless" areas and Uplands where rivers dig mini-canyons begun in prehistory. For tulips (Tulipa ssp.), its cold, snowy winter chills can make for spectacular springs. For spring bloom, plant tulips in Wisconsin six to eight weeks before the first frosts of autumn.
Wisconsin's Continental Climate Wisconsin gardeners live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 5b. Lowest winter temperatures range from 35 below zero Fahrenheit in the northwest to 15 below along the shores of Lake Michigan. Summer rainfall varies, west to east, from 34 to 28 inches, contributing to a cool, wet continental climate. Southern Wisconsin's first frost comes about two weeks later than it does in the northwest interior of the state, but the southern part of the state also often enjoys several weeks of mild weather before winter sets in. Since fall planting benefits root development rather than top growth, ground frost might end tulip planting time in early September in the north. In the longer autumn near Lake Michigan in the south, bulbs might be safely planted until late October. Early Preparation Planting spring bulbs, say the garden calendars, is the last pleasant task of the gardener before retiring for the winter, but Wisconsin's raw and rainy autumns preclude procrastination. Take a couple of sunny days in September to find the sunniest place in the garden for your tulips. Wait to plant, though, because planting while soil is still warm encourages tender top growth.
Much of Wisconsin's soil is well-drained loam, but some contains significant amounts of clay. These soils need amendment down to 12 inches with leaf mold or compost, mixed one-to-one with soil. Tulips are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, but they are natives of arid continental climates, so they require well-drained soils to avoid bulb rot and diseases bred in wet soils. Follow Through Wait until ground temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, typically in late September to mid-October, to plant bulbs. Tulip leaves need plenty of space to gather nutrients for next year's bloom, so plant bulbs 8 inches apart. Set bulbs 8 inches deep with at least 4 inches of soil above bulbs to protect them from dehydration as the ground freezes. The Chicago Botanic Garden recommends sprinkling 5-10-5 granular fertilizer on the surface after backfilling with soil. For bulbs you hope to "perennialize," the University of Wisconsin Extension recommends 10-10-10 fertilizer, scattered after planting and again each fall. Water bulbs deeply after planting and weekly until the first hard freeze only if weather is dry. Other Dairyland Considerations Many hybrid tulips are not fully perennial. Dig non-bloomers and check the bottom of the bulb, called the basal plate, for baby "bulblets." Plant these in a sunny patch and when they mature in two to four years, you might have more blooms just like the parent. For dependably perennial bulbs, buy species tulips -- Kaufman (Tulipa kaufmanniana) or Greigi (Tulipa greigi) tulips -- or heirloom tulips, such as the big old Darwin hybrids. And a warning: Considering the state's population of squirrels, mice and voles, never use fragrant bone meal to feed tulips, plant them in protective open-ended cans or chicken wire fences or interplant them with distasteful daffodils.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Tulips (Tulipa spp.) are springtime plants that produce vibrantly colored blossoms, sometimes even multicolored ones. The appearance of tulips hails the arrival of warmer weather for many people. Tulips are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, and, with careful planning, you can enjoy them from early spring through early summer. They are indoor or outdoor plants and a simple way to ensure bright color in an otherwise drab landscape after winter finishes.
Large and Small Groups How you group tulip bulbs depends on space restrictions and when they blossom. For springtime blooms, plant your tulips in groups of at least 12 per color. The early spring landscape is often barren, and so smaller groupings can make a garden look scrawny rather than lively. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from pink, white and red to purple, orange and multicolored. Plant only tulips of a single flower color in small spaces. Although making use of tulips' wide color variety is tempting, too many colors in a small space have less visual impact than fewer colors do. Plant groups of single-colored tulips in corners and hidden areas to highlight those parts of the yard. With Other Plants and Walkways Plant tulips in single-color bunches -- with each bunch containing a minimum of six tulips -- to highlight borders and walkways. Even though the dark green of evergreens is a contrasting backdrop for the bright color of tulips, especially in early spring, do not plant tulips under evergreen trees because their shade results in poor growth. Tulips require full- or partial-sun exposure to thrive. Flowerbeds at the base of deciduous trees, however, are optimal tulip-growing environments because those trees' branches are not yet filled with shade-producing foliage in spring.
