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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Homemade remedies are a longstanding tradition among organic gardeners, who have had to be creative in finding ways to battle insects and diseases without the help of synthetic chemicals. In the case of fighting aphids, two homemade sprays have proven very effective in controlling aphid infestations. Organic gardeners have been using tomato leaf spray or garlic oil spray to battle aphids for generations.
While knowing how to make and use them is important, it's equally important to understand why they work. Tomato Leaf Spray Tomato plants, as members of the nightshade family, contain toxic compounds called alkaloids in their leaves. When the leaves of tomato plants are chopped, they release their alkaloids. When the alkaloids are suspended and diluted with water, they make an easy to use spray that is toxic to aphids, but still safe around plants and humans.
How to Make Tomato Leaf Spray Simply chop one or two cups of tomato leaves and soak them in two cups of water. Let it steep overnight. Strain out the leaves using cheesecloth or a fine strainer; then add another one to two cups of water to the liquid and add it to a spray bottle.
Applying Tomato Leaf Spray Use the mixture by spraying the stems and foliage of the infested plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves since that is where aphids most commonly congregate. One word of caution, while this spray is very safe for humans, some people are allergic to members of the nightshade family. If you are one of them, use care in making and applying this spray.
Garlic Oil Spray Organic gardeners have long relied on garlic as part of their pest-fighting arsenal. Garlic contains sulfur, which, besides being toxic to pests, is also an antibacterial and antifungal agent. The dish soap in this mixture also breaks down the bodies of soft-bodied pests, such as aphids.
How to Make Garlic Oil Spray To make garlic oil spray, mince or finely chop three to four cloves of garlic, and add them to two teaspoons of mineral oil. Let this mixture sit for 24 hours. Strain out the garlic pieces, and add the remaining liquid to one pint of water. Add one teaspoon of liquid dish soap. This mixture can be stored and diluted as needed.
Applying Garlic Oil Spray Before using this spray test it by spraying an inconspicuous part of the plant. If there are no signs of yellowing or other leaf damage after a day or two, it is safe to use. If there is leaf damage, dilute the mixture with more water and try the test again. Once you have determined that it won't harm your plant, spray the entire plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
A word of caution about this spray, garlic oil is a non-selective insecticide. It will kill beneficial insects (such as ladybugs, who are natural predators of aphids) just as easily as it kills the bad guys. It's best to keep as many beneficial insects around as possible. This spray should only be used if you haven't seen any beneficial bugs in your garden. The tomato leaf recipe, above, won't harm beneficial bugs, so you should use that if you're lucky enough to have some in your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Creeping Charlie, or "ground ivy" is an aromatic, perennial, evergreen creeper of the mint family that thrives particularly in moist, shady areas, although it will also take some sun. Native to Europe and known by the botanical name, Glechoma hederacea, it has naturalized in North America, where it has become a hard-to-kill weed common in lawns. Its range in the U.S. includes every state except for three states in the southern portion of the Rocky Mountains.
Part of the reason why the plant is invasive and why it is so hard to kill creeping Charlie is the variety of ways it has to spread. It spreads both by seeding and by rooting at the nodes that stud its little vines (which means you can spread it via mowing without even realizing it, unless you mow with a bag attachment). It can also spread by rhizomes, a fact to keep in mind when you're trying to dig it out. Leaving behind just a fragment of rhizome results in the birth of a new plant.
Killing Creeping Charlie Naturally, With Chemicals People often wonder how to get rid of creeping Charlie (although, at the end of the article, you will read about its benefits, as well as some of the history behind this interesting weed). So let's take a look at both some chemical and natural ways of controlling it. First of all, you may have heard of the well-known home remedy for killing creeping Charlie that involves using a solution with Borax, so let's deal with it briefly here. This method has fallen out of favor, because, unless you use scientific precision in mixing the solution and applying it evenly onto the creeping Charlie plants, you can end up with a case of boron toxicity in your soil. But for those who are curious, Iowa State University's Richard Jauron says to Dissolve 10 ounces of Borax into 4 ounces of warm water. Then make a further dilution by mixing this solution into 2 1/2 gallons of water (this amount would provide coverage for an area of 1,000 square feet).
