文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) are old-fashioned ferns with beautiful arching fronds. They require adequate sunlight, water and nutrients to thrive, and good cultural practices help keep your fern healthy. If your fern doesn’t get the best care – or even if it does – it may be attacked by Boston fern diseases. Read on to learn more about diseases of Boston fern plants.
Common Boston Fern Problems
If you fail to water your potted fern appropriately, over or under irrigation can lead to unhealthy Boston ferns. Most fern instructions advise you to keep the soil constantly moist. But this is not the same as allowing the soil to be wet or the plant to become water-logged. To avoid issues with Boston ferns, water the plant thoroughly when the top of the soil is dry. Keep watering until it leaks from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not water again until the soil surface is dry. Failure to water sufficiently can lead to graying, one of the most common Boston fern problems. Graying is often the result of drought conditions. You’ll know if your plant has this condition when the leaves turn gray and the plant may seem to stop growing. Increasing irrigation should resolve this.
Although many gardeners consider tropical ferns low-life plants, Boston ferns need adequate light. If they do not get a medium amount of light – at least two hours of indirect light all year round – their fronds become long and pendulous. This is termed weak frond and is resolved by increasing light.
Boston Fern Diseases
If the fronds of your Boston fern turn gray and you’ve been watering properly, the next disease to consider is Pythium root rot. The fronds can also wilt or grow stunted. To confirm root rot, look at the roots of your unhealthy Boston ferns. If they are brown and stunted, it is likely root rot. The best way to prevent a Boston fern from getting root rot is to buy disease-free plants and pathogen free potting soil. You can also check in your garden store for chemicals that control this disease in Boston ferns.
These tips are also appropriate for preventing and treating other Boston fern diseases such as Rhizoctonia aerial blight. In blight, dark lesions develop rapidly on the foliage and roots. Unchecked, the entire plant is eventually covered with the pathogen’s brown web-like mycelium. If you opt to use chemicals to treat this disease, treat the soil as well.
Common Boston Fern Problems
If you fail to water your potted fern appropriately, over or under irrigation can lead to unhealthy Boston ferns. Most fern instructions advise you to keep the soil constantly moist. But this is not the same as allowing the soil to be wet or the plant to become water-logged. To avoid issues with Boston ferns, water the plant thoroughly when the top of the soil is dry. Keep watering until it leaks from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not water again until the soil surface is dry. Failure to water sufficiently can lead to graying, one of the most common Boston fern problems. Graying is often the result of drought conditions. You’ll know if your plant has this condition when the leaves turn gray and the plant may seem to stop growing. Increasing irrigation should resolve this.
Although many gardeners consider tropical ferns low-life plants, Boston ferns need adequate light. If they do not get a medium amount of light – at least two hours of indirect light all year round – their fronds become long and pendulous. This is termed weak frond and is resolved by increasing light.
Boston Fern Diseases
If the fronds of your Boston fern turn gray and you’ve been watering properly, the next disease to consider is Pythium root rot. The fronds can also wilt or grow stunted. To confirm root rot, look at the roots of your unhealthy Boston ferns. If they are brown and stunted, it is likely root rot. The best way to prevent a Boston fern from getting root rot is to buy disease-free plants and pathogen free potting soil. You can also check in your garden store for chemicals that control this disease in Boston ferns.
These tips are also appropriate for preventing and treating other Boston fern diseases such as Rhizoctonia aerial blight. In blight, dark lesions develop rapidly on the foliage and roots. Unchecked, the entire plant is eventually covered with the pathogen’s brown web-like mycelium. If you opt to use chemicals to treat this disease, treat the soil as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
For many rose gardeners, the ultimate goal is to fill the garden with beautiful blooming bushes and the home with cut roses. Keep cut-rose bouquets looking fresh longer by storing cut roses at low temperatures, including in the fridge.