Potted Plants Indoors Because tulips can grow successfully indoors in containers, you can enjoy their blossoms year-round. Tulips look best in a wide, shallow pot, roughly 4 to 6 inches deep; the pot must be deep enough to allow a minimum of 2 inches below the bottom of the bulbs for root development. It is all right to have the top of the bulbs in line with the container's rim. Use a blend of potting mix and compost for the growing medium. Tulips do best in a clay pot, which drys faster than a plastic pot, reducing the risk of excess moisture. Tulip varieties that do best indoors are short ones. Guidelines for Indoor Tulips When planting tulip bulbs for indoor use, group the bulbs closely together so they have more visual appeal when they blossom. Fit as many bulbs into one pot as possible without having them touch. Tulip bulbs growing indoors do not naturally undergo a wintertime chill, as they would outdoors, and the change in temperature from cold to warm is what triggers tulips to blooms. Most tulip bulbs require a minimum of 14 to 20 weeks of cold temperatures before they blossom two to three weeks later. Force tulips to grow and flower indoors by chilling their container -- filled with soil and bulbs -- in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit environment. If you are in an area where temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, then keep the bulbs on a porch, and protect them with a layer of straw. In an area that gets colder weather, store them in a consistently cold environment, such as a cold cellar. Depending on when they are planted, indoor tulips can take eight to 16 weeks to bloom.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Tulips grow and bloom in late winter and early spring, bringing bright color to otherwise sleepy gardens. These bulb plants are equally successful in pots, both in the house and in the garden. Potted tulips require the same planting times, placement and care as outdoor tulips if they're to bloom in spring, so buy some tulips bulbs in fall and get started.
Step 1 Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water. Step 2 Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil. Step 3 Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4 Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long. Step 5 Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Tulips are traditionally a spring flower, but they can be grown year-round in a glass container. The bulb sits above water and the roots sprout down into the water, encouraging the bulb to grow. This is normally done with hyacinths and hyacinth glasses are available for this specific use. However, this method works for most bulbs, including tulips. The tulip will continue to grow above the water, creating a single flower that works as a centerpiece and adds color to a room throughout the year.
Step 1 Add smooth, decorative stones to a glass jar until they are about 2 inches high. Step 2 Nestle the bulb into the stones so that it sits upright with the pointy part up.
Step 3 Fill the jar with water until the water level is ¼ inch below the bottom of the bulb. The water should never touch the bulb. Keep the water at this level; the roots will grow down into the water. Step 4 Put the bulb in a cool, dark location for up to six weeks. It will bloom when it is brought out into the light.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Nothing says spring quite like tulips blooming in your garden. While these pretty flowers add beautiful splashes of color to your landscaping, they can be hazardous to any dogs living in your home, especially if your pet treats your garden like a salad bar.
Tulips Perennials that bloom in the spring, tulips spring forth from planted bulbs. With few leaves, the bloom is the main visual focus of the tulip plant. They come in a wide variety of colors, including yellow, pink, red and violet. Tulips contain compounds called tulipan A and tulipan B. These compounds are found in every part of the plant and are poisonous to animals including cats, horses and dogs. Symptoms If your dog eats any part of a tulip, it could experience digestive problems like vomiting and diarrhea. If these problems are serious enough, they can lead to dehydration. Tulip ingestion can also cause hypersalivation, or excessive drooling. This is messy and can also contribute to fluid loss. Eating tulips can also cause depression. Because your dog does not feel well, it might lose interest in food and interacting with you or other members of your household.
Treatment If you dog eats part of a tulip plant, call your veterinarian. The first thing your veterinarian will probably recommend is watchful waiting. Keep an eye on your dog and make sure it can easily access the outdoors. Give it plenty of clean water to drink. Most cases of gastric upset pass in a day or two. If your dog's symptoms linger or if it loses interest in food and water, bring it to your veterinarian's office. She can help clear the toxic elements from your dog's system as well as provide supportive care like restoring fluids so your dog stays hydrated as it recovers. Considerations The most poisonous part of the tulip is the bulb. If your dog likes to dig in your garden, fence off the area where you plant tulip bulbs so it cannot pull them out of the soil and eat them. If you bring tulips into your home, place them on tables or shelves that are high enough to keep them out of your pet's reach. If you do need to take your dog to the veterinarian, bring along a portion of the eaten tulip. It can help her decide how to best treat your dog.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
En otoño cuando los árboles caducifolios pierden todo su follaje y los troncos y sus ramas aparecen en completa desnudez nos percatamos de la presencia de musgos y líquenes adheridos en la superficie. Esa visión nos perturba un tanto porque no estamos muy seguros de si es buena o mala esa presencia. Musgos y líquenes son plantas epifitas, es decir plantas que viven sobre la superficie de otras plantas. Los líquenes son el resultado de una simbiosis entre un hongo y un alga. Altamente resistentes, tienen la capacidad de soportar una muy alta desecación y también pueden sobrevivir a grandes variaciones de temperatura (-70 a +70 ° C). Paradójicamente esta enorme resistencia convive junto a una extrema sensibilidad a la contaminación del aire. Los musgos, muy sensibles también en este aspecto, mueren a la menor presencia de cobre en su entorno. Los líquenes no soportan el dióxido de carbono, han sido los grandes derrotados de la era industrial. Los investigadores consideran hoy día a los musgos y líquenes como biomarcadores del nivel de contaminación en una zona determinada. Así que si sus árboles tienen musgo y liquen ¡alégrese! su jardín disfruta de un aire relativamente puro.
