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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Also known as red palm or red sealing wax palm, lipstick palm (Cyrtostachys renda) is appropriately named for its distinctive, bright red fronds and trunk. Lipstick palm is considered by many to be one of the world’s most beautiful and exotic palms. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zone 10b or above, where temperatures never drop below 40 F. (4.5 C.), you can grow this stunning palm in your own garden. Read on for more lipstick palm information.
Lipstick Palm Information
Lipstick palm is a tropical plant native to Malaysia, Borneo, Southern Thailand and Sumatra, where it grows in swampy areas, along riverbanks and in coastal tidal areas. It is threatened in some areas due to reduction of lowland forests. Red sealing wax palm reaches heights of up to 50 feet in its natural environment, but usually tops out at about 25 to 30 feet in the home garden.
How to Grow Lipstick Palms
Lipstick palm growing conditions includes partial shade while the plant is young. Otherwise, mature trees thrive in full sunlight. This warm climate tree prefers year round temperatures between 75 and 85 F. (24-29 C.). Red sealing wax palm doesn’t grow well in dry soil and isn’t tolerant of strong winds. It requires high humidity and even grows in swampy conditions or standing water, making this palm a useful pond plant.
Although lipstick palm can be started by seed, it’s much easier and faster to remove and replant suckers from the side of an established tree. If you’re adventurous and want to try your hand at growing lipstick palm from seeds, remove dry seedheads from a plant, then remove the seeds and plant them in a planting media with excellent moisture retention. Germination generally takes at least two to four months, and seeds may not sprout for up to nine months.
Lipstick Palm Plant Care
As mentioned above, the main challenge when it comes to lipstick palm plant care is keeping the soil consistently moist. Otherwise, lipstick palm requires little attention. Although lipstick palm can be grown in a container indoors, most growers find it extremely difficult to maintain adequate humidity and warmth to sustain the plant.
Lipstick Palm Information
Lipstick palm is a tropical plant native to Malaysia, Borneo, Southern Thailand and Sumatra, where it grows in swampy areas, along riverbanks and in coastal tidal areas. It is threatened in some areas due to reduction of lowland forests. Red sealing wax palm reaches heights of up to 50 feet in its natural environment, but usually tops out at about 25 to 30 feet in the home garden.
How to Grow Lipstick Palms
Lipstick palm growing conditions includes partial shade while the plant is young. Otherwise, mature trees thrive in full sunlight. This warm climate tree prefers year round temperatures between 75 and 85 F. (24-29 C.). Red sealing wax palm doesn’t grow well in dry soil and isn’t tolerant of strong winds. It requires high humidity and even grows in swampy conditions or standing water, making this palm a useful pond plant.
Although lipstick palm can be started by seed, it’s much easier and faster to remove and replant suckers from the side of an established tree. If you’re adventurous and want to try your hand at growing lipstick palm from seeds, remove dry seedheads from a plant, then remove the seeds and plant them in a planting media with excellent moisture retention. Germination generally takes at least two to four months, and seeds may not sprout for up to nine months.
Lipstick Palm Plant Care
As mentioned above, the main challenge when it comes to lipstick palm plant care is keeping the soil consistently moist. Otherwise, lipstick palm requires little attention. Although lipstick palm can be grown in a container indoors, most growers find it extremely difficult to maintain adequate humidity and warmth to sustain the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock trees are the Ferraris of the evergreen world — these graceful, drooping trees and shrubs are gorgeous additions to the landscape, but require very exacting conditions to do well. Like other beautiful and delicate things, if you can get hemlocks to thrive in your landscape, you’ll be the envy of your neighbors; but a hemlock in poor health will only make your home look sad and worn out. If you’re considering planting a hemlock in your yard as a specimen tree or for a unique hedge, read on to learn more about hemlock tree care.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
Landscaping With Hemlocks
Growing hemlock trees is a piece of cake, provided that you take their many needs into consideration when planting them. The question isn’t so much how to plant a hemlock tree as where to plant them. Unlike many other large landscape trees, hemlocks have evolved while growing in the shade of other trees, so you’ll need to choose a place that’s protected, especially against winter winds and drying summer heat. Hemlocks can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, but won’t tolerate dry or compacted soils at all. Although there are many hemlocks to choose between for gardeners in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, many cultivars only do well in a smaller part of that range, so read the nursery tag carefully before bringing your hemlock home.
Care of Hemlock Trees
Once established, hemlocks require little care, but establishing them can be a challenge. They need acidic soils that stay moist, but not wet, and frequent waterings. Like willows, hemlocks are riverbank trees, so if your site is elevated and dry, you may need to add a thick ring of mulch over your tree’s root zone and consider installing a drip irrigation system to keep your tree looking its best. The shallow roots of the hemlock can allow it to topple easily; if high winds are a frequent problem, a stabilizing tree stake should be considered while your hemlock is young.
