文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Nothing says spring quite like tulips blooming in your garden. While these pretty flowers add beautiful splashes of color to your landscaping, they can be hazardous to any dogs living in your home, especially if your pet treats your garden like a salad bar.
Tulips
Perennials that bloom in the spring, tulips spring forth from planted bulbs. With few leaves, the bloom is the main visual focus of the tulip plant. They come in a wide variety of colors, including yellow, pink, red and violet. Tulips contain compounds called tulipan A and tulipan B. These compounds are found in every part of the plant and are poisonous to animals including cats, horses and dogs.
Symptoms
If your dog eats any part of a tulip, it could experience digestive problems like vomiting and diarrhea. If these problems are serious enough, they can lead to dehydration. Tulip ingestion can also cause hypersalivation, or excessive drooling. This is messy and can also contribute to fluid loss. Eating tulips can also cause depression. Because your dog does not feel well, it might lose interest in food and interacting with you or other members of your household.
Treatment
If you dog eats part of a tulip plant, call your veterinarian. The first thing your veterinarian will probably recommend is watchful waiting. Keep an eye on your dog and make sure it can easily access the outdoors. Give it plenty of clean water to drink. Most cases of gastric upset pass in a day or two. If your dog's symptoms linger or if it loses interest in food and water, bring it to your veterinarian's office. She can help clear the toxic elements from your dog's system as well as provide supportive care like restoring fluids so your dog stays hydrated as it recovers.
Considerations
The most poisonous part of the tulip is the bulb. If your dog likes to dig in your garden, fence off the area where you plant tulip bulbs so it cannot pull them out of the soil and eat them. If you bring tulips into your home, place them on tables or shelves that are high enough to keep them out of your pet's reach. If you do need to take your dog to the veterinarian, bring along a portion of the eaten tulip. It can help her decide how to best treat your dog.
Tulips
Perennials that bloom in the spring, tulips spring forth from planted bulbs. With few leaves, the bloom is the main visual focus of the tulip plant. They come in a wide variety of colors, including yellow, pink, red and violet. Tulips contain compounds called tulipan A and tulipan B. These compounds are found in every part of the plant and are poisonous to animals including cats, horses and dogs.
Symptoms
If your dog eats any part of a tulip, it could experience digestive problems like vomiting and diarrhea. If these problems are serious enough, they can lead to dehydration. Tulip ingestion can also cause hypersalivation, or excessive drooling. This is messy and can also contribute to fluid loss. Eating tulips can also cause depression. Because your dog does not feel well, it might lose interest in food and interacting with you or other members of your household.
Treatment
If you dog eats part of a tulip plant, call your veterinarian. The first thing your veterinarian will probably recommend is watchful waiting. Keep an eye on your dog and make sure it can easily access the outdoors. Give it plenty of clean water to drink. Most cases of gastric upset pass in a day or two. If your dog's symptoms linger or if it loses interest in food and water, bring it to your veterinarian's office. She can help clear the toxic elements from your dog's system as well as provide supportive care like restoring fluids so your dog stays hydrated as it recovers.
Considerations
The most poisonous part of the tulip is the bulb. If your dog likes to dig in your garden, fence off the area where you plant tulip bulbs so it cannot pull them out of the soil and eat them. If you bring tulips into your home, place them on tables or shelves that are high enough to keep them out of your pet's reach. If you do need to take your dog to the veterinarian, bring along a portion of the eaten tulip. It can help her decide how to best treat your dog.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Alstroemeria is a hardy perennial plant goes by a number of names, of which the most popular are Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas. Peruvian Lilies are among the more exotically beautiful flowers, and make great cuttings; but they also stand alone nicely in the yard, garden or pots. Because they’re very resilient, you could have them as borders in your landscaping scheme, potted plants on the patio and indoors, or as cut flowers; all them with different colors and styles to add great color to your home and garden. As for cut flowers, a long blooming period makes them perfect for that use, and the cut flowers last for a nice period of time as well.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
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2
求助
Deanna Dubbs
2017年09月27日
Can someone help identify this beautiful succulent? Thank you!
3
1
轻云蔽月：@Deanna Dubbs It isGuanyin lotus
Deanna Dubbs：@damian saul thanks !
damian saul：it's a tipe of echeveria
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Ten-foot giant Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) really can be grown in plant containers (even in small 3-gallon nursery pots). These beautiful native American flowers must be planted in full sun, or they can topple over while trying to reach sun. But growing these beauties in your balcony container garden will attract attention from the people in your neighborhood, as well as a lot of wildlife. The Sunflower’s floret patterns (what eventually turn into seeds) are displayed on the circular flower head in an amazing spiral pattern. This, in addition to making a beautiful flower display, ensures that the most seeds are crammed into the Sunflower’s flower head as possible.
Sunflowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall, and their flower heads are heliotropic, meaning they follow the sun across the sky. But once the Sunflower plant’s stem stiffens and becomes woody (around the time of its bloom), the flower stops following the sun. Although most Sunflowers grow to about 10 feet (3 m), the tallest Sunflower grew to 40 feet (12 m). After planting seeds, expect Sunflowers to be full-grown and blooming within about 3 months. Sunflowers attract wild birds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the balcony garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Sunflowers need full sun for 6 to 8 hours each day.
Water: When it comes to watering the Sunflower plant, add one inch of water per week. Compensate if the potting soil dries out from heat or sun.
Fertilizer: Fertilize your Sunflowers regularly with a high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer. When a flower head begins to form, switch to a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorous to promote a more spectacular Sunflower bloom.
Temperature: The Sunflower is an annual plant, so you do not need to worry about overwintering this plant indoors. The most important thing to remember with Sunflowers and temperature is to not plant them outdoors until the last frost has passed. If you experience a very hot, dry day, make sure to give extra water to your Sunflower so it does not dry out too much and die.
Pests and Diseases
While Sunflower plants are generally very healthy and immune to common garden pests and diseases, you will find wild birds and squirrels snacking on Sunflower seeds. When you harvest the giant Sunflower heads, make sure to keep them in an area where animals cannot eat the seeds. You may want to leave the heads on the stalk to attract birds to your garden.
Propagation
Collect seeds after allowing the Sunflower to completely dry out (but beware, the flowers won’t look very appealing at this point). Then cut the Sunflower head off and hang it upside down until the seeds dry out. Eat the Sunflower seeds yourself, feed them to wild birds or save them for the next gardening season. Plant Sunflower seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the potting soil, and they should germinate within 5 to 10 days.
Sunflowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall, and their flower heads are heliotropic, meaning they follow the sun across the sky. But once the Sunflower plant’s stem stiffens and becomes woody (around the time of its bloom), the flower stops following the sun. Although most Sunflowers grow to about 10 feet (3 m), the tallest Sunflower grew to 40 feet (12 m). After planting seeds, expect Sunflowers to be full-grown and blooming within about 3 months. Sunflowers attract wild birds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the balcony garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Sunflowers need full sun for 6 to 8 hours each day.
Water: When it comes to watering the Sunflower plant, add one inch of water per week. Compensate if the potting soil dries out from heat or sun.
Fertilizer: Fertilize your Sunflowers regularly with a high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer. When a flower head begins to form, switch to a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorous to promote a more spectacular Sunflower bloom.
Temperature: The Sunflower is an annual plant, so you do not need to worry about overwintering this plant indoors. The most important thing to remember with Sunflowers and temperature is to not plant them outdoors until the last frost has passed. If you experience a very hot, dry day, make sure to give extra water to your Sunflower so it does not dry out too much and die.
Pests and Diseases
While Sunflower plants are generally very healthy and immune to common garden pests and diseases, you will find wild birds and squirrels snacking on Sunflower seeds. When you harvest the giant Sunflower heads, make sure to keep them in an area where animals cannot eat the seeds. You may want to leave the heads on the stalk to attract birds to your garden.
Propagation
Collect seeds after allowing the Sunflower to completely dry out (but beware, the flowers won’t look very appealing at this point). Then cut the Sunflower head off and hang it upside down until the seeds dry out. Eat the Sunflower seeds yourself, feed them to wild birds or save them for the next gardening season. Plant Sunflower seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the potting soil, and they should germinate within 5 to 10 days.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Orchids are exotic plants that create beautiful blooms. With the right care, most orchids bloom at least once per year. Every orchid species has slightly different needs in order to thrive and bloom, but the variables are all the same – light, temperature, water, potting material, and humidity. By adjusting the environment for your particular species of orchid and providing a few seasonal triggers, you can get your plants to bloom.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Wisteria is the quintessential climber for the English cottage garden. A well-grown Wisteria is an absolute joy in mid-late spring when the beautiful, scented pendants of flowers drape from the branches in a breathtaking display. But often gardeners find these climbing plants a little daunting. The idea of all that pruning and training just feels far too complicated. It’s a shame because it’s not as tricky as you might think – in fact Wisteria is actually very easy to grow. With correct care these long-lived twining climbers will reward you with many years of pleasure in your garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The most important factor to consider when growing Wisteria is location. Wisteria is a twining vine that requires sturdy support and regular pruning to keep it under control. Open areas surrounded by lawn that can be easily mowed are ideal for growing Wisteria.
Wisteria doesn’t fair well in cold so make sure it receives plenty of sunlight.
This vine requires deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist but will tolerate many soil conditions.
Once planted, pruning is about the only important requirement for Wisteria vine care. Since this vine is an aggressive grower, there’s no need for fertilizing and being drought tolerant, Wisteria requires little watering.
Pruning and Training
While Wisteria is great for covering an arbor or pergola, training Wisteria vines makes it easier to control. Keep in mind, however, when training Wisteria vines the variety may exhibit different twining characteristics. For example, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) twines counterclockwise while the Japanese variety (Wisteria floribunda) is the opposite, twining clockwise.
