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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
All roses, even the beautiful and hardy Knock Out, can sometimes have problems. While most of these issues will not kill the plant, they can cause leaf spots, yellowing, wilting and blight that may make it look like the rose is dying.
Pests and Disease Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat. Hydration Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture. Pruning Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
The Knock Out® rose hybrids (Rosa "Knock Out®") began with "Radrazz" (Rosa 'Radrazz'), a cherry-red blooming, drought-tolerant rose with excellent disease resistance. More hybrids with different flower colors soon followed. While all Knock Out® roses are more resilient than most other types of roses, they still require supplemental irrigation when it does not rain.
Cultivars and Hardiness Knock Out® roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 11, although this varies slightly depending on cultivar. Fresh loamy soil should be piled up over the crowns of all Knock Out® roses to a depth of 10 to 12 inches for winter protection in USDA zones 4, 5 and 6. 'Radcon' (Rosa 'Radcon,' USDA zones 5 to 10) blooms in pink, 'Radcor' or rainbow (Rosa 'Radcor,' USDA zones 5 to 11) has dark coral pink flowers with yellow to pale coral centers and 'Radsunny' or sunny (Rosa 'Radsunny,' USDA zones 4 to 11) produces flowers that are gold-yellow in bud but change to bright yellow when they open and fade to cream-yellow. These Knock Out® roses all have single-form flowers with five to seven petals. 'Radtko' or double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtko,' USDA zones 4 to 10) produces cherry red flowers with 18 to 24 petals per flower. 'Radtkopink' or pink double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtkopink,' USDA zones 5 to 11) produces bubble-gum pink flowers with 18 to 24 petals each. Knock Out® roses are shrub roses that grow to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet in cold-winter climates but can mature to 6 feet by 6 feet or more in mild climates. When to Water In mild-winter climates above USDA zone 8b, Knock Out® roses bloom all year round. This means they must be watered all year round in southern regions with warm, dry winters. Knock Out® roses bloom from spring to first frost in cold-winter climates. In northern regions where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter, begin providing supplemental water in the spring when the ground warms and they begin growing, unless they are getting 2 inches of water per week from rain. Continue to water throughout the spring, summer and fall until the weather gets cold and they start dropping their leaves.
Amount and Frequency Roses need to be watered more often when they are planted in sandy, fast-draining soil than when they are planted in loamy or clay soil that drains more slowly. Newly planted Knock Out® roses need to be watered as often as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist for the first one to two months until they get established. Give them 3 gallons of water, then check the top inch of soil every few days. When it begins to dry, give them another 3 gallons. Give established Knock Out® roses planted in fast-draining soil 6 gallons or 2 inches of water each week when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They may not need to be watered that often in slower-draining soil. Always check the soil before watering. If the top 2 inches is still wet, wait a few more days -- as a general rule, water when the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry. As temperatures rise to between 80 and 90 degrees Ft, Knock Out® roses may need as much as 9 to 12 gallons or 3 to 4 inches of water each week. Even more may be needed when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F. How to Water Water Knock Out® roses from below the foliage with a watering can, garden hose or soaker hose.Even though they are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, it is better to keep the foliage as dry as possible. Distribute the water evenly over the soil from 2 inches away from the stems and extending out about 1 foot beyond the drip line** or outer edge of the branches. Always water in the morning** so foliage will dry throughout the day if it gets wet, and the moisture will be available to the shrub in the heat of the day. When using a soaker hose, set a 1-inch deep tuna or cat food can beneath the hose where water will drip into it to measure how much water is being delivered to the shrubs. Spread a 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the soil around Knock Out® roses to help conserve moisture, keep the roots cool and reduce weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent injury and disease that can result from the mulch keeping them too wet.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease. Pests Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide. Water Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
All roses must be pollinated in order to produce fruit and seeds, although they can also be propagated from stem cuttings. Pollination involves the movement of pollen from one flower to the next, or between the sexual organs of the same flower. Vectors for moving pollen include wind, birds and insects. Gardeners can also pollinate roses by hand, with the proper tools and timing.
