文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
One of the beautiful features of hostas are their rich green leaves. When you find your hosta plant leaves turning yellow, you know something is wrong. Yellowing leaves on hosta doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but it is definitely time to investigate. The problem could be anything from too much sun to incurable diseases. If you want to find out why hosta leaves turn yellow, read on.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Coleus is a fantastic plant for adding color to your garden or house. A member of the mint family, it’s not known for its flowers, but for its beautiful and vibrantly colored leaves. On top of that, it’s extremely well suited to growing in containers. But how do you grow coleus in pots? Keep reading to learn about potted coleus care and how to grow coleus in containers.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Ajuga is one of those perennials that is as adaptive as it is entrancing. The low-growing rosettes boast beautiful foliage and spikes of eye-catching flowers in spring. Most varieties are runners which spread by stolons. It makes an excellent groundcover, but can you plant ajuga in pots? The attractive leaves and spreading nature of the plant perform as bright colored fillers in containers and may even be evergreen in many zones. Growing ajuga in containers provides long lasting texture and a foil for many other blooming or foliage plants.
Can You Plant Ajuga in Pots?
One of my go-to plants for containers or garden beds is ajuga. It is hardy, unfussy, brilliantly colored and gives more and more plants each season. Container grown ajuga is just as useful and perks up a pot when other plants have yet to bloom or have died back. The lively color and jaunty little flowers can grow in either shade or sun, providing many options for containers in any situation.
Gardeners with a love for ajuga in the garden will be delighted to know the plants do well in confined containers as well. Even the runner types will thrive in a well-drained medium with plenty of organic material. The pop of color and low growth habit are perfect for green leafy specimens and blooming perennials that haven’t flowered yet. Once your container is in full flower, ajuga doesn’t compete with other plants’ brilliance. Instead, it enhances the tones and textures that are coming into their own as spring progresses into summer. Spring is the best time for ajuga planting in pots but in temperate regions you can also create a container garden with the plant in fall.
Planting Ideas for Ajuga in Containers
Ajuga plants come with foliage of purple or green tinged with maroon, bronze, variegated pink, green, white and even silver-green. Most have blue flowers but a few have pink blooms. The rainbow nature of the plant ensures there is a variety for every container need. The most common are the purple-maroon leafed cultivars with bright blue spring flower spikes. Try growing ajuga in containers with summer perennials like:
Yarrow
Campanula
Coreopsis
Geraniums
Primroses
A complete foliage container is a spectacle of texture and hues if you combine ajuga with any of the following:
Heuchera
Ferns
Hosta
Pulmonaria
Ajuga is fairly resistant to dry conditions once established and can also be used with more arid loving plants like:
Hens and chicks
Sedum
Creeping thyme
Thrift
Because container grown ajuga can tolerate shade conditions, a container comprised of hosta, houittuynia, and brunnera will provide low light containers that capture any stray sunbeam and transform into a kaleidoscope of color and infectious foliage texture.
How to Care for Potted Ajuga Plants
There are few special rules for ajuga planting in pots. You do need to know how to care for potted ajuga plants during winter and what is expected regarding water and fertilizer. In combined container settings, try to plant specimens that match ajuga’s cultural preferences. The plant needs consistent moisture until established. It can tolerate either full sun or total shade. Feed the plants twice per year, beginning in early spring and again two months later. Remove runners if you wish and plant them in other containers or in the ground.
Flower spikes may be cut off when they are spent or leave them, as the dried spires have some architectural interest. In the winter, mulch around the root zone of ajuga to protect it from cold snaps, which are more severely felt in unsheltered containers. Pull away the mulch in late winter to early spring so new foliage and rosettes can easily grow. Ajuga is an uncomplicated plant with many uses and years of resilient beauty.
Can You Plant Ajuga in Pots?
One of my go-to plants for containers or garden beds is ajuga. It is hardy, unfussy, brilliantly colored and gives more and more plants each season. Container grown ajuga is just as useful and perks up a pot when other plants have yet to bloom or have died back. The lively color and jaunty little flowers can grow in either shade or sun, providing many options for containers in any situation.
