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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
This introduction to organic ant control in the yard will answer three questions: Do these insects truly cause damage in your yard? Which herbs have traditionally been used to repel them? Which products can help you in your organic ant control efforts?
Is It Really Necessary? If you mention in certain circles that you practice ant control in the yard, you're likely to have some smart aleck pipe up and rant, "That's not really necessary, because these insects don't cause much damage to plants, so just leave them alone." But what your Mr. Know-It-All isn't recognizing in his rant is that, indirectly, ants can cause significant damage to plants. Ants have a sweet tooth for honeydew, a substance secreted by insect pests such as aphids, scale and whitefly. Not content to take a "hunter-gatherer" approach to supplying themselves with honeydew, ants act as "farmers," herding around the insect pests that secrete the honeydew. The herders protect these insect pests from predatory insects that would, otherwise, kill them.
Ant control, then, can be regarded as a measure to take against insect pests such aphids, scale and whitefly. Incidentally, as if the direct damage caused by these herded insect pests weren't sufficiently troubling to convince you that ant control is a legitimate concern, consider this: sooty mold, a fungus that often coats honeydew-stained plants, can damage a plant by depriving it of sufficient sunlight. Oh, and sooty mold turns ornamental plants into eyesores, too, by the way. Now that you understand when and why it's necessary to take action, let's consider a few organic methods used to tackle the problem. Note also that, in addition to the organic tips discussed below, successes in organic ant control have been reported using everything from parasitic wasps to talcum powder.
Getting Rid of Ants Naturally Through Companion Planting As gardeners, I think we're enamored with the idea that the solution to one plant's problem may well lie in another plant. Indeed, companion planting has helped gardeners deal effectively -- and organically -- with pests for centuries. There are even companion-planting solutions for ant control. Specifically, the fragrance of certain herbs has been thought to repel certain insects, including ants. Before I cite examples of plants used traditionally for organic ant control, however, let me issue a disclaimer. One gardener may swear that such and such an herb discourages ants; but that doesn't much help another gardener (living, perhaps, in a different region) who tries the same herb but fails to enjoy the same results. Remember that a given herb may not repel all types of ants. If you wish to try companion planting for organic ant control, be ready to experiment: Don't take anything as "the Gospel truth," or you may suffer disappointment.
Besides, the nice thing about companion planting is that, even if it fails, all you're "stuck" with (besides the insects you're fighting, that is) are some additional plants -- plants which you may end up liking so much for their ornamental value, etc. that you decide they're now must-haves for your yard (so you haven't wasted any money, at least). Examples of Herbs Used in Organic Ant Control Click on the links below to determine if lavender, sage, catnip or tansy might be plants you'd be interested in trying for organic ant control: Lavender Sage Catnip Tansy In experimenting with herbs for organic ant control, remember that you have some leeway in terms of exactly how you use the plants. This is an important consideration when you realize that tansy, for example, can be among the worst invasive plants. So note carefully that you don't necessarily have to plant the herbs for organic ant control around your specimen plants.
Instead, you can harvest the leaves from the herbs (grown elsewhere), then simply strew the leaves around a specimen plant. If you suspect a plant to be overly aggressive, plant it in a raised bed, where you have more control over it. Remember, too, that you would be targeting only specimen plants susceptible to aphids, scale and whitefly when employing this ant control method. Organic Ant Control Products "But," perhaps you object, "I don't have time to experiment with traditional methods of ant control. Is there an organic product that I can buy in stores or on the Web?" Fortunately, for the committed modernist, yes, there are organic products sold for getting rid of ants.
One such ant control product is the Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier, an organic paste composed primarily of sticky substances (waxes and resins) that act as a sort of "fly paper" for ants. Another is Orange Guard, which functions as both a repellent and an insecticide for getting rid of ants. Its active ingredient (d-Limonene) is organic: orange peel extract. Eco Exempt IC-2 is another organic insecticide for ant control, being composed of mineral, wintergreen and rosemary oils. Final Thought on Getting Rid of Ants in the Yard In closing, let's return to my initial question of whether it's necessary to get rid of ants in the yard, at all. As I stated above, controlling aphids, scale and whitefly entails, in part, controlling ants. But the corollary of this conclusion (vis-a-vis the health of your specimen plants, at least) is that if you do not have a problem with aphids, scale or whitefly, then you may not have to worry about getting rid of ants, either: many ants are, in themselves, harmless.