Although the hemlock isn’t bothered by pests or diseases as a rule, they do have one pest that seems to find them wherever they go. The hemlock wooly adelgid is a small, aphid-like insect that hides inside a woolly sac — the most notorious and troublesome pest of hemlocks. Regular inspections of your hemlock will help prevent serious damage from this pest, provided you check for them at least once a year. October is the best time to treat these pests, using either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Imidacloprid is sometimes used as a yearly treatment where adelgids are a constant threat.
Occasional pruning of hemlock trees may be necessary when weather related issues or other damage is present.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Flowering dogwood trees are a beautiful addition to any landscape. Unfortunately, this tree, like many others, is susceptible to attack from pests and disease that can cause damage and drastically shorten its life. Flowering dogwood problems such as disease and insects always hit weak or older trees first. The most common sign that your tree may be in trouble is when you notice the tree leaves dripping.
Why is My Dogwood Dripping Water?
Oftentimes, dogwood tree dripping, especially when watery in nature, is due to pests. Some of the most common pests that affect dogwoods and lead to tree leaves dripping include borers, scale, aphids and ants. Dogwood Borers – One very devastating problem with dogwood trees is dogwood borers, which are caterpillars that drill tunnels into the trunk of the tree. Weak and older trees are most susceptible to borers that leave wet areas on the bark early on. If you find your dogwood tree dripping sap, it may be a good indication that borers are at work. Once these damaging pests are inside a tree, they are very hard to eradicate.
Scale Insects – Scale insects are pesky little bugs that thrive on dogwood tree sap. They excrete a sugary liquid known as honeydew, which can down rain in large amounts and result in tree leaves dripping. Scale infestations are more damaging some years than others and seem to come in cycles. Using an insecticidal soap is an effective treatment for this problem. Tree Aphids – Aphids commonly affect ornamental trees and, like scale, will suck the sap from dogwoods. They also secrete honeydew, which can be recognized easily by a dogwood dripping water. Neem oil is a great way to control aphids on trees, or you can use a homemade solution of organic control as well.
Carpenter Ants and Rot – Some people may find their dogwood dripping water or the tree leaves dripping what appears to be water. It’s possible that carpenter ants and rot are causing this problem. These ants are so small that it is very hard to determine whether they are present or not. Carpenter ants feed on rotting wood. If there is a hole in the tree where water has accumulated, ants find plenty for dinner. Unfortunately, carpenter ants are very hard to get rid of once they are inside a tree. They dine on the inside of the tree, and the tree loses moisture through weeping. It is best to remove a tree that has carpenter ants before they move on to other trees in your landscape. Ants can also be found feasting on aphid honeydew, so check for these pests as well whenever you notice a dogwood tree dripping.
Dogwood Tree Sap
Not all flowering dogwood problems are the result of pests or disease. Dogwood tree dripping can also be the result of improper pruning. Sometimes dogwood trees are injured by other causes, such as a storm damage.
Since dogwood trees are known to be “bleeders,” they respond to injury by releasing sap, which will flow freely from the injured site. This dogwood tree sap is what is used to produce flowers and the tree must be left alone to heal. Always prune your dogwood trees in early summer to avoid injury and prune out any weak or older branches.
Why is My Dogwood Dripping Water?
Oftentimes, dogwood tree dripping, especially when watery in nature, is due to pests. Some of the most common pests that affect dogwoods and lead to tree leaves dripping include borers, scale, aphids and ants. Dogwood Borers – One very devastating problem with dogwood trees is dogwood borers, which are caterpillars that drill tunnels into the trunk of the tree. Weak and older trees are most susceptible to borers that leave wet areas on the bark early on. If you find your dogwood tree dripping sap, it may be a good indication that borers are at work. Once these damaging pests are inside a tree, they are very hard to eradicate.
Scale Insects – Scale insects are pesky little bugs that thrive on dogwood tree sap. They excrete a sugary liquid known as honeydew, which can down rain in large amounts and result in tree leaves dripping. Scale infestations are more damaging some years than others and seem to come in cycles. Using an insecticidal soap is an effective treatment for this problem. Tree Aphids – Aphids commonly affect ornamental trees and, like scale, will suck the sap from dogwoods. They also secrete honeydew, which can be recognized easily by a dogwood dripping water. Neem oil is a great way to control aphids on trees, or you can use a homemade solution of organic control as well.
Carpenter Ants and Rot – Some people may find their dogwood dripping water or the tree leaves dripping what appears to be water. It’s possible that carpenter ants and rot are causing this problem. These ants are so small that it is very hard to determine whether they are present or not. Carpenter ants feed on rotting wood. If there is a hole in the tree where water has accumulated, ants find plenty for dinner. Unfortunately, carpenter ants are very hard to get rid of once they are inside a tree. They dine on the inside of the tree, and the tree loses moisture through weeping. It is best to remove a tree that has carpenter ants before they move on to other trees in your landscape. Ants can also be found feasting on aphid honeydew, so check for these pests as well whenever you notice a dogwood tree dripping.
