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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A major pest of corn, the European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) will also feed on over 300 different garden plants including peppers, snap beans, potatoes, tomatoes, apples and gladiolus. Damage to corn is caused by the young larvae which chew leaves and tassels. Later they tunnel all parts of the stalks and ears, resulting in reduced plant vigor, broken stalks, poor ear development and dropped ears. Other crops are damaged primarily by the tunneling of the stalks, pods or stems by the larvae.
Fully grown corn borer larvae (3/4 – 1 inch long) are extremely destructive flesh-colored caterpillars with a reddish or dark brown head and several distinct spots on the top of each abdominal ring or segment. The adult borer is a night-flying yellowish-brown colored moth (1 inch wingspan) with dark wavy bands across its wings. Note : The European corn borer most likely arrived in the United States during the early 1900’s in imported corn which was used to make brooms.
Life Cycle Fully grown larvae pass the winter concealed in corn stubble or other plant parts on which they have been feeding. Pupation takes place in late spring with the adult moths appearing in May and June. When mature, the females begin laying clumps of white eggs on the undersides of the lower leaves of host plants. (Adult females may lay up to 500 eggs over their short lifetime.) Under ideal conditions, these first generation eggs hatch within 3-7 days. Tiny caterpillars begin feeding on host plants and complete their development in 3-4 weeks. Pupation occurs deep inside the corn stalks and second generation moths emerge and begin laying eggs in early summer. Produces 1-3 generations per year depending upon the climate.
Note: Second generation borers are considered to be the most damaging to corn. Corn Borer Control Shred and plow under cornstalks in or near fields where borers overwinter. This should be done in fall or early spring before the adults emerge. Use pheromone traps to determine main flight period for moths, then release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing larvae, will consume a large number of borer eggs.
Treat silk frequently with Garden Dust (Bt-kurstaki) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (spinosad) to kill young larvae. Repeat applications every 4-5 days until tassels turn brown. Use organic insecticides only as a last resort. Note: Ladybugs will consume almost 60 borer eggs a day. Stink bugs, damsel bugs, spiders and hover fly larvae feed on young caterpillars.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Primarily night feeders, the common earwig (Forficula auricularia) is considered to be an insect pest when it feeds on soft plant shoots, such as corn silks, and eats small holes in foliage and flowers. Sometimes ripened fruits are infested, but damage is usually tolerable. It can be particularly damaging to seedlings. Earwigs also play a beneficial role in the garden, acting as scavengers on decaying organic matter and predators of insect larvae, snails, aphids and other slow moving bugs. They are often carried great distances in produce shipments and other freight.
These slender red-brown insects (3/4 inch long) with elongated, flattened bodies are distinguished by a pair of sharp pincers at the tail end, which they use for capturing prey and mating. A few species have wings, although it is not a strong flier, and usually crawls in search of food. Earwigs get their name from an old superstition that they crawl into the ears of a sleeping person and bore into the brain. While menacing in appearance, they are harmless to man.
Note: Earwigs will occasionally enter the home. However, their presence is accidental and they will not establish themselves or reproduce indoors. Life Cycle Adults overwinter in the soil. Females lay 20-50 cream-colored eggs in underground nests during January and February, and the newly hatched young (nymphs) first appear in April. Nymphs are protected in the nest and do not leave until after the first molt, when they must fend for themselves. Young earwigs develop gradually, passing through 4-5 nymphal instars before becoming adults. They are similar in appearance to adults, but lack wings and the large sized pincers. Most species in this country have one generation per year.
Earwig Control If earwigs become pestiferous there are several effective organic methods that can be used for getting rid of them. Remove garden debris and excessive mulch where earwigs are living and breeding. Since earwigs seldom fly, a sticky band of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier around the trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody plants will prevent them from reaching the leaves and fruits on which they feed. Broadcast Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests. Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near areas to be protected. Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Infection by dollar spot (Sclerotinia homeocarp) appears as tan or straw-colored spots ranging in size from a quarter to that of a silver dollar sunken in the turf. Occasionally, small cottony strings of the fungus can be seen growing from the diseased leaf blades.
