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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common in home gardens across North America, wireworms (up to 1-1/2 inch long) are tough slender worms with shiny skin and three pairs of legs just behind their head. They are yellow to brownish-red in color and feed entirely underground, attacking germinating seeds, roots, bulbs and tubers. Damaged plants soon wilt and die. If infestations are heavy, thin and patchy crops may appear in the garden and reseeding will most likely be necessary.
Note: Wireworms are the larval stage of click beetles. Approximately 1/2 inch long, these brown to black colored, bullet-shaped beetles are notable for their ability to click and right themselves when placed on their backs. Life Cycle Wireworm larvae and adults overwinter in the soil. In early spring female beetles emerge from the soil, mate and lay eggs underground. Hatching takes place in 2-4 weeks, and the young larvae begin working their way through the soil in search of food. Larvae feed underground for 2-6 years with most of their damage occurring in early spring when soil temperatures are cool. Pupation occurs in late summer and adult beetles emerge in the spring. One generation per year, the life-cycle requiring 1-6 years to complete.
Wireworm Control Thorough cultivation of the top 6- to 8-inches of soil makes conditions unfavorable to the egg laying adults and exposes all stages of the pest to weather and natural enemies. Potatoes make great wireworm traps. Cut a potato in half and run a stick through the middle. Bury the spud about one inch deep so that the stick stands vertically as a handle. Pull the traps out after a day or two and discard wireworms. Crop rotation is especially important to the organic vegetable grower because it can help reduce many pest problems that lead to the use of pesticides. Apply beneficial nematodes when planting to attack and destroy developing pests in the soil.
EcoSMART Organic Insect Killer can be used around home foundations, lawns and landscapes (ornamental and flower gardens). Apply 2-5 lbs over 1000 sq ft every 2-4 weeks or as needed. Birds can consume large amounts of larvae. Encourage them by hanging houses and feeders near your garden. Soil drenches containing the botanical insecticide pyrethrin are somewhat effective, but should only be used as a last resort.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common on houseplants and in greenhouses, the whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is a sap-sucking insect that is often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. Both nymphs and adults damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Plants become weak and susceptible to disease. Like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, so leaves maybe sticky or covered with a black sooty mold. They are also responsible for transmitting several plant viruses.
In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested. Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.
Life Cycle Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months. Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.
Whitefly Control Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations. If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers. Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed. Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird. Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year. Tomato Hornworm Control Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide. Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A common pest found in greenhouses and indoor/ outdoor gardens, thrips damage plants by sucking their juices and scraping at fruits, flowers and leaves. Plant leaves may turn pale, splotchy, and silvery, then die. Injured plants are twisted, discolored and scarred. Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Life Cycle Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products. To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.) Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations. If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers. Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method. Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are hundreds (and hundreds) of different types of stink bugs. But it’s the Asian newcomers, first found in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 1998, that get all the attention. That’s because they’ve quickly spread across the country. And they’re infamous for swarming inside the walls and other places in one’s house.
But they’re not alone. Stink bugs native to North America were causing problems for growers and releasing strange odors long before the non-native types invaded. Most are sap suckers that damage and weaken plants. Not picky, the pests feed on fruits, vegetables and vegetation. They’re present, in greater or lesser numbers, all through the growing season. The family Pentatomidae to which these garden pests belong, contains some 900 genera and over 4700 species. More common types include brown, green, rice, Southern and dusky stink bugs. Other family types include shield bugs and chust bugs. Most are identified by their shield, the hardened part of their thorax that gives them the appearance of being armored.