Musgos y líquenes simplemente viven sobre los árboles a modo de soporte, no penetran bajo la corteza y no se aprovechan de los recursos del árbol. No son plantas parásitas como el muérdago que sí se aprovecha de los recursos alimenticios del árbol. La duda nace entre los jardineros ven en ocasiones que cuando el musgo y el líquen aparecen sobre un árbol este pierde vitalidad. Pero no, el hecho es que musgos y líquenes prefieren los árboles viejos con la corteza rugosa donde se pueden fijar sin problemas y claro estos árboles en ocasiones ya están al final de su ciclo vital y pueden presentar problemas de salud.
Pero si usted observa una excesiva cantidad de musgos y líquenes sobre alguno de sus árboles, sobre todo si presenta zonas con la madera deteriorada por la edad o por heridas mal cicatrizadas, puede limpiarlos con un cepillo de cerdas duras de fibra vegetal o plástico pero nunca de metal.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Hay ciertos aspectos o características que definen a un árbol. Conocerlas hará una gran diferencia a la hora de elegirlo, cuidarlo y mantenerlo en nuestros jardines. No olvidemos que antes de comprar y plantar debemos conocerlos y elegir el adecuado. Las caracterísitcas que definen a un árbol son: Magnitud: Es la medida de altura que alcanzará en la edad adulta. El desconocimiento de esta característica puede ocasionar un desequilibrio en la plantación cuando los ejemplares son adultos. Silueta: Hace referencia a las características del tronco, si está desnudo o vestido en la base. Cuando es desnudo el tronco está despejado, sin ramas que impidan la circulación debajo de él. Puede ser útil para crear un lugar de sombra, o colocar un cantero con plantas de media sombra o sombra total. Cuando las ramas están desde la base del tronco, se dice que es vestido. Tipo de ramificación: Es como se disponen las ramas principales y secundarias para lograr diferentes formas de copa. En las especies caducifolias, la disposición de las ramas tendrá valor ornamental. Forma o figura: La forma de la copa, sigue a diferentes figuras geométricas. Por ejemplo, copa elipsoidal (figura elipsoide), columnar (columna), globosa (esfera), cónica (cono), péndula (colgante). Elipsoidal: Árbol del cielo (Ailanthus altissima), eucalipto (Eucalyptus globulus), Cedro (Cedrus atlantica), Ciprés (Cupressus macrocarpa). Columnar: Álamo piramidal (Populus alba f. “Pyramidalis”), Álamo chopo (Populus nigra “Italica”), Ciprés piramidal (Cupressus sempervirens f. “Stricta”). Globosa: Aromo francés (Acacia dealbata), Plátano (Platanus acerifolia), Naranja Dulce (Citrus sinensis), Acacia Bola (Robinia pseudoacacia f. “Umbraculifera”) Cónica: Araucaria (Araucaria bidwillii), Cedro (Cedrus deodara). Péndula: Acacia blanca péndula (Robinia pseudoacacia f. “Dependens”), Sauce llorón (Salix babilónica), Sófora Péndula (Styphnolobim japonicum f. “Pendulum”), Olmo péndulo (Ulmus pumila f. “Péndula”). Follaje: Incluye diferentes características, como color, densidad, textura y brillo de las hojas. Color: Recurso de valor ornamental. Existen follajes de todos los colores, hasta azules y plateados. En el período de defoliación, el follaje presenta tonos amarillos y rojos. Densidad: Follaje liviano cuando una copa deja pasar fácilmente los rayos solares, como el caso del abedul (Betula péndula). Es denso cuando las ramas obstaculizan la visión y el paso de luz, como en la encina (Quercus ilex). Textura: Esta hace referencia a la movilidad del auto, su flexibilidad o dureza. ]Es gruesa cuando las hojas son de gran tamaño (Magnolia grandiflora) y el viento apenas los mueve. Es fina cuando da una sensación de suavidad (Jacaranda mimosifolia).