Dollar spot occurs throughout the growing period, and is most active during moist, warm days and cool nights. As the disease progresses, individual spots may join to destroy large patches of lawn. It occurs widely on golf greens, but may also be a severe problem on lawns growing under dry soil conditions. Turf damage is usually more severe if there is a deficiency of nitrogen. Disease fungi are spread from one area to another by water, wind, mowers, other equipment or shoes.
Treatment The following organic fungicides are recommended: Bonide® Liquid Copper is a natural formulation used to protect everything from turf to vegetables, to flowers and fruits. Mix 1.5 to 6 oz with 2.5 gallons of water and apply to 1,000 sq. ft. For best results, start 2 weeks before problems normally occur. Repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed. Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Add 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and spray over problem areas, repeat as needed. One pint treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this fungal disease. For example: Cut grass at the recommended maximum height. Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface in any one mowing, and if possible, wash the mower between cuttings with a 10% bleach solution. Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils. Improve drainage by top-dressing with organic matter such as organic compost or well-aged animal manure. Keep lawns well watered, but avoid irrigating in the late afternoon or evening — do NOT over water.
Apply a slow-release organic fertilizer high in nitrogen; applying liquid seaweed and chelated iron is also helpful. Do NOT over fertilize, since this can result in an increase of other turf grass diseases such as brown patch. Over seed in the fall with resistant turf cultivars.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many species of cutworms from the night-flying moth family Noctuidae are found in home gardens across the United States. The larvae commonly feed on plant stems at or below ground, eventually cutting them down. Cutworms attack a wide variety of plants including beets, cabbage, broccoli, kale and cauliflower.
Cutworm caterpillars (larvae) are stout, soft-bodied, gray or dull brown caterpillars (1-2 inch long) that curl up when at rest or disturbed. They feed at night and burrow into the soil during the day. Adults are dark gray or brown, night-flying moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with ragged blotches or stripes on their wings. They do not damage plants. Note: Pest populations vary greatly from year to year. When numerous, cutworms can destroy up to 75% of a crop. Life Cycle Most species pass the winter in soil or under garden waste as young larvae. In the spring, as temperatures warm, they become active and begin feeding on plants at night remaining hidden during the day. The larvae molt several times and when fully grown pupate in the soil (late spring). Within one week moths emerge and begin laying hundreds of eggs mostly on stems and leaves. One to five generations per year, depending upon the species.
Note: Overwintering larvae and the first generation in the spring are the most damaging. A few species pass the winter as pupae or hibernating moths. Damage Damage occurs at night when caterpillars feed by clipping off seedling stems and young plants near or just below the soil surface. Often, an entire row of newly planted garden vegetables will be cut off during the night. Different cutworm species will climb plants doing damage to foliage, buds and shoots. Cutworms are also known to gouge potato tubers. Late season cutworms will tunnel in fruit. Cut worms, like their close cousins armyworms, will also frequently attack turf grass. The damage they inflict on grass — cutting off blades at the crown — is usually more dispersed than damage from army worms. Cutworms favor golf courses where they cause “ballmark” pockets of dead and missing turf both on fairways and putting greens.
Cutworm Control Losing precious transplants once to cutworms is all most people require to implement preventive measures as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. There’s little more heart-breaking than coming out to the garden one morning to find the seedlings you started months ago indoors have been severed at the root. Tempted to spray chemicals after losing young plants to the slow-moving eating machines? Despite the fact that it will endanger your pets, your children and the environment, pesticide use against cutworm, reports Michigan State University Extension, is “often unsuccessful.”