Assuming you're not willing to risk boron toxicity, let's look at some other ways to kill creeping Charlie, both naturally and with chemicals. One factor that may help you decide on your control method is just how badly the weed has taken over the area in question. If the invasion is really bad, you may opt for a method that kills everything in the area, after which you would simply begin afresh from square one (whether it be starting a new lawn or starting a new garden). If you do not mind using chemicals, you could spray a glyphosate-based herbicide, such as Roundup, onto a lawn in such cases. Wait about a week before reseeding a lawn after using glyphosate.
Many gardeners prefer weed control without chemicals. At the very least, you should be looking for natural ways to kill creeping Charlie in garden areas. If the weed has totally taken over your garden beds, consider the following ways to kill creeping Charlie naturally (you can also use these methods on a weed-infested lawn that you've given up on, if you wish to avoid chemicals): Smothering with newspapers. Smothering with tarps, as you would in eradicating Japanese knotweed. But what if the infestation isn't too bad? How can you get rid of small patches of creeping Charlie, removing it in a very targeted way that allows you to keep your current lawn or garden bed (instead of having to begin all over)? For chemical control on the lawn, seek a selective broadleaf herbicide intended for use in killing creeping Charlie. Apply it around the time of the first frost in fall. Consult the label on the product to make sure the herbicide is effective against this particular weed (triclopyr, for example, is an active ingredient in some of the herbicides to which creeping Charlie is not resistant). While you're reading the label, also check: That it's meant for use on the type of grass that you grow.
When and how to apply. Safety precautions to take. For natural control (in either lawn or garden), good old-fashioned weeding (hand-pulling) is your best choice. The problem with hand-pulling, though, is that you have to be determined to stick with it. It's not a magic bullet: The weed most likely will return after the first hand-pulling, because the tiniest piece of rhizome left behind will eventually shoot up as a new plant. Keep an eye on the area so that you can catch any new shoot that comes up as soon as possible and remove it. It's hard work, but you will eventually wear the weed down. An Herb With a Tale to Tell: History, Benefits With all of the effort it takes to kill creeping Charlie, you may be surprised to learn that it was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. Once you learn about the history of creeping Charlie's uses, some of that surprise should wear off, though. But before you hear that story, let's back up. You need to know a bit more information about the traits of this fascinating weed.
Creeping Charlie has a square stem that varies in length from a few inches to 2 feet. The color of its leaves also varies, from dark green to purple. The funnel-shaped flowers have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground, making it something of a wild groundcover. A somewhat slower-growing type of creeping Charlie with two-toned leaves and suited to planting zones 4-9 is sold at some garden centers. Grow it in a container garden (which will check its spread) on a deck or patio, and give it full sun to discourage its leaves from reverting back to their natural green color.
The plant's uses for treating ailments have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. The famous Greco-Roman doctor, Galen, for instance, recommended it for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommended creeping Charlie for ringing in the ears. Never is it wise, however, to eat any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming informed about its properties. If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be used, whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink. Common Names, How It Differs From Creeping Jenny, and Whether It's Poisonous It wasn't only as a healing herb that the plant was prized, traditionally. The Saxons used creeping Charlie to clarify their beers, in the same way that hops vine is now used. In fact, an alternate common name for the plant is "gill" (or "gill-over-the-ground"), which comes from the French word that means "to ferment beer" (guiller).
Sometimes, this weed is also referred to as "creeping Jenny," but that nickname is more commonly reserved for Lysimachia nummularia. Novices may think the two weeds look alike, but, if you take a closer look, you can easily tell the two apart: Creeping Jenny's leaf does not have the scalloped edges that creeping Charlie's does. Yet another common name for this perennial lawn weed is "catsfoot" (its leaf is more or less the shape and size of a kitten's paw). But don't let the innocent-sounding name fool you: Cats, dogs, and various other animals can get sick by eating large amounts of creeping Charlie. So can humans. According to the University of Illinois Extension, there are compounds in creeping Charlie that are poisonous, being harmful to "the liver, gastrointestinal tract and kidneys."
