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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Because Pennsylvania includes three U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones and their subzones, the times for planting vegetables vary considerably from Philadelphia, which is in USDA zone 7a in the southeastern part of the state, to Bradford in USDA zone 5a in the northwest. The state's coldest areas, in USDA zone 5a, are mostly concentrated in Warren and McKean counties. Because the requirements for gardening in USDA zone 5a differ from those in USDA zone 5b regions, the two subzones are listed separately. Always adapt seedlings started indoors gradually to the cooler and brighter conditions outdoors before you transplant them into a garden. [图片]Hardy Vegetables Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a. Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants. Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May. [图片]USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March. USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April. USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April. USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May. Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil. USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April. USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May. USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May. USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June. Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays). If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season. USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April. USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May. USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May. USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June. Fall Vegetables Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool. USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August. USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August. USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Across the month of March, gardeners in Tennessee prepare their soil beds in anticipation of planting potatoes. Rather than growing these vegetables from seeds, gardeners purchase small, healthy tubers called seed potatoes, which are certified disease-free. Since seed potatoes are planted in the ground and initially protected from frost, planting take place roughly two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date across the Volunteer State. The ideal garden site for potatoes is one with fertile, organic-rich soil that is moist and drains well. Full sun exposure ensures the best growth and production of tubers for harvest. [图片]Step 1 Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March. Step 2 Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation. Step 3 Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured. Step 4 Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch. [图片]Step 5 Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores. Step 6 Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart. Step 7 Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
Fiddlehead ferns can refer to a number of young, unfurled ferns, but ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris) are the variety of ferns harvested and eaten. As part of a landscape design, however, ostrich ferns, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 7, make for a pleasing green backdrop for perennial plants. Before picking fiddleheads in the wild, ensure you have permission to do so -- that the ferns are not on private property and are not growing in a protected area, such as a nature preserve. Eat fiddleheads only in small quantities. [图片]Identifying Fiddlehead Ferns Although other ferns such as the lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina; USDA zones 3 through 9) and the bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum; USDA zones 3 through 11) can also be harvested and eaten, only ostrich ferns produce true fiddlehead ferns. Identify young ostrich ferns shoots by the U-shaped groove on the interior of the stalk and the papery brown covering at the curled portion of the fern. Ostrich ferns grow at least 6 feet high, while lady ferns and bracken ferns reach no more than 1 to 3 feet high. Ostrich ferns have five to nine fronds that grow in a rosette shape, creating a funnel. Finding and Growing Fiddleheads Although you can grow ostrich ferns for fiddleheads, some people forage for these ferns, going out in early spring to look for the young, green shoots. Ostrich ferns grow in groups of three to 12 fronds -- or fiddleheads when young -- and thrive in shady, cool environments. Look for them from late April to early June along streams, brooks and rivers. Home-grown ostrich ferns ensure an easy-to-find harvest each spring. Situate the ferns in an area that receives dappled sunlight and is consistently damp and moist. Ostrich ferns grow best in protected areas that do not receive much wind and have rich, moist soil. Start ferns in containers and space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Before planting, mix in compost, in a ratio of roughly 1 to 3 parts compost to soil, to a depth of 2 feet. Do not fertilize ferns, and water regularly, several times a week, to ensure the soil stays consistently damp when touched. [图片]Harvesting Fiddleheads Harvest fiddleheads for eating when they are still very young -- when they grow to 1 to 2 inches above ground. As they mature, the ferns become bitter and fully mature ostrich ferns -- unfurled -- should not be eaten. Harvest ostrich ferns until they grow more than 20 inches high, although the bigger they are, the more pronounced their taste becomes. Cut the ferns at the base of the plant, near where the U-shaped stalk hits the ground. Sterilize cutting tools -- knife or scissors -- beforehand, and wear gloves if necessary to protect fingers from accidental scrapes. The stems of younger ferns can sometimes also be broken by hand. Harvest no more than two-thirds of the fiddleheads from a plant. Cleaning and Storage Rinse fiddleheads in cold water to clean them, spraying and soaking to loosen the papery brown coating. Gently rub the fiddleheads to remove the papery coating. Rinse off any dirt caught in the U-shaped groove. Store fiddleheads in the refrigerator, in a plastic bag, for up to two weeks after harvest. You may also blanche and freeze cleaned fiddleheads for future use. All fiddleheads must be steamed or boiled before eating. For sauteed or stir-fried fiddleheads, steam or boil the ferns first.