Preventive Measures Before planting a new garden remove weeds and plant debris that might feed and shelter developing larvae. Turn the soil after fall clean up then give birds and other predators a chance to pick off the expose larvae and pupae. Mow as closely as possible to the edge of your garden to give cutworms less to feed on and less shelter near your plants. A three-foot wide (or more) bare-soil strip between your lawn and your garden plants makes it harder for larvae to reach your plants. It also gives you more of a chance to spot them. Wait as late as possible before setting out starts. Cutworms go on the move early in the growing season. Give them a chance to starve before you put out dinner. Place cardboard collars (or milk containers with the bottom cut out) around transplant stems at planting time. Be sure to work the collar into the soil at least an inch or two. Plant sunflowers along the edge of your garden. Sunflowers are a favorite target of cutworms. The plants will attract the larvae giving you a chance to pick them from the ground before they head to your corn.
Dealing with Infestations The presence of many birds feeding in the yard may indicate cutworms in your turf. Handpick caterpillars after dark. This is often most productive following a rain or thorough watering. Slow the progress of worms, who don’t like navigating dry soil, by watering in the morning then cultivating your garden’s walkways lightly to a depth of an inch or so. This cultivated soil will dry quickly while trapping moisture beneath it. Do not use mulch which gives the worms shelter. Beneficial nematodes released in moist, spring soil will attack and destroy cutworms living underground. They’re especially beneficial to apply the season after cutworms have been a problem.
At the first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps weekly for three consecutive weeks to parasitize cutworm eggs. Spreading a line of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants sets up a barrier to larvae. Diatomaceous earth, the fossilized, abrasive remains of prehistoric sea life, literally lets you draw a line in the dirt that’s deadly to any larvae that pass over. Scatter bran or corn meal mixed with Monterey Bt (Bt-kurstaki) and molasses on the soil surface to attract and kill caterpillars. Eco-Bran will also kill caterpillars that feed on it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cucumber beetles are found across the United States from Canada to Mexico and are either striped (Acalymma vittatum) or spotted (Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi). Both species feed primarily on the leaves, flowers and fruits of cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons). Alternate plant hosts include beans, corn, peanuts and potatoes.
Adult cucumber beetles (1/4 inch long) are yellowish-green in color with dark heads, legs and antennae. They have distinct black spots or lengthwise stripes on their wings. During the growing season, they are found feeding on seedlings, foliage, pollen and flowers causing greatly reduced yields and sometimes plant loss. The slender white larvae (up to 1/3 inch long), have brown ends and injure plants by feeding on roots and underground stems. Heavy larvae populations can reduce plant vigor and damage melon rinds making the produce unfit for consumption or market. Note: Adult and larval stages of the cucumber beetle transmit several plant diseases, including bacterial wilt and mosaic virus in cucurbits.
Life Cycle Adult beetles overwinter in plant debris and garden trash. Females leave their winter sites in early spring and deposit up to 800 orange-yellow eggs in the soil near the base of plants. In about 10 days hatching occurs and the larvae feed for three or more weeks before pupating. First generation adults emerge 10 days later. A complete life cycle requires 6-9 weeks. Up to four generations can be produced in a single growing season. Control Select resistant varieties whenever possible. Inspect plants frequently for beetles and handpick any that are discovered.
Floating row covers are extremely effective when placed on seedlings and left in place until plants are old enough to tolerate beetle damage. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, green lacewing and the spined soldier bug, will feed on pest eggs. Beneficial nematodes work well to curtail immature stages developing in the soil. When applied to plants, Surround WP (kaolin clay) leaves a fine powdery film that insects find unattractive for feeding and egg-laying. Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is approved for organic use and works on a long list of insects found on vegetable crops.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide. Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce overwintering sites.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common in vegetable gardens throughout North America, the corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) is one of the most destructive insect pests attacking corn. It’s also known to bore into other fruiting vegetables and feed on lettuce. One worm can do extensive damage, and often a single larvae is all that’s found on a fouled ear. The corn earworm is also a serious pest of cotton where it is known as the cotton bollworm. On tomatoes it is known as the tomato fruitworm.