Coloring can be solid or mottled and can range from brown and black to bright green with red or orange trim. The widely distributed Conchuela stink bug can be black in southern states, green in northern states, and a strange combination of the two in the area between. Conchuela feeds on fruits and crops including grapes, peas and tomatoes. In dry regions it feeds on sage, yucca and prickly pear. The characteristic stink — some describe it as the smell of rotted cilantro — comes from glands located on the thorax. It’s released as a defensive mechanism and can be a nuisance for those working in their gardens or, especially, if found in clusters, on the ground or on sides of trees. Not all stink bugs are harmful. Predators, including the Florida predatory stink bug, feed voraciously on sap-sucking insects. Predators aren’t easily distinguished from harmful types unless you’re familiar with the various coloring of different species. Harmful, vegetative feeders have long, needle-like proboscis. Predators have shorter, bulkier proboscis, and feed on a variety of insect pests. Again, like their sap sucking cousins, they’re not picky.
New varieties of pests commonly known as stink bugs continue to come to our shores. The painted bug or Bagrada bug of Southern Europe and Africa, a major pest of brassica crops, was first collected in California in 2008 and has since spread to Arizona and Texas. Euschistus quadrator, a pest that thrives on genetically engineered corn has spread across the south since moving up from Mexico in the 1970s. The sheer variety in stink bugs is on beautiful display at naturalist-photographer Bev Wigney’s gallery. Life Cycle Adults overwinter beneath brush, under tree bark, in woodpiles and against the corners of buildings. Some, like the brown-marmorated types, will gather inside walls and window sills if they can find a way in. From wherever they hide, they emerge early in spring and begin to feed. When conditions are right they mate. Like crickets, the stink bugs “chirp” by rubbing their legs together in an attempt to attract mates. They also release a bug-arousing pheromone scent, different than the offensive scent that gives them their name.
The female lays distinctive clusters of eggs — as many as 150 in a cluster — on plant leaves, tree branches or on houses, frequently on the bottom of clapboard siding. The clusters can be yellow, brown, white or pink, usually deepening in color as the nymph develops. Breeding can continue through the season, allowing for various generations to be at different stages of development through the summer. Populations increase as they overlap, resulting in higher and higher numbers just as many crops move towards maturity as the season progresses. Nymph stages resemble adults stages but with significant size and color differences. Adult colors appear as the nymph passes through various (often five) instars. Nymphs are usually flightless.
In fall, as food sources dry up and disappear, the adults begin to gather in place to overwinter and repeat the cycle. They sometimes will emerge during spells of warm autumn or winter weather but often aren’t seen again until spring. Virginia Cooperative Extension’s Integrated Pest Management program has an excellent field guide (PDF) with photos that identify eggs, nymph and adult stages of various stink bug types. Damage Stink bugs are all appetite and will feed from whatever plants are convenient. They prefer the fleshy part of fruits but can adapt to conditions as plants in late season begin to loose moisture. Some types are known to exist in arid climates on woody plants and even cacti, yet prefer commercially raised, irrigated crops that are grown in such regions.
Damage to crops caused by stink bugs is often cosmetic but also leads to early decay and spoilage. In addition to the pin-prick piercing which result in blemishes, the insects also inject a digestive enzyme that causes discoloration as it spreads through the plant’s vascular system. Given the choice, the pests will always choose fruit over foliage, they are opportunist and will feed on what’s available, including seeds and stems. Damage on cabbage and other leafy crops can be seen in gray and beige blotches. Corn attacked by the pests will have dark spots on stalks and, more likely, deformed ears with missing kernels. Fruit skins will show browning where the bugs have fed and tomatoes show a darkened bruise around the spot where the pest has inserted its proboscis.
Stink Bug Control Keep areas around gardens clear of tall grass, brambles, downed limbs and other natural litter to deny a place to over winter. Using good organic practice — soil building, encouraging beneficial microbes and other soil life, maintaining habitat for beneficial organisms including birds; balanced nutrient and moisture management, applications of compost — helps plants resist damage caused by stink bugs. Use sticky traps and tape to detect the presence of stink bugs.
