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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) are lovely in the wild, and enjoy the most extensive native range of any tree on the continent. Their leaves have flattened petioles, so they tremble in every light breeze. You may have admired aspens lighting up park slopes with brilliant yellow fall color. But be sure to read up on quaking aspen tree facts before you plant them in your backyard. Cultivated aspens can be a problem to a homeowner. Read on for information about the pros and cons of planting a quaking aspen tree, and how to grow quaking aspen trees.
Quaking Aspen Tree Facts Before planting a quaking aspen tree in your garden, you’ll need to understand the pros and cons of cultivated aspen trees. Some gardeners love them, some do not. Aspen trees grow very quickly and are very hardy. That means that you can “furnish” a new backyard in just a few seasons if you plant aspens. Aspens are small and won’t overwhelm your yard, and sometimes they provide nice autumn color.
On the other hand, consider that the role of aspens in nature is as a “succession” tree. Its job in the wild is to spread quickly in eroded or burned out areas, providing cover for seedlings of forest trees like pine, fir and spruce. As the forest trees get bigger, the aspen die out. Quaking aspen tree facts establish that this succession tree spreads very fast in proper terrain. It grows fast from seeds, but also grows from suckers. Planting a quaking aspen tree can lead quickly to many quaking aspen weed trees invading your yard.
How Big Do Quaking Aspens Get? If you are planting a quaking aspen tree, you may ask “how big do quaking aspens get?” They are generally small or medium trees, but can grow to 70 feet tall in the wild. Note that cultivated trees grown in soil unlike that in which the tree experiences in the wild may stay smaller than trees in nature. They also may drop their leaves in the fall without that brilliant yellow display you see in the parks.
How to Grow Quaking Aspen Trees If you decide to go ahead with planting a quaking aspen tree, try to pick nursery-grown specimens rather than those taken from the wild. Nursery grown trees require less quaking aspen tree care and may avoid some of the disease issues the tree experiences in cultivation. A large part of quaking aspen tree care involves selecting an appropriate planting location. Plant the trees in moist, well-drained soil. The soil should be slightly acidic for the tree to thrive.
Plant aspens on northern or eastern slopes, or northern or eastern sides of your house, rather than sunnier areas. They cannot tolerate drought or hot, dry soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aspen trees are a popular addition to landscapes in Canada and the northern parts of the United States. The trees are beautiful with white bark and leaves that turn a striking shade of yellow in the autumn, but they can be finicky in a few different ways. Keep reading to learn more aspen tree information, including how to care for aspen trees in landscapes.
Aspen Tree Information One problem that many people come up against when growing aspen trees is their short lifespan. And it’s true – aspen trees in landscapes usually only live between 5 and 15 years. This is usually due to pests and diseases, which can be a real problem and sometimes have no treatment. If you notice your aspen becoming sick or infested, the best thing to do is often to cut the offending tree down. Don’t worry, you won’t be killing the tree. Aspens have large underground root systems that continually put up new suckers that will grow into large trunks if they have the space and the sunlight.
In fact, if you see several aspens growing near each other, odds are good that they’re actually all parts of the same organism. These root systems are a fascinating element of the aspen tree. They allow the trees to survive forest fires and other aboveground problems. One aspen tree colony in Utah is thought to be over 80,000 years old. When you’re growing aspen trees in landscapes, however, you probably don’t want a colony that puts up new suckers all the time. The best way to prevent this spread is to surround your tree with a round metal sheet sunk 2 feet into the ground a few feet from the trunk. If your tree does fall to disease or pests, try cutting it down – you should see new suckers very soon.
Common Aspen Tree Varieties Some of the more common aspen trees in landscapes include the following: Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) Korean aspen (Populus davidiana) Common/European aspen (Populus tremula) Japanese aspen (Populus sieboldii)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Arborvitae (Thuja) are one of the most versatile and attractive trees or shrubs found in the landscape. They are useful as hedge material, in pots or as interesting focal points for the garden. Planting an arborvitae hedge provides security and a beautiful screen. This easy to grow evergreen comes in a wide variety of sizes and colors, providing a solution for almost any landscape situation. Follow a few tips on how to grow an arborvitae and you will have a plant with superior growth habit and ease of care.
Arborvitae Growing Conditions Arborvitae prefer moist, well-drained soil in full sun or even partial shade. Most zones of the United States provide ideal arborvitae growing conditions and they are hardy to USDA Zone 3. Check drainage before planting an arborvitae and add grit to a depth of 8 inches if your soil retains too much moisture. Arborvitae need soil ph levels of 6.0 to 8.0, which should have a good amount of organic material worked in to increase its structure and nutrient levels.
