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Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Miss Chen
Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea variation gemmifera) are hardy biennial plants that typically are grown as annuals and do well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. Usually reaching 2 to 3 feet tall, the cool-weather plants thrive in air temperatures ranging from 45 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand frost, which reportedly makes the flavor of their vegetable portions -- sprouts -- even sweeter. The sprouts, which resemble tiny cabbages, usually take 80 to 100 days to mature. Harvest them when they are about 1 inch in diameter. Growing the Plants from Seeds
Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks. Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area
Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area. Planting Procedure
Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool. Caring for the Plants
Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil. Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests
Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Miss Chen
Historically, potatoes have only been grown on farms and in vegetable gardens with lots of space. However, even those people in the smallest of urban lots can grow healthy and tasty potatoes with the garbage bag method.
Step 1 Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours. Step 2 Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage. Step 3 Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly. Step 4 Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5 Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Miss Chen
If you have an established asparagus bed that's performing poorly due to overcrowding and you're looking for an intensive workout, look no further than dividing and transplanting the clumps. About the only thing that makes this job pleasant is that it's done during the cooler weather of fall, winter, or early spring, providing that the ground isn't frozen. Although the project involves preparing a site -- and sweating -- the end reward is a bountiful harvest of the long, green spears for years to come.
When to Divide and Transplant Native to the Mediterranean and a herbaceous perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) plants can produce their edible spears for up to 50 years if properly maintained. Over time, the clumps grow so thick that production decreases or stops, and the plants require thinning and transplanting. Established plants grow into clumps approximately 2 1/2 feet wide, so dividing them produces quite a few new transplants. Expect the loss of some crowns, though, due to unavoidable digging damage. For the best transplant success, wait for the plants to go dormant and naturally turn brown and die back before tackling the job. Asparagus that's divided and transplanted in fall and winter will give you an earlier harvest than plants transplanted in spring. Conquer and Divide The size of the mature clump and the soil it's growing in are the deciding factors in how difficult the dividing and transplanting job will be. Sandy soil is not as compacted as heavier soils like clay, so digging out the clump isn't as strenuous. Regardless of soil type, expect a mass of tangled roots and a bit more difficulty dividing larger, more established asparagus clumps. Using the proper tools and following a few basic steps ensure less damage to the crowns, which resemble small buds and produce the edible spears, and the pencil-sized roots you want to retain. Step 1 Inspect the asparagus clump before digging to locate the crowns in the mass of dead, brown stems and flowers. Knowing approximately where to dig helps you limit damage to the crowns and roots. Step 2 Search for the outer edge of the clump's root system using a garden fork. Poke the fork into the ground approximately 6 to 12 inches out from the mass of dead plant material, working gently around the clump to prevent excessive damage. Once you find the outer edge of the root system, use a shovel to dig all the way around the clump, creating a trench. Dig deeply enough to expose the entire root system, which is probably about the depth of the shovel's blade but could be deeper. Step 3 Continue digging under the clump to release the roots from the planting site. Try to salvage as much of the root system as possible without chopping into it or damaging the crowns. Lift the clump out of the soil using the garden fork. Step 4 If the clump doesn't come out easily using the garden fork, gently pry it out of the ground using a mattock or crowbar. Work the mattock or crowbar under the root system, prying it loose from the soil and avoiding cutting into the main portion of roots or crowns. Lift the clump from the planting site. Step 5 Rinse soil-covered roots using a garden hose. Rinsing with water causes less root damage than shaking the soil off, and you can then inspect the clump to find out where to separate it into multiple crowns. Gently pull the crowns apart, keeping their thick roots attached. You may have to sacrifice smaller crowns for larger ones when dividing a mass of intertwined roots. Planting the Transplants Asparagus is relatively forgiving of soil conditions as long as the soil is well-drained and weed-free and the bed is in a sunny location. Remember that the plants will grow in their new bed for decades, so select a site that's out of the way of foot traffic and other gardening activities. Asparagus prefers a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and will perform poorly if the pH is 6.0 or below. You can test the soil before planting to determine the need for additional phosphorus and potassium and adjust the pH accordingly, or you can till a blend of 10-20-10 fertilizer into the planting site before planting the crowns. Step 1 Evenly distribute 2 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer granules over every 100 square feet of the new bed. Work the fertilizer into the top 6 inches of soil using a shovel or hard rake. Water the fertilizer into the soil. Step 2 Dig a trench that's no more than 6 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide for planting the asparagus crowns. Crowns planted too deeply have reduced yields. Step 3 Evenly distribute 2 pounds of 0-20-0 superphosphate over the bottom of the trench for every 50 feet of row. There's no need to work the product into the soil before planting the crowns, as it won't burn them.