Dogwood Tree Sap
Not all flowering dogwood problems are the result of pests or disease. Dogwood tree dripping can also be the result of improper pruning. Sometimes dogwood trees are injured by other causes, such as a storm damage.
Since dogwood trees are known to be “bleeders,” they respond to injury by releasing sap, which will flow freely from the injured site. This dogwood tree sap is what is used to produce flowers and the tree must be left alone to heal. Always prune your dogwood trees in early summer to avoid injury and prune out any weak or older branches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwoods are among the most beautiful trees found in American landscapes, but not all types are suitable for the garden. Find out about the different kinds of dogwood trees in this article.
Dog Tree Types
Of the 17 species of dogwood native to North America, the four most common garden types are native flowering dogwoods, Pacific dogwood, Cornelian cherry dogwood and kousa dogwoods. The latter two are introduced species that have earned a place in American gardens because they are more disease resistant than native species.
Other native species are best left in the wild because of their coarse texture or unruly habit. Let’s look at the four different types of dogwood trees best suited to cultivated landscapes.
Flowering Dogwood
Of all the varieties of dogwood, gardeners are most familiar with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). This beautiful tree is interesting all year, with pink or white flowers in late winter or early spring, followed by attractive green foliage. In late summer, the leaves turn dark red, and bright red berries appear in place of the flowers. The berries are an important food for several types of wildlife, including many species of songbirds. In the winter, the tree has an attractive silhouette with small buds at the tips of the branches. Flowering dogwoods grow to between 12 and 20 feet tall with a trunk diameter of 6 to 12 inches. They thrive in sun or shade. Those in full sun are shorter with better leaf color, especially in the fall. In the shade, they may have poor fall color, but they have a more graceful, open canopy shape.
Native to the Eastern U.S., this handsome tree thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Flowering dogwood is susceptible to anthracnose, a devastating and incurable disease that can kill the tree. In areas where anthracnose is a problem, plant kousa or Cornelian cherry dogwood instead.
Kousa Dogwood
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is very similar to the flowering dogwood. The first difference you will notice is that the leaves appear before the flowers, and the tree flowers a couple of weeks later than the flowering dogwood. The fall fruit looks like raspberries, and it’s edible if you can tolerate the mealy texture. If you’re going to plant near a patio, flowering dogwood may be a better choice because the kousa’s berries create a litter problem. It tolerates the cooler temperatures of zones 4 through 8. There are several noteworthy hybrids of C. florida and C. kousa.
Pacific Dogwood
Pacific dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) grows on the West Coast in a band between San Francisco and British Columbia. Unfortunately, it doesn’t thrive in the east. It’s a taller and more upright tree than the flowering dogwood. Pacific dogwood thrives in USDA zones 6b through 9a.
Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a European species that thrives in zones 5 through 8, although it looks ragged by the end of the season in areas with hot summers. You can grow it as a small tree or a tall, multi-stemmed shrub. It reaches heights of 15 to 20 feet. It blooms in late winter or very early spring, with the yellow blossoms making their appearance before early spring-bloomers such as forsythia. You can use the cherry-like fruit in preserves.
Dog Tree Types
Of the 17 species of dogwood native to North America, the four most common garden types are native flowering dogwoods, Pacific dogwood, Cornelian cherry dogwood and kousa dogwoods. The latter two are introduced species that have earned a place in American gardens because they are more disease resistant than native species.
Other native species are best left in the wild because of their coarse texture or unruly habit. Let’s look at the four different types of dogwood trees best suited to cultivated landscapes.
Flowering Dogwood
Of all the varieties of dogwood, gardeners are most familiar with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). This beautiful tree is interesting all year, with pink or white flowers in late winter or early spring, followed by attractive green foliage. In late summer, the leaves turn dark red, and bright red berries appear in place of the flowers. The berries are an important food for several types of wildlife, including many species of songbirds. In the winter, the tree has an attractive silhouette with small buds at the tips of the branches. Flowering dogwoods grow to between 12 and 20 feet tall with a trunk diameter of 6 to 12 inches. They thrive in sun or shade. Those in full sun are shorter with better leaf color, especially in the fall. In the shade, they may have poor fall color, but they have a more graceful, open canopy shape.
Native to the Eastern U.S., this handsome tree thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Flowering dogwood is susceptible to anthracnose, a devastating and incurable disease that can kill the tree. In areas where anthracnose is a problem, plant kousa or Cornelian cherry dogwood instead.