Temperature
Cooler temperatures help cut roses absorb nutrients from the water in the vases, and keep the roses looking fresh and new. Store roses in the refrigerator at temperatures between 32 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit.
Initial Arrangement
Keeping rose bouquets looking fresh begins with preparation: Fill a bucket with lukewarm water, recommends the Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society. Cut rose stems under the water to eliminate air bubbles. Allow roses to soak up the water overnight, then store in the refrigerator for about two hours. This helps prepare roses for display, preventing wilting and keeping blooms open.
Overnight Storage
After arranging roses for display, keep an area in the refrigerator free. Place the rose bouquets in the refrigerator before going to bed at night, and take them out in the morning. This will keep roses looking fresh longer than bouquets left at room temperature around the clock.
Temperature
Cooler temperatures help cut roses absorb nutrients from the water in the vases, and keep the roses looking fresh and new. Store roses in the refrigerator at temperatures between 32 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit.
Initial Arrangement
Keeping rose bouquets looking fresh begins with preparation: Fill a bucket with lukewarm water, recommends the Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society. Cut rose stems under the water to eliminate air bubbles. Allow roses to soak up the water overnight, then store in the refrigerator for about two hours. This helps prepare roses for display, preventing wilting and keeping blooms open.
Overnight Storage
After arranging roses for display, keep an area in the refrigerator free. Place the rose bouquets in the refrigerator before going to bed at night, and take them out in the morning. This will keep roses looking fresh longer than bouquets left at room temperature around the clock.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses, even the beautiful and hardy Knock Out, can sometimes have problems. While most of these issues will not kill the plant, they can cause leaf spots, yellowing, wilting and blight that may make it look like the rose is dying.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Do Alocasia elephant ears have seeds? They do reproduce through seed but it takes years before you will get the big beautiful leaves. Older plants in good conditions will produce a spathe and spadix that will eventually produce seed pods. Elephant ear flower seeds are only viable a short time, so if you want to plant them, harvest the pods and use them as soon as possible.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This is a gorgeous wildflower, and in our opinion the most beautiful of the Cistus species that can be seen in the Mediterranean region.
Identification
Sage-leaved Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is one of the commonest of several types of Cistus that occur in the Mediterranean Region. The beautiful white flowers can occur singly or in groups of up to four. Unlike other Cistus flowers the petals are relatively un-crumpled in appearance.
Distribution
Cistus salviifolius is native to Mediterranean countries including Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy. Its range extends southwards to parts of North Africa and eastwards into parts of Asia.
Habitat
This shrub often forms vast colonies and favours dry, rocky places in the maquis and barrocal.
Etymology
The specific epithet salviifolius (often mis-spelt as salvifolius) means 'with sage leaves' - a reference that the leaves are very similar in appearance to thos of the herb known as sage.
Related species
Along with other Cistus shrubs, Sage-leaved Cistus is parasitised by a strange-looking plant called Cytinus hypocistis,which appears from mid April until June growing on the roots of the bushes.
Identification
Sage-leaved Cistus, a member of the Rockrose family, is one of the commonest of several types of Cistus that occur in the Mediterranean Region. The beautiful white flowers can occur singly or in groups of up to four. Unlike other Cistus flowers the petals are relatively un-crumpled in appearance.
Distribution
Cistus salviifolius is native to Mediterranean countries including Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy. Its range extends southwards to parts of North Africa and eastwards into parts of Asia.
Habitat
This shrub often forms vast colonies and favours dry, rocky places in the maquis and barrocal.
Etymology
The specific epithet salviifolius (often mis-spelt as salvifolius) means 'with sage leaves' - a reference that the leaves are very similar in appearance to thos of the herb known as sage.