When training Wisteria vines, select an upright stem and attach it to the chosen support. Remove any side shoots and continue to train the main vine upwards. New side branches can be trained as needed to fill in spaces of the support structure by attaching them where desired. For best results, keep these side branches spaced about 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Once the Wisteria has reached the desired height, pinch off or cut the main vine tip to stunt its growth.
Even trained Wisteria vines require regular pruning; otherwise, Wisteria will quickly take over everything in its path. Knowing how and when to prune Wisteria is important. While regular pruning of new shoots throughout its growing season helps keep the vine manageable, Wisteria requires a heavy pruning in late fall or winter as well. Remove any dead wood or crowded branches and cut back the side branches to about a foot (30 cm) or so from the main trunk. Also remove any suckers from its base.
Propagation
Learning how to propagate Wisteria vines is easy; however, doing so by way of seed is not a good idea. If choosing to propagate from seed, soak them overnight and plant. The seeds should sprout within a few weeks but keep in mind that blooming may not occur for 10-15 years, if ever.
The best way to propagate Wisteria is through cuttings taken in summer or by layering branches. Either method will still take about 3 to 4 years for blooming. When layering branches, choose a flexible branch and bend it to the ground, placing a few inches into the soil (with leaf node included). Weight it down to secure in place and allow this to overwinter. By spring it should have enough roots for planting.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The most important factor to consider when growing Wisteria is location. Wisteria is a twining vine that requires sturdy support and regular pruning to keep it under control. Open areas surrounded by lawn that can be easily mowed are ideal for growing Wisteria.
Wisteria doesn’t fair well in cold so make sure it receives plenty of sunlight.
This vine requires deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist but will tolerate many soil conditions.
Once planted, pruning is about the only important requirement for Wisteria vine care. Since this vine is an aggressive grower, there’s no need for fertilizing and being drought tolerant, Wisteria requires little watering.
Pruning and Training
While Wisteria is great for covering an arbor or pergola, training Wisteria vines makes it easier to control. Keep in mind, however, when training Wisteria vines the variety may exhibit different twining characteristics. For example, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) twines counterclockwise while the Japanese variety (Wisteria floribunda) is the opposite, twining clockwise.
When training Wisteria vines, select an upright stem and attach it to the chosen support. Remove any side shoots and continue to train the main vine upwards. New side branches can be trained as needed to fill in spaces of the support structure by attaching them where desired. For best results, keep these side branches spaced about 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Once the Wisteria has reached the desired height, pinch off or cut the main vine tip to stunt its growth.
Even trained Wisteria vines require regular pruning; otherwise, Wisteria will quickly take over everything in its path. Knowing how and when to prune Wisteria is important. While regular pruning of new shoots throughout its growing season helps keep the vine manageable, Wisteria requires a heavy pruning in late fall or winter as well. Remove any dead wood or crowded branches and cut back the side branches to about a foot (30 cm) or so from the main trunk. Also remove any suckers from its base.
Propagation
Learning how to propagate Wisteria vines is easy; however, doing so by way of seed is not a good idea. If choosing to propagate from seed, soak them overnight and plant. The seeds should sprout within a few weeks but keep in mind that blooming may not occur for 10-15 years, if ever.
The best way to propagate Wisteria is through cuttings taken in summer or by layering branches. Either method will still take about 3 to 4 years for blooming. When layering branches, choose a flexible branch and bend it to the ground, placing a few inches into the soil (with leaf node included). Weight it down to secure in place and allow this to overwinter. By spring it should have enough roots for planting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Roses (genus Rosa) are some of the most popular and beautiful flowering shrubs grown, but starting a rose garden may seem daunting to new gardeners. However, growing roses for beginners doesn’t have to be a stressful endeavor. In fact, with proper planting and care, nearly anyone can become a successful rose gardener.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Abelmoschus esculentus, also known as Okra is native to Africa and a beautiful relative of Hibiscus, was brought to North America in the 1600s. This tropical plant quickly became popular in the Deep South both as a side dish and as a thickening for gumbo and stews. It can, however, thrive in any climate where corn will grow. Depending on the cultivar, the large-flowered, fast-growing plants reach 2 to 6 feet (60 cm to 1.8 m) tall. Varieties with colorful stems and leaves, such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Burgundy’, make attractive garden borders.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
You may have seem some brilliant book planters for succulents and marveled at how such a simple project can yield such beautiful results. It’s a fun, easy project that anyone can do with just a few simple tools and some supplies from a local hardware store or garden center.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Hoya plant is known for its thick leaves and a characteristic shape. They are climbing and clambering so they make a very interesting sight in any home. Hoyas are also known as The Hindu Rope or Wax Plant. They are wax-stemmed and produce beautiful flowers. Many people like to grow them in their home, balcony or garden.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
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