When to Plant Arborvitae Most evergreen plants, such as arborvitae, are planted when they are not actively growing for best results. Depending where you live, they may be planted in late winter if soils are workable, or you may have to wait until early spring when the earth has thawed. Arborvitae are usually sold balled and burlapped, which means the root system is protected from harsh conditions and allows you to be more lenient on when to plant arborvitae than with bare-root trees. They can also be established in the ground in late fall if the base is covered with a thick layer of bark or organic mulch.
How to Plant Arborvitae Trees Location and soil condition are the primary concerns regarding how to plant arborvitae trees. These scale-leaved evergreens have a broad, spreading root system, which tends to be near the surface. Dig the hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball to allow roots to spread as the tree becomes established. Water frequently for the first few months and then begin to taper off. Irrigate deeply when you do water and ensure that the plant doesn’t dry out in hot punishing summer weather.
How to Grow Arborvitae Arborvitate are very tolerant plants that require no pruning and have naturally graceful pyramid shapes. While the plants are prey to few insects, they are prone to spider mite infestations during hot, dry weather. Deep watering and spraying off the foliage can minimize these pests’ presence. Apply a three inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree and fertilize in spring with a good all purpose landscape fertilizer.
Novice gardeners will be particularly rewarded when planting an arborvitae, due to their low maintenance and uncomplaining growth patterns.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Trees growing in the wild rely on the soil to provide the nutrients they need to grow. In a backyard environment, trees and shrubs compete for available nutrients and may require fertilizer to keep them healthy. Arborvitae are narrow-leaf evergreen trees with leaves that look like scales. Different arborvitae species grow into different shapes and sizes, making the tree an excellent choice for hedges of any height or specimen plants. Beloved for their fast growth, arborvitae – especially those planted near other trees or in hedges – often require fertilizer to thrive. It isn’t difficult to begin fertilizing arborvitae. Read on to learn how to fertilize an arborvitae and the type of fertilizer for arborvitae.
Fertilizing Arborvitae Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae? If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae? Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae? It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Trees can be injured by winter weather. This is especially true for needled trees since the needles stay on the trees all winter. If you have arborvitae in your yard and you live in a cold climate, you have probably seen that they occasionally suffer winter damage. Read on for information about winter injury on arborvitae bushes.
Winter Damage to Arborvitae Winter injury on arborvitae bushes is not uncommon. Desiccation, or drying out, is one important cause of winter damage to arborvitae. The arborvitae dry out when the needles lose water faster than they can take it up. Arborvitae needles transpire moisture even in winter, and uptake water from the ground to replace the lost moisture. When the ground freezes below the root system, it cuts off the water supply.
Why are My Arborvitae Turning Brown? Desiccation can lead to arborvitae winter burn. If the foliage is buried under snow, it is protected. But unprotected needles will suffer from winter burn, which turns them brown, gold or even white, particularly on the south, southwest, and windward sides of plants. The actual discoloration, however, can be caused by a number of factors in addition to desiccation and can be fairly dramatic. These include: strong wind bright sun deep, hard frost biting cold salt used on sidewalks and roadways If the winter burn is severe, the entire arborvitae may brown and die. You may notice symptoms as the damage is occurring, but often the burn damage looks even worse later, as temperatures rise in early spring. It’s best not to make any rapid decisions about whether or not you can save the tree. Simply wait for spring and you can easily tell whether the arborvitae is alive.
Arborvitae Winter Care You can prevent desiccation by watering the ground thoroughly all through the growing season, right up through autumn. Give the shrubs more water on warm days during the winter. Arborvitae winter care also includes a thick layer of mulch to protect roots. Use up to 4 inches. In addition to mulch, you may need to wrap evergreens in burlap or other material for winter protection if your winters are particularly severe. If you do, don’t wrap too tight or cover the plants too completely. Be sure to give the trees room to breathe and exposure to natural light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Alder trees (Alnus spp.) are often used in reforestation projects and to stabilize soil in wet areas, but you seldom see them in residential landscapes. Nurseries that cater to home gardeners rarely offer them for sale, but when you can find them, these handsome plants make excellent shade trees and screening shrubs. Alders have several distinctive features that keep them interesting throughout the year.
Alder Tree Identification The easiest way of recognizing an alder tree is by its distinctive little fruiting body, called a strobile. They appear in fall and look like 1-inch long cones. Strobiles remain on the tree until the following spring, and the small, nutlike seeds they contain supply winter food for birds and small mammals. The female flowers on an alder tree stand upright at the ends of the twigs, while the male catkins are longer and hang down. The catkins persist into winter. Once the leaves are gone, they add subtle grace and beauty to the tree, softening the appearance of the bare branches. Leaves provide another method of alder tree identification. The egg-shaped leaves have serrated edges and distinct veins. A central vein runs down the center of the leaf and a series of side veins run from the central vein to the outer edge, angled toward the leaf tip. The foliage remains green until it drops from the tree in fall.