Kousa Dogwood
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is very similar to the flowering dogwood. The first difference you will notice is that the leaves appear before the flowers, and the tree flowers a couple of weeks later than the flowering dogwood. The fall fruit looks like raspberries, and it’s edible if you can tolerate the mealy texture. If you’re going to plant near a patio, flowering dogwood may be a better choice because the kousa’s berries create a litter problem. It tolerates the cooler temperatures of zones 4 through 8. There are several noteworthy hybrids of C. florida and C. kousa.
Pacific Dogwood
Pacific dogwood (Cornus nuttallii) grows on the West Coast in a band between San Francisco and British Columbia. Unfortunately, it doesn’t thrive in the east. It’s a taller and more upright tree than the flowering dogwood. Pacific dogwood thrives in USDA zones 6b through 9a.
Cornelian Cherry Dogwood
Cornelian cherry dogwood (Cornus mas) is a European species that thrives in zones 5 through 8, although it looks ragged by the end of the season in areas with hot summers. You can grow it as a small tree or a tall, multi-stemmed shrub. It reaches heights of 15 to 20 feet. It blooms in late winter or very early spring, with the yellow blossoms making their appearance before early spring-bloomers such as forsythia. You can use the cherry-like fruit in preserves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwood trees are beautiful, iconic landscaping trees that come from the forest understory. Although they’re great for adding lots of curb appeal, they’ve got a few serious problems that can spoil the idyllic feel of your yard. It’s never good news when a tree gets sick, especially when it’s your stately dogwood tree. Dogwood tree blight, for example, is a fungal infection of dogwood trees that can turn these valuable visual assets into serious detriments. Read on to find out about dogwood tree blight and what you can do to help your plant through this rough time.
Dogwood Anthracnose Information
Dogwood blight, also known as dogwood anthracnose for the fungal pathogen that causes the disease, is a fairly new problem. It is believed to have started in the northeastern United States about 25 years ago, but has been spreading southward ever since. The early symptoms are similar to leaf spot diseases, with purple-bordered soft, wet spots appearing on leaves, especially around the margins. Once the disease spreads to leaf petioles and twigs, however, it becomes more obvious. Leaves attached to these infected areas will shrivel and turn black. In very advanced disease, lower branches may die, cankers may form on the limbs and trunk sprouts will increase in number.
Controlling Dogwood Blight
Dogwood blight control is difficult, but if you catch it early, you may be able to save the tree by cutting out all diseased tissues. That means all leaves, all twigs and all branches showing signs of infection must be removed and destroyed promptly. Small trees may be saved with a fungicide spray applied every 10 to 14 days as long as cool, moist weather persists. Prevention of dogwood blight is the best tool you’ve got to keep your landscaping trees healthy. Keeping your dogwood properly watered and fertilized is the first line of defense, two to four inches of mulch spread over the root zone will help maintain soil moisture. Removing spent leaves, pruning low branches, opening up a dense canopy and trimming water sprouts in the fall will create intolerable conditions for the fungus.
If you’ve lost a tree to dogwood blight, consider replacing it with Oriental dogwood (Cornus kousa). It has a high tolerance to anthracnose. White dogwoods seem to be less susceptible to the infection than their pink counterparts; there are also new cultivars of the Appalachian dogwood series that are bred to be anthracnose resistant. Whatever you do, don’t transplant a wild dogwood into the landscape – this is how many infections started.
Dogwood Anthracnose Information
Dogwood blight, also known as dogwood anthracnose for the fungal pathogen that causes the disease, is a fairly new problem. It is believed to have started in the northeastern United States about 25 years ago, but has been spreading southward ever since. The early symptoms are similar to leaf spot diseases, with purple-bordered soft, wet spots appearing on leaves, especially around the margins. Once the disease spreads to leaf petioles and twigs, however, it becomes more obvious. Leaves attached to these infected areas will shrivel and turn black. In very advanced disease, lower branches may die, cankers may form on the limbs and trunk sprouts will increase in number.
Controlling Dogwood Blight
Dogwood blight control is difficult, but if you catch it early, you may be able to save the tree by cutting out all diseased tissues. That means all leaves, all twigs and all branches showing signs of infection must be removed and destroyed promptly. Small trees may be saved with a fungicide spray applied every 10 to 14 days as long as cool, moist weather persists. Prevention of dogwood blight is the best tool you’ve got to keep your landscaping trees healthy. Keeping your dogwood properly watered and fertilized is the first line of defense, two to four inches of mulch spread over the root zone will help maintain soil moisture. Removing spent leaves, pruning low branches, opening up a dense canopy and trimming water sprouts in the fall will create intolerable conditions for the fungus.
