文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing Persian violet indoors can add a splash of color and interest to the home. These easy to care for plants will reward you with beautiful blooms when given optimal conditions. Read on for more about Persian violet plant care.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are not true lilies but in the Araceae family. They are beautiful evergreen plants that produce creamy white spathes, similar to flowers. The presence of these plants in your home or garden may pose a risk to your pets, especially dogs that like to chew different plants in the landscape. How toxic is peace lily? Read this article for the answer and tips on how to protect your pet. 
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily is a popular indoor plant, valued for its easy-going nature, its ability to grow in low light environments, and last but certainly not least, the beautiful white flowers, which bloom nearly nonstop. Although this plant isn’t fussy, it’s important to understand how to water a peace lily. Read on for the details of peace lily watering requirements.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Prickly pear cacti, also known as Opuntia, are lovely cactus plants that can be planted in an outdoor desert garden or kept as a houseplant. Unfortunately, there are several common diseases that can attack these beautiful plants. One of the most serious diseases that affects prickly pear is cactus sunscald.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The desert is alive with numerous varieties of life. One of the most fascinating is the cactus longhorn beetle. What is a cactus longhorn beetle? These beautiful insects have rather scary looking mandibles and long, sleek antennae. Longhorn beetles on cactus won’t eat the plant, but their young can cause some damage. Cactus longhorn beetles live in the southwestern United States, especially in the Sonoran Desert.
What is a Cactus Longhorn Beetle?
Cactus devotees and managers of cactus gardens may shudder when they see the cactus longhorn beetle. Do cactus longhorn beetles hurt cactus? The adult is not the destroyer of the plants, but rather its progeny. The insect’s favorite plants are those that are not densely spined but also haunt Chollaand Prickly Pears. If you see holes in the plant filled with a black substance, you may well have longhorn larvae inside your cactus.
The cactus longhorn beetle has a hunched stance and elongated, almost horsy head. At an inch long or more, with shiny, black fused wings and huge antennae, cactus longhorn beetles look like they can do some damage. And they do, but not as much as their larvae. The feeding activity of the juveniles can severely damage even large cacti, which will soften in spots and eventually collapse in on itself as tissues are consumed. Fortunately, the insect has plenty of natural predators and is rarely an issue of high concern. In rare or valuable cactus specimens, a regimen of vigilance and control of cactus longhorn beetles is necessary to protect the plants. You can spot longhorn beetles on cactus in summer, in the early morning and at sunset.
Cactus Longhorn Beetle Info
The female lays individual eggs which hatch into brown headed larvae. These burrow into the cactus, secreting a green substance into the hole which hardens to a blackened tone, securing their entry. Larvae will feed on the roots and interior tissues of the cactus. They overwinter inside and emerge in spring as adults. During the day, adults hide in the sand to keep cool. Their primary objective is to mate before they die and feed infrequently but usually on tender new growth. Occasionally, adults will feed on new shoots and plants such as Portulaca. Once you see longhorn beetles on cactus, it’s time to grab a flashlight and get to work. Grab the family and mete out some old-fashioned control of cactus longhorn beetles. While adult feeding is unlikely to destroy a plant because they feed little and live a very short life, the young who hatch and overwinter in the plant have months to liquefy the interior of a cactus. This means catching the adults before they can hatch another generation of cactus predators. Adults are easy to spot when the sun is going down or just coming up. You can easily pick them off and destroy them in whatever way your karma will allow. If that means driving them out to the desert, away from your plants, by all means do that. Most people just close their eyes and step on them.
What is a Cactus Longhorn Beetle?
Cactus devotees and managers of cactus gardens may shudder when they see the cactus longhorn beetle. Do cactus longhorn beetles hurt cactus? The adult is not the destroyer of the plants, but rather its progeny. The insect’s favorite plants are those that are not densely spined but also haunt Chollaand Prickly Pears. If you see holes in the plant filled with a black substance, you may well have longhorn larvae inside your cactus.
The cactus longhorn beetle has a hunched stance and elongated, almost horsy head. At an inch long or more, with shiny, black fused wings and huge antennae, cactus longhorn beetles look like they can do some damage. And they do, but not as much as their larvae. The feeding activity of the juveniles can severely damage even large cacti, which will soften in spots and eventually collapse in on itself as tissues are consumed. Fortunately, the insect has plenty of natural predators and is rarely an issue of high concern. In rare or valuable cactus specimens, a regimen of vigilance and control of cactus longhorn beetles is necessary to protect the plants. You can spot longhorn beetles on cactus in summer, in the early morning and at sunset.