Step 4 Place the asparagus crowns faceup in the trench and gently spread out the roots. Space multiple transplants approximately 18 inches apart in rows that are 5 feet apart. Backfill the trench with soil, covering the crowns with approximately 2 inches. Keep the soil covering the crowns loose and noncompacted to encourage the emergence of spears. When planting is complete, water the bed thoroughly so the roots are saturated. If conditions are dry, add supplemental water approximately once each week.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Miss Chen
Vidalia onions are well known for their culinary uses thanks to their unusual sweetness. This is largely the result of the locale in which they are grown--Vidalia, Georgia--an area without sulfur in the soil, which typically gives onions their pungent flavor and governs their acidity. Technically, according to government legislation, you cannot grow Vidalia onions unless you are living in a certain counties in Georgia. For that same reason, one cannot purchase Vidalia seeds. They don’t really exist. However if you were to grow onions in a low sulfur environment from Granex onion seeds, you would have your own onions completely indistinguishable from the real thing.
Step 1 Begin by preparing your soil in early September. You will need to first neutralize the sulfur in the soil before you plant your seeds in order to get that characteristic sweetness that Vidalia onions are known for. You will need about 30 lbs. of powdered limestone per 100 square feet of soil. Spread the limestone over the soil and then mix it into the ground as deeply and thoroughly as you can with a hoe and shovel (or roto-tiller). Step 2 Water the soil until it’s become a muddy mess and leave it for about a month. Over time the sulfur in the soil will bind with the limestone, preventing the sulfur from being capable of being absorbed by your onions. Step 3 Dig trenches in the soil, about 3 inches deep and spaced 1 foot apart from one another. Into each trench pour granulated super phosphate, also known as banding phosphorous. This will be all the fertilizer your onions will ever need. Studies have shown that seeds that have been fertilized in this way sprout faster and produce larger onions. You should use 1 cup for every 20 feet of trench. Cover the trenches back over when you’re done. Step 4 Plant your seeds in early October, placing each seed ¼ inch deep into the soil following the lines of your buried fertilizer. Place one seed every 6 inches. Water your rows lightly once a day and you should have sprouts within a week.