If you’ve lost a tree to dogwood blight, consider replacing it with Oriental dogwood (Cornus kousa). It has a high tolerance to anthracnose. White dogwoods seem to be less susceptible to the infection than their pink counterparts; there are also new cultivars of the Appalachian dogwood series that are bred to be anthracnose resistant. Whatever you do, don’t transplant a wild dogwood into the landscape – this is how many infections started.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwoods are beautiful trees with striking spring flowers. They are impressive trees to have around, but not every gardener has the space or the means to take care of a large tree. Other gardeners may not live in a zone warm enough to overwinter a dogwood outside. With some skill and attention, though, you can keep a dogwood tree in a container. Keep reading to learn more about caring for potted dogwood trees.
Can I Grow Dogwood In a Container?
Can I grow dogwood in a container? Technically, yes. It’s possible, but there are certain requirements to be met, and it’s not for the casual gardener. Dogwood trees have very dense, fast growing root systems that are less than ideal for container growing. They also need extremely well-draining soil, but at the same time the plants need lots of water, particularly in the first few years of life. Containers dry out quickly, so you’ll probably have to mulch heavily and water it every day or so.
How to Grow Dogwoods in a Container
When growing dogwood trees in pots, it’s important to give the roots plenty of room. This means you should opt for as big of a container as you can manage. Even so, you’ll want to remove the tree from its container to prune the roots back on occasion to keep it from becoming root bound. Again, container grown dogwoods will require plenty of moisture so you’ll have to water the tree frequently. You can also add a bit of mulch to the top of the soil, which should help it retain some of that moisture.
Caring for potted dogwood trees in the winter is also tricky. The plants need cold temperatures in order to go dormant during the winter. If you want to bring it inside, it’s best to put it somewhere protected but unheated, like a shed or a garage.
Can I Grow Dogwood In a Container?
Can I grow dogwood in a container? Technically, yes. It’s possible, but there are certain requirements to be met, and it’s not for the casual gardener. Dogwood trees have very dense, fast growing root systems that are less than ideal for container growing. They also need extremely well-draining soil, but at the same time the plants need lots of water, particularly in the first few years of life. Containers dry out quickly, so you’ll probably have to mulch heavily and water it every day or so.
How to Grow Dogwoods in a Container
When growing dogwood trees in pots, it’s important to give the roots plenty of room. This means you should opt for as big of a container as you can manage. Even so, you’ll want to remove the tree from its container to prune the roots back on occasion to keep it from becoming root bound. Again, container grown dogwoods will require plenty of moisture so you’ll have to water the tree frequently. You can also add a bit of mulch to the top of the soil, which should help it retain some of that moisture.
Caring for potted dogwood trees in the winter is also tricky. The plants need cold temperatures in order to go dormant during the winter. If you want to bring it inside, it’s best to put it somewhere protected but unheated, like a shed or a garage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Evergreen dogwoods are beautiful tall trees grown for their fragrant flowers and remarkable fruit. Keep reading to learn more Cornus capitata information, including tips on evergreen dogwood care and how to grow an evergreen dogwood tree.
Cornus Capitata Information
Evergreen dogwood trees (Cornus capitata) are hardy down to USDA zone 8. They are native to east and Southeast Asia but can be grown in warm climates all over the world. They can grow as high as 50 feet (15 m.) in height, though they tend to top out between 20 and 40 feet (6-12 m.). In the summer, they produce very fragrant flowers, which are very small and surrounded by 4 to 6 bracts that are often mistaken for petals. The bracts come in shades of white, yellow, and pink. These flowers give way to very distinctive fruits that are actually dozens of tiny fruits fused together. These fruits are pink to red, about an inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) and round but bumpy. They are edible and sweet, but they can cause a litter problem if the tree is planted near a walkway. The leaves are dark and evergreen, though they are sometimes known to turn red to purple and partially drop in autumn.
How to Grow an Evergreen Dogwood Tree
Like many dogwood varieties, evergreen dogwood trees can thrive in both sun and shade. They do best in moist, clay to loam soil. They prefer acidity, but they can tolerate light alkalinity. They need a lot of water.
The trees are monoecious, which means they can self-pollinate. It’s important to bear in mind, however, that they will not flower for 8 to 10 years if they are grown from seed. It’s best to start the trees from cuttings if you want to see flowers or fruit within the decade.
Cornus Capitata Information
Evergreen dogwood trees (Cornus capitata) are hardy down to USDA zone 8. They are native to east and Southeast Asia but can be grown in warm climates all over the world. They can grow as high as 50 feet (15 m.) in height, though they tend to top out between 20 and 40 feet (6-12 m.). In the summer, they produce very fragrant flowers, which are very small and surrounded by 4 to 6 bracts that are often mistaken for petals. The bracts come in shades of white, yellow, and pink. These flowers give way to very distinctive fruits that are actually dozens of tiny fruits fused together. These fruits are pink to red, about an inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) and round but bumpy. They are edible and sweet, but they can cause a litter problem if the tree is planted near a walkway. The leaves are dark and evergreen, though they are sometimes known to turn red to purple and partially drop in autumn.