So don't overdo it! In defense of ants, your Mr. Know-It-All would have been correct to point out that ants do prey on certain insect pests. Ant control can be counterproductive when practiced blindly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
"How do I treat ants and sooty mold on a magnolia tree?" asked one reader recently. It is a common query. His question continued as follows: "We have a four-year-old magnolia tree (4 inches in diameter and 13 feet in height) that has really never looked great but has always had nice white flowers in spring, at least. The leaves never got that real dark green look. Now, this summer, the leaves have started looking a lighter green and the bark has mold on it.
I have washed the mold off the bark and noticed at the base of the tree the bark is coming off about 4 inches up. I pulled the loose bark off, and under it there was a ton of ants. The layer of bark under that is still solid, but a few bore holes (the holes only go in a little bit, I think). We are in Florida." Problems With Sooty Mold and Ants Actually Stem From Scale Insects The ants and mold (it is probably the mold called "sooty mold") may be the effect, rather than the cause of your magnolia tree's problems. The real cause may be magnolia scale bugs. The scale insects secrete a liquid named "honeydew" that invites sooty mold. And because this honeydew -- true to its name -- is a very sweet substance, the ants like to feed on it. You can find information on organic ant control in a separate resource.
What Is Sooty Mold? "Sooty mold" sounds disgusting, and it has an appearance to match. It appears as a sickly, black film covering the bark and/or leaves of a plant. Known in scientific lingo as Capnodium, sooty mold is a kind of fungus. As the University of Florida Extension points out, the sooty mold fungus, in and of itself, does not cause a direct problem for your plant, but rather an indirect one: namely, it inhibits the photosynthesis in a plant.
Photosynthesis is the very important process whereby the leaves of a plant convert nutrients into carbohydrates, by harnessing the energy derived from the rays of the sun. With a layer of sooty mold fungus covering the leaves of a plant, the sunlight cannot get through properly. The result is that the necessary photosynthesis can't take place, and the health of the plant suffers accordingly. Scale insects are commonly the culprit behind this chain of events on magnolia trees. To fight these insects effectively, learn how to practice magnolia scale control. Other sucking insects also secrete honeydew, including: Aphids Mealybugs Whiteflies
Take careful note that it is the sucking insects, rather than the sooty mold fungus or the ants, that you should be fighting. The fungus and the ants will go away once you have eliminated the sucking insects.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaf tip browning is an annoying condition that commonly affects certain types of houseplants. Spider plants, tropical plants, and those with long, strappy leaves are especially susceptible. The main difficulty when confronting leaf tip burn is to remember that it's a symptom of a larger problem (usually a cultural issue), as opposed to a condition in itself. So once your plant has burned leaf tips or margins, there's no way to reverse the damage at that wounded location.
The only thing to do is correct the underlying problem and hope the plant continues its healthy growth. The other problem with a leaf-tip burn is figuring out which of the possible factors may be causing it. Is it the water? Your fertilizer habits? The humidity? You might not know right away, so the best idea is, to begin with, the most likely condition, change it to the extent possible, and wait to see what happens. If new growth is unaffected or the scorching stops, you've figured it out. If it continues, then move on to the next condition and work on that.
Ideally, you'll catch leaf-tip burn early enough that the plant's appearance won't be completely ruined. These are the factors that can potentially cause leaf-tip burn: Watering issues. Leaf scorching can be a sign of erratic or insufficient watering or low humidity. It is especially true for tropical plants, which dislike the parched conditions in most centrally heated homes in the winter. These plants are evolved to luxuriate in humidity levels that range between 60 and 100 percent in their rainforest homes. A winter-time home can easily go to 20% humidity, which can cause leaf scorching. The solution is to raise the humidity—mist the plants, use a pebble tray, or relocate the plant to an area with higher humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. Also, remember that plants with strappy leaves have a greater challenge to move water from the roots to the ends of the leaves, so these plants are likely to show leaf-tip scorching faster than plants with shorter leaves. Finally, if you suspect your water is highly alkaline (a pH above 7), consider finding a more neutral water source. Plants prefer a slightly acidic environment.
Fertilizer issues. Fertilizer salts can cause leaf scorching, especially if large doses are fertilizer are applied. If you notice scorching on your plants shortly after feeding a heavy dose of fertilizer, it might be a problem with your fertilizer. Flush the soil with clean water several times to remove accumulated fertilizer salts and be more careful in the future. Fluoride. The idea that fluoride can damage houseplants has taken off recently, but the truth is that fluoride damage is usually limited to plants in the Dracaena family. These plants are susceptible to fluoride damage over the long-term, so if you're experiencing leaf burn in a Dracaena species, switch to un-fluoridated water. If the plant isn't dracaena, it's unlikely that fluoride is the issue.