When a plant has this many nicknames, you can be pretty sure of two things: It's widespread, and people have interacted with it in a number of ways over a long period of time. Creeping Charlie, the despised lawn weed, the invasive alien that we spend so much time battling, is just such a plant. Do you enjoy the fragrance of a freshly mown lawn? Most people do. Well, wait until you have mown a patch of lawn that has some creeping Charlie growing in it. You haven't smelled anything yet until you've experienced the aroma of freshly mown creeping Charlie. Truly one of the joys of summer, smelling the aroma of these fragrant plants almost makes the boring chore of mowing the lawn worthwhile.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Botrytis blight is a cruel disease for flower gardeners, because it frequently strikes garden plants in their prime, destroying blossoms just as they are ready to open. Botrytis, also called grey mold, is a fungal disease, and gardeners can recognize it when they see these symptoms in plants: Spotting or discoloration on leaves Wilting or decaying leaves and shoots Leaf drop Fuzzy grayish brown growth on flowers and foliage Flower buds that fail to open Rotting flower buds Damping off disease of seedlings Botrytis thrives in high humidity and cool weather, so gardeners will see signs of grey mold most often on spring flowers.
Flowers Affected by Botrytis In the outdoor flower garden, marigolds, impatiens, peonies and roses are the most likely plants to show signs of botrytis. In the greenhouse, several flowers are susceptible to this fungus, especially cyclamen, geraniums, and poinsettia. Seedlings that often succumb to damping off disease caused by botrytis fungi include pansies, petunias, and snapdragons.
Organic Sprays for Botrytis Sulfur powders and sprays are effective at controlling fungal diseases like botrytis in the flower garden. Apply sprays early in the morning or evening to avoid harming bees or beneficial insects. A less common, but very effective organic treatment against foliage diseases in the flower garden is the bacterium Bacillus subtilis, sold under the trade name Serenade. Many gardeners report that the fragrance of this spray is less offensive compared to other organic or conventional fungicide sprays.
Cultural Control of Botrytis When you notice the first signs of botrytis in the flower garden, get out the clippers. Remove all affected foliage and flowers, and destroy the plant matter. Sanitize clippers with an alcohol wipe after pruning diseased plants to prevent spreading the fungi to healthy plants. It’s also important to keep the ground around plants free of decaying leaves, which act like a nursery for fungal spores. Although you can’t do anything about humid conditions in your area, you can help plants cope with excessive moisture. Use drip irrigation, which delivers water to the root zone where it's needed and keeps leaves dry. Avoid overhead watering, which can splash disease-carrying soil onto leaves. Water in the morning to allow the sun's rays to quickly evaporate any moisture on leaves. Follow proper plant spacing guidelines, to enhance air circulation. Prune the interior of dense plants to increase air movement that carries away disease spores.
Greenhouse Botrytis Management The principles of botrytis management in the greenhouse are similar to those in the garden, but greenhouse gardeners can control the greenhouse environment more than the outdoors. Use fans of adequate size and number for the greenhouse size. You should aim for a relative humidity below 80%, and completely changing the air three one to three times an hour should help to achieve this. Your greenhouse retailer can help you calculate fans needed according to the cubic feet of your greenhouse. Raise the temperature of the greenhouse at sunset to dry condensation on leaves. This is especially important in the winter. Isolate plants showing signs of botrytis from the greenhouse population. Destroy the plants on inexpensive specimens that you can easily replace; this prevents widespread, more costly outbreaks.
Conventional Control of Botrytis Severe botrytis outbreaks may require fungicide applications to achieve control of the disease. Botrytis can become resistant to chemicals, so switching it up occasionally may achieve better control. Gardeners should look for fungicides that contain one of these active ingredients: Chlorothalonil Fenhexamid Fludioxonil Myclobutanil
Botrytis Resistant Flowers to Grow Unfortunately, horticulturists haven’t developed any completely botrytis-resistant flower species. 'Fantasy Blue' petunias and 'Tidal Wave Pink' petunias are two varieties that are more resistant to flower blight than older petunia varieties. Peony lovers may have more luck with tree peonies and intersectional hybrids than with P. lactiflora garden peonies. Gardeners must continue to battle this tenacious fungal flower disease by practicing good garden and greenhouse hygiene and cultural practices.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Spotting Spider Tree Mites in the Garden Spider tree mites are among the most commonly found pests in gardens. Hundreds of different species are categorized as spider mites, which are members of the Tetranychidae family. These critters can damage plants by sucking on the tissues, mainly in the leaves. The mites often cluster on the undersides of the leaves.
