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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
The squash bug is primarily a garden pest, but because it can overwinter in the walls of buildings, it can become a nuisance when it moves into the home seeking warmth and shelter as the weather turns cold. Once inside, the bugs can stay active throughout the winter.
Identification The squash bug can be identified by several characteristics: It is just over 1/2 inch long. Its body is grayish-brown with brownish-orange stripes on edges and underside. It is winged with a squat, wide body. It is very slow moving. When crushed, it emits an odorous scent.
Look-Alike Bugs Boxelder bugs – The two bugs can be differentiated by the red lines on the boxelder's body and wings. When at rest, the red lines on the folded wings form and upside-down V. It feeds on boxelder trees. Stink bugs – The stink bug is wider and rounder than the squash bug. It also gives off an odor when disturbed as well as when crushed, thus its name. The stink bug feeds on tomatoes and beans rather than squash. Squash bugs are common in vegetable gardens, as they feed on pumpkins, squash (thus their name), and melons. They can lay up to 40 eggs at a time on the undersides of leaves and stems, and develop from egg to adult in 4-6 weeks.
How Squash Bugs Enter the Home Like the boxelder and stink bugs, the squash bug will crawl into cracks and crevices in the structure, then move into the home from its between-wall harborage when the weather gets cold. The bugs can also be brought in on firewood. To prevent this, don't store firewood in the home or near exterior walls. When the wood is brought in, use it as soon as possible so any insects in or on the wood don't end up in your home instead.
Damage and Control The squash bug can cause damage in the garden to plants on which it feeds. The beetles feed on the plants by sucking out the juices, causing the leaves to lose water and nutrients, then they wither and brown. High populations can kill the plants or cause them to lose runners. The bugs may also feed directly on the fruit of the plant, damaging or killing the squash as well.
Control in the Garden Garden control should take place during the spring and summer as the plants grow. Look for the bugs beneath debris and near buildings. Inspect plants each day for bugs, eggs, or signs of wilting. Experts also recommend the placing of boards around the garden, as the bugs will use these for shelter and breeding. Any bugs or eggs found by any of these methods should be removed and destroyed. The plants can also be treated with an approved insecticide, following all label directions. Because squash bugs can fly, they can migrate from other yards or gardens, so inspection and control must control through the summer.
Control in the Home In the home, the bugs are more of an annoyance than a destructive force. They are also more likely to be seen singly rather than congregating in groups, and their slow movement makes them fairly easy control with a vacuum or broom. Avoid smashing or crushing the bugs, however, as they can be quite odorous when crushed and can stain furniture, carpeting, walls, and drapes. To help prevent home invasion: Inspect the home or building exterior to find and seal all cracks and openings to prevent the bugs from entering Caulk around incoming pipes, utility wires, and cables;
Repair window and door screens; ensure door and window seals are intact; In the fall, the exterior of the home on which squash bugs are found can be sprayed with an approved insecticide. Always read and follow label directions when using any pesticide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
A reader recently related a scene on one of her trees that perfectly describes a common insect problem and prompted a response revealing how to control magnolia scale (Neolecanium cornuparvum, Thro). Here is how her email read: "I have a magnolia tree that is looking brown and moldy. Upon closer inspection, I noticed scales on the branches that looked like ladybugs attached to the bark. I removed all the bugs from the branches and pruned off the dead branches. Is there anything I can spray on the magnolia tree to give it a chance to survive?"
How Do You Control Magnolia Scale? Her description was apt. What she had is, indeed, called magnolia "scale." The first thing that homeowners have to realize in learning how to control magnolia scale is that it looks and acts very little like a typical insect. The life cycle of a magnolia scale insect is dominated by a long period during which it just looks like the proverbial "bump on a log." But do not let their innocent appearance fool you, because they are sucking fluids out of your plants. There are two general groups of scale (although there are thousands of different species): the armored-body types and the soft-body types. Magnolia scale belongs to the latter group.
Due to their "inanimate" appearance, however, people are often caught off-guard when they finally witness evidence of an infestation. Worse, they may misdiagnose the situation as a mold problem or even an ant problem (ants are attracted to the honeydew excreted by magnolia scale, as is explained in this article on organic ant control). And yes, there is an insecticidal spray you can apply to fight the problem. But for effective magnolia scale control, it is essential that you understand the scale insect's life cycle, because that cycle is what determines when to spray with insecticide to control magnolia scale.
