文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Cordyline fruticosa, also called Hawaiian ti, is an evergreen shrub that performs well grown outside in warm and humid, frost-free climates. It is hardy and requires little care growing throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. It works well planted in containers and grown indoors or outside on patios. The plant is palmlike, growing up to 10 feet in height. Depending on the cultivar, the glossy foliage is purplish-red, green or streaked with combinations of purples, reds, white or yellow. In springtime, mature plants produce small yellow or reddish blooms.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
0
0
求助
Michub63
2018年08月09日
What ID for that tree,growing in Thailand and gives small red rose and sweet sour fruits
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
The energetic and showy goat's beard perennial (Aruncus dioicus) can fill in a sunny or partially sunny growing location with vibrant foliage and white, fuzzy blossoms. This dense flowering plant may reach heights of up to 6 feet with showy white flowers sitting among the leaves during midsummer. Give this flowering plant basic care, including pruning goat's beard perennial at the proper time, to keep the plant healthy and attractive.
Step 1
Trim the white blossoms after the goat's beard finishes blossoming in the middle of the summer. Use the pruning shears to trim the stems off at the base of the plant. Deadheading the goat's beard keeps the plant neat and may stimulate a second bloom before the end of the growing season.
Step 2
Place the stems into the bucket for disposal. Do not leave the trimmed foliage on the soil around the plant because it may create an unhealthy growing environment for the plant.
Step 3
Cut back the dead growth in the spring before the plant begins growing again. Use the pruning shears to cut the dead growth off just above the soil level. The plant will respond by producing fresh new shoots for the current growing season.
Step 4
Discard the dead growth in a compost bin or the trash.
Step 1
Trim the white blossoms after the goat's beard finishes blossoming in the middle of the summer. Use the pruning shears to trim the stems off at the base of the plant. Deadheading the goat's beard keeps the plant neat and may stimulate a second bloom before the end of the growing season.
Step 2
Place the stems into the bucket for disposal. Do not leave the trimmed foliage on the soil around the plant because it may create an unhealthy growing environment for the plant.
Step 3
Cut back the dead growth in the spring before the plant begins growing again. Use the pruning shears to cut the dead growth off just above the soil level. The plant will respond by producing fresh new shoots for the current growing season.
Step 4
Discard the dead growth in a compost bin or the trash.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
Iris blooms make every ounce of care worth the effort. They offer such a wide range of colors and shape of flower that planting irises can be quite the gardening adventure. Most irises are surprisingly low-maintenance during the growing season, but all irises that grow in climates with cold winters will benefit from some form of winter protection.
Preparing for Winter
While irises are low-maintenance, they require some minor care before winter sets in, if they are expected to provide those same big blooms next year. End-of-season care is also good for the health of the plant, providing an opportunity to inspect the iris bed in search of disease, dying plants or plants that need to be divided. After flowering, trim flower stalks as close to the ground as possible. This will give the plant one less part to worry about as its stores energy for winter. It's important to cut back the foliage or remove it once it's faded to yellow or brown. Cut it back to 6 inches in the fall while it's still green or wait until it's yellow or brown.
Mulch
Mulch is one of the simplest, most effective ways to protect the iris root system during frigid winter temperatures. Newly planted irises and established iris beds both benefit from a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots. Select pine needles, straw, leaves, compost or even just additional soil from the garden to make a 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant, recommends the University of Minnesota Extension. Remove some of the mulch from around the new plants in spring as soon as possible--such as when the snow begins to melt--and the rest of the mulch once the garden has dried out.
Dividing Irises
If established irises need to be divided, do so in midsummer, about four to six weeks after all blooms have faded. The plants need time to establish a root system before the winter, reports the North Carolina State University Extension. Those irises will probably put up new growth before winter sets in, but their root systems won't be strong enough to resist freeze/thaw cycles that may occur during the winter and early spring. Mulch newly divided irises in late fall.
Freeze/Thaw Cycles
Freeze/thaw cycles can wreak havoc on bulbs and tubers that overwinter in the garden. During these cycles, the already frozen ground thaws briefly, then freezes again, causing bulbs and tubers--irises, included--to be literally thrown from their beds. Of course, they can't survive this type of exposure, so a thick layer of mulch will help protect them.
Preparing for Winter
While irises are low-maintenance, they require some minor care before winter sets in, if they are expected to provide those same big blooms next year. End-of-season care is also good for the health of the plant, providing an opportunity to inspect the iris bed in search of disease, dying plants or plants that need to be divided. After flowering, trim flower stalks as close to the ground as possible. This will give the plant one less part to worry about as its stores energy for winter. It's important to cut back the foliage or remove it once it's faded to yellow or brown. Cut it back to 6 inches in the fall while it's still green or wait until it's yellow or brown.
Mulch
Mulch is one of the simplest, most effective ways to protect the iris root system during frigid winter temperatures. Newly planted irises and established iris beds both benefit from a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots. Select pine needles, straw, leaves, compost or even just additional soil from the garden to make a 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant, recommends the University of Minnesota Extension. Remove some of the mulch from around the new plants in spring as soon as possible--such as when the snow begins to melt--and the rest of the mulch once the garden has dried out.