Eight-legged arachnids, they belong to the same class as spiders and are closely related to ticks. Like spiders, they will produce webbing on the plant. Spider mites come in a wide variety of colors, including red, yellow, green and brown. Some even change colors throughout the year, while others are translucent. Use the tips that follow to identify signs of an infestation, the common trees spider mites target and the different ways to control them.
Signs of a Spider Mite Infestation Spider tree mites leave visible signs of damage to trees. If your leaves develop yellow, orange, brown or gray spots, an infestation may be at work. Other signs of infestation include the following: Leaf drop Webbing covering the plant Visual confirmation of the presence of mites Common Tree and Shrub Hosts
While any tree or shrub may fall prey to spider mites, some often serve as hosts. They include: Broadleaf evergreens Elms Evergreens Fruit trees Honeylocust Maples Mountain ash Oaks Roses
Try Biological Controls First Several different insects and arachnids are natural predators of spider mites. Encourage these helpers by limiting the use of chemicals in the garden. Natural predators include: Big-eyed bugs (Geocoris spp.) Gall midge (Feltiella acari Suga) Lacewings (Chrysopa spp.) Minute pirate bugs (Orius app) Predatory mites (Phytoseiidae Family) Predatory thrips (Scolothrips spp.) Spider mite destroyer (Stethorus app. - a genus of lady beetle)
Organic Controls Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are organic methods for controlling spider mites. For example, oil from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica) can be used as an organic miticide. The timing of when you apply these oils depends on the product used, so consult with someone at your local garden center, nursery or extension center to figure out the right one for your situation. Combining a couple of tablespoons of natural soap in a quart of water provides an inexpensive and safe way to attack spider mites. Don't add extra soap, as too much may cause leaf damage. For an added punch, include garlic or cayenne.
Water as a Control Spider mites attack plants that are suffering from drought, so proper watering is essential to help ward off these invaders. Water is also useful in controlling spider mite infestations on houseplants, where it is harder to bring in natural predators and the use of chemicals is undesirable. Use a faucet or hose to knock off mites and webbing, making sure to hit both sides of the leaves. You could also set it in a bathtub to help make this process less messy, if indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ick. I hate spider mites. They are a plague, particularly on the container gardens that I try to overwinter inside. I have had them infest several fruit trees, including, Meyer lemon, lime, kumquat and orange. It could be that all these trees became infested because of their close proximity to each other. However, once one plant gets spider mites they can infest all of your plants pretty quickly.
Unfortunately, it's very hard to get rid of spider mites and sometimes, you just have to pitch plants that get them. Be careful, if you do have to get rid of plants that are infested, do not compost them. Sadly the best way to get rid of them is to either throw them way out in the woods, or put them in plastic bags and put them in the garbage. Identifying a Spider Mite Infestation - Spider mites are tiny - smaller than the head of a pin - so it's hard to see them. To identify an infestation, you can check to see if there is webbing on your plants particularly at the intersection of branches. Another, sign, after the spider mites have infested a plant, is to see leaves that are spotted or speckled looking. Spider mights can range in color from red to light brown, yellow to green.
Getting Rid of Spider Mites - Like most plant pests, you a have much better chance dealing with spider mites before you have an all out infestation. The more mites, the more eggs and the harder it is to control them. My first line of defense, with almost any insect problem in my containers (though spider mites aren't actually classified as an insect, but as an arachnid), is to spray them with a hose, trying to knock as many insects off as possible--making sure to spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops. Once the plant is dry, I try an insecticidal soap spray. With large plants, it's hard to get good coverage all over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves, but do the best you can. I like to use insecticidal soap instead of a pesticide because it doesn't harm beneficial insects and is listed as ok for organic gardening. After insecticidal soap, I try neem oil or a neem oil combination. A disadvantage of neem oil is some people don't like the smell and it can be sticky and get on walls and furniture. Another thing to try is a pyrethrin insecticide, which is somewhat more toxic than the neem oil and insecticidal soap, but is still considered "natural" pesticide because it is made from chrysanthemums.