Related species
Along with other Cistus shrubs, Sage-leaved Cistus is parasitised by a strange-looking plant called Cytinus hypocistis,which appears from mid April until June growing on the roots of the bushes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
While most cacti are very heat and drought tolerant, Christmas cacti are a little different. They are more like tropical plants than desert plants, so they're not as drought tolerant as the typical cactus. They also keep their beautiful blooms much longer in cooler temperatures. Many gardeners enjoy the challenge of keeping their Christmas cactus healthy throughout the year so they can enjoy their blossoms each Christmas season. This is harder than most would think, but with proper watering and maintenance it's entirely possible to enjoy your Christmas cactus for many Christmases.
There are not strict guidelines as to how often you should water your cactus. Instead, monitor the plant to determine when watering is necessary. According to Purdue University Extension's newsletter, you should, "water thoroughly when the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch." You may also notice the plant beginning to wilt if it goes too long without water. Purdue's Extension Service also notes that, "the length of time between waterings will vary with the air temperature, amount of light, rate of growth and relative humidity."
Transplant
If your cactus dries out often or the flowers seem to wilt frequently, you may need to transplant it into a bigger container, rather than continually water it. To survive and thrive, Christmas cacti must have soil that drains easily. Purdue's newsletter recommends either purchasing potting soil mix for succulents or making your own by, "combining two parts plain potting soil with one part clean sand or vermiculite."
Provide Correct Environment
While properly watering your Christmas cactus is important, it's also important for it to live in the correct environment. For example, keep it away from drafts from fireplaces and heat vents, and place it in a well-lit location. These two things are particularly important if you want your cactus to bloom. Extreme temperature change or drafts can make flower buds fall off the plant before they've even had a chance to open.
Fertilize
In addition to proper watering, to further the likelihood that your Christmas cactus survives throughout the year, you should periodically fertilize it. Purdue's Extension Service recommends to simply use a fertilizer made for blooming houseplants and to follow the directions on the label for how and when to apply it. There is no need to fertilize the plant while it's in bloom.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
New growth on your plants is a promise of blooms, big beautiful leaves or, at the very least, an extended lifespan; but when that new growth is wilting or dying, most gardeners panic, not knowing what to do. Although dying growth on plants of any age is a serious and difficult problem to manage, there are a few things you can try to save your plants before they go belly up. Why New Growth is Dying Well, that’s really the question, isn’t it? The reasons for tender growth dying are numerous, but they can generally be divided into these categories: bugs, vascular disease and root damage. 
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
Pests – When you’re trying to determine how to fix dying growth, bugs are by far the easiest. Tip and twig borers, like those common on many evergreen trees and blueberries, prefer to burrow into the soft tissues at the end of shrubs and trees. Look for tiny holes at the end, or snap some dying tissue off and inspect it for galleries or tunnels. You may never see the tiny beetles responsible, but their telling tunnels and entry holes are evidence enough. Disease – Vascular diseases are caused by fungal and bacterial pathogens that invade the transport tissues of your plants. As these pathogens multiply, they clog the vascular tissues, making it difficult or impossible for some parts of your plant to get nutrients, water and send manufactured food back to the crown.
All this blockage will eventually cause the death of tissues, and tender new growth is usually the most susceptible since it’s the furthest from the roots. Root damage – Root damage is another common cause of dead new growth. Fertilizers are great and so is watering your plant, but there’s such a thing as too much. When this good stuff is in excess, it often leads to root damage. The smallest roots usually die first, but sometimes whole sections of the root system can be killed, especially in the case of excess slow-release fertilizer or fertilizer salt build-up. Fewer roots means fewer nutrients and less water that can be transported, so these valuable materials often doesn’t make it all the way to the tips of the plant once root damage is severe. How to Fix Dying Growth Dying growth can be difficult to cure, no matter the cause. If you’ve got boring beetles, they’ll probably be long gone before your plant starts to show signs of damage and vascular diseases are almost always death sentences, so intervention in either case is usually pointless. Damaged roots, on the other hand, can sometimes be regrown with careful management. If possible, dig your plant and check the roots.