Step 5 Decrease your watering over the winter as your seedlings will not grow much. If you live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate the onion’s stalks will likely not wither. If they do, do not panic. The seedling is still viable and has already been germinated; it will survive the winter and continue its normal growth with the onset of spring. If you live in climates which drop below 40 degrees F, you may notice buds forming on the sides of the onion sprouts. This is a process called bolting, by which your onion is producing more onion plants. This is a good thing; the downside is that the primary onion will only grow to about half its normal size before it’s ripe for harvesting. So you end up trading size for quantity. Step 6 Watch for small flies buzzing around your onions in great quantities. This is a sign of one of the only pest problems called whitefly, also known as screwfly for the odd patterns they make in the air. The best way to get rid of them and any other possible pests is to spray your onions with a safe pesticide known as Sevin once a month. Remember that even a farm safe pesticide such as Sevin can still have negative effects if ingested, so you always want to wash you onions thoroughly after harvesting. Step 7 Begin harvesting in late summer only when the tops of the onion stalks have withered and fallen off. Simply uproot the onions with your hands, shake the dirt off and wash them well. Cut off the roots and the top inch of each onion. From here you can use them immediately in cooking or store them separately in a cool, dry, lightless environment. If you do this they can last up to 6 months before rotting.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Miss Chen
Broccoli, a biennial member of the cruciferous family of vegetables, along with cabbage and Brussels sprouts, relies on sexual reproduction just like other fruits and vegetables do. Introduction
Broccoli in bloom Parts of a broccoli flower
There are thousands of tiny flowers in a head of broccoli If you look closely at broccoli that's ready to harvest, you will see a tightly packed head with a rough, lumpy surface and thick compact stems--the familiar look of broccoli that is harvested and sold in stores. The lumpy surface contains thousand of immature flower buds. When the broccoli flowers open, they have petals, stamen, stigma, pistle, ovule and pollen. Pollination
Broccoli seeds look like mustard seed when harvested Pollen contains male gametes (sperm), and the ovule contains female gametes (eggs). The two have to be brought together for pollination to take place. Broccoli relies on pollination to reproduce just like other fruits and vegetables do. Pollination takes place when insects or birds attracted by the scent and color of the flowers feed off nectar on the stigma or around the base of the ovule. The insects transfer pollen from the stamens to the stigma, where it fertilizes the female gametes in the ovule. Gestation to harvest
Parts of a flower--broccoli blossoms have them, too As the newly fertilized seeds inside the ovule grow, the ovule lengthens into a pod where the seeds will mature after several weeks. Broccoli plants produce dozens of pods, each with eight to 10 small, hard, dark brown seeds inside. The seeds are about the size and shape of brown mustard seeds and have a pleasant peppery taste.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Miss Chen
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) spears are the new shoots of asparagus plants that grow in spring. Asparagus grows from seed, and plants live 20 to 30 years in good growing conditions. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, asparagus is hardy, and plants grow 3 to 5 feet tall. Young asparagus shoots can sometimes cause skin irritation, and the red berries produced by female asparagus plants are poisonous.
Asparagus Roots Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud. Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved. Asparagus Plants Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop. As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost. Female and Male Asparagus Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings. Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10. Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Miss Chen
Your kitchen trash can may contain a vegetable garden just waiting to happen. The roots, shoots and seeds of many plants can regrow instead of languishing in the garbage. Success will vary because grocery store plants are often grown from sterile hybrids or they are treated to retard growth, but with experimentation you may grow a successful garden for just the cost of time. Plant Choices
Not all scraps are suitable gardening stock. Seeds from summer and winter squashes (Curcubita spp.), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) will often sprout and grow, but the fruits may not be the same quality as the original. You can regrow whole garlic bulbs (Allium sativum), a biennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, from a single leftover clove, for example. Some plants grow back from their roots if you carefully save them. Ginger (Zingiber officinale), which grows in USDA zones 9 through 12, along with green onions (Allium cepa) and the leafy tops of radishes (Raphanus sativus) are some examples. Pick a Spot
The season and your climate help determine whether pots or beds are the better choice. Spring and summer vegetables, like squash and peppers, grow best outdoors in a bed or container garden. Garlic performs best in a bed in almost any climate, while tender ginger requires a pot so you can overwinter it indoors in cool climates. Cool-season vegetables, like radish tops, do well both outdoors or inside. If you plant in containers, use pots with at least one bottom drainage hole. Successful Planting