How to Grow an Evergreen Dogwood Tree
Like many dogwood varieties, evergreen dogwood trees can thrive in both sun and shade. They do best in moist, clay to loam soil. They prefer acidity, but they can tolerate light alkalinity. They need a lot of water.
The trees are monoecious, which means they can self-pollinate. It’s important to bear in mind, however, that they will not flower for 8 to 10 years if they are grown from seed. It’s best to start the trees from cuttings if you want to see flowers or fruit within the decade.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is a true cedar that takes its name from the Atlas Mountains of Northern Africa, its native range. Blue Atlas (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’) is among the most popular cedar cultivars in this country, with its beautiful powdery blue needles. The weeping version, ‘Glauca Pendula,’ can be trained to grow like a vast umbrella of tree limbs. Read on for more information about Blue Atlas cedar trees and care.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The cedar of Lebanon tree (Cedrus libani) is an evergreen with beautiful wood that has been used for high quality timber for thousands of years. Lebanon cedar trees usually have only one trunk with many branches that grow out horizontally, spiraling up. They are long lived and have a maximum life span of over 1,000 years. If you are interested in growing cedar of Lebanon trees, read on for information about these cedars and tips about cedar of Lebanon care.
Lebanon Cedar Information
Lebanon cedar information tells us that these conifers are native to Lebanon, Syria and Turkey. In yesteryear, vast forests of Lebanon cedar trees covered these regions, but today they are largely gone. However, people around the world began growing cedar of Lebanon trees for their grace and beauty.
Lebanon cedar trees have thick trunks and stout branches too. Younger trees are shaped like pyramids, but the crown of a Lebanon cedar tree flattens as it ages. Mature trees also have bark that is cracked and fissured.
You’ll have to be patient if you want to start growing cedar of Lebanon. The trees don’t even flower until they are 25 or 30 years old, which means that until that time, they do not reproduce. Once they begin to flower, they produce unisex catkins, 2-inches long and reddish in color. In time, the cones grow to 5 inches long, standing up like candles on the branches. The cones are light green until they mature, when they become brown. Their scales each contain two winged seeds that are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cedar of Lebanon
Cedar of Lebanon care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. Only plant Lebanon cedar trees if you have a big backyard. A cedar of Lebanon tree is tall with spreading branches. It can rise to 80 feet tall with a spread of 50 feet. Ideally, you should grow Lebanon cedars at elevations of 4,200-700 feet. In any event, plant the trees in deep soil. They need generous light and about 40 inches of water a year. In the wild, Lebanon cedar trees thrive on slopes facing the sea where they form open forests.
Lebanon Cedar Information
Lebanon cedar information tells us that these conifers are native to Lebanon, Syria and Turkey. In yesteryear, vast forests of Lebanon cedar trees covered these regions, but today they are largely gone. However, people around the world began growing cedar of Lebanon trees for their grace and beauty.
Lebanon cedar trees have thick trunks and stout branches too. Younger trees are shaped like pyramids, but the crown of a Lebanon cedar tree flattens as it ages. Mature trees also have bark that is cracked and fissured.
You’ll have to be patient if you want to start growing cedar of Lebanon. The trees don’t even flower until they are 25 or 30 years old, which means that until that time, they do not reproduce. Once they begin to flower, they produce unisex catkins, 2-inches long and reddish in color. In time, the cones grow to 5 inches long, standing up like candles on the branches. The cones are light green until they mature, when they become brown. Their scales each contain two winged seeds that are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cedar of Lebanon
Cedar of Lebanon care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. Only plant Lebanon cedar trees if you have a big backyard. A cedar of Lebanon tree is tall with spreading branches. It can rise to 80 feet tall with a spread of 50 feet. Ideally, you should grow Lebanon cedars at elevations of 4,200-700 feet. In any event, plant the trees in deep soil. They need generous light and about 40 inches of water a year. In the wild, Lebanon cedar trees thrive on slopes facing the sea where they form open forests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Bismarck palm is a slow-growing, but ultimately massive palm tree, not for small yards. This is a landscaping tree for monumental scale, but in the right setting it can be a beautiful and regal tree to anchor a space and accent a building. Watering a new Bismarck palm is crucial for ensuring it grows and thrives.
About the Bismarck Palm
The Bismarck palm, Bismarckia nobilis, is a large sub-tropical palm tree. It is a solitary palm that is native to the island of Madagascar, but which does well in zones 9 through 11 in the U.S. thriving in areas like Florida and southern Texas. It grows slowly, but can go up to 50 feet (15 m.) high with a crown that can reach up to 20 feet (6 m.) across.