You’ll need to prune out any that are black, brown or feel soft. Increase the drainage for outdoor plants by adding enough compost to fill the rootball’s hole one quarter to one half of the way. Potted plants will need to be flushed, do this by removing their saucers and watering the plant from the top, until the water runs out the bottom. Repeat this four times to remove excess fertilizer salts from the soil. If the soil stays soggy for more than a few minutes, you should consider repotting the plant. Going forward, pay close attention to how often you fertilize and water your plant. Remember, too much is just as bad for them as too little. Water only when the plant’s soil surface feels dry, and fertilize only when the plant appears to need it, such as when the leaves start to lighten in color. Never leave your plant in standing water, as this will only undo the work you’ve done to help save it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Camassia
Camassia is a perfect plant for extending the spring bulb season. It produces spires of beautiful purple or blue flowers in late spring and early summer -- right alongside favorites such as allium, peony, and iris. There are a handful of varieties available; give your garden a boost by selecting one with variegated foliage.
Camassia does best in full sun or part shade in moist soil. In fact, it tolerates clay and wet conditions better than most other spring bulbs. Camassia is native to areas of North America.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:From 1 to 8 feet
WIDTH:To 1 foot wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Cut Flowers, Good for Containers
ZONES:3-10
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Gladiolus comprises 260 species, 250 of which are native to sub-Saharan Africa, mostly South Africa. About 10 species are native to Eurasia. The impressive flower spikes of Gladioli come in a wide array of beautiful colors.
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cherry Blossoms are some of the most beautiful flowers, coming in bright colors. The Cherry Blossom tree in full bloom, during the arrival of spring, is one of the most beautiful sights to behold.
The Cherry Blossom is so popular that festivals are celebrated in its honor- the Cherry Blossom Festival, celebrated in the months of March and April.
The Cherry Blossom is Japan's unofficial National Flower. Somei Yoshino is a favorite Cherry Blossom variety of the Japanese. The flowers are almost pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem.
The Somei Yoshino Cherry Blossoms bloom, and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. The trees, thus look nearly white from top to bottom. Other Cherry Blossom varieties include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura Cherry Blossom have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals.
The shidarezakura Cherry Blossom, or weeping Cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
The Japanese Cherry starts flowering profusely from the first warmer days in April, heralding the coming of spring. The pink or white flowers grow in racemose clusters at nodes on short spurs. They are past flowering early in May.
The Cherries can be divided into three groups - the European, the American, and the Oriental. In general, the Oriental types (Prunus serrulata) are less hardy. This genus - Prunus comprises over 400 species and numerous cultivars of trees and shrubs growing in temperate climates mostly in the Northern Hemisphere.
It includes evergreen shrubs, flowering fruit trees, and all the stone fruits - almonds, apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and prunes. They are also very ornamental.
The National Cherry Blossom Festival is an annual celebration in Washington, D.C., commemorating the March 27, 1912, gift to the city of 3,000 Japanese cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo to strengthen the growing friendship between the United States and Japan. Cherry Blossoms are rooted deep in the culture of Japan and were used in ancient Japan to forecast how crops for the coming year would do. Modern Japan still celebrates Hanami - gatherings of friends to picnic under a canopy of Cherry Blossoms, enjoying the brief burst of the beauty of nature and springtime. Through the centuries, the Japanese have developed many different varieties of the Cherry tree. All of these trees bloom for a short time with pink or white flowers. Cherries are part of the rose family and like roses, most cherry trees bloom during the spring. A few varieties are grown to flower later and actually show their blossoms in autumn or even during winter! Normally, it is just a week to ten days before all of the blossoms are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cherry Blossoms
Cherries are propagated by budding them on seedling stocks in the nursery and are sold for planting stock as one or two-year-old trees. Sweet and Sour Cherries are fairly easy to grow. Sour Cherries, which are smaller and more tolerant of cold and heat, are easier to grow than sweet Cherries.
Sour cherries are self-pollinating so you don't have to plant two kinds. Sour Cherries also bloom later, which makes them less vulnerable to harm from late spring frosts.