Cold damage. Closely related to water stress, many houseplants aren't acclimated to cold, drafty conditions (by a winter window, for instance). Cold damage often shows up in the extremities first, meaning the leaf margins and leaf tips. If your tropical plants suffer from leaf scorching during the winter months, try to raise the temperature (and humidity, most likely) around them. Sun damage. Sun damage usually shows up as yellowing of the whole leaf, or even scorched spots on the leaves. Nevertheless, if your plant has recently been subjected to a change of direct light it's receiving, this could be the culprit.
Chemical damage. It is less likely to result in leaf-scorching, but it's possible. Household pesticides and cleaning chemicals can burn plants in some cases, so be aware of what you're using on your plants. Ultimately, a leaf-tip burn is almost always a cultural problem—fungal and bacterial diseases are typically more widespread across the leaf surface and usually involve the stem as well. So the best way to correct leaf-tip burn and margin scorching is to ask what cultural conditions might be causing the condition, then making an effort to fix them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
What Is Azalea Leaf Gall? First of all, let's consider what a "gall" is, in general, in the context of horticulture. A gall is a tumor-like eruption in plant tissue. A number of different plants are susceptible. The two types of plants upon which I most commonly find galls are: Oak trees Goldenrod A gall represents the plant's reaction to damage caused by an invading agent. In the case of azalea galls, that agent is a fungus (see below). But there are other agents that cause galls to develop on other plants. For example, one master gardener has written about the leaf galls caused by insects on various trees.
Regarding azalea leaf galls, specifically, you will notice two different phases (which may be present at the same time on the same plant, as in my picture): In phase one, the swollen leaf tissue is waxy and most often pale green. In phase two, it is a gray blob (and more recognizable to the beginner as some sort of fungus). Even the flowers on azalea bushes can be infested with galls.
What to Do About Azalea Leaf Galls First of all, take solace in the fact that their bark is worse than their bite. As alien-looking and repulsive as azalea leaf galls are, they are not considered overly serious. They are caused by the fungus, Exobasidium vaccinii. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly. Do not put them in the compost bin, and do not leave them lying around on the ground, lest the fungus spread to other branches.
For preventive care, avoid letting the soil become compacted around your azaleas. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, including by: Working ample amounts of humus into the soil Applying landscape mulch around the plants Furthermore, as is usually the case when dealing with fungus prevention, make it a point to apply water to your azalea shrubs down at ground level, rather than spraying from above. The latter practice gets the foliage all wet, which is an open invitation to fungi. Having said all that, overall, I have found the amount of time I need to put into azalea care to be relatively minimal here in the Northeastern U.S. Care has consisted mainly of occasionally spraying neem oil on my Gibraltar azalea to kill aphids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many homeowners who landscape their properties with trees are taken aback when they spot infestations of leaf gall on their favorite specimens. Appearing as little bumps on the foliage of a tree (as if your plant were breaking out with some weird type of acne), these disfiguring eruptions look terrible. But how bad are they for the long-term health of your plant? And what is the cause behind them?
What Causes Leaf Gall? How Big a Problem Is It? "We have a river birch tree which is about three years old," writes one reader. "Suddenly this summer, small bumps are appearing on some of the leaves. Is this a disease and can it be stopped?" What this reader is reporting is a case of leaf gall. Those small bumps are caused by an insect that eats or lays eggs on the plant's foliage. One Master Gardener explains that the gall "is the plant's response to the resulting irritation," drawing an analogy to what happens to the human body after a bug such as a mosquito bites us: a bump is left behind. She notes that, while galls are rarely fatal, "they may cause early leaf drop," but she adds that a healthy, mature tree will be able to cope with such leaf drop by producing new foliage and that a serious problem should only result if the galls keep coming back for several years in a row.
What's the Solution? The bad news is that, once you spot these bumps, the damage has already been done. You can't spray to get rid of the bumps that are currently infesting your tree's foliage: you are stuck with them for the present year. As the same source notes, however, if leaf gall is a recurring problem for you, you can spray in early spring to get a jump on the insects. However, do note that you can't just spray willy-nilly: the spray that you use must target the particular insect that is causing the leaf galls to form.
One problem with spraying, however, as pointed out by the Missouri Botanical Garden (MBOT), is that you will be killing beneficial insects, too -- insects that may actually be able to help you control your leaf-gall problem over the long haul (by killing the insects who cause the galls). They emphasize that spraying is a preventive measure, and that a certified arborist should be employed for the job (because it takes great skill "to identify the gall-producing organism").