Full grown larvae (1-1/2 inch long) are lightly striped and vary in color from a light green or pink to brown. They darken as they grow older. Adults are night-flying, dull greenish gray or brown moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with irregular darker lines and spots near the outer margins of the fore and hind wings. During the day they hide in nearby vegetation, but may occasionally be seen feeding on nectar. Note: Adult moths are good flyers, and able to move long distances. Each year they migrate from warm southern areas back to northern states where they are subject to winterkill.
Life Cycle In areas where this insect survives the winter, pupae hibernate in the soil. Adult moths emerge anywhere from February through June, depending upon temperatures, and deposit their eggs singly on corn silks and other plant parts. Each female can lay up to 3,000 eggs, which hatch in two to ten days. When larvae emerge, they burrow directly down through the silks into the ear tip, becoming fully grown in 3-4 weeks. Corn earworm are extremely cannibalistic, which tends to limit the number of larvae to one per ear. When full grown, they drop to the ground to enter the soil for pupation. Usually two generations develop in the north, with as many as six in the extreme south.
Damage Damage usually begins in the corn’s silk, where the moth deposits its eggs. The caterpillars follow the silk down to the ear, eating as they go. Extensive damage is often found at the ear’s tips, where the worms devour kernels and foul them with excrement. The larvae often destroy the silks before pollination is complete. The resulting ears are deformed and susceptible to mold and disease. Worm damage is often confined to the tip of corn ears and can easily be cut away. Worms frequently follow leaves down the ear, leaving excrement and settling into kernels well in from the tip. It doesn’t take much of this kind of damage to make the entire ear undesirable. Each year, copious amounts of pesticides are sprayed on commercial corn fields in attempts to kill larvae. Runoff from these sprayings contribute to watershed and water table contamination while the spray itself decimates beneficial insects. Genetically engineered corn, each kernel producing its own pesticide, was developed with corn earworms in mind.
Corn Earworm Control An Integrated Pest Management plan that deals with the earworm at all three stages is the best way for corn growers to combat them. As moths, corn earworms are great travelers. Continued vigilance is needed. Just because you had them well-managed the previous season doesn’t mean they won’t glide back in on the first warm breeze come springtime. Seasonal maintenance: Don’t mulch ahead of winter without first getting as many pupae as you might have out of the soil. Till your soil fall and spring to expose the pupae to wind, weather, birds and other predators.
Got chickens? Turn them loose after harvest to pick the grubs from your soil. Watching them work can be very entertaining! If you suspect your former corn patch might harbor corn earworm pupae, try broadcasting beneficial nematodes into moist soil well ahead of first frost. Word of mouth suggests this is a helpful component of any earworm IPM program. Spring moth arrival: Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Moths mostly fly under cover of night and go unspotted. At first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs. Growing season: Inspect silk for larvae, eggs regularly. Employ beneficial insects, such as green lacewings, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. All will feed on corn earworm eggs and small larvae. Spray or inject silks weekly with Beneficial Nematodes to control larvae.
If corn earworms persist, apply Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) to silks at 5-10% formation and continue weekly until tassels turn brown. Both products are listed in the Organic Materials Review Institute’s products certified for use in the USDA’s National Organic Program. Tip: When using mineral or vegetable oils to suffocate feeding larvae at the ear’s tips, include a botanical insecticide in the oil as an added punch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Now common throughout the United States, the imported cabbage worm (Pieris rapae) does great damage to brassica and other cabbage-family crops in fields and gardens where it gains a foothold. Although the larvae of this garden pest moves sluggishly, it is extremely destructive, especially later in the growing season when populations can build significantly.