Cactus Longhorn Beetle Info
The female lays individual eggs which hatch into brown headed larvae. These burrow into the cactus, secreting a green substance into the hole which hardens to a blackened tone, securing their entry. Larvae will feed on the roots and interior tissues of the cactus. They overwinter inside and emerge in spring as adults. During the day, adults hide in the sand to keep cool. Their primary objective is to mate before they die and feed infrequently but usually on tender new growth. Occasionally, adults will feed on new shoots and plants such as Portulaca. Once you see longhorn beetles on cactus, it’s time to grab a flashlight and get to work. Grab the family and mete out some old-fashioned control of cactus longhorn beetles. While adult feeding is unlikely to destroy a plant because they feed little and live a very short life, the young who hatch and overwinter in the plant have months to liquefy the interior of a cactus. This means catching the adults before they can hatch another generation of cactus predators. Adults are easy to spot when the sun is going down or just coming up. You can easily pick them off and destroy them in whatever way your karma will allow. If that means driving them out to the desert, away from your plants, by all means do that. Most people just close their eyes and step on them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The genus Euphorbia boasts a number of fascinating and beautiful plants, and the Medusa’s Head euphorbia is one of the most unique. Medusa’s Head plants, native to South Africa, grow numerous grayish-green, snake-like branches extending from a central hub that keeps the twisty, leafless branches supplied with moisture and nutrients. In perfect conditions, the plants can measure as much as 3 feet across, and yellowish-green blooms appear around the hub in spring and summer. Want to learn how to grow a Medusa’s Head? Read on.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Hybridization has given us a host of beautiful and unusual plants to choose from when decorating our homes. The cactus family is a perfect example of the spectrum of plants available. The holiday plants such as the Christmas and Easter cactus, are the hybrids of the Brazilian forest cactus. These segmented plants bloom at certain times of the year, which gives them the holiday designations.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are very beautiful and delicate flowers, but they can be difficult to grow because they are temperamental by nature. They require a loose potting material to grow properly and stay upright. There are premixed varieties of potting materials for orchids, but you can learn make your own if you want to save a bit of money and customize your potting to your watering habits. Once you have learned the basic idea, you can re-create it in any amount you like to keep it on hand or plant several orchids with one batch of potting material mix.
Mixtures
If you prefer to mix a few types of potting media, use charcoal, fir bark and peat moss. All three are loose materials that will allow for a very small amount of water storage for the orchid, but mainly they will hold the plant in place without "packing" it in too tightly. Use 1 cup of both medium-grade charcoal and peat moss mixed with 6 cups of fir bark. Mix the materials together loosely with your hands, and gently pour it into the pot. Do not pack the materials down around the plant. Simply place them in a way to hold the plant steady.
Single Material Potting Media
Several types of potting mediums work well for orchids. The difference between them is water retention. If you frequently forget to water your plants, or if you are worried about dryness for any reason, use peat moss or fir bark chips because they hold on to more moisture than other potting mediums. If you are more worried about overwatering than drying, use a medium like clay pellets or rock wool because they dry quickly and will keep excess water away from the plant. If you are not worried about either overwatering or underwatering, use any of the potting mixtures you choose. Try a few and see which one you like best.
The most common mediums for orchids, besides those already listed, are fir bark chips, redwood bark chips, osmunda fiber, tree fern fiber, coconut fiber, coconut chips, sifted perlite, granular charcoal and cork. Use a combination of any of the mediums you like, or use them individually. The main goals for potting orchids are proper irrigation, water retention control, and support.
Mixtures
If you prefer to mix a few types of potting media, use charcoal, fir bark and peat moss. All three are loose materials that will allow for a very small amount of water storage for the orchid, but mainly they will hold the plant in place without "packing" it in too tightly. Use 1 cup of both medium-grade charcoal and peat moss mixed with 6 cups of fir bark. Mix the materials together loosely with your hands, and gently pour it into the pot. Do not pack the materials down around the plant. Simply place them in a way to hold the plant steady.