Preparing to plant is just as important as selecting the right kitchen scraps. Most vegetables need rich, well-draining soil in an area that receives six or more hours of daily sun. When planting seeds, sow larger seeds like beans and squash 1 to 2 inches deep, and smaller seeds, such as peppers, 1/4 inch deep. Leave the top of the root attached to leafy greens, such as radish, and push the cut end of the root into the soil slightly. Garlic cloves are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in late fall. For ginger, cut the root into sections , with each section containing at least one growing node, which resembles a raised bump. Plant those sections. If you plant in pots, fill them with a well-drained, moistened potting soil. Keep Them Growing
Vegetables usually need about 1 inch of water a week. Container plants need watering when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Water these until the excess water drains from the pot's bottom. Although fertilizer helps a plant grow, wait to fertilize until after new growth begins to emerge from the planted scraps, or wait for about four to six weeks if you plant seeds. Each vegetable has its own fertilizer requirements, but a general application of a 24-8-16 soluble fertilizer, diluted at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water and applied at 14-day intervals, is suitable for most container vegetables. For garden beds, sprinkle 4 tablespoons of a slow-release 12-4-8 blend over every 4 square feet of soil six weeks after planting, keeping the fertilizer off the leaves and stems of the plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Miss Chen
Vine-variety cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, require a lot of space to produce a healthy, continuous crop throughout the season. Using tomato cages to train cucumbers for vertical growth gives the plants lots of breathing room, aids in the formation of perfectly straight fruits and helps keep pests and soil-borne diseases at bay. When garden space is at a premium, training cucumbers vertically can also free up a great deal of garden real estate. Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested. Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch. Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages. Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down. Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location. It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Miss Chen
Pumpkins take up a large space in the home garden. To grow them successfully, you need to know how to prepare the soil, when to start the seeds, how far apart to space them and when to harvest the pumpkins.
Step 1 Check the back of the seed packet for the number of days until maturity. If you are growing pumpkins for Halloween, add a week or two and then count backwards to arrive at the best planting date. It will most likely be in late spring or early summer. Pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate frost, but the pumpkins will rot before Halloween if you plant them too soon in a warm climate. Step 2 Prepare the soil for the pumpkin bed in an area that receives sun. Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, dig a hole 2 feet across and 1 foot deep. Fill it with a mix of compost and soil to which you've added a handful of slow-release fertilizer. Form a mound over the hole about 4 inches high in the center. Step 3 Make additional mounds. Space them 10 feet apart. Pumpkins like to sprawl and require plenty of room. Step 4 Sow six seeds in a circle in each mound. Push them about one inch deep into the soil and spaced four to six inches apart. After the seeds sprout, remove all but the strongest two seedlings. If you don't, you'll have all foliage and no pumpkins.
Step 5 Weed the bed regularly. Pumpkins can tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather, but if you have extended periods of heat, water them. As the pumpkins grow, slip a shingle or tile under each one to lift it slightly from the soil. This foils some insects and improves the appearance of the pumpkin on that side. Step 6 Harvest all the pumpkins when they turn orange and before a heavy frost hits. To harvest pumpkins, cut the stem about three inches from the pumpkin. Pumpkins broken from their stems do not keep well.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Miss Chen
Nothing spices up cooking like fresh jalapeno peppers. Buying them at the store can be costly and inconvenient. Since jalapeno pepper plants are fairly easy to grow, why not add a few plants to your kitchen and enjoy fresh peppers year round?
Step 1 Buy healthy looking jalapeno plants at your home and garden store. Look for leaves that are a rich green in color, and that when pinched gently tend to spring back to life. Avoid plants that seem overly dry or that smell moldy. Be prepared to re-pot your plant once you bring it home. Step 2 Line the bottom of the plant pot with small rocks or stones. This provides ample drainage for your jalapeno plant. Too much moisture will cause your plant to rot and won't yield any peppers.
Use good soil in your jalapeno plant. Rich soils are made specifically for plant and flower growth. Nutrients in rich soil fall into two categories; non-mineral nutrients and mineral nutrients. Non-mineral nutrient include hydrogen, carbon and oxygen. Mineral nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, chloride, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Re-pot your jalapeno plant using a dark, nutrient-rich soil. Step 4 Place your jalapeno plant in a window that receives at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight each day. Water your plant two to three times per week. Step 5 Transfer your jalapeno plant into a larger pot when it reaches about one foot in height. Full grown plants may grow up to two feet high, so plan accordingly for that kind of growth. Step 6 Pluck off any dried or dead leaves as needed. Allow the peppers to ripen on the plant for optimal taste.
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