文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are an invaluable plant, because they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Succulents are water-retaining and are adapted to arid climates and soil conditions. High temperatures and low precipitation have forced these plants to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of different leaf forms and plant shapes.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you want beautiful yards that can survive extreme drought conditions, it’s time you become familiar with succulent gardening.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are all the rage and with good reason. They are beautiful, interesting, and in most cases easy to care for. They are often used as decor both indoors and out. Succulents are living plants that require some care to survive and thrive, and while caring for them is not complex, knowing the basics will help you have the healthiest plants around.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
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meriunkat
2017年09月13日
Also on your way to Instagram go follow fortheloveofsucculents
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年09月07日
hopefully the moss spread out and makes it more beautiful
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Lucky Coyote：@meriunkat I love it so much 😆 it adds a really beautiful air to things
meriunkat：love moss😆
成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年09月07日
Rest I peace my beautiful Painted Lady, I'm sorry I couldn't save you
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) is a beautiful tree, native to the warm Canary Islands. You can consider planting a Canary Island date palm outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, or indoors in a container anywhere. With its shiny, feathery fronds, arching branches and ornamental fruit, this tree is not of the low-maintenance school. You’ll want to read up on care of Canary Island palm trees to be sure the plant stays healthy and happy.
Information on Canary Date Palms
If you are dreaming of Canary palm trees growing in your backyard, you’ll need lots of room. Information on Canary date palms lists these trees as growing up to 65 feet tall with a potential spread of 40 feet. However, planting a Canary Island date palm is not entirely out of the question if you have a small backyard. Canary palm trees growing speed is slow, and your specimen will only get to 10 feet tall during its first 15 years in the backyard. Other information on Canary date palms notes the long leaves of the species – from 8 to 20 feet long – and the extremely sharp spines at the frond base. The trunk can grow to 4 feet in diameter. Small white or gray blossoms produce showy ornamental date-like fruits in the summer.
Care of Canary Island Palm Trees
Planting a Canary Island date palm requires a full sun location and plenty of irrigation when the palm is young. As far as Canary palm tree care, think about providing water every week to help the plant establish deep roots. Once the tree is mature, you can reduce irrigation. Canary palm tree care includes feeding the tree. You’ll want to fertilize it every spring just before new growth appears. These trees need high levels of potassium and magnesium as part of Canary palm tree care. They can easily come down with deficiencies of these nutrients under landscape conditions. You’ll identify potassium deficiency by the pale color or spotting of the oldest fronds. As the deficiency progresses, the frond tips get brown and brittle.
Your tree has a magnesium deficiency if you see lemon yellow bands along the outer margins of older leaves. Sometimes, the trees have both potassium and magnesium deficiencies at the same time. Fortunately, the palm usually has few disease or pest issues.
Information on Canary Date Palms
If you are dreaming of Canary palm trees growing in your backyard, you’ll need lots of room. Information on Canary date palms lists these trees as growing up to 65 feet tall with a potential spread of 40 feet. However, planting a Canary Island date palm is not entirely out of the question if you have a small backyard. Canary palm trees growing speed is slow, and your specimen will only get to 10 feet tall during its first 15 years in the backyard. Other information on Canary date palms notes the long leaves of the species – from 8 to 20 feet long – and the extremely sharp spines at the frond base. The trunk can grow to 4 feet in diameter. Small white or gray blossoms produce showy ornamental date-like fruits in the summer.
Care of Canary Island Palm Trees
Planting a Canary Island date palm requires a full sun location and plenty of irrigation when the palm is young. As far as Canary palm tree care, think about providing water every week to help the plant establish deep roots. Once the tree is mature, you can reduce irrigation. Canary palm tree care includes feeding the tree. You’ll want to fertilize it every spring just before new growth appears. These trees need high levels of potassium and magnesium as part of Canary palm tree care. They can easily come down with deficiencies of these nutrients under landscape conditions. You’ll identify potassium deficiency by the pale color or spotting of the oldest fronds. As the deficiency progresses, the frond tips get brown and brittle.