Insect Pollination Bees and butterflies are the primary insect pollinators for many plants, including roses. As a bee takes nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to its legs and body hair. When it moves to the next flower, some of the pollen rubs off and sticks to the female sex organ of the rose, pollinating it. A butterfly has a long proboscis that probes for nectar. As a butterfly climbs through a flower, it collects pollen on its legs and wings, transferring it when it flits to the next flower. Butterflies and bees are most attracted to yellow, fragrant roses. Bird Pollination Birds are most attracted to red and orange roses because they see these colors best. Hummingbirds in particular are excellent pollinators. Because they hover as they feed, their wings stir up pollen, moving it from flower to flower. Many other types of birds come to feed on seeds when fruit develops after pollination, and seeds are dispersed in their droppings.
Wind Pollination Air currents are another important pollinator for roses. Space rosebushes so that they have plenty of ventilation between them. Overcrowding can lead to disease and insect problems, and it can also decrease pollination if air can't move freely. A breeze can pick up releasing pollen, dispersing it over a wide area. Some of it can't help but land on the sticky surfaces where pollination occurs. Artificial Pollination Roses can also be pollinated and hybridized by human hands. When the rose is fully open, collect the anthers, or filaments, from the center of the rose with your fingers. Lay them on a piece of paper to dry for 24 hours, then seal them in an airtight jar until you're ready to pollinate. Gently brush pollen onto the stigma of the flower with a pipe cleaner or artist's paintbrush.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Roses (Rosa spp.) produce showy, fragrant blooms that make them popular not only with gardeners, but also with various insect pests that enjoy feeding on the foliage. One common pest is the rose slug, which will feed on any rose species, including the Carolina rose (Rosa carolina) and the Knock Out rose (Rosa Radrazz), both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. You can choose from various control methods to kill rose slugs and keep your rose plants looking fabulous and smelling great.
About Rose Slugs Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods. Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests. Nonchemical Control Measures If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants. Staying Safe Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering. Rose Soil Preferences Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year. Lowering pH Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
It's natural for petals to fall off your roses when blossoms die away at the end of a bloom period. Yet if you discover your roses are continually dropping petals before the flower has completely bloomed or soon afterward, it can indicate a problem. Petals might be falling off your roses for several reasons, but once you identify the cause, you can take steps to address the issue, and therefore ensure your rose bushes are healthy and produce quality blooms all season long.
Changing Weather Conditions If weather conditions change rapidly from cool and damp to hot and dry, it can affect roses and cause petals to drop. Blossoms might partially open and then wilt and fall off when exposed to irregular weather patterns. All-American Rose Selections suggests providing rose bushes an additional layer of mulch and applying a potash-rich fertilizer or phosphate rock and green sand to lessen the impact of fluctuating temperatures and to fortify your rose bushes. Thrips Thrips are small insects with extended bodies that eat bud bases and petals. They prevent buds from opening, cause blooms to be misshaped as petals weaken and fall. Although they can be found on any rose bush variety, they frequently infest light-colored roses, such as white and pastels. Check the petals for yellow-brown lines and tiny dark dots or bumps to confirm the pest's presence. Prune buds affected with thrips. Apply an insecticide to the entire bush to eliminate the insect. More than one application might be required to eradicate them from your rose bush entirely.