The Life Cycle of the Magnolia Scale Scale insects pass through stages (phases) in their life cycle called "instars." The Penn State Department of Entomology explains the life cycle of these insects; a summary of their explanation follows: The insect overwinters at the tips of the tree's branches in what is known as the "nymph" instar. These nymphs start feeding in spring and reach maturity in the middle of the summer, at which time mating occurs. "Females later give birth to living young called crawlers in late August or early September." But, soon after, the crawling stops, and they will cling to the very twigs upon which overwintering will take place -- thus bringing us full circle.
When to Spray With Insecticide to Kill Scale Insects To control magnolia scale successfully, you must spray the insecticide (for example, malathion or acephate) at the right time in this insect's life cycle (namely, when it is in the crawler stage). These insects are more vulnerable to sprays at that particular time in their life cycle than at other periods, and that time is generally late summer. The Cornell Entomology Department explains that, once the scale insect progresses past the crawler stage in its life cycle, "the exoskeleton hardens, making it less susceptible to contact insecticides."
Since the insects are at the crawler stage in late summer, then, that is the best time to spray (aim for September). If you wish to try an organic insecticide, try neem oil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Identification The tomato hornworm, Manduca quinquemaculata, is much dreaded by vegetable gardeners, because they can devastate tomatoes and other members of the nightshade ( Solanaceae) family, such as eggplants and peppers. However, the tomato hornworm and tobacco hornworm, Manduca sexta, are often confused with each other. They are very similar in appearance and both attack members of the Solanaceae family.
The tomato hornworm is three to four inches long at full size (likely to be the biggest caterpillar we see in our gardens) and green in color, with white V-shaped marks along its sides. A black "horn" projects from the rear of the caterpillar. Tobacco hornworms, on the other hand, have diagonal white stripes and a red "horn." Both are treated in the same way when they attack your garden.
Life Cycle The tomato hornworm represents the larval stage of the hawk or sphinx moth, also known as hummingbird moths. The moths overwinter in the soil as dark brown pupae, then emerge and mate in late spring. They lay their eggs, which are round and greenish-white, on the undersides of leaves. The eggs hatch in four to five days and the hornworm emerges. It spends the next four weeks growing to full size, after which it will make its way into the soil to pupate.
Signs of Tomato Hornworms Tomato hornworms are voracious pests, munching entire leaves, small stems and even parts of the immature fruit. While they are most commonly associated with tomatoes, hornworms are also common pests of eggplants, peppers, and potatoes. Most likely, you'll notice the damage before you notice the hornworms because their color helps them blend in so well with the plant foliage. You can also look for their black frass (droppings) on the foliage and around the base of the plant.
Effect on Garden Plants Undetected, a tomato hornworm can do a fair amount of damage to its host plant. They have hearty appetites and can defoliate a plant in a matter of days. If they are detected and removed early on, the plant will recover just fine. Organic Control for Tomato Hornworm Because the hornworm is so large, the easiest and most effective way to get rid of it is to pick it off of plants as soon as you detect it, and either crush it or toss it into a bowl of soapy water. A bad infestation can be treated by applying BT (Bacillus thuringiensis). This is most effective when the larvae are small. If worms are a problem year after year, try rototilling the soil either in late fall or in spring before you plant--this will either bury the pupae or destroy them.
However, if you see a hornworm covered with white egg sacs, leave it be. The egg sacs are those of a parasitic wasp called the Braconid wasp. Let the eggs hatch, and you'll have an army of wasps ready to defend your garden against all types of pests. These wasps are not a threat to humans. Another organic method for killing tomato hornworms is mix liquid soap and water together and spray it onto the plant foliage, then sprinkle cayenne pepper over the foliage and fruit. The soap solution will kill the worms, while the Cayenne repels them if the soap washes off. This treatment will need to be repeated after each heavy rain, however.