Single Material Potting Media
Several types of potting mediums work well for orchids. The difference between them is water retention. If you frequently forget to water your plants, or if you are worried about dryness for any reason, use peat moss or fir bark chips because they hold on to more moisture than other potting mediums. If you are more worried about overwatering than drying, use a medium like clay pellets or rock wool because they dry quickly and will keep excess water away from the plant. If you are not worried about either overwatering or underwatering, use any of the potting mixtures you choose. Try a few and see which one you like best.
The most common mediums for orchids, besides those already listed, are fir bark chips, redwood bark chips, osmunda fiber, tree fern fiber, coconut fiber, coconut chips, sifted perlite, granular charcoal and cork. Use a combination of any of the mediums you like, or use them individually. The main goals for potting orchids are proper irrigation, water retention control, and support.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are a large family of beautiful, tropical flowers. They come in a tremendous range of colors, sizes and shapes. Some are fragrant, even smelling like chocolate or coconut. Orchid fanciers wax poetic over the delicate beauty of these unusual flowers, but they do have a reputation as difficult to grow. Orchids have specific needs for fertilizer. While it is easiest to buy orchid food at the nursery, it is satisfying and cost-effective to make your own.
Nutrients
In their native habitats, orchids get nutrients from the air, water and whatever is nearby. Grown at home, it is up to you to provide the necessary nutrients for healthy growth and optimal flowering. Orchids require a proper balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, along with trace elements. Nitrogen promotes healthy stems and foliage, phosphorus makes roots strong and potassium promotes healthy flowers. These three nutrients are macronutrients. Trace elements include iron, zinc, copper and boron.
Rice Water
A good source of vitamins such as niacin, thiamin, riboflavin and folic acid necessary for healthy orchid growth is water used for boiling rice. The Care for Your Orchids website recommends using brown rice rather than white. It's an easy fertilizer to make -- after cooking rice, let the leftover water cool, then water the orchid. Make the rice water a more balanced fertilizer by dissolving Epsom salt, which contains magnesium, or molasses, a good source of potassium, into the water before use.
Eggshells
Dried eggshells are good source of calcium and other nutrients. Crush eggshells, then boil them in a large pot of water. Once the water reaches the boiling point, turn off the heat and allow the eggshells to steep for up to eight hours. You can discard the shells, and pour the water into a spray bottle for easy use. Just spray onto the bark around the orchids. Alternatively, you can just grind up eggshells and sprinkle around the plant. This is not as effective a method, however.
Potatoes
Potatoes provide potassium and a small amount of phosphorus, both essential for healthy orchid growth and flowering. Dice the potatoes into very small chunks, leaving on the skin. For even more potassium, you can add small pieces of banana. Boil this mixture for several minutes, and allow it to reach room temperature before use. For better nutrient balance, add 1 tsp. of Epsom salt, which will add magnesium. Use this mixture to water your orchids as usual.
Nutrients
In their native habitats, orchids get nutrients from the air, water and whatever is nearby. Grown at home, it is up to you to provide the necessary nutrients for healthy growth and optimal flowering. Orchids require a proper balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, along with trace elements. Nitrogen promotes healthy stems and foliage, phosphorus makes roots strong and potassium promotes healthy flowers. These three nutrients are macronutrients. Trace elements include iron, zinc, copper and boron.
Rice Water
A good source of vitamins such as niacin, thiamin, riboflavin and folic acid necessary for healthy orchid growth is water used for boiling rice. The Care for Your Orchids website recommends using brown rice rather than white. It's an easy fertilizer to make -- after cooking rice, let the leftover water cool, then water the orchid. Make the rice water a more balanced fertilizer by dissolving Epsom salt, which contains magnesium, or molasses, a good source of potassium, into the water before use.
Eggshells
Dried eggshells are good source of calcium and other nutrients. Crush eggshells, then boil them in a large pot of water. Once the water reaches the boiling point, turn off the heat and allow the eggshells to steep for up to eight hours. You can discard the shells, and pour the water into a spray bottle for easy use. Just spray onto the bark around the orchids. Alternatively, you can just grind up eggshells and sprinkle around the plant. This is not as effective a method, however.