The imported cabbageworm (1-1/4 inch long) is velvety green in color and has many short fine hairs and faint yellow strips down its side and back. It’s five sets of pro-legs are easily visible. Adults are white or pale yellow butterflies (1-2 inch wingspan) with three or four black spots on their wings. They are frequently noticed fluttering about the garden from early spring to late fall. Life Cycle Adult females emerge in early spring after over wintering as green pupae. They lay up to 200 tiny yellow eggs on host plants, usually on the undersides of leaves. These hatch in 7 or more days (depending on temperature) into young larvae caterpillars. The larvae feed heavily for 15 or more days, then pupate on lower leaf surfaces or nearby garden objects. During late spring and summer, the worm pupates for 10 days before a new generation of butterflies emerges. There are 3 to 5 overlapping generations each year, as many as 8 in warmer areas.
Damage In the larval stage, cabbage worms will feed on the surface layer of leaves, leaving behind a a translucent, tissue-like scars. As they grow, they chew large, irregular holes usually beginning on the outside leaves of cabbage and other cole and mustard crops (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, turnip, radish). As the worm feeds, it commonly bores into the center of cabbage heads contaminating them with its fecal pellets. The dark-green pellets can also be found in the crook of leaves near the stem.
Cabbageworm Control The imported cabbage worm is one of many worms that attack garden plants. Luckily, control tactics aimed at a particular worm, be they loopers, army worms, cut worms or diamond back moths, are usually effective against all. Early Season This insect has many natural enemies, including predatory beetles, spiders, yellow jackets, green lacewing and parasitic wasps. Birds also favor cabbage worms. Make sure your garden welcomes these creatures. And don’t use chemical sprays that might harm or destroy these natural predators. Protect plants with floating row covers to prevent adults from laying eggs.
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs. Predator wasps of various sorts, most indigenous to your garden, will seek-out the eggs of all types of worms. Help protect them by using something other than indiscriminate chemical pesticides. Herbalists report that moths are discouraged from laying eggs on cabbage sprayed with tansy oil or a strongly brewed tansy tea (because of the volatile oils it contains, tansy teas can be dangerous to humans, especially when consumed in quantity, and should be avoided; instead use it in your garden). Planting tansy near your cabbage crops can also discourage them. In an example of the two-way street nature of companion planting, tansy planted near cabbage does surprisingly well.
As soon as damage is noticed (large irregular holes in leaves, fecal pellets on plants and ground), begin handpicking caterpillars and destroying them. Late Season Chickens can be thorough pickers of cabbage worms. Ducks, too. Of course, they might also eat things you don’t want them to, especially early in the season when plants are still small. Wait until your plants are peck-able size and you’re sure you have a pest problem before unleashing the clucks and the quacks. Botanical insecticides — derived from plants which have insecticidal properties — have fewer harmful side effects and break down more quickly in the environment than synthetic chemicals. However, they are still toxic and should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried. Once worms are apparent, apply Garden Dust (Bt-kurstaki) to leaves where they’re seen. This naturally occurring soil bacteria, listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute, will take out the worms as they feed.
Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is made from fermentation. It doesn’t persist in the environment — crops are ready for harvest a day after application, and is a good substitute for Bt-kurstaki dusts. Fall Prevention To prevent overwintering pupae from emerging as adults in early spring, till under all garden debris to which they might attach. In places with milder winters, it may be necessary to remove the debris all together. Pay special attention to plants of the mustard family. They’re a favorite place for cabbage worm pupae to spend the winter. Worms will also retreat to garden margins and borders. Keep them clean and short to prevent overwintering there.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Widely distributed throughout North America, the cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) is a common and destructive pest most often found on cabbage-family, or cole crops. The larger its larvae grow the more damage they do. In the larval stage, cabbage loopers eat three-times their body weight in plant material a day, doing the most harm during the last few days of their development.
Loopers, commonly known as inch worms, are most easily recognized by their unique method of movement in which they double up or “loop” as they inch along. This characteristic trait comes from the absence of legs at the looping segments. The six-legged looper could use the eight that other leaf worms have. Larvae are large (1-1/2 inch long), pale green caterpillars with a narrow white stripe along each side and several narrow lines down the back. Adults are night-flying, gray moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with a silvery, V-shaped spot in the middle of each dusky forewing. Discerning cabbage loopers from the larvae of garden webworms, diamond back moths, and other inch worm type larvae is not critical to their mangement. The same integrated pest management practices work on them all.
