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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
There is hardly a gardener out there who hasn’t encountered a Japanese beetle. The adult Japanese beetle is a shiny, metallic green with copper-brown wing covers and it’s about 3/8 of an inch in length. However, not all metallic green or copper beetles are Japanese Beetles. To make sure you're dealing with Japanese beetles check their undersides for five small, white tufts under the wing covers and an additional tuft at the end of the abdomen.
An individual Japanese beetle doesn’t do that much damage while feeding on a plant, but they tend to congregate in large numbers and can easily defoliate shrubs and trees. These bugs are hard to get rid of, but there are steps you can take to control them. Keep in mind that the adult Japanese beetles are only around for a little over a month, so don’t automatically reach for harsh chemicals unless they become a serious problem.
Stages of Development Beetles typically go through 4 stages of development. It’s important to know when they are passing through each stage in your climate because control methods are different for each stage. The life stages for the Japanese Beetle are: Egg: Small, oval, white eggs. These are laid in the soil. If moisture is sufficient, they will absorb it and enlarge, becoming rounder as they do. Larvae: This is the white grub stage that is so familiar in lawns. Japanese beetle larvae have a V-shaped series of bristles on their raster (the underside of the tip of the abdomen.) Grubs will grow in length as they feed and mature. Pupae: The pupae stage is where the grub starts to transform into a beetle. Japanese beetle pupae start out cream colored and age to a reddish brown. Adult Beetle: The adult beetles are about 3/8 inch long, and the shell is a shiny, metallic green with copper-brown wing covers. Adults emerge from the ground between May and June, depending on your area. They live for about 30 to 50 days.
Life Cycle of the Japanese Beetle The first beetles to emerge start to look for suitable plants to eat and start feeding immediately. They also send out an odor known as a congregation pheromone to signal later emerging beetles where to go. Mating starts soon after. The females will feed on your plants for a couple of days and then burrow into the soil to lay their eggs. Shortly after, they will return to feeding and mating and start the cycle all over again. By the end of the season, each female Japanese beetle will have laid about 50 eggs.
Eggs develop at different rates in different soil temperatures, developing most rapidly in warm soils of about 80 to 90 degrees F. Once they develop into larvae, they will move up toward the surface of the soil and start feeding on roots and organic matter. This is why grub control is usually applied in late summer to fall. The pesticide needs to be applied while the grubs are feeding on the grass roots. As the soil cools and the grubs mature, they start moving back down deeper into the soil for winter. They’ll stay there until the soil warms in the spring, at which time they burrow back up toward the surface where they’ll pupate and eventually emerge as adults.
What Plants do Japanese Beetles Eat? There’s a wide smorgasbord of plants for Japanese beetles to feast on, over 300 varieties of trees, shrubs and non-woody plants. Some of their favorites include roses, maples, elms, grapes and crab apples. However, they also feed on weeds like poison ivy and bracken. How to Control Adult Japanese Beetles It’s impossible to get rid of Japanese beetles entirely. More will fly in as the current crop are killed. There aren’t many natural controls for adult Japanese beetles. Birds aren’t partial to them, and although some predatory wasps and flies have been imported, their population isn’t large enough yet to control the Japanese beetle problem.
The most effective natural control is to go into your garden with a jar of soapy water and knock the beetles into it. Japanese beetles feed in groups, starting at the top of plants, so it’s pretty easy to fill a jar with them. Insecticidal soap will kill adult Japanese beetles only if it is sprayed directly on the beetle. It does not have any residual effect, meaning that beetles that aren’t sprayed directly won’t be harmed.
A word of caution about the pheromone beetle traps. They will attract beetles; you’ll probably wind up with more beetles coming into your yard than you would have without the trap. The original intention of the traps was to track when and how many Japanese beetles were in the area, not as a means of eradication. Finally, if you have repeated intense infestations, you should check your soil in late summer to see if you have a large grub population. Lift a 1 square foot section of turf. If there are more than a dozen grubs in this small area, consider treating your lawn with some type of grub control. However, not every garden that has a Japanese beetle problem is associated with a lawn full of grubs. The beetles can hatch in your neighbor's lawn and find your tasty garden with very little effort.