The good news, again, is that leaf gall is typically not considered very dangerous (either in general or to river birch trees, specifically). In fact, MBOT asserts that a leaf studded with these ugly growths is still "usually able to carry out photosynthesis at near normal levels." In addition to birches, trees known to be susceptible to developing leaf galls include: Elms Maples Oaks
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Have you ever picked up a leave that was dotted with bumps or had long protrusions dangling from it? Chances are these are leaf galls.
What are Leaf Galls Leaf galls are a frightening sight, but are not usually as serious as they appear. These bumps and deformities are usually the result of feeding by insects or some other foreign organism such as bacteria, fungi, mites, nematodes, and even viruses. These organisms are usually not still on the plant leaf. The gall itself is actually the plant’s response to the irritation. It’s not unlike the bump you get when an insect feeds on you, expect the leaf gall is not going to go away.
Despite appearances, the insect is not living in the gall. In fact, it is very likely that once you notice the galls the insects have moved on. Before they do, they can do a lot of cosmetic damage to many plants and in particular trees. Galls can also form on stems and flowers, however leaf galls seem to be the ost prominent and get the most notice. It is the fresh new growth that are attacked by the insects and other organisms and then produce the galls. Mature leaves are rarely affected. However many common trees are susceptible to leaf galls, especially when first leafing out in the spring. Maple, oak, elm, hackberry and others each are favored by a different insect that causes unsightly and intimidating galls.
Damage will be greater following a mild winter, since more insects have survived and are hungry. Galls won’t usually kill a tree, but they may cause early leaf drop. A healthy tree will send out new growth and recover. What Can You Do About Leaf Galls? Since the damage occurred before the gall formed, treatment is rarely recommended. If you have a serous reoccurring insect problems, you can spray your tree in early spring, to lessen the severity of the damage. Contact your local extension office for specific guidelines and recommendations in your area. But if you're patient, nature may take care of the problem for you. Gall making insects tend to attract their own predators.
One way leaf galls can cause a serious problem for trees is that their formation requires energy and nutrients from the tree, which can stress and weaken the tree itself, as it is coming out of dormancy in the spring. This can happen when there is an unusually high concentration of galls on the plant or when the plant is attacked and galls are produced several years in a row. For this reason, you should not ignore the presence of galls entirely. If this is the case, you should consider finding out what organism is causing the galls and treat for it the following spring, to prevent further stress and damage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Readers email me all of the time during the cold-weather months to ask, "Why is my arborvitae turning brown?" In fact, I witness the phenomenon frequently, myself while driving around during the cold New England (USA) winters and observing people's landscapes. As common an issue as this is, I felt that it deserved the article that follows, to help homeowners understand: The nature of the problem (that is, the reason for so-called "winter burn").
How to prevent it. Or, failing successful prevention, what to do about it, should it occur. The Reason Why Arborvitae Foliage Turns Brown If your arborvitae shrub turns brown, it could, depending on the time of the year, be due to a problem known as "winter burn." Did it turn brown over the course of the winter or early spring? Then winter burn is, indeed, likely to be your problem. What is it all about? Well, the combination of wind, sun, freezing temperatures, and lack of available water in winter can cause arborvitae foliage (and the leaves of other evergreens, as well) to turn brown, due to so-called "desiccation" (which means drying out). Water is the lifeblood of foliage. When an evergreen shrub can't draw water up through its root system to its leaves during periods when the ground is frozen (at which time any moisture in the soil becomes unavailable, as nature "shuts down"), those leaves -- beset by challenging conditions, as it is -- give it up their green color.
They have been killed by winter burn. How to Prevent Winter Burn (or Deal With It If It Has Already Occurred) So how do you prevent arborvitae leaves from turning brown? And if browning does occur during the cold weather months, what action, if any, should you take once spring returns? I will begin with five prevention tips: Protect with tree wrap (picture) Select a sheltered location at planting time Water in late fall Water during thaws Mulch over the root zone
Regardless of the type of arborvitae you plant, your best bet for avoiding winter burn is to wrap the arborvitae in burlap. Placement in the landscape can also help prevent browning: avoid planting arborvitae on the south side of a wall (the sun can be an enemy in winter) or in an area exposed to high winds. Many experts recommend easing up some on watering arborvitae in September to encourage hardening off, then maintaining adequate irrigation from October until whenever the ground freezes in your area. Such an irrigation regimen will help prepare the shrubs for winter. Also look for opportunities to water your arborvitae during the winter. You have probably heard the term, "January thaw," right? If the ground thaws out at some point in the winter (thaws can happen in February, too), take advantage. With the soil loose again thanks to the thaw, any water you spray on the ground can permeate down to the plant's root zone once again. This drink could help your shrub in the same way that a glass of water slakes the thirst of a wanderer in the desert.