Be Persistent - Chances are you will have to keep spraying your spider mite infested plant every seven to ten days in order to interrupt the cycle of eggs hatching. Also, make sure to spray the soil as well as the entire plant. When to Give Up - To be honest, there is no absolute answer to this unless your plant is completely dead--even then, plants can surprise you and bounce back. I have battled spider mites through the winter and then have taken plants that looked like they were at death's door, cut them back severely in the spring, and then put them outside. Some of the plants rebounded gorgeously, thriving throughout the summer. However, on bringing them back inside, the mites returned with a vengeance. But I have a hard time giving up on beloved plants, so I tend to keep them limping along, way past when it is practical.
How to Prevent Spider Mites from Attacking Your Plants - Prevention is always the preferred option when it comes to mites. Before you buy a plant, look for the tell-tale signs of spotted leaves or webbing. If you see any indication of mites, don't buy the plant or any plants nearby. Also, mites like dry and dusty conditions, so keep your plants hydrated and healthy, and a level of humidity in the air, so the conditions will be inhospitable to mites.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hopefully, your trees and shrubs will never be attacked by beetles. They bore into the plant, destroying the nutrient transport system and weakening the overall health. If the infestation is serious enough, death may occur. They are very hard to control, but here are some ways to get rid of beetles:
Choose Trees and Shrubs Wisely and Keep Them Healthy This may seem very obvious, but it's best if you take steps to try not to have a beetle infestation at all. This begins by choosing trees and shrubs that are adapted to growing in your area; species that are poorly adapted will struggle and have health issues. Make sure it is planted properly and watered well to help limit the amount of stress the tree goes through. If you keep the plant healthy, it has a much better chance of not being attacked, and a better chance of surviving if it is. Keep the tree or shrub free of cuts and breaks. Do not do your pruning when beetles are known to be in the area. Don't leave newly cut firewood nearby, as this will provide a place for the beetles to breed.
Different beetles attack different kinds of trees and shrubs, so don't plant the kinds affected if there have been known infestations in the area. You can also try species known to have some resistance. Hire a Licensed Pesticide Applicator to Apply Appropriate Pesticides It is difficult to control beetles using chemical means unless the beetle attacks are detected very early. The pesticides used are also very expensive and not usually available to homeowners. However, if you have valuable trees that you would like to try to save, call in a licensed pesticide applicator. They may be able to save trees by spraying the trunks when the adults are flying. Trees and shrubs that were attacked in the past but no longer have beetles should not be sprayed.
Neither should you spray species that are not affected by the type of beetle present. Trees that are highly infested cannot be saved by pesticides. Prune Away Affected Branches If the beetle problem is noticed early enough, you can prune off any branches that have been attacked. However, you should be careful when doing this, as new pruning wounds may attract more beetles. Learn the months when the adult beetles are flying and try to avoid pruning during those times.
Cut Down Affected Trees and Shrubs Sadly, cutting down the affected trees or shrubs is the only sure-fire way of controlling beetles in most cases. Usually, by the time the problem is noticed, the infestation is too widespread to be controlled. Pesticides are not able to wipe out large beetle populations, nor pruning if the whole plant is affected.
If you have many susceptible trees together, thinning them out can help improve the chances of the remaining trees' survival. Cut down the affected tree or shrub entirely and destroy the wood. The pieces should be chipped or burned to destroy any beetle larvae. Be sure to move it far away from your remaining trees and shrubs or the beetles may find a new home.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
The imported Viburnum Leaf Beetle (VLB), a native of both Europe and Asia, was first spotted in North America in 1978, in the Ottawa-Hull region of Canada. Since then, it has been making its way south from Canada into the U.S. Viburnums have always been considered exceptionally pest free landscape plants, but this new pest is challenging that assumption. The VLB is a close relative of the more common elm leaf beetle and can very quickly strip the leaves from viburnums plants.
Both the larva and the adult beetle feed on viburnum leaves, skeletonizing them in a relatively short time. Initial infestations will not kill the plants, but defoliation for 2 - 3 consecutive years can be fatal. What Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Look Like? Viburnum leaf beetles are rather bland looking for an exotic pest and can be easily missed. The adults are about a 1/4 inch long (4.5 to 6.5 mm) and a dull brown, as are the tiny eggs. The larvae are a greenish-yellow, somewhat blending in with the foliage. They grow to about ½ inch long. Invasive.org has some great pictures of the various stages of the viburnum leaf beetle, which will help with identification.