Gardeners with a love for ajuga in the garden will be delighted to know the plants do well in confined containers as well. Even the runner types will thrive in a well-drained medium with plenty of organic material. The pop of color and low growth habit are perfect for green leafy specimens and blooming perennials that haven’t flowered yet. Once your container is in full flower, ajuga doesn’t compete with other plants’ brilliance. Instead, it enhances the tones and textures that are coming into their own as spring progresses into summer. Spring is the best time for ajuga planting in pots but in temperate regions you can also create a container garden with the plant in fall.
Planting Ideas for Ajuga in Containers
Ajuga plants come with foliage of purple or green tinged with maroon, bronze, variegated pink, green, white and even silver-green. Most have blue flowers but a few have pink blooms. The rainbow nature of the plant ensures there is a variety for every container need. The most common are the purple-maroon leafed cultivars with bright blue spring flower spikes. Try growing ajuga in containers with summer perennials like:
Yarrow
Campanula
Coreopsis
Geraniums
Primroses
A complete foliage container is a spectacle of texture and hues if you combine ajuga with any of the following:
Heuchera
Ferns
Hosta
Pulmonaria
Ajuga is fairly resistant to dry conditions once established and can also be used with more arid loving plants like:
Hens and chicks
Sedum
Creeping thyme
Thrift
Because container grown ajuga can tolerate shade conditions, a container comprised of hosta, houittuynia, and brunnera will provide low light containers that capture any stray sunbeam and transform into a kaleidoscope of color and infectious foliage texture.
How to Care for Potted Ajuga Plants
There are few special rules for ajuga planting in pots. You do need to know how to care for potted ajuga plants during winter and what is expected regarding water and fertilizer. In combined container settings, try to plant specimens that match ajuga’s cultural preferences. The plant needs consistent moisture until established. It can tolerate either full sun or total shade. Feed the plants twice per year, beginning in early spring and again two months later. Remove runners if you wish and plant them in other containers or in the ground.
Flower spikes may be cut off when they are spent or leave them, as the dried spires have some architectural interest. In the winter, mulch around the root zone of ajuga to protect it from cold snaps, which are more severely felt in unsheltered containers. Pull away the mulch in late winter to early spring so new foliage and rosettes can easily grow. Ajuga is an uncomplicated plant with many uses and years of resilient beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
There’s nothing as annoying in the garden pond as watermeal. This tiny, loathsome plant can quickly take over, ruining your beautiful landscape and forcing yet another manual cleaning of your pond to clear it up. Learn some easier ways to manage watermeal weeds long term in this informative article.
What is Watermeal?
Experienced garden pond owners shutter when the name is uttered because watermeal in ponds is big trouble for the backyard gardener. This aquatic weed can be a serious pain, but watermeal in ponds doesn’t have to mean draining your pond, yet again, to kill it back. There are several methods of effective watermeal control that work against the plant’s basic biology.
Watermeal (Wolffia spp.) are holds the unique position as the world’s smallest flowering plant, but it’s also one of the world’s most annoying pond weeds. This 1 to 1 1/2 millimeter long, grain-like plant is commonly found embedded among colonies of duckweed, where it’s barely visible to the naked eye. If you dip your hand into the pond, remove some of the duckweed and rub it between your palms, you’ll feel a grainy sensation – that’s the watermeal. It can occur on its own, but this is a much less common situation. Watermeal removal is most effective with a two-fold approach that includes eliminating the material that the watermeal is feeding on and employing pond creatures to feed upon the weed itself. Prevention is a much easier process than control, but both require the same tactics. Once watermeal is choking the pond, it may be much easier to drain the pond and clean it completely before implementing protective measures.