Chemical Control for Tomato Hornworms The synthetic chemical Carbaryl will kill tomato hornworms along with many other pests. However, it is highly toxic and is discouraged for use on edibles. Wherever possible, rely on organic methods to control tomato hornworms, as well as other garden pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cabbage worms are the larval form of the Cabbage White butterfly (Pieris rapae, or Artogeia rapae). There are several types of worms that are called cabbage worms, but two species are the most common and most damaging to garden vegetables. In addition to cabbage, the worms can feed extensively broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, radishes, turnips, rutabagas, and kohlrabi.
Appearance It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you'll start seeing damage to your brassicas (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.) Butterfly: Off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across. Larva (which is the form that does the actual damage): Velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long. Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.
Life Cycle The larva builds a chrysalis in the fall and hatches as the Cabbage White butterfly in spring. The butterfly feeds on nectar and lays single eggs on the undersides of plants of the brassicas family. The eggs hatch in five to seven days. The larva (cabbage worm) feeds voraciously on brassicas, building up the energy to make its chrysalis and metamorphize over the winter. Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation Because of their voracious appetite, an "infestation" can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out. They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.
Effect on Garden Plants A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat, the more compromised becomes the plant's ability to photosynthesize. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly but won't render them inedible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.
Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms While there are standard full-spectrum chemical pesticides that will control cabbage worms, the better strategy is to employ one of several different organic solutions: Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find. If you have a serious infestation, purchase bacillus thuringiensis (BT) from your garden center and apply it according to the directions. To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.
To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head. To repel the pests, dry a repellant drench made from a puree of spearmint, green onion, garlic, horseradish, hot peppers, peppercorns and water mixed in a blender. Then add one tablespoon of liquid soap per quart of mix and spray it onto the plants. Make a caterpillar deterrent citrus spray by grinding up rinds and seeds of any citrus fruit, and soak it overnight in two cups of water. Strain the pulp and add two teaspoons liquid soap to the mixture and spray onto the plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
On cars and other metal objects, a little rust can turn into a lot quickly when affected spots combine into a bigger problem. Gardeners face a similar issue when rust fungus affects plants, and a few speckles run together to form large masses that distort and deform our flower's foliage. Learn how to identify rust, and beat it with treatments and rust-resistant plants.
Rust Fungus Identification There are many species of the rust fungus disease, affecting host-specific plants and flowers, but gardeners can recognize this problem by observing the speckled masses that form on the surfaces of leaves. Like the namesake, many of these pustules are rust-colored, but gardeners should also suspect rust if they see dry spots that are brown, orange, purple, red, or yellow. Rust spots are usually tiny, scattered across plant leaves like so many freckles. Affected plants can have dozens of rust spots on each leaf, and it’s possible for a single leaf to have more than a hundred rust spots.
Flowers Affected by Rust Fungus Rust disease is legendary in hollyhock flowers, but they aren’t the only potential victims of this fungus. Pay close attention to signs of rust fungus in these flowers during the summer months: Aster Carnation Geranium Iris Lily Pansy Primrose Snapdragon Sunflower Sweet pea Damage Caused by Plant Rust Fungus Flowers with a heavy rust infestation may experience curling or withering of leaves, and the plant can lose its leaves entirely. With this much damage to leaves, gardeners can expect to see stunted growth in their garden plants.
Organic Sprays for Rust Control A weekly dusting of sulfur can prevent and treat garden rust disease. Neem oil, a botanical fungicide and pesticide, also controls rust. Some organic gardeners swear by baking soda for garden fungus control. The efficacy of baking soda spray may be enhanced by mixing it with light horticultural oil. Cultural Control of Rust Fungus Rust fungi, like many plant fungal diseases, flourish in wet conditions. The most important step you can take to reduce rust in your flower garden is to stop overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system to deliver water at ground level. If this isn’t possible, water your flower garden early in the morning, so the sun’s rays will quickly dry your flowers’ foliage. Practicing good garden hygiene can decrease rust attacks. If you see signs of rust, remove and destroy the affected foliage to prevent the spores from spreading. Do not compost diseased foliage.