How to Water Newly Planted Bismarck Palms
A Bismarck palm is a big investment, both in time and money. The tree only grows one to two feet (30 to 60 cm.) per year, but over time it grows quite large. To ensure that it will be there for years to come, you need to know when to water Bismarck palms, and how. Not watering a new Bismarck palm could have disastrous consequences. Bismarck palm watering can be tricky. To get it right, you need to water your new palm so that its roots stay moist for the first four to six months, without letting it get waterlogged. Good drainage is crucial, so before you plant the tree, make sure the soil will drain well. A good basic guideline is to water the palm every day for the first month and then two to three times per week for the next several months. Continue watering once a week for about the first two years, until your palm is well established.
A good rule of thumb for the amount of water you should use at each watering is to go by the container the Bismarck palm came in. For example, if it arrived in a 25-gallon (95-liter) container, give your new tree 25 gallons of water each time, a little more in hotter weather or less in cooler weather. New Bismarck palm watering is a real commitment, but this is a grand tree that needs care to thrive, so don’t neglect it.
About the Bismarck Palm
The Bismarck palm, Bismarckia nobilis, is a large sub-tropical palm tree. It is a solitary palm that is native to the island of Madagascar, but which does well in zones 9 through 11 in the U.S. thriving in areas like Florida and southern Texas. It grows slowly, but can go up to 50 feet (15 m.) high with a crown that can reach up to 20 feet (6 m.) across.
How to Water Newly Planted Bismarck Palms
A Bismarck palm is a big investment, both in time and money. The tree only grows one to two feet (30 to 60 cm.) per year, but over time it grows quite large. To ensure that it will be there for years to come, you need to know when to water Bismarck palms, and how. Not watering a new Bismarck palm could have disastrous consequences. Bismarck palm watering can be tricky. To get it right, you need to water your new palm so that its roots stay moist for the first four to six months, without letting it get waterlogged. Good drainage is crucial, so before you plant the tree, make sure the soil will drain well. A good basic guideline is to water the palm every day for the first month and then two to three times per week for the next several months. Continue watering once a week for about the first two years, until your palm is well established.
A good rule of thumb for the amount of water you should use at each watering is to go by the container the Bismarck palm came in. For example, if it arrived in a 25-gallon (95-liter) container, give your new tree 25 gallons of water each time, a little more in hotter weather or less in cooler weather. New Bismarck palm watering is a real commitment, but this is a grand tree that needs care to thrive, so don’t neglect it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
White ash trees (Fraxinus americana) are native to the eastern United States and Canada, ranging naturally from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, Texas, and Florida. They are big, beautiful, branching shade trees that turn glorious shades of red to deep purple in the fall. Keep reading to learn white ash tree facts and how to grow a white ash tree.
White Ash Tree Facts
Growing a white ash tree is a long process. If they don’t succumb to disease, the trees can live to be 200 years old. They grow at a moderate rate of about 1 to 2 feet per year. At maturity, they tend to reach between 50 and 80 feet in height and 40 to 50 feet in width.
They also tend to have one leader trunk, with evenly spaced branches growing in a dense, pyramidal fashion. Because of their branching tendencies, they make very good shade trees. The compound leaves grow in 8- to 15-inch long clusters of smaller leaflets. In the fall, these leaves turn stunning shades of red to purple. In the spring, the trees produce purple flowers that give way to 1- to 2-inch long samaras, or single seeds, surrounded by papery wings.
White Ash Tree Care
Growing a white ash tree from seed is possible, though more success is had when they’re transplanted as seedlings. Seedlings grow best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. White ash prefers moist, rich, deep soil and will grow well in a wide range of pH levels.
Unfortunately, white ash is susceptible to a serious problem called ash yellows, or ash dieback. It tends to occur between 39 and 45 degrees of latitude. Another serious problem of this tree is the emerald ash borer.
White Ash Tree Facts
Growing a white ash tree is a long process. If they don’t succumb to disease, the trees can live to be 200 years old. They grow at a moderate rate of about 1 to 2 feet per year. At maturity, they tend to reach between 50 and 80 feet in height and 40 to 50 feet in width.
They also tend to have one leader trunk, with evenly spaced branches growing in a dense, pyramidal fashion. Because of their branching tendencies, they make very good shade trees. The compound leaves grow in 8- to 15-inch long clusters of smaller leaflets. In the fall, these leaves turn stunning shades of red to purple. In the spring, the trees produce purple flowers that give way to 1- to 2-inch long samaras, or single seeds, surrounded by papery wings.
White Ash Tree Care
Growing a white ash tree from seed is possible, though more success is had when they’re transplanted as seedlings. Seedlings grow best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. White ash prefers moist, rich, deep soil and will grow well in a wide range of pH levels.