Controlling Watermeal Weeds
Watermeal feeds greedily off of rotting material on the bottom of your pond. This black sludge may not look like much to you, but for watermeal, it’s a veritable buffet. Any program of watermeal control has to include management of that build-up, so if there’s fertilizer or agricultural run-off moving into your pond, or the leaves from the tree above end up in your pond every year, the first step is to slow this input. Surface netting can help trap leaves, or you can fish them out of the pond daily with a pool net. Run-off may be slowed by building an earth berm around the pond. Once the addition of nutrients is managed, it’s a good idea to add a bubble aerator to the deepest area in the bottom of your pond to eliminate the stratification. The lack of oxygen in deeper waters can make it hard for bacteria to break down whatever waste does accumulate. By adding a bubbler, you’ll increase oxygen and pond circulation so that your pond plankton can consume the excess nutrients before watermeal has a chance to set in.
While the watermeal is at least somewhat controlled, you’ll want to introduce pond fish that eat this plant, like koi or grass carp. Koi will eat watermeal readily, while grass carp may eat other plants first. Another option is to add a couple of ducks to the landscape. They’ll readily gobble up this annoying plant pest as long as it’s kept reasonably in check by other methods.
What is Watermeal?
Experienced garden pond owners shutter when the name is uttered because watermeal in ponds is big trouble for the backyard gardener. This aquatic weed can be a serious pain, but watermeal in ponds doesn’t have to mean draining your pond, yet again, to kill it back. There are several methods of effective watermeal control that work against the plant’s basic biology.
Watermeal (Wolffia spp.) are holds the unique position as the world’s smallest flowering plant, but it’s also one of the world’s most annoying pond weeds. This 1 to 1 1/2 millimeter long, grain-like plant is commonly found embedded among colonies of duckweed, where it’s barely visible to the naked eye. If you dip your hand into the pond, remove some of the duckweed and rub it between your palms, you’ll feel a grainy sensation – that’s the watermeal. It can occur on its own, but this is a much less common situation. Watermeal removal is most effective with a two-fold approach that includes eliminating the material that the watermeal is feeding on and employing pond creatures to feed upon the weed itself. Prevention is a much easier process than control, but both require the same tactics. Once watermeal is choking the pond, it may be much easier to drain the pond and clean it completely before implementing protective measures.
Controlling Watermeal Weeds
Watermeal feeds greedily off of rotting material on the bottom of your pond. This black sludge may not look like much to you, but for watermeal, it’s a veritable buffet. Any program of watermeal control has to include management of that build-up, so if there’s fertilizer or agricultural run-off moving into your pond, or the leaves from the tree above end up in your pond every year, the first step is to slow this input. Surface netting can help trap leaves, or you can fish them out of the pond daily with a pool net. Run-off may be slowed by building an earth berm around the pond. Once the addition of nutrients is managed, it’s a good idea to add a bubble aerator to the deepest area in the bottom of your pond to eliminate the stratification. The lack of oxygen in deeper waters can make it hard for bacteria to break down whatever waste does accumulate. By adding a bubbler, you’ll increase oxygen and pond circulation so that your pond plankton can consume the excess nutrients before watermeal has a chance to set in.
While the watermeal is at least somewhat controlled, you’ll want to introduce pond fish that eat this plant, like koi or grass carp. Koi will eat watermeal readily, while grass carp may eat other plants first. Another option is to add a couple of ducks to the landscape. They’ll readily gobble up this annoying plant pest as long as it’s kept reasonably in check by other methods.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Beautiful but destructive in the wrong environment, water hyacinths (Eichhornia crassipes) are among the showiest of water garden plants. Flower stalks that grow about six inches above the foliage arise from the centers of the rosettes in spring, and by the end of spring, each plant holds as many as 20 gorgeous purple flowers. The flowers last until fall and make striking cut flowers.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The garden offers us a variety of beautiful plants to pick and choose between. Many are selected because of their prolific fruit production, while others attract us with insurmountable beauty. Water hyacinth is one of those plants that is deceptively gorgeous, delivering a serious payload to anyone unlucky enough to plant them in warm climates. Water hyacinth in ponds seems like a great idea when you plant them, but it won’t be long before you need major help.