As a final preventive measure, you will want to apply garden mulch around your arborvitae. Remember, winter burn is a moisture issue, at bottom. And mulch helps conserve moisture in the soil around a plant. So it is a no-brainer to mulch your shrub if you are concerned about the possibility of winter burn.
Arborvitae branches whose foliage turns brown (entirely) due to winter burn may not come back, but there is no sense in being hasty about pruning (you never know), so I would hold off on pruning until well into the spring or even summer. Only time will tell as to whether your arborvitae branches will recover from winter burn; there is not much you can do to reverse the damage that results in brown foliage. Instead, direct your efforts at preventing winter damage in the future (see above). If green growth does, eventually, re-emerge on a branch damaged by winter burn, prune the branch back as far as that greenery. But if the arborvitae branch never shakes the "brown look," just prune if off entirely.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Tree care is a critical investment for the future of your landscape. So while brown leaves, dead limbs, and the like don't always mean you have a dying tree, it's important to take notice of such troubling signs and learn their causes. The following are some of the dividends you'll earn on your investment in caring for your yard's gentle giants, assuming you handle it correctly: Increasing property values Beautifying your surroundings Purifying your air Saving energy by providing cooling shade from summer's heat and protection from winter's wind I receive many questions about tree care from readers, a sampling of which I've provided below.
Why Are the Leaves on My Japanese Maples Turning Brown? There's a reason that Japanese maple trees are among the most popular specimens in the landscape. Their leaves look wonderful throughout the growing season, not just in autumn. For fall foliage colors, they offer gold as well as red. So-called "dissected" types exhibit interesting leaf shapes, to boot. But with Japanese maples, it is not uncommon to see the leaves turning brown in summer. Click the tree care link above to learn why this problem occurs.
Why Do I Have Brown Leaves on My Magnolia Trees? Unlike Japanese maples, magnolia trees have something besides foliage to brag about. Magnolia trees are one of the most popular specimens in the spring landscape, due to their beautiful blossoms. But the appearance of brown leaves out of season is a troubling sight on any specimen. Consult the FAQ linked to above to learn why context is everything when it comes to asking why your magnolia trees have brown leaves.
My Magnolia Trees Have Not Only Brown Leaves But Dead Branches. How Much Should I Prune? If brown leaves scare homeowners, then dead branches should send them into shock! But wait; all is not lost, necessarily. When you detect dead branches, the tree care task awaiting you involves both action and scrutiny. Above all, remain calm, and consult the FAQ linked to above.
My Young Bradford Pear Tree Now Has Brown Leaves That Are Wilted. What's Up? Bradford pear trees flower profusely in spring and afford excellent autumn color. But the experts warn that it's a mistake to plant Bradford pear trees, and rightly so: their limbs break too easily in stormy weather. I've seen the limbs of too many Bradford pear trees lying on the ground after a good wind to buy one, myself. But if you've already planted a young Bradford pear tree, your hope is that, through proper tree care, you can derive as many years as possible from your specimen. Your tree care work may well begin with the challenge represented by the FAQ linked to above.
My Magnolia Trees Developed Brown Leaves. The Foliage Also Got Black Spots on It. The Leaves Fell Off. What's the problem? Have black spots on your magnolia tree foliage? Find out what they are -- and what you can do about this problem. The Leaves on My Bradford Pear Tree Are Turning Brown. Should I Give It More Water? As the answer to this FAQ reveals, you can't automatically assume you need to water a tree more just because it has brown leaves when its foliage would normally be green. The Leaves on My Emerald Cedar Tree Started Turning Brown Last Summer. What's the Problem? This problem regards browning on a plant actually named 'Emerald Green' arborvitae, but some people use the nickname "Emerald cedar." Find out the possible reasons why this plant's foliage might turn brown in summer.