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
鹿角海棠植株常呈匍匐丛生状,在欧美地区经常被用于盆栽或吊盆栽。绿色肥厚的叶片向外延伸,有很好的垂吊感。与其他品种的多肉植物合栽,也能起到很到的点缀作用。花季开花时,金黄鲜艳的花朵为盆栽增色不少,将它悬挂在室内,更显生机盎然,凸显出节日气氛。 因其养护简便,繁殖容易,习性强健,也被用于布置多肉植物主题园,是优良的观赏花卉品种。在日常养护中很多肉友都遇到过鹿角海棠叶子发皱的情况,这是什么原因造成的呢? [图片]鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因:少水 鹿角海棠叶子发皱最常见的问题就是叶片失水,因为缺水,小鹿的叶子水分供应不足,造成叶子缺水,从而出现皱皮的现象,严重的叶子会出现裂痕。若出现此种现象,应增加浇水量,适当的喷雾,增加空气湿度,小鹿慢慢就会恢复的。 鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因:水多 叶子发皱还可能是根部出现了问题。多肉大部分是热带植物,耐干旱,怕水渍,所以在养护过程中,叫谁呢过多,根部生长受阻,逐渐腐烂,从而对叶子的供水造成影响。出现此种情况,建议及时将小鹿脱盆,将烂掉的根系剪掉,重新栽种,先不要浇水,等土干了之后,浇一点水,等根慢慢长出来。 [图片]鹿角海棠叶子皮皱原因:阳光过强 小鹿喜欢阳光充足的环境,但难以忍受夏季的强光,夏季若长时间放在阳光下暴晒,因为蒸腾作用过强,叶子会缺水,从而造成列横或者皱皮。所以,夏季要将小鹿放在半阴处养护,适当的补充阳光,尤其夏季正午要遮阴。
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
现在多肉养殖越来越流行,但是生命有时也是很娇贵的,多肉会出现各种问题,其中一种就是化水,作为一个养殖多肉了两年多的小编,小编在这里就和大家聊一聊关于多肉化水的问题,告诉大家化水的拯救方法,希望对大家有帮助。 [图片]化水的原因多种多样,但最常见的就是持续闷热潮湿的环境,一般前期肉肉表现出来就是叶片开始化水掉落,或者掉落后就化水,化水的叶片通常呈透明状,严重的话会出现黑腐的现象,就是茎部是黑色的,摸上去是软烂的感觉(有的老的桩由于养的比较久也会呈现深色,但是摸上去是硬的,是没事的)。   通俗来讲,黑腐是化水的严重化了,所以我们可以分开看 1、多肉化水的植物,如果只是底层叶片个别化水的,情况不严重的,可以直接摘除化水的叶片,并且加强通风,如果盆土非常湿的话可以拿出来晾干后再干土上盆,日照的话就适当减弱缓缓盆,植物恢复正常后再加强日照正常养护就可以了。 2、如何整体已经化水比较严重了,并且伴随掉叶的现象,这个时候最好是拿出来清理根系,并且检查是否有黑腐的现象,有黑腐的话需要及时砍头,整体喷洒多菌灵稀释液后再充分晾干,干土上盆,明亮处缓盆。、已经出现黑腐的植物,需要拿出来及时的用利器切除所有黑色部位,喷洒多菌灵后充分晾干再干土上盆,有时候整桩砍成单头也是没有办法的事情。 [图片]看完如何处理黑腐化水的肉肉,我们看看平时养护的时候怎么尽量避免发生这样的情况。 首先还是要保证一个良好的通风环境,土壤见干才浇,盆土尽量保持干燥,平时季节偶尔淋淋雨什么的都是可以的,但是六七月以后天气逐渐转热,这时候淋场雨或者浇透水,刚好又赶上闷热的阴雨天,就会比较麻烦,所以温度高的时候还是尽量减少浇水比较好。 同时,上盆的时候土壤混合多菌灵粉末也可以起到一定的杀菌预防作用。配土的时候,土壤颗粒比例最好不低于50%,这样可以保持比较好的透气性及排水性。铺面的时候尽量也采用透气性好的颗粒土,如赤玉土、麦饭石等,个别肉友喜欢用那种白色的石子或者彩色的石子(其实是染色的)铺面,其实是不透气的,是不推荐使用的。
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
植物冻伤应该是冬季常发生的事,今天我们来说一说多肉被冻伤后怎么办。冻伤的程度不一样,处理的方法也不一样。 [图片]1.轻微冻伤 多肉植物部分叶片出现被冻伤的痕迹,明显的特征就是就是叶片出现水化瘪缩的征兆,变得透明化,甚至是灰化,像这种只是部分叶片出现冻伤的,可以放到之内供温,只要接下来的养护环境不要再趋于0℃(最好10℃以上),多肉植物活下来没什么问题,被冻伤的叶片则无法恢复,早晚瘪缩水化掉下来。 [图片]2.严重冻伤 多肉植物整株大部分叶片甚至就茎干都出现被冻伤的痕迹,明显的水化瘪缩,变得透明化甚至灰化黑化,像这种情况就比较复杂,如果只是叶片出现出现冻伤痕迹而茎干没有透明化黑化,那么将多肉植物放置在10℃以上,明亮且略通风的环境一周左右,期间不要浇水,将明显冻伤的叶片去除掉,略作观察。如果没有水化的趋势,一般都可以继续坚强的活下来。如果茎干有透明化软化的迹象,将冻伤的茎干部位切除干净(一定要切除干净,没切除干净会一直蔓延上去),伤口涂抹多菌灵,再放置观察,等一段时间后再枝插。如果部分茎干一开始就已经有冻伤的痕迹,那就直接将冻伤的部分切除掉,然后重复上述步骤。 3.被冻死了 如果多肉植物整株叶片全部严重冻伤,连茎干都水化了,那就只能安息了。