Is Water Hyacinth Invasive?
Although the brilliant purple water hyacinth isn’t yet federally listed as a noxious weed, plant and waterway experts the world over agree: this plant is bad news. The plant was initially spread because of its beautiful flowers, but the mistake of this particular decision was soon realized – after the damage couldn’t be undone. Now, water hyacinth threatens dams, waterways and wildlife across the globe, often forming dense mats so thick that a grown man can walk across them. So while it’s not legally considered invasive, water hyacinth control occupies a great deal of time in the minds of experts everywhere. These people would tell you that it’s only a matter of time before this plant is listed and regulated because of its aggressive nature.
How to Control Water Hyacinth
If you’ve already been drawn in by the siren song of the water hyacinth, or a former owner of your property fell hard for this plant, you know the sheer determination it can exhibit. Managing water hyacinths is no small feat, but you can rid your garden ponds of these plants for good. The most effective methods so far found to control these plants include draining ponds completely, then removing and chopping up the plant (away from the pond, as even a small piece can regrow into new water hyacinths). Water hyacinth can then be composted, provided your compost pile is far from any water sources that could be affected by runoff, or double-bagged and thrown in the trash.
It may take several tries to rid your pond completely of water hyacinth, due to its weed-like behavior. If you’ve tried simply pulling this plant out of your pond in the past, without draining or cleaning the pond and equipment thoroughly, you’ve probably convinced yourself nothing will kill water hyacinth. However, by using an aggressive combination approach, you should be rid of your water hyacinth in no time.
Is Water Hyacinth Invasive?
Although the brilliant purple water hyacinth isn’t yet federally listed as a noxious weed, plant and waterway experts the world over agree: this plant is bad news. The plant was initially spread because of its beautiful flowers, but the mistake of this particular decision was soon realized – after the damage couldn’t be undone. Now, water hyacinth threatens dams, waterways and wildlife across the globe, often forming dense mats so thick that a grown man can walk across them. So while it’s not legally considered invasive, water hyacinth control occupies a great deal of time in the minds of experts everywhere. These people would tell you that it’s only a matter of time before this plant is listed and regulated because of its aggressive nature.
How to Control Water Hyacinth
If you’ve already been drawn in by the siren song of the water hyacinth, or a former owner of your property fell hard for this plant, you know the sheer determination it can exhibit. Managing water hyacinths is no small feat, but you can rid your garden ponds of these plants for good. The most effective methods so far found to control these plants include draining ponds completely, then removing and chopping up the plant (away from the pond, as even a small piece can regrow into new water hyacinths). Water hyacinth can then be composted, provided your compost pile is far from any water sources that could be affected by runoff, or double-bagged and thrown in the trash.
It may take several tries to rid your pond completely of water hyacinth, due to its weed-like behavior. If you’ve tried simply pulling this plant out of your pond in the past, without draining or cleaning the pond and equipment thoroughly, you’ve probably convinced yourself nothing will kill water hyacinth. However, by using an aggressive combination approach, you should be rid of your water hyacinth in no time.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Apple mint (Mentha suaveolens) is a lovely, aromatic plant that can rapidly become obnoxious if not contained. When kept confined, this is a beautiful herb with many fantastic culinary, medicinal and decorative properties. Let’s learn more about how to grow an apple mint herb plant.
About Apple Mint Plants
Europeans introduced this member of the mint family to America where it has been embraced as a garden plant including many cultivars. Reaching about 2 feet at maturity, apple mint plants have woolly stems, fragrant serrated leaves and terminal spikes that bear white or light pink flowers beginning in late summer or early fall.