Your tree has a magnesium deficiency if you see lemon yellow bands along the outer margins of older leaves. Sometimes, the trees have both potassium and magnesium deficiencies at the same time. Fortunately, the palm usually has few disease or pest issues.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Birch trees are highly desirable landscape trees because of their beautiful bark and graceful foliage. Unfortunately, they aren’t known for their long lifespan. You can improve their chances by pruning birch trees properly, and taking advantage of the best time to prune birch trees.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Aspen trees are a popular addition to landscapes in Canada and the northern parts of the United States. The trees are beautiful with white bark and leaves that turn a striking shade of yellow in the autumn, but they can be finicky in a few different ways. Keep reading to learn more aspen tree information, including how to care for aspen trees in landscapes.
Aspen Tree Information
One problem that many people come up against when growing aspen trees is their short lifespan. And it’s true – aspen trees in landscapes usually only live between 5 and 15 years. This is usually due to pests and diseases, which can be a real problem and sometimes have no treatment. If you notice your aspen becoming sick or infested, the best thing to do is often to cut the offending tree down. Don’t worry, you won’t be killing the tree. Aspens have large underground root systems that continually put up new suckers that will grow into large trunks if they have the space and the sunlight.
In fact, if you see several aspens growing near each other, odds are good that they’re actually all parts of the same organism. These root systems are a fascinating element of the aspen tree. They allow the trees to survive forest fires and other aboveground problems. One aspen tree colony in Utah is thought to be over 80,000 years old. When you’re growing aspen trees in landscapes, however, you probably don’t want a colony that puts up new suckers all the time. The best way to prevent this spread is to surround your tree with a round metal sheet sunk 2 feet into the ground a few feet from the trunk. If your tree does fall to disease or pests, try cutting it down – you should see new suckers very soon.
Common Aspen Tree Varieties
Some of the more common aspen trees in landscapes include the following:
Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
Korean aspen (Populus davidiana)
Common/European aspen (Populus tremula)
Japanese aspen (Populus sieboldii)
Aspen Tree Information
One problem that many people come up against when growing aspen trees is their short lifespan. And it’s true – aspen trees in landscapes usually only live between 5 and 15 years. This is usually due to pests and diseases, which can be a real problem and sometimes have no treatment. If you notice your aspen becoming sick or infested, the best thing to do is often to cut the offending tree down. Don’t worry, you won’t be killing the tree. Aspens have large underground root systems that continually put up new suckers that will grow into large trunks if they have the space and the sunlight.
In fact, if you see several aspens growing near each other, odds are good that they’re actually all parts of the same organism. These root systems are a fascinating element of the aspen tree. They allow the trees to survive forest fires and other aboveground problems. One aspen tree colony in Utah is thought to be over 80,000 years old. When you’re growing aspen trees in landscapes, however, you probably don’t want a colony that puts up new suckers all the time. The best way to prevent this spread is to surround your tree with a round metal sheet sunk 2 feet into the ground a few feet from the trunk. If your tree does fall to disease or pests, try cutting it down – you should see new suckers very soon.
Common Aspen Tree Varieties
Some of the more common aspen trees in landscapes include the following:
Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
Korean aspen (Populus davidiana)
Common/European aspen (Populus tremula)
Japanese aspen (Populus sieboldii)
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are big, graceful trees that are relatively low-maintenance and hardy enough to grow in a variety of conditions. While the long, slender branches of most willow tree species lend themselves to creation of beautiful woven baskets, certain larger willow species are preferred by weavers around the world. Read on to learn more about growing willow plants for baskets.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The Osage orange tree is native to North America. It is said that the Osage Indians made hunting bows from the beautiful hard wood of this tree. An Osage orange is a fast grower, and rapidly gets to its mature size of up to 40 feet tall with an equal spread. Its dense canopy makes it an effective windbreak. If you are interested in planting an Osage orange hedge row, you’ll need to learn about techniques for pruning Osage orange trees. The tree’s thorns present special pruning issues.
Osage Orange Hedges
Barbed wire wasn’t invented until the 1880’s. Before then, many people planted a row of Osage orange as a living fence or hedge. Osage orange hedges were planted close together – no more than five feet – and pruned aggressively to encourage bushy growth. Osage orange hedges worked well for cowboys. The hedge plants were tall enough that horses wouldn’t jump over them, strong enough to prevent cattle from pushing through and so dense and thorny that even hogs were kept from passing between the branches.
Pruning Osage Orange Trees
Osage orange pruning is not easy. The tree is a relative of the mulberry, but its branches are covered with tough thorns. Some thornless cultivars are currently available in commerce, however. While the thorns have given the tree its reputation as a good plant for a defensive hedge, using Osage orange as a living fence requires regular interaction with thorns so strong that they can easily flatten a tractor tire. Don’t forget to put on heavy gloves, long sleeves and full-length pants in order to protect your skin from the thorns. This also acts as protection against the milky sap that can irritate your skin.