More Toxic Controls (to Be Used With Caution) There are several insecticides labeled for use on adult Japanese beetles. These sprays will kill on contact and also have some residual effect. Keep in mind that these sprays will kill more than just the Japanese beetles, so use them only for extreme infestations. And again, Japanese beetles are only a pest for a little over a month, so don’t overreact. Always read and follow label directions when using any pesticide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you suspect a lace bug problem in your flower garden, get out your magnifying lens, because these garden pests are only about 1/8 of an inch long. Under magnification, you can see where these bugs got their name: their transparent wings form a lacy shield over their square shaped bodies.
Identify Lace Bug Damage In the flower garden, the most likely victims of lace bugs are azalea bushes. Lace bugs especially seek out azaleas growing in sunny spots. Lace bugs and their larvae feed on azaleas and other flowering plants and shrubs throughout the growing season, using their sharp mouthparts to pierce plant foliage and suck the juices from leaves. If your flowers are infested with lace bugs, you might notice: Yellow stippling on leaves White stippling on leaves Evidence of leaf curl Browning of leaves during active growth Premature leaf drop Lace Bug Life Cycle Like many bugs, lace bugs begin their life cycle as larvae. The female lace bug inserts the eggs into the leaves of host plants, so a food source is available to newly hatched larvae. The larvae are very tiny and difficult to see, but they are usually present and feeding under leaves along with their parents. After about six weeks, the larvae mature into adult lace bugs, which can spawn several more generations of pests that season.
Organic Sprays for Lace Bug Control In spite of their imposing shields, lace bugs are susceptible to most organic sprays. The trick is to apply the sprays thoroughly to the undersides of leaves, where lace bugs feed and reproduce. Use these sprays to kill active lace bug adult and larvae populations: Light horticultural oil Insect soap Neem Spinosad Cultural Control of Lace Bugs As with all plants, those under stress make the tastiest meal for insect pests. Ensure your plants can shrug off minor lace bug attacks by keeping them healthy. You may as well hang up a “dine here” neon sign if you allow your azalea, a woodland shrub, to bake in full sun. Dry soil and an absence of mulch also create conditions that pique the interest of lace bugs. Dappled shade or morning sun, regular irrigation, and a 3-inch layer of organic mulch keep plants vigorous and pest-free.
Beneficial Insects That Kill Lace Bugs Many predators feed on lace bugs, reducing your need to spray insecticides on your flowering plants. Natural lace bug enemies include: Assassin bugs Lacewings Ladybugs Pirate bugs Predatory mites Spiders If you want to provide a beneficial bug-friendly habitat to attract these natural predators, eliminate the use of insecticide sprays. Insecticides not only kill beneficial insects, but they eliminate the food source of beneficial bugs, forcing them to seek greener pastures.
Conventional Pesticides to Control Lace Bugs If lace bug swarms are turning your flowering oasis into a withered graveyard, it might be time to break out some conventional chemical pesticides. A benefit of these broad-spectrum sprays is their residual effect, helping to kill multiple generations of lace bugs. Use any of these sprays to kill lace bugs: Carbaryl, sold under the brand name Sevin Imidacloprid, see below Malathion, marketed by Ortho, Hi-Yield, and Spectracide Pyrethroids, including Bonide Eight Vegetable Fruit, & Flower Spray; Monterey Bug Buster; and Ortho Bug-B-Gon
Use any of these sprays to kill lace bugs: Carbaryl, sold under the brand name Sevin Imidacloprid, see below Malathion, marketed by Ortho, Hi-Yield, and Spectracide Pyrethroids, including Bonide Eight Vegetable Fruit, & Flower Spray; Monterey Bug Buster; and Ortho Bug-B-Gon Of these conventional sprays, only the imidacloprid is systemic, meaning the plant takes up the chemical, making it rain proof. Homeowners can shop for imidacloprid under the brand name Merit or Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
HESE small, soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects cluster densely on tender new growth and the undersides of leaves to suck plant juices. Plants often can withstand some aphid feeding with no adverse effect, but badly infested plants develop distorted growth and leaves may turn yellow or drop off.