How to Grow an Apple Mint Herb
Apple mint, known endearingly by some as the “fuzzy mint” or “woolly mint” can be planted from seed or plant and it propagates easily by cuttings. Since apple mint can be invasive, it is wise to consider confining the plants to a container. You can put the plant in a container and then bury the container. Rich soil that drains well and has a pH of 6.0. to 7.0 is best. If spreading is not an issue, you can plant directly into the ground. This mint likes full to part shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Consider planting apple mint alongside cabbage, peas, tomatoes and broccoli to improve their flavor.
Apple Mint Care
Provide water for early plants and during times of drought. Caring for established apple mint is not overly taxing. Large areas can be easily mowed to keep under control. Smaller plots or containers are healthiest if cut back a few times each season. In the fall, cut back all apple mint to the ground and cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch where winters are harsh.
Apple Mint Uses
Growing apple mint is a lot of fun, as you can do so many things with it. Bruised apple mint leaves added to a pitcher of ice water with lemon make the perfect “afternoon in the shade” summer treat. Dried apple mint leaves are a delicious warm tea that is perfect for cooler weather. For drying, harvest the leaves when they are fresh by cutting the stalks just before they bloom. Hang the stalks to dry and store them in airtight containers. Use fresh leaves as a pretty and fragrant dessert topping, as salad additions or to make tasty apple mint dressings.
About Apple Mint Plants
Europeans introduced this member of the mint family to America where it has been embraced as a garden plant including many cultivars. Reaching about 2 feet at maturity, apple mint plants have woolly stems, fragrant serrated leaves and terminal spikes that bear white or light pink flowers beginning in late summer or early fall.
How to Grow an Apple Mint Herb
Apple mint, known endearingly by some as the “fuzzy mint” or “woolly mint” can be planted from seed or plant and it propagates easily by cuttings. Since apple mint can be invasive, it is wise to consider confining the plants to a container. You can put the plant in a container and then bury the container. Rich soil that drains well and has a pH of 6.0. to 7.0 is best. If spreading is not an issue, you can plant directly into the ground. This mint likes full to part shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Consider planting apple mint alongside cabbage, peas, tomatoes and broccoli to improve their flavor.
Apple Mint Care
Provide water for early plants and during times of drought. Caring for established apple mint is not overly taxing. Large areas can be easily mowed to keep under control. Smaller plots or containers are healthiest if cut back a few times each season. In the fall, cut back all apple mint to the ground and cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch where winters are harsh.
Apple Mint Uses
Growing apple mint is a lot of fun, as you can do so many things with it. Bruised apple mint leaves added to a pitcher of ice water with lemon make the perfect “afternoon in the shade” summer treat. Dried apple mint leaves are a delicious warm tea that is perfect for cooler weather. For drying, harvest the leaves when they are fresh by cutting the stalks just before they bloom. Hang the stalks to dry and store them in airtight containers. Use fresh leaves as a pretty and fragrant dessert topping, as salad additions or to make tasty apple mint dressings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Herbs are the perfect plants to grow in containers, and dill is no exception. It’s beautiful, it’s tasty, and in late summer it produces fantastic yellow flowers. Having it in a container near or even in your kitchen is a great way to ensure you get the most out of cooking with it. But how do you grow potted dill plants? Keep reading to learn more about growing dill in containers and care of dill in pots.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Evergreen rosemary is an attractive evergreen shrub with needle-like leaves and brilliant blue flowers. The flowers of evergreen rosemary persist through spring and summer, filling the air with a nice piney fragrance. This beautiful herb, mostly used for seasoning dishes, is also commonly used as ornamental plantings in the landscape. The scientific name for rosemary plant is Rosmarinus officinalis, which translates to “mist of the sea,” as its gray-green foliage is thought to resemble mist against the sea cliffs of the Mediterranean, where the plant originates.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
Evergreen Rosemary Plant Care
Rosemary plant care is easy. When growing rosemary plants, provide them with well-drained, sandy soil and at least six to eight hours of sunlight. These plants thrive in warm, humid environments and cannot take extremely cold temperatures. Since rosemary cannot withstand winters below 30 F. (-1C.), it’s often better when growing rosemary plants to put them in containers, which can be placed in ground and easily moved indoors during winter. Rosemary prefers to remain somewhat on the dry side; therefore, terra cotta pots are a good choice when selecting suitable containers. These pots allow the plant to dry out faster. Thoroughly water rosemary plants when the soil is dry to the touch but allow the plants to dry out between watering intervals. Even indoors, rosemary plants will require lots of light, at least six hours, so place the plant in a suitable location free of drafts.