Osage Orange Pruning
Without pruning, Osage orange trees grow in dense thickets as multi-stemmed shrubs. Annual pruning is recommended. When you first plant an Osage orange hedge row, prune the trees every year in order to help them to develop a strong structure. Prune out competing leaders, retaining only one strong, upright branch with evenly-spaced scaffold branches.
You’ll also want to remove dead or damaged branches every year. Prune out branches that rub against each other as well. Don’t neglect to trim away new sprouts growing out of the base of the tree.
Osage Orange Hedges
Barbed wire wasn’t invented until the 1880’s. Before then, many people planted a row of Osage orange as a living fence or hedge. Osage orange hedges were planted close together – no more than five feet – and pruned aggressively to encourage bushy growth. Osage orange hedges worked well for cowboys. The hedge plants were tall enough that horses wouldn’t jump over them, strong enough to prevent cattle from pushing through and so dense and thorny that even hogs were kept from passing between the branches.
Pruning Osage Orange Trees
Osage orange pruning is not easy. The tree is a relative of the mulberry, but its branches are covered with tough thorns. Some thornless cultivars are currently available in commerce, however. While the thorns have given the tree its reputation as a good plant for a defensive hedge, using Osage orange as a living fence requires regular interaction with thorns so strong that they can easily flatten a tractor tire. Don’t forget to put on heavy gloves, long sleeves and full-length pants in order to protect your skin from the thorns. This also acts as protection against the milky sap that can irritate your skin.
Osage Orange Pruning
Without pruning, Osage orange trees grow in dense thickets as multi-stemmed shrubs. Annual pruning is recommended. When you first plant an Osage orange hedge row, prune the trees every year in order to help them to develop a strong structure. Prune out competing leaders, retaining only one strong, upright branch with evenly-spaced scaffold branches.
You’ll also want to remove dead or damaged branches every year. Prune out branches that rub against each other as well. Don’t neglect to trim away new sprouts growing out of the base of the tree.
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nita618：I have one of these trees in my yard and I know nothing about it. it was on the property when we moved in and now it is growing very big and wild. When is best to prune and is it okay to cut off some of the big healthy branches?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
It’s a beautiful thing when a landscape comes together, even if it takes many years for your plants to mature into your dream garden. Sadly, many problems can interfere with gardening goals, including oak wilt disease, a serious fungal disease of oak trees. In some areas, oak wilt is becoming endemic, affecting both young and mature oak trees. Read on to learn about this important disease of oaks.
What is Oak Wilt?
Oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees, caused by the fungal pathogen Ceratocystis fagacearum, which is believed to be native. It can be spread by boring beetles or through root-to-root contact between trees. The fungus grows in the transport tissues of infected trees, making it highly communicable between trees that are sharing connections in their root systems. Red and black oaks are considered highly susceptible to oak wilt, and may die completely within four months of initial infection. White oaks are more tolerant, often displaying only vague symptoms of oak wilt disease, if they show any at all. These oaks also eventually succumb to oak wilt, but may linger up to seven years.
How to Diagnose Oak Wilt
Oak wilt disease can be difficult to diagnose without professional help because the symptoms are similar to those found in other diseases, such as anthracnose, boring beetles, lightening damage and a myriad of environmental stressors. If your tree is suddenly showing yellowing or browning of the leaves of entire branches and is shedding leaves with significant areas of green remaining, it’s a good idea to cut a wilted branch or two across the grain. Dark circles in the otherwise lighter inner tissues are a good indicator that you need help, and fast.
Oak wilt treatment and prevention is serious business, requiring the use of heavy equipment to break your tree’s connection to any other oaks within 50 feet. Fungicidal injections of propiconazole have shown some promise in uninfected trees in high risk areas, but this treatment will do little for trees with oak wilt fungus in their root systems.
Minimize the risk to your tree from beetle-spread oak wilt spores by pruning only during the winter and painting all wounds with a latex paint as soon as they happen. Bark beetles often find damaged trees within the first three days, attracted by the scent of fresh sap – your timing is vital. Oak wilt is bad enough, but the addition of bark beetles may create a situation that’s hopeless for your tree.