Life Cycle Pupae spend winter attached to host plants or in nearby garden debris. Moths emerge in the spring and become widely dispersed including north into areas too cold for winter survival. The moths deposit pale green, domed eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch in 3 or 4 days. The destructive larval stage reaches full development in 2-4 weeks. They pupate in thin silk cocoons attached to the stems or undersides of leaves, and adults emerge within 10 days. Loopers as far north as Canada will go through two to three generations in a year and several generations per year are possible in warmer areas.
Damage Cabbage loopers occur as far south as Mexico and are established in commercial fields with insufficient rotation there and in the U.S. They mainly attack cabbage crops including broccoli, cauliflower and kale. Young larvae eat only from the bottom of leaves. Older larvae chew large, irregular holes in the leaves of many plants. Loopers bore into the center of cabbage heads leaving behind masses of wet, slimy fecal matter. Once established, loopers are difficult to get rid of. In addition to cruciferous plants, cabbage loopers will also attack lettuce, spinach, celery, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Each year, large amounts of pesticides are targeted at loopers on commercial fields, causing serious degradation of water and soil. Cabbage Looper Control Cabbage looper damage becomes ruinous at some point. Many gardeners tolerate a single tunnel into a cabbage (PDF) or irregular scars on their Brussel sprouts. This kind of damage may be unavoidable in the organic garden. But it’s important to take action at that point before eggs hatch and a second generation prepares to make slaw of what’s left. And an ounce of prevention? Well, you know what it’s worth.
Keep a close, frequent eye on your cabbage plants, both outside and under leaves. Pick off the hungry, inching larvae and brush off eggs before they start an outbreak. The larvae can be drowned in a jar of soapy water for easy disposal. Cabbage looper larvae are easy, visible targets for predators. Take advantage of its many natural enemies by encouraging birds and beneficial insects to your garden. Certain herbs, including parsley, dill, fennel, coriander and sweet alyssum, attract the kinds of insects and other creatures that prey on worms.
Use pheromone traps to signal the arrival of moths to your garden. Cover plants with floating row covers to keep migrating moths from landing and laying eggs. This can make a significant difference if timed correctly. Wasps are the looper larvae’s biggest enemy. Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs. The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on inch worms of all types. Use easily applied spray to hit worms and protect the leaves at the first signs of damage. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the U.S.D.A. National Organic Program and listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute. Other botanical insecticides, like Safer’s Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer or Pyrethrin Spray, can be used as a last resort. After harvest, bury spent cole crops to destroy cocoons before adults emerge in spring.
Rotating cabbage crops in a family sized garden is a good idea but not necessarily effective in preventing loopers on your plants. The night flying moths disperse widely and will find your vegetables no matter how far you’ve moved them. That’s why floating row covers to keep moths from landing on leaves and depositing eggs, are a good idea.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Blister beetles are a common field and garden pest best known for the welt-raising secretion they release when injured or crushed. The secretion contains a blistering agent known as catharidin, a substance used to treat the lesions caused by pox virus. Catharidin is so effective at destroying tissue that it’s used in wart removal products.
Catharidin is toxic if swallowed. It persists in dead beetles long after the hay they infested has been dried and baled. Horses are particularly susceptible to the poisoning. Depending on the type of beetle, as little as four to six grams of dead insects can be lethal. Humans who ingest the pest can expect severe damage to the urinary tract and gastrointestinal lining. Keep an eye on children who put things in their mouth if blister beetles may be present. In addition to the threat presented by its toxicity, the beetle does damage to both garden and commercial plants, consuming a variety of leaf crops, plant blossoms, landscape flowers and hay crops.