Trimming Rosemary
Pruning rosemary will help make a bushier plant. Most herbs thrive on being trimmed every now and then, especially those used for flavorings. Snip sprigs just as you would when cutting back a houseplant, trimming rosemary once blooming has ceased. The general rule for trimming rosemary is not to take more than one-third of the plant at any time and make cuts just above a leaf joint. These can then be dried like any other herb by hanging tied bundles upside down in a cool, dry place.
Evergreen Rosemary Propagation
Rosemary plants are usually propagated by cuttings, as it can be tricky getting evergreen rosemary seeds to germinate. Successfully growing rosemary plants from seeds comes only when the seeds are very fresh and when planted in optimum growing conditions. Start new rosemary plants with cuttings from existing evergreen plants. Cut stems that are about 2 inches long and remove leaves on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. Place the cuttings in a mixture of perlite and peat moss, spraying with water until roots begin to grow. Once roots have developed, you can plant the cuttings as you would with any rosemary plant. Rosemary plants are prone to becoming root bound and should be repotted at least once a year. Yellowing of the lower foliage is an early indication that it’s time to repot.
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Penney
2017年08月23日
So excited !! Moved bolder plant to larger pot and wow! It was happy, it started to get another set of bolders and then all of a sudden BAM! A beautiful flower !! Does anyone know the botanical name? Thnx
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Ueca：It is most likely in the genus Cheiridopsis but I can't ascertain the species.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While not a conventionally beautiful plant, angelica attracts attention in the garden because of its imposing nature. The individual purple or flowers are quite small, but they bloom in large clusters similar to Queen Anne’s lace, creating a striking display. Propagating angelica plants is a great way to enjoy them in the garden. Angelica is best grown in groups with other large plants. It combines well with ornamental grasses, large dahlias and giant alliums. When attempting angelica propagation, you should be aware that growing angelica cuttings is difficult because the stems usually fail to root. Instead, start new plants from angelica seeds or divisions of two- or three-year-old plants. The plants bloom every other year, so plant angelica in two consecutive years for a constant supply of flowers.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds before they fall to the ground. Use peat or fiber pots so that you won’t have to disturb the sensitive roots when you transplant the seedlings into the garden. Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings will germinate. After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot, clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle. Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the seeds will germinate in spring. Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these plants each year.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds before they fall to the ground. Use peat or fiber pots so that you won’t have to disturb the sensitive roots when you transplant the seedlings into the garden. Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings will germinate. After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot, clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle. Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the seeds will germinate in spring. Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these plants each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’ve grown a rubber tree plant (Ficus elastica), especially the burgundy type, and noticed what appears to be a beautiful flower unfurling, you might begin to wonder if rubber plant blooms or if this is your imagination. Find out in this article.
Does Rubber Plant Flower?
Yes, rubber plant is capable of producing flowers and, subsequently, small fruits. It is a species of fig, after all, related to the figs that are grown commercially to produce the filling in your Newtons. But popular houseplant species such as rubber trees and their cousins, the weeping figs (Ficus benjamina), rarely bloom or yield fruits. Actual rubber plant blooms are small, greenish and insignificant; they also are unlikely to occur on a rubber plant growing indoors in a container or even one growing outdoors in warm temperate to semi-tropical conditions.
What is the Red Sheath on Ficus?