Tree Problems Caused by Insects Insect pests can wreak havoc with trees. And what makes tree problems caused by insects especially difficult to cope with is that, sometimes, the pests we detect on a tree aren't the ones causing the problem. Below I present a sampling of Q&As dedicated to this topic: My Red Spruce Trees Are Being Attacked by Insects (Beetles). How Do I Stop the Spread? Speaking of deadly attacks on trees from insect pests, certain beetles can spell major problems for your specimen trees. As I explain in the FAQ linked to above, proper tree care, in this case, demands good timing and a belief that neatness counts. Scale Insects Have Infested My Magnolia Tree. How Do I Control Magnolia Scale? Scale insects are among the oddest looking insects you'll ever see. Click the link to this FAQ to learn how to control magnolia scale.
My Young Blue Spruce Tree Is Developing Bare Branches. Is It Dying? Insects may be the culprits here. Consult this FAQ to find out which insects would be the "usual suspects" -- and how to control them. What Pest Makes Those Little Holes in a Tree? Is It an Insect? As you'll see in the answer to this tree problem question, it all depends on the nature of those "little holes." In one scenario, you don't have to worry about the culprit; in another, the culprit is an insect pest about which you very much need to worry.
How Do You Treat Ants and Sooty Mold on a Magnolia Tree? If your tree is struggling and has insects on it, you can't just assume that those particular insects are at the root of the problem. Here's a case where insects (ants) and sooty mold are effects, rather than the cause of a problem. Yellow Leaves on Trees - What's the Reason? Your tree has yellow leaves. Does that yellowing signify a tree problem? Well, it depends on the circumstances. Obviously, if you grow fall foliage trees and they are displaying that color in fall, there's a good chance that the foliage is supposed to look that way. But what about other times of the year? Or what about other types of trees? Well, it still depends on the circumstances, as you'll discover by clicking the first two links below dealing with the issue of yellow leaves on trees.
My Southern Magnolia Has Yellow Leaves. Is It Dying? We begin with a case of yellow leaves on a southern magnolia. Why Did the Flowers on My Bradford Pear Turn Black?In this FAQ, the operative color is black, not yellow. Fire blight disease is so called because it causes tree parts to turn black. Find out how to treat fire blight by reading this tree problem FAQ. Does It Help to Fertilize an Injured Tree? Fertilizing has its place in tree care, but does it play a role in nursing an injured tree back to health? My Magnolia Tree is Getting Too Big and I'd Like to Make It More Compact. What Is the Best Time for Pruning Magnolia Trees? In this FAQ, I answer the question of when to prune magnolia trees -- but with a caveat.
How Do You Care for a Potted Magnolia Tree? It's easy enough to fulfill sunlight requirements for a potted magnolia tree, but proper watering isn't so easy to achieve. Why Isn't My Flowering Tree Blooming? A "flowering tree" not flowering: Is that a contradiction in terms? Well, Mother Nature apparently doesn't see it that way. Find out some of the possible reasons why a flowering tree might fail to bloom. How Do You Straighten a Leaning Tree? If your tree leans and you've tried -- but failed -- to straighten it out, you'll want to consult the answer to this tree problem FAQ.
Why Are My Dwarf Alberta Spruce Trees Experiencing Needle Drop? Needle drop on evergreens can be scary, but it's not necessarily fatal. Learn what may be causing needle drop on your evergreen tree -- and what to do about it. Can You Spread Soil Over Exposed Tree Roots and Grow Plants on Top of Them? ​This isn't the best of ideas, and I explain why it's not in this FAQ, offering an alternative. Winter Damage to Trees In the following entry, I discuss another problem: a case of coping with the challenges posed by warm climates. In the last two FAQs, I point to examples where tree "damage" might be your first thought upon observing strange growths (bumps) on trees, but they turn out to be nothing harmful.
Do You Have Any Tips for Protecting Japanese Maple Trees From Snow and Ice Damage? In addition to some of the more direct steps you can take to protect Japanese maple trees (and others) from winter damage, this FAQ looks at some less obvious steps that you could easily overlook. Our Bradford Pear Lost Limbs From Snow and Ice Damage. What Should We Do? Some tree problems are the result of poor plant selection. Bradford pear trees are notorious for losing branches due to wind, ice and snow damage. Why Don't the Buds on My Magnolia Tree Open Up? There are a number of possible answers to this question. I offer three potential reasons why magnolia buds fail to open in this FAQ. Two of those reasons are weather-related.