Proper identification of blister beetles in regards to various other kinds of non-toxic beetles that might resemble them, such as the asparagus beetle, is important to protecting livestock and preventing crop damage. There are some 250 kinds of blister beetles, members of the family Meloidaea, spread across the U.S. Various types of the beetle are common in the east, south and midwest. They’re also found in the grasslands of the west and southwest, and in gardens along the Pacific coast. Adult blister beetles vary in size and coloring. Most are one-half to one inch long with long, soft bodies and wide heads with antennae a third as long as their bodies. The prothorax between the head and the body is narrow and resembles a neck. The wing covers are soft and flexible, and the legs are relatively long.
Coloring can be bright and variegated, striped or flat. Striped blister beetles are shades of gray and brown with yellow stripes running lengthwise on its wing covers. The ash-gray blister beetle is completely gray. The black blister is completely black. The margined blister beetle is black with a gray to cream band around the edge of each wing cover. The University of Illinois Crop Sciences division has illustrations of these four common types here (notice how tightly their wing covers come together). And here’s an illustrated list of various blister beetles found in Florida that can also be found elsewhere in the U.S. Life Cycle Adults begin laying eggs in mid to late spring and continue through most of the season. A female will lay one or two hundred eggs less than a millimeter wide and one to two millimeters long just beneath the soil surface. The eggs hatch in two weeks or less.
The emerging white larvae have relatively long legs which they use to seek out clusters of grasshopper eggs to eat. They go through various instars or stages as they feed, losing their mobility and feeding less as they mature. Some larvae will go through six and seven instars before pupating but most go through four or five. The larvae darken as they mature. Adults emerge from the pupae stage after ten days. Larvae reaching pupae stage in the fall can overwinter just beneath the soil. They commonly live as long as three months. Females are able to produce multiple egg clusters throughout their lives. Damage It’s toxic effect on livestock, known as cantharidin toxicosis, is the greatest threat posed by blister beetles. Infestations of alfalfa and other hay can ruin it for sale or feeding.
Growers of hay and feed crops should take all precautions (short pdf, scroll down) to monitor and prevent infestations. The beetles tend to cluster together as they feed, increasing the chances that one or two hay bales will contain concentrations of the insects. Care should be taken when buying hay as well. Find out if blister beetle infestation can be a problem in your area and inspect what you buy carefully. Blister beetles will feed on just about any leaf that grows in your garden. They’re found on tomato, potato, eggplant, peppers and other solanaceous vegetables as well leafy greens. In mid and late summer, they can arrive in swarms, seemingly overnight and because of their numbers, will do great damage in a short time. Blister beetles also do damage to grasshoppers, one of the most destructive farm and garden pests. Newly hatched beetle larvae use their legs to seek out clusters of grasshopper eggs to feed on. In this sense, blister beetles can be considered a beneficial insect, but only in the larval stage. Once they become adults, they’re nothing but trouble.
Control Frequent and careful inspection of home gardens can go a long way towards controlling beetle damage. Their numbers increase gradually in the growing season’s early months, and an observant gardener can keep them from doing much damage. Come July, a garden can be suddenly over taken by hordes of leaf-munching beetles. They usually work in large clusters, gathered on the edge of potato patches and lettuce rows. It’s best to remove as many beetles and the plants they’ve damaged as soon as they’re spotted and before they spread. Once well-established, they are almost impossible to eradicate completely, even if chemical or other toxic sprays are used. Hand-picking can be effective in home gardens, particularly when their numbers are low. But never handle blister beetles with bare hands. Always wear gloves. Brush the beetles off plants into a small container with some soapy water. If shaken from plants, the beetles will often lie in the dirt and play possum rather than scurry away. Take advantage and gather them carefully.
