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Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Miss Chen
Fried potatoes are top choices for snacks and meals. A potato is usually fried by cooking potato pieces in hot oil. Potatoes are cut, chopped and fried as hash browns, french fries, steak fries, sliced potatoes and stir-fry cubes. Regional favorites are fried and seasoned with chili, cheese, garlic, rosemary or malt vinegar. The best potato for frying is usually a russet potato, but other potatoes have a place in the fry pan. Types
Russet potatoes are the top potato for french fries due to their high starch content. They hold their shape and make a crispy fry. The oval shape of the russet is good for making long french or steak fries. The famous Idaho potato favored by fast-food restaurants is a Russet Burbank. Other potatoes suited for pan frying include red potatoes, new potatoes and sweet potatoes. Their shapes are too short for traditional long fries but suited to pan fries. Geography
Potatoes are grown worldwide. They originated in the mountains of South America and grow best in a mountain plain. Potatoes do better with cool nights and warm days for the plants to develop starch in the tubers. High moisture content and a sandy loam soil allow the tuber to grow at a steady rate. Potatoes are easy to harvest and clean when the soil is light and does not stick to the mature vegetable. Idaho grows about a third of the potatoes in the United States. Benefits
A basic potato is nutritious. It is high in fiber and potassium. A potato contains vitamin B6, iron and copper. The potato is low in calories and blends well with other foods and spices. The versatile potato is inexpensive and comes in a variety of sizes, colors and textures, and you can store it year-round. Considerations Sort potatoes and remove molding or sprouting potatoes. Store sorted potatoes in a cool, dark and well-ventilated area such as a potato bin or pantry. Refrigerator storage is not recommended as this can cause potato starch to turn into sugar. Remove or quickly use spongy or soft potatoes as they spoil quickly. Discard potatoes with green spots or greenish skin or remove these discolorations before cooking. The green areas may be mildly toxic. Warning
Green spots or green tint on potato skin can indicate chlorophyll or higher amounts of glycoalkaloids. Glycoalkaloids are natural toxic compounds that protect the potato against disease and insects. Potatoes usually contain low amounts of glycoalkaloids such as solanine and chaconine. The levels of glycoalkaloids may increase when the potatoes age, are damaged or exposed to light. In people, high levels of glycoalkaloids can cause headaches, diarrhea and more serious problems. Trim off green areas or peel potatoes to minimize exposure to these potential hazards.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Miss Chen
At the young, green stage, black-eyed peas are removed from their plump pods, cooked and served as a hearty green vegetable side dish. Dry black-eyed peas are a cream-colored bean-like legume with distinctive dark-colored markings. Also known as cowpeas, they are soaked, then cooked for about two hours and served as a main dish, in soups or as a filling cold salad. Whether you have an abundance of fresh green cowpeas from the garden or leftovers from a dinner featuring cooked dry black-eyed peas, preserve them in the freezer for a quick start to a nutritious meal in the future.
Step 1 Pop open the black-eyed pea pods with your fingers and scoop the small green peas out into a colander. Step 2 Rinse the shelled peas under cool running water. Pick out any debris and pod pieces that may have fallen into the peas. Step 3 Fill a large cooking pot two-thirds full of water. Bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Step 4 Dump the black-eyed peas into the boiling water and cook them for two full minutes. Step 5 Pour the cooked peas back into the colander to drain out the hot water.