Because of the fact that Cherry Blossom trees bloom early in spring and are susceptible to damage from late spring frosts, the site for growing Cherries should be slightly higher and sloped than the surrounding ground to prevent frosty air from settling in the low spots.
Cherry Blossom trees should be placed in a sheltered location with full sun, in soil that is deep, fertile and moist, but well drained.
Full sun exposure for Cherry Blossom trees is necessary to produce delicious Cherries and strong trees.
Cherry Blossom trees grown in shade will produce spindly branches and fewer cherries that are less sweet.
Sweet and sour Cherries are susceptible to most of the same problems.
Cherry Blossom Plant Care
Maintaining a clean surrounding is very important to keep pest and disease problems down for Cherry Blossom trees.
Bird problems on Cherry Blossom trees can be prevented by planting your trees near people or pets and by netting.
Diseased fruit, leaves, and prunings on Cherry Blossom trees should be removed immediately and either burned to kill insect larvae and disease spores or destroyed in a hot compost pile.
Some common problems seen in Cherry Blossom trees are Plum curculio, Brown rot, cherry fruit flies, cherry leaf spot and bacterial canker.
The Cherry Blossom is so popular that festivals are celebrated in its honor- the Cherry Blossom Festival, celebrated in the months of March and April.
The Cherry Blossom is Japan's unofficial National Flower. Somei Yoshino is a favorite Cherry Blossom variety of the Japanese. The flowers are almost pure white, tinged with the palest pink, especially near the stem.
The Somei Yoshino Cherry Blossoms bloom, and usually fall within a week, before the leaves come out. The trees, thus look nearly white from top to bottom. Other Cherry Blossom varieties include yamazakura, yaezakura, and shidarezakura. The yaezakura Cherry Blossom have large flowers, thick with rich pink petals.
The shidarezakura Cherry Blossom, or weeping Cherry, has branches that fall like those of a weeping willow, bearing cascades of pink flowers.
The Japanese Cherry starts flowering profusely from the first warmer days in April, heralding the coming of spring. The pink or white flowers grow in racemose clusters at nodes on short spurs. They are past flowering early in May.
The Cherries can be divided into three groups - the European, the American, and the Oriental. In general, the Oriental types (Prunus serrulata) are less hardy. This genus - Prunus comprises over 400 species and numerous cultivars of trees and shrubs growing in temperate climates mostly in the Northern Hemisphere.
It includes evergreen shrubs, flowering fruit trees, and all the stone fruits - almonds, apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and prunes. They are also very ornamental.
The National Cherry Blossom Festival is an annual celebration in Washington, D.C., commemorating the March 27, 1912, gift to the city of 3,000 Japanese cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo to strengthen the growing friendship between the United States and Japan. Cherry Blossoms are rooted deep in the culture of Japan and were used in ancient Japan to forecast how crops for the coming year would do. Modern Japan still celebrates Hanami - gatherings of friends to picnic under a canopy of Cherry Blossoms, enjoying the brief burst of the beauty of nature and springtime. Through the centuries, the Japanese have developed many different varieties of the Cherry tree. All of these trees bloom for a short time with pink or white flowers. Cherries are part of the rose family and like roses, most cherry trees bloom during the spring. A few varieties are grown to flower later and actually show their blossoms in autumn or even during winter! Normally, it is just a week to ten days before all of the blossoms are carried away by the wind.
Growing Cherry Blossoms
Cherries are propagated by budding them on seedling stocks in the nursery and are sold for planting stock as one or two-year-old trees. Sweet and Sour Cherries are fairly easy to grow. Sour Cherries, which are smaller and more tolerant of cold and heat, are easier to grow than sweet Cherries.
Sour cherries are self-pollinating so you don't have to plant two kinds. Sour Cherries also bloom later, which makes them less vulnerable to harm from late spring frosts.