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Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Miss Chen
多肉灯泡是隶属于番杏科肉锥花属的多肉植物。表皮通常呈亮绿色,半透明,夏季休眠,光照充足的环境中表皮呈红色。花淡紫红色,中心白色,春季或秋季开放。花通常在天气晴朗的白天开放,夜晚闭合,若栽培环境光照不足或阴雨天则难以开花。半透明状在直射光下可以看出它是半透明的,闪着微微发红的光泽因植株晶莹剔透,看上去亮晶晶的,酷似灯泡而得名,又因株型很像日本的富士山,故有“富士山”别称。 [图片]下面要给大家分享的是灯泡多肉的常见三种病害及其防治方法。 1、粉虱危害 在叶背刺吸汁液,导致灯泡萎蔫,同时诱发煤污病,灯泡不再晶莹剔透,直接影响植株的观赏价值。 防治方法 加强通风,降低空气湿度。发生初期可用40%氧化乐果乳油1000-2000倍液喷杀,还可用马拉松500倍液或乐果混敌敌畏1000倍液喷杀,喷药2天后再用强力水流将死虫连同黑粉一起冲刷掉。 (注意:粉虱抗药性较强,较难杀灭,喷洒药剂要连续,并且经常换药。) 2、介壳虫危害 吸汁液,导致植株生长不良,严重时出现枯萎死亡。灯泡顶端出现许多白色的絮状物,后期成片出现。 防治方法 数量少时,可用毛刷驱除、牙签戳。也可用速扑杀(介必治、护花神均可)稀释液喷杀(有粉慎用),灌根、洗根。用75%酒精在介壳虫集中部位多次刷除。 3、小黑飞危害 喜欢腐殖质的食物,通常在肉肉旁边乱飞,啃食液肉,使其伤口感染产生病害。 防治方法 成年的小黑飞,喜欢湿怕干,在洋荤中保持土壤相对干燥,不给成虫创造栖息环境。养护中注意通风,保持盆土表面的清洁,不要什么都当做肥料放入盆中,科学施肥才是正道。在盆土表面铺上一层蛭石或者河沙,不要将腐殖土露在外面。 [图片]日常养护注意事项 灯泡喜凉爽、干燥和阳光充足的环境,适宜在昼夜温差较大的条件下生长,不耐阴、耐干旱、怕积水,既不耐寒,也不耐酷热。 9月至翌年4月至5月间为植株的生长期,可放在阳光充足处养护,避免水大,否则植株表皮易裂,看上去破败不堪,严重影响观赏,如果长期积水,还会造成植株腐烂。 由于灯泡生长速度不是很快,对养分的要求不是太高,栽培中不必施肥。 冬季置于室内阳光充足之处,不低于5℃即可安全越冬。 夏季的休眠期,要求有良好的通风环境,并避免烈日暴晒,控制浇水,使那层“牛皮纸”样的老皮中的水分蒸发、变薄,紧贴在植株上。 栽培中无论什么时候都要避免雨淋,尤其是长期雨淋。 灯泡的换盆在秋季进行,盆土要求疏松透气,排水性良好,具有一定的颗粒度,含有适量的石灰质,由于土壤是湿润的,栽后不必浇水,等1至2天后浇一次水,以使根部与土壤结合紧密。
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权问薇
2018年05月14日
权问薇
[图片]1、适时移栽 等到它有3到4片叶子长出时,可以找来一个16厘米口径大小的盆子将其移栽进去,盆土用腐叶土、菜园土、粗砂、草木灰等混配而成,以保证土壤的疏松性和排水性能。之后就可对其浇上透水,并放在较阴凉地养护,不可受阳光直射。 [图片]2、控制温度 等到霜降到来之后,即天气开始变冷时,如果你在北方,需要将它及时搬到温度较低的温室中,或者放在阳台上,并维持温度在10到20度之间,不可超过30度,不然,就会让叶片因为闷热变得发黄,这样根茎也较容易烂掉。同时,等到它到了现蕾时期,温度也应多加注意,最好将之控制在7到10度之间,这样可使花朵提前开放。 [图片]3、适当追肥 它极其喜肥,所以在养护的过程中,肥料对它很重要,应该每隔上一星期对其施加一次,肥料不仅使用有机肥,还要使用无机肥。在第一次施肥时,用鸡猪粪液肥最好,并保证浓度适当,第二次施肥时,以磷酸二氢钾为主,其浓度为3%,第三次施肥以无机肥料为主,这样轮流使用起来,可让花蕾早日开始分化。如果现蕾初期在春节前半个月,那它在春节即可开出花来。 4、适当舒蕾 在它刚出现花蕾时,应给它适当舒蕾,只留下3到5个健壮花蕾即可,这样就可让其花朵更大,观赏性也更佳。等到开花之后,还要及时将残花剪掉,防止营养流失,以让它开出更多花。 [图片]
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