Conventional Control of Rust Fungus You can choose from several commercial fungicides to control rust fungus. Apply the sprays when you see the first signs of disease, and continue applications according to package directions through July. Look for these fungicides and brand names: Chlorothalonil- Daconil 2787 Mancozeb- Fore, Dithane, or Penncozeb Myclobutanil- Systhane Trifloxystrobin- Compass Rust-Resistant Flowers to Grow
Hybridizers are continuously developing new flower varieties resistant to rust fungus. If you’ve experienced rust for multiple growing seasons, it might be time to remove susceptible plants and replace them with these proven varieties: Aster- ‘Crimson Beauty,’ ‘Honeysong Pink,’ or ‘Purple Dome’ Hollyhock- ‘Happy Lights’ Rugosa rose Snapdragon- ‘White Monarch,’ ‘Orange Glow,’ the Rocket series Even when choosing rust resistant varieties, you’ll get best results by not overcrowding your plants. Proper spacing promotes air circulation, carrying disease spores away from the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Description Garden aphids, also known as plant lice, include many different species in the Aphidoidea insect family. Aphids are very small--roughly 1/10th of an inch long. The most common colors are green and black, though brown, reddish-brown, and gray aphids inhabit some parts of the country. They have two long, tubular appendages on the tail end of their body.
Life Cycle Aphid eggs overwinter attached to plants, then hatch as nymphs in the spring. These nymphs then produce eggs asexually, producing more nymphs that grow to maturity in just one week. Then, in the fall the nymphs will lay eggs that contain some male aphids. These males then mate with the nymphs to produce the eggs that will overwinter and start the next generation of aphids. Mature aphids lay three to six eggs per day. The rapid asexual reproduction cycle during the growing season is what leads to the rapid and widespread infestation so familiar to many gardeners.
Signs of Aphid Infestation Aphids suck the sap out of tender plant shoots and leaves using beak-like mouths, injecting the leaves with their saliva as they do so. The damage to plants is twofold: drinking the sap can weaken the plant, and injecting the saliva can spread diseases from plant to plant. In addition, aphids excrete a sticky, clear substance called "honey dew" which commonly fosters the development sooty mold. Sooty mold is unsightly and interferes with the plant's ability to photosynthesize. Because aphids are so tiny, sometimes the first sign that massive infestation is pending is the sign of many ants on your plants. The honeydew secretion is much prized as a food by ants, so when you see many ants on plants, there is a very good likelihood that aphids are also present.
Effect on Garden Plants Aphids can weaken a plant, stunt its growth, cause leaves to curl or wilt, and delay fruit or flower production. In general, an overall anemic appearance to your plants when there is not water shortage or other obvious reason will strongly hint that aphids are to blame. Organic Controls for Aphids There are a number of non-chemical ways to combat or discourage aphid infestations. Sometimes, a strong blast of water from the hose will knock the aphids off of a plant and solve the problem. If you attract or purchase certain beneficial insects, such as lady bugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps or damsel bugs, they will attack the aphids. For this reason, fewer chemical pesticides used in the garden can paradoxically reduce the severity of aphid infestations. A more diverse insect population generally keeps aphid attacks at bay. Plantings mint, fennel, dill, yarrow and dandelions will attract these predators to your garden. Ants are natural enemies of predatory insects, so you may need to control ants in order to maximize the hunting ability of the beneficials. Plants can also be sprayed with insecticidal soap, or a homemade tomato leaf or garlic spray to kill aphids, but must be reapplied when the infestations reappear.
Some biological insecticides based on fungi are known to work on aphids. If You Use Chemical Solutions Aphids are easily killed by standard chemical pesticides, but because they are so prolific and will reinfest so readily, gardeners who try to rely on chemicals often find that their problems are intensified over the long run, as the chemicals must be reapplied often and will also destroy populations of beneficial insects and discourage other aphid predators, such as insect-eating birds. Many gardeners find that an adapted form of the integrated pest management (IPM) practice used by commercial agriculture is a good approach for home gardening. Under this philosophy, some degree of plant damage is deemed acceptable as the price paid for a diverse gardening culture in which the presence of many insect species tends to prevent any one pest from causing overwhelming damage.