As colorful as any flower, the red sheath on ficus may be an eye-catching addition to gardens indoors or out, but it is not a blossom or even the beginning of rubber plant blooms. Truth be told, a flowering rubber tree plant would be less likely to attract attention than one in the process of putting forth new growth that emerges from a burgundy to bright red sheath on ficus. The red sheath on ficus develops when a plant is actively growing and putting forth new leaves, most typically in spring and summer on healthy plants. Not all varieties of rubber plant wrap their developing foliage in red, but widely available cultivars such as ‘Rubra’ and ‘Burgundy’ produce their new growth from a bright to deep red sheath and also have reddish leaf veins and stems. After a new leaf emerges, the sheath typically turns brown and shrivels up.
Whatever the predominant color(s) of your rubber plant’s foliage—cultivars with white, pink, cream, and gold variegation are available, too—keep it looking its best by following a few simple guidelines:
Give it a spot where it receives bright, indirect light. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust from the broad smooth surfaces. Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season but avoid overwatering that will cause the leaves to drop. During the fall and winter, allow the upper inch of growing medium to dry out between waterings.
Rubber plants require good drainage but are otherwise easy-to-grow, attractive foliage plants. You may not have a flowering rubber tree plant, but you can enjoy rubber tree’s colorful foliage for years with just a modest amount of care.
Does Rubber Plant Flower?
Yes, rubber plant is capable of producing flowers and, subsequently, small fruits. It is a species of fig, after all, related to the figs that are grown commercially to produce the filling in your Newtons. But popular houseplant species such as rubber trees and their cousins, the weeping figs (Ficus benjamina), rarely bloom or yield fruits. Actual rubber plant blooms are small, greenish and insignificant; they also are unlikely to occur on a rubber plant growing indoors in a container or even one growing outdoors in warm temperate to semi-tropical conditions.
What is the Red Sheath on Ficus?
As colorful as any flower, the red sheath on ficus may be an eye-catching addition to gardens indoors or out, but it is not a blossom or even the beginning of rubber plant blooms. Truth be told, a flowering rubber tree plant would be less likely to attract attention than one in the process of putting forth new growth that emerges from a burgundy to bright red sheath on ficus. The red sheath on ficus develops when a plant is actively growing and putting forth new leaves, most typically in spring and summer on healthy plants. Not all varieties of rubber plant wrap their developing foliage in red, but widely available cultivars such as ‘Rubra’ and ‘Burgundy’ produce their new growth from a bright to deep red sheath and also have reddish leaf veins and stems. After a new leaf emerges, the sheath typically turns brown and shrivels up.
Whatever the predominant color(s) of your rubber plant’s foliage—cultivars with white, pink, cream, and gold variegation are available, too—keep it looking its best by following a few simple guidelines:
Give it a spot where it receives bright, indirect light. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust from the broad smooth surfaces. Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season but avoid overwatering that will cause the leaves to drop. During the fall and winter, allow the upper inch of growing medium to dry out between waterings.
Rubber plants require good drainage but are otherwise easy-to-grow, attractive foliage plants. You may not have a flowering rubber tree plant, but you can enjoy rubber tree’s colorful foliage for years with just a modest amount of care.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Adding a pitcher plant or three to your garden or interior space adds a touch of the unusual. Beyond being interesting carnivorous specimens, the pitcher plant produces a beautiful bloom as a reward to a gardener who has cared for it well. When your pitcher plant turns yellow or brown, it’s not time to panic; these hardy plants are hard to keep down for long.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
If you have one pitcher plant and you’d like more, you may be thinking of growing pitcher plants from seed taken from its spent blooms. Pitcher plant seed sowing is one of the best ways to reproduce the beautiful plant. But like the seeds of other carnivorous plants, they need special treatment to give them their best chance at growing. Read on for information about how to grow pitcher plants from seed.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are interesting and beautiful carnivorous plants that rely primarily on insect pests for sustenance. Do pitcher plants bloom? They certainly do, and pitcher plant flowers are just as fascinating as the colorful, mysterious pitchers. Read on for more pitcher plant (Sarracenia) flower information. 
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
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