Does the Viburnum Leaf Beetle Feed On All types of Viburnum? Currently, the VLB has three favorite varieties of viburnum plants: European highbush cranberry (Viburnum opulus) Wayfaringtree viburnum (Viburnum lantana) Rafinesque viburnum (Viburnum rafinesquianum) Viburnum Leaf Beetle Lifecycle The beetles overwinter as eggs deposited in the branches. They hatch in May and the larvae then feeds on the new leaves. Since the newly emerged larvae are so small, the first signs of injury may be missed, as the damage can appear as holes no larger than pin holes. Within a month, skeletonizing will be hard to miss.
It takes about 8-10 weeks for the VLB to go from egg to adult. Sometime in June, the larvae will make their way to the ground, where they will pupate in the soil. The adult VLB emerges in the latter part of July and continues feeding on viburnums. The female VLB can lay eggs from late summer to the first frost, sometimes as many as 500 eggs per season. She chews holes in the new growth of viburnum and lays eggs in each hole. The holes are then covered with a mix of chewed twig and excrement, making them harder to notice. However, the holes will be made in a straight line on the underside of the twig.
How to Control Viburnum Leaf Beetle Damage The best protection against VLB is to plant resistant varieties. These include some of the most popular landscape viburnums, including: Doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) Korean Spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum) Cornell’s VLB Citizen Science lists those most resistant and varieties to avoid or monitor closely.
If you already have viburnums in your landscape, keep a close watch. In the early spring, before the eggs hatch in May, closely examine the small twigs from the previous year’s growth for egg laying holes and scars. Warmer temperatures will cause the holes to swell and the caps may fall off. You will need to prune out and destroy all infested wood before the eggs hatch. A the new leaves begin to open, check both sides of the leaves for larvae and again prune and destroy infested plant parts. Chemical pesticides are most effective when applied while the larvae are young. Adults tend to fly away or drop to the ground when disturbed. Check with your local Extension Service for recommended pesticides.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A reader from Charleston, South Carolina wrote in to say, "My Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) has yellow leaves. Is it dying?" The reader had had this balled-and-burlapped specimen for two years; it had been 5 feet tall when installed.
More specifically, this Charleston resident complained of not only sparse flowering in the tree's second spring, but also -- and more worrisome to this gardener -- "yellow leaves in fall that drop off of the tree" (note that this species is evergreen). So what could be the cause of this? Possible Reasons Why a Southern Magnolia Has Yellow Leaves First of all, you need to rule out a nutrient deficiency in your soil. Yellow leaves on Southern magnolias can indicate that your soil has insufficient nitrogen. The only way to determine for sure whether or not this is the problem is to have a soil test done. If the test results do, in fact, show a nitrogen deficiency, you can fertilize accordingly to raise the nitrogen level. The nitrogen content of a fertilizer is indicated by the first number in the NPK sequence, which should be printed somewhere on the fertilizer bag.
Let's assume that you have had a soil test done and have been able to rule out nitrogen deficiency. What else could be the problem? Sometimes, when Southern magnolia trees develop yellow leaves (often accompanied by the presence of spots), it is only as a prelude to natural shedding (which happens periodically). However, this seems to occur more often in the spring. With the reader reporting seeing the yellow leaves in fall, it makes one think there could perhaps be a problem with her Southern magnolia in terms of water and/or drainage. Let's expand on that observation. Too much or too little water are both possibilities, whether you irrigate yourself and/or rely on rainfall.
But the issue of water is inextricably intertwined with that of drainage. Why? Because even if there is sufficient water, if it percolates through the ground too rapidly, the Southern magnolia tree would not be able to take full advantage of it. Conversely, if the drainage is impeded by an overly clayey soil, and you get a lot of rain and/or overwater your specimen, the roots will "drown." Either extreme is bad news. If you think drainage is an issue, you may want to transplant your tree to another area, after first preparing the soil for optimal drainage. A loamy soil is ideal.