Over the long run, minimal use of chemical pesticides tends to produce an overall healthier garden, albeit one in which small levels of insect damage may be present.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Although horticulturalists don’t categorize ants as a garden pest, most people consider the ant an unwelcome tenant in the flower garden. Ants are aggressive, especially the notorious fire ant of the south, which seems to expand its territory northward year by year. Some ants maintain a mutually beneficial relationship with aphids. Ants can also ruin an otherwise perfect spring bouquet of peonies. It’s unreasonable to try to exterminate ants completely in a flower garden, but you can control them without resorting to harmful chemicals.
Create Homemade Ant Repellent Ants are very sensitive to odors, as any picnicker can tell you. Just as they are attracted to sweets, certain smells repel them. Experiment with cotton balls soaked in ant-repelling essential oils. Ants detest mint, camphor, tansy, and clove oil. You can also grow your own ant repellent in the vegetable garden. Place hot peppers in a blender with a bit of water to create a dense mash, which you can spread in problem areas.
Keep Ants off Flowers Ants are attracted to sweet foods, and this includes many fruits and some nectar-rich flowers. Peonies, in particular, seem to attract ants just as buds turn to blossoms. Although ants rarely inflict damage to flowers or fruits, no gardener wants to mar the joy of harvest with a handful of swarming ants.
You can use sticky traps to prevent ants from ascending the plant of concern. Buy a commercial sticky product, such as Tanglefoot, or make your own sticky traps from adhesive paper strips wrapped around the base of the plants. There are two ways to deal with ants on peonies: Cut the flowers when they have fully opened, as ants are attracted to the sucrose that collects on buds. If you cut the flowers in bud, refrigerate them immediately. Within 24 hours, the ants will become very sluggish, making it easy to wipe them off the buds.
Extinguish Aphids If you notice a congregation of ants gathering on one of your garden specimens, be suspicious. Ants are purposeful creatures, not given to leisurely gatherings. Look closely, and use a magnifying glass if necessary: you will probably discover an infestation of aphids. The ants are enjoying the sweet honeydew excreted by the aphids. In exchange for this nourishment, the ants protect the aphids from their enemies, attacking such beneficial insects as ladybugs. You must treat the plant-damaging aphids first; the ants will seek food elsewhere.
Control Fire Ants Fire ants deserve less of the flower gardener’s tolerance and sympathy. These aggressive invaders can crawl quickly up the gardener’s arm or leg, delivering dozens of painful bites before the victim detects them. They also prey on wildlife like lizards, frogs, spiders, and even birds in the garden. If you have any fire ant mounds on your property, you must destroy them. Cover the mound with a container, and pour boiling water around the container. Wait one minute, then turn over the container with a stick and pour an additional gallon of boiling water into the ants seeking refuge in the container.
Repeat as necessary. The Benefits of Ants Don’t despair if you have more ants in your garden than you’d like. Ants aerate the soil, function as pollinators, and eat the eggs and larvae of fleas and other pests. Consider purchasing an ant farm to amuse the children, and learn more about the ways of this social insect.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
No one likes to find their flower gardening efforts thwarted by hungry insects intent on making a meal of our prize specimens. However, some insect pests do more than just snack on our plants; they can introduce fungi and other diseases than can sound the death knell for our favorite flowers. Aphids Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden in the form of plant viruses and black sooty mold fungus. Start your aphid battle the natural way: Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps, include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs. Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
Borers Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out. The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins. Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs. In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
Leafhoppers Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants, and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus. Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water. Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin. Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
Mealybugs Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 of an inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests. If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly. You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
Plant Bugs Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to ¼ inch long. Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning. Otherwise, spray your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon.
Scale At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very alive indeed, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew. Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.
Whiteflies Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps. Take advantage of the small size and weakness of these insects by using a vacuum to remove them from plants. You can also spray them with insect soap, pythrethrins, and malathion.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Citrus mealybugs, first identified in the U.S. in 1879 can infest and destroy greenhouse and outdoor crops of plant hosts such as Tulips, Cannas, Begonias, Narcissus and Coleus.
Identification Host plants may be dropping leaves, have distorted growth or areas of mold and waxy cottony secretions. Although they are tiny, less than 5 mm long (25.4 mm per inch), wingless female mealybugs with peripheral body filaments or winged males with tail filaments may be lurking and munching in plant crevices, looking as if they had been rolled in flour and ready to be tossed into a micro-sized frying pan.