Can You Grow Dwarf Alberta Spruces in Pots in Warm Climates? Dwarf Alberta spruces are best grown in zones 3 to 8, but this reader wishes to "break the rule" -- or try to, anyhow. I suggest a way to "cheat" that might make it possible to grow dwarf Alberta spruces in warm climates. What Are Those Odd-Looking Growths on My Magnolia Trees? Although our trees sometimes exhibit signs of having been damaged, some tree "damage" turns out, upon further inspection, to be a false alarm. We detect something (perhaps something we'd describe as an "odd growth") we've never noticed before, and it worries us -- until we've undergone the necessary learning process to find out what the heck it is! Such is the case in this FAQ, which you can access by clicking on the link above.
The Leaves of My River Birch Tree Have Growths on Them. What Problem Does My Tree Have? Another case of "mysterious growths" or bumps -- but once again, nothing that indicates any serious damage. Why Should I Be Watering Evergreen Trees in Autumn? Hint: It's a matter of thinking ahead. When Should I Be Watering Trees in Fall? You know the "Why?", now learn the "When?" When Should You Fertilize Trees? In general, fertilize trees in spring. This will result in surprisingly vigorous new growth, including a thicker leaf canopy. The foliage will also display a richer color as the result of the application of tree fertilizers. By the way, yes, you should still apply tree fertilizers even to older specimens, even though it's natural to think that they're "big enough already." They need the nutrients to stay healthy.
What Is the Proper Way of Pruning Trees? There are many different kinds of pruning cuts, but the following tips will give beginners the basics of what they need to know about the proper way of pruning trees, generally. If you must prune off a scaffold branch (see below), make sure, first of all, that the branch does not begin to fall prematurely, while still attached to the trunk. This would cause a rip at the joint where the branch meets the trunk, thus creating an open sore that invites disease. To avoid this scenario, make your cuts in the following manner to reduce pressure on this joint: At a point along the branch approximately 2-3 feet away from the trunk, begin by sawing about half way through the branch from the bottom. Now, from the top, but an inch or so further out from the branch than the first cut (more for thicker branches), saw through the rest of the branch, to remove it. You've now removed all but 2-3 feet of the branch. The remaining stub won't weigh enough to put undue pressure on the aforementioned joint.
Now proceed to prune off the remaining stub, as indicated below. With the danger of ripping thus eliminated, we can prune off the remaining 2-inch to 3-inch stub. To do so, acquaint yourself with a tree part known as a branch "collar." A branch's "collar" is the swelled base of the branch where it meets the tree trunk. Think of it as an intermediate area between the branch and the trunk. To finish pruning off the branch, saw it off just outside the branch collar. Leaving the branch collar intact will promote healing. If you are merely shortening a scaffold branch on a young tree, prune the branch back to a lateral bud or other branch. What exactly is a "scaffold branch?" A scaffold branch is one of the primary limbs radiating from the trunk of a tree. All subordinate limbs stem from the scaffold branches. By establishing what the latter will be for a particular specimen early on, you can prune accordingly and shape it so as to achieve optimal form. This is one of the most important aspects of early tree care.
What Is the Best Time to Prune Trees? You can cut dead or diseased branches off trees (whether evergreen or deciduous) at any time of the year, as soon as you see them. But what is the best time to prune trees, with the intention of thinning out healthy branches? The job is best done, generally speaking, in late winter. For example, pruning oak trees at this time will help avoid problems with oak wilt, to which the trees are more susceptible April-June. An exception can be made for plants with a high sap flow in late winter, such as maple trees. The best time to prune such trees is late spring or early summer. In thinning out trees, you'll be removing branches that are alive and disease-free, but ill-positioned or otherwise undesirable. For instance, you shouldn't have any two branches of your trees coming into contact with each other. Such contact invites disease and an overly thick canopy casts too much shade on the tree's lower branches.
True, in the case of flowering trees (such as weeping cherry trees), specifically, pruning off such branches in late winter may lessen the impact of the specimen's floral display for that year. But in the long run, the pruning will be beneficial.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Homeowners frequently wonder why their crepe myrtle shrubs develop brown leaves. The fact is, one simple reason cannot be given to account for this browning. That is because the nature of the issue depends on the time of year when the problem occurs. We also have to be careful to specify that we are talking here about the whole leaf turning brown (sometimes accompanied by curling), or about the foliage browning around the edges, as opposed to the emergence of brown spots in the middle of the leaf.
Such spots can indicate Cercospora leaf spot, which is caused by a type of fungus (Cercospora lythracearum) -- and an entirely different problem. Give your bushes plenty of space (to promote good air circulation) when you plant them, and prune off (and properly dispose of) affected branches (to prevent transmission of the fungus) to ward off Cercospora leaf spot. Better yet, select cultivars resistant to this disease, a number of which you can find on the Alabama Cooperative Extension website.