Growing Information for Southern Magnolia Trees Popular in the American Southeast, to which region these plants are indigenous, Southern magnolia trees are best grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 7-9. Grow them in full sun to partial shade. Since they like fertile soil, ideal growing conditions would include a soil enriched with compost. They like a soil pH that is on the acidic side.
These trees are classified as broadleaf evergreens. They can grow to be as high as 80 feet tall. The fragrant flowers are white. Bloom time is late spring. Even the cone-like structure left over after flowering is attractive; it can be as much as 5 inches long. If you live in the North and wish to grow a Southern magnolia, look for 'Bracken’s Brown Beauty,' a cold-hardy cultivar, which is suitable for all the way up to zone 5b.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
What do yellow leaves mean on Rose of Sharon plants that you're watering well? Perhaps you're watering your rose of Sharon plants too well!
Over-Watering is as Bad as Under-Watering Over-watering plants is an extremely common problem, and one of the signs is yellow leaves (when they should be green). The roots of plants not tolerant of waterlogged soil won't be able to "breathe," and they die of a lack of oxygen. Ironically, after the roots "drown" in this manner, you'll see the "drying up" of the leaves because the now debilitated roots won't be able to make use of all that water.
Drainage is Key You may truly think that you're not over-watering; but if your soil isn't well-drained, the roots still could, in fact, be resting in waterlogged soil. If your case is, indeed, a case of poorly-drained soil, your best recourse would be to transplant the rose of Sharon plants to an area where the soil is well-drained. Prepare the area now, in the summer (peat moss can be mixed into the soil to improve drainage), and do the transplanting in autumn, once the weather cools off.
Why Only Some Plants are Dying Are some of your plants thriving while others are showing yellow leaves and dying out? What seems a 'random' dying out might not really be so, at all. Let me draw an analogy. In a group of 20 people who smoke tobacco, some might die of cancer in their fifties, others might do so in the seventies, and still others might live to a ripe old age without becoming cancerous.
We aren't all alike, and even folks with very similar genetic makeups are subject to different environmental influences. To some degree, the same is true of plants. For all you know, the rose of Sharon plants that have survived till now may have gotten off to better starts as 'babies' and are simply a bit more resilient than those that have already died from the over-watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
I've gotten a few questions over the past week or two from readers who have noticed white, fuzzy mold growing on their seedlings. This is a fairly common issue for those who start their own plants from seeds. Most of us plant our seeds and take care to keep the seedlings moist, but that can cause the white fuzzy mold to appear on them.
There is good news for your seedlings--and your garden, too. The fungus itself is not going to hurt your seedlings. The bad news: that fungus is a sign that your soil is too wet. Soil that is too wet can result in having the delicate roots of your seedlings rot, which will eventually result in plant death.
How to Stop White Fuzzy Mold on Seedlings Luckily, the mold is an easy thing to fix. Chances are, you are causing the mold by watering too much. Don't water your plants-to-be unless the seedlings really need it. It is easy to get into a routine of just giving them a quick water every day or so "just to be sure," but this can sometimes do more harm than good. Check the soil's moisture with your finger; only water if the soil is dry. That simple check can help you stop the white fuzzy mold from growing.
Rethink how much you water when you do water. You may simply need to cut down the amount of water you put on each seedling--another way to reduce white fuzzy mold for healthier seedlings. Another thing that can help kill off the mold and prevent it from growing is to increase the air flow around your seedlings. You can do this by having a fan running nearby for at least a few hours a day. Not only does this help prohibit fungal growth, but it also results in sturdier seedlings. Additionally, you may want to look at how much light the seedlings are getting. They need at least twelve hours of good, strong light per day to grow well.
That also helps the water to dissipate and not sit stagnant. Try not to place them in direct sunlight, either, because covered trays can get too hot and damage the seedlings. Check the temperature, too. The best photosynthesis occurs when the temperature stays between 77°F and 82°F). Finally, if at all possible, consider a system that lets you water from the bottom of the seedling container. This not only encourages the roots to grow deeper. It also helps alleviate mold and fungus because the surface of the soil is not constantly moist, so it cannot grow. Once you do one or all of those things, you can actually remove the white mold from your seedlings. Gently scrape it away with a knife or spoon.
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