Dividing Irises
If established irises need to be divided, do so in midsummer, about four to six weeks after all blooms have faded. The plants need time to establish a root system before the winter, reports the North Carolina State University Extension. Those irises will probably put up new growth before winter sets in, but their root systems won't be strong enough to resist freeze/thaw cycles that may occur during the winter and early spring. Mulch newly divided irises in late fall.
Freeze/Thaw Cycles
Freeze/thaw cycles can wreak havoc on bulbs and tubers that overwinter in the garden. During these cycles, the already frozen ground thaws briefly, then freezes again, causing bulbs and tubers--irises, included--to be literally thrown from their beds. Of course, they can't survive this type of exposure, so a thick layer of mulch will help protect them.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
If you enjoy growing tropical plants with colorful flowers, the plumeria plant (Plumeris spp.) could be an excellent choice for your garden or as a small indoor tree. Also called the frangipani or temple tree, the plant grows outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. You can help keep a plumeria tree in good shape and promote plenty of flowers by pruning it regularly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) spears are the new shoots of asparagus plants that grow in spring. Asparagus grows from seed, and plants live 20 to 30 years in good growing conditions. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, asparagus is hardy, and plants grow 3 to 5 feet tall. Young asparagus shoots can sometimes cause skin irritation, and the red berries produced by female asparagus plants are poisonous.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds.
How do they grow such giant pumpkins?
Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil:
Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.
In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds:
Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.
Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant:
Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.
Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants:
You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.
Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate:
Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune:
Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.
Step 7
Select a favorite:
The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.
Step 8
Fertilize carefully:
In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines:
As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.
Step 10
Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
How do they grow such giant pumpkins?
Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil:
Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it.
In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds:
Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big.
Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant:
Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination.
Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants:
You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center.
Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate:
Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune:
Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss.
Step 7
Select a favorite:
The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins.
Step 8
Fertilize carefully:
In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines:
As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily.
Step 10
Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
Step 1
To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.
Step 2
Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.
Step 3
Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.
Step 4
Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5
Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.
Step 6
Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.
Step 7
For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
Step 1
To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.
Step 2
Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.
Step 3
Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.
Step 4
Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5
Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.
Step 6
Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.
Step 7
For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Vining cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are annual plants, and they grow well vertically on a trellis, poles and other upright supports. Growing cucumbers vertically saves space, reduces leaf diseases and pest attack, and provides the heavier harvests than if the plants are grown along the ground. Another benefit of growing cucumbers vertically is that Asian and oriental varieties produce long, straight fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.
Missouri planting climate
During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the "North" planting categorization, even though it's in a more southern part of the state, due to its elevation. Planting times in each of these areas is affected by temperature and the date of the last frost. The southern part of Missouri has an average frost-free date of April 5. In northern Missouri, the average frost-free date is typically April 20, though the University of Missouri Extension notes that frost can hit until mid-May.
Missouri planting times
Planting dates vary by vegetable variety. The University of Missouri Extension offers a vegetable planting calendar that details planting dates for each vegetable based on region. Cold weather crops, such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, cabbage and cauliflower can be planted in March in the southern region. In the north, they can be planted in April, and in the central region they can be planted from mid-March to mid-April. Beans and cucumbers should be planted in mid- to late-April in the south and mid- to late-May in the north, and hey should be planted in early May in central Missouri. Warmer weather crops, such as peppers, squash and tomatoes, can be planted in May in the south, mid-May in central Missouri, and mid- to late-May in the northern region. Sweet corn can be planted from late April to mid-August in the south, from late April to early August in central Missouri and from early May to mid-July in the north.
Fall crops
Several varieties of vegetables can be sowed a second time for fall harvest. These dates are also listed on the MU Extension planting calendar. Beets, for example, can be sown from Aug. 1 to 15 in the south, Aug. 1 to 10 in central Missouri and July 25 to Aug. 1 in northern Missouri for a fall crop. Cabbage and carrots can be planted in early August in the south, in central Missouri from late July to early August and in late July in the north.
Missouri planting climate
During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the "North" planting categorization, even though it's in a more southern part of the state, due to its elevation. Planting times in each of these areas is affected by temperature and the date of the last frost. The southern part of Missouri has an average frost-free date of April 5. In northern Missouri, the average frost-free date is typically April 20, though the University of Missouri Extension notes that frost can hit until mid-May.
Missouri planting times
Planting dates vary by vegetable variety. The University of Missouri Extension offers a vegetable planting calendar that details planting dates for each vegetable based on region. Cold weather crops, such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, cabbage and cauliflower can be planted in March in the southern region. In the north, they can be planted in April, and in the central region they can be planted from mid-March to mid-April. Beans and cucumbers should be planted in mid- to late-April in the south and mid- to late-May in the north, and hey should be planted in early May in central Missouri. Warmer weather crops, such as peppers, squash and tomatoes, can be planted in May in the south, mid-May in central Missouri, and mid- to late-May in the northern region. Sweet corn can be planted from late April to mid-August in the south, from late April to early August in central Missouri and from early May to mid-July in the north.
Fall crops
Several varieties of vegetables can be sowed a second time for fall harvest. These dates are also listed on the MU Extension planting calendar. Beets, for example, can be sown from Aug. 1 to 15 in the south, Aug. 1 to 10 in central Missouri and July 25 to Aug. 1 in northern Missouri for a fall crop. Cabbage and carrots can be planted in early August in the south, in central Missouri from late July to early August and in late July in the north.
0
0