Rose Midges Rose midges are a pest that impacts roses. It impacts rose buds and prevents buds from opening, so they eventually brown and fall off. Look for very small white fly larvae that resemble a caterpillar near the base of the bud. Midges can also be found among petals and sepals on an infected bush. Remove and dispose of all buds infested with midges. Spray the entire rose bush with an insecticide that contains either neem or spinosad, notes the All-American Rose Selections Pest Matrix. Both of these products will effectively eliminate midges from your rose bush. Botrytis Blight Botrytis blight is a fungal disease that affects rose bush flowers. The disease generally affects rose bushes during periods of cool, damp weather. The infection thwarts buds from opening and over time the buds become brown or shadowy gray in color and petals fall. Cut off infected buds; there is no treatment for the disease. As weather conditions change and turn hot and dry, the remaining, healthy flowers should dry and eventually open.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Companion planting helps protect roses against insect pests by masking the scent of roses and steering intruders to other hosts or directing them out of the garden entirely. Certain herbs make ideal companions for the rose garden by inviting beneficial insects into the landscape. Companion planting also creates a garden that invites compliments through skillful use of texture and color, fashioning an ideal year-round retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Protect Against Rose Beetles Italian parsley( Vaccinium neapolitanum), Okayama Prefecture, Honshu, Japan credit: YOSHIHARU NUGA/a.collectionRF/amana images/Getty Images plant parsley to protect against pests When planted with roses, parsley protects against the Fuller rose beetle. Rose beetle adults feed on the foliage of roses. The larvae feed on the rose's roots, chewing off the root hairs when young and girdling lateral roots as they grow. The damage done by the rose beetle causes death of the plant during severe drought and makes the rose especially susceptible to fungal infestation. The Fuller rose beetle, found in 30 states and Mexico, also attacks citrus, strawberries, beans, peaches, rhubarb and potatoes. Protect Against Aphids feverfew is a member of the sunflower family Aphids feed on the sap secreted by roses, attacking the undersides of leaves. A severe infestation causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Interplanting feverfew may ward off these soft-bodied invaders. Feverfew is a member of the sunflower family native to Europe. This short perennial produces yellow flowers reminiscent of daisies, which bloom from July to October and exude a strong, bitter odor that repels aphids. Although an aphid attack makes the rose's appearance less than desirable, the good news is the aphid infestation does not do serious harm to established rose bushes. Roses with Dwarf Conifers roses stand out against evergreens When companion planting for visual interest alone, look to dwarf conifers. Roses planted in front of dwarf conifers complement them by bestowing striking color and an interesting contrast in overall appearance against the background created by the evergreen plants. Plant a shrub rose like Carefree Beauty in front of a dwarf blue spruce. This medium-pink rose is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, blooms from June through frost and produces large, bright orange hips in winter.
Considerations marigolds also repel pests Marigolds have long been used to repel garden pests. Plant a double row of these fragrant annuals around the rose garden. The marigold's strong odor confuses pests and a substance given off by their root system drives back nematodes. Invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantis by planting savory, chamomile and thyme. Roses require a lot of water, well-drained soil, sun and timely fertilization. When choosing companion plants, look for those that do not compete with roses for these essentials. Also look for plants with harmonizing colors and low-growth habits that disguise the rose's lower, bare branches. Steer clear of plants, such as nasturtiums, that attract aphids. Unfortunately, no companion plants have been found that protect roses from Japanese beetles. According to a study published in the "Journal of Economic Entomology," planting aromatic herbs such as garlic and fennel among roses may lead to an increase in Japanese beetle damage.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Roses have a long history of human cultivation. Evidence suggests the ancient Chinese grew roses as far back as 3,000 B.C. People in the Roman Empire used the rose as a medical herb. During the 1600s, roses were even used as legal currency and in bartering, according to the University of Illinois Extension.
Roses Roses, the plants of the genus rosa, reproduce by generating seeds contained in a bowl-shaped fruit called a rose hip. The rose hip actually holds a small shell called an anchene. The anchene, commonly mistaken for the seed itself, envelops a single rose seed. Roses therefore fall under the angiosperm classification, since they protect their seeds within a fruit, or in this case, two fruits. Angiosperms One of the primary ways scientists by which classify plants is how the plant reproduces itself. Plants that reproduce themselves by creating seeds that grow inside of an ovule are called angiosperms. The ovule typically develops into a fruit that protects the seed from harm. The majority of the world's plant life, an estimated 80 percent of all the known species, reproduce from seeds using this method. Angiosperms come in an enormous variety of shapes and sizes, from flowering plants less than 1 inch long to trees that grow to 100 feet high.
Gymnosperms Gymnosperms, in contrast to angiosperms, produce seeds that are not enclosed inside a fruit. These are called "naked seeds" because they have little protection from the elements. Instead of a fruit, gymnosperms typically produce cones. A cone carries a seed between its scales, and as it matures, the scales expand, releasing the seed. Gymnosperms are not as diverse as angiosperms, and trees account for the majority of the group. Other Methods Although roses belong to the angiosperm group and reproduce naturally by means of seeds, human beings have cultivated the plants for many years and reproduce them using other methods. Most modern garden roses are hybrids created by grafting cuttings onto rootstock. You can also plant cuttings of some types of roses without grafting them. The best chance for success comes when taking a cutting of a stem's tip just as the hip begins to form, advises Texas A&M University.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miss Chen
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers. Pest Infestations Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own. Fungi Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
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