Potatoes
Potatoes provide potassium and a small amount of phosphorus, both essential for healthy orchid growth and flowering. Dice the potatoes into very small chunks, leaving on the skin. For even more potassium, you can add small pieces of banana. Boil this mixture for several minutes, and allow it to reach room temperature before use. For better nutrient balance, add 1 tsp. of Epsom salt, which will add magnesium. Use this mixture to water your orchids as usual.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are known for their beautiful, aromatic flowers. They are originally from tropical regions, but can grow in most places with the proper care. Like other plants, you can clone orchids through a method called propagation.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen is a beautiful plant, but not necessarily a cheap one. Planting one or two in the garden or home is one thing, but if you want to grow a whole swath of them, you’ll notice the price tag adding up quickly. A perfect way to get around this (and also just to get more hands-on in your garden) is growing cyclamen from seed. Planting cyclamen seeds is relatively easy, although it does take quite a while and doesn’t follow all the rules you may be used to with seed germination. Keep reading to learn more about cyclamen seed propagation and how to grow cyclamen from seed.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen are low, flowering plants that produce bright, beautiful blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, and white. While they do well in garden beds, plenty of gardeners choose to grow them in containers. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow cyclamen in pots.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miniature potted roses accent a home's interior with beautiful rose blooms. Caring for mini roses indoors is similar to caring for full-size roses outdoors, only with less work. Indoors, the plant will typically be less prone to pests, and you won't have to worry about weather damage. Less care doesn't mean no care, of course. Keeping certain things in mind will help you maintain your mini roses.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
No matter what the color, roses are beautiful flowers, but purple roses are particularly special. They are a symbol of enchantment to send to someone you admire. Roses of a purple hue are widely available, although less often seen planted in a garden or featured in a bouquet. Yet their unusual color is what makes them visually striking and desired by home gardeners wanting a distinctive colored rose to make their flower beds stand out.
Melody Perfume
The melody perfume rose looks like a quintessential red rose in shape, but differs in color. Its blooms begin as a medium-dark lavender and transition to a pretty lilac as they age. It's named for its aromatic qualities that can fill an entire room with its intoxicating scent. The rose bush is medium size, about 5 feet tall at maturity, and stands upright. It has shiny, dark green foliage. Plant this rose in zones 5 through 9.
Blue Moon
Blue moon is a hybrid tea rose. Its purple-blue shade is what makes this rose unique. Blue moon produces large, ornamental blooms. One rose generally grows at the end of a long stem, which makes it suitable for displaying in a vase. It's a fragrant rose variety, which has a scent similar to a sweet tea. Plant this rose in warm weather climates, such as zones 5 through 9. It requires full sunshine to grow lots of flowers. When cultivated in the right growing conditions, it produces flowers all summer and fall.
Burgundy Iceberg
Despite its name, the burgundy iceberg rose produces vibrant purple roses. This almost thornless rose variety has a mild sweet scent. Unlike other purple varieties, burgundy iceberg roses are hardy and tolerate cooler climates. Plant them in zones 4 through 9. Expect the rose bush to grow to 3 to 4 feet tall when fully grown. Burgundy iceberg is disease-resistant.
Veilchenblau
The unusually named Veilchenblau climbing roses have deep purple, flat petals with bright yellow centers. Streaks of white radiate from their center. Over time, their color lightens to a bluish gray. Flowers bloom in bunches. These hybrids produce one annual bloom. Cultivate it in zones 5 through 9 and train them to grow up a trellis or fence. They are drought-resistant and can handle moderately shaded areas.
Melody Perfume
The melody perfume rose looks like a quintessential red rose in shape, but differs in color. Its blooms begin as a medium-dark lavender and transition to a pretty lilac as they age. It's named for its aromatic qualities that can fill an entire room with its intoxicating scent. The rose bush is medium size, about 5 feet tall at maturity, and stands upright. It has shiny, dark green foliage. Plant this rose in zones 5 through 9.
Blue Moon
Blue moon is a hybrid tea rose. Its purple-blue shade is what makes this rose unique. Blue moon produces large, ornamental blooms. One rose generally grows at the end of a long stem, which makes it suitable for displaying in a vase. It's a fragrant rose variety, which has a scent similar to a sweet tea. Plant this rose in warm weather climates, such as zones 5 through 9. It requires full sunshine to grow lots of flowers. When cultivated in the right growing conditions, it produces flowers all summer and fall.