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
Anteriormente vimos que una de las características de definen a un árbol es la magnitud. Ésta es la medida de altura que alcanzará en la edad adulta. El desconocimiento de esta característica puede ocasionarnos varios trastornos, entre ellos un desequilibrio en la plantación cuando los ejemplares son adultos así como otros trastornos en el jardín y el hogar. Es por ello que hoy les proponemos conocer algunas especies, conforme a su margnitud que puede ser la primera, segunda o tercera; siendo la primera la de más de 25 metros. Primera (más de 25 metros): Ailanthus altissima (Árbol del cielo) Casuarina cunninghamiana (Casuarina) Eucaliptus sp. (Eucalipto) Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo) Gleditzia triacanthos (Gleditzia) Grevillea robusta (Roble sedoso) Magnolia grandiflora (Magnolia) Maytenus boaria (Maitén) Platunus acerifolia (Plátano) Populus alba (Álamo) Populus nigra “Itálica” (Álamo piramidal) Quercus palustris (Roble de los plátanos) Sequoia sempervirens (Sequoia) Taxodium distichum (Ciprés calvo) Tipuana tipu (Tipa) Segunda (hasta 15 metros): Acer negundo (Arce) Acer dealbata (Aromo) Brachychiton populneum (Braquiquito) Catalpa bignonioides (Catalpa) Celtis australis (Almez) Fraxinus excelsior (Fresno americano) Jacaranda mimosifolia (Jacarandá) Liquidambar Styraciflua (Liquidámbar) Morus alba (Morera) Prosopis caldenia (Caldén) Salix mollis (Aguaribay) Tilia moltkei (Tilo) Tercera (hasta 10 metros): Acer buergerianum (Arce Trinerve) Acer palmatum (Arce japonés) Albizia julibrissin (Acacia de Constantinopla) Bauhinia candicans (Pezuña de vaca) Cassia Corimbosa (Sen del campo) Citrus aurantium (Naranjo amargo) Diospyros kaki (Caqui) Eriobotrya japonica (Níspero) Malus sp. (Manzano) Parkinsonia aculeata (sina-sina) Prunus laurocerasus (laurel cerezo) Prunus sp. (Ciruelo) Rhus typhina (Rhus) Sambucus australis (Sauco) Taxus baccata (Tejo)
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Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Miss Chen
En este artículo les mostraremos cómo eliminar el tocón de un árbol sin esfuerzo, nuestra espalda nos lo agradecerá. Este método es seguro y eficaz y no requiere apenas trabajo manual, el uso de un taladro y poco más. Pero hay que tener paciencia pues es un proceso a largo plazo que puede durar varias semanas. Parece un truco de magia pero no es más que química aplicada. Para realizar este trabajo necesitamos: Un taladro eléctrico una broca gruesa y larga nitrato potásico Tras cortar el árbol con la motosierra practicaremos una serie de perforaciones en el plano del tocón, cinco o seis en círculo serán suficientes. Después haremos otros agujeros en el plano vertical, éstos deben conectar con los orificios verticales realizados en la parte superior del tocón.
Verteremos con ayuda de una regadera o cualquier objeto similar los gránulos de nitrato potásico en el interior de las perforaciones, unos 100 gramos en cada orificio serán suficientes. A continuación verteremos agua para que los gránulos se disuelvan y el producto comience a hacer su efecto. El nitrato potásico se usa como fertilizante, así que lo podremos conseguir con facilidad en cualquier tienda de productos de jardinería o fertilizantes para agricultura. Este producto tiene además de sus cualidades como fertilizante la facultad de acelerar la descomposición de la madera. Al cabo de cuatro o seis semanas la madera se habrá vuelto esponjosa y podremos romperla con facilidad con el hacha. También se puede quemar el tocón añadiendo queroseno o gasoil en los orificios y prendiéndole fuego. Este recurso no obstante sólo deberemos llevarlo a la práctica en entornos rurales, donde estemos seguros de que cerca de las raíces del árbol no hay ningún conducto que podamos dañar, ya sea de gas, electricidad, agua o cualquier otro suministro. Así que en entornos urbanos o semiurbanos mejor no recurrir a la quema del tocón.
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