Brown Leaves on Crepe Myrtles: the Why Depends on the When But let's assume that the browning that you are seeing occurs on the entire leaf or around its edges (rather than in the form of spots). Consider two different scenarios: You witness the problem in summer You witness the problem in spring If you are seeing brown leaves (or even partially brown leaves) on crepe myrtle shrubs at the end of a dry summer, your crepe myrtle's browning foliage could be due to drought.
These bushes flourish in the southeastern United States, where they are very popular due to their ability to withstand the summer heat. Nonetheless, they do need water, and they may dry up during especially hot summers during which there is little rainfall. Northerners who grow the bush (it is not nearly as popular in the North) are far less likely to experience a problem with their crepe myrtles drying out. This is more of an issue for Southern growers, who garden under more extreme conditions in summer. The result is browning of the foliage. The solution (in terms of preventative measures that you can take) to the problem is to provide the plant with artificial irrigation in sufficient quantity (keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet).
If, by contrast, you are seeing brown leaves on the plant in spring, it could be due to your area having experienced a cold snap. Crepe myrtle is not as tolerant of cold weather as many bushes are. An untimely drop in temperature after the tender leaves have made their appearance can spell death for them. Short of growing your bush in a sheltered area (which requires foresight), there is not much that you can do to avoid the problem of browning in this case.
Will My Crepe Myrtle Die? Here is the good news: neither case of brown leaves (that is, either in summer or in spring) need be fatal to your crepe myrtle. Browning due to a moderate cold snap ruins the appearance of the plant, but it probably will not kill your shrub. And while this bush is more likely to die from drought, it is usually easy enough to remedy the situation with artificial irrigation once you detect the first hint of browning.
Obviously, in the latter case, vigilance is of the utmost importance. Keep tabs on your plants. Inspect them on a daily basis. Stay ahead of the game. If your crepe myrtle shrubs do not seem to be performing as they usually do, start asking questions. Many plant problems can be solved fairly easily if you learn about them soon enough and take appropriate action in a timely fashion. Do you tend to have trouble keeping up with your landscaping chores? Read my landscape maintenance checklist to stay organized.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
"Why do I have brown leaves on my magnolia trees?" Have you ever asked that question? You are hardly alone. These specimens can be magnificent, but they can also be plagued with problems. Brown leaves on magnolia trees could be the result of any one of a number of factors. Three such possible reasons are presented below, along with (where appropriate) a solution to the problem.
Possible Reasons for the Dead Foliage, How to Prevent It A context must be provided to answer this tree-care question properly. We must first know: The type of magnolia tree in question. The time of year when the discoloration occurs. Some magnolia trees are deciduous, such as saucer magnolia trees (M. x soulangiana), and some are evergreen, such as Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora). If your own tree is a deciduous type, then you have nothing to worry about if the issue occurs during the fall season: its leaves are supposed to turn brown and fall in autumn.
If, on the other hand, the brown leaves appear in spring, it could mean that there was frost damage. The good news is that such frost damage is unlikely to kill your tree. The bad news is that it will ruin the plant's appearance for a while, and that there is precious little you can do to prevent frost damage on a mature specimen. However, if you have just brought a small tree home from the garden center, you have the option of selecting a planting location for it that will be more likely to keep frosts off the foliage. An example of such a sheltered area would be one close your house. If the plant is still small enough, you may also be able to throw a sheet (or a similar covering) over it on a night when a frost is expected in your area (but remember to remove it next morning). For a mature magnolia tree, your options are more limited.
However, you can try taking the following measures: Soak the soil around the root zone of the plant. The air temperature above damp ground tends to stay warmer than that above drier ground. Set up a patio heater (if you have one) near the plant (but not so close that it actually heats up the foliage). Always follow safety instructions to the letter when running such devices. Spray an antitranspirant on the tree's leaves to offer some protection.
If the browning appears in summer, inadequate watering may be the cause of brown leaves, although high winds could also be the culprit (they dry out the foliage). The former is a more serious problem, but there is still no reason to be hasty in concluding that your magnolia tree has died. It is best to exercise patience, giving the plant time to recuperate. As preventive measures: Plant new trees in a sheltered area if your region is subject to high winds. Make sure the soil in the root zone is kept evenly moist.
Finally, if the problem is happening in spring or summer, ask yourself this question: Do the brown leaves fall off almost immediately after the color change? That could signal a nutritional problem knows as "iron deficiency." I would recommend you have a soil test done (your county extension should be able to handle this).
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