Because of the fact that Cherry Blossom trees bloom early in spring and are susceptible to damage from late spring frosts, the site for growing Cherries should be slightly higher and sloped than the surrounding ground to prevent frosty air from settling in the low spots.
Cherry Blossom trees should be placed in a sheltered location with full sun, in soil that is deep, fertile and moist, but well drained.
Full sun exposure for Cherry Blossom trees is necessary to produce delicious Cherries and strong trees.
Cherry Blossom trees grown in shade will produce spindly branches and fewer cherries that are less sweet.
Sweet and sour Cherries are susceptible to most of the same problems.
Cherry Blossom Plant Care
Maintaining a clean surrounding is very important to keep pest and disease problems down for Cherry Blossom trees.
Bird problems on Cherry Blossom trees can be prevented by planting your trees near people or pets and by netting.
Diseased fruit, leaves, and prunings on Cherry Blossom trees should be removed immediately and either burned to kill insect larvae and disease spores or destroyed in a hot compost pile.
Some common problems seen in Cherry Blossom trees are Plum curculio, Brown rot, cherry fruit flies, cherry leaf spot and bacterial canker.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera hybrids
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Impatiens
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Impatiens is a beautiful annual that makes an excellent houseplant or summer bedding plant.
Impatiens is also known as “Busy Lizzie,” and its name is a Latin word that describes the way its seeds shoot out of its pods when ripe (the slightest touch can make a ripe impatiens seed pod burst open and scatter its seeds). Impatiens like shade and moisture.
PLANTING
Plant impatiens transplants after the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Impatiens prefer humus-rich, moist, and well-drained soil. Make sure the plants have some shelter from the wind.
The closer impatiens plants are, the taller they will grow, so space accordingly (impatiens plants can grown anywhere between 6 and 30 inches tall). For flower beds, plant 8 to 12 inches apart so the plants will stay low to the ground.
You can mix in compost or a slow-release fertilizer before transplanting to help the plants.
If you have impatiens plants in containers, like window boxes, use a sterile or soil-less growing mixture to ensure better drainage for the plants.
Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
CARE
The most important thing to remember about impatiens plants is to water them regularly. Keep them moist, but not too wet. If the plants dry out, they will lose their leaves. If you over-water the plants, this could encourage fungal diseases.
Remember container plants will need more water.
PESTS/DISEASES
Spider mites
Impatiens Downy Mildew (IDM): Get tips on how to treat mildew on impatiens.
Flower thrips
Root knot nematode
Whiteflies
Aphids
Caterpillars
Gray mold
Fungal leaf spot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Impatiens is a beautiful annual that makes an excellent houseplant or summer bedding plant.
Impatiens is also known as “Busy Lizzie,” and its name is a Latin word that describes the way its seeds shoot out of its pods when ripe (the slightest touch can make a ripe impatiens seed pod burst open and scatter its seeds). Impatiens like shade and moisture.
PLANTING
Plant impatiens transplants after the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Impatiens prefer humus-rich, moist, and well-drained soil. Make sure the plants have some shelter from the wind.
The closer impatiens plants are, the taller they will grow, so space accordingly (impatiens plants can grown anywhere between 6 and 30 inches tall). For flower beds, plant 8 to 12 inches apart so the plants will stay low to the ground.
You can mix in compost or a slow-release fertilizer before transplanting to help the plants.
If you have impatiens plants in containers, like window boxes, use a sterile or soil-less growing mixture to ensure better drainage for the plants.
Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
CARE
The most important thing to remember about impatiens plants is to water them regularly. Keep them moist, but not too wet. If the plants dry out, they will lose their leaves. If you over-water the plants, this could encourage fungal diseases.
Remember container plants will need more water.
PESTS/DISEASES
Spider mites
Impatiens Downy Mildew (IDM): Get tips on how to treat mildew on impatiens.
Flower thrips
Root knot nematode
Whiteflies
Aphids
Caterpillars
Gray mold
Fungal leaf spot
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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