What is Oak Wilt?
Oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees, caused by the fungal pathogen Ceratocystis fagacearum, which is believed to be native. It can be spread by boring beetles or through root-to-root contact between trees. The fungus grows in the transport tissues of infected trees, making it highly communicable between trees that are sharing connections in their root systems. Red and black oaks are considered highly susceptible to oak wilt, and may die completely within four months of initial infection. White oaks are more tolerant, often displaying only vague symptoms of oak wilt disease, if they show any at all. These oaks also eventually succumb to oak wilt, but may linger up to seven years.
How to Diagnose Oak Wilt
Oak wilt disease can be difficult to diagnose without professional help because the symptoms are similar to those found in other diseases, such as anthracnose, boring beetles, lightening damage and a myriad of environmental stressors. If your tree is suddenly showing yellowing or browning of the leaves of entire branches and is shedding leaves with significant areas of green remaining, it’s a good idea to cut a wilted branch or two across the grain. Dark circles in the otherwise lighter inner tissues are a good indicator that you need help, and fast.
Oak wilt treatment and prevention is serious business, requiring the use of heavy equipment to break your tree’s connection to any other oaks within 50 feet. Fungicidal injections of propiconazole have shown some promise in uninfected trees in high risk areas, but this treatment will do little for trees with oak wilt fungus in their root systems.
Minimize the risk to your tree from beetle-spread oak wilt spores by pruning only during the winter and painting all wounds with a latex paint as soon as they happen. Bark beetles often find damaged trees within the first three days, attracted by the scent of fresh sap – your timing is vital. Oak wilt is bad enough, but the addition of bark beetles may create a situation that’s hopeless for your tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
If you are seeking a beautiful medium to large sized maple tree, look no further than the Norway maple. This lovely plant is native to Europe and western Asia, and has become naturalized in some areas of North America. In some regions, growing a Norway maple tree can be a problem where it self-seeds and displaces other native vegetation. With good care and careful management, however, this tree can be a good shade or standalone specimen. Learn how to grow Norway maple trees and enjoy their ornamental classic look and ease of care.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
Norway Maple Tree Info
Maple trees are classics of the landscape genre. Norway maple (Acer platanoides) has made its own place in the culture and is a common shade tree that resembles sugar maples. The plant has several seasons of interest and retains a compact crown and dense growth. Norway maple has high tolerance to pollution and is adaptable to many soils including clay, sand or acidic conditions. This elegant tree is a useful addition to the landscape, provided some care is taken to minimize seedlings, which are rampant the following season.
The Norway maple was introduced by John Bartram to Philadelphia in 1756. It quickly became a popular shade tree due to its adaptability and attractive form. However, in some areas of the United States, it has begun to replace native populations of maples and may be invasive from the northeastern U.S. south to Tennessee and Virginia. It is also a plant of concern in the Pacific Northwest.
Trees can grow up to 90 feet in height and have nicely rounded, compact crowns. Young trees have smooth bark, which becomes black and furrowed with age. The fall color is bright gold but one of the types of Norway maple trees, Crimson King, develops deep reddish fall tones. One of the important items of Norway maple tree info is regarding its root system. Roots can become a hazard due to the huge number of surface roots the plant produces.
How to Grow Norway Maple Trees
Acer platanoides is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 7. This remarkably adaptable tree performs well in either full sun or partial shade. While it prefers well drained, moist soil, it is drought tolerant for short periods of time, although some leaf drop may occur. Growing a Norway maple tree may require some training when the tree is young to help it develop a good strong central leader and stout scaffold. Plants transplant easily with little effect on the root system or foliage. Norway maple has good resistance to storm and ice damage and has a vigorous growth rate. These trees, if carefully managed, can quickly become attractive focal points of the shade garden.
Norway Maple Tree Care
One of the highlights of Norway maple tree care is managing the samaras, or seed fruits. These winged fruits can catch the wind and navigate far away from the parent tree. They germinate readily and can become an issue in rural settings or near native woods. Pruning at the end of the season, just before the samaras turn brown, can prevent wild seedlings from becoming a pest.
Other management is limited to supplemental watering in hot summers, once a year fertilizing with a good balanced food in early spring, and removing any damaged or diseased wood. These trees have few of the classic maple issues and are quite fine if left alone most of the time. While this adds to their popularity, caution should be observed in some regions where the plant is considered invasive.
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