Damage The mealybugs suck out the host plants sap, injecting toxic saliva and secreting honeydew that grows mold and a cottony wax that can disfigure flowers and make them unsuitable for the market, dining room table or kitchen windowsill. Ants who feast on the tasty honeydew ferry the wingless females to neighboring plants.
Control A first and final defense is to destroy the infested plants as mealybug infestations can be fatal to the host plant if left untreated. A second and less radical approach is to employ beneficial insects, such as Mealybug Destroyer beetles which feed voraciously on the pests and can be purchased from commercial suppliers. Note: Like the pest insect, these beetles do not survive cold weather so they must either be released into greenhouses, outdoors in temperate climates or outdoors during warm seasons in colder climes. In addition, birds will prey on the beetles outdoors. Also, spreading bone meal at the base of any plants or wrapping the trunk in cloth may discourage ants from visiting and spreading the tenacious pests.
Neighborhood Watch Other botanical derivatives such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum have been effective in some applications and controls that work in one location may not work in another, so ask other local organic gardeners or the county extension service for suggestions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
They may look like little fluffy cotton balls with legs, but the damage mealybugs can do in the flower garden is serious. Mealybugs, a cousin to other garden pests like scale and whiteflies, can damage many flowering and ornamental plants by direct feeding and by introducing diseases into the garden. Organic flower gardeners can control this pest in several ways without resorting to toxic pesticides.
Identify Mealybugs and Mealybug Damage Mealybugs are tiny insects, about 1/8 inch in length, but their color and clustering habit make mealybugs easy to find on garden plants. Most common mealybug species are white, and have waxy looking filaments covering their bodies, giving them a fuzzy or hairy appearance. An exception is the hibiscus mealybug, which is pinkish-brown and lacks the fringe. Mealybugs feed on garden plants by inserting their sharp mouthparts into the leaves and stems to suck sap. Damaged leaves look wrinkled or puckered, and the insects can contaminate cut flowers with webby egg sacs and clusters of larvae. The honeydew mealybugs excrete compounds the damage, as it harbors black sooty mold and encourages the growth of plant viruses.
Integrated Pest Management for Mealybugs Several species of parasitic wasps prey on mealybugs, so flower gardeners should attract these predators with nectar rich plantings of yarrow, sweet alyssum, and bee balm. Lacewings and pirate bugs also feed on mealybugs, so gardeners should be aware of the possibility of damaging these pests with insect spray, even if the spray is organic. The honeydew mealybugs exude attracts ants, which aren’t pests themselves, but protect mealybugs from natural predators. Planting common vetch as a cover crop can draw ants away from mealybugs by providing a supplemental nectar source. Gardeners can also discourage ant colonies by tilling the surface of the soil to disrupt nests.
Biological Pest Control for Mealybugs Organic gardeners have at least two commercial options for biological mealybug control. The ladybug species Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, commonly called the mealybug destroyer, feeds voraciously on mealybugs at all stages of development. In fact, gardeners must take care not to mistake this beneficial insect for a pest, as the larvae of this ladybug resemble mealybugs. Gardeners can order adult mealybug destroyers to release during periods of high infestation, and this ladybug will feed on other garden pests like aphids or thrips when the mealybugs are gone. Gardeners can use the OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) approved insect-killing fungus marketed under the trade name Mycotrol, which contains spores of Beauveria bassiana. Gardeners can use this product until the day of harvest for cut flowers, as it’s safe for people, animals, and the environment.
Organic Sprays for Mealybugs As soft bodied insect pests, mealybugs are susceptible to insect soap sprays. Gardeners must spray mealybugs directly with the insect soap to disrupt the cell membrane and kill the insects, so this spray doesn’t work as a preventative agent. The biggest drawback of insect soaps is their potential to damage or burn plants. To reduce plant toxicity, spray plants in the evening and spray them with water in the morning, as high temperatures and sunlight increase plant damage from insect soap.
Mealybugs on Houseplants Mealybugs and their nymphs thrive in greenhouses, making this insect pest common on houseplants. Orchids are particularly susceptible to damage and death from mealybug infestations. Isolate new houseplants for one week before placing them around other houseplants. Inspect the plants each day for signs of white mealybugs or their webbing, and kill any insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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