When stink bugs are expected, especially as crops approach harvest, use row covers to prevent them from gaining access. Collect any bugs that land on the covers and drown them in a can with water and some soap. A number of naturally occurring predatory insects will destroy Pentatomidae in stages from egg and larvae to adult. Keep areas surrounding the garden free of pesticides to assure these beneficial insects can play a role in your Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. The parasitic wasp Trissolcus basalis, which inserts its eggs into the pest’s eggs, has been shown to be effective against the Southern green stink bug. California has released the wasps in some tomato growing areas in an effort to reduce pest damage. Studies after the release found that 80% of all target egg masses had been visited by the wasp and that 87% of the eggs in each mass had been impregnated.
Other beneficial insects known to predate on Pentatomidae during various stages of the pest’s development include ladybugs, lacewing and the minute pirate bug. Kaolin clay, a harmless mineral, has been shown to suppress stink bug activity. Sold in a modified form as Surround WP Crop Protectant, it repels the bugs by attaching itself to their bodies, agitating them and causing them to flee. The non-toxic kaolin clay also coats leaves and fruit with a fine film that keeps the pests from feeding. (The film has been shown to actually increase photosynthesis and encourage healthy growth (PDF) in trees and other plants.) Spray kaolin clay periodically throughout the season in places where stink bugs do heavy damage.
Insecticidal soaps and neem oil are also effective against stink bugs, especially early in the season. Finding stink bugs in your home? Fill an aluminum turkey pan, preferably recycled, with an inch or so of water and stir in a little dish detergent. Shine a lamp (like a desklamp) on the surface and leave it on overnight. The light attracts the bugs who land in the water and are held by the detergent. From there, you know what to do.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Springtails are tiny, wingless, moisture-loving creatures that seek dampness outdoors and in. They are frequently found clustered together in dense swarms. When disturbed, they spring into the air, as high as several inches, creating easily visible clouds.
Outside, they’re found in wet soil, decaying straw, rotting leaves and other damp organic material. They feed on molds, fungi and algae. As soils dry, the insects search out more moist conditions, a move that often brings them inside homes where they gather in garages, basements and greenhouses as well in damp floorboards, carpets, under kitchen sinks and in the soil of potted houseplants. No longer considered true insects because of their internal chewing mechanism — insects have external chewing parts — springtails make up the order Collembola. They can be as much as 1/16 inch long but before reaching maturity are just a fraction this size. They come in all shades of brown and gray as well as black and white.
Springtails become conspicuous as they gather in large clusters that resemble balls or swatches of fabric. Springing into the air, seemingly all at once, when exposed or disturbed, makes them even more conspicuous. This leaping is done by means of an external body part known as a furcula which is folded under its abdomen. When released, the furcula pops the tiny bug a few inches into the air. Life Cycle Springtails reproduce quickly, going from egg to adult stage in as little as four to six weeks. Mature males leave packets of sperm cells in the soil where they live. These are picked up by females as they lay their eggs, either in packets or singly. Depending on temperature conditions, the eggs hatch within five to ten days.
Nymphs resemble the adults. During the five or six weeks they spend as nymphs, they go through several stages before becoming adults, molting and becoming larger in each. Outdoors, springtails can survive through an entire season, reproducing a number of times. Indoors, they can live as long as a year. Damage Springtails are mostly a nuisance pest, doing little damage to plants. They will chew roots in the soil where they’re located, and can inhibit plant hardiness. But they seldom do major damage.
These nearly invisible bugs do not bite or sting and are generally harmless to humans. But they are an unpleasant house guest and finding a swarm of them under a carpet or around a basement drain requires cleanup to prevent ongoing populations or masses of dead insects that are less than sanitary. The presence of springtails in your bathroom or carpets is an indication of dampness that provides clues to possible larger problems such as leaky pipes or roofs, poorly sealed tubs and sinks and porous basement walls. Treating pest infestations often requires house repairs and other fixes. Springtails will cluster inside the walls of newly built homes that were exposed to rain or high humidity during framing and not allowed to completely dry. The pests presence inside walls can be an indication that mold and fungus might be present. Springtails can be a major nuisance around outdoor swimming pools where they will often cover the water’s surface as they die off. Though they hold no danger to humans, this bug scum makes for a poor pool experiences. The creature’s tiny size and great numbers can make them difficult to skim.