Sometimes it takes close inspection to discover an aphid infestation. They blend in so well with foliage that you may not spot them at first glance, even though hundreds are present. Many species of aphids feed on home garden plants; these insects range in color from pale green, pink, or black to red or yellow. Size is typically 1/16″–1/4″. Adult aphids are generally wingless, but winged adults will appear when overcrowded. Immature aphids (nymphs) closely resemble adults.
Both adults and nymphs feed on a wide variety of plants, including most edibles and ornamentals. In small numbers aphids do little damage, but they are able to reproduce rapidly and can quickly become a more serious problem. Also, as they feed, aphids secrete a sweet fluid called honeydew that can attract ants; sooty black fungus may grow on coated leaves. Aphids are common throughout the U.S.
Prevention and control When fertilizing your garden, avoid applying too much nitrogen, which can stimulate plants to grow too rapidly and produce a flush of exactly the kind of tender new growth that aphids love. Attract and release beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, which will be happy to devour a bountiful supply of aphids. Use a spray with neem oil, which is derived from the seed of the neem tree. It controls a wide variety of common garden insect pests such as aphids as well as fungal diseases. Use a strong spray of water from your hose to dislodge aphids from affected plants. This will reduce their numbers dramatically. Recheck the plants a few days later and repeat the treatment if needed. (Keep in mind that water sprays will also kill beneficial insects.)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Although an infestation of armyworm caterpillars can rapidly decimate a commercial field crop, they rarely cause this degree of destruction in home gardens. Armyworms feed at night on plant foliage and grass blades; they hide under foliage and debris during the day. Severe feeding can result in dead areas of lawn and ragged-looking or defoliated crops.
Young armyworms are pale green; older larvae are brownish with stripes along their bodies. Several species attack a variety of garden crops, including corn, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, and peas. Adults are gray-brown moths that migrate northward in the spring to lay eggs on host plants and in lawns. There can be several generations each year; each generation emerging farther north. Late-season generations will also feed on fruit.
In general, armyworms do not survive cold winters, but they can be a year-round pest in warm-winter climates, such as California and Florida. Beet armyworms are a problem in southern states and in the West, where they can be found as far north as Montana.
Prevention and Control Encourage native beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps that prey on caterpillars. Weed out grassy weeds as well as pigweed, plantain, and lamb’s quarters, which are host plants for the beet armyworm.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
When this bacterial disease infects young cabbage-family plants, the leaves turn yellow and plants become stunted and die. In older plants, first signs of infection are usually on the lower leaves, which develop yellow, V-shaped lesions at their edges. The infection gradually spreads toward the center of the leaf, and the veins within this dead tissue turn black. As the disease progresses, the heads of cabbage and cauliflower may rot.
The bacterium is spread by insects and splashing water and on contaminated tools. Warm, humid weather encourages the disease, which occurs in most of North America, but is most common in the East.
Prevention and Control Plant certified disease-free seed and transplants. When possible, choose varieties that are resistant to black rot. If space in your garden allows, follow a three- to four-year crop rotation to avoid planting susceptible crops in the same area. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering to keep foliage dry. Destroy or deeply bury infected plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Symptoms of this fungal disease vary with the crop. Beans develop round, black, sunken spots on the pods and stems; on leaf undersides, veins turn black. When the fungus infects cucumbers and melons, the leaves develop yellow spots that dry up and flake away; spots on watermelon leaves are black. Infected fruits develop sunken areas with dark borders. On tomato plants, ripe fruit develops sunken spots with dark centers.
Anthracnose can also develop in other vegetable crops and in strawberries. Wind and wet weather fosters the spread of infection. Anthracnose overwinters in plant residues in the soil. It is an especially troublesome disease in hot, humid regions.
Prevention and Control Plant resistant varieties such as Calypso cucumber and Charleston Gray watermelon. Different species of fungi cause anthracnose in different crops. Thus, if you had anthracnose on your tomatoes last year, there’s no harm in planting beans in that bed this year. It can be helpful to wait two years before replanting tomatoes in that bed, though. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Avoid disturbing plant foliage when it’s wet. Harvest tomato and pepper fruits promptly and wash and dry them immediately to remove any fungal spores on the fruit surface. Clean up crop debris in fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Water-soaked spots on blossoms or leaves are an early symptom of this fungal disease. A cottony white growth may develop on the spots. White mold attacks many types of edible plants, including beans, peas, potatoes, soybeans, carrots and cabbage. White mold gradually spreads to all above-ground plant parts. Infected tissues wilt, yellow and die. Cool, wet weather favors the development of the disease. The fungus overwinters in the soil.