Keep the range and numbers of beetles down by spreading diatomaceous earth around threatened plants or use it as a barrier in raised beds or other small plots. Oyster shell lime can also be used as a barrier but is not as an effective killer of beetles and functions mostly as a repellent. (It’s also helpful for maintaining proper soil pH.) Beetle infestation often occur at the edges of gardens or in surrounding vegetation. Keep grass, weeds and other growth trimmed around the margins of your garden to remove the places where they might get started. Well-anchored row covers can keep migrating beetles off your plants in the mid to late summer. They will not stop early season adults who over-winter as late stage larvae in the soil. Use them if you notice clusters of beetles (or expect them) in and around your garden come July. Pigweed (Amaranthus spp.) (PDF) is highly attractive to adult beetles. Keep it out of your landscape entirely. Suggest your neighbors do the same. Ironweed (Vernonia spp.) and ragweed (Ambrosia spp.) will also draw beetles.
Birds will take blister beetles right off your plants. Encourage them to visit and feed in your garden. Respect them by not using sprays or chemicals that might do them harm. If handpicking doesn’t keep their numbers down, use sprays containing Spinosad, an OMRI-listed biopesticide that kills within 24 to 48. Spinosad breaks down into inert ingredients within two or so days when exposed to sunlight, keeping it out of the water supply. It’s non-toxic to birds and fish but can harm honeybees when first applied. Read the product label and time your applications accordingly. Grasshoppers attract blister beetles whose larvae feed on the grasshopper’s eggs. Keep grasshoppers down using Semaspore Bait or other natural grasshopper controls. This is especially important in hay crops grown for feed. Presence of grasshoppers in feed crops can be a tip-off to early stages of blister beetle infestations.
Most controls for feed and grass crops, including spraying, can’t entirely eliminate the insects or the threat they pose. Keep an eye on your fields, especially at the edges and clear out any sections in which beetles appear. When haying, avoid using implements such as hay crimpers that may crush the insects. If you noticed beetles in your fields, let cut hay lie for two or more days to allow them time to abandon the hay. First cuttings, made before the beetles have increased their numbers, are generally safer than cuttings from later in the season. Finding a reputable grower is your best bet when buying hay. Even the most careful examination of bales and hay flakes may not reveal a hidden danger. Know your farmer well enough that you trust her when you ask about signs of beetles in her crop. The best answer is no.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A pest throughout most of the United States, black vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) attack over 100 different kinds of ornamental plants including rhododendrons, azaleas, yews and hemlocks. When weevils enter greenhouses or indoor gardens they are damaging to begonias, ferns and other common container plants. They are particularly damaging to cyclamens and are often called the “cyclamen grub.”
Adult black vine weevils (3/4 inch long) are large slate-gray to black insects that cannot fly. They have short, broad snouts, bent or “elbowed” antennae and patches of short hairs on their wings. Adults feed at night, damaging plants as they chew small notches in the edges of leaves. During the day, they hide in soil cracks, garden debris and mulch.
Larvae cause the greatest level of injury to plants. They are small (1/2 inch long), white, C-shaped grubs that tunnel through roots as they feed. Leaves will often wilt (even when properly watered) and plants may be stunted or die. Larvae may also girdle the main stem just below the soil line. Life Cycle Black vine weevils overwinter as nearly grown larvae in the soil around the roots of host plants. In spring they change to pupae and begin emerging as adults. In two or more weeks (depending on temperature) they begin depositing eggs near the crowns of the host plants. Hatching occurs in about 10 days, and the tiny larvae burrow into the soil and begin feeding. One generation per year.
Vine Weevil Control Remove mulch and other hiding places from around plants and water only when necessary (larvae and adults prefer moist soil). As non-flying insects, weevils travel from plant to plant by walking. It stands to reason then, that Tanglefoot Sticky Barrier should form the first line of defense. Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting pest protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Immature stages of the black vine weevil are particularly vulnerable to attack by beneficial nematodes, especially in potted plants. Fast-acting crack and crevice sprays, like Don’t Bug Me, can be used around windows, doors and vents to prevent adult weevils from entering structures. Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment. Tip: Place burlap fabric at the bases of trees and shrubs to trap weevils that hide under it during the day.
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