Unfortunately, white ash is susceptible to a serious problem called ash yellows, or ash dieback. It tends to occur between 39 and 45 degrees of latitude. Another serious problem of this tree is the emerald ash borer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Iceberg roses are one of the oldest and most beautiful of the climbing roses. The blooms are so white, they are almost blinding. However, they do not make good cut flowers for two reasons. Their stems are very thin, and they do not stand up well in a vase, and the blooms grow in clusters, so it is hard to cut without cutting off the new buds as well. But they make a spectacular display along a fence, on a trellis or over an arbor. These steps will help you with the pruning process.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
Step 1
Understand that iceberg roses should be pruned in the spring, when there is no danger of frost. Iceberg roses are hardy in zones 4A to 9A, so the exact time will differ depending on where you live. Roses are resilient, but if frost gets into a new cut, the stem will die. In the worse cases, you could lose the whole plant. Iceberg roses then need to be pruned during the growing season, and once again in the fall when they are prepared for the winter.
Step 2
Keep in mind that spring pruning for iceberg roses is done in two different ways, depending on whether you want the roses to grow as shrubs about 3 to 4 feet tall, or grow taller as bushes. In order to make them grow as shrubs, you need to do hard pruning. This means cutting back the heavy wood more severely. But, this will keep the amount of flowers low.
Step 3
Know that if you use the one-third method, you will encourage the roses to grow taller. Remove just a third of the oldest growth. This will leave you enough woody growth for new shoots to sprout from. Now choose a third of the best from last year's growth to replace the old ones that you cut away and remove the rest.
Step 4
Remember that summer is the time to prune and shape the plant. Remove about a third of the flowering canes. Trim them short, to right above the five leaf section. There are two types of leaves on a rose plant. Some have three to a stem. Some have five. Look for the five. Also, remove the dead flowers, being careful not to cut off the close buds. Since iceberg roses grow in clusters, the new buds will be very close to the dead flowers. In the colder climates, do not prune too late in the summer. It will only make more growth, and you do not want it now.
Step 5
In warmer climates, you will need to do pruning in the winter as well. In late November or early December, cut them back to about 2 feet high if you want shrubs and 3 to 4 feet high if you want taller bushes. Always prune with the shape of the plant in mind.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
As gardeners, some of us grow plants for food, some because they are beautiful and aromatic, and some for the wild critters to feast on, but all of us are interested in a new plant. Unique specimens that will have the neighbors talking include Scorpiurus muricatus plants, also known as prickly scorpion’s tail plant. What is prickly scorpion’s tail and is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Let’s learn more about caring for prickly scorpion’s tail.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Gardeners delight in easy to care for and beautiful ground covers that they can just plug in and let go. Creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens) is one of these garden favorites that, once planted, provides a feast of color all season long. This low-growing beauty has a dainty trailing habit, which makes it perfect for hanging baskets and container arrangements as well. Keep reading to learn more about creeping zinnia ground cover plants.
Growing Creeping Zinnia Plants
Use creeping zinnia in the garden if you have a sunny spot with well-drained soil that needs some color. Where summers are mild, this Mexican native will spread up to 18 inches and bear beautiful little orange or yellow sunflower-like flowers from summer through fall.
Creeping zinnia ground cover does best when sown in a sunny garden spot in early spring. Use light, loamy potting soil with plenty of drainage if using the plant in a container garden. Many people start creeping zinnia ground cover seeds in hanging baskets or containers indoors, about four to six weeks before spring, to get a jump-start on the season. Sow seeds on top of a prepared planting surface and cover lightly with peat moss for best results. Keep seeds evenly moist until you see sprouts emerge, which should be sometime within a couple weeks.
Creeping Zinnia Care
Once creeping zinnia in the garden is well established, their care is minimal. Fertilize growing creeping zinnia plants monthly during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Creeping zinnias are drought, humidity and heat tolerant and should not be overwatered. If you are using creeping zinnias in a container or hanging basket, be sure to provide a little extra water, as needed since pots tend to dry out quickly. There are no major pests associated with growing creeping zinnia plants.
Growing Creeping Zinnia Plants
Use creeping zinnia in the garden if you have a sunny spot with well-drained soil that needs some color. Where summers are mild, this Mexican native will spread up to 18 inches and bear beautiful little orange or yellow sunflower-like flowers from summer through fall.
Creeping zinnia ground cover does best when sown in a sunny garden spot in early spring. Use light, loamy potting soil with plenty of drainage if using the plant in a container garden. Many people start creeping zinnia ground cover seeds in hanging baskets or containers indoors, about four to six weeks before spring, to get a jump-start on the season. Sow seeds on top of a prepared planting surface and cover lightly with peat moss for best results. Keep seeds evenly moist until you see sprouts emerge, which should be sometime within a couple weeks.
Creeping Zinnia Care
Once creeping zinnia in the garden is well established, their care is minimal. Fertilize growing creeping zinnia plants monthly during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Creeping zinnias are drought, humidity and heat tolerant and should not be overwatered. If you are using creeping zinnias in a container or hanging basket, be sure to provide a little extra water, as needed since pots tend to dry out quickly. There are no major pests associated with growing creeping zinnia plants.
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