Step 6 Place the drained black-eyed peas immediately into a large bowl filled with water and ice cubes. Swirl the peas around for a minute or two until they are completely cooled, then pour them into the colander to drain. Step 7 Spoon the cooled peas into pint-sized plastic containers, cover tightly with a lid and place the container into the freezer. If you prefer freezing in plastic bags, use the type specifically designed for use in freezers and press as much air out of the filled bag as possible before sealing. Dried Black-Eyed Peas Step 1 Place 1 or more cups of dry black-eyed peas in a large cooking pot. Cover them with 5 cups of water per cup of peas and put a lid on the pot. Step 2 Set the pot on a burner turned to its highest setting. When the water comes to a boil, allow the peas to cook for two full minutes. Step 3 Remove the pot from the stove and take off the lid. Let the peas sit undisturbed for at least two hours, then pour them into a colander to strain away the water. Step 4 Dump the drained black-eyed peas back into the water. Pour the same amount of water over the peas that you used when you originally soaked them. If you started with 1 cup of dried peas, for example, add 5 cups of water, even though the peas have expanded in volume through the soaking process. Step 5 Cover the pot with a lid and bring it to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium, or lower if necessary, to keep the liquid at a lightly bubbling simmer. Cook the peas for two hours or until they are tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. Step 6 Pour the cooked peas into a colander and run cold water over them for three to four minutes to start the cooling process. Let the colander sit for five to 10 minutes, shaking it several times, to allow excess water to drain completely. Step 7 Turn the black-eyed peas out into one or more large baking pans, spreading the peas out in a layer no deeper than 3 inches to facilitate faster cooling. Cover the pans with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least two hours, or until the peas are completely cooled. Step 8 Package the cooled black-eyed peas in pint- or quart-sized containers, whichever is most convenient for your cooking style. Cover the containers with lids that seal tightly. Use plastic bags specifically designed for freezer use if you want to flatten the filled bags to conserve space in your freezer.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Miss Chen
Nothing says summer quite like zucchini for dinner. Sure, you can buy it all year, but there's something about the quality of a homegrown zucchini grown in your own garden and picked for supper that can't be found in the supermarket winter zucchinis shipped in from warmer areas. It's an easy plant to grow once you know a few of its likes and dislikes.
Step 1 Prepare the site for your zucchini seeds. If it's still dropping into the 40s at night, it's too cold for zucchini. In the garden, work some compost into the soil and mound it into hills about 12 inches high. Tamp it down well so it doesn't wash away in the next rain. Keep the hills about 3 feet apart. Step 2 Start your seeds indoors in a simple potting soil and wait for the soil to warm, or plant the seeds or seedlings into the warm soil outside. Zucchini doesn't respond well to wet leaves or damp soil, so don't water unless the ground has become bone dry. The reason for the raised bed is to keep the moisture away from the leaves, forcing the roots to go deeper for moisture. Step 3 Pack some hay around the seedlings to help keep the leaves dry. The plant will grow very quickly in warm weather and will use the energy collected in the large leaves to produce massive amounts of fruit. Fertilize by adding grass clippings around the base of the plant. Step 4 Watch the plant closely when it starts blossoming. The first few days of blossoms are the male blossoms that don't produce fruit. The female blossoms will follow and will be pollinated by the male blossoms, so don't pick them. Step 5 Pick the zucchini fruit when it's about 8 to 10 inches long for the best flavor and tenderness. Cut it off the vine with a sharp knife, being careful not to pull the vine when lifting the fruit. Step 6 Protect your plant by handpicking any cucumber beetles. They lay their eggs under the leaves and multiply quickly, destroying the plant by sucking the sap from the vines and carrying disease. Step 7 Plant flowers including marigolds, geraniums and dill around your squash plants. They will encourage bees and beneficial wasps to come and will help in the pollination of your zucchini blossoms, as well as killing any aphids that might come along.
Step 8 Spray your zucchini plants once a week with a solution of 1 part milk to 9 parts water. You can use any kind of milk available. This will keep your plants from getting powdery mildew, a serious threat to zucchini plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Miss Chen
According to the Gardener's Supply Company, seedlings become "leggy" when they do not receive enough hours of light or too much nitrogen in the soil. This term describes tall, spindly and unstable stalks and an overall malnourished look. Broccoli is one of many vegetables that exhibits leggy characteristics when it doesn't get enough light, and it is sometimes difficult to revive the plant from this state. If your broccoli seedlings have a long, thin stem or have fallen over, there is a chance of saving them if they have not withered too much, are white in color or have black spots on them.
Step 1 Whether your broccoli sprouts are indoors or in an outside plot, you will need to give them more light if you hope to salvage them. Move indoor seedlings to south-facing windows to give them more hours of sun, or set up a small fluorescent light to help them grow before moving them outdoors. Transplant outdoor broccoli plants to a sunnier location in your garden, taking care not to rip the fragile shoots when uprooting them. Step 2 Amend the soil around your leggy seedlings to reduce the amount of nitrogen, which can cause plants to produce weak sprouts. Feed leggy broccoli with fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen, and water regularly to dissipate the element. Step 3 Broccoli seedlings that are so leggy they have fallen over can be saved by being cut back. Cut the young plant back to its first true leaves, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil, and stake it if necessary.