Additional Information About Alder Trees The different types of alder trees include tall trees with single trunks and much shorter, multi-stemmed specimens that can be grown as shrubs. Tree types grow 40 to 80 feet tall and include the red and white alders. You can distinguish these two trees by their leaves. The leaves on a red alder are tightly rolled under along the edges, while those on a white alder are more flat. Sitka and thinleaf alders reach heights of no more than 25 feet. They can be grown as large shrubs or small trees. Both have multiple stems arising from the roots and you can tell them apart by their leaves. Sitkas have very fine serations along the edges of the leaves, while thinleaf alders have coarse teeth.
Alder trees can extract and use nitrogen from the air in the same way that legumes, such as beans and peas, do. Since they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer, they are ideal for areas that aren’t regularly maintained. Alders are well-suited to wet sites, but abundant moisture isn’t necessary for their survival, and they can also thrive in areas that experience occasional mild to moderate drought.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
What is annatto? If you haven’t read up on annatto achiote information, you may not know about the small ornamental called annatto or lipstick plant. It’s a tropical plant with very unusual fruit that is used for food dye. Read on for tips on how to grow an achiote tree and more.
What is Annatto? Before you start growing achiote trees, you’ll want to learn a little bit about the fascinating annatto plant. So exactly what is annatto? The tree is native to South America. The scientific name of this small tree is Bixa orellana, while the common name is lipstick plant. Both annatto and achiote are terms used in the Caribbean to refer to the tree’s unusual seeds or the plant itself.
Annatto Achiote Information The lipstick tree grows to 12 feet (3.6 m.) tall. It is an evergreen with a rounded canopy of green leaves. It graces your garden with its vivid pink flowers. Each of the ornamental flowers has five sepals and five petals. Over time, the flowers wilt and seeds develop. They grow in scarlet heart-shaped capsules or pods that look a little like chestnut burs, with many spikey bristles. These capsules split open when they are ripe. The seeds are inside in a layer of orange pulp. The seeds contain bixin, a bright red carotenoid pigment. The lipstick-red color is what gives the tree its common name. The seeds were once used to dye clothing, but these days serve mostly as a coloring for foods.
How to Grow an Anchiote Tree If you are interested in learning how to grow an anchiote tree, first check your hardiness zone. These trees can only be grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 through 12. Site is also very important. To have the best chance growing achiote trees, plant seeds or seedlings in a spot with full sun. Care of achiote trees is minimized if you select a site with organically rich, well-drained soil. Provide the trees regular irrigation to keep the soil moist.
Other than irrigation and appropriate siting, care of achiote trees doesn’t require great effort. The lipstick plant does not have any insect or disease problems. These plants grow well as specimens. But you can also plant them in groupings or hedges.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Salicaceae family is a large group containing many different types of willow, from the large weeping willow to smaller varieties like the flamingo Japanese willow tree, also known as the dappled willow tree. So what is a flamingo willow and how do you take care of dappled Japanese willow tree? Read on to learn more.
What is a Flamingo Willow? The flamingo willow tree or shrub is a popular Salicaceae varietal grown for its stunning variegated foliage. Growing dappled willow trees have leaves that are light green mottled with white in the spring and summer and the “flamingo” inspired new growth of deep pink color. In the fall and winter, the tree really stands out with bright red stems showcasing the unique foliage, which will eventually yellow and drop off. Dappled Japanese willow tree blooms with yellow catkins in the early spring. Depending upon which rootstock you purchase, flamingo willows (Salix integra) may be either a tree or shrub. ‘Standard’ rootstock develops into a tree that will attain heights of about 15 feet tall and as wide. When it is sold as a shrub, it must be pruned to maintain the starburst shape and reign in its growth to between 4 and 6 feet.
Care of Dappled Japanese Willow Tree This non-native deciduous tree is suitable for USDA hardiness zones between 4 and 7. It is a non-invasive plant that is well suited to most gardens due to its relatively manageable size. Flamingo Japanese willow is a rapid grower. The tree can be kept down in size by pruning during the spring months, which does not phase the plant, and in fact, promotes summer leaf color and winter twig color.
Dappled Japanese willow tree can be grown in a range of conditions. It is tolerant of sun to shade lighting exposures, although full sun will allow it to develop a pinker variegation. This willow will also do well in a variety of soils including moist soil, but not standing water. Because this tree does do well in damp soil, be sure to water deeply. This colorful addition to the garden adds year-round interest to the landscape and is virtually pest free.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Willow trees need special pruning that begins while the tree is young. Proper pruning helps establish a graceful growth pattern and prevents damage as the tree grows. Let’s find out how to prune a willow tree.
Willow Tree Pruning Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune. Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree: Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches? Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
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