Burgundy Iceberg
Despite its name, the burgundy iceberg rose produces vibrant purple roses. This almost thornless rose variety has a mild sweet scent. Unlike other purple varieties, burgundy iceberg roses are hardy and tolerate cooler climates. Plant them in zones 4 through 9. Expect the rose bush to grow to 3 to 4 feet tall when fully grown. Burgundy iceberg is disease-resistant.
Veilchenblau
The unusually named Veilchenblau climbing roses have deep purple, flat petals with bright yellow centers. Streaks of white radiate from their center. Over time, their color lightens to a bluish gray. Flowers bloom in bunches. These hybrids produce one annual bloom. Cultivate it in zones 5 through 9 and train them to grow up a trellis or fence. They are drought-resistant and can handle moderately shaded areas.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Sometimes roses are so beautiful that you may wish they would last forever. Luckily, with a bit of time and knowhow, your roses can be preserved. Although air drying is a simple, tried and true method, many experts believe that drying roses in silica gel is the best method of desiccation for roses and other flowers that have thick petals. Silica gel is a drying agent that will extract the moisture from the blooms while leaving their shapes and colors intact.
Step 1
Gather roses that are similar in size. If you are picking the roses from your own garden, harvest them in mid-morning on a dry day. Use only healthy, disease-free roses that are nearly at their peak.
Step 2
Remove the leaves from the stem and cut the stem down to 2 or 3 inches.
Step 3
Spread an inch of silica gel in the bottom of an airtight plastic container.
Step 4
Arrange the roses on top of the silica gel.
Step 5
Add silica gel around and on top of the roses until the blooms are completely covered with the gel. Add the gel a little at a time, jiggling the container after each addition to settle the gel around the roses before adding more.
Step 6
Check the roses after three to five days. Remove the lid and use a soft paintbrush to remove enough silica gel to enable you to access the rose. Touch a rose petal gently. The petal should feel papery and dry. If the rose isn't quite dry, replace the gel and check again the following day.
Step 7
Remove the roses from the silica gel when the blooms are completely dry, and use the soft paintbrush to gently brush excess silica gel from the blooms. Don't over-dry the roses, as the petals will become brittle and break easily.
Step 8
Create a stem with 20-gauge florist's wire. Push the end of the wire horizontally through the base of the rose, with about 2 inches of wire extending from the side of the stem base. Bend the short end of the wire down and wrap it around the longer wire and the rose stem. Cut the long end of the wire to the desired length, then wrap the wire with florist's tape.
Step 9
Gather a small bunch of about three to five roses with their foliage removed. Secure the bottom of the stems together with a rubber band.
Step 10
Hang the roses upside down from a hook in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room. Leave the roses for two to three weeks.
Step 11
Remove the dry roses form the hook. Spray the roses lightly with aerosol hair spray to strengthen their petals.
Step 1
Gather roses that are similar in size. If you are picking the roses from your own garden, harvest them in mid-morning on a dry day. Use only healthy, disease-free roses that are nearly at their peak.
Step 2
Remove the leaves from the stem and cut the stem down to 2 or 3 inches.
Step 3
Spread an inch of silica gel in the bottom of an airtight plastic container.
Step 4
Arrange the roses on top of the silica gel.
Step 5
Add silica gel around and on top of the roses until the blooms are completely covered with the gel. Add the gel a little at a time, jiggling the container after each addition to settle the gel around the roses before adding more.
Step 6
Check the roses after three to five days. Remove the lid and use a soft paintbrush to remove enough silica gel to enable you to access the rose. Touch a rose petal gently. The petal should feel papery and dry. If the rose isn't quite dry, replace the gel and check again the following day.
Step 7
Remove the roses from the silica gel when the blooms are completely dry, and use the soft paintbrush to gently brush excess silica gel from the blooms. Don't over-dry the roses, as the petals will become brittle and break easily.
Step 8
Create a stem with 20-gauge florist's wire. Push the end of the wire horizontally through the base of the rose, with about 2 inches of wire extending from the side of the stem base. Bend the short end of the wire down and wrap it around the longer wire and the rose stem. Cut the long end of the wire to the desired length, then wrap the wire with florist's tape.
Step 9
Gather a small bunch of about three to five roses with their foliage removed. Secure the bottom of the stems together with a rubber band.
Step 10
Hang the roses upside down from a hook in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room. Leave the roses for two to three weeks.
Step 11
Remove the dry roses form the hook. Spray the roses lightly with aerosol hair spray to strengthen their petals.
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