Prevention and Control Choose disease-resistant varieties when possible. Space plants and rows widely so that plants remain dry as much as possible. Avoid handling plants when wet.
Water early in the day so plants dry before nightfall. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Minimize the use of nitrogen fertilizers. Uproot and destroy diseased plants as soon as you notice them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaves with gray-brown areas surrounded by a dark or yellowish margin are one of the early symptoms of this fungal disease. These discolored areas lack the concentric rings characteristic of early blight, but they may be filled with many small, black spores. Symptoms generally appear on lower leaves first. The fungus can infect a wide variety of plants. In a severe outbreak, septoria leaf spot fungi may also attack seedlings.
The disease is most problematic in cool, wet weather. The fungus overwinters on plant debris in the soil and on weeds such as jimsonweed, horsenettle and nightshade.
Prevention and Control Plant disease-free seed. Rotate crops to avoid growing susceptible plants in the same area year after year. Pick off and destroy any infected leaves. Mulch around the plants to reduce soil splashing, which can spread the disease. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. In the fall, remove any diseased plant material and destroy it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
A powdery white growth on leaves is the first evidence of this fungal disease, which affects beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, lettuce, peas and many other kinds of plants. The fungus can spread to flowers and fruit. New growth and succulent plant tissues are particularly vulnerable to infection. Infected areas eventually turn yellow and dry up; severe infection can weaken or even kill entire plants. Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew does not require wet foliage for infection to occur, although it does require high humidity. It can spread quickly in warm, dry climates. The fungus overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention and Control Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties, such as Super Sugar Snap pea. Water plants as needed to prevent moisture stress. Keep plants well spaced and weeded to optimize air flow around the leaves. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially late in the growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Dummer. ゛☀
Early symptoms of late blight infection include irregular olive or gray water-soaked lesions on the leaves and stems of tomatoes and potatoes. Both crops are vulnerable to this fungal disease at every stage of their growth cycle. A mildew-like white mold may also develop on or near these lesions. The disease spreads rapidly and can kill crops within a week of infection. (Late blight fungus, Phytophthora infestans, was the cause of the potato famine in Ireland in the 1850s.)
Unlike early blight, late blight does not cause the plant’s leaves to drop off; leaves usually remain attached even after they’ve turned brown and dried up. On tomato plants, infected fruits develop large sunken areas. These may not appear until after harvest. On potato plants, infection of leaves doesn't necessarily mean that tubers will be diseased. Tubers become infected by late blight when fungal spores wash down through the soil or tubers come in contact with foliage at harvest.
To prevent this from happening, remove and destroy all potato foliage and wait a week before harvesting to allow the tuber skins to cure. Monitor potatoes in storage for dry brownish rotted areas; disease symptoms may not appear until after harvest.
Wet weather with cool nights and warm days favors the spread of late blight. In warm parts of the United States, the pathogen can overwinter in soil and plant debris. In cold-winter areas, it survives only in potato tubers left in the soil, though the fungal spores move easily and quickly on the wind, spreading northward each growing season.
Prevention and Control As a preventive measure, use Actinovate®, an organic fungicide. Add a copper-based product, such as our ready-to-spray Copper Fungicide, when late blight is present. Buy certified disease-free seed and transplants. Seek out late blight-resistant varieties of tomatoes and potatoes. Keep plant foliage as dry as possible; use drip irrigation or soaker hoses rather than overhead watering. Space plants generously to ensure good air circulation. Uproot and destroy any volunteer tomato or potato plants that sprout in your garden. Plants that become infected with late blight can rarely be saved. As the disease advances, the number of fungal spores produced multiplies rapidly. Remove infected plants from your garden as soon as possible. Bury deeply in the soil or put them in a plastic bag for disposal. Be thorough when harvesting potatoes. Destroy any infected tubers that you find.
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