Step 4 Continue supporting your broccoli seedlings until they are mature and sturdy enough to go without such attentive care. Check their stake holdings every few days to make sure the seedlings are receiving the best system of support, and make sure the soil is moist, but not flooded or over saturated. Young broccoli plants benefit from a nitrogen-based fertilizer, once it has recovered from its "leggy" symptoms, and they require adequate sun and water, especially as the edible flower heads develop.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Miss Chen
Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes.
The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep. Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering. Planting Potatoes To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant.
Varieties and Spacing Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the "Charlotte" (Solanum tuberosum "Charlotte") and the "Lady Christi (Solanum tuberosum "Lady Christl), grow well in the restricted space of a container. But you can grow any size of white, red, yellow or russet potatoes successfully in containers, assuming there is enough space for the potato to mature. Unless you have a very large container, plant no more than three potato plants per container, spacing them evenly apart. The closer your plants are, the smaller your spuds will be.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Miss Chen
We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds. How do they grow such giant pumpkins? Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby.
Prepare the soil: Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it. In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow.
Start the seeds: Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big. Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth.
Transplant: Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination. Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down.
Protect young plants: You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center. Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants.
Pollinate: Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow.
Prune: Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss. Step 7 Select a favorite: The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins. Step 8 Fertilize carefully: In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode.
Support vines: As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily. Step 10 Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Miss Chen
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
Step 1 To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants. Step 2 Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind. Step 3 Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis. Step 4 Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5 Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis. Step 6 Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered. Step 7 For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Miss Chen
Zucchini is a prolific vegetable that grows well in most soil as long as it gets plenty of sunlight. The leaves of the zucchini plant are substantial in size and offer shade for the vegetables beneath. Zucchini vegetables themselves do not require direct sunlight. Direct sunlight on the zucchini vegetable can cause the skin to harden and mature too quickly. Pruning zucchini can be beneficial when garden space is an issue, to promote new growth, and for safety purposes when harvesting zucchini.
Step 1 Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini. Step 2 Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant. Step 3 Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production.
Step 4 Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Miss Chen
Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants.
Step 1 Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes. Step 2 Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees. Step 3 In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three "eyes". Step 4 Plant your potato chunks in hills with two to three pieces per hill. Cluster your potato pieces together, and cover them with 3 to 4 inches of soil. The centers of the hills should be 1 foot apart. As an alternative, you can make a furrow 3 inches deep. Drop your eyes into the furrow 10 to 12 inches apart. Space the rows 24 inches apart.
Step 5 When the potato plant sprouts, begin "hilling" soil or compost around the plant. When the plant reaches 3 to 4 inches high, cover half of the plant with soil. When the plant grows another 3 to 4 inches, cover half of the new growth with soil. Continue to do that until the plant is growing out of a mound of soil 4 to 6 inches high. Hilling the soil prevents tubers from being exposed to the sun. Once tubers are exposed to the sun, they turn green and develop a toxin. Green tubers need to be disposed of. Step 6 Mulch between rows and hills. The mulch reduces weed growth and retains moisture. Step 7 When your red potatoes have developed their first set of true leaves, spray them with a foliar spray made of fish emulsion or seaweed. The foliar spray provides the nutrients your potato plants need to produce tubers and stay healthy through insect attacks and disease. Spray once a week until all the red potato plant flowers are in full bloom. Step 8 When your red potato plants have sprouted, cover them with a floating row cover. The floating row cover allows sunlight and water to reach the potato plants but keeps insect pests from reaching the plants. You may remove the floating row covers when the plants begin to flower. Step 9 Water your plants every other day. The soil should be moist, but you need to avoid leaving standing water. Step 10 Start checking potato growth in late spring. Harvest new potatoes when they are between 1 and 2 inches long by digging gently around the potato plants and using a sharp knife to cut the potatoes cleanly away from the roots. Allow smaller potatoes to continue to grow before harvesting to extend the harvesting season. Step 11 When you have harvested all the tubers on a potato plant, pull the plant up and add it to your compost pile.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Miss Chen
Vining cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are annual plants, and they grow well vertically on a trellis, poles and other upright supports. Growing cucumbers vertically saves space, reduces leaf diseases and pest attack, and provides the heavier harvests than if the plants are grown along the ground. Another benefit of growing cucumbers vertically is that Asian and oriental varieties produce long, straight fruit. Growing Spots Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis. Supports for Cucumbers Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets. Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole. Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket. Water Needs Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers. Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil. Training and Pinching Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine. If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits. Cucumber Varieties Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
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