Hydroponics and Indoor Garden Control Because of their moisture levels, indoor growing spaces are particularly susceptible to springtail infestations. In hydroponic growing systems, the pests will cluster at the edge of grow-tank and in exposed root crowns of plants. Careful periodic inspections and removal can help keep populations down. While it’s often claimed that springtails do little noticeable damage, they will feed on roots and moist plant matter, causing “leaf stipling” (yellowing) and cause other harm to growth and vigor. Still, many growers choose to tolerate them rather than treat them. If you choose to co-exist with them, make sure you’ve positively identified them and aren’t mistaking them for some pest like spider mites that can cause extensive damage. Wipe up pest colonies around the rims of trays, near drains and other damp places in your grow space. Large colonies on floors or on stands can be vacuumed with a shop-vac. If springtails have become such a nuisance they must be sprayed, use an OMRI listed for organic production compound such as azadirachtin, an anti-feedant and insect growth regulator (IGR) that controls pests through starvation and growth disruption.
Potted Plants Springtails enter homes through window screens, open doors and windows, vent pipes or in potted plants. They are attracted to indoor moisture, especially as the outdoors dries. They may be attracted to light, entering through windows, under doors or through cracks in the foundation. Keep springtails away from your home by keeping leaves, grass and other organic matter away from the foundation. Fill every crack the foundation may have, even beneath the soil line as possible. Make sure seals around windows and doors are tight. Use crawling insect killers with diatomaceous earth to repel the pests around places where they might enter. Springtails frequently occur in the soil of potted plants. Inspect the potting mixture of every plant you intend to bring home by testing it with your thumbs and watching for springing. Lichen or other soil covers that are organic food sources for the pests should be examined carefully. Be especially cautious if plants show signs of excess moisture. If you suspect insect activity, quarantine house plants, preferably outside, to allow the soil to completely dry before bringing them in.
Letting soil dry completely as possible is the best way to deal with infested pots already in the home. Sprinkle Safer Brand diatomaceous earth on potted soils to help them dry and to repel springtails. If infestations in potted plants persist, use a non-toxic, biodegradable soil drench to kill and repel the bugs. (More than one application may be required.) After a hot day, they may congregate on the side of a building in tremendous numbers, increasing the chance of indoor infestation. If you spot an infestation inside or out, use a wet -dry shop-vac with a small amount of soapy water in its collection tank to vacuum them up. Use fans to thoroughly dry any area of the house, including inside walls (as possible) where springtails have been found. Repair roof leaks, cracks in siding and any other places where moisture might enter the house. Keep areas around sink faucets and drains clear and clean of molds and other growth that might used as a food source. Remove scum and hair from beneath sink drains. If you suspect springtails in your drain pipes, clean as thoroughly as possible and rinse them with vinegar. (Never pour any type of pesticide down a drain.) House plant soil, especially those with lichen or moss, can be a hotbed of springtail reproduction. Inspect any potted houseplants you buy for signs of infestation before bringing them inside. Once inside the house, don’t over water. Allowing soil to dry completely between watering discourages them from staying around.
Outdoor Control Because they only infrequently damage plants, there’s little reason to control springtails outdoors unless their numbers become a nuisance. The comprehensive Integrated Pest Management website at the University of California says outdoor use of pesticides aren’t effective against this pest and won’t provide long-term control by themselves. To discourage the bugs in gardens and landscapes, remove their favored habitat, namely damp, organic matter. Compacted mulch protects colonies that thrive beneath it. Refrain from adding compost and other organic material to the soil until the pests have disappeared.
Allowing soils to dry completely before watering prevents them from getting established, sending them away in search of wetter territory. Reduce watering in vegetable or ornamental gardens that host springtails and allow soils to dry completely before watering. Don’t expect to eliminate them entirely where moist conditions naturally persist. Frequent turning of straw mulches and compost heaps, disturbs eggs and exposes nymphs to drier surface conditions helping to keep their numbers down. But because of their size, many will escape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses. Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.
Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off. Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage. Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.
Life Cycle Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults. After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.
Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial. Damage Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems. The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause: On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning. On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage. On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
Control Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods. Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors. Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
Insecticidal soap, neem oil or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas. On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs. Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative. Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Often found in home gardens and landscaped areas across the country, sowbugs (Porcellio scaber) and pillbugs (Armadillidium vulgare), also known as rolly pollies, feed primarily on decaying matter and are important in the decomposition process. However, if present in large numbers they have been known to feed on seedlings, new roots, lower leaves and fruits or vegetables laying directly on the soil. These small scavengers scurry when disturbed and are often found outside hiding under leaves, rocks, garden debris, mulch and other dark, damp areas. Occasionally they will enter homes as accidental invaders. Indoors they are simply a nuisance and cannot survive for more than a day or two without water. These insects do not bite or sting and cannot damage household structures.
Similar in appearance, sowbugs and pillbugs (3/4 inch long) are slow-moving oval-shaped crustaceans that more closely resemble crayfish, shrimp and lobster than insects. They vary from gray to brown to almost purple in color and have seven pairs of legs, elbowed antennae, and a segmented hard shell-like covering, similar to that of an armadillos. Sowbugs also have two tail-like structures on the rear end that pillbugs lack. Note: Pillbugs are sometimes called “roly-polies” because they often roll up into a tight ball when disturbed.
Life Cycle Both sowbugs and pillbugs mate throughout the year with most of the activity occurring in March and April. The female incubates her eggs in a fluid-filled pouch (marsupium) located on the underside of her body for 3-7 weeks. After hatching, the young nymphs (similar in appearance to adults, only smaller) remain in the pouch for up to two months until they can care for themselves. Nymphs molt, or shed their exoskeleton, at regular intervals and reach sexual maturity, usually within a year. As adults, they continue to molt about once every month. Females can produce broods of approximately 30-40 young that may live up to 3 years. There are one to two generations per year, depending on weather conditions.
Sowbug/ Pillbug Control To get rid of rolly polly bugs reduce the habitat favored by these pests by eliminating garden debris, leaf piles, fallen fruit and weeds from all growing areas. Use mulches that are coarse enough to let water pass through easily so the surface next to plants will not remain damp for long. Improve air circulation around plants by providing trellises for vines and raising fruits, such as strawberries and melons, up off the ground. Diatomaceous earth, made from the finely ground fossils of prehistoric fresh water diatoms (one-celled shells), is abrasive to crawling insects and can be used as a barrier to protect plants.
Apply Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscaped areas to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests. Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near problem areas. Apply fast-acting botanical insecticides as a soil drench if pest levels become intolerable.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sod webworms live in the thatch, just above the soil, where they spin a light webbing and feed on the undersides of leaves. Damage first appears as small, ragged brown spots in the turf. As feeding continues these areas become larger and may join other large dead patches of grass. Damage occurs on most turfgrasses including bluegrass, bentgrass, tall and fine-leafed fescues and buffalo grass and is most prevalent in areas that receive plenty of direct sunlight or south-facing slopes. Heavily shaded areas are seldom attacked.
The sod webworm (1 inch long) is the larval or caterpillar stage of a small white-brown moth (1/2 to 3/4 inches long) with pale yellow or brown markings on their wings. The adult moths have a habit of folding their wings up closely to their bodies when at rest, earning the group the name “close-winged moths.” If disturbed, the moths fly in a zig zag pattern for short distances before settling again. Adults do not feed on lawns. Life Cycle Sod webworms overwinter as young larvae in silk-lined tunnels near the soil surface or in the thatch. They resume feeding as temperatures warm in April or early May and pass through several instars until their development is complete. In early June, webworms pupate in loosely woven cocoons made of silk and bits of dirt. Approximately 10-14 days later adult moths emerge and begin mating. Mated females fly just above the lawn surface and randomly scatter their eggs into the grass. Each female may lay several hundred eggs which hatch into a new generation of larvae within a week. Young larvae spin webs and feed until mid-summer. There are two to three generations per year in most areas.
Sod Webworm Control Water regularly and reduce thatch and other horticultural stresses on lawns. For light to moderate infestations use a soap drench (2 Tbsp. liquid soap per gallon of water) to draw caterpillars up to the lawn surface, then rake and destroy. Beneficial nematodes are a very effective biological control for use against this pest. For best results, water the lawn a day or two prior to applying the nematodes and water the lawn again, immediately after application. The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on webworms. Use the easy-to-apply liquid spray (1 Tbsp/ gallon) to hit pests and protect your turf at the first signs of damage. Repeat at 5-7 day intervals, if needed. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey® Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the USDA’s National Organic Program and listed for organic use by OMRI. Mix 2 oz/ gallon (3 gallons of spray treats 1,000 sq ft). Delay watering and mowing after application for 12-24 hours.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed. Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Slugs and snails are some of the most troublesome pests found in home gardens, orchards and landscaped areas across North America. They thrive in damp, shady spots and can often be found along foundations, under rocks or in well mulched garden areas.
Most active at night, they feed on a variety of living plants as well as on decaying plant material. Pests chew large holes in foliage and may cause extensive damage to seedlings, tender, low-growing, leafy vegetables and ripening fruit such as strawberries, artichokes and tomatoes. Almost all garden vegetables, ornamental flowers, and some fruit trees, especially citrus are subject to attack. Snails/Slugs are not true insects, but rather members of the mollusk phylum. As a result, they are closely related to snails in structure and biology except the snail has a shell and the slug does not. Both garden pests rely on their muscular foot to move and the secretion of mucous or slime on which they glide. This shiny slime trail often gives them away as it marks their travel.
Life Cycle Several slug species overwinter in the soil as adults or nearly mature young. In spring and early summer large numbers of eggs are deposited (as many as 100 at a time) in soil cracks, underneath mulch or dead leaves and in other cool, moist protected areas. Eggs develop and hatch in 1-3 weeks, but may require as long as 12 weeks if conditions are less than perfect. Once hatched, the young mollusks remain close to the nest for several days until branching out in search of food. Development to maturity may take as little as 3 to 6 months or as long as a year or more depending on species.
Note: Slugs are hermaphrodites, which means that they each possess both male and female sexual organs and have the potential to lay eggs. Snail and Slug Control To get rid of snails and slugs remove garden debris, bricks, lumber piles and weeds from all growing areas and do not apply heavy layers of mulch around plants (1-3 inches is plenty). Handpicking pests can make a sizable dent in the population and is most productive in the evening, two hours after sunset. If handpicking is inconvenient, try trapping. Strips of cardboard, cabbage leaves, rocks or plywood all make excellent traps for daytime collecting. Shallow pans of stale beer sunk into the soil can also be used. The yeast in the beer attracts these pests, which fall in and drown. For best results, replace beer every few days or after a rain.
Copper Tape and diatomaceous earth are popular barriers that prevent pests from reaching the leaves, fruits and flowers on which they feed. Broadcast weather-resistant boric acid granules around flower gardens, ground covers and ornamentals to eliminate slugs and snails. Reapply every four weeks, as needed. Sluggo is an organic bait, containing iron phosphate, that can be scattered on the lawn or on the soil around any vegetables, flowers, fruit trees